UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: a dense loner on December 19, 2004, 07:41:20 pm
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few projects were cleaned up today.
straight up thro lowrider (stanage end)(7c?). lowrider into chip shop brawl (8a?). both courtesy of bransbubble.
something at rowtor(7b?). courtesy of bonos joyos
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if lowrider is 7c+, then how can the direct through (must be blantantly harder) be easier? kwestion
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answer.
lowrider is a left to right traverse. the direct is going straight up thro the middle of the traverse. its not a 'direct' on lowrider rather a 'direct' up prob thro it :? but your concerns are grounded. the next one is to start as for lowrider into the 'direct', even the stamina fest that is branston was too tired for this :crazy:
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good effort by the yoof branston. Whats this thing at rowter by some Mexican Chap with a bee fixation then?
Also any names given to new problems. Could have fun with low rider chip shop brawl re-arrangements
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cheers denise i know what the driect is, seen ian mcshane on it. still looks crazyily harder than easyrider though.
maybe this block could be the new spot for font-style linkups. I suggest lowrider into the direct, traverse left to downclimb/reverse lowrider into the wierd bridging groove behind it, traver left finish up chipshop?
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harry potter truly is a wizard. although i heard he trav'ed into direct........
pretty ill watching jon 'dopejoy' lovejoy icing the rowtor ting. Sam Westaker nipped at heels for 2nd ascent and commented "every move is a classic".
i now need to find unclimbed rock and produce My Orange...
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Direct through Lowrider is R.I.P. O.D.B. - 7c, likely to be very conditions dependent. Name was a compromise reached from Lovejoy's Easyrider and Ben's Chip shop buddy:roll: I bagged the second ascent. Yeah it's a fair bit harder than lowrider but not as tiring.
The big link is clearly the one to go for - Chip shop Bransby. A fine line and probably worth 8a.
Also minor news from last week - Gaz Parry bagged the 4th? ascent of Help the young sit-down. His third visit and he reckoned solid 8a. He then started showing worrying interest in eliminating the start block, so I did it for him, which defo makes for an 8a. And even without that Bransby reckons its harder than Full power, so who am I to argue - get rewriting those graded lists fools!
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Yeah it's a fair bit harder than lowrider but not as tiring.
has lowrider gone down to less than 7c then?
effort to all concerned. what nature-joy's rowtor thing then>?
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Yeah it's a fair bit harder than lowrider but not as tiring.
has lowrider gone down to less than 7c then?
BUT NOT AS TIRING.
Jeez, these are font grades not Uk tech you know?
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so hang on, HARDER but lower grade is what yo' sayin right? hows that work?
if you meant it has harder move/s but overall its easier cops its shorter then fair enough, but that int what you said, you just said it was harder, which implies its harder.
some people :roll: :wink:
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it has harder moves but overall its easier cos its shorter
Nice one Einstein. You got there in the end.
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right, so when you said "harder" you actually meant to say "easier". I'll have to brush up my telepathic skills over the xmas break.
so when you said that chav's arete sitter sans block is harder..... :?
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Hey this is bouldering - it's the moves that count, right? So if I say harder, its obvious I mean the hardest move is harder.
Lowrider isn't harder in a bouldering sense, just more tiring, like a route see? Its a 7b up move preceded by 5m of ab-sapping sideways shuffling. Not what I call harder, but worth a bigger number all the same. Perhaps a french sport grade would make it clearer?
Can't believe you of all people, would need this explaining...
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Not what I call harder,...
think you're on your own there love!
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(http://www.replica-planet.com/Burberry_Inspired-handbag.jpg)
Ooooh, a grading debate no less, how cute!
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The new Rowtor thing is a highball, up easy arete, cross roof by some cunning guppy work and toe hooks, then up hard tenuous groove. Three star 7b, called My Apple. Pics to follow. The pimp got some good footage of both ascents, i'll see if he's up for posting them on.
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Nice, did the acsent require bit of marigolds stuck to your hands with superglue?
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Thankfully not on this occasion. The maggy patches are for big slopers only.
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hi jonboy, did Branby finish up Chip Shop Brawl, or my new route, Chip Shop Brawl, which takes the hanging arete right of Chip Shop Brawl? Now that would be a link. Chip Shop Brawl into Chip Shop Brawl.
