UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Bubba on November 30, 2003, 10:37:55 am
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From 8a.nu (http://8a.nu)
"details are very scetchy, but it seems Tokio Muroi has put up a new "8C or harder" at Ogawayama, Japan. The new problem is a slab (as is his first 8C "Banshousha"). Tokio gave the problem the Noboru-grade which translates to 8C or harder."
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i really wanna see these slabs he's been doing, must be reeealy frictionless/thin to warrant 8C surely
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They must be the living end!
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after watching dave graham do duel? is it on that four from font vid at 8a I don't recon you could get a harder slab problem
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what is the hardest slab in the uk? :?
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good question... hardest slab in the uk... well, the hardest must be something not done, like the "one inch punch" project at the roaches. Other hard slabs must be things like (i'm a bit stuck really) Angels Share, Smoked Salmon, and others that are in my brain but won't come out! I know those two are routes, but angels share is font 7c+ so I've been told.
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work hard?
nah must be a harder one........ surely :?
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isn't TVBATVS like F8b thus probably not monterously hard as far as bouldering goes (he says).
i doubt smoked salmon is all that hard - if you see the vid of scut doing it that is.
did't he have a thread about this before? i think nik jennings said theres some big slab somewhere in lancs with 2 english 7b projects on. and if nik has tried them and they're still projects then they must be damn hard.
i think nik also said there a direct start to dougal at rivelin quarry the's only been repeated with a run-up, and the actual climbing way is uber-nails.
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Very big ain't that hard bouldering wise. If u watch Scut in the vid Smoked salmon looks like e4!
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isn't TVBATVS like F8b thus probably not monterously hard as far as bouldering goes (he says).
i doubt smoked salmon is all that hard - if you see the vid of scut doing it that is.
did't he have a thread about this before? i think nik jennings said theres some big slab somewhere in lancs with 2 english 7b projects on. and if nik has tried them and they're still projects then they must be damn hard.
i think nik also said there a direct start to dougal at rivelin quarry the's only been repeated with a run-up, and the actual climbing way is uber-nails.
Yes, couple of Font 8bish slabs in Lancs. One of them Vickers can only just hold a position in two places, never mind move!
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I am briefly back from the wilderness. I have been led out by all this talk of slabs - Mmmm-mmmmmmmm.
Yup the slabs in lancs are V V V V V Desp. I have done the left hand lin e in two ovewlapping sections once on a rope and I would say E8 7b (E for difficulty not death) or Font 8B-ish. The right hand line looks harder.
Also direct start to Dougal is hard but in the greater scheme of things probably not uber-difficult.
I would add a route/highball at Denham to the list. A very steep slab/wall just right of an E3 diagonal crack to the right of Mohammed the mad blah-de-blah. Very desperate IMHO.
Oh and slabs can get a lot harder than duel.
Right I'm off again now see you all in six months or so.
Ta-raa.....
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so what is the most difficult uk slab. ie not counting the projects.
and how about font whats there top one? not duel anymore right? :?: :?:
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theres a few 8bs in font, maybe even 8b+ i can't remember. they will almost certianly be leDenmat (and son) creations.
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just had a quick look at the bleau info site. looks like the hardest le denmat one is golden feet 8a+
the only other one i could find of that grade or harder was duel direct also 8a+
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i can't produce a specific example, but i am 90% sure i've read about ledenmant doing some 8b slab and his son repeated it, and that his sone then did a harder one.
also there was enigma 8b left of alta until a hold broke.
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lacrima :?: 8b from the low start. that looks to be the one :?
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And 8a.nu are reporting *another* Japanese 8c, this time a 22 move roof problem that is "Harder than Dreamtime" according to Fred Roughling.
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yeah, but that is Fred 'it's 9c+' Rouhling innit :roll: :wink:
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neil travers almost did Enigma second or third go few years ago...said it were not 8b,
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theres a big foothold left that no in (according to bleau.info), was he using that?
