UKBouldering.com
places to visit => indoor walls => competitions => Topic started by: Durbs on March 04, 2016, 04:48:13 pm
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Looks a good line-up this year - should make for a great comp.
Gutted can't make it (again...ever...) but hope it's streamed live.
Male title up for grabs as no Megos to defend his crown. Strong competition for Dave Barrans from Webb, McColl, Verhoeven and Hojer.
Competition for Shauna from Le Neve, Tracey, Crane, Merrick, Klinger.
None of the regular IFSC ladies though? Pooch, Mascarenas, Garnbret, Akiyo etc?
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Apparently Ty is coming too and is supposed to be in amazing shape. Yep the women's isn't such a strong field, which is a shame. The semis / finals are being streamed. Should be a great event as always :2thumbsup:
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Seeing as The Dave Parry is better than Megos, can he go in as defending champ?
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None of the regular IFSC ladies though? Pooch, Mascarenas, Garnbret, Akiyo etc?
What three of them have in common is not being based in Europe, so perhaps not wanting to run up hefty travel costs for anything short of a world cup round.
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Rumour has it Britain's Strongest Fisherman (or is that Britain's Fishiest Climber?) is entering.
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Robson Green?
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Privileged seating this year - https://www.climbingworks.com/shop/media-books/events/rab-cwif16-finals-spectator-seating/
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Rumour has it Britain's Strongest Fisherman (or is that Britain's Fishiest Climber?) is entering.
He probably won't turn up. Some excuse about last minute pond conditions being too good.
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Place your bets!
Men: Webb, Hojer, McColl
Women: Coxsey, Tracy, someone Swiss?
I reckon the final will be uber comp style with some ridiculous compression, plus they'll throw in something weird of course. A flared offwidth please :P
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Depends on the setting, but if there are some coordination jumps McColl or Hojer wins
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There'll be everything. It's the 10th anniversary so I expect Percy and his team will be pulling out the stops.
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Rooting for Michaela to place well in the women's be good to see her get into the final.
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There'll be everything. It's the 10th anniversary so I expect Percy and his team will be pulling out the stops.
but i thought they only opened at the end of 2006, so would it not be 10th comp, rather than anniversary
not being a pedant, i just remember those early comps very fondly
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Dunno Sam said it was the 10th so I guess 10th CWIF, hence the big prize fund and cast of wads
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Let's not forget the first one was the CWIM. Don't know why that didn't catch on.
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Fantastic, no mention of Tyler or Eric Shun the strong Spanish guy both of whom have climbed 8C. Pretty strong field then :o
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I'd like to see Rustam and Ty do well. Be great to have Louis in the final too!
Also come on Michaela! :boxing:
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Dunno Sam said it was the 10th so I guess 10th CWIF, hence the big prize fund and cast of wads
10th comp probably?
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Shit didn't know Rustam was there as well, did wonder who I was curling earlier while warming up for my coffee!
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Are quali' results up anywhere?
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Yes...
https://www.climbingworks.com/the-beta/events/cwif/
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Men Top 20:
1 McColl Sean
2 Gelmanov Rustam
3 Verhoeven Jorg
4 Barrans David 8)
5 Rugens Rolands
6 Roberts Aidan
7 Pope Jim 8)
8 Webb Jimmy :o
8 Cousins Matthew
10 Noble James
11 Phillips Nathan
12 Ometz Baptiste
13 O'Connor Daragh
14 Firnenburg David
15 Scarperi Stefan
16 Khazanov Alex
17 Landman Tyler 8) / :o
18 Hojer Jan :o (18th?!)
19 Bosi William
20 Watson Adam
Women - Team GB representing!
