UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => new routes => Topic started by: ANIMAL on June 05, 2020, 09:52:50 pm
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the old project nicknamed Orange Suntan on 2 Tier was finally done on Wednesday by Ben Moon , at 8b ( font 7c+ }
it looked about E8 with a potential ground scraping fall . He climbed it on the bolts placed by Rupert Davies he has since moved the significant bolt up a bit and replaced the rest and the belay .
I first placed some pegs in this thirty years ago to hold me in to try it on a tope rope but quickly abandoned the idea and ever since have suggested it to various people so it was nice to be there and watch it done
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the old project nicknamed Orange Suntan on 2 Tier was finally done on Wednesday by Ben Moon , at 8b ( font 7c+ }
it looked about E8 with a potential ground scraping fall . He climbed it on the bolts placed by Rupert Davies he has since moved the significant bolt up a bit and replaced the rest and the belay .
I first placed some pegs in this thirty years ago to hold me in to try it on a tope rope but quickly abandoned the idea and ever since have suggested it to various people so it was nice to be there and watch it done
Really cool this was done by Ben Moon, 36 years after Jerry did the route next to it. Still got it!
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Glad he got it done. I didn't bolt it though - I just tried it briefly and pulled a hold off before doing Kali Yuga. Keen to try Ben's method with the new crimp he found - I thought it was about font 8a+ off the pinch. Is he going to stick with the name?
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Called "Lockdown" I believe (unless he's changed his mind)
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....along with 30 other FAs nationwide this spring!
Great effort Ben, still got it indeed.
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the name is also a nod to Countdown a few routes along
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Had a play on this today. Fun route. Managed to break off a glued foot hold below the crux. Looks like it was glued on with wet beach sand! The glue/sika crumbled like dried mortar. I've got it and will stick it back on next weekend, if not before. Rupert, the crux off that pinch would be horrendous. Do you know if Ben use a small crimp just below it?
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Rupert, the crux off that pinch would be horrendous. Do you know if Ben use a small crimp just below it?
He did.