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the shizzle => bouldering => new problems => Topic started by: Yoof on February 12, 2020, 01:38:33 pm

Title: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: Yoof on February 12, 2020, 01:38:33 pm
Managed to scrape my way up the sitter to egg arete today. Not heard of anyone doing this before(?), and enjoyed it enough to put 5 sessions in. Start sitting on the right side of the arete. Getting "the" hold is really knacky but not that hard.

https://vimeo.com/390971387
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: old cheese on February 12, 2020, 02:19:44 pm
Great! That looks worth a tickle. I love the fact that the top still
looks like the hard bit though
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: Yoof on February 12, 2020, 02:32:48 pm
Had a double palm slip from the last move on my last session... Proper gutting. Definitely not completely over when you get stood up!
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: James Malloch on February 12, 2020, 02:46:22 pm
Looks horrible! My exact anti-style haha!!

Is the knee pad to help with the falling back at c.8 seconds. Didn’t notice it was on until then end and tried to work out what it was on for :-)
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: Yoof on February 12, 2020, 02:54:07 pm
Haha, yea I do enjoy how awful it is :p

That's the one! Reckon it'd be much harder without the kneepad as your whole body wants to come off backwards when you let go with the left hand
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: Bonjoy on February 12, 2020, 04:12:02 pm
Nice work, looks good that.
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: Fiend on February 12, 2020, 04:27:20 pm
That looks an absolutely abysmal way to ruin a lovely and beautiful stand-up problem. Should have posted in the NNFN thread just for doing it.

Good name tho, not that it warrants one.
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: Mugabe251 on February 12, 2020, 06:53:24 pm
King of the king lines
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: bolehillbilly on February 12, 2020, 07:00:55 pm
Looks like a lot of frustrating fun, a bit like the stand.
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: moose on February 12, 2020, 08:09:40 pm
When Alexander of Macedonia was 33, he cried salt tears because there were no more worlds to conquer … Yoof is but a youth!
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: 36chambers on February 12, 2020, 10:00:49 pm
Good name tho, not that it warrants one.

:off:

Perhaps I'm just dull, but it's a pet hate of mine when people do sit starts and don't call it "<climb name> sit start".

Looks like a worthwhile addition though :)
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: monkey boy on February 13, 2020, 08:29:46 am
Whilst on this boulder Ned did a sitter to the right arete, looks like it uses some lovely slopers. Not sure of the name? Any ideas Jon? But think he said it clocks in around 7C.
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: Yoof on February 13, 2020, 11:31:05 am
Thanks all (?). It's a good bit of fun. Feind I'll post on NNFN now.


Perhaps I'm just dull, but it's a pet hate of mine when people do sit starts and don't call it "<climb name> sit start".


I often see this a a bit of a lost opportunity for some word association/play, provided the sitter adds a distinct crux. One example being Danny V's immaculate Main Vein Sit. I was pretty sad he didn't name it Vena Cava or similar because the line is so good it seems a shame just to append "sit" to the name.
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: Will Hunt on February 13, 2020, 11:38:34 am
Personally, I'm with 36C on this one. Opens up all sorts of avenues for eliminates and right/left-hand versions of things getting given new names which can become very confusing.

Obviously it's your problem, so it's up to you. Just my personal take.
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: Dexter on February 13, 2020, 11:40:11 am
Thanks all (?). It's a good bit of fun. Feind I'll post on NNFN now.


Perhaps I'm just dull, but it's a pet hate of mine when people do sit starts and don't call it "<climb name> sit start".


I often see this a a bit of a lost opportunity for some word association/play, provided the sitter adds a distinct crux. One example being Danny V's immaculate Main Vein Sit. I was pretty sad he didn't name it Vena Cava or similar because the line is so good it seems a shame just to append "sit" to the name.

Personally I think Vain Mane would work too
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: Nigel on February 13, 2020, 11:51:00 am
Managed to scrape my way up the sitter to egg arete today. Not heard of anyone doing this before(?), and enjoyed it enough to put 5 sessions in. Start sitting on the right side of the arete. Getting "the" hold is really knacky but not that hard.

https://vimeo.com/390971387

It has been done before by James Thornton, last year. We were just messing about so didn't think to record it. I would have thought it has been done before then as well, but once again its never been recorded so no harm in that, it seemed a decent wee thing.
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: Yoof on February 13, 2020, 11:56:53 am
Yeah there's definitely a murky line between <new name>, <climb name>,  and <climb name> sit . I'll not throw a paddy if people call it egg arete sit start.