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Chip Shop Brawl into Chip Shop Brawl.
It could be like a circular thing, up CSB, down CSB, along the little bit extra of ben's LR extension into CSB, up that again, down CSB again and so on until you got dizzy. Oh, and you'd have to start it with LR of course. Not sure where the direct through LR would fit though but maybe you could link that into High Flyer and go down that and up one of the CSBs and do some figure 8 thing...
...shit, now *I* am dizzy :crazy: :freak:
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hi jonboy, did Branby finish up Chip Shop Brawl, or my new route, Chip Shop Brawl....?
Chip Shop Brawl.
I'm pretty sure it was the leftward topout.
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The new Rowtor thing is a highball, up easy arete, cross roof by some cunning guppy work and toe hooks, then up hard tenuous groove. Three star 7b, called My Apple.
Already superseded by the B-rans bubble's direct start. He says 7c. However, he did make it look hard. Considering he did the chip shop link without breaking sweat, I would say much harder.
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Wow! How and where? There's nay grips. Was it strainght out from the block under the roof or rightwards from block via crack to ancient chipped jug?Looked at both possibilities but thought they both looked 8a minimum :shock: . Or summat totally diffrent? BTW did you repeat My Apple, what did ye reckon?
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Also on the new probs front, saw the elusive Mick Adams doing a new prob on the buttress right of Sole Power last week. And just got a text message from the Lilly Mule asking if the wall right of Brad's Rib at Stanton has been done, which I guess means he's done it.
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Wow! How and where? There's nay grips. Was it strainght out from the block under the roof
yep.
but thought they both looked 8a minimum
yep.
BTW did you repeat My Apple, what did ye reckon?
Ben flashed it. I didn't due to struggling to dry my hands after using the snow-filled chips. No such problems for ben - he's a mountaineer remember.
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Jeepers! Amazing stuff. Any photos? And a name for the direct, not My Apple Buddy I hope?
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Name of the new Rotor problem: 'My Buddy The Apple'
Word is alive
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Genius :)
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what is this buddy fascination :roll:
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good effort putting these new problems up.
apple, buddys and chipshops all round
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Jamie Lilleman has climbed the wall right of Brad's Rib at Stanton Moor, he's called it Tom Thumb and offered a grade of 7b/7b+.
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Sorry Ru, but heres another new problem courtesy of Gaz Parry and myself at Rowtor to further compound the dated nature of the forthcoming guide.
'The Woodhead Hitcher' climbs through the centre of the roof left of Short Seans reachy roof, and the other problem up the arete and runnels.
Start in the break right in the middle of the front face (the middle of the traverse), stuff a baggy foot jam in and reach out for a lovely little scoop on the lip. Udge leftwards until the obvious big runnel is gained, shuffle up this and mantle, exiting direct.
The landing is quite 'exciting' but the hard moves are easily spottable. We thought Font 7a, and a good one at that. The big pocket in the roof on the right is not used at this grade.
Wierd - spent a lot of time on this block over the years but didn't notice this new line until today - nice new 7a's are a bit of a rarity these days judging by the new stuff mentioned previously in this topic! Gaz also repeated Domes sit start (3rd ascent?) and confirmed the grade at solid 7c+, and the quality saying that without knowledge of the beta it could feel a lot harder........don't they always!
Saw the chalk on My Buddy the Apple but didn't try the direct, just Lovejoys 'out-of-date' indirect version - a bit scary without many pads and spotters! Direct looks ace - a fine effort by the Brans-wibble. Looked at this last year and can confirm it goes but is filthy hard...... :shock:
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Sorry - this site is so slow at the minute I seem to have inadvertantly posted twice through frustration!
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How did you get on on the 'out-of-date' 'indirect'??
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OK - 'Madonna'ed' (Got into the groove) but didn't summit due to lack of mats and Gaz's incompetance at catching flying hippies - I was definately lacking commitment up there! Nice problem though - the direct looks good too and probably is 7c if the indirect is 7b :wink:
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Direct looks ace - a fine effort by the Brans-wibble. Looked at this last year and can confirm it goes but is filthy hard...... :shock:
I'm sure ben is relieved- he wasn't sure whether he'd actually done it or not.
