UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => new problems => Topic started by: r-man on November 29, 2011, 12:19:31 am
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Traversing shenanigans from earlier this month. Really happy with this, I've been trying it on and off for a couple of years, and it's been one of those fall-off-the-last-move jobs for some time. Crazy moves. Also, a couple of new things on the same block from Dawid. (Add all these together and the full traverse of the lip is clearly possible.)
To quote a certain Italian scholar: YYFY!
Drop Your Weapons, 7C - start matched on the groove sidepull. Gain the arete sloper and drop (your weapons) to the lip. Follow this to finish up the 7A.
Left Turn & Right Turn, 7B+ - start matched on the slanting hold. Head left or right and top out.
Drop Your Weapons, 7C and The Turns, 7B+ - Curbar (http://vimeo.com/32814248)
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Brilliant - I fucking love that boulder
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Drop Your Weapons, 7C - start matched on the groove sidepull. Gain the arete sloper and drop (your weapons) to the lip. Follow this to finish up the 7A.
Went and did this today, good fun especially the drop down move.
(Add all these together and the full traverse of the lip is clearly possible.)
Did this from the hanging start of the middle 7a going all the way out right (prob 7cish from here) and had one go on the full link and got to the starting crimp on Dawids problem but was out of beans by then, will obv go and has some fun lip shuffling on it although does get quite close to the ground, and I aint big!
nice one boys.
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Blimey, you guys have wrung the most out of that boulder for sure...wouldn't like to be the one to draw the lines on the photo to explain the multitude of possibilities up and across there!
The full lip traverse would indeed be pretty serious, good to see there's still potential out there on such an obvious boulder in a prime location.
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Went and did this today, good fun especially the drop down move.
Good stuff! Good effort on getting that far with the link as well. Shame it gets close to the ground on the final moves, but if big Dawid can squeeze in there and still have room to fart...
good to see there's still potential out there on such an obvious boulder in a prime location.
As well as the lip trav, there are two other linkups to be done. Don't think the obvious Supersize Me into Le Musee link has yet been climbed (possibly not much harder than Supersize Me, as you can skip the swing crux with good beta?).
Then there's Supersize Me into El Mocho's link from the lip jug, probably the hardest possibility.
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Did this from the hanging start of the middle 7a going all the way out right (prob 7cish from here)
It's an obvious problem in its own right - feel like giving it a name? Have provisionally added to pb.info as BB's link (just as an alternative to Ben's Traverse).
http://peakbouldering.info/problems/3715 (http://peakbouldering.info/problems/3715)
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It's an obvious problem in its own right - feel like giving it a name?
Get some!
Peacrab shuffle?
Lemon cheasecake/wren?
......
I think BBs trav could do.
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Funny Turn?
U Turn?
Drop your soap?
What a Weapon?
My Best Friend the Arctic Turn?
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Reach for the skies?
As in, Drop Your Weapons and .....
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Drop your apple at the last minute after having successfully bobbed for it?
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Bad Apple
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Drop your shopping?
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........... Trousers?
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Drop your guts?
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The Million Pound Drop?
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Pear Drop/B-crab Shuffle
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Drop the Pilot?
Arm a Trading?
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Hardsports
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Amnesty Extension
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Another addition to the multitude of possibilities on the boulder.
Surely there will be more to come.
Any bets on how many lines can be done there ?
Detox F8a (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hjY6jtIm7vI#ws)
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8 more? :lol:
Did Detox the other day, thought it was good and a little harder than Huffys.
When I got my left hand out to the rib where he then gets his left toe by his hand I just put my right heel in the jug of bad lip just below my RH and went up with my RH to a small crimp, LF on the lip then the top.
My right hamstring hurts now though!!
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Excellent - that high toehook method for Huffy's looks like it should make things easier, the old method (match lip with feet low in the roof, then jump for jug) was easy to fluff. Will have to try it next time I'm there.
So which is the hardest finish to Huffy's, Le Musee or Detox?