1 Klingler Petra
2 Coxsey Shauna
3 Tracy Michaela
4 Le Neve Melissa
5 Crane Leah
6 Caulier Chloe
7 Kamin Andrea
8 Bartschi Natalie
9 Hayes Tara
10 Sparte Jara
11 Peet Gill
12 Slaney Hannah
13 Morris Abigail
14 Bacmeister Ellie
14 Rema¡kar Ajda
16 Thompson-Smith Molly
17 Watterson Victoria
18 Schwab Tabea
19 Langenkamp Noemi
20 Zijlstra Vera
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The big guys got schooled CWIF style! Didn't see much of Rustam but watched McColl do around half a dozen problems. Similar to Megos he's basically amazing at absolutely everything (hence a score of 297)!
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3 Brits ahead of Webb and Hojer. Go ed lads
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How did our own Fish-Faced Willackers do?
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Can someone explain how you get ranked? I would have thought it would be number of tops first, then bonuses, then how many attempts it took. Looks like Jan must have had a terrible time on some problems, 43 attempts!
Is it like mini golf where you stop counting after 8 ;)
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Terrible camera work. Clock down to 3.30 before it even focuses on climbing on some blocs. Showing people brushing when a climber on another bloc is climbing.
Frustrating!
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Not impressed with the mens problems, bunch of 8C climbers and we get a slopey dyno, a slab, some convoluted upside down volume mantle, and a 123 sideways dyno.
Womens #2 was right on the money, why couldn't we see stuff like this for the men?
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Terrible audio. Continual pops and cracks from the microphone and for quite a while could hardly hear Mina.
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I thought it was excellent. thought the mens problems were great, and Rustam was awesome on M4. If you'd rather watch a campus comp, fine, but I'll continue enjoying watching folk having to display a variety of skills and work stuff out. Womens were good too, shauna a total class apart though, which took some tension out of it. Commentary was a bit quiet.
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I thought it was good too. Highlights definitely Sean on p3 and Rustam on P4.
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Gutted for Michaela though, she was so close to coming second!
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I thought it was excellent. thought the mens problems were great, and Rustam was awesome on M4. If you'd rather watch a campus comp, fine, but I'll continue enjoying watching folk having to display a variety of skills and work stuff out. Womens were good too, shauna a total class apart though, which took some tension out of it. Commentary was a bit quiet.
I would take any 2 of the 4 but as a whole I thought it a little boring.
Problem 1 everyone looked comfortable to the bonus 1 tall guy topped it jumping from the start foothold to the penultimate hold, 2nd tall guy comes close with same method. Nobody else looked remotely close. Needed a foot jib somewhere by my reckoning. Not that exciting as it was fairly clear that only the tall guys were going to top it.
Problem 2 was good although it seemed over with once you got the right foot on the volume, harder for the tall guys? maybe as a balance to problem 1
Problem 3 seemed way too cryptic, topped by sean but nobody else made it past the 3rd move
Problem 4 was great when somebody topped it but most didn't make it past the 2nd move also seemed not too hard after the circus tricks.
All in all I thought the cruxes were too low and didn't build much anticipation, nobody was getting any closer than their previous attempt or competitor. Powerful climbing can be technical too, its hardly just campusing, and to have 1 or 2 problems to contrast the cryptic tech would have been great.
Setting will never please everybody I guess.
The womens set seemed excellent, competitors progressing further up the problem with each go, last move heart break, and Shauna making it look easy at times
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I found the problems great overall, except for mens 1 (too basic and badly morpho) and the womens slab (too easy?). But its minor points.
I don't get is the feet first start of w2 followed WC-like starting rules or if it was enforced with an ad-hoc exception.
Does somebody know? If it followed official rules (as in: 4 starting points, one or several of them being the small bue mat) then how did they make sure that it only worked feet first???
I'm very curious
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Not impressed with the mens problems, bunch of 8C climbers and we get a slopey dyno, a slab, some convoluted upside down volume mantle, and a 123 sideways dyno.
Womens #2 was right on the money, why couldn't we see stuff like this for the men?
I'm going to go ahead and disagree with this too. We were watching it live and it was great. Sean showed the same great set of all round skills that got him 297 in the qualifiers and deserved to win. The lead kept changing hands and going into the last problem 3 climbers could still have won. Plus two really important tops happening after the buzzer with the crowd going mental. What more do you want? They've tried basic setting in the WCs before and it's dull as hell.
