UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: Johnny Brown on January 27, 2014, 12:43:36 pm
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From Dense the 'how long to climb 8A thread:
I couldn't think of a single person who weighs 82kgs who has climbed 8A, at that weight. Apart from willenburg, lamprecht but they're massive human beings. I'm sure there are others but very few and far between so for the general populous I refrained from adding
Strikes me as complete bollocks, at 5'8" I'm 76kg and don't get called out for being fat. What if I was tall? But I'll admit Dense 'handicapped only by my normality' Loner may know more than I do.
So Jimmy Webb is obviously neither frail nor a midget. Dolph must be over 80kg? Any more? Or are they all anorexic freaks under there?
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82kg is about 12st 11lb, which isn't especially heavy for a six footer, let alone above six foot. I've certainly been close to that weight when I've done 7c+s and Im shit.
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Polish Dave is 13.5 stone, whatever that is in kilograms. I know this because whenever he rips a hold off a problem (usually some limestone estoterica), he crashes to the ground, curses, then moans sadly "Oh me and my 13 and a half kilograms, breaking the holds again."
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1.) Jimmy Webb (8C)
2.) Jan Hojer (8C)
3.) Klem Loskett (8C)
4.) Fred Nicole?
5.) Alan Cassidy?
6.) Rob Sutton?
7.) Mike Owen?
And Malc obviously!
etc etc etc
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Polish Dave is 13.5 stone, whatever that is in kilograms. I know this because whenever he rips a hold off a problem (usually some limestone estoterica), he crashes to the ground, curses, then moans sadly "Oh me and my 13 and a half kilograms, breaking the holds again."
This sounds like Wallis.
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1.) Jimmy Webb (8C) - 80kgs
2.) Jan Hojer (8C) - 79 kgs
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As an aspiring Font 8A boulderer (done a couple of soft ones), I kind of agree with Dense (obviously there are a couple of exceptions). There really aren't that many 80+Kg folk crushing Font 8A and above I don't reckon, Polish Dave being the obvious one (and my hero ;)). I'm 6'3 and 85Kg.
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I vary from 74 - 77kg but have this week seriously been considering going to weight watchers to get to mid 60s. As a basic experiment, I often stand with one foot on the scale and one off to 'feel' what it's like to be 11 stone. It'd be life changing. Dense instilled the fear of God into me after his 80kg = shit threat.
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<Selective quoting alert>
I vary from 74 - 77kg but have this week seriously been considering going to weight watchers to get to mid 60s.
Dense instilled the fear of God into me after his 80kg = shit threat.
Maybe Dense could start a climbing version of WeightWatchers?
Some combination of Clockwork Orange aversion therapy and a line of low calorie muesli bars?
Dead horses head delivered to the doorstep along with a packet of rice cakes?
;) (in case anyone ever thought I was being serious...)
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Polish Dave is 13.5 stone, whatever that is in kilograms. I know this because whenever he rips a hold off a problem (usually some limestone estoterica), he crashes to the ground, curses, then moans sadly "Oh me and my 13 and a half kilograms, breaking the holds again."
This sounds like Wallis.
The rock has been safe for over a year, but not for much longer.
Weak Sam is well over 82kg and has done various things over 8A. As long as there are no slopers.
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Yes Polish Dave was obvious. Mike is much skinnier than he looks, I'd be shocked if he weighed 82kgs. So we have one British guy so far, honorary, at about 6'2 ish.
Fred or Klem don't/didn't weigh that much. I can't see malc weighing 82 kg either. So I apologise if the obvious list has been shown as bollocks. You're tall Dave you don't weigh 82kgs and don't climb 8a, so I don't mind sitting here being told I'm talking bollocks when my outrageous statement has pulled up one name so far.
Kooks the only other big guy I can think of who climbs 8a but I think he's pretty far off 82kgs as well.
Would be interesting to hear of the bigger British guys, Colorado will have a few. Let's do an r-man type list.
I in no way said over 80kgs was shit! I respect the heavier guys more since I think lifting more weight up a rock is harder than lifting a smaller amount of weight up a rock. Obviously a generalised statement.
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Damage is done Lee, you've terrified us all.
Much as I used to find Power Club a nice to have, the issue of avoiding mass consumption of shite is a bigger one now the hill to 30s has been turned. I genuinely would answer to a daily diet log though 60000 pages of peoples dietary habits would hardly make for compelling reading for anybody other than Richie Crouch who would just see it as a breakfast menu.
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Sorry forgot to mention Blackpool Sam. So far then we have
Polish Dave
Blackpool Sam
Tom (should have a place name first) Briggs
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Sorry forgot to mention Blackpool Sam. So far then we have
Polish Dave
Blackpool Sam
Tom (should have a place name first) Briggs
Dense - according to the poll earlier in the year:
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=22541.0 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=22541.0)
There are 29 people of this parish who have recently climbed 8A or harder..
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Mike Adams is a big lad.
Jason Myers must have been up there when he was climbing. Still around 12 stone and hes a skinny cycling boy now.
Quent must have been.
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Ditto Willackers, surely - but does it count if all your 8as have been dynos?!
;)
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Fred or Klem don't/didn't weigh that much. I can't see malc weighing 82 kg either. So I apologise if the obvious list has been shown as bollocks.
I'm not sure it is:
Klem Loskot - according to this interview / profile he is over 80kg (great article BTW):
http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/klem-loskot-profile (http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/klem-loskot-profile)
Malc is defo over 80kg. Have you seen him recently? - his shoulders must be 40kg alone.
Cassidy - would be very surprised if Alan isn't in the region of 80+ kg. I'm sure there are occasions when he is lighter (e.g. when in peak condition for hard sport / enduro routes) but on average and for bouldering.