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Nope, just all the tiny little holds. Of course, Travers was STRONG, and mega good at using tiny tiny holds. Last time I saw him he was very close to doing Blazing 48's from a sit-start.
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Its funny that Dreamtime is regarded as the 'benchmark' 8c. Julien Nadiras told me it would 'only' get 8b+ in font. He fell off the last moves of DT after 4 days but Chaos 8b+ in font took him 25 or something.
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It's also a bit odd how many repeats it's had for supposedly one of the hardest problems in the world, I wonder why noone has had the guts to downgrade it. Saying that it does seem to be people who have "almost" done problems who are the first to say they're soft.
I think we all know there's a bit difference between almost doing a problem and actually succeeding.
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Just to bring things back to the question of hard UK boulder problem slabs isn't Monobloc a slab? And isn't it supposed to be hideous? May be a contender for hardest UK slab (dunno though as I have never seen it, only heard the reputation...)
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Just to bring things back to the question of hard UK boulder problem slabs isn't Monobloc a slab? And isn't it supposed to be hideous? May be a contender for hardest UK slab (dunno though as I have never seen it, only heard the reputation...)
Only 7c though innit?
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It's also a bit odd how many repeats it's had for supposedly one of the hardest problems in the world, I wonder why noone has had the guts to downgrade it.
Probably cuz they'd not have done an 8c then - if it were me i'd take the tick and run.
Monobloc is V10 innit - surely we got harder than that?
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Dunno the grade of monobloc - only the reputation which seems to be that it is nails.
V10 is still pretty hard. I'm having trouble thinking of a slab that is harder than that. I think the slab at denham is V10/11 (but that is probably a slabby wall rather than a true slab) Topo here as my description was pants:-
http://www.nwbouldering.co.uk/Topos/topopage1.pdf
Other than that I'm having trouble thinking of a slab harder than V10 in the UK, or am I just being thick?
Any suggestions?
(NOTE Work hard and play hard are not slabs)
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what about no-pebble wall at caley? V10? or Terry?
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also what about the direct start to downhill racer?
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Sorry I'm a bit thick when it comes to yorkshire bouldering. What is Terry?
Hope to improve my Yorkshire knowledge now that I live there and all that....
Ooo, just thought of another one is that "Gaz stole my pebble" or summat like that V10 on the small smart wall at Bridestones? And sticking with Bridestones does anyone know if that project slab mentioned in the yorks boouldering guide a couple of buttresses to the right of small smart wall has been done? And the slab left of Jerrys arete? But now I'm getting back on to projects....
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Direct start to downhill racer is not even nearly V10. The hardest slab thing on the Joes slab slab is significantly harder and that is only V9 (I think?).
Keep 'em coming though...
Dave do you still want the video by the way or have you sourced an alternative copy?
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terry is this kind ill high blank slab/wall thing that sort of climbs to meet a rampline, its on the buttress between The Ripper and Syrett's Saunter. I think its V10 or summert like that, but looks ridiculous. jordan did it a few weeks back i think. i'm sure no pebble wall is gin V10 in the YGBG, but hey, so is The Keel......nuff sed. :wink:
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Dave do you still want the video by the way or have you sourced an alternative copy?
if you've still got it, then yeah, fo' sure. I was almost thinking VHS would be obselete before i saw a copy of this!
i belive you know my main man JR (john roberts) so like if you see him before you see me or owt anytime he'll get it to me i'm sure. anyroad with any luck i'll bump into you at a crag sometime, you'd think. cheers
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terry is v10 and not a slab imo, i've seen it done and looks way cool. Can do some of the moves at the start but its quite highball as well
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is that mo overfield prob at millstone bohemium groove a slab?
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Think its pretty much vertical to be honest. maybe slight slab but he definately pulls down!
Dunno why he doesn tuse the arete though... make it about V2...
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Dunno why he doesn tuse the arete though... make it about V2...
the answers in the question....say what you see.....its good but its not right.