Nice one then James!
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: Bradders on February 13, 2020, 01:17:12 pm
Good name tho, not that it warrants one.

:off:

Perhaps I'm just dull, but it's a pet hate of mine when people do sit starts and don't call it "<climb name> sit start".

Looks like a worthwhile addition though :)

In two minds on this, can see both sides.

Related though; it bothers me more when boulders get written up as a sit start only (I.e. given a name which doesn't include "sit" or "sit start"), when the stand would make a perfectly legitimate and excellent problem in it's own right.

The example that springs to mind is Ribtickler at Goyden. Totally classic lime 7C from standing in an obvious place, but written up only as the sitter. Admittedly the sit only adds three moves but still.

(may be sour grapes having done the stand but not the sit...)

Could easily put people off trying things just because the two aren't recognised as problems worth doing separately.
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: Will Hunt on February 13, 2020, 01:34:44 pm
 :agree:

The new Lakes bouldering guide is bad (depending on your point of view of course) for that. There's loads of things that look like great, logical low to mid 7s from a stand but they're sort of shoved away in the text as a consolation prize for the punters (me) who can't do the upper 7s sit starts. They're mentioned almost reluctantly. I'm not sure of the development history but it wouldn't surprise me if the stands were done first with harder sits added later in a lot of cases.

Can you imagine if the guidebook listed Ben's Groove Sit and then had a description flowing with praise and "7B if started off the block like the fucking punter you are" tagged onto the end.

While we're on the subject, sit starts to highballs and tall walls can fuck right off. The guidebook text actually lists a sit start to The Great Flake ffs!
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: SA Chris on February 13, 2020, 01:44:20 pm

Related though; it bothers me more when boulders get written up as a sit start only (I.e. given a name which doesn't include "sit" or "sit start"), when the stand would make a perfectly legitimate and excellent problem in it's own right.


Bothers me more when they are written up as an eliminate, when there is a perfectly good non-eliminate version that should be the main prob, then the eliminate written up as such with the harder grade.
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: Will Hunt on February 13, 2020, 01:49:22 pm

Related though; it bothers me more when boulders get written up as a sit start only (I.e. given a name which doesn't include "sit" or "sit start"), when the stand would make a perfectly legitimate and excellent problem in it's own right.


Bothers me more when they are written up as an eliminate, when there is a perfectly good non-eliminate version that should be the main prob, then the eliminate written up as such with the harder grade.

Can we have this stuff carved into two stone tablets and brought down from Stanage Pole by Johnny Brown on the next Calling day? Can we at least agree to have it printed onto an A0 sheet and pinned up in every climbing wall in the country?
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: monkey boy on February 13, 2020, 02:07:50 pm
Recent favourite of mine was to discover that Slapstick at Brimham is actually listed as a sit start! Pull off floor on jug and move to a jug :wall:

I guess with a lot of these problems, slapstick and Ribtickler included the first ascentionist must have pulled on from sit and so not thought about grade etc from a stand. I have to say I think a sit is obvious on RT and adds a little difficulty, plus it's lime.
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: shark on February 13, 2020, 02:13:48 pm
Bothers me more when they are written up as an eliminate, when there is a perfectly good non-eliminate version that should be the main prob, then the eliminate written up as such with the harder grade.

What about the Green Traverse?
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: Will Hunt on February 13, 2020, 02:18:18 pm
The Green Traverse at Stanage isn't even the best Green Traverse out there. Choss shit.
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: spidermonkey09 on February 13, 2020, 02:23:15 pm
Controversial opinion on a bouldering forum but all the best problems I've ever done have been stand starts. Where the sit adds good moves and there is an obvious hold to start off I'm all in favour, but its not uncommon for the the pull-on point to be unobvious or pad stack dependent which without exception makes for a shit problem in my view.... :fishing:
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: Yoof on February 13, 2020, 02:43:51 pm
Okay, now I feel massively psychic: https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-politics-51491662

Awkward sits usually make for not-great problems, but eliminates with stars in guidebooks are what get me really riled up.
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: Fiend on February 13, 2020, 03:15:48 pm
Some heartwarmingly spot on posts in the last several. Just cos bouldering is scrittling around on pebbles doesn't mean it should ignore quality, line, purpose, natural lines, aesthetics etc (not a dig at Yoof in particular, just the general concepts).
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: dunnyg on February 13, 2020, 03:41:38 pm
Quote
best problems I've ever done have been stand starts

Some boulder problems are pretty much the sits, usually low roofs though (DWR, Keel, DBS all quality problems).

Though these probably aren't the best "lines" I've done, but they are quality problems. I've gone off sit starts recently though.

Many sit starts are a bit shit, doesn't mean they aren't worth doing, but i'd rather do a classic 7A non sit than a 7A sit into a classic 6C for example.

Quality problem name, and it looks desperate. Good effort  :great:
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: spidermonkey09 on February 13, 2020, 03:50:17 pm
All those problems start on an obvious hold which is the key I think. Sit starts are great as long as they aren't done for the sake of it. I refer to the original VB Peak Bouldering talking about a possible sit to Pebble Arete at PLantation:

'...but really, have you nothing better to do?"

Agree this looks like a good addition to one of the best boulders on grit though!
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: JamieG on February 13, 2020, 03:51:04 pm
I wonder if I am in the minority but I have grown quite tired of punny problem names (especially long ones). Even though this is a good pun, it isn't a good name for a boulder problem in my opinion. And the problem itself does look pretty cool. In the long run I suspect people will just refer to it is the sit-start to egg arete anyway.
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: abarro81 on February 13, 2020, 03:54:54 pm
I love them. Basically the main reason to go to Griff's is to find new link-ups to use more lamb related puns
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: Fiend on February 13, 2020, 07:16:36 pm
In the long run I suspect people will just forget this travesty ever happened and assume the knee-level chalk was someone trying to dry the footholds.
:smartass:
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: teestub on February 13, 2020, 07:19:04 pm
Controversial opinion on a bouldering forum but all the best problems I've ever done have been stand starts.

This is because you are a route climber, and have no appreciation of the finer side of bouldering, and are essentially just looking for small trad routes  :lol:
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: Bradders on February 13, 2020, 08:04:09 pm
Controversial opinion on a bouldering forum but all the best problems I've ever done have been stand starts.

This is because you are a route climber, and have no appreciation of the finer side of bouldering, and are essentially just looking for small trad routes  :lol:

Yeah, there are actually loads, off the top of my head; Tourniquet, Little Women, Zoo York, Mossatrocity, Master Kush, Knight Rider, Sweet Dreams, Hispaniola, Jason's Roof, Sleepy Hollow Sit...I could go on. Majority of those incidentally have totally legit and worthwhile stand starts.

I have to say I think a sit is obvious on RT and adds a little difficulty, plus it's lime.


Totally agree, it's dead obvious. Just saying punters (me) shouldn't be excluded from trying a quality 7C.
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: 36chambers on February 13, 2020, 08:46:55 pm
I wonder if I am in the minority but I have grown quite tired of punny problem names (especially long ones).

Careful now, you might get puntered for being boring :P
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: spidermonkey09 on February 14, 2020, 08:19:38 am

This is because you are a route climber, and have no appreciation of the finer side of bouldering, and are essentially just looking for small trad routes  :lol:

Knew this would get a reaction! Hard to challenge though, I think that slightly longer problems with a distinct line/through a good feature are just more my sort of thing. I will think of the dirtiest lowball problem I've done with amazing moves and get back to you...
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: JamieG on February 14, 2020, 01:08:02 pm
I wonder if I am in the minority but I have grown quite tired of punny problem names (especially long ones).

Careful now, you might get puntered for being boring :P

Haha, yeah I'd probably deserve it too. Getting old and grumpy I think.  I just want problem names to be inspiring or at least informative. I don't even mind wordplay e.g. Careless Torque is great name for a problem especially a techy arete. But there is just something about tortured pun names that doesn't do it for me. Bouldering equivalent of dad jokes.
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: Bonjoy on February 14, 2020, 01:10:25 pm
Whilst on this boulder Ned did a sitter to the right arete, looks like it uses some lovely slopers. Not sure of the name? Any ideas Jon? But think he said it clocks in around 7C.

He did but I can't recall the details either.

As for giving sitters independent names, sometimes i do, sometimes I don't. Depends on if there is a great name/pun crying out to be used and/or on the stature of the sitter relative to the stander.
The most recent sitter I did was to a problem called Motion of Confidence and it just seemed like a waste of a good name not to call the sitter Unimpeachable, as it was timely and fitted the name theme.
Sometimes I think sitters of high quality get lost in guides when mentioned as footnotes, especially if they don't have an independent name. Adding a separate and distinct name at least gives a clue that  the FAer thought the climb was significant. Any time I call something Such and Such Sit Start you can assume the problem was fairly trivial.
Plus adding 'sit start' to a name can sometimes make the name long and annoying to say. For instance I chose 'Sitting in Oxford' over 'Living in Oxford Sit Start' for this reason.
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: cheque on February 14, 2020, 01:22:23 pm
I wonder if I am in the minority but I have grown quite tired of punny problem names

My only problem with them is when all the problems on a boulder or section of crag have names based around similar puns like at the Eagle Stone or Conies Dale- no one can ever remember which one is which, defeating the purpose of naming them in the first place.

(especially long ones).

 :agree: Names with more than about five syllables are pointless as they'll just get shortened anyway. Once you're into Clive Coolhead... or Problem Name (Problem Sub-name) territory then the pretentiometer goes into overdrive.
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: Bonjoy on February 14, 2020, 02:45:05 pm
I believe the accepted maximum syllable total is six. More than six is only allowable for ironic effect (Dad's Arete - A Belly Full of Brad Berries)
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: Yoof on February 14, 2020, 02:48:28 pm
I don't even mind wordplay e.g. Careless Torque is great name for a problem especially a techy arete. But there is just something about tortured pun names that doesn't do it for me. Bouldering equivalent of dad jokes.

Funny you mention Careless (shortened even though it's 3 syllables long). Almost went with "Egg's Torsion" for this with Careless as the inspiration, but decided it was a bit too serious for such a silly problem.

PS Dad jokes are great
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: JamieG on February 14, 2020, 03:07:20 pm
Haha, that actually might have been a better name in my opinion. Maybe I need to up my Dad joke game, I do have a young daughter now.

Anyway it seems like i'm in the minority and it's not like I can stop the naming. So i'll just groan to myself when the next bad pun comes along.

P.s. Dad's Arete - A Belly Full of Brad Berries is even worse!
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: Will Hunt on February 14, 2020, 03:28:19 pm
Vaguely related. Does anybody have a view on how misspelled words should be treated when putting new problems into guides?
Example - Albatross at Eldwick was originally spelled Albatros and that spelling has propagated. It could be done on purpose but I'm not sure.
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: Bonjoy on February 16, 2020, 01:39:00 pm
Hard to say, it might be misspelled for some subtle reason you haven't worked out. The only correction I've made in a guide was to a route which was effectively climbing a route traverse called Noah's Ark in reverse and had been (clearly misspelled)as Kra Shoan in the previous book.

To people against  independant names for sit starts I put this question. Would Burbage really be a better place if Submergence and Blind Drunk were instead called Arete Problem Sit Start and Remergence Sit Start?
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: Fiend on February 16, 2020, 01:44:43 pm
Yes. But anyway, those problems are not shit, right? What about something like Fuji Heavy Industries which looks complete dung and gets the more flamboyant name?
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: 36chambers on February 16, 2020, 01:58:38 pm
To people against  independant names for sit starts I put this question. Would Burbage really be a better place if Submergence and Blind Drunk were instead called Arete Problem Sit Start and Remergence Sit Start?

So is Blind Drunk the sit to Remergence, and Submergence the sit to Arete Problem?? Is that the right way round?
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: JamieG on February 16, 2020, 02:21:23 pm
Bonjoy, this is interesting. I'm all for naming sit-starts something different but preferably related to the original. Since as you suggest it makes a venue and the problem itself somehow more legit and inspiring. I think that is why I'm not a fan of over the top pun names, it actually takes away from the problem and I feel less inspired.
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: tomtom on February 16, 2020, 10:09:48 pm
Yes. But anyway, those problems are not shit, right? What about something like Fuji Heavy Industries which looks complete dung and gets the more flamboyant name?

Climbs really well though! The name is incongruous for BBg S...
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: steveri on February 17, 2020, 11:39:16 am
Does anybody have a view on how misspelled words should be treated when putting new problems into guides?
Good question, I mentioned a few misspelled song titles in proofs during the 90s Dorset boom. They went in the Rockfax like that but there could be a sound reason of course.
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: Bonjoy on February 17, 2020, 12:26:14 pm
To people against  independant names for sit starts I put this question. Would Burbage really be a better place if Submergence and Blind Drunk were instead called Arete Problem Sit Start and Remergence Sit Start?

So is Blind Drunk the sit to Remergence, and Submergence the sit to Arete Problem?? Is that the right way round?
Yes
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: Bonjoy on February 17, 2020, 12:49:38 pm
Bonjoy, this is interesting. I'm all for naming sit-starts something different but preferably related to the original. Since as you suggest it makes a venue and the problem itself somehow more legit and inspiring. I think that is why I'm not a fan of over the top pun names, it actually takes away from the problem and I feel less inspired.
I tend to agree up to a point. But it depends, puns blend into general wordplay, sometimes this sort of name sounds tortured and awful, sometimes it sounds nice as a name. Sometimes the pun is just too good to waste! Good puns tend to make good names bad puns don't.

 Chicken N Mushroom Scoop - A problem involving a chicken wing move up a scoop on 'the Mushroom boulder'. A pun that is too good not to use IMO.
 I Got the Boysen and the adjacent problem I Got the Remedy - These are aretes either side of an old problem called Fissure Boysen. They're quite crap problems and the perfect place to use out and out puns.
 Number 84 Bus - A climb sit starting on some edges and climbing up to a highball green topout, So I named it after a Sheffeild bus route that goes from Low Edges to High Green. A fairly tortured pun, but far too clever to waste!
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: Fiend on February 17, 2020, 02:11:01 pm
Bonjoy, along with El Mocho, should be absolutely forbidden from giving naming advice  :smartass: ;)
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: highrepute on February 17, 2020, 02:56:24 pm
Bonjoy, this is interesting. I'm all for naming sit-starts something different but preferably related to the original. Since as you suggest it makes a venue and the problem itself somehow more legit and inspiring. I think that is why I'm not a fan of over the top pun names, it actually takes away from the problem and I feel less inspired.
I tend to agree up to a point. But it depends, puns blend into general wordplay, sometimes this sort of name sounds tortured and awful, sometimes it sounds nice as a name. Sometimes the pun is just too good to waste! Good puns tend to make good names bad puns don't.

 Chicken N Mushroom Scoop - A problem involving a chicken wing move up a scoop on 'the Mushroom boulder'. A pun that is too good not to use IMO.
 I Got the Boysen and the adjacent problem I Got the Remedy - These are aretes either side of an old problem called Fissure Boysen. They're quite crap problems and the perfect place to use out and out puns.
 Number 84 Bus - A climb sit starting on some edges and climbing up to a highball green topout, So I named it after a Sheffeild bus route that goes from Low Edges to High Green. A fairly tortured pun, but far too clever to waste!

I called my right finish to birdsong birdsong RH because I didn't think I'd done enough original climbing, even though I think it is good, to warrant a new name and out of respect for the original line and first ascensionist. Now I'm worried the greater infringement was not coming up with a good pun!
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: Will Hunt on February 17, 2020, 03:24:54 pm
To people against  independant names for sit starts I put this question. Would Burbage really be a better place if Submergence and Blind Drunk were instead called Arete Problem Sit Start and Remergence Sit Start?

I'm not familiar with this bit of rock. I think there is a case to be made for coming up with different names but only when the sit creates a climb that is really distinct in character (and probably difficulty) from the stand. I.e. if you're going to give it a new name, it has to be that you're virtually creating a new problem, not just adding a couple of hard moves into the stand. A bit difficult to define exactly but I think people should instinctively know what is and what isn't worthy of a new name. Looking at the vid of the problem in the OP, I'd say (from my armchair) that this doesn't fit the bill. It's just a rancid pull on and a move or two into the stand (sorry, Yoof!).
Likewise with link-ups. When climbing problem A into problem B, if it's worth an entry in its own right as opposed to a note in the text, I normally go with some amalgamation of the two names. Coming up with a completely new name means that things get unwieldy pretty quickly.
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: Bonjoy on February 17, 2020, 04:01:10 pm

I called my right finish to birdsong birdsong RH because I didn't think I'd done enough original climbing, even though I think it is good, to warrant a new name and out of respect for the original line and first ascensionist. Now I'm worried the greater infringement was not coming up with a good pun!
:lol: Either is good with me.

Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: Bonjoy on February 17, 2020, 04:13:08 pm

Likewise with link-ups. When climbing problem A into problem B, if it's worth an entry in its own right as opposed to a note in the text, I normally go with some amalgamation of the two names. Coming up with a completely new name means that things get unwieldy pretty quickly.
Again, I think it’s six and two threes. On the one hand you can have a load of link-ups with no new climbing all with their own names, which seems a bit lavish. Or on the other hand you can have a load of dreary link names, Brown Kecks into Horsefly Lefthand Extension via Yo Momma – the name ends up being virtually a description it’s so longwinded. The latter is hardly conducive to free flowing post crag discussion. Neither is great. Like you say hybrid names are probably the least worst option, but the same thing can be achieved with a bit more 'flavour' if the hybrid is a wordplay rather than a straight cut-n-shut job of bits.
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: monkey boy on February 17, 2020, 04:54:16 pm
Did Ned's sitter to Egged On today, he called it Ova Arm. Lovely slopers!
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: Yoof on February 17, 2020, 05:32:51 pm

I think there is a case to be made for coming up with different names but only when the sit creates a climb that is really distinct in character (and probably difficulty) from the stand.


Character of the stand = subtle and footworky, character of the sit = awkward and slappy
6a-b+ != (massively knacky) ~7a+
Seems to fit those two criteria pretty well. Feel free not to repeat it, Will  ;) .

Monkey Boy, did you look at Egg Arete Sitter too? Also does the foothold on Ova Arm look a bit crumbly to you?
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: monkey boy on February 17, 2020, 06:24:13 pm
I didn't try egg sitter, I only just got back to the van before the rain hit.

Yes the left foot is a little hollow but it took my weight fine and it must have taken Ned's too so maybe it's ok. Not sure how well superglue would work on it as it's a tiny thin flake. Have you looked at that foothold Bonjoy? It's a great problem so be a shame for it to crumble.
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: Bonjoy on February 18, 2020, 10:27:57 am
I haven't been there since Ova Arm got done. Will give it a look though next time. Sometimes you can stabilise a flake by dropping fine sand down the back followed by superglue.
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: monkey boy on February 19, 2020, 06:41:56 pm
Cheers Jon that be great.
https://vimeo.com/392515010
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: Johnny Brown on February 19, 2020, 07:38:02 pm
Looks good. Weird how no one seems to bother with Eggs is Eggs just left.
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: monkey boy on February 19, 2020, 07:43:35 pm
Looks good. Weird how no one seems to bother with Eggs is Eggs just left.

I reckon it's cause you can't just pull hard and get to the top. It's a similar situation with Raw Deal. Wish the boulder was just a little bigger, such great rock.
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: Johnny Brown on February 24, 2020, 11:50:56 am
BB and I had a play on these on Saturday. Arete sitter is almost worthwhile, we both needed a few attempts, crux is contorting yourself into the start position. BB did Ova arm the right-hand version, I got close-ish to the left but it seems a bit like one of those problems where using the nice bonus hold is the crux.
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: monkey boy on February 24, 2020, 06:12:26 pm
Haha it does make it harder but it's worth it for that hold I think.
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: Fiend on March 08, 2020, 08:39:42 pm
Tried this - Eggs Checker - today. Mint connies for it. Think I got the right beta for a problem like this but couldn't quite "seal the deal"

(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Hf7NIiMUA78/XmVXS0LVt4I/AAAAAAAACtQ/hf-Sq8k1yncp-lTQzVMXclaytohRHqnFwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/PSX_20200308_164859.jpg)
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: tomtom on March 08, 2020, 08:53:15 pm
I look forward to this making an appearance in Doylo’s next insta collage :)
Title: Re: [Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+]
Post by: Yossarian on March 09, 2020, 11:08:12 pm
Tried this - Eggs Checker - today. Mint connies for it. Think I got the right beta for a problem like this but couldn't quite "seal the deal"

(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Hf7NIiMUA78/XmVXS0LVt4I/AAAAAAAACtQ/hf-Sq8k1yncp-lTQzVMXclaytohRHqnFwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/PSX_20200308_164859.jpg)

If that was the cover photo of a new and improved bouldering guidebook I would immediately buy multiple copies...
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