Mike Owen can't be lighter than circa 80kg (btw massive respect Mike is a monster and an huge inspiration for older climbers like me).
There must be loads of other too, e.g. Mike Mullins, John Dunne.
I actually think that for some types of problems (e.g. compression probs) being big and all over body strong can be an advantage, but in other (most) cases it's a disadvantage for sure. i.e. problems which require massive amounts of finger strength (unless your Malc).
I certainly don't deny that in general being light is an advantage, although I think less so for bouldering than for sport routes.
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Mat did you read my post on the original thread? I said it's advantageous for the poser of the question to be trying burl as opposed to other types of problem. I didn't say there's no climbers either I said there'd be very few at that weight.
Mike is skinny.
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Dense is hardly saying anything controversial.....people are having trouble finding the outliers to prove a point. Who's going to train to be an outlier? Being skinny helps, what a fucking surprise
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Being strong helps more.
And being good even more.
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82kgs??? Is that about the same as a small car?
Maybe I should hang out with more boulderers, I always think of myself being at the heavy end for sport climber at 72-74kgs
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In general at least, it seems like climbers these days have a healthier relationship with their weight than they used to in the 80's and 90's. That can only be a good thing; especially given the explosion of climbing's popularity / participation numbers over the last 15 years.
* Apologies if this is slightly off topic?
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Malc is defo over 80kg. Have you seen him recently? - his shoulders must be 40kg alone.
http://www.freakclimbing.com/modules.php?name=People&rop=showcontent&pid=18 (http://www.freakclimbing.com/modules.php?name=People&rop=showcontent&pid=18)
might be a bit old but apparently 78 is the max for malc and I am sure he was unbelievably light in his late teens/early 20s (there was a profile in OTE or somewhere where he said his weight which was approaching 9 stone or something stupid but I might be confabulating)
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Here's the article. I found it easily, by googling "malcolm smith broccoli"
http://www.planetfear.com/articles/What_Happened_to_the_Young_Ones_Malcolm_Smith_100.html (http://www.planetfear.com/articles/What_Happened_to_the_Young_Ones_Malcolm_Smith_100.html)
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Me - 77-80kgs, 5"10", 7C+ in a session consistantly, 8A+ max so far.
I was down in Colorado a couple of weeks ago with a bunch of crushers and we got to talking about training and getting better. I asked what they thought I could do to improve, and the agreement was that I needed to do some "body-sculpting". The polite way of saying I'm a bit on the big side. Not technique, not changing my training, nope-just stop being a tubby git, and only in the climbing (or biking) world would I be considered a tubby git. :)
I'm sure I can climb 8B at that weight, but it will take some time to build the strength and the right problem to do so. If I drop 10-15lbs(5-8kgs), I'm sure it will be MUCH easier and take less time.
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You're tall Dave you don't weigh 82kgs and don't climb 8a, so I don't mind sitting here being told I'm talking bollocks when my outrageous statement has pulled up one name so far.
Seems all the "evidence" to support your claim is based around you picking a few names out of a hat then dismissing them based on guesswork of their weight.
No further questions your m'lud.
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http://www.freakclimbing.com/modules.php?name=People&rop=showcontent&pid=18 (http://www.freakclimbing.com/modules.php?name=People&rop=showcontent&pid=18)
might be a bit old but apparently 78 is the max for malc and I am sure he was unbelievably light in his late teens/early 20s (there was a profile in OTE or somewhere where he said his weight which was approaching 9 stone or something stupid but I might be confabulating)
Yeah, that's well out of date now. Malc was around 9 stone when he did Hubble, but he is huge in comparison now. He's been doing a lot of weights for years, it's all muscle but he is a big guy these days, and still brutally strong.
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Here's the article. I found it easily, by googling "malcolm smith broccoli"
http://www.planetfear.com/articles/What_Happened_to_the_Young_Ones_Malcolm_Smith_100.html (http://www.planetfear.com/articles/What_Happened_to_the_Young_Ones_Malcolm_Smith_100.html)
Aye, but that was 11 years ago.
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What Dave said. I think what Dense is saying would carry a lot more weight if we were talking 8B or above (which is the level most of the examples raised are operating at anyway). 8A isn't that hard any more is it?
He has also confirmed I am even better than I thought I was, so a worthwhile thread.
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Malc told me he mainly trains on the weights these days and thus is a bit heavy for hard climbing. I bet he can still climb 8A (and the rest) though!
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:popcorn:
Malc told me he mainly trains on the weights these days and thus is a bit heavy for hard climbing. I bet he can still climb 8A (and the rest) though!
Come on Shark let's have an interview so we can find out exactly how much Malc weighs nowadays.
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What Dave said. I think what Dense is saying would carry a lot more weight if we were talking 8B or above (which is the level most of the examples raised are operating at anyway). 8A isn't that hard any more is it?
He has also confirmed I am even better than I thought I was, so a worthwhile thread.
Yes there can't be many 80kg + climbing 8b.
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I think what Dense is saying would carry a lot more weight if we were talking 8B or above
Excellent.
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this thread has inspired me to climb 8b just to prove JB and Dense wrong!
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this thread has inspired me to climb 8b just to prove JB and Dense wrong!
I'm backing ya :strongbench:
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this thread has inspired me to climb 8b just to prove JB and Dense wrong!
I was thinking the same thing. You, me and Lagers against the doubters! 8A here we come!
