UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Ethan on June 28, 2011, 08:39:32 pm
-
Hazel Findlay has only gone and repeated Dave Birkett's 'Once Upon A Time in the South West'! Amazing work! First female ascent of an E9 surely!
-
:bow:
-
:jaw:
fucking hell not only a e9 but a dave Birkett e9
:jaw:
:strongbench: :bow:
-
Legendary!
-
I heard she was going to go for it today. Was wondering if she got it in the bag.
Nice one Hazel!!
-
Incredible achievement. She posted the news on Facebook a couple of hour's ago. Belayed by her dad.
-
:jaw:
fucking hell not only a e9 but a dave Birkett e9
:jaw:
:strongbench: :bow:
:agree:
-
Amazing. Just amazing :punk:
-
Crivens, impressive.
-
Awesome!
-
Outstanding :jaw: but surley this is a significant repeat :worms: Only kidding this deserves it's own thread. :thumbsup:
-
Amazing! The UK girls have hit the heights in all disciplines recently with Shauna Coxsey and Emma Twyford cranking in bouldering and sport climbing respectively and now this!
-
Yeah, great to see the Ladies cranking hard
-
Amazing! The UK girls have hit the heights in all disciplines recently with Shauna Coxsey and Emma Twyford cranking in bouldering and sport climbing respectively and now this!
Absolutely, inspiring ascents all round.
-
:clap2: Well done Hazel :2thumbsup:
-
Blimey.
(http://dannysbyrne.files.wordpress.com/2010/06/anotherlevel.jpg)
-
From the UKC report on the FA:
What was the lead like?
A bit of a fight. You've got to stay positive as you are climbing for a while. I had to make a lot of the moves up. It was on-off a lot of the time. It was quite a fight up there, what with the rope drag. It's a big pitch.
No pushover for Birkett then & the route looks amazing:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=58697 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=58697)
-
Fantastic - well done Hazel (and for Steve holding the ropes) :bow:
-
Amazing ! As a side not i think Charlie Woodburn did it at the weekend as well (based on his facecrack status) :great:
sounds like he and Hazel were working it at the same time.
Cheers
Tim
-
.... Belayed by her dad.
He must be so proud!
Congratulations to both.
-
Just amazing. This is proving to be a fairly good year for hard routes betting done.
-
Just amazing. This is proving to be a fairly good year for hard routes betting done.
I didn't know William Hill took odds on such things.
-
Just amazing. This is proving to be a fairly good year for hard routes betting done.
I didn't know William Hill took odds on such things.
It's 3T's influence ;)
-
Just amazing. This is proving to be a fairly good year for hard routes betting done.
I didn't know William Hill took odds on such things.
I thought we all used the Largerstarfish bookie service for such things?
-
Dicks the lot of you. :) Curse my stubby fingers.
-
Just amazing. This is proving to be a fairly good year for hard routes betting done.
I didn't know William Hill took odds on such things.
I thought we all used the Largerstarfish bookie service for such things?
This is what happened last time someone went in to claim their winnings...
(http://i.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2009/07/09/article-1198467-05A4FD2A000005DC-241_468x286.jpg)
http://i.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2009/07/09/article-1198467-05A4FD2A000005DC-241_468x286.jpg (http://i.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2009/07/09/article-1198467-05A4FD2A000005DC-241_468x286.jpg)
-
Girl in crimpy slab shocker :o
Very cool stuff.
-
Nice, got to make sure you get a facetious comment in eh Fiend?
-
This is awesome! Is it the first female E9 in the UK?
(Slightly OT: I can think of US stuff that might get E9, like Beth Rodden's Meltdown route, but I'm not aware of any British hard cranking).
Well done Hazel!
-
It's a JOKE slackline, based on all the girls I know (except one through-route specialist) being huge fans of crimpy slabs. I hoped the "very cool stuff" was obvious enough.
-
based on all the girls I know (except one through-route specialist) being huge fans of crimpy slabs.
Lucinda / Oak. Nuff said.
-
Remember this is girls Fiend knows. I don't think even he thinks his tiny sample size has any bearing on the wider reality.
-
You leave my "tiny sample size" out of it :P
P.S. In actual seriousness, I have a couple of Qs...
Why did she choose OUATITSW rather than WOL? Apart from the former having a better line?
Why were Birkett's pegs accepted on ouaTITSw when the general trend has been to remove them off sea-cliffs, especially this slab?
-
It's a JOKE slackline, based on all the girls I know (except one through-route specialist) being huge fans of crimpy slabs. I hoped the "very cool stuff" was obvious enough.
I realised that it was an attempt at making a joke which is why I said you were being facetious...
fa·ce·tious/fəˈsēSHəs/ Adjective: Treating serious issues with deliberately inappropriate humor; flippant. (http://www.google.co.uk/search?q=define+facetious) :tease:
-
I can't remember an occassion when a the top level achieved by a woman in the UK has come so close to the top level achieved by man in any discipline.
(actually I've just remembered Glenda and Lucy Creamer have both onsighted trad E7 haven't they?)
-
Remember this is girls Fiend knows. I don't think even he thinks his tiny sample size has any bearing on the wider reality.
Word !
(http://northriverfalls.com/images/uploads/reaperminiatures/RPR03006.jpg) A friend of Fiend's
-
It's a JOKE slackline, based on all the girls I know (except one through-route specialist) being huge fans of crimpy slabs. I hoped the "very cool stuff" was obvious enough.
I think there's a serious point here, and not one that denigrates any of Hazel's achievement. Light people with less muscle are better at tinier holds, duh.
