1

news / Re: significant repeats

« Last post by cheque on Today at 01:59:48 pm »

isn't West Side Story traditionally E4 at 7B+?

Pah, luxury! Layby Arete (7B+) is E2 6c.

Walk On By 7C+/ E3  unlike WSS the route and bouldering grade have never been used in the same guide though

2

power club / Re: Power Club 750 22-28 April 2024

« Last post by Duncan Disorderly on Today at 11:43:53 am »

Life getting in the way - Club

M: 4x4 @ AW - F6bish, 3 x 1.2 - 1.5m foot-on campus 20mm edges.
T: Rest
W: Routes @ AW - Mostly F6c's and F7a's, took some falls, finished with a set of 4's on a F6b+...
T: Nowt
F: Nowt
S: Nowt
S: Bouldering @ AW - Had the whole room to myself - did some linked boulders, a fair few pinks (V5-7) and a crimpy yellow (V6-8)... Fun.

3

news / Re: significant repeats

« Last post by jwi on Today at 11:37:53 am »

The young Swizz climber Dylan Chuat repeated Beyond 9a+ at Pic Sant Loup, in his first run of the day, without having any warm-up except some hangs on a portable hangboard. Beyond has a hard low crux as well.

https://www.grimper.com/news-interview-9a-echauffement-methode-dylan-chuat

Interesting tactics.

4

chuffing / Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped

« Last post by stone on Today at 11:17:36 am »

I tried the start of PMD yesterday evening and managed 3 moves. Didn’t quite get into the glued undercuts but there are a lot of foot options and I ran out of shoulders/light.

You been back T_B? I noticed the bottom of the flake seems to have had a bit of stabilisation work (I always used a higher bit). Don’t know when; I ran out of time in Autumn last year and only got back last week.
I don’t find the first few moves the hardest. For me the move up from the undercuts is super powerful but then I don’t do any steep board stuff and it is of that ilk (though, shouldery moves are usually more my style). I think, overall, I still find Caviar harder but YMMV.

From what time of day is it coming into the shade? I suppose it is more East-facing than Caviar but less steep?

5

diet, training and injuries / Re: One for the runners

« Last post by SA Chris on Today at 10:47:20 am »

Anyhoo, managed to PB my 15 miler on Sunday with 2:03:10. 5 min pb from 2018 time, but fell short of 2 hour stretch goal. All hopes faded with brutal headwind for the last 3 miles, and rain in face for the final descent.

Nice one Chris, in what sound like non-ideal conditions

Cheers. not benefitting the wind for the first half (river level and in trees) and getting nailed at the end is brutal. First time out in Saucony Endorphin Edge (carbon plated trail shoe). No idea if it made a difference, but they are great shoes for mixed trails, but i think tread is not really deep enough for really wet muddy conditions. Will see later in the year if things come to fruition....

6

diet, training and injuries / Re: One for the runners

« Last post by Durbs on Today at 10:40:50 am »

Just a heads up lots of Brooks shoes on offer on Sports Pursuit if in need of fresh footwear:

https://www.sportpursuit.com/products?bid=1269&sp_nav=ct-4.pb-1269.

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news / Re: significant repeats

« Last post by SA Chris on Today at 10:40:02 am »

Angus makes it look easier than that.

He's a bit of a monster though.

8

music, art and culture / Re: TV/iplayer must watches

« Last post by mr chaz on Today at 10:27:43 am »

Feel your pain. We started Ripley, then got hooked on BR, finished that and went back to Ripley, by which time my other half had completely checked out and won't engage. I think its brilliant, really enjoyed the pace and unsettling atmosphere

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music, art and culture / Re: TV/iplayer must watches

« Last post by Ged on Today at 10:06:30 am »

Ripley is definitely a lot lighter than Baby Reindeer!

10

chuffing / Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped

« Last post by T_B on Today at 09:54:54 am »

I tried the start of PMD yesterday evening and managed 3 moves. Didn’t quite get into the glued undercuts but there are a lot of foot options and I ran out of shoulders/light.

You been back T_B? I noticed the bottom of the flake seems to have had a bit of stabilisation work (I always used a higher bit). Don’t know when; I ran out of time in Autumn last year and only got back last week.
I don’t find the first few moves the hardest. For me the move up from the undercuts is super powerful but then I don’t do any steep board stuff and it is of that ilk (though, shouldery moves are usually more my style). I think, overall, I still find Caviar harder but YMMV.

No but I was wondering whether it was dry as I’m keen. Been doing more bouldering this winter so hoping to get a bit further. Generally I get out Tuesday evenings so let me know if you fancy a session on it?