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Dave and Johnny, what are you talking about? Let's do the 8b list after the 8a list. Throw some names at it instead of trying to be amusing. I still count 3 who climb 8a now, or recently. The other guys don't weigh 82kgs, with no knowledge of malc. Let's say we say we've reached 10 names, we'll be hard pressed to find another 7 I know but let's say for the sake of argument. That's 10 out of 100,000. That's too big a number for my tiny mind to comprehend so we'll cut it to only a 1000 boulderers in Britain for the exercise.
So 10 out of 1000, pretty small number I'd say. Might go as far as to say 1 in 100. With 7 names missing from the list and ignoring the other 99,000 boulderers. Pretty small minority?
Like Simpson said " I want the names"
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I agree with Dense on this even though I'm on the big end. I'd say for 5'8", 60-65kgs is optimal climbing weight. Add about 2-3kgs per inch. That's skinny, but well within the high end athlete ranges.... Doesn't mean there aren't exceptions, just what most would fit into. Everyone thinks of Fred as a "big" guy, but he's 5'10-5'11ish and I'm pretty sure in his prime weighed about 70kgs.
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Dunning? Steve's really tall by all accounts, so could maybe join the club.
Percy? Weight of dreads replaced by weight of wallet?
Both post on here at times so would be interesting to hear back.
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this thread has inspired me to climb 8b just to prove JB and Dense wrong!
I was thinking the same thing. You, me and Lagers against the doubters! 8A here we come!
I suspect that the only way I'll get to 8A is by starting eating for one and getting below 82kg
mind you, Tomtom is trying for it and I felt like I could climb as hard as him when we were out the other week...
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Dunning? Steve's really tall by all accounts, so could maybe join the club.
I had a couple of conversations with Dunning at the tor last year where weight was mentioned. IIRC he said he was currently 12 1/2 or 13, but when he was doing Hubble and Hooligan he was something obscene like 9 1/2! :o The first part of the conversation made me feel good about myself, needless to say the revelation of his previous weight made me feel like a right fatty!
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mind you, Tomtom is trying for it and I felt like I could climb as hard as him when we were out the other week...
Thats because you have quite some latent sloper pulling strength - very impressive. Either that or you've been training all year in secret and were just hustling us :)
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I agree with Dense on this even though I'm on the big end. I'd say for 5'8", 60-65kgs is optimal climbing weight. Add about 2-3kgs per inch. That's skinny, but well within the high end athlete ranges.... Doesn't mean there aren't exceptions, just what most would fit into. Everyone thinks of Fred as a "big" guy, but he's 5'10-5'11ish and I'm pretty sure in his prime weighed about 70kgs.
The Sharma / Ondra comparison is the one that is often given. Sharma chunky but, unsurprisingly, as the videos show, no love handles on him. Six feet tall and 75kg according to wiki:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chris_Sharma (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chris_Sharma)
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If he's really six foot he's a terrible slouch. Obviously a lot skinnier now than his bouldering days though.
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Ditto Willackers, surely - but does it count if all your 8as have been dynos?!
;)
Cheeky sod. I'm 12st 8lb and I've climbed a few 8A's, some of which have been dynos ;)
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No wonder you get pumped so easily
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If he's really six foot he's a terrible slouch. Obviously a lot skinnier now than his bouldering days though.
Yes, though I presume he could boulder as hard / harder now than back when he was young (8B+ crux on La Dura Dura he says)?
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Crouch had something of a microgut on him recently. Noticeable by his absence. Must be all those curries coming home to roost.
Fat man 2 bangalore attempt (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bn3X3YqCPVs#)
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:D
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Dunning? Steve's really tall by all accounts, so could maybe join the club.
I had a couple of conversations with Dunning at the tor last year where weight was mentioned. IIRC he said he was currently 12 1/2 or 13, but when he was doing Hubble and Hooligan he was something obscene like 9 1/2! :
Doesn't sound like Hubbles ever had a 10 stone+ ascent
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Doesn't sound like Hubbles ever had a 10 stone+ ascent
Raising the point that your geographical location probably has a huge influence on the weight issue (ignoring geographical variation in grading), i.e. if you live in the UK where the majority of climbing is vert or gently overhanging and v crimpy you probably want to be <10 stone, if you live somewhere with steep climbing with bigger holds weight is less of an issue.
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Me - 77-80kgs, 5"10",
I feel cheated and misled
With a user name like Sasquatch I always pictured you as being 6'7" with hands like a bunch of bananas.
If I owned this site I would have you banned for misrepresentation :rtfm:
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Doesn't sound like Hubbles ever had a 10 stone+ ascent
Raising the point that your geographical location probably has a huge influence on the weight issue (ignoring geographical variation in grading), i.e. if you live in the UK where the majority of climbing is vert or gently overhanging and v crimpy you probably want to be <10 stone, if you live somewhere with steep climbing with bigger holds weight is less of an issue.
Not so. Steeper is harder to get weight on your feet. Vert stuff you can do so. Think dawes.
Me - 77-80kgs, 5"10",
I feel cheated and misled
With a user name like Sasquatch I always pictured you as being 6'7" with hands like a bunch of bananas.
When I earned the nickname I was closer to 90kgs, still 5'10, and I hadn't learned the finer point of human grooming such as shampoo and a razor.... :) Was still climbing v7-v8 range though, so not too bad.....
Oh, yeah, my new nickname locally is "The Ancient One" and I'm only 36. Cheeky teenagers. They even input that into the climbing gym database. So now when any employee there looks me up for the waiver or to check me in, "The Ancient One is here" gets loudly announced. At first it was sort of funny, but I think some people are starting to think that's actually my name.
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Think dawes.
I was not aware of dawes climbing font 8a and if I remember that 80's DVD he was in pretty incredible shape when he was in his pomp.