The women's was less exciting but it's always going to be that way unless they manage to get someone who can really compete with Shauna to come like Markovic a few years back. Shame for Michaela though, so close to doing so well.
So for what it's worth, I think the setters nailed it more or less (agree with ghsino, M1 and F3 were the least good) and the final was up there with the best WCs I've watched.
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I thought it was a great comp.
Plenty of tension close to the end. Sure Shauna stretched her legs towards the end, but for most of the comp, the results were far from confirmed.
In some ways, it's great to see great talent winning through - especially when tested over a variety of different disciplines (Shauna) - but also the tension held in the men's comp until McColl's space bending antics under pressure on M3. I think until that point there were 4 male competitors on one problem each; all to play for.
The personal battle between Gelmanov and M4 was also engrossing. On both of the above, the effort to pull it out the bag when things had looked so unlikely, to keep that focus, that was worth waiting for. F'ing fantastic really.
Also, the display from Shauna on W4 was just a privilege. Similarly for me, Leah's almost mathematical breakdown of W1 was a real treat. As for Michaela, gutting, but heartbreak is part of the drama.
For me, the evening was a real treat, great hospitality, event supporting a great cause. Mega craic.
Come on, big up the crew at the Works for a great event.
:dance1: :beer2: +1 to you all.
Thanks.
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I thought it was a great comp.
Agreed - the atmosphere was inspiring, the problems seemed really good at splitting them, the social side of it was spot on.
Nice one Works :D
Leah's almost mathematical breakdown of W1 was a real treat.
I too thought that was ace!
I had a great time watching it. Perhaps it was harder to follow on the Live feed, but I think anyone at the event or who entered would agree that it was palm-sweating stuff watching both the men and women and the route setters set over 46 high quality problems.
They can't be expected to transmit the correct sequence to people's brains though.
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Yeah I think it was different watching over the feed with no atmosphere. I'm guessing there was around 75 total attempts of these problems, half of which involved somebody falling off the 1st 3 moves. Jimmy Webb probably the best boulderer in the world right now, walked off before his time was up on most problems looking somewhat bemused.
Just seemed like people either topped it or got shut down early on, never any of those nail biting "so nearly" moments.
Tough job being a route setter...
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What DT said.
The whole weekend was absolutely brilliant.
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. Jimmy Webb probably the best boulderer in the world right now, walked off before his time was up on most problems looking somewhat bemused.
Apples an oranges.
Even if comps could focus on the exact same subset of movement/strength skills as rock, they will never be the same thing.
Being strong in a comp format requires a subset of mental skills that is not necessarily needed outdoors, and vice versa. This alone is enough to explain that the best in either discipline may not excel at the other.
On one particular occasion I've witnessed some 20 non competitors in a comp-like situation, on routes that looked easy for most of them. 80% fell way before being "at their limit", maybe 10% had the absolute best climbing performance of their lives, only 10% performed "predictably"
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I only watched the last half of the final, I enjoyed it.
The problems seemed to involve a bit of thought and managed to seperate the climbers, not sure what else you can ask for :shrug:
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We all know that CWIF is great.
But BIFF is greater.
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Very good finals. It's a shame all the male finalist were the international wads, but I suppose that's why they're international wads.
I was impressed with Shauna making problems 2 and 4 look like complete paths compared to the other competitors. Although thinking about it, isn't Shauna an 8b+ boulderer competing against 8a boulderers? It must be quite tricky trying to set something that's challenging enough for her but still gives the others a chance.
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Same problem the US Nationals setters used to have with Pooch until the rise of Megan Mascarenas
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HEEEEEEEEYY Mascarenas
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Just seemed like people either topped it or got shut down early on, never any of those nail biting "so nearly" moments.
Except michaela dropping two tops? Or McColl doing M3 after the buzzer? Or Gelmanov sticking the M4 dyno after the buzzer?
