UKBouldering.com
places to visit => indoor walls => competitions => Topic started by: GraemeA on June 30, 2017, 10:23:09 am
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Streaming is on the event page http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/component/ifsc/?view=event&WetId=6411
Lead quals are on now and semis & finals tomorrow.
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OK, bouldering scores I understand.
Can somebody please explain what Jessica Pilz's "43 2." means and why it is better than Janja's "Top 1."?
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It's not better. 43 2 means hold 43, second highest on the route (Top 1. means top and therefore necessary highest on the route). If Pilz is ranked higher than Gangbret it's because she did better on the 2nd qualifying route.
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It's not better. 43 2 means hold 43, second highest on the route (Top 1. means top and therefore necessary highest on the route). If Pilz is ranked higher than Gangbret it's because she did better on the 2nd qualifying route.
2nd highest meaning ranked 2nd highest out of the whole field rather than meaning the penultimate hold, although of course occasionally they might coincide.
The overall 'score' is calculated by multiplying the ranking from the 2 routes (and then taking the square root to keep the numbers smaller and more manageable on screens etc). There is the added factor of the athlete gets the average score if there are ties on that place, so if 3 people are tied on 2nd place on 1 route their average rank for the route is (2+3+4)/3 = 3. After the calc is done you are then ranked on this raw score. Simples.
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Thanks both.
So not wildly dissimilar to the US Nationals bouldering system then? Except that approximate square roots as a mental arithmetic exercise are a bit easier than approximate fourth or fifth roots.
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Which version of the US system are you talking about? This year, last year, the year before.
Lead scoring has been the same for over 25 years!
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1- awesome to see Laura Rogora match almost every hold, and just keep going and going.
2 was Adam Ondra's knee pad the first in (international) climbing comps? I've never seen one. Any rules to consider? Could climbers (boulderers) make themselves sticky rubber shorts and tops?
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Bit rubbish it didn't show Molly climbing at all, just lowering off.
As for the knee pad i thought they were not allowed but it looks like they are. Can't find anything in the handbook about them.
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Does anyone know if these will be available not live, couldn't find any links on youtube for them?
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Does anyone know if these will be available not live, couldn't find any links on youtube for them?
I will ask. Might be tomorrow before I respond though.
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Bit rubbish it didn't show Molly climbing at all, just lowering off.
As for the knee pad i thought they were not allowed but it looks like they are. Can't find anything in the handbook about them.
Is you sort of infer, they are not dis--allowed therefore they are allowed.
(Adam did check with us first before he started)
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No replays?
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No replays?
+1
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Replay with Italian commentators: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-NaiTOm8GOc
(some short announcements in English)
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Climbing starts at 34:20
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Cheers man.