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Me - 77-80kgs, 5"10",
I feel cheated and misled
With a user name like Sasquatch I always pictured you as being 6'7" with hands like a bunch of bananas.
If I owned this site I would have you banned for misrepresentation :rtfm:
Pot...kettle...or do you have a fin?
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Think dawes.
I was not aware of dawes climbing font 8a and if I remember that 80's DVD he was in pretty incredible shape when he was in his pomp.
Fair enough about the 8a side of it. And while he was fit, he still had masive legs :) My weight is/was in the same place, so I relate to his view on alot of that stuff. I was just meaning that bigger is not better on steeper with big holds. In my experience dropping weight has gotten me up far more steep things than vert things....
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Think dawes.
I was not aware of dawes climbing font 8a and if I remember that 80's DVD he was in pretty incredible shape when he was in his pomp.
Fair enough about the 8a side of it. And while he was fit, he still had masive legs :) My weight is/was in the same place, so I relate to his view on alot of that stuff. I was just meaning that bigger is not better on steeper with big holds. In my experience dropping weight has gotten me up far more steep things than vert things....
Yeah, dunno it just seems from travelling around Europe and north america that you see far more heavily built climbers doing well on the steep swiss style stuff and compression climbing than the more vert crimpy stuff in the UK but I accept it is not very scientific although neither is your n=1.
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Out of interest, what are any other 6ft 2ins climbers here clocking in weight wise? How low can I go before organ failure?
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Out of interest, what are any other 6ft 2ins climbers here clocking in weight wise? How low can I go before organ failure?
11st 7lbs or 73KG (got down to 11:3 in October).. and I'm 6'3"..
(was 11.12 after Xmas..)
I think I can be 11st (70kgs) fairly reasonably and still carry a little fat...
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Yeah, dunno it just seems from travelling around Europe and north america that you see far more heavily built climbers doing well on the steep swiss style stuff and compression climbing than the more vert crimpy stuff in the UK but I accept it is not very scientific although neither is your n=1.
Very true. I suppose my experience has been more steep crimpy stuff, so that would fit for both sides. One thing I have noticed a big difference in is weight distribution. Some of these guys that look big have broad shoulders and skinny little chicken legs, so they look much bigger than they actually are. Then you've got the guys with bigger legs who don't look as imposing but still have the same weight.
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Out of interest, what are any other 6ft 2ins climbers here clocking in weight wise? How low can I go before organ failure?
6ft 2 and I diet down to 12.04 for bouldering trips(hit this weight two years running now), with no dieting I hover around 14stone which I am know, 14.7 after this Christmas.
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Out of interest, what are any other 6ft 2ins climbers here clocking in weight wise? How low can I go before organ failure?
87kg :alky:
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I might bob up roaches tomorrow and do the I.R trav a get a heaviest 8a ascent.maybe something as easy as e5 would get me the heaviest ascent title.
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Out of interest, what are any other 6ft 2ins climbers here clocking in weight wise? How low can I go before organ failure?
I'm 6'3"ish (1.905m) and currently weigh 59kg (not deliberate I assure you). I wouldn't recommend it - I'm still shit at climbing and always freezing cold (I also have to climb in a very static, ponderous fashion, otherwise my limbs snap!) When I was at my bouldering peak I weighed around 66-70kg - still shit but a bit cheerier with it (that said, the difference in ability likely had as much to do with being unemployed and going climbing twice as much).
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Jeez! Quite a span there fellows! 59kg moose!?!?!!?! I reckon my shin weighs that! You've certainly set the benchmark to how low one can start to go in this height department. GCW gives you a piggyback to the crag it sounds like...
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Christ! Is that due to illness, stress, or some fell running style madness?
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I usually peak at about 14 stone and a bit at my worst and can manage to get down to 13 stone if I'm very good but struggle to get much below that. Definitely carry it in the gut and love handles if I'm not careful.
Sent from my GT-I8190N using Tapatalk
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I usually peak at about 14 stone
Images of the Elvicution, gorging himself on burgers until the climax.......
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Jeez! Quite a span there fellows! 59kg moose!?!?!!?! I reckon my shin weighs that! You've certainly set the benchmark to how low one can start to go in this height department. GCW gives you a piggyback to the crag it sounds like...
At 59kg I could throw him from Little Man to Demon Wall Roof. Moose, you must have had a tapeworm or something!!
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Out of interest, what are any other 6ft 2ins climbers here clocking in weight wise? How low can I go before organ failure?
I'm 6'3"ish (1.905m) and currently weigh 59kg (not deliberate I assure you). I wouldn't recommend it - I'm still shit at climbing and always freezing cold (I also have to climb in a very static, ponderous fashion, otherwise my limbs snap!) When I was at my bouldering peak I weighed around 66-70kg - still shit but a bit cheerier with it (that said, the difference in ability likely had as much to do with being unemployed and going climbing twice as much).
Bloody hell! That's crazy!
I'm 6ft 1' and at the moment I'm 12st 8lb or 80kg, if I stop climbing for any length of time I usually go up to about 13st 8lb, I really struggle to get down to 12st these days, I really wish I could.
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This thread is fucking killing me. I hit 85kg at Christmas and I'm 5'8.
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I'm 6ft 1' and at the moment I'm 12st 8lb or 80kg, if I stop climbing for any length of time I usually go up to about 13st 8lb, I really struggle to get down to 12st these days, I really wish I could.