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It must be quite tricky trying to set something that's challenging enough for her but still gives the others a chance.
one way of viewing it is that it is ok if routes/boulders are a path for an overly dominant competitor.
i heard it expressed as follows:
"routes (boulders) should be set so that those likely to get second place have a small, but relevant chance of topping them, if they are in their best physical and mental shape".
anyways it is not impossible to set "against" one specific climber, if needed. It just wouldn't be fair if by accident he/she doesn't win!!!
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Just seemed like people either topped it or got shut down early on, never any of those nail biting "so nearly" moments.
Except michaela dropping two tops? Or McColl doing M3 after the buzzer? Or Gelmanov sticking the M4 dyno after the buzzer?
I wasn't talking about the women's comp I thought that was good. Yes Sean and Gelmanov topped the other competitorss didnt get past the 3rd move on these problems, which is what I said.
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I've put together a couple of albums from the CWIF
http://www.acefilmandphotography.com/cwif-2016-semi-finals
http://www.acefilmandphotography.com/cwif-2016-finals
Let me know what you think.
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Thank god, i thought you meant that shit relentless techno!
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Just seemed like people either topped it or got shut down early on, never any of those nail biting "so nearly" moments.
Except michaela dropping two tops? Or McColl doing M3 after the buzzer? Or Gelmanov sticking the M4 dyno after the buzzer?
In the words of Magnus Magnusson "I've started so I'll finish"
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Or the words of Magnus ver Magnussen "that was pretty heavy"
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I missed problem 1, but otherwise watched the rest of it live. I thought it was for sure one of the most, if not the most, engaging comps I've seen.
On the men's side, Sean doing m3 was absolutely nuts. Gelmanov came close to getting there at the buzzer, but didn't quite get make it and no one else figured out the beta. M4 was awesome to see. If I had one complaint, I'd say that the tall guys had a major disadvantage on m2 and m3. As I said, I didn't see m1, so maybe it evened out.
On the women's side, the slab on w3 was too easy. But that did add more excitement to w4 as topping it could change everything. Otherwise it felt like the setter's nailed the difficulty and styles. There's just too big of a gap with Shauna atm to make everything hard for her would mean no one else would stand a chance.
Re: the circus tricks comp problems. Overall this is something that has taken me time to learn to appreciate. I hated it at first, but I've come to realize that its A-entertaining, B-good for overall climbing as we are starting to see those same movement skills coming to real rock, and C-it makes the competitors work their minds as well as bodies as they have to show on the spot creativity and nous.
All that said, I think there is a place for BIFF and the RAW DISPLAY OF STRENGTH AND POWER :strongbench:
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On the men's side, Sean doing m3 was absolutely nuts. Gelmanov came close to getting there at the buzzer, but didn't quite get make it and no one else figured out the beta.
I'm not even that sure that Sean worked it out...he got to the top, but I'm not quite sure how...
Overall, the best comp that I have ever been to by a long mile. Very good all round.
I would have liked some more raffle prizes on the day...three seemed a bit short - and two of the winners weren't even there to receive them which seemed a bit lousy to all the people in the room.
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Just read that the Austrian nationals were on Saturday too. Slightly unfortunate scheduling clash if the aim is to attract top international talent.
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Just read that the Austrian nationals were on Saturday too. Slightly unfortunate scheduling clash if the aim is to attract top international talent.
I dont think that they failed on that front for the Men's at least.
Maybe Anna Stohr for the womens? Then you are looking at Japan for the rest.
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I thought it was the best CWIF yet, although I am biased. The energy and noise on the mat was pretty intense, but I guess that is something that its hard to get over on the live-stream. The packed crowd and some of the amazing performances from the athletes made it a pretty special event.
Post CWIF action on the grit has been sporadic, although Sean McColl and Jorg Verhoeven both did Gaia today - it was Sean's first route on grit.... oh, and I shot Jerry Moffatt with a starting pistol at Stanage. Nobody was injured, but I am now slightly deaf in my right ear.
