UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => new problems => Topic started by: willackers on January 15, 2012, 05:12:09 pm
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Direct start to Big Air.
Smear up the slab as high as possible then make an extremely large dyno for the jug on Big Air.
Really proud of this one, I've always looked at this when at the Plantation and wondered if it would go but I've never given it a go until yesterday. I've graded it compared to other dynos I have done in the UK and Fontainebleau, it's fucking miles and rather blind, Kim was stood on the boulder opposite and he was using the shadow of his arm to guide me towards the jug, brilliant.
I wish I would have got a video of it now, it's such a wild problem. Paul Mitchell was there taking photos so hopefully I'll be able to get my hands on them soon.
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I wish I would have got a video of it now,
You suck! Would like to have seen that. Nice one. A line of 5'6ers queuing up for repeats no doubt ;)
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nice one will.
obviously this would have been more impressive if you wasn't a 100 ft tall ;)
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nice one will.
obviously this would have been more impressive if you wasn't a 100 ft tall ;)
Cheers, it is fucking miles!, even for me.............
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i know i looked at it today, when i was lost. apparently the works is indoor. someone said you'd done it yesterday and i thought the crux for you would have been dropping down to the big pocket from the first move.
looks good with chalk on
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I wish you had got vid too. Get back there with the Outcrop Films team!
Effort.
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Good work Will! You should try that project wall right of Golden Days at Black Rocks (the one Nalle H tries on that video) and the Wimberry Dyno.
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Great effort champ!
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Nice one Will - saw the chalk on it yesterday and had wondered what that was about...
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Great stuff.
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As per usual Patrul has his finger on the pulse of Peak plodding and witnessed the launch, catch and snatch.
Mighty impressive - very happy to witness said ascentionists beaming smile and anti-gravity leaps....
Kim was claiming some dubious assistance and talk of a team ascent, though i suspect my presence on nearby crash pad, may well have tilted the balance in Will's favour .... however i feel the thing that really tipped the scales to success was the rather fine beard, as sported by one Stu Littlefair ... roll on the summer :)
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PS Will - my friend has a really awesome sequence of snaps he's at www.edgiles.com (http://www.edgiles.com)
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That's awesome! This should be in the news section.
I tried this briefly and fruitlessly years ago, and Pat spent a fair amount of time on it I think, instead settling for every other available line on the boulder.
Vaguely remember that someone of note (Jerry?) had declared it as impossible.
Congratulations :)
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I think Jerry was trying a very direct line to the pocket, which probably is impossible
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Good work Will! You should try that project wall right of Golden Days at Black Rocks (the one Nalle H tries on that video)....
Nalle wasn't far off when he was trying it last year IIRC - should go if you are tall.
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I have photos of Nalle hitting the hold on the Black Rocks dyno - well impressive.
Fine effort Will. That line has seen some big talents off in the past.
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Cheers everyone, I didn't realise it had seen so much attention before, I think it's been waiting for someone that little bit taller :P
Is this Black Rocks project worth a look then?, what are the holds like that you're going from and to?, I've seen the video but it's hard to tell what the holds are like. And is it over once you've caught the hold?, looks quite high :ohmy:
Cheers.
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It's certainly a classy line, I'd go as far as saying it's worthy of the LGP tag. Same height as Angel's Share etc. Perfectly flat earth landing. Good undercut flake and poor feet to good slot in break. From the break to the top looks hard but definitely a goer, I don't think many would begrudge you practicing that bit on a rope and/or placing gear if any fits.
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Nice one Will :2thumbsup:
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Cheers John, I'm tempted to give The Ace a miss this Saturday and head up to Black Rocks, anyone keen? :bounce:
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id come and spectate/fall off mantel onto the velvet silence slab repeatedly, but after witnessing black rocks at the weekend i fear for my health. good effort on CUFA :)
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Be reet, all that time at Dumby, I dare you’ll be able to handle the local baboonary. If the proj doesn’t seem like a goer you can always get on some of Blacks Rocks’ many other leaping routes (I’m not trying to imply you’re a one trick pony here honest) – The Bounder, Caught Smiling, Devil in the Detail, Bad Motor Finger, Day at the Proms, DynoMight, Small Things…
I'd usually be keen for BR but have a proj elsewhere I want to get on.
