UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: abarro81 on December 03, 2007, 08:19:15 pm
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http://climbing.com/news/hotflashes/patxisbestweek/
not bad for a week.. :bow:
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Beast!
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Awesome stuff.
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As it says, there 8c flash was the FA of someone's long term project. Just how fucking annoying would that be?
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And now a possible 8c+ onsight.....
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8c+ onsight...and it's a first ascent! :o
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Piccies http://www.patxiusobiaga.net/content/view/363/16/lang,es/
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Holy Crepes! :bow:
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Very impressive indeed (and wearing jeans too...)
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he's taking sport climbing to new level. Its been a while since you could say someone is the best climber in the world. Think its safe to say Patxi is just that (at sport climbing anyway)
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This is truely amazing. Patxi has taken the physical limits of climbing to a whole new level :jaw: He's only 27 as well, his best years are ahead :jaw: :jaw:
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This is truely amazing. Patxi has taken the physical limits of climbing to a whole new level
Nah. He's just got a lot of time on his hands ;)
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Wel, yeah, there's that as well..
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I know little of this Paxo man, but I do know that when Hocking was competing against him a few years back on plastic, Hocking was obsessed with the definition, quality and firmness of Paxos' locking muscle (below and behind [anterior?] to the bicep).
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[anterior?]
Obviously I meant posterior, but whatever, I'm sure it's lovely.
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According to his scorecard on 8a.nu, hes just done another 9a. So whos gonna put up the cash to get him over to the UK to try something something hard...
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I would love to see him try chilam balam. imagine it really is 9b(+?)
BD
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I like to see him on something really hard, say, solid H8+.
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8c+ onsight is fucking incredible really. The way that he's knocking over 9a and 9a+ routes would suggest that if he spent a bit of time on something then he could surely push the standard up a grade or two which would also be great to see. However some pretty good climbers in the past have onsighted quite near (two or three grades) to their limit and the hardest routes they have done have been dispatched pretty quickly. It'll be interesting to see if Mr Uzxtoigtbeastxtzioxtzia is in this mould or if he just can't be bothered to spend days on a route when there's so much he can nail in a couple of tries. Fucking scary either way. :bow:
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One small question.
What it someone comes along, works this 8c+ route, find an easier sequence - this could be quite likely that Paxtio didn't get the best sequence while onsighting FAing it...
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hadn't someone already worked a sequence but not r/p it hence the project grade of 8c+.
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hadn't someone already worked a sequence but not r/p it hence the project grade of 8c+.
Exactly.
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hadn't someone already worked a sequence but not r/p it hence the project grade of 8c+.
Exactly.
It would have to have been a very readable sequence to hit it first time wouldn't it? Could be that he didn't use the 8c+ sequence but a harder one?
(Perhaps to have hit the 8c+ sequence first go beta would be required which would detract ever-so-slightly from the onsight, but thats not something I care about, its amazing to be climbing at this level!!!)
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Ah okay, didn't know it had been given a project grade already.