:fishing: :2thumbsup:
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I was already pretty slim but had an operation to remove a tennis ball sized growth in my jaw a few years ago. Surgeons had to go in through the floor of my mouth and a slit in my neck - meant I could barely eat for a few weeks or the stitches tore. Then a complication meant I had to have a vent pipe in my neck for a few months and whenever I ate filth would leak out. Kinda ruined my appetite (and the sanitary towel I had to wear on my neck didn't do my stylish looks much good either). Went down to 55kg and never put it all back (stomach shrank - when I eat substantial meals I get terrible indigestion). Actually got back up to 65kg not so long back though - but work stress whittled me away again!
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sounds very rough,feel for you.
can the doctors not give you anything to build you up again?
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It's not really a problem at the moment (Op was a few years ago) - I just feel the cold a bit more than I used to. The last GP I saw recommended rice puddings... not sure if they're on prescription! I could probably get back to size with a regimen of more determined eating but just don't feel that inclined to - inconvenient more than anything. I'm sure I'll eventually bulk up - just be a slow, gradual process.
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Yeah, dunno
... Some of these guys that look big have broad shoulders and skinny little chicken legs, so they look much bigger than they actually are.
You've managed to accidentally just describe Tim there ;)
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Micro gut ?! You cheeky cripple Mills.
I've managed to steadily increase weight from 68 to 73.5kg in the last 1.5 years, with a good 2kg of this being since early Dec when I goosed my knee and just went to doing lots of pull-ups, pressups, weights and using protein shakes on top of my fairly sizeable diet.
was hitting pb's in 1 arm deadhanging and happily campussing the roof routes in the hangar cave last week so I reckon you don't need to be any lower than 74 at 6'2.
Obviously it would be great to know the tipping point of perfect strength/too fat to climb.
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I'm a smidge above 6ft 1in and weigh 83kg. Been down to 78kg. Climbed well on rock recently, not so on plastic so all good there. I maintain my weight with a fairly good diet and about 20 miles running a week. I'd balloon if I didn't.
Chris20 of this parish is about 6ft 6 and weighs about the same as a bag of sugar.
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I've found the diet of champions, courtesy of one of my favorite boxers, Triple-G:
(https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTaF_FtReBaN2AdbirElNtY3R5gwcMFQcdAiJgVzWZvLdb9nmBqAw)
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this thread is making me feel fat. 6 foot and 82kg but not climbing 8 anything anytime soon. right wheres that smilie... ahh here it is: :popcorn:
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This thread is fucking killing me. I hit 85kg at Christmas and I'm 5'8.
but you're still climbing 8B right?
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Out of interest, what are any other 6ft 2ins climbers here clocking in weight wise? How low can I go before organ failure?
I'm 6ft 2 and weigh around 11-11.5 st but as previously described I have tiny chicken legs (used as stability and guidance whilst campusing).
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This thread is fucking killing me. I hit 85kg at Christmas and I'm 5'8.
but you're still climbing 8B right?
We are all are, right?
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I usually peak at about 14 stone
Images of the Elvicution, gorging himself on burgers until the climax.......
It's usually at that point I start doing something about it (last time was 5th Jan). Weighed in this morning at 13st 9 1/2 so it's going in the right direction!
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I was already pretty slim but had an operation to remove a tennis ball sized growth in my jaw a few years ago. Surgeons had to go in through the floor of my mouth and a slit in my neck - meant I could barely eat for a few weeks or the stitches tore.
Moose, I'm really sorry to hear that you had to endure this mate. May the year ahead lead only to very good things for you.
It's been interesting seeing the different height and weight permutations. From microgut Hession through to sprung coil Atkinson and the Aberdeen Annihilator SA Chris, I'd love to see an R-Man style list of UKBers across the different ranges.
Now where are Slackers and R-Man..... :-\ ;)
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I was already pretty slim but had an operation to remove a tennis ball sized growth in my jaw a few years ago. Surgeons had to go in through the floor of my mouth and a slit in my neck - meant I could barely eat for a few weeks or the stitches tore.
Moose, I'm really sorry to hear that you had to endure this mate. May the year ahead lead only to very good things for you.
It's been interesting seeing the different height and weight permutations. From microgut Hession through to sprung coil Atkinson and the Aberdeen Annihilator SA Chris, I'd love to see an R-Man style list of UKBers across the different ranges.
Now where are Slackers and R-Man..... :-\ ;)
I think you've got to add the ape index into the height.. as thats (generally) height for little weight (length of arms vs length of torso etc..)...
For example, I have a +1/+2 ape, whereas others here (not mention any knuckle dragging names) have an ape index of up to +6...
If I'm 73KG and 6'4" with my ape, compared to 80KG with 6'7" with ape it doesnt look so different..
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but as previously described I have tiny chicken legs
I was always told at school I had Wednesday legs, as in "when's day" going snap! Oh schoolboy humour. Used to kick the comedian's arses in high jump though.
In a wetsuit I look like a rubber door wedge.
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Now this is really getting into Slackers ballpond! Come on Tom, we'll submit the data, you heads nail the infographics!
It's all just because I miss the days of endless Powerball lists and league tables really.
OT - can we bring that back please?
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Yeah, dunno
... Some of these guys that look big have broad shoulders and skinny little chicken legs, so they look much bigger than they actually are.
You've managed to accidentally just describe Tim there ;)
Chicken legs are where it is at, although I am not sure I am a waif weight-wise!
Strangely I have found that I need to be lighter for bouldering than route climbing, but it may just be I am closer to my limit on problems than routes.
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My Gran (from Stretford) use to say I had legs like "knots on cotton" :)
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I think you've got to add the ape index into the height.. as thats (generally) height for little weight (length of arms vs length of torso etc..)...
but then doesn't that same weight on the end of a longer lever actually make the body heavier to lift? :worms: :shrug: etc. We really need a minefield smilie
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I'd like some wrist and ankle measurements. My wrists are just over 17cm and my ankles are just over 21cm.
