UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Greg C on March 30, 2011, 01:08:58 pm
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I heard a rumour this morning that Blackpool Sam has done The Ace and Voyager (not to mention Isla De Encanta), anyone confirm this? Incidentally, I was told he did The Ace in 2009! If this is the case then, whilst I know he doesn't like to be in the press, surely this should be put in the repeats record books? If this is correct, good effort Sam! :great:
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Effort! Any videos? Love to see Isla climbed!
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:popcorn: oooo the rumour mill grinds away.
Im pretty sure 99%, he did ace donkeys ago, did voyager from stand up over chrimbo, but he hasnt done isle, he cant do the first move i think.
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I'm 98% sure he didn't do the Ace in 2009, as i asked him in my winter round up on the 21st Dec 2009 and i quote word for word.
SAM
"I don't have a huge ticklist sheet as i don't really keep a record. If The Ace is the sitter to a one move wonder off two crimps then I haven't done it. I never mantled it!! because of the big rock underneath it. (yep a big girl). Just out of interest who told you?"
So either he has got confused due to his lack of record keeping and frequent blackouts from trying so hard or he has forgotten he didn't do it and what he said to me. Or he went back in the next 9days. or he did it in 2010. And i think Greg is getting sick of hearing all this.
His sequence on texas holdem sit is also news worthy as it is at least 8B.
Heaviest ascent of voyager by 15kgs easily...
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What a beast! And don't be bitter Dan, the Blackpool crusher has brought his (massive) guns to bear on your so called 'hard grit'! No spotters, no cameras, no fuss! Awesome.
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100% done the ace, just spoke to him.
I find that a bit of a strange statement mate... "and i think greg is getting sick of hearing all this" ?
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when did he do it?
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Dunno, he just said he'd done it.
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He's a witch! burn him!
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when did he do it?
Dan no doubt your conversation happened. Sam did spend a while on the grit that year.
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we'll it was obviously after email correspondence then. When at the very end of 2009, with 10days remaining, he told me he hadn't done it, the weather was really poor at the end of december too, (from the 19th to early Jan was around when we had huge dumps of snow prior to the snow balling, nearly the whole country was unclimbable except a few coastal venues and the odd sheltered problem). And now people seem to be under the impression he did it in 09 (greg could maybe clarify this), so i'd say its worth getting straightened out.
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To set the record straight....Sam climbed the Joker topping out no problem, he then tried the sit start, The Ace, on the same day but did not top it out as his mat got blown from under him and he jumped from the lip. So, no he has not climbed The Ace and has not been back to try it.
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He told my source categorically that he'd done The Ace (just asked him). Therefore it seems a bit weird that you are saying he didn't, could you be mistaken? Pretty sure he said he'd done Isla too :-\ Ah well, still a good effort doing the Joker and Voyager stand-up - that's still 8b isn't it?
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Cheers Aaron, that's sorted that then, no top no tick. Pesky rumours, sounds like even his mates are confused.
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100% done the ace, just spoke to him.
To set the record straight....Sam climbed the Joker topping out no problem, he then tried the sit start, The Ace, on the same day but did not top it out as his mat got blown from under him and he jumped from the lip. So, no he has not climbed The Ace and has not been back to try it.
He told my source categorically that he'd done The Ace (just asked him). Therefore it seems a bit weird that you are saying he didn't, could you be mistaken? Pretty sure he said he'd done Isla too :-\ Ah well, still a good effort doing the Joker and Voyager stand-up - that's still 8b isn't it?
Hey wait a minute, what's going on here? So what's the deal? I guess if Aaron was at Stanage with Sam he knows the sketch.
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I honestly can't imagine anyone backing off the top out of The Ace because their mat blew away. Sounds like chinese whispers/ rubbish to me.
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I honestly can't imagine anyone backing off the top out of The Ace because their mat blew away. Sounds like chinese whispers/ rubbish to me.
Are you insinuating that Chinese people can't whisper?
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There is no confusion here. I think at some point, someone got The Joker mixed up with The Ace, possibly Sam himself. I have spoken to him and he told me exactly what and how he did it, be it, with a little confusion and clarification over the names. And no, I was not with him at stanage.
I honestly can't imagine anyone backing off the top out of The Ace because their mat blew away. Sounds like Chinese whispers/ rubbish to me.
I don't think he simply backed off at the drop of a hat, I think the conditions on the day did not allow an easy top out and apparently there's a large and uncomfortable boulder directly underneath.
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I honestly can't imagine anyone backing off the top out of The Ace because their mat blew away. Sounds like chinese whispers/ rubbish to me.
I can't imagine anyone trying The Ace without a spotter! Never mind someone who wouldn't top out because their mat blew away (regardless of conditions on top). Any volunteers?
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There's jugs/decent flatties over the top on the joker thought innit? Unless they're covered in snow n shit.
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To set the record straight....Sam climbed the Joker topping out no problem, he then tried the sit start, The Ace, on the same day but did not top it out as his mat got blown from under him and he jumped from the lip
I don't think he simply backed off at the drop of a hat, I think the conditions on the day did not allow an easy top out
Really....
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Unless they're covered in snow n shit.
If they were covered in shit I wouldn't be topping out.
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To set the record straight....Sam climbed the Joker topping out no problem, he then tried the sit start, The Ace, on the same day but did not top it out as his mat got blown from under him and he jumped from the lip
I don't think he simply backed off at the drop of a hat, I think the conditions on the day did not allow an easy top out
Really....