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i heard a whisper that the Welford did his thing on marble wall either yesterday or day before
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you could start the link into the chip shop brawl ting by doing zippys on the cowper in reverse.....stamina eh??
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Sorry Ru, but heres another new problem courtesy of Gaz Parry and myself at Rowtor to further compound the dated nature of the forthcoming guide.
'The Woodhead Hitcher' climbs through the centre of the roof left of Short Seans reachy roof, and the other problem up the arete and runnels.
Start in the break right in the middle of the front face (the middle of the traverse), stuff a baggy foot jam in and reach out for a lovely little scoop on the lip. Udge leftwards until the obvious big runnel is gained, shuffle up this and mantle, exiting direct.
The landing is quite 'exciting' but the hard moves are easily spottable. We thought Font 7a, and a good one at that. The big pocket in the roof on the right is not used at this grade.
Wierd - spent a lot of time on this block over the years but didn't notice this new line until today - nice new 7a's are a bit of a rarity these days judging by the new stuff mentioned previously in this topic! Gaz also repeated Domes sit start (3rd ascent?) and confirmed the grade at solid 7c+, and the quality saying that without knowledge of the beta it could feel a lot harder........don't they always!
Saw the chalk on My Buddy the Apple but didn't try the direct, just Lovejoys 'out-of-date' indirect version - a bit scary without many pads and spotters! Direct looks ace - a fine effort by the Brans-wibble. Looked at this last year and can confirm it goes but is filthy hard...... :shock:
Not to piss on you bonfire but I think that this has been done before as being mistaken for Seans
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Aye I'd be surprised if Pat didn't do this back in '97 when he did the big roof.
But if you want the glory...
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Further news from Pat...
He did climb Bonjoy's Rowtor groove a few years back, but admitted to using a knee jam 'twixt tree and rock whilst 'gettin into the groove'. So Bonjoy still keeps the honour of the first tree-free ascent. :clap:
He's also been busy at stanage. Any of you crap at jumping will be excited to know he has managed to climb into the finish of big air. Not via the oft-tried direct, but by the lip traverse in from breadline. Expect font 7c/7c+ climbing above an uninspiring landing. Slightly easier for the tall, extra points if you manage to chalk up.
The obvious extensions by starting up either beneath the breadline or the trav in from the storm remain to be done.
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good effort there from paddy o'king.
i'd like to see him do big air, reverse this new thing into a reverse of deadline into the storm.
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i'd like to see glockfax draw a topo for this boulder (shades of salmon slab...)
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Phew, glory points saved by a tree dab.(Finally got some half decent pics the other day which will stick up later).
Top effort once again from Pat King(of style). Surely the big air direct start must be arriving soon from someone!
Any other projects dispatched by anyone over the festive time?
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welford done that direct to marbellous innit, that was nearly xmas time i think.
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Any more details on that one?
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outside new route book just says E8 7a, apparently its the lefthand/original/y tried start to the route, finishing up the existing E8. can't remember the name. done on the 20th or 21st i think.
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Kim doing the tall mans sequence on the groove bit of My (and Pat's) Apple.
(http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0QQD1ArwTLI!dNjW99kA*pZjGlV0vmqeLVcjqQzODuXU8ofs2nE8m*1L1BOmpQrjm1cBDCuMWzahW!AVkhJTTre*qnM!h5AYnqPB2UHUYz7E/Kimapple.jpg)
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Yet more peak news:
Ben Bransby bagged yet another peak project today with an ascent of the long-standing project arete at Cratcliffe. Ben noticed the line during an afternoon's abseiling and pronounced it 'on'. After enlisting the help of a local arete guru to unlock the sequence, Ben improved rapidly and success was assured.
Pics (not of Ben if it's not obvious):
(http://www.zen59200.zen.co.uk/Adam/Galleries/crat3.jpg)
And to avoid any confusion about the location:
(http://www.zen59200.zen.co.uk/Adam/Galleries/crat6.jpg)
Meanwhile, over at Eagle Tor, Kim Thompson also took advantage of the good conditions to despatch the much-tried rib below Dana Awen. Effort.
