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power club / Re: Power Club 781 25 Nov - 1 Dec 2024

« Last post by nik at work on Today at 11:12:33 am »

M - nothing
T - the works. Had a play on the spray wall in unit E with Sam (mostly watching tbh). Then did Irn-Bru’s.
W - nothing
T - After school dash to Rubicon. Sam on his proj. Latched the first move for a brief moment. Linked second and third move. Did third move easily several times. Very nearly linked third and fourth move. Did fourth move a few times. The he tried some new foot beta for first move which he thinks might work, but was pretty beasted at this point so hard to tell… still making progress every session (think this is maybe 3rd sesh for him?). However I am not making any progress at all, still can’t pull on at any point, never mind try a move. Relegated to spotting and photographs.
F - fly to Isle of Man
S - went to the two walls on the island. Reasonable board sesh at the first wall. Did the comp set at the second wall. Unfortunately Dylan strained his finger half way through the set so we bailed. Did 22 of the 25 problems, realistically probably wouldn’t have done the other three even if we’d stayed a bit longer…
S - walk in the rain, fly home.

I’m very busy with work for the next two weeks, and Sam is understandably super syked for Rubicon. So suspect I won’t be doing much climbing. Just running him out to Rubicon as opportunity arises.

STG - monitor weather forecast and time windows for climbing with decent conditions.

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power club / Re: Power Club 781 25 Nov - 1 Dec 2024

« Last post by Fiend on Today at 10:50:00 am »

Next week STG: Keep up with general conditioning - not enough supportive stuff. Don't go too far if fatigued - too much digging..
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes - n/a. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope (fuck above a pad) - nooooope. Keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners - I guess just about enough contact. Falling practise if I do routes indoors or out - n/a. Look after injuries - elbow going okay, shoulders generally gammy, (gym x 1) - no, elbow rehab x 2 - no, shoulder rehab x 2 - no, stretching x 3 - x 1 and should have been much more.


M - Rest. 45 mins stroll. Woke up with everything aching apart from left leg, so for once a rest day was actually warranted.

T - Minor activity.

W - Indoor bouldering @ Summit Up. 4 x V2-3, 6 x V3-4, 6 x V4-5 (4 flash, 2 x 2nd go, plus attempted 3 more that were close-ish). Felt fine on the warm-ups and mostly rubbish on anything trickier. Elbow a bit sore but okay. Shoulders and arms flamed after.
3 hours sporadic excavating, trundling, and scrubbing. Not too tired at the time but another terrible warm-up. Well done me.

T - Active rest. 1 hour walk. 4 mins insertion / 45 seconds immersion cold water punishment. Shoulders and arms felt okay in the morning and fine after.

F - Minor activity.

S - 4+ hours excavating, digging, trundling, scraping, hacking and scrubbing. Terrible training but at least I didn't try to go to the wall afterwards.

S - Indoor bouldering @ RockOver Shartson. 6 x V1-3, 6 x V2-4, 6 x V3-5 (5 flash, 1 x 3rd go), 3 x V4-6 (2 flash, 1 briefly worked), 3 x V5-7 (2 flash, 1 x 3rd go). Also attempted a few V4-6s including the stupid lcl-tearing heelhook + blocked hold one, the stupid sideways jump off a volume one, and the stupid mantle your own arsehole off sloping shelf one. Didn't even try the stupid full dyno off underclings one, but generally enjoyed the ones with actual climbing. Probably still a bit fatigued but good fun. Elbow a bit aggravated but okay given the load. Cuddles with Wolfie the staffie x alsation x misc others. Stretching session.


Bletch. Did aim for an easier week after last weekend's success, but didn't do well with an overall balance especially the shambolic lack of mobility and rehab stuff.


Next week STG: Keep up with general conditioning. Don't go too far if fatigued. More mobility. Less digging.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope (fuck above a pad). Keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners. Falling practise if I do routes indoors or out. Look after injuries, (gym x 1), elbow rehab x 2, shoulder rehab x 2, stretching x 3.

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bouldering / Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)

« Last post by teestub on Today at 10:12:09 am »

The real issue I'd say is featuring it on a youtube vid. Effectively he is no longer alone at the crag and is normalising the practice in a way that is likely to result in more people doing it in more objectionable ways.

Yes this is where my issue lies really in this case, the normalisation. I’m sure there’s lots of stuff that gets done regularly, like that Vastervik vid where someone’s using a blowtorch to dry holds, but they don’t need to be put out to the wider climbing audience!

