UKBouldering.com
places to visit => conditions reports (isitgreasy on twitter) => Topic started by: Bonjoy on December 03, 2010, 09:32:32 am
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Obviously you should all go and do something more appropriate with the snow, snowboarding, ice climbing, frost napping etc. But for the obsessed and the one track minded I thought I’d start a list of probs that might be worth a look either now or once things have settled down a bit. I’ve not tried to take into account how easy it would be to get to the crag or how hideously cold it might be.
I’ve gone through my old east peak 7+8 list and picked out the most likely candidates.
Maybe other folk could suggest stuff for other areas.
The first lot are the most reliably snow/melt proof:
Route 66, Hat Trick, Desert Island Disco, Non Stick Vicar, Smears for Ears, Taxi to the Crag – Black Rocks
Hueco Wall probs – Cratcliffe
No Regrets, Growler, The Kid - Robin Hood Stride
Goose Creature (and Canon), Moo Cow, Liquid Cool – Shining Cliff
Most stuff at eatswood, though a few finish holds will be snowy/wet
Perfect Day Direct, Stump Hole Cavern – Gardoms
Desperot – Chatsworth
Block N Tackle Direct, Witness the Gritness –Higgar
Purist Energy, Skinless Wonder Start– Apparent North
Back in the YMCA – Plantation
Walk on By, Sean’s Arete, Ramboid – Curbar
Probs on Froggatt Pinnacle, Slingshot/Chequer’s Groove – Froggatt
Them, Crème de la Crème Direct – Yarncliffe
Leotard Legend – Burb South
Moontan - Rivelin
Thumb Wars - Rivelin
The Stanton Shuffle - Stanton
Scrapheap Challenge - Harthill Quarry (next door to Clifftop Boulders)
Pleasant Street - Cratcliffe (at base of crag under Requiem)
These lot are all good options but you’ll have to take into account stuff like frost/melt on northern aspects, snow on the odd hold, topout might need some brushing off, prob might get wet in heavy melt conditions and the presence of any drifting:
Jerry’s Trav, Babu Yagu, RHS Cave probs – Cratcliffe/RHS
Probs on the Cork Stone – Stanton
Most probs on Clifftop boulder
Finger Bang, River of Life, Gibbon Swing – Turning Stone
Most stuff at Birchen
Double Bum, Plan D, Forward Thinking Sound Engineer – Gardom’s South
Attitude Inspector, The Rib, David trav, Pebble Mill probs – Burb South
Small is Beautiful, Banana Finger block, Remergence area, Striker – Burb N
West Side Story – Burb West
Golden Path, Nightsalt, Help the Young, Careless Torque, Courtesy of Jonboy, Green Room Slap – Stanage
Curvaceous, Blunted, Sweet Release – Wharncliffe
Higher Ground(?), Fact Hunt etc(?), Hot Ziggerty wall – Baslow
Great White, Ben’s Wall, Baby Belle – Curbar
Rambeau, Downhill Direct, Sole Power – Froggatt
Most stuff at Millstone
David, Conan – Mother Cap
Green Flag – Carl Wark
Glom Onto, Chimp B, Iain's Dyno, Cheeks N Beaks, Nik's Wall, Sparks - Rivelin
Kappix - Harthill Quarry
Edit: Have modified to include/exclude a few bits mentioned in thread below
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Would Clifftop be a good spot after a brush of the top Jon?
Also in that area - The Stanton shuffle is reliable bar the starting grips.
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Aye, Clifftop should be fine bar the topout.
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Happy Campus at Rivelin takes some drainage. Went up there last winter and it was wet, though Cheeks n Beaks to the right was probably doable.
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What's it like to get around in the Peak at the moment?
I was supposed to be venturing down from Glasgow this weekend until we got all this snow, do you think I would get much climbing done or would it be a waste of Diesel?
Not climbed outside in ages! Arghhh! :furious:
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Go Snowballing in Northumberland. Most crags are only a short walk from the A1 :)
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I had ruled the County out because I know how bad it has been there, do you think it would be worth trying?, what crags do you think would be worth giving a shot?
Cheers
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I've not been out to the Peak, but I would have thought that the main roads are OK, so venues like Froggatt/Gardoms/Rivelin should be a decent bet. Don't know about Ringinglow though. Depends what vehicle you have. My mate's got a Fiat Panda and it's like being in a 4x4. Amazing.
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I had ruled the County out because I know how bad it has been there, do you think it would be worth trying?, what crags do you think would be worth giving a shot?
Cheers
Not sure TBH. Would have thought the road from Belford to Wooler is a pretty major one, so they should have kept that reasonably clear so you could access Bowden and Walk to BB. Parking on the verge may be challenging though. A shovel would be a good idea to clear parking places if nothing else. Some local knowledge might be useful, try posting a seperate thread.
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Happy Campus at Rivelin takes some drainage. Went up there last winter and it was wet, though Cheeks n Beaks to the right was probably doable.
Was going to say exactly the same thing. HC is right on the drainage line.
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Yorkshire's reliable(ish) problems last year:
Almscliff: The usuals:
Demon Wall Roof problems (as long as the snow isn't melting, otherwise you'll get dripped on)
Crucifix Traverse
Keel (minus top out) Think the haul links were climbable too.
Virgin: Cherry Falls, Cherry Falls RH, Ramp Problem, Gaskins 8A
Black wall problems: Dreamtime, BW Dyno and Blackhead should be OK (Blackhead is really good, but scary, must go back to finish).
Jess's Roof.
Brimham:
Happy Days block, inc. Ian's traverse and the Fonze
Jokers Wall (Obviously)
Caley: I wouldn't bother really, had a look round last year and wasn't enthused. Could probably sort out some stuff with big brushes and enthusiasm!
Earl: Didn't check last year, but looked decidedly luminous from across the valley
Hunter Stones: Went for a look last year and everything was very wet, plus it catches and wind going so was totally freezing!
Whitehouses: As per other thread, if the road is clear should be fine.
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What about the prow thing near matterhorn, chizmata I think? Plus how epic are the roads up there?
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Stuff on the steep side of the Calf must be a safe bet. Crimpy Roof at Brimham probably ok so long as it's not buried. Probably a few other things at Brimham eg No Red Tape, Happy Daze, stuff on the Niche
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Calf Steep face yep, although obviously it's absolutely baltic up there.
Forgot Crimpy Roof, all probs were totally fine last year, as was the LoBo/5p10p block after some light cleaning.
Right Hand End of No Red Tape was very wet, I metnioned Happy Days ;) Think a lot of the niche stuff was wet.
No Idea about Chiasmate, neither side is a line of drainage, although the ground above it is very slabby so could be wet (I know that's not helpful at all).
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I've not been out to the Peak, but I would have thought that the main roads are OK, so venues like Froggatt/Gardoms/Rivelin should be a decent bet. Don't know about Ringinglow though. Depends what vehicle you have. My mate's got a Fiat Panda and it's like being in a 4x4. Amazing.
Apparently the road from Owler Bar to Baslow is OK although on that bendy bit its only just clear enough for one car. This is from someone at my work who lives in baslow. Eccy road to foxe house at least would probably be fine (maybe see if the 272 is running, that would be a fair indicator), although I've only been as far as Dore Moor.
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Blockbuster at Caley is a good snow one as its always dry and i'd say its a tick if you didn't top out cos top out easy peasy, that pinch feels good when its this cold too.
Pedestal arete probably ok to with i bit of a brush... actually with the amount of snow we,ve had up leeds way ( 10" on wednesday at least ) we'll be diggin the boulders out
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At the moment the problem with Caley is that the lay-bys are buried in snow! Needs someone with a 4x4 and a shovel... I was at Almscliff today, the road up there is no worse than it was last winter (i.e. about an inch of compacted snow but not too icy on the bends) and I saw a gritting truck come round from North Rigton, turn left down towards Huby and then come back past the crag so it's had a bit of grit on it today.
At the Cliff the pocket on the Keel was wet, Demon Wall Roof was dry but snow was melting above it so there were some drips coming down when I left, Underhand was fine (apart from the top-out), the front of the Virgin was dry. I brushed a bit of snow off Streaky's but there was ice on the rock under the snow so it may take a while to dry.
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Off topic a bit here...
My mate's got a Fiat Panda and it's like being in a 4x4. Amazing.
Narrow wheels, great in the snow.
Has he actually got a Fiat Panda 4x4 ?
Awesome vehicle and and très populaire dans Les Alpes in the 90's. I can only imagine what the modern version is like.
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Off topic a bit here...
My mate's got a Fiat Panda and it's like being in a 4x4. Amazing.
Narrow wheels, great in the snow.
Has he actually got a Fiat Panda 4x4 ?
Awesome vehicle and and très populaire dans Les Alpes in the 90's. I can only imagine what the modern version is like.
Good - MrsTT's extended family have a house in N.Lakes 400m elevation, end of a valley - we went there last winter (walked last mile to get in). Neighbour had a new panda 4x4 - loved it.
Skip to 2:30 below to pass over the usual fifth gear dribble,...
Fifth Gear - Land River Range Rover vs. Fiat Panda 4x4 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p_cNLcBkXlg#)
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Just to add to Stubbs' Yorkshire reliables...
Two quality dryballs at the cliff:
Pistol whip and Making shapes.
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Off topic a bit here...
My mate's got a Fiat Panda and it's like being in a 4x4. Amazing.
Narrow wheels, great in the snow.
Has he actually got a Fiat Panda 4x4 ?
Awesome vehicle and and très populaire dans Les Alpes in the 90's. I can only imagine what the modern version is like.
A friend of mine had someone try to hotwire his (non 4x4) Panda in Aix. Really smashed the ignition up.
So he wired the ignition to the heating leads and you had to have that switched on, then turn on the windscreen wipers to start it.
Made it unstealable, no need for a key, and that thing was really handy for bouncing up rough tracks in the Luberon in search of undiscovered rock. Or firewood.
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Mint 400 at Froggatt has a nice snow platform under it. The traverse off to the right at the break is a little bit scary but OK. Yesterday, it was too wet on the ledge above Oedipus/Narcissus to reverse the first pitch of Valkyrie.
Snow is in good condition to shovel at the mo. Loads of snow below Long John's l-hand and Polyp Piece if someone wanted to sort out otherwise tricky landings for when the dripping subsides.
Only other thing dry at Froggatt yesterday was Chequers Groove. Anyone have beta on this?
Any other shovelling/climbing get done Ulysses? ::)?
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Almscliff: The usuals:
Demon Wall Roof problems (as long as the snow isn't melting, otherwise you'll get dripped on)
Crucifix Traverse
Keel (minus top out) Think the haul links were climbable too.
Virgin: Cherry Falls, Cherry Falls RH, Ramp Problem, Gaskins 8A
Black wall problems: Dreamtime, BW Dyno and Blackhead should be OK (Blackhead is really good, but scary, must go back to finish).
Jess's Roof.
Add to that Wall of Horrors problems and that awesome slappy problem on the slope between Wall of Horrors and Grape strain.
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went up to Ramshaw last night and brushed off the Magic Roundabout boulders and Force 9, they should all avoid any run off from melting snow this weekend. Will be trying to flatten off the landing on California Screaming tomorrow so you can avoid sliding down onto the A53.
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Will be trying to flatten off the landing on California Screaming tomorrow so you can avoid sliding down onto the A53.
Great problem that ;D
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Anyone know or like to speculate on whether Little Rascal or Electrical Storm are likely to be doable today?
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Little Rascal - doubtful, Electrical Storm - probably if you clear the top. Leotard legend is likely fine too.
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Be aware of ES being a bit damp near the start. It's fragile if not dry (as was the case the other winter when a bit came off).
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Cheers guys and good knowledge re the start and avoiding it when damp.
I actually stuck with plan A and went to Rivelin to do Sparks which had a bit of snow on the slopey pinch/rib but once brushed off was fine beneath.
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Rivelin Quarries is often a good shout too - Cheeks 'n' Beaks and Nik's Wall being pretty snowproof. The latter unfortunately also being ascent proof.
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How was the rest of Rivelin looking Nai ?
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Where in the peak will be (a) accessible and (b) have climbable rock tomorrow..
Or for that matter is any of the Cheshire Sandstone especially snow resistant...?
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Didn't really look I'm afraid to say, was on a hit and run mission.
Snow lying on holds here and there on the slabs and walls, snow on topouts. I'd imagine Moontan would be ok given general nick but Acid Reign was covered in light stuff, probably brushable if suitably equipped.
Boullder Club very green.
Wouldn't fancy topping out Fump, etc. in the snow.
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Didn't really look I'm afraid to say, was on a hit and run mission.
Snow lying on holds here and there on the slabs and walls, snow on topouts. I'd imagine Moontan would be ok given general nick but Acid Reign was covered in light stuff, probably brushable if suitably equipped.
