UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: Alex Smurthwaite on March 28, 2017, 08:58:00 pm
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How many other venues are there similar to broomgrove Road or the Henry price building in Leeds?
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blackberry buttress is a new old school venue
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There's a bridge in Darley Abbey in Derby that I think used to get a bit of attention.
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Endcliffe park wall!
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Bournebrook wall at Birmingham Uni
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There's a bridge mentioned in Nick Bullock's book, I forget where it was.
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The cherry hinton road bridge was a staple training venue for us at Cambridge.
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Where is that please Stu? Fairly frequent visitor to Cam -and Cherry Hinton- and fairly limited enthusiasm for Kelsey K. Thanks.
Otterspool Prom for scousers.
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There's a bridge mentioned in Nick Bullock's book, I forget where it was.
This is probably the place you're thinking of http://www.leicestershireclimbs.co.uk/index.php/slawston-bridge.html
Never had the pleasure of a visit myself unfortunately, looks mint...
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There used to be a great place in Stoke - Grant Street I think, a railway embankment of sculpted sandstone blocks - complete with photocopied topo and all, where Al William, Nick Dixon, I, and others used to train in the early 80s. I think that at the time it actually did us a lot of good.
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Spent a lot of time on the Bournebrook wall.. during my time there a layer of tarmac was added to the path that removed the small step under the arch. Made the arch traverse a lot less scary!
I moved to Manchester after that. There was a place that I never went to ... the Pump House? Never really fancied it as I'd done enough traversing at Birmingham so spent my time on the board at the McDougal or heading outside
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Pompey sea walls.
You could solo upto 40' or so over the shingle beach and only have a 50/50 chance of death and less than 1:1.2 chance of a broken limb. Perfect limestone, crimpy with the odd mono pocket.
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How many other venues are there similar to broomgrove Road or the Henry price building in Leeds?
Why the interest, out of interest?
Elderly Bristolians will remember the "Bog Wall (https://farm2.static.flickr.com/1463/23882162759_6b033a50cb_b.jpg)" on the public toilet beneath the main area, now nearly hidden by foliage.
I preferred the crimptastic Hotwell Road wall (https://www.google.co.uk/maps/place/Hotwell+Rd,+Bristol+BS8/@51.4510214,-2.6252377,3a,75y,64.49h,88.64t/data=!3m7!1e1!3m5!1sx1Pn17Ad1ATI65Fu8oDZVQ!2e0!6s%2F%2Fgeo2.ggpht.com%2Fcbk%3Fpanoid%3Dx1Pn17Ad1ATI65Fu8oDZVQ%26output%3Dthumbnail%26cb_client%3Dsearch.TACTILE.gps%26thumb%3D2%26w%3D392%26h%3D106%26yaw%3D17.60162%26pitch%3D0%26thumbfov%3D100!7i13312!8i6656!4m5!3m4!1s0x48718dc85a020281:0xd5d4c40e10de2705!8m2!3d51.4502432!4d-2.6181538!6m1!1e1) aka "Hot Wall" (very 1980s). Forget purple plastic blobs, this is the ideal training for Gogarth's North Stack wall, if you can mentally substitute the roar of passing lorries for the roar of the sea.
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In Nottingham there's "Terrace Wall" inside the grounds of the posh uni and the walls under Trent Bridge. Both are partially above water so provide the opportunity for some SWS. I sustained my first finger injury at the latter due to not realising that old school crimp strength is a prerequisite for all these type of places.
Nowadays there are two indoor walls in Notts plus one at each uni and I'd be surprised if either of these venues ever gets climbed on.
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The race course bridge in Chester. Quarried sandstone blocks covered in small to moderately sized holds.
I think the traverse is an old school 6a. Loads of eliminate potential and i still visit occasionally, it gets the afternoon sun.
Potential for top roping too if you're brave enough to trust the railings.... Fine as a youth but wouldn't dream of it now!
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Pompey sea walls.
You could solo upto 40' or so over the shingle beach and only have a 50/50 chance of death and less than 1:1.2 chance of a broken limb. Perfect limestone, crimpy with the odd mono pocket.
And I'm sure my fingers were stronger after a year or so of climbing there than 7 years on plastic...maybe just younger.
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Elderly Bristolians will remember the "Bog Wall (https://farm2.static.flickr.com/1463/23882162759_6b033a50cb_b.jpg)" on the public toilet beneath the main area, now nearly hidden by foliage.
as demonstrated by an elderly (sorry John ;)) bristolian at 15:20 in this vid:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CKdidg9vFPQ (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CKdidg9vFPQ)
Also featuring the old school and perma dry sea mills traverse at around 10:30
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Washford road bridge in Nobold, Shrewsbury, although not much chalk now in evidence on streetview.
Crewe flats was my favourite in Sheffield, much missed.
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The race course bridge in Chester. Quarried sandstone blocks covered in small to moderately sized holds.
I think the traverse is an old school 6a. Loads of eliminate potential and i still visit occasionally, it gets the afternoon sun.
Potential for top roping too if you're brave enough to trust the railings.... Fine as a youth but wouldn't dream of it now!
great venue if your local, not been for ages but they had cut the undergrowth well back last time I was there (years ago).
traverse is good and long and you can start on the left for up problems and move right getting bolder and bolder
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-F0gKi9hPxe0/T5pU-WLTn7I/AAAAAAAACko/LpZEyWbLk44/s400/IMG_0199.JPG)
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The brick wall on Uttoexeter Old Road, opposite the junction with Stepping Lane in Derby saw a lot of action from us in the late 90s/early 2000s as well.
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Do the Blantyre towers count?
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=15738#photos
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I moved to Manchester after that. There was a place that I never went to ... the Pump House? Never really fancied it as I'd done enough traversing at Birmingham so spent my time on the board at the McDougal or heading outside
I was told about this by a local when I first moved to Manc a few years ago. Never went though. There are a couple of old school pics on UKC https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=10177#photos
Also found this whilst having a browse! https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=444702
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Pompey sea walls.
You could solo upto 40' or so over the shingle beach and only have a 50/50 chance of death and less than 1:1.2 chance of a broken limb. Perfect limestone, crimpy with the odd mono pocket.
And I'm sure my fingers were stronger after a year or so of climbing there than 7 years on plastic...maybe just younger.
Crimptastic!
Note obligatory Ron Hills
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170329/bebdb065ce51b427fe24df5aa7e1b95c.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170329/63f2a0bc02381c505e38cbf293ea8b2a.jpg)
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Aberystwyth Sea Walls has been a favourite amoungst the AMC over here for years. It's pretty polished now and problem heights depend on how many billions of pebbles the sea stacks up at the bottom of the walls during storms but they make for a pleasent summers evening when all else fails.
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I moved to Manchester after that. There was a place that I never went to ... the Pump House? Never really fancied it as I'd done enough traversing at Birmingham so spent my time on the board at the McDougal or heading outside
I was told about this by a local when I first moved to Manc a few years ago. Never went though. There are a couple of old school pics on UKC https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=10177#photos
Also found this whilst having a browse! https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=444702
I've been there, edge of Fallowfield, a bit Broomgrove in style, very urban, average.
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Spent most of my first few years climbing on a bridge under the A1 motorway at Great Lumley near Durham. It was pretty much like broomgrove but the holds are bigger. 4m high, 50-60m long and totally dry. Its around 20 named and graded up lines and umpteen traverses plus two aretes and a finger crack up the central expansion joint.
Me and John Boyle spent the whole of my summer there in 85 doing all the problems before another climber spotted us on his way back to work. Before too long it was really popular and the NMC even had a couple of wednesday night meets there. I think i have a topo of it i wrote at my folks somewhere.
Anyone who has driven up the A1 north of Durham has driven over it. Still worth a visit now and right next to a great pub.
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The Horspath Horror -for both aid and free stuff
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New king line in central London, high ball corner/groove project. Arête looks a good un too. Any takers? (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170513/2405c7bc60f3dce97e01dca654843059.jpg)
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