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bouldering / Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)

« Last post by Bonjoy on Today at 09:27:37 am »

Whilst you brought up Kai's channel, I've been meaning to post somewhere on UKB about his working sessions on Shaolin 9A, for anyone interested in seeing more of that climb




I'm not sure these videos are considered quality, but low key working sessions are easily my favourite type climbing media to consume nowadays.

Are we cool with bluetooth speakers at the crag these days?!

Out in the desert, on your own? I doubt the rattlesnakes find it any more disturbing than the presence of the climber. In this instance it seems no more or less objectionable than listening to music on earphones at the crag. In a UK context though you are far more likely to be disturbing wildlife and spoiling other people's day.
The real issue I'd say is featuring it on a youtube vid. Effectively he is no longer alone at the crag and is normalising the practice in a way that is likely to result in more people doing it in more objectionable ways.

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power club / Power Club 781 25 Nov - 1 Dec 2024

« Last post by duncan on Today at 08:26:21 am »

M - Shoulder/elbow rehab.: one arm locks at 120 elbow flexion, with some assistance x3s. Two arm lock-offs at 120 x10-15s. Handstands. Walked 10km. Plumbing: fitted isolation valve to bathroom cold water supply.

T - Shoulder/elbow rehab. as above. Plumbing: fitted new ball valve to the toilet cistern.
 
W - Shoulder/elbow/wrist conditioning: as above plus reverse curls. Hip flexibility.

T - Shoulder/elbow rehab. as above.

F - Westway 4x 4a, 4 x4c. Elbow pretty sore after this, not ideal. BBC Symphony Orchestra and chorus playing and singing Haydn’s Nelson Mass and Strauss’s Ein Heldenleben, wonderful.

S - Shoulder rehab. conditioning

S - Shoulder rehab./conditioning. Hip flexibility.

Not the greatest of weeks, elbow was improving with the one-arm locks then got worse again. Three weeks til I'm off to Jaén, need to forget training and focus on rehab.ing to make sure I can not feel too frustrated on the trip. Will rest for a couple of days then try to very gently ramp things back up.

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music, art and culture / Re: Anyone seen any good films lately - Part the second

« Last post by duncan on Yesterday at 08:23:29 pm »

Many of the classic Powell and Pressburger films are on iPlayer at the moment, along with Scorsese's documentary Made in England.

I particularly like The Life and Death of Colonel Blimp, probably because it tells the story of an out-of-touch old Englishman. Pressburger, who produced and wrote the scripts, was one of the influx of European Jews in the 1930s that had such a great influence on mid-century Britain. It was photographed by a Frenchman, scored by a German Jew, and costumed by a Czech. I am very fond of art from migrants to the UK that comments on Englishness or Britishness. P+P films are both quintessentially English (the non-English British tend to be presented as exotics) but with an alien's perspective. It was released in 1943 but has a sympathetic German character who plays a central role in the film, in a key scene critiquing Blimp and by implication the traditional British approach to warfare as an extension of the playing fields of Eton. This probably all sounds a bit dry but its a warm-hearted and dryly funny film that was a box office hit in war-time Britain.

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get involved: access, environment, BMC / Re: BMC Strategy Update - Have Your Say!

« Last post by kingholmesy on Yesterday at 08:17:39 pm »

+1 to all of that.

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shootin' the shit / Re: Why is farmland worth so much if farming is so unprofitable?

« Last post by teestub on Yesterday at 07:59:49 pm »

On the Otley Road, you can see them in google now. Not properties I’d be buying for the next few decades to see how much they settle!
https://maps.app.goo.gl/t8axFVAyy5i1QvuG7?g_st=ic

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bouldering / Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)

« Last post by Fiend on Yesterday at 07:43:01 pm »

I've just said it directly, whilst emphasising it's nice to be out enjoying the sounds of nature etc etc.

It is a totally fucking naff thing to have on the go at the crag. Cunt behaviour for cunts.

Same. I was at a block and two fellas came up and put their pads down and turned their speaker on. I hesitated but decided to tell them that it's considered pretty poor to play music at the crag and they did turn it off to be fair (they also left lol)

Double victory then!!

Also I agree with all the grumping so far, please topic-split if appropriate and really let rip 

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shootin' the shit / Re: Why is farmland worth so much if farming is so unprofitable?

« Last post by Paul B on Yesterday at 07:40:52 pm »

Where are those Stubbs? With a bit of geo-reinforcement you can get some bloody high, very steep (70 degree?) retaining walls. A developer over here tried using an American code for such things and had a few fall down fairly promptly!