So, even though I'm 75.5kg for 1.85m, you can guess where the weight is.
Has anyone ever climbed 8B with thinner wrists I ask myself ? ;)
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it wouldnt be hard to pull together a database of climbers vital stats. I suspect it would certainly show trends of optimal weights/heights/apes/years climbing and grade. There would always be exceptions, but with enough peoples numbers it would show general figures.
and no, I'm not creating it. :P
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This thread is fucking killing me. I hit 85kg at Christmas and I'm 5'8.
I feel your pain... 88kgs (just) and 5'9...
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but as previously described I have tiny chicken legs
I was always told at school I had Wednesday legs, as in "when's day" going snap! Oh schoolboy humour. Used to kick the comedian's arses in high jump though.
In a wetsuit I look like a rubber door wedge.
Round here they are Lucky legs "lucky they don't snap"
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(http://2nerd.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/Everyday-is-Upper-Body-Day.jpg)
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Some guy on 8a.nu seems to have tried to do some stat thing here on the top 300-odd climbers in their database...
http://www.8a.nu/?IncPage=http%3A//www.8a.nu/forum/ViewForumThread.aspx%3FObjectId%3D33163%26ObjectClass%3DCLS_ForumGeneral%26CountryCode%3DGLOBAL (http://www.8a.nu/?IncPage=http%3A//www.8a.nu/forum/ViewForumThread.aspx%3FObjectId%3D33163%26ObjectClass%3DCLS_ForumGeneral%26CountryCode%3DGLOBAL)
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My personal suggestion for weight is 5' 7.5" and a touch under 14 Stone as for hard bouldering, no idea.
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Are you Weeble?
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Haha, good post lore.
I should resemble this guy after not being able to use my legs for over a month now:
(http://pbs.twimg.com/media/BMglV4FCIAA9a6Q.jpg:large)
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Some guy on 8a.nu seems to have tried to do some stat thing here on the top 300-odd climbers in their database...
http://www.8a.nu/?IncPage=http%3A//www.8a.nu/forum/ViewForumThread.aspx%3FObjectId%3D33163%26ObjectClass%3DCLS_ForumGeneral%26CountryCode%3DGLOBAL (http://www.8a.nu/?IncPage=http%3A//www.8a.nu/forum/ViewForumThread.aspx%3FObjectId%3D33163%26ObjectClass%3DCLS_ForumGeneral%26CountryCode%3DGLOBAL)
that seems to indicate the top climbers average 5foot 7 and weigh 64kgs - at 6 foot and 82kgs I'd better chop my head off.
:o
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If you were after surgical weight loss you could probably get by with only one lung (for short problems) and one kidney... Appendix and pancreas could go too... and a fair length of intestine... Its all quite wet and weighty that stuff, so I recon you could easily lose 5kg or more that way ;)
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I did think when I had my lower leg in plaster and lost 2 kilos in 3 weeks that you could just stick both legs in plaster for a few weeks for that crucial pre-redpoint weight loss (assuming it was not a slab ;-))
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Wonder how much both legs full plaster would get you? You sure as hell wouldn't hassle yourself getting to the fridge for another beer.
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so I reckon you don't need to be any lower than 74 at 6'2.
Obviously it would be great to know the tipping point of perfect strength/too fat to climb.
All this must be dependent on body shape/ type. IIRC James I train with who is around 6'3" or 4" was around 63KGs at lightest.
Yes he looked a bit weird but he has quite a weird body anyway, long narrow torso. His 'normal' pre diet weight is only about 72kg.
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If you were after surgical weight loss you could probably get by with only one lung (for short problems) and one kidney... Appendix and pancreas could go too... and a fair length of intestine... Its all quite wet and weighty that stuff, so I recon you could easily lose 5kg or more that way ;)
Sadly selling / removing a kidney will be pretty fatal for me, I only have one, so I really have no excuses... how much does a kidney weigh ?
:bounce:
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I did think when I had my lower leg in plaster and lost 2 kilos in 3 weeks that you could just stick both legs in plaster for a few weeks for that crucial pre-redpoint weight loss (assuming it was not a slab ;-))
Wonder how much both legs full plaster would get you? You sure as hell wouldn't hassle yourself getting to the fridge for another beer.
just set up a campus circuit to the fridge and back
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I thought I'd seen this sort of topic somewhere before - apparently an old-skool study done on comp climbers (sport). Can be extrapolated accordingly to bouldering I guess?
http://cel.webofknowledge.com/InboundService.do?SID=Z2uHAoHXzXsYQkEQnzL&product=CEL&UT=000207609300004&SrcApp=Highwire&Init=Yes&action=retrieve&Func=Frame&customersID=Highwire&SrcAuth=Highwire&IsProductCode=Yes&mode=FullRecord (http://cel.webofknowledge.com/InboundService.do?SID=Z2uHAoHXzXsYQkEQnzL&product=CEL&UT=000207609300004&SrcApp=Highwire&Init=Yes&action=retrieve&Func=Frame&customersID=Highwire&SrcAuth=Highwire&IsProductCode=Yes&mode=FullRecord)
"The results indicated that elite sport climbers are of small to moderate stature and exhibit very low % fat, moderate grip strength and high SMR when compared with other athletic groups. Values for the height-weight ratio and sum of seven skinfolds in the female finalists were very near those of the male finalists, which may indicate that reduction of body mass and % fat are primary adaptations in these female athletes. Climbing ability was predictable from Grip Strength to Mass Ratio and % fat, though the R2 was low."