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PS Will - my friend has a really awesome sequence of snaps he's at www.edgiles.com (http://www.edgiles.com)
Where exactly? Nothing on that site looks climberish - even the West Side Story bit refers to the West Bank.
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I think he meant the guy's contact details are on the site not the pics of prob.
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Ah. cocks.
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Well done Will. Sounds truly impressive and an obvious LGP. Go repeat for a vid please.
Have you moved Peakward now as you seem to be climbing there more than in the shire?
:beer2:
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It was awesome to watch! The landing is terrible and the swing was huge. Nice one.....
NEWSFLASH. Dave Gater has been recovering from major surgery to his shoulder (totally re-stitched his tendons to a hook screwed into his shoulder) and is due more in February. He hasn't been able to weight his arm for months.
However, he was so inspired (having done Big Air about 10 years ago) about this that he went to Stange today. I just spoke to him and he did this direct start SECOND GO and apparently "fluffed the flash"! Didn't say anything about grade. He has footage which I'll try and get from him. This is an unbelievable achievement as he has had serious doubts about whether he could climb in the next year/ever. This is the first climbing he has done since May! Blimey
Nice one Will for the FA and Dave for the quick repeat! Quality piece of rock.
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Crikey, effort!!
Not the first thing I'd think to try if my arm was hanging off a hook! :o
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That's mental!
Good effort Dave, I reckon you should get to Wimberry.
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:o That's barking.
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jawdropping.
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two very impressive ascents. i managed to get some footage of dave so im sure he'll post it up when he gets his camera charged up.
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Apparently he did it above two flimsy pads which is completely insane, I was really going for it above loads of mats and I thought it was completely nails, so to rock up with two pads and get this second go is a great effort. What a hero, nice one Dave :bow:
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Great effort. Rupert's footage from Dave's camera is on my Flickr (see signature), but I can't get it to embed here for some reason.
He used 4 "real" pads and a little one.
Good effort on the terrace Ru!
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Great footage
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wowsers!
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Awesome! :bounce:
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Apparently he did it above two flimsy pads
He used 4 "real" pads and a little one.
I heard he did it above some used tea bags covered in a beach towel. Hero!
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1 tea bag, and it was a tea towel
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Makes it look like it's a tiny hop when it's obviously miles. Having seen his previous on massive dynos that's unsurprising but doing it with the injury is just, well, er....
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shit me.
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Good skills to both of you. :clap2: :bow:
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Good effort Dave - that is ridiculous! Wish I could have got out of work to watch that one. Bet you are glad you decided at the last minute to pop up to Stanage now.
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Wowsers - notice how he kicks off with his right foot half way thru the dyno. Massiiiiive.
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Wowsers - notice how he kicks off with his right foot half way thru the dyno. Massiiiiive.
You should be all over that Tom!
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That's so ridiculous, every time I watch it I think 'he's not going to jump from there, he needs to get higher' then he just flies!
Chapeau to you both.
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Apparently he did it above two flimsy pads
He used 4 "real" pads and a little one.
I heard he did it above some used tea bags covered in a beach towel. Hero!
Gobsmacking move ........ And with a dodgy shoulder too :bow:
Made me also think about Martin Veale's FA of Big Air in the pre-mat days and how big his balls must have been .......
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Wowsers
He can really really jump. That's one hell of a lot of power through those pins :strongbench: well impressed
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Puts into perspective the dynos which he finds hard and his fas/repeats on the continent
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Made me also think about Martin Veale's FA of Big Air in the pre-mat days and how big his balls must have been .......