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its time for the ready money round
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Piccy of one of the new Japanese 8Cs
(http://www.8a.nu/eng/pics/dai.jpg)
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so, nobodys any the wiser about hard slabs then. there are hard lines that haven't been done everywhere, these don't count. work hard is not in any way a slab, neither is walk on by. le denmats son gave a slab glorious font 8b+, which you'd think he deliberated for a bit b4 coming out with such a grade, this was downgraded by the second ascentioned to 7c+. u will find it hard to get anything harder than golden feet while man still walks on two legs. so these slabs in japan then, yeh right.
hard slabs then -
b9 at burbage south
pressure drop
toyboy, as a boulder prob
things at pex hill
thats all i can think of in the peak. can't comment about anywhere else reliably.
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Got a bit curious about what an 8c slab might look like (not that you'd be able to tell from pics).
Came across this account of the first ascent of Tokio Muroi's first claimed 8c: http://www.bouldering.net/japan/closeup/5dan/5dan.html Definitely a bit of a slab with some arete thrown in.
Looks like there's a vid of it too: http://www.pureweb.jp/~ignius/video/top.htm# Another pic of the 8c on the cover. Fantastic looking piece of rock. Anyone been to Ogawayama?
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Here are the pics themselves...
(http://www.bouldering.net/japan/closeup/5dan/t2.jpg)
(http://www.pureweb.jp/~ignius/video/pics/pkg1.jpg)
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that photo has put my mind at rest anyway. font 8c if the rock is marble! i actually sent my last message half way down the first page. why has it only just come out now blubba, am i being useless again? :? shirleys is font 7c, i think, basic training at hobson moor 7c, strange moves for a slab indeed. can't think of any slab harder than 7c+ either, only one i know at this grade is pressure drop, i know there are others but can't think. do 8a slabs exist in britain? i am intrigued now. just think of it, at least 2 slabs in japan 5 grades harder than the best we have to offer. wot punters we are. :cry:
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i actually sent my last message half way down the first page.
No idea why that's happened, not seen it before but I doubt it's anything you did.
Wouldn't mind a watch of that video - there's another Japanese video of some guy doing lots of hard stuff in the Peak I'd like to see, but never seen it on sale.
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basic training at hobson moor 7c
Thats not in the guide is it?
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think it's in the guide but it goes under the guise of a dirty route at E5 6c. still one of the best laughs i've had. if it's not in guide it's the obvious looking thing to the left of, o my god i've forgot the name o my god, ok to the right of parkers eliminate just round the corner. sorry thats the worst description i've ever given. straight up wall. was there today as well!! only been goin there 8 days a week for past 3 years. shit, imagine the damage i could do to my memory if i took drugs!
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Where is this prob at hobson moor then. Don't know any route names cos I don't climb them. Hobson moors my 'local' so any info on any other problems would be most welcome cos it gets a bit boring doing the same old problems all the time
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Basic Training is a route on the narrow face just round the arete right of the classic crack (Parkers or summat). It is given E5 6c but the boulder problem start is a classic nasty. Trouble is it ain't that hard if you're tall, and is nowhere near font 7c even if you're short.
What is Font 8a in V grades? (I get confused)
Toughies I can think of are (which haven't previously being mentioned):
Rons slab on the pebble - not that bad really
Rons slab left of crescent arete - possible 8a contender?
Ummm thats about it.....
I think the hardest boulder prob slab is either Rons slab or snatch - although snatch could be a wall rather than a slab.
Don't know anything about pressure drop, is the line any good?
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i think its more of a "gap" than a "line".
P.S. the video is excellent, worth the wait - cheers!
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Glad you like it.
Does it have consumed on it?
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err, don't think so, i've only watched as far as the end of the mornal footage, not the parthain/countdown bit, so unless its on the end....
i've some consumed on another vidyo already though i fink. its got some punter doing benign lives at the start.
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err, don't think so, i've only watched as far as the end of the mornal footage, not the parthain/countdown bit, so unless its on the end....
i've some consumed on another vidyo already though i fink. its got some punter doing benign lives at the start.
Aye, the pussy has a tied in spotted!