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To go with all your other injuries :boohoo:
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Hey Percy, one thing I thought was about the qualifiers, from a punter's point of view... I entered a few years ago and had a wicked time doing and trying lots of problems. This time it seemed that the standard and jumped a lot and there were very few I could do, or even engage with. Someone suggested that this might be because I'm older, but I don't see how that could be true?
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Post CWIF action on the grit has been sporadic, although Sean McColl and Jorg Verhoeven both did Gaia today - it was Sean's first route on grit.... oh, and I shot Jerry Moffatt with a starting pistol at Stanage. Nobody was injured, but I am now slightly deaf in my right ear.
And there was this
https://www.instagram.com/p/BC8fG_uDDyl/?taken-by=janhojer
Good comp btw. Well done all!
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God he's fucking massive!
And strong, talented etc
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Just read that the Austrian nationals were on Saturday too. Slightly unfortunate scheduling clash if the aim is to attract top international talent.
It's the other way around though, we are a significant international event who sets our date 10 or 11 months in advance. We can't work around every national event eg last weekend was French nationals, next weekend is French team selection. 2 weeks ago was Canadian nationals.
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Hey Percy, one thing I thought was about the qualifiers, from a punter's point of view... I entered a few years ago and had a wicked time doing and trying lots of problems. This time it seemed that the standard and jumped a lot and there were very few I could do, or even engage with. Someone suggested that this might be because I'm older, but I don't see how that could be true?
It's got progressively harder each year, which is inevitable given it now attracts so many good climbers (not just from overseas). I scored 231 in 2014, 207 in 2015 and 155 this year (though this year I climbed v badly). The standard of climber in session 1 was ridiculously high. If the problems had been the same grade as just 2 years ago 50+ people would have had scores of 270 and above. One option would be to throw in 5 extra hard problems (with double points?) in the quals with climbers having the option to try those rather than the 5 easiest? Basically if you want to qualify for the semis you have to try the 5 elite problems. I agree there is a danger it might become too elitist if the level of difficulty continues going up. I didn't feel particularly worked the following day simply because I didn't do much climbing!
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And there was this
https://www.instagram.com/p/BC8fG_uDDyl/?taken-by=janhojer
Good comp btw. Well done all!
No flash of The Ace from Jimmy?? How disappointing. ;)
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One option would be to throw in 5 extra hard problems (with double points?) in the quals with climbers having the option to try those rather than the 5 easiest?
the classic french contest scoring system works well for this, as long as the number of boulders is high enough and there are not too many "odd/morpho as fuck/hyperconditionsdependent" problems.
each boulder is worth 100 points, and its ascensionists get an equal share of them.
One ascensioninst: he gets 100 points.
Two ascensionists: they get 50 points each
Three ascensionists: they get 33,3... points
etc..
when on the edge of making/not making the next round, this format rewards a specific strategy revolving around doing conditions dependent stuff before they get too chalky and sweaty, and finding "the" problem that suits your most "special" ability.
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The people who any same person thought would get to the final got to the final, nothing needs changing
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Can you still watch the finals online?
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The people who any same person thought would get to the final got to the final, nothing needs changing
If a hundred people in the qualifiers had a shit time because they climbed 10 problems between them Id say that's reason to at least look at changing the format a little.
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Can you still watch the finals online?
They are embedded at the bottom of this page http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=70324
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Someone suggested that this might be because I'm older, but I don't see how that could be true?
It's true, you are older.
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The people who any same person thought would get to the final got to the final, nothing needs changing
If a hundred people in the qualifiers had a shit time because they climbed 10 problems between them Id say that's reason to at least look at changing the format a little.
Did that happen though? I know a load of the kids got low scores but there's plenty of comps just for them and it was always clear it would be set for adults. I topped 12 and perhaps could have done a couple more with better tactics but safe to say most of the ones I didn't do were far out of my league. I had a lot of fun and still had the energy for an aero session afterwards, perfect ;D.
