UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: duncan on July 24, 2014, 11:23:38 am
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Source (http://www.mikehuttonphotography.com/section365194_290274.html)
Impressive.
I wonder if he's training for something...
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:bow: Mental, be good to see a list of routes and logisitics.
I can't imagine the grit felt 100% jackson yesterday but there must have been something in the air as Sophie Whyte and Lindy Smith completed the Staffordshire Nose Challenge as well! :beer2:
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I can't imagine the grit felt 100% jackson yesterday but there must have been something in the air as Sophie Whyte and Lindy Smith completed the Staffordshire Nose Challenge as well! :beer2:
BEASTS!
Well done to Pete too.
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Petes Ticklist (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=69074)
Pinhead Moonstomp E1 5b Curbar
Hercules E1 5a Curbar
Scroach E2 5c Curbar
Right Eliminate E3 5c Curbar
Left Eliminate E1 5c Curbar
Thirst for Glory E1 5b Curbar
Pretty Face E1 5b Curbar
Plaything E2 5c Curbar
L'Horla E1 5b Curbar
Elder Crack E2 5b Curbar
Done Years Ago E3 6b Curbar
Canoe E2 5c Curbar
Finger Distance E3 6b Curbar
Kayak E1 5b Curbar
Rapid E1 5c Curbar
Lepton Original E3 6b Curbar
Vain E3 5b Curbar
Zebedee E2 5b Curbar
Betwixt E1 5a Curbar
The Wall E1 6a Curbar
Top Secret E1 5c Curbar
Lamebrain E1 5b Curbar
The Scoop E2 5b Curbar
Diddlum Wall Direct E1 5b Curbar
Fidget E2 6b Curbar
Gone To Pot E1 5c Curbar
Pot E2 6a Curbar
The Mask E1 6a Curbar
White Noise F.M. E2 6a Curbar
Humdrum E1 5a Curbar
One Up Again E1 5c Curbar
Afterbirth E1 5c Curbar
Birthday Groove E1 5c Curbar
The Unreachable Star E3 6a Curbar
Hidden Pleasures E3 6a Curbar
John's Arete E1 5c Curbar
Rat Scabies E3 6a Curbar
Camel Ticks E3 6b Curbar
Black Nix Wall E1 5c Curbar
Beach Nut E1 5c Froggatt
Stiff Cheese E2 5c Froggatt
Big Crack E2 5b Froggatt
Brown's Eliminate E2 5b Froggatt
Synopsis E2 5c Froggatt
Great Slab E3 5b Froggatt
Heartless Hare E5 5c Froggatt
Downhill Racer E4 6a Froggatt
Long John's Slab E3 5c Froggatt
Nanoq Slab E2 5b Froggatt
Four Pebble Slab E3 5c Froggatt
Three Pebble Slab E1 5a Froggatt
Two-sided Triangle E1 5b Froggatt
Motorcade E1 5a Froggatt
Ratbag E2 5b Froggatt
Cave Crack E2 5c Froggatt
Brightside E2 5c Froggatt
Sundowner E2 5a Froggatt
Parrallel Piped E3 5c Froggatt
Scarper's Triangle E1 5b Froggatt
Strapiombo E1 5b Froggatt
Strapiombante E1 5b Froggatt
Regent Street E2 5c Millstone
Embankment 4 E1 5b Millstone
Embankment 3 E1 5b Millstone
Billingsgate E1 5b Millstone
Windrete E2 5c Millstone
Only Just E1 5a Millstone
Dexterity E1 5b Millstone
February Fox E2 5b Millstone
Gates of Mordor E3 5c Millstone
Satan's Slit E1 5b Millstone
Millwheel Wall E1 5b Burbage South
Zeus E2 5b Burbage South
Goliath E5 6a Burbage South
Above & Beyond E4 6b Burbage South
Pebble Mill E5 6b Burbage South
Knick Knack Paddywhack E2 6b Burbage South
The Knack E1 5c Burbage South
Nosferatu E6 6b Burbage South
Sorb E2 5c Burbage South
Moviestar E1 5b Burbage South
Captain Sensible E1 5b Burbage South
The Knock E4 5c Burbage South
Boggart Left-hand E3 6a Burbage South
Midge E2 6a Burbage South
Gnat E1 5c Burbage South
The Penultimate E1 5b Burbage North
The Fin E1 5b Burbage North
Short Fat Bastard E1 5b Burbage North
Long Tall Sally E1 5b Burbage North
The Screamer E1 5c Burbage North
The Irrepressible Urge E1 5b Burbage North
The Edging Machine E1 5b Burbage North
Slide Away E1 5a Burbage North
Bulletproof E1 6a Burbage North
The Rainmaker E1 5a Burbage North
Windjammer E1 5b Burbage North
King's Return E2 5b Burbage North
High Flyer E3 6a Burbage North
The Sentinel E2 5c Burbage North
Now or Never E1 5a Burbage North
Evening Wall E1 5b Burbage North
Twilight Wall E2 5c Burbage North
All Star's Goal E1 6a Burbage North
Monk On E1 5b Burbage North
Banana Finger E1 6a Burbage North
Route 3.5 E1 6a Burbage North
Mental Peace E2 5c Stanage
Big Chris E1 5b Stanage
Jersey Boys E1 5a Stanage
Gulliver's Travels E1 5b Stanage
War Zone E1 6a Stanage
Tip Off Right E2 5c Stanage
The Tippler E1 5b Stanage
The Dangler E2 5c Stanage
The Unprintable E1 5b Stanage
Kirkus' Corner E1 5b Stanage
Flying Buttress Direct E1 5b Stanage
Goodbye Toulouse E1 5b Stanage
Little Sarah E1 5b Stanage
Armchair Buccaneer E1 5b Stanage
Straightsville E2 5b Stanage
Yosemite Wall E2 5b Stanage
Via Dexter E1 5c Stanage
Topaz Copout E1 5b Stanage
Well Right E2 5c Stanage
Twintrin E1 5c Stanage
Easter Rib E1 5b Stanage
Ice Boat E1 5c Stanage
Coconut Ice E2 5b Stanage
Hybrid E1 5b Stanage
Wuthering E2 5b Stanage
Bobsnob E1 5a Stanage
Exit Stage Left E1 5b Stanage
Morrison's Redoubt E1 5b Stanage
Saliva E1 5b Stanage
Another Game of Bowls E1 5b Stanage
The Old Dragon E2 5b Stanage
Keep Pedalling E1 5b Stanage
Pedlar's Rib E1 5c Stanage
Spearing the Bearded Clam E3 5c Stanage
5.9 Finish E1 5b Stanage
On a Wing and a Prayer E1 5c Stanage
Curving Buttress E2 5b Stanage
Curving Chimney Left Arete E2 5b Stanage
Monday Blue E2 5b Stanage
Left Unconquerable E1 5b Stanage
Namenlos E1 5a Stanage
New Balls Please E1 5b Stanage
Millsom's Minion E1 5b Stanage
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Wow!