Boullder Club very green.
Wouldn't fancy topping out Fump, etc. in the snow.
I guess part of the problem is the wind - blown snow that sticks to rock faces, rather than the more gentle falling snow we've had earlier in the week, thats just affected top outs..
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Where in the peak will be (a) accessible and (b) have climbable rock tomorrow..
Or for that matter is any of the Cheshire Sandstone especially snow resistant...?
Largely depends how much snow falls (sorry to state the obvious) but usual guidelines will apply - crag based bouldering that doesn't top-out, accessible from the more major roads. Take your pick from the list above.
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Didn't really look I'm afraid to say, was on a hit and run mission.
Snow lying on holds here and there on the slabs and walls, snow on topouts. I'd imagine Moontan would be ok given general nick but Acid Reign was covered in light stuff, probably brushable if suitably equipped.
Boullder Club very green.
Wouldn't fancy topping out Fump, etc. in the snow.
OK cheers.
Did you do it ?
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Think so, one of the variants at least.
I used the little ear out right like in this video, r-man added it to pb.info as the 7B version so, I assume as he knows his onions, that it's in :shrug:
Rivelin Edge on a rainy day on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/55774033)
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Sorry, I haven't done Sparks - just looked like you climbed it on the left to me.
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yeah, that's sparks. stay left.
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Nice one - there's loads of different ways (well at least 3) to do that problem
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Cheers, good to know it's right, would be a bit daft eliminating that hold not sure why I thought it might be out
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Or for that matter is any of the Cheshire Sandstone especially snow resistant...?
Sadly its been quite damp snow here Tom. And everything was pretty fucking wet before it started snowing. I'd be amazed if much was climbable. Its been an awful sandstone winter so far, lots of crags have been wet for weeks. Pisa Wall eliminates could be worth checking out (aren't they always?), but can't imagine much else is in.
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Thanks Ben, I wondered if the brief dry bit before the snow had helped but not the case :( yes it's a shame the Sandstone winter has been so crap... Oh well, looks like its Hobby moor or Logport wall tomorrow..
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If anyone is looking for a dry 7c I reckon House of the Holey on Hueco Wall will probably be fine. The top holds are overhung by another block so you might not even have to brush snow off the topout. Prob worth bringing a hand brush though (dustpan type brushes are good for snow clearance).
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Or for that matter is any of the Cheshire Sandstone especially snow resistant...?
Sadly its been quite damp snow here Tom. And everything was pretty fucking wet before it started snowing. I'd be amazed if much was climbable. Its been an awful sandstone winter so far, lots of crags have been wet for weeks. Pisa Wall eliminates could be worth checking out (aren't they always?), but can't imagine much else is in.
Apparently even Pisa Wall was soaked recently - something I have never seen.
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If anybodys interested the Forest Rock cave in Leicestershire is mostly dry on the inside with coffee just down the rd at the corner shop and a massive 30 sec walk in.
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Primo snowballing connies on the way (in case you'd not seen a newspaper or news report in the last few days :D )
http://www.snow-forecast.com/maps/static/uk/next3to6days/snow
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Primo snowballing connies on the way (in case you'd not seen a newspaper or news report in the last few days :D )
http://www.snow-forecast.com/maps/static/uk/next3to6days/snow
Wrong thread shirley ;)?
Don't you want this one (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16505.75.html)
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Cratcliffe and stride stuff mentioned above fine today as long as you don't mind jumping off instead of topping out. Perfect day also fine.
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Anyone know how Mytholm Edge (not for weasels etc) fares in the snow?
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Anyone know how Mytholm Edge (not for weasels etc) fares in the snow?
I don't know for certain but both NFW and Tony's Wall holds should be completely fine, you just won't be able to top either of them out. They're both very steep and the former has capping rock which should keep the snow off.
The road to get up to them though is another issue entirely...
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Anyone know what Bridestones will be like today? And roads around that area?
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Anyone know what Bridestones will be like today? And roads around that area?
Roads will be bad reckon. That valley always gets hit. Plus a lot of stuff is freestanding and flat on top so any melt with the sun will run off on to climb faces.
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Took a gamble. Roads all good. Don't think there has been any new snow in Lancs/West Yorkshire for a few days. Had an ace day. We weren't actually at Bridies, but somewhere esoteric in that area.
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Where did you go, Robin? Hawk Stones?
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Probably not, that's hardly esoteric.