I thought the real masterstroke of the setting was that almost every problem was really droppable, kept things nice and interesting. I don't think they need to change anything and as Dense said, the right people made it through. Well, apart from that tiny minority who always seem to do much better in rounds without route judges :spank:.
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Get outta town!
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Hey Percy, one thing I thought was about the qualifiers, from a punter's point of view... I entered a few years ago and had a wicked time doing and trying lots of problems. This time it seemed that the standard and jumped a lot and there were very few I could do, or even engage with. Someone suggested that this might be because I'm older, but I don't see how that could be true?
I was sure I saw your name on a scorecard with a perfect score of 300 though Niall :bounce:
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Grimers maths was never his strong point when he scored 310 out of 300, suspicions were raised
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Grimers maths was never his strong point when he scored 310 out of 300, suspicions were raised
I wasn't there but I'm prepared to back his claim as a witness.
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I've never seen Grimer climb but I bumped into him at the Co-Op on Eccy road once and he seemed a nice enough guy, so I know with 100% certainty that he's done Fatman.
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Grimers maths was never his strong point when he scored 310 out of 300, suspicions were raised
He did say he was going to give 103.33% of effort on all the problems that day.
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There's no way he could have got 310 - at that time of day the conditions would have been too humid. Impossible.
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I just found out his personal rute judge hasn't been climbing that long and has only recently got strong.
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The people who any same person thought would get to the final got to the final, nothing needs changing
If a hundred people in the qualifiers had a shit time because they climbed 10 problems between them Id say that's reason to at least look at changing the format a little.
Did that happen though? I know a load of the kids got low scores but there's plenty of comps just for them and it was always clear it would be set for adults. I topped 12 and perhaps could have done a couple more with better tactics but safe to say most of the ones I didn't do were far out of my league. I had a lot of fun and still had the energy for an aero session afterwards, perfect ;D.
Not sure as I wasn't there. Just saying that it's probably not a good idea to judge a comp only on whether the right people got in to the finals.
Probably a bit of a moot point though, seems like most people had a lot of fun so can't have been too far off the mark!
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punters shut down in qualifying round of international climbing comp shocker :slap:
perhaps it's time to drop the f and reinstate the m if folk are feeling hard done by :shrug:
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CWIF qualis are a bit harder than they used to be. There are several reasons for this...and you guys have all named the most obvious ones.
It's worth considering that I use 6 world class setters for this comp and the brief for setting qualification problems is that each setter needs to create 1 hard problem, 3 medium problems and 1 easy one. I then provide a smorgasbord of new holds and volumes and set them loose. And they each set 6 hard problems and try to convince me that at least a few of them are easy really. Every bloody time. And the worst thing is that their problems are all so good in their own way that I am loathed to change them and start loosing quality by making stuff easier. We do 'de-beef' a lot of the problems, but when you start off with 30 8a's that need fixing that's a lot of de-beefing!
And the other obvious reason that Grimer struggles more nowadays is that he is old and decrepit
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You're asking em to each set 5 problems and they set 6? Motherfuckers can't even count, no wonder they can't grade.
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You're asking em to each set 5 problems and they set 6? Motherfuckers can't even count, no wonder they can't grade.
Yes but Percy's getting 6 for the price of 5... Cunning...
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the other obvious reason that Grimer struggles more nowadays is that he is old and decrepit
I heard that he was shorter too
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You're asking em to each set 5 problems and they set 6? Motherfuckers can't even count, no wonder they can't grade.
Not forgetting that Percy was one of the 6 setters so he disobeyed his own instructions and then tried to mislead himself.
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This was the first year we weren't able to attend but caught up with this over the last few evenings with the missus and we really enjoyed it. Same highlights as everyone else really!
Real question is, how did Wackers do? ;)
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... And they each set 6 hard problems and try to convince me that at least a few of them are easy really....
:lol:
it is not hard, you just need to really crimp them (heard today)