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Here's the table of data from that study in case anyone's interested. Good find :2thumbsup:
(http://oi58.tinypic.com/33pbl9k.jpg)
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Any mathematician out there work out how the height-weight ratio is calculated.... tried the obvious 66.6 kg / 1.778 m = 37.45 or what they said ht / wt 177.8 / 66.6 = 2.66 ???
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That's some scary low body fat on the men. My impedance scales are reasonably decent by the admittedly ropey standards of the method (electrodes for both hands and feet etc) and they refuse to go any lower than around 5-5.5% - and that's lardy by the standards of this bunch!
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That's some scary low body fat on the men. My impedance scales are reasonably decent by the admittedly ropey standards of the method (electrodes for both hands and feet etc) and they refuse to go any lower than around 5-5.5% - and that's lardy by the standards of this bunch!
Study is from 1993, which may make a difference in terms of extreme diet tactics being adopted? Not sure these days having so low a body fat is considered healthy/optimal for performance?
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Study is from 1993, which may make a difference in terms of extreme diet tactics being adopted? Not sure these days having so low a body fat is considered healthy/optimal for performance?
Coupled with the fact that consumption of craft bakery produce and pies are de rigeur these days. :-\
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So I mimic'd the guys study from 8a.nu, but used the top 50 boulderers as of today for the last years ranking.
Average Age: 26.2 Std Dev-5.2
Average Height: 176.2 Std Dev-5.7
Average Weight: 66kgs Std Dev-6.3
Average BMI: 21.1 Std Dev-1.5
Average Yrs Climbing: 13.2 Std Dev-3.8
Take what you will from that.
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I've always aspired to being above average - looks like I'm there in every respect
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Hmm no takers on the maths then.
Using the mean figures for the male semi finalists gives them 0.377 kg / cm which gives a vague measure of body composition. Sort of a measure of how dense they are. Using this figure for an 82 kg bloke gives a height of 217 cm ( 7 ft 1 1/2 inches).... which means not very much other than that to have a body composition similar to the semi finalists and be 82 kg you would need to be over 7 ft tall. :whistle: :whistle: Vaguely supports Dense's argument.... or suggests one can be much chunkier and still climb 8A.
However it cheered me up cos at 156cm and 60 kg I am very close to the 0.377 figure so feel less tubby........ but no where near doing 8A. Calculators and scales out to find out how heavy you would need to be to match these ripped heroes from 93... :shrug: :shrug:
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Any mathematician out there work out how the height-weight ratio is calculated.... tried the obvious 66.6 kg / 1.778 m = 37.45 or what they said ht / wt 177.8 / 66.6 = 2.66 ???
I think they might state it somewhere in the study. I can post the article up somewhere tomorrow if people are interested. I've got access to academic journals at work.
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Does anyone know what the ideal weight for bouldering is then? Can't be arsed reading previous posts for myself but surely some sort of conclusion must've been reached.
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Oi rosma you calling me fat!?
I don't boulder hard enough to affect this pole anyway but Malc has defo been known to get above 80 and is still, you know, Malc strong. 8A+ no bother.
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Here's the full article. I'll take it down after a couple of weeks or something, as it's not meant to be "systematically redistributed" :oops:
You can now decode the "ability" stat as well and see how hard they had climbed
Anthropometric profiles of elite male and female competitive sport rock climbers (https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0CP1KvxvBEQRWxQdGlNaEx6Snc/edit?usp=sharing)
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like most sports science articles I am not sure it is worth the time required to read it or the paper it is printed on
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Haha probably not! There is another paper in the same journal about how inaccurate the body fat % estimation method used in that paper is, but the paper looking for an accurate method doesn't really come to any sort of conclusion itself either... :unsure:
There are boatloads of climbing related papers there, but I suspect trawling through them to find anything valuable might take a lot more time than is worthwhile. Must.....resist....time...wasting....
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5'8" and 76kg too >:(
Low weight is definitely crucial for hard bouldering.
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Oi rosma you calling me fat!?
I don't boulder hard enough to affect this pole anyway but Malc has defo been known to get above 80 and is still, you know, Malc strong. 8A+ no bother.
Ha, I was waiting for that!
I thought being mentioned in the same company as Fred Nicole and Jimmy Webb would have cheered you up though ::)
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Any mathematician out there work out how the height-weight ratio is calculated.... tried the obvious 66.6 kg / 1.778 m = 37.45 or what they said ht / wt 177.8 / 66.6 = 2.66 ???
I think they might state it somewhere in the study. I can post the article up somewhere tomorrow if people are interested. I've got access to academic journals at work.
The height-weight ratio (HWR) was calculated as height divided by the cube root of body mass
Haha probably not! There is another paper in the same journal about how inaccurate the body fat % estimation method used in that paper is, but the paper looking for an accurate method doesn't really come to any sort of conclusion itself either... :unsure:
Not necessarily too big a problem if the same method of estimation is applied to everyone as the error is then systematic and what is of interest is the difference between individuals.
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I am flattered, yes. You need to seriously re-estimate my abilities though!
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Not necessarily too big a problem if the same method of estimation is applied to everyone as the error is then systematic and what is of interest is the difference between individuals.
Yeah true, though as that other study found the method generally underestimates body fat %, the overall lowness of their body fat would maybe not be so shocking if a more accurate method had been used (female finalists here are under the % of essential fat).
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I don't boulder hard enough to affect this pole anyway
The OP was just about climbing 8A. Though its always worth pointing out Dave Skoczylas again, ta.
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Bejaysus! Have you all been on "Lead only" diets? Most climbers I meet seem like lightweight folk but this is clearly not the case. I'm 64Kg and about as close to 6 foot as its possible to be without actually hitting the mark. Unbelievably I was accused of being 6' 3" last time I was at Almscliff and I was forced to reference this thread (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=10347.0 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=10347.0)).