It reminds me of this:
if a 7stone man climbs something on small holds, i'm not shocked. an 8 stone man being able to hang onto an overhanging route for longer than the average man, again i'm not shocked. [snip] to me a 12 stone man putting his finger into a mono n lifting his body up is much more impressive than most things that go on, nearly everyone else has different views this is good since there's no way i'd want to sleep with most other peoples perceptions of beauty either.
Different things for different people. Hazel's track record sez she's no one-trick pony. In this instance she's cranked her way up a slabby horror show most of us would have no chance on as we're too fat or too weak or both. Well done her. It's still interesting how she's likely played to her strengths.
-
Good effort that lady. :2thumbsup:
Her dad belaying is very sweet too.
-
Incredible effort hammy :bow:
-
Oh dear someone played to their strengths to push the their grade ( and the grade of Female British climbing on trad) that's just shocking.
Why are people even bothering to make this point :shrug:
Dawes recently did something on slate and no one said "well it's one of his favourite rock types so its no surprise" why mention it because a lass did the same thing?
Amazing ascent by a very very talented climber, findley i salute you :bow:
-
It's people taking it seriously and thinking it's a point instead of a joke that is truly worrying. But then again maybe a significant repeat is a Very Serious Matter.
Talking of seriousness (ugh) anyone know any more about her route choice and dave's pegs??
-
It's people taking it seriously and thinking it's a point instead of a joke that is truly worrying. But then again maybe a significant repeat is a Very Serious Matter.
FFS everyone clocked it as a "joke", just not a very funny, nor appropriate one. :wall:
-
Fiend - The route Hazel chose is the obvious choice for any discerning climber - its the most obvious and beautiful line on the wall as it finds and climbs an amazing feature.
Can't answer your question about pegs due to my will to live ebbing slowly away answering spurious bollocks questions.
One answer out of two isn't bad though, is it?
Congrats Hammy - awesome effort. :bow:
-
Thanks Percy, errr I think. Wonder how it's overall quality is regarded compared to WOL... Obviously as both significant routes and ascents it's pretty interesting stuff.
-
Oh dear someone played to their strengths to push the their grade ( and the grade of Female British climbing on trad) that's just shocking.
Why are people even bothering to make this point :shrug:
Dawes recently did something on slate and no one said "well it's one of his favourite rock types so its no surprise" why mention it because a lass did the same thing?
Amazing ascent by a very very talented climber, findley i salute you :bow:
Seconded. And its not like San Simeon is a big fucking slabathon, is it?
-
(Ruby's cafe is quite short)
-
Effort!
-
I third Moo's point. Please stop diluting this thread with drivel....
-
Amazing! The UK girls have hit the heights in all disciplines recently with Shauna Coxsey and Emma Twyford cranking in bouldering and sport climbing respectively and now this!
:agree:amazing! i'm inspired like never before by brit women climbing! brilliant ascent Hazel.
I third Moo's point. Please stop diluting this thread with drivel....
4thd
-
British female climbs e9, nuff said!
-
Brilliant stuff :)
-
Women climbers are just as good as men, there just aren't as many of them. Fine effort though!
-
Balls to it. Wasn't being critical. But I'll take my puntering like a man. Don't want another yoga incident.
-
Balls to it. Wasn't being critical. But I'll take my puntering like a man. Don't want another yoga incident.
I've no idea what that string of words is about but i like 'em.
-
bring out the gimp!
-
Some information about it here, mostly about Charlie's ascent but a bit more about the route: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=62878 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=62878) , which is cool.
-
I stumbled upon this Hazel blogging about Once (http://hazelfindlay.wordpress.com/2011/06/28/hello-world/)
Nice to see her thoughts on the route and the style in which she climbed it
-
I stumbled upon this Hazel blogging about Once (http://hazelfindlay.wordpress.com/2011/06/28/hello-world/)
"Back in my Dad’s day (according to my Dad) head/redpoint tactics such as toproping, practising, tick marking, mock leading were for those climbers who were too rubbish to onsight or at least go ground up after a few tries. ‘Headpointing’ and ‘cheating’ for him and his friends were practically synonymous. Probably because anyone can do a route in 20 tries… right?"
Hazel's Dad top-roping Lost Illusions at Avon (c.1983):
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6078/6034453673_7c482de15f_z.jpg)
She also seems to have done a F8a+/8b (http://hazelfindlay.wordpress.com/2011/07/30/maine/)whilst supposedly woefully unfit and is almost embarrassed to admit it. Clearly hasn't quite got the hang of this blogging business yet!
-
I stumbled upon this Hazel blogging about Once (http://hazelfindlay.wordpress.com/2011/06/28/hello-world/)
Nice to see her thoughts on the route and the style in which she climbed it
Nice read, glad to hear something more about it after all the off-topic wittering on on this thread. She writes about it pretty well (i.e. takes the piss out of her dad a lot).
-
I saw that "Monkey do" DVD the other night which has some ace footage of HF. She sails up The Rainbow of Recalcitrance with consummate ease looking totally cool & confident. There's a quick chat at the top with her displaying modesty beyond her years. She then has a tussle with Gin Palace & try's soooooooo hard on clearly one of the hardest trad styli thrutch fests we have in't UK. Amazing efforts in States & SW as well. All very impressive from a 22 yr old!
....rapidly laying claim to being the UK's trad Queen. There's a gag in waiting there ;)
-
"Back in my Dad’s day (according to my Dad) head/redpoint tactics such as toproping, practising, tick marking, mock leading were for those climbers who were too rubbish to onsight or at least go ground up after a few tries. ‘Headpointing’ and ‘cheating’ for him and his friends were practically synonymous. Probably because anyone can do a route in 20 tries… right?"
Hazel's Dad top-roping Lost Illusions at Avon (c.1983):
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6078/6034453673_7c482de15f_z.jpg)
:lol: :lol:
Great blog, shark/thesiger can we get this sucked in to the pile?