UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => beta - chuffing => Topic started by: AJM on August 08, 2018, 08:05:44 pm
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So how hard is the start section, and how much of it is actually properly sketchy?
Been ticking a few things at Lulworth this year and the list of frequently-done things between me and MotB seems to be decreasing. But it looks scary!
I've watched a few people on it and they've all made the bottom look pretty steady. But it's hard to tell how much of that is just them being good, and it's also a bit hard to get perspective on how much of that initial section is actually at risk - is it just where you move right (and then back left) or is more of the initial section close to or above that ledge?
If it helps to relate difficulty to any of the easier stuff thereabouts - Horny, Animal Mag, Window, Gates etc - then I'm familiar enough with them for that to make sense/be helpful. Or any other currency of difficulty within reason :)
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Hi AJM,
I have a sneaky suspicion that we might have met at Lulworth about three weeks ago - at the start of animal magnetism - I jumped off the top and you (if it was you!) asked what had happened as you thought I'd fallen off the top slab!
Either way - I did MotB the day after that. I actually thought it was pretty pokey for the first third of the route. Definitely safe to make a controlled jump to the water but plausible that one could hit the rock from most of the moves within the section. The holds are generally big on that part, although some of the moves big and athletic. It's mostly well controlled climbing except for one big roll over move that tall people seem to find easy (you might be able to rescue this move if you blew it as your lower hand is on a big jug) and one cut-loose when you're on massive holds (feels safe despite how it may look). Definitely less intimidating with good beta. I'll say F7a for the first third until the point where you are back fully over the water.
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Thanks reeve - I don't specifically recall it but that may well have been me, I've been round there a fair few times this summer cheering people on! I'm fairly non-descript I'm afraid - brown hair, early/mid (let's be optimistic!) 30s, about 5'11" - but it might narrow it down if the person you're thinking had dreads or was just out of school! If it was a weekend then on the beach I would probably have had my little boy in tow.
Good knowledge, thanks. I always find that wall difficult to get perspective on from either the ledge or the sea so was never quite sure where you above. Is the cut-loose you mentioned where you've gone right (big reach right, possible a heel, match out right?) to set up for the move back left (after which you're probably then ok)? I assume the rollover is a few moves below that somewhere.
Cheers,
Andy
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Crucially it feels a lot more insecure if it’s greasy. I’ve done the start a couple of times (not completed the route) and once looked at the start on my own but backed off as I wanted a spot on the first moves.
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I’m thinking of maybe checking this out sometime soon, does anyone have any beta for the stopper move at the top that people talk about?
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https://youtu.be/5gOAGf2XyAM
About a minute in. I think the hard bit is basically going to and then onwards from the small right hand pocket he gets then - he pulls through, I've seen people also try to go again from it I think...
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Awesome! Thanks.
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I’m thinking of maybe checking this out sometime soon, does anyone have any beta for the stopper move at the top that people talk about?
Give me a shout if you want company, incidentally - high on my list for this year.....
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I’m thinking of maybe checking this out sometime soon, does anyone have any beta for the stopper move at the top that people talk about?
Give me a shout if you want company, incidentally - high on my list for this year.....
+1, can’t wait. It’s all training for dws
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Frothing for some DWS action this year, and Mark of the Beast is high on the list!
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Excellent. Be keen to meet others there. Probably will be there tomorrow for a quick session!