:roll:
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rons slab next to crescent arete.
what year did he actually do that/ how old is the prob.
please dont tell me he did it in an old pair of beat up fires, with no mat/spotterz :roll:
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rons slab next to crescent arete.
what year did he actually do that/ how old is the prob.
please dont tell me he did it in an old pair of beat up fires, with no mat/spotterz :roll:
Probably!
Its now harder though since the pebble you use to rock over onto has broke off. Still doable though, at around the same grade
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grades, grades, grades. how interesting?
nic - i think basic training is hard for 7c, how do u do it? but then again i find the first move of miles slab hard. my knees r somewhat close to useless when it comes to pushing from below 90 degrees tho.
i have read in the latest ote that ready brek gets 7c+, n i seem 2 remember a big deal on this very forum when james did it, highball v11 was even suggested. i thought E3 6a. we'll get this out of the way now tho, i didn't do it!!!, but this was cos i pulled my back out at work a few days b4. i dropped off from the move popping to the jug, cos i was worried if i missed it i would land quite unlike a cat. for those that don't know, the route/problem is over at this point. for those of u that say i can't grade it bcoz i didn't do the 5a pop with a fucked back u r mistaken.
obviously i want peoples rants on this. this is an example of why i think that u can't grade a problem unless u've done it is absolute rubbish.
as far as i am aware rons slab ,left of crescent makes use of the pockets by stretching rightwards n straight up hasn't been done.
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As far as I know rons slab has never been done from the floor. It has been done from a ledge on the left and the right but never from the floor.
Smoked Salmon it not that hard, I thought E7 7a. There is also my slab at the roaches on the big boulder, the one that was a font 8a+ project, not sure what it is because I am crap at grading although it aint 8a+
Cheers
James
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font 8a is v11. unless ure in japan! :lol:
pressure drop is left of satin. would look a better line with more chalk on, hint.
what is snatch? tho i remember gettin annoyed by brad pitts accent.
luckily i am off today n it is pissin down.
jim ~ i will gladly meet u at hobson moor n give u a tour of some class problems that don't appear on any maps. if it has stopped rainin i will be there from about 2 today. back wall will still be dry!
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Snatch is a highball at Denham quarry, lancs.
E5 7a or V10/11 depending on how many mats you have (or whether or not your wearing baggy trousers and a beanie) I think there is a link to a topo further back in this thread...
James good effort on the slab, like you say I can't imagine it is 8a+ but given my state of senility and lack of understanding of bouldering grades who knows?
As to how I did basic training ummmm, quickly is probably the best description? To be honest I really don't know but I seem to remember doing a mantle-y type move facing leftwards then bringing my left foot up to that slopy break thing. Then I think I was undercutting with my left hand near my left foot and my right hand went up to an impossible small and crap tiny tiny tiny little hold. Stand up on the left foot and then waltz merrily on.... Does that make any sense?
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Snatch is a highball at Denham quarry, lancs.
E5 7a or V10/11 depending on how many mats you have (or whether or not your wearing baggy trousers and a beanie)
:shock: Now that is a Cocktalk comment :shock:
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Damn spotted.
Is this better.
Yo, ma dog Snatch is a bo highball at Denham. Some homies think it's 'E5 7a' but they is all beetches. Bling V10/11 but bring a big pad hommie. Street selecta?!
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Now you're speaking my language.
word.
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nic, that makes sense. tho i do everything to the right. this may be why i find it hard. will c if your way is less stressful to an old mans joints.
where is this slab at the roaches james? is it one inch punch?
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Monoblock at Pex is given V10 and is a slab-very hard it is too. Tiny holds.
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went to pex once. looked at monoblock, looks quality. only had one pad and impatient woman tho.
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Tried to look at monoblock last time I was at pex but couldn't see it :lol:
jim ~ i will gladly meet u at hobson moor n give u a tour of some class problems that don't appear on any maps. if it has stopped rainin i will be there from about 2 today. back wall will still be dry!
Cheers, am on nights and have been asleep today. Send us a pm next time your going down