Lovejoy also did something at Rowtor trailing a string, though I guess that will be reported over on CT...
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It was the other project in that area that Kim did ie the right hand side of Rollin' Pat arete, from a sit start. The line has also been receiving a fair bit of atention from Andy Harris, unfortunatley for Andy the short person sequence which looked 8a to me was bypassed by Kims huge lank. Kim thought 7b+/7c but only if you are tall enough to do it the easy way. Kim is thinking of calling it My Lemon, where will all this fruit madness end :roll:.
The roped thing I did is Apple Tree E5 6c, start as for My Apple but follow the steep rib above the start of the groove, good RP in bottom of groove will probably keep you off the ground from the tricky topout. Nice moves but spoilled a little by the closeness of the tree.
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It was the other project in that area that Kim did ie the right hand side of Rollin' Pat arete, from a sit start. The line has also been receiving a fair bit of atention from Andy Harris/Scouse D. Since Scouse couldn't do it, it must be 8b...english tech
That's right.
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nah dave, if it was only 8b i'd have flashed it. my money is on 8c+ minimum.
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i heard it was wimberry 8c.
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now that's a grade :crazy:
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Just for the record I did the standing start to the new Eagle Tor problem 18 months ago at about Font 7b starting from the low arete with left an obvious side pull with right. Named “The Eagle has Landed.†Was hoping to set off an Eagle stone style prolem naming bonanza with my favourite genre of books. It's classic slappy grit action so get on it. Was pipped to the post by Kim on the sitdown but expect for those that can't go direct to the side pull the additional 7 hand and foot movements will bump the grade to a girn inducing 7c+/8a. Hopefully I'll be able to confirm this in coming weeks.
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hows the topout on that andy - it always looked a nightmare to me. do you kinda top left on the arete, or work rightwards, ....or just mantle like a mutha?
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kim went right i believe.
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I think kim also used the capping block of the gulley to top out from what he was saying
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Oooooooo controversial!
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Does that mean that the race is still on for the first pure ascent? Or more likely does it mean that I misunderstood Kim?
Either way I second Lovejoy's statement but with one extra o.
Ooooooooo controversial!
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Was just looking through previous posts, and noticed the pics of johnny Brown on that arete at cratcliffe, statint it as a new problem, this has definetly been done before about 1 1/2 or 2 years ago, dont know what it was called or graded but was definetly climbed.
Looked amazing anyway.
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who'd done it?
i must admit i was under the impression it'd been done before, dunno where i got that from though.
P.S. is what bransby did from a sitter or standing?
P.S.S. surely the cratcliffe fernhill groove thing would fall to bransby's recent wad-form. question?
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Percy did the wall just to the right from a sitter a couple of years ago. This may be the cause of the confusion.
If the arete was done, good effort. I know a few who tried but failed, but if anyone succeeded they kept very quiet - I know Ru did a lot of research for the guide. Who?
Its from standing - you might be able to sit-start as for Percy's and trav in, but it's not the kind of thing to get excited about.
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bransby should get in the groove and call it appointment with bass clef. i thank you.
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word
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bransby should get in the groove and call it appointment with bass clef. i thank you.
or "Fern Ill"
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The Bransby is too short on height and vision for that groove...
....what we need is a taller version of dawes... though better looking... possibly with bunches???
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The Bransby is too short on .... vision for that groove...
are you high?
....what we need is someone taller version of dawes...
did you do english at school?
only 2 posts to go.................
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....what we need is someone taller version of dawes... though better looking...
my ears are burning.
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....what we need is a taller version of dawes... though better looking... possibly with bunches???
Sounds like Pat King apart from the better looking bit. Big Johhny, Little Johhny,Big Johhny, Little Johhny....
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bransby should get in the groove and call it appointment with bass clef. i thank you.
or "Fern Ill"
I always wanted to call it Benny Hill, or Jimmy Hill, but that's fucking boss.
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Can't say i've ever heard any rumours of the arete being done.
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Done again today by tall man's leapin sequence. Thinkin more 7c+ than 7c?
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do i take it that yet again today the only dry crags were rivelin and cratfliffe?
to tink we spend all summer waiting for winter.....
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minus ten was bone dry and had queues for probs. trackside was dry later on too.