I was a little lighter a few years ago at about 61Kg but all this good living has made me pile on the pounds it seems.
So why can't I climb 8A? I've only done The Keel which is, as we all know, only 7B+ (proven by the indisputible fact that it is easier than Underhand). Could it be that being light makes it harder to train and get stronger because you haven't got as much resistance to work against as the lard packing 70-80Kg bunch?
Incidentally, does anybody know whether titanium is denser than bone? I've got a legful and so that could be the source of the extra kilos I seem to have acquired.
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All this weight chat here and on my thread about losing weight was almost starting to get me seriously worried that I was properly a fat bastard... Then I went to the pool and remembered that actually, in the real world....
I'm in pretty fucking good shape!!!
No excuse for not continuing to diet and want to be lighter like, just sayin'...
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All this weight chat here and on my thread about losing weight was almost starting to get me seriously worried that I was properly a fat bastard... Then I went to the pool and remembered that actually, in the real world....
I'm in pretty fucking good shape!!!
No excuse for not continuing to diet and want to be lighter like, just sayin'...
Yeah, but the average person is a pretty poor benchmark for most things IMO.
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We're not in the real world you fat bastard ;)
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LoL :)
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Dense is spot on there, alas. Well apart from the fat bastard bit.
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Here's the full article. I'll take it down after a couple of weeks or something, as it's not meant to be "systematically redistributed" :oops:
You can now decode the "ability" stat as well and see how hard they had climbed
Anthropometric profiles of elite male and female competitive sport rock climbers (https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0CP1KvxvBEQRWxQdGlNaEx6Snc/edit?usp=sharing)
Thanks for the research... It refers to lead climbing competitors and therefore adds to my belief and experience that getting lighter is a good idea if you want to climb harder sport or trad. As far as bouldering is concerned I think you can get away with being much burlier and it probably helps when generating power on steep stuff. However whether 82 kg is too burly remains one of the great mysteries.
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Ha ha, a quality bit of iPhone autocorrect there JB! Well spotted.
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6'2" and currently 102kg so the one saying they feel heavy at 80kg.stop moaning about it ;)
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What did you weigh when you were an OTE cover star though Shaz?
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would have been 84kg,look bloody thin though when i look back now.
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Would anyone on here sacrifice their weight to the Hubble weight of 10stone max to tick the route?
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I think being as light as possible should be one of the last things to worry about when it comes to climbing.
Obviously being really overweight wouldn't help but i'm 66kg, 5ft 10' and weak as piss...
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I think being as light as possible should be one of the last things to worry about when it comes to climbing.
....says the person who is light as fuck :chair:
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I think being as light as possible should be one of the last things to worry about when it comes to climbing.
Obviously being really overweight wouldn't help but i'm 66kg, 5ft 10' and weak as piss...
Reckon I agree with this. Should be:
(1) Get good;
(2) Get strong;
(3) Get light;
(4) CRUSH
Optional (5) Get fat and don't worry about climbing quite so much
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I think being as light as possible should be one of the last things to worry about when it comes to climbing.
....says the person who is light as fuck :chair:
That was my point, i'm light and I don't climb hard!
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Would anyone on here sacrifice their weight to the Hubble weight of 10stone max to tick the route?
Without a doubt, but for me it would only be around 6kg - so it doesn't count!!
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Would anyone on here sacrifice their weight to the Hubble weight of 10stone max to tick the route?
FFS, I'm 10 stone. Why didn't someone point me at Hubble before? Will it be dry tomorrow?
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FFS, I'm 10 stone. Why didn't someone point me at Hubble before? Will it be dry tomorrow?
Yes I think you might have encountered a cow and Friesian situation there
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Would anyone on here sacrifice their weight to the Hubble weight of 10stone max to tick the route?
FFS, I'm 10 stone. Why didn't someone point me at Hubble before? Will it be dry tomorrow?
You need to change your hair first (silly!). Dreds or Shaved.
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Would anyone on here sacrifice their weight to the Hubble weight of 10stone max to tick the route?
Where do I sign?
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Think Liquid Ambar is a 10 stoner too :'(
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Would anyone on here sacrifice their weight to the Hubble weight of 10stone max to tick the route?
FFS, I'm 10 stone. Why didn't someone point me at Hubble before? Will it be dry tomorrow?
You fucking shoe lace! You should be doing laps on it at that weight and with your fingers of steel. :P
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FFS what's a stone? And yes, I'd sacrifice 10 of them to do hubble.
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I think being as light as possible should be one of the last things to worry about when it comes to climbing.
....says the person who is light as fuck :chair:
That was my point, i'm light and I don't climb hard!
You've only been climbing 5 minutes! Patience
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FFS what's a stone? And yes, I'd sacrifice 10 of them to do hubble.
What'd'ya mean? You don't know this by heart.
(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/1e/English_mass_units_graph.svg/400px-English_mass_units_graph.svg.png)
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Now I'm more confused than ever.
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I think being as light as possible should be one of the last things to worry about when it comes to climbing.
....says the person who is light as fuck :chair:
That was my point, i'm light and I don't climb hard!
You've only been climbing 5 minutes! Patience
Haha, you know what I'm like, I always expect more from myself!
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Would anyone on here sacrifice their weight to the Hubble weight of 10stone max to tick the route?
FFS, I'm 10 stone. Why didn't someone point me at Hubble before? Will it be dry tomorrow?
You fucking shoe lace! You should be doing laps on it at that weight and with your fingers of steel. :P
I'm always amazed by how light Will is!
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Are any of better ascents mysteriously only on days when the wind is blowing in the right direction
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