UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Doylo on May 16, 2011, 11:04:18 am
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Great effort, the Cave is now a mecca for super power endurance links! From me blog:
Pete Robins linked Lou Ferrino into Bonnie last night in Parisella's Cave. This has long been admired/touted as the visual line of the Cave but it has never really seen much attention until recently as Bonnie is such a tough little cookie on its own (Font 8a+). Pete first climbed Bonnie in the winter 09/10 after a bit of a seige and at that point the link seemed some way off. After Ben Bransby climbed Bonnie Extension and Neil Dyer did Bonnie in quick time the spotlight was back on the big link. Neil was looking like the main contender making quick progress and looking very strong. This was all the encouragement Pete needed and he got stuck in and soon found himself falling near the end. Last night he completed it thinking it to be of similar difficulty to the other two mega link ups he's done in there, Silk Cut and The Incredible Bulk. That would make it around Font 8b or French 8c+. The breakdown of the numbers would suggest that this new line is perhaps the hardest of the three. Bonnie is a power problem with hard moves which makes for a very spicy link. The line follows the two ramp features of the Cave. All we need now is for someone to finish this link up the extension for a mega boulder/route hybrid for a 9a combination.
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Pretty amazing!
Would be good to see it on film when the full extension link goes down.
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There should be a film of Lou/Bonnie online soon
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Nice, looking forward to seeing it! Great effort
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Bollocks. WHAT AN ARSE.
Given that the cave was the only dry venue this weekend, I drove up from London at 5am on Saturday. On the way there, I realise my tax is out of date as the fucking postman can't deliver my fucking mail to the right fucking address so I never get the fucking reminder. On saturday night, I meet up with a friend and a film maker who demand info on where to find stuff to film. I also find out that my headlights are both out. (Much excitement). So... Sunday arrives, and the cave again. Nothing is going down, I'm broken from Saturday, it's damp outside the cave and mint inside, and I absolutely positively have to leave to get home before it gets dark so I don't die or get fined for having no lights at all and no tax and driving at drink-driver speed to avoid attention from the cops.
Just as Pete starts running around warming up.
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Effort!! Would've been good to have a watch. We went to bloody indy instead... Cock.
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Was good to meet you on Saturday Lund. Bit warm in there for my tastes and a bit busy!
Any idea if those Japanese boys went downstairs and caused more destruction at LPT??
Sucks about the headlights/tax! Reminds me to sort the van out asap before another possible trip to Switzerland
Hopefully see you up this way again and we can do some yoga on the grass :thumbsup:
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Any idea if those Japanese boys went downstairs and caused more destruction at LPT??
Strong Japanese in the cave? What went down?
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Good work Pete!
I filmed everything and it's coming up in the next two weeks on my blog.
www.endlessflow.posterous.com (http://www.endlessflow.posterous.com)
/ Bjarne Sahlén
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I was leaving just as the two Japanese lads turned up! Was half tempted to stick around and watch as it seemed some crushing would be done.
Sick effort Pete, can't wait to watch the footage.
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Ye nice one Pete!! :great:
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Go Petey :great:
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Was good to meet you on Saturday Lund. Bit warm in there for my tastes and a bit busy!
Any idea if those Japanese boys went downstairs and caused more destruction at LPT??
Thanks for the beta.
I did hear that japanese wunder kid "westy" (apparently this is his last name) had a near death experience with belay building earlier in the week however. Tried to build a belay out of a few twigs tied off, leant back, the whole lot ripped and a HUGE fall was experienced. However. This may be hearsay. But it's what I heard.
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Strong Japanese in the cave? What went down?
The lad in the blue t shirt warmed up flashing R.A. without any beta then went down the bottom, worked out the start of In Hell and then dispatched it in 3 tries (after dropping the last move twice).
His mate in the red t shirt did Lou F in a couple of tries without pads or any beta too and it was their 6th day on or something then they went downstairs :bow:
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they didn't piss the LPt 8as tho!
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Probably a bit low on psyche when they had just had to leave such a majestic venue for its poorer neighbour :whistle:
(or more likely knackered!)
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very impressive link!
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I spoke to Pete last night and he said he had just repeated Bonnie extension - reckoned f8b+ for his sequence.
Interesting what he said about Bonnie too:
http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=508 (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=508)
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2nd part of this film shows the FA
Pete Robins and Dave Evans in North Wales (http://vimeo.com/25455647)
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2nd part of this film shows the FA
Pete Robins and Dave Evans in North Wales (http://vimeo.com/25455647)
Pete needs a better mat technician!