UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => new problems => Topic started by: willackers on December 18, 2011, 06:29:13 pm
-
Percy Bishton spied a new problem up in the gully to the right of Roof Route at Rivelin edge today and kindly let us all have a play.
It's a great little problem and the landing is good with a couple of pads.
Start with a good hold for your RH and a small crimp for the LH, with your LF in a pocket in a small break pull on and get a high RF on the obvious foot hold, from there you can move your LH into a good undercut, take the undercut as a thumb sprag and the bring your RH into the same hold as a thumb sprag as well, from this position it is possible (for the tall, not Rob Napier) to reach up with the LH to a really poor slopey two finger edge, sort out your feet then pop for a good jug in the break followed by a high but easy top out.
I hope that makes sense, the double thumb sprag move is really cool and the problem climbs really well, it felt hard 7c for me but I reckon it could be a tad harder for shorties.
Well worth checking out if you're up at Rivelin Edge, cheers to Percy for showing us the line :great:
-
This the wall right of Steph? Think I might have tried this ages ago. Good work!
-
I bet that's the last time percy lets you "play" on anything :)
Sounds good, pics?
-
This the wall right of Steph? Think I might have tried this ages ago. Good work!
Yeah, that's the one.
I'm afraid I didn't get any pics.
-
looked at this literally two weeks ago. looked very hard, nice one will :great: