UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: shark on July 23, 2017, 10:54:20 pm
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https://www.instagram.com/p/BW51XJBBcvp/
Alex Megos reported that Ned has flashed Nalle's "Trust Issues" at Rocklands commenting "That fella knows how to use this heels and how to lock down to his hips"
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Wow. He's quite good that Ned! :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench:
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Second 8B+ flash after Ondra on Jade???
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Second 8B+ flash after Ondra on Jade???
Woods flashed Entlinge in 2011. Was 8C at the time, but now considered easier.
Ondra flashed Gecko Assis and Jade.
Webb flashed The Globalist.
Still quite a short list!
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Amazing
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Deserved its own thread!
Video?
Interview?
Legendary stuff.
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Sounds like he used his magic heels to good effect. Such a good skill to have, people like Ned and Robins can reduce the brutalness of a move because they can make their heels stick to anything. Ned must be one of the best in the world at it.
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different angle from Shauna showing the magic heel in action:
https://www.facebook.com/shaunacoxsey/photos/a.299482313506600.71154.293931117395053/1352077594913728/?type=3&theater
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Good to see Ned still repping the classic Velcros look there.
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Good to see Ned still repping the classic Velcros look there.
Baggy heels innit ;)
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And Shauna flashing an 8A - Puccio seems to have flashed a couple of 8As now - are they the only ones?
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Shiraishi, surely? She's done 8C, supposedly.
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Shiraishi, surely? She's done 8C, supposedly.
Yep, good point - Swordfish Trombone back in 2015 (https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item/69414/swordfish_trombone_8a_flash_by_ashima)
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And Shauna flashing an 8A - Puccio seems to have flashed a couple of 8As now - are they the only ones?
https://www.instagram.com/p/BW9gu9hgrqq/?taken-by=shaunacoxsey&hl=en
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Second 8B+ flash after Ondra on Jade???
Woods flashed Entlinge in 2011. Was 8C at the time, but now considered easier.
Ondra flashed Gecko Assis and Jade.
Webb flashed The Globalist.
Still quite a short list!
Webb also flashed simple knowing but gave it 8B
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Interview here: https://www.theprojectmagazine.com/features/2017/7/25/ned-feehally-interview
Edit: have now read it, doesn't say much at all about the flash.
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There's an interview up on ukc about the flash but it's also pretty adroit.
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There's not much to say about a flash really
Q: How did it go?
A: Boshed it off
Q: How did you train for this?
A: Keep trying to bosh them off
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"What was going through your mind?"
"Pull hard. No, harder. Good, now keep pulling. Oh, I'm at the top."
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These interview questions do seem really trite. Whenever I've done my hardest flashes it has been specifically because I tried to flash them. I.e I didn't accidentally flash them, I had it in mind that that problem would be flashable and made sure I climbed at my best.
I bet that even if he hadn't planned to try and flash it before setting off on the trip, by the time he was about to pull on he was resolved to have a really all-out go.
I would have liked a more intricate breakdown of the climb. Was it ever touch and go or did he find it totally piss. Most importantly, did he lap it? You've only performed a real flash burn off when you come back down, have a little shake out and run back up it.
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:agree: with Will. I'm sure there's more to be said. Although maybe Ned doesn't feel that strongly about it.
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Some of the questions are a bit answered though aren't they?
I bet that even if he hadn't planned to try and flash it before setting off on the trip, by the time he was about to pull on he was resolved to have a really all-out go.
"When I saw the problem I thought it looked like my sort of bag. It seemed to revolve around flexibility and heel hooking skills, which I tend to get on well with. I really wanted to try it, but the thought of flashing it didn't even cross my mind."
Was it ever touch and go or did he find it totally piss.
"I set off with a general idea of the sequence, and I was lucky to have Dave Graham on hand to shout advice when I started to look lost! He had spent a bit of time on the problem before and knew it inside out. Without his input I'm sure I'd have fluffed it."
Ok sure it's short, but you get the idea.
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I thought it was an alright interview - a load of stuff about beastmakers - training and injury.
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Some of the questions are a bit answered though aren't they?
I bet that even if he hadn't planned to try and flash it before setting off on the trip, by the time he was about to pull on he was resolved to have a really all-out go.
"When I saw the problem I thought it looked like my sort of bag. It seemed to revolve around flexibility and heel hooking skills, which I tend to get on well with. I really wanted to try it, but the thought of flashing it didn't even cross my mind."