I remember some things about that from the mags at the time. He first graded it E8 6c. Basher Atkinson later came along and saw the chalk on the pocket. He didn't realise it was a huge jump, so dropped across the gap, feet on one side, habds on the boulder, and was stuck like that. The famous photo of martin on the FA was actually when they went back later for pics. That time he missed the pocket and tooh the tumble. Ouch! Is all that true?
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I know Martin took the fall on the attempted repeat and back then the landing was considerably worse (big block has since been moved).
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Fuck me you dont wanna drop that catch, you would be near the buckstone when you touched down.
I top roped Big Air around '88 and it felt fairly easy, have a go i though, I then stood on the boulder psyching for about an hour, getting ready and hunkering down for the jump and then jibbing at the last moment and my opinion on how easy it felt on a toppy slowly evaporated. Just to weird and scary at the time
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Good effort on this one Will. Nice jump, with your ability you should def get to the tank project! I think I can say that would be a significant ascent as far as dynes go!
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I know Martin took the fall on the attempted repeat and back then the landing was considerably worse (big block has since been moved).
Weren't there some photos of his feet looking pretty fooked as a result of it?
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In the OTE article wasn't the story that on one attempt he missed the pocket, but managed to spin around and catch the lip of the boulder he'd jumped from? Bonkers!
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There are some comments on another certain forum [whose name shall not be mentioned] against the iconic photo of Martin leaping across the void.
Thanks for your comment. It's a long time ago now but, yes, on one of the attempts he did 'stuff' it up, missed the pocket and fell into the gully but with an amazing agility he pushed himself off the gully walls going down from side to side and emerging unhurt. One of the most impressive things I've ever seen. He then had another go and did it straight away but I can't remember exactly which go this particular photo came from.
So whom ever S11 is, took that photo http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=81792 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=81792)
Figgin good effort on the direct - both of you, made to look easy(ish) :bow:
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Just dragged out that copy of OTE and the photographer was Ian Smith .......
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Some true classic shots in Ian's gallery there (including that one).
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:agree:
The guy soloing The Knock with a mullet is my new hero.
Well done you dyno beasts too.
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:agree:
The guy soloing The Knock with a mullet is my new hero.
Didn't even need to look to know it would be Shaun (Hutson) - legend!
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:agree:
The guy soloing The Knock with a mullet is my new hero.
You'd probably like some of the pictures in...
(http://95.130.96.60/ProductImages/fullsize/CG_Froggatt.jpg)
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:agree:
The guy soloing The Knock with a mullet is my new hero.
You'd probably like some of the pictures in...
(http://95.130.96.60/ProductImages/fullsize/CG_Froggatt.jpg)
Is that the one with Mark leach on screaming dream in some (even by 80's standards) mental leggings?
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Yes, that's a great pic as well.
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Can't believe some of you don't own the 1991 froggatt guide. That and the '89 stanage guide are pretty much my bible and quran.
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First of all a big congrats to Will on Coming Up For Air, a great effort...The Mental Block is the block that just keeps on giving. For the sake of historical context, this year is the Silver Jubilee of Big Air - born 1987! Ian Smith's photo was of the 2nd ascent, just for the pictures. The fall was taken after missing the pocket...previously I never ever missed the pocket, not even on the first top rope session. On the photo occasion, in mid-air I knew I was going to miss the pocket, so when my hands slapped the rock just below, I pushed off, span round in mid-flight & managed somehow to catch the edge of the starting block with both hands...that really made my hands smart! But I knew that I didn't want to land in the chasm on the rocks below (no pads in those days & a worse landing) The moral of this story is 'Don't show off just for a picture'. I've still never seen anyone else do Big Air but would love to... the closest I got was once seeing someone's hand in the big pocket, it was Mike Weeks stood on his tiptoes at full stretch but I think he was too stretched to pull. So glad it's now considered such a classic & on so many peoples to-do lists...