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If I manage those in my lifetime I'll be delighted.
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Banana Finger E1, yes I know Ed Ward Whymper Mallory graded it E1, but really does anyone consider it a route now?
There also seem to be quite a few error's in the list unless my memory is playing up, Isn't the E1 @ Stanage Gullible's travels (or is that the E2 variant to the left?) High Flyer @ Burbage North 6a, more like 5b, Monk On should be about H/VS 5a, War Zone if it's the one to the right of Crack & Corner never E1 although probably 6a, Kyak E1 fuck off. Although I see the source is Cocktalk so perhaps not to be regarded as a good provenance.
Note in no way diminishing the effort or scale of the achievement, both of which are beyond my abilities.
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So these things only count if people can read your mind to what the grade should be. Whats your best extreme solo day?
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Pete told me he soloed 150 just in case 50 of them got downgraded. He didn't want to take any chances ;-)
We're trying to make a list of the Eastern Grit Brown & Whillans at the moment and that's a bloody nightmare trying to not make errors on information. I guess that's why we're measly climbers and not lawyers!
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I've don 'the ton' on Stanage twice and the half century on Burbage North a good few times, the number of 'Es' probably 20-25 on Stanage and 15 or so On Burbage N. Grades should be taken at their current accepted standard, if some one were to ground up The Promise would this be accepted as an E10 tick?
I';m surprised that Pete didn't do Via Media at Stanage, a very steady tick at E1/2, Wall End Slab Direct, Pure White & Deadly
As I said I'm not seeking to diminish the scale of the achievement, but imagine the derison some newbie would get if they stated that they'd on sight soloed Banana Finger at E1, don't you think he'd be told that it is V1 or 5a or what ever?
As for the quip about the down grade, it's well known if I were ever let loose on a guide there's be three bouldering grades, easy 4+ and 5 and all routes would be XS 5c.
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So out of 150 routes you've managed to quibble with six, out of which:
Banana Finger - no-one considers it E1 because they do it with pads, still E1 to solo and I presume Pete was soloing given he was soloing.
Gullible's Travels - yes that's the name and it's still E1 5b.
High Flyer - yes 5b but it's still E2 and still an extreme solo then.
Monk On - no idea maybe you are right.
War Zone - no idea maybe you are right.
Kayak - E2 or E2, dunno how tall Pete is maybe he can do the E1 version, either way it's another extreme solo.
So it's possible there is some quibble about the E-suitability of errr 2 of the routes. :ras:
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Could the mods do a thread split? Just take all of Sloper's posts here and chuck 'em in the logpile, please.
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No, don't log pile! I need to show Pete this thread so he can get his lazy arse into gear and go and complete his 150 properly. Banana Finger.... outrageous! He probably stood on multiple pads stacked on top of each other as well.
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Back around. :wave:
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So....
Banana Finger - dodgy for sure: its a lowball boulder problem but as trad its VS/HVS 6a ish (HS 5b if you possess HH fleece trousers).
Monk On - full value E1 onsight...off-balance scary Sloper '5a' in sandbag mode (I'd be much happier on a Kayak solo)
War Zone - E1 6a compared to the much softer touch E1 rib climbs further left.
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So out of 150 routes you've managed to quibble with six, out of which:
Banana Finger - no-one considers it E1 because they do it with pads, still E1 to solo and I presume Pete was soloing given he was soloing.
Gullible's Travels - yes that's the name and it's still E1 5b.
High Flyer - yes 5b but it's still E2 and still an extreme solo then.
Monk On - no idea maybe you are right.
War Zone - no idea maybe you are right.
Kayak - E2 or E2, dunno how tall Pete is maybe he can do the E1 version, either way it's another extreme solo.
So it's possible there is some quibble about the E-suitability of errr 2 of the routes. :ras:
Even if they get E0, it's still an Extreme :)