I guess I just don't really believe him. If what he says is true then he's completely pissed it. Don't you think that to flash something that close to your limit you have to be trying really hard - i.e. you've decided to have a flash go? You're not just checking out the positions and trying to get a feel for the holds and the moves; you're really trying to do it.
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I'm not sure. MY hardest boulder flash (a lowly 7A+ called harry spotter) I just walked up after seeing folks having goes and did it.
On the other hand, maybe he's reporting how he felt? In other words, maybe he needed to think he wasn't "going for an 8B+ flash" in order not to fluff it? I've certainly done the same on sport redpoints. In fact, my hardest redpoint started getting away from me and in the end I did it while "going to get the clips back"...
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I guess I just don't really believe him.
Well you'll need no more answers from him then.
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Some of the questions are a bit answered though aren't they?
I bet that even if he hadn't planned to try and flash it before setting off on the trip, by the time he was about to pull on he was resolved to have a really all-out go.
"When I saw the problem I thought it looked like my sort of bag. It seemed to revolve around flexibility and heel hooking skills, which I tend to get on well with. I really wanted to try it, but the thought of flashing it didn't even cross my mind."
I guess I just don't really believe him. If what he says is true then he's completely pissed it. Don't you think that to flash something that close to your limit you have to be trying really hard - i.e. you've decided to have a flash go? You're not just checking out the positions and trying to get a feel for the holds and the moves; you're really trying to do it.
No, I don't really think so. On a problem below your limit, you're able to make small errors and still keep fighting. This is why the best performances often look the easiest; on a problem/route at your limit, there's no room for loss of form. If you latch a hold half wrong, then you're off; if you get it right, it can look easy. What matters, is whether you can hold the "form" of the problem. This is why strength conditioning work is so important - and core, to minimise wobbling. When we watch others - "mirroring" - as Fultonious' post above, we're able to internalise the form, but without the effort. You pull on and "piss it" - but with no margin for error. What we often refer to as "effort" is the feeling of getting tired, when we make mistakes - something we can't really afford to do on something at the limit.
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I guess I just don't really believe him.
Well you'll need no more answers from him then.
We need definitive evidence on video of what Ned was thinking.
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That's right, and if it turns out he did really try to flash it should be discounted.
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I just always feel like he's trying to play it cool, which is a bit boring really.
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I guess I just don't really believe him.
Well you'll need no more answers from him then.
We need definitive evidence on video of what Ned was thinking.
I have entered the time tunnel and seen the horrifying future of climbing. Once a person's word was sufficient proof; then unedited, jump cut free videos were required to allay suspicion. In the near future, it will be de rigour for climbers to wear portable PET scanners during ascents, so that we can check that their motives are pure.
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I don't know how to break it to Ned that there's a guy out there with a better idea of how it felt to be Ned flashing an 8b+ than Ned does.
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If anyone wants to interview me about what Ned's thinking about right now then send me a PM.
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I don't know how to break it to Ned that there's a guy out there with a better idea of how it felt to be Ned flashing an 8b+ than Ned does.
I know how you feel.
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Out of interest Dave Graham just posted this:
https://instagram.com/p/BXLquSoj2p-/
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I just always feel like he's trying to play it cool, which is a bit boring really.
Ned clearly has a genuine love for what he does. Quietly does eso and quality new stuff round the Peak. No trumpet blowing. Breath of fresh air compared to a lot of social media hype. Give him a break.
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Making DG look like a punt :thumbsup:
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I just always feel like he's trying to play it cool, which is a bit boring really.
Ned clearly has a genuine love for what he does. Quietly does eso and quality new stuff round the Peak. No trumpet blowing. Breath of fresh air compared to a lot of social media hype. Give him a break.
I almost thought this was so obvious it didn't need saying - but ^^^ all of the above. Give the guy a chance - would you prefer it if he was spraying all over instagram and FB? No I suspect.
Anyway - having read various articles in the Sunday papers about CIA big data pre-crime systems (like minority report but with computers instead of a load of weird psychic dudes floating in gel) - I can see there is an opportunity for the UKB pre-crime unit to be set up. Knowing in advance that you are about to dab on your long worked project - a morning text would tell you to stay in bed. Similarly - as you are about to shout FUCK YEAH - I AM ***insert figure of power here*** having done a problem - just as a group of cub scouts are passing by on an orienteering exercise - a Blackhawk helicopter will swoop and dark clad figures will abseil down and wrap you up in a black Organic bouldering swaddle/restraint and take you away to be processed.
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UKB is turning into a fucking shambles
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sorry guys :)
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sorry guys :)
Well you say that, but I feel that you're just always playing it cool so I'll be needing some more evidence that that's how you feel please.
;)
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More seriously, I have no reason to doubt that Ned is answering honestly and genuinely (because what else would he be doing - he's Ned!) but for me the interview did raise as many questions as it answered. I'd be interested to hear his answer to "really, you just turned up and flashed it?" because that runs so contrary to my own experience of flashing things (that are 10 grades easier) and I can't imagine that flashing 8B+ requires any less determination than I give on my modest efforts. Extended UKB interview, Shark? As Ned is someone who doesn't go for the limelight I think he'd be a really good chap to hear from.
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More seriously, I have no reason to doubt that Ned is answering honestly and genuinely (because what else would he be doing - he's Ned!) but for me the interview did raise as many questions as it answered. I'd be interested to hear his answer to "really, you just turned up and flashed it?" because that runs so contrary to my own experience of flashing things (that are 10 grades easier) and I can't imagine that flashing 8B+ requires any less determination than I give on my modest efforts. Extended UKB interview, Shark? As Ned is someone who doesn't go for the limelight I think he'd be a really good chap to hear from.
Sounds like a Jamcrack episode to me......
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More seriously, I have no reason to doubt that Ned is answering honestly and genuinely (because what else would he be doing - he's Ned!) but for me the interview did raise as many questions as it answered. I'd be interested to hear his answer to "really, you just turned up and flashed it?" because that runs so contrary to my own experience of flashing things (that are 10 grades easier) and I can't imagine that flashing 8B+ requires any less determination than I give on my modest efforts. Extended UKB interview, Shark? As Ned is someone who doesn't go for the limelight I think he'd be a really good chap to hear from.
This. I mean, fucks sake guys, I'm not calling him a liar and saying he needs to repent etc; I do think that, as 36C says, he's either playing it quite cool or he's pissed it. It's a refreshing way to be, what with all the spray that goes on, but it would be nice to hear a little more about exactly how he went about doing this. It should be possible to talk about it without going all DudeBro on us.
To just stroll up and flash something at this level, without actually trying to flash it, just doesn't compute for me. Working a hard boulder problem and flashing a hard boulder problem normally require fundamentally different tactical approaches - in the same way that if you intend to do a sport climb quickly (1st RP or similar), that requires a completely different mindset and approach to flashing it.
At some point before getting to the top, Ned must have decided not to just drop off as soon as he made a mistake (minor or otherwise) in order to refine the beta/body position/way in which he's holding a hold etc and save his effort for a more optimised attempt. If this happened after the crux, then (like I said previously) he's pissed it, because he's nailed the start and crux of an 8B+ first go with minimal prior planning.
Does that make any sense? If I've time later I might try and present that argument in the English language.
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I suspect some of us want to know more about it because we're genuinely excited and interested about such an achievement and the thoughts and feelings and process behind it, and that it's nothing more sinister than that.
Thanks for posting that clip monkoffunk!
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If anyone wants to interview me about what Ned's thinking about right now then send me a PM.
Being Ned Feehally
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Will Hunt: you need to remember it's common practice for a lot of people to always try and flash anything they've not done before. In fact i'd say this is and should be the default way of operating unless you're some tactician who doesn't value the flash. So this bullshit about "how can you flash something without trying to flash it" makes no sense. You turn up, you have your first go from the start, and you either do it or you don't.
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What he said
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Will Hunt: you need to remember it's common practice for a lot of people to always try and flash anything they've not done before. In fact i'd say this is and should be the default way of operating unless you're some tactician who doesn't value the flash.
A certain Ratho loving mid grade sport climber well known in the Scottish circles literally WILL NOT try to flash any route within a full number grade of his redpoint level. First go is generally achieved either on top-rope, or bolt to bolt with a clipstick.
Everyone else I know pretty much has a bash first go. Also, watching the video of DG on it, it's got Ned written all over it, he probably pissed it...
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Will Hunt: you need to remember it's common practice for a lot of people to always try and flash anything they've not done before. In fact i'd say this is and should be the default way of operating unless you're some tactician who doesn't value the flash. So this bullshit about "how can you flash something without trying to flash it" makes no sense. You turn up, you have your first go from the start, and you either do it or you don't.
If you read everything I wrote, you'll see that I do concede that he can flash it without much prior thought, but that this does mean that he's pissed it.
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Keep digging Will... [emoji12]
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Will
It is quite clear that what ever grade you climb or will climb you are always going to be a fucking punter.
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:lol:
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I couldn't agree more.