UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => new problems => Topic started by: TomP on October 20, 2014, 07:53:33 pm
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Sorry to link to the other channel but I can't be arsed to type out another description when it's all there. Details of a near perfect chunk of grit at the Chevin that seems to have gone unnoticed! It's a real beauty but needs a few dry days before a visit...you might have to wait a while judging by this week's downpours. The moss is also growing back fast so some traffic would be good to hold it back for a bit longer before its forgotten again.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=69238 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=69238)
There a topo here:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8BdDYRExtF8dTdtOWpEazQ4UnM/view (https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8BdDYRExtF8dTdtOWpEazQ4UnM/view)
Vids:
Problems 7a+ to around 8a+ (grades are a bit of a guess to be honest)
http://youtu.be/dQ2i779Q5so (http://youtu.be/dQ2i779Q5so)
Problems up to 7a:
http://youtu.be/RvG-xWrGB_A (http://youtu.be/RvG-xWrGB_A)
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Looks like a quality boulder. They all look good but Under a Full Moon in particular looks mega.
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You're right there - it's an unbelievably good problem! Not like any other grit problem I can think of.
Props to 'The Shadow' (aka Matt Wilcox) for doing it years ago, under the cover of darkness! He did a good job keeping it secret for a few years!!
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:jaw:
Fucking incredible Tom. Just wow!
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Only done one of the hard problems- the easiest, the left arete, and it's absolutely amazing. One day I might manage Under A Full Moon. Even pulling on is a great move, the holds are perfect and the whole boulder is just staggering. I remember just standing there for ten minutes marvelling at it the first time I saw it. It's worth reiterating just how hidden in plain sight the boulder is, can't believe it's not been properly developed sooner.
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UAFM. How 7C+are we talking here? First of the grade stuff?
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Looks great Tom!! Am keen for a visit! Boo to the weather!!
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Will, I'd personally add a grade on to all of the problems. But that's just my thoughts on how hard things look, rather than how hard they climb.
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Soft 7c+ I reckon (I was thinking 7c at first, a typical Yorkshire classic grade, but it spat off some very strong folk).
I think Titan and Stasis Interrupted are probably 8a+ but, again, on the soft side...but who knows to be honest! I thought Titan could have been 8b at first but tried it in warm temps. It went without much of a problem when the temps dipped and the rain held off.
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Great looking probs
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Great work all! Look forward to investigating!
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Looks well brown.
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UAFM. How 7C+are we talking here? First of the grade stuff?
I thought it felt pretty tough! But you are proper lanky Will so you will be fine ;)
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Can't believe this has sat unnoticed for so long. Good job Tom. Looks like my new local. I'll confirm the grades at my earliest convenience, but might need more than one session on the 8a+ :ras:
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What is it about people called Will being touchy about their lank?
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What is it about people called Will being touchy about their lank?
Yeah - I'm quite happy being normal sized...
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Looks quality. Good work!
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I went and looked today. It was wet! (http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/10/27/ffb9d06b3e187a1336a0ccbaf735785d.jpg)
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Went at the weekend and if anybody is planning on trying the 7a/+ I'd take some cleaning stuff...As for UAFM, it definitely felt more 7C+ than 7C, but who am I to say I didn't manage it.
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Great photo Dob! Proper bouldering in Yorkshire ;D
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I went and looked today. It was wet!
Bugger. I was there when you posted this :wall:
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Anyone been here recently? Wondering with this forecast how long it will take to dry?http://www.yr.no/place/United_Kingdom/England/Otley/long.html
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Thing is cos it's in the trees I reckon it will need at least a couple of dry days and a wind, neither of which there is or we have! Obvs I don't know, but that's what I would guess. I was going to ask james to go and look at it today, but as it's going to snow again there doesn't seem much point
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James could do with a nice walk..
My thinking was that the sub zero temps may retain some of the seepage though you are right it ain't very windy.
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Haven't been here for a while but I reckon now is the time to have a look, given the cold and dry cons which are set to stay until the weekend at least! Time to capitalise!
Some of it may need a bit of moss clearance too.
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P.S needless to say please don't brush the holds too hard as some areas are a bit soft and stay wet for ages. Enjoy!
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Do people think this boulder will be dry at the moment? More specifically under a full moon.
Cheers
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Can't comment on its current state. But a few of us were there in July and cleaned up any green that had gathered on all the 7's (including UAFM).
I don't know how much traffic it has seen since. According to UKC (which obviously not everyone uses) no one has log anything since.
I think Will Hunt may have been there more recently, I'll drop him a text.
Caley has been in pretty good nick recently, which may (or may not) be a good indicator for the Satellite Boulder. Apologises for the vagueness.
(Edit: spelling)
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Cheers anyway. Any info Will Hunt?
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I haven't been down since July.
It wasn't as slow drying as I thought it might be in the summer months. Seepage and difficulty getting good conditions in the woods was more of a problem than out and out wetness.
I honestly couldn't comment on how quickly it will dry in the winter months. Its quite sheltered, it faces north, it seeps a bit, there's been a lot of moss regrowth... you do the maths!
Having said that, I wouldn't despair entirely. Its been dry and windy today and a similarly dry day is forecast tomorrow. I would say it is definitely worth looking in after a dry and windy day, since the walk in is so short and it is so easy to bail to Caley/Almscliff/Chevin if its crap.
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Did you go dave?
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I didn't have a set day I was going. Just enquiring. I imagine with all the rain yesterday it may take a few days to dry now!
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What's the deal with the full moon Dave?
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What's the deal with the full moon Dave?
I didn't go. I want to try full moon though that thing looks great!
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If you want to go down and have a lantern session one evening, Dave, then give me a shout. I know a few people who are keen to get down there. Once I stop dropping The Gemenid Trail like a twat then I can play on UaFM!
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Yep. I missed the reference. I thought you were after romance or that teen wolf power :slap:
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Yep. I missed the reference. I thought you were after romance or that teen wolf power :slap:
Haha I just re-read it! I reckon wolf power could help though! Hoe about romancing a wolf?
If you want to go down and have a lantern session one evening, Dave, then give me a shout. I know a few people who are keen to get down there. Once I stop dropping The Gemenid Trail like a twat then I can play on UaFM!
Cheers will do. Looks a bit doom and gloom this week!
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Just go for a walk then, you'll be safe if you're careful.