UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: Turboman on May 29, 2015, 12:35:11 pm
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Had a minor operation on my back this week leaving me with 8 stitches. Consultant suggested no climbing for 4 weeks!
2 days in and I'm going slightly mad.
Any ideas how to minimise loss of strength/fitness whilst unable to pull or hang?
Hand exercisers any use - Captains of crush or elastic things? Electro zappy things machines?
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You could always get a rice bucket and follow The Way of the Iron Fist (http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/way-iron-fist)
I've been doing it sporadically for recovery/antagonistic training. Unfortunately, I haven't been strict enough to notice any direct benefits just yet. But it certainly gets my forearms pumped.
For pinch training you could make one of these (http://i.imgur.com/pX1ywhr.jpg)
Otherwise, it may be a good opportunity to "bomb proof" your shoulders/body, and do lots of antagonistic training to prevent any (possible) future imbalances/injury. (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=21100.0)
This isn't necessarily what you asked for, but it could help past time whilst still being beneficial towards your climbing.
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I suspect you can do a load of careful deadhangs without bursting your stitches.
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That pinch training link has given me some ideas. You could train any grip style using that method. Might lend itself to some sort of repeaters training.
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I suspect you can do a load of careful deadhangs without bursting your stitches.
I'd be super careful with these (maybe OK after a couple of weeks) as when I was trying deadhanging after crocking my back I was amazed at how much you use your core/back even when you're just hanging there...
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Agreed. The thought of deadhanging with stitches in makes me :sick: