UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => new problems => Topic started by: Bonjoy on March 07, 2012, 10:41:42 am
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Broke in my newly straightened hands yesterday with a clutch of new randoms at Burbage North. Nothing cutting edge I’m afraid, file under worthwhile circuit fillers.
The first two are on the left, north facing wall of the Remergence block. Landing sloped but was ok with one large pad. Essentially they are two ways of climbing the same (innocuous looking) rib feature.
Waste Not 6c+ - Sit start at the base of the rib/ramp, climb direct to the break. The ledge is in for feet
Want Not 7a – Sit start lower down the slope with hands in thin break, climb direct via undercuts and ramp/rib to ledge on the arete
The other one is on the base of the crag on a set forward block 5m right of Three Blind Mice (the arete of which is climbed by an obscure VS Rhapsody in Green).
Only When I Crimp 6c+ - Sit start near the left arete in a long slopey pod above the lip. Gain and use a collection of poor crimps to rock back left into the pod. Finish up the arete.
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How close are they to this one: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=170553 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=170553)
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'Waste not' is the sitter to that route Adam - tricky and contorted but looks piss. 'Want not' uses most of the same holds but due to the fact that you are sitting from lower you are forced to climb rightwards to an obvious ledge/jug
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:agree:
Actually looks a half decent highball that thing, considering the slating it got on UKC when the guy reported it. Didn't have a spot or extra pad when I did the low starts or I'd have trieded finishing up said climb.
Got some poor quality vids I'll stick on pb.info at some point.