...yes and you would also have read that his mat blew away...
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SAM
"I don't have a huge ticklist sheet as i don't really keep a record. If The Ace is the sitter to a one move wonder off two crimps then I haven't done it. I never mantled it!! because of the big rock underneath it. (yep a big girl). Just out of interest who told you?"
Hold on a minute The Ace is a stand start. Is this a mistake or did the guy almost do the project 8b+/c sit start in a session!!?
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There is no confusion here. I think at some point, someone got The Joker mixed up with The Ace, possibly Sam himself. I have spoken to him and he told me exactly what and how he did it, be it, with a little confusion and clarification over the names. And no, I was not with him at stanage.
Also, it does seem a little far fetched to suggest you would find yourself at Stanage, and subsequently on The Ace/Joker, without really knowing which was which and which one you'd done at the end of the day. Even I don't forget stuff like that... and I forget a fair bit. Is he sure he was at Stanage and not Windy Clough? ;)
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(http://www.soccer24-7.com/forum/images/smilies/blowcule.gif)
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If ever a thread needed the insights of a dense loner, then this is the one.
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I thought this was significant repeats not significant rumours :-\
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I thought this was significant repeats not significant rumours :-\
exactly.
I think a few people need to look at how they're dealing with this and take a lesson or two from history.
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:agree:
No wonder he's reluctant to say what he's done. :shrug:
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:agree:
No wonder he's reluctant to say what he's done. :shrug:
Well it sounds like he doesn't know what he's done so keeping stchum probably is the best option.the top out must have been iced up badly.no one would jump off the easy top out of one ofthe classic hard problems in Britain just cos its slighly sketchy.
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He's started losing sponsors already ;)
If its any help, I have a picture (genuine) of no-one doing the Ace and another of no-one doing the Joker to back up none of the statements above??
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no one would jump off the easy top out of one ofthe classic hard problems in Britain just cos its slighly sketchy.
Given he seems to be jibing it somewhat:
If The Ace is the sitter to a one move wonder off two crimps
yet has a proven track record on some of this island's shittest problems, I think we've either got a man whose life is a 'ruthless rejection of any ideals of line or quality' to quote Grimer or... he's the promised son of Johnny G. God help us.
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He can't be the son of jonothon.he's got hair hasn't he?
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Sam has very little hair.
When I spoke to him 3 months ago he was laughing at someone saying he'd done Voyager as he said he'd never been near it.
Chaos reigns, next time I see him I'll chat and see.
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I think he is trying to create as much confusion as possible by telling half the people he meets he's done it and half he hasnt just so he can watch this thread and have a quite little chuckle to himself :lol:
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Maybe he has an evil twin? :devil-smiley:
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Regarding Isla. He started undercut with left hand, right hand on the crimp. So in theory he hasn't done it, but he doesn't care.
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yet has a proven track record on some of this island's shittest problems,
[/quote]
depends if you view a 4m roof at 85 degree with only 3 'holds' as shit, aesthetics or imagination, both have beauty. as does an 8m traverse on the foot holds of a V8 into a V10, which equates to another shit V13/4
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He told me ages ago he'd done Ace to the lip and jibbed the top due to weather (snow and/or ice I think) can't quite remember as it was ages ago and I believe him. Below forcast for said period.
''December saw the beginning of the longest cold snap since 1981, one that was to last well into 2010. Heavy rain and snow caused significant travel disruption across the country, particularly affecting travel over the Christmas period. A minimum temperature of -18.4C was recorded in Braemar, Aberdeenshire.'' BBC - Weather - 2009 was a washout year (http://news.bbc.co.uk/weather/hi/uk_reviews/newsid_8509000/8509161.stm#id8170000/8174900/8174945)
Personally, given the circs I'd have taken that for a tick (and yes would have disclosed the style).
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I hear Gazza's just turned up at the Plantation with a fishing rod, some chicken and a can of lager.
(http://t1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQVgU_Cmdsb4tePwNpAouL949PuLf8XnxkCYjbFrs30QFPQopzcEg&t=1)
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I can confirm it was fooking cold in Aberdeenshire at that time if it helps clear things up.
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Perfectly Chris ;)
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Yeh me point was this was the only weather forcast I could find for the said period. I thought I'd throw it in as it is factual supportive evidence (it did state the UK was baltic) for the Pro Sam camp. :weakbench:
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I didn't realise it was mushroom season.
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Yeh me point was this was the only weather forcast I could find for the said period. I thought I'd throw it in as it is factual supportive evidence (it did state the UK was baltic) for the Pro Sam camp. :weakbench:
I understand the intention, but no-one was asking for hard evidence. I think most of us can remember back that far :)
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The problem with these threads are nobody ever provides hard evidence so I thought I'd break the mould.....however if we use hard evidence we might draw the thread to a conclusion and thus eliminate our chances of slagging the fella off for another 90+ pages.
I'm just saying instead of rumour and character assassination :chair: why not use a holistic approach and look for details surounding the alledged event. :-\
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Personally, given the circs I'd have taken that for a tick (and yes would have disclosed the style).
you must have a good supply of valium
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:popcorn:
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(http://mayang.com/textures/Wood/images/Other%20Wood/log_pile_4210098.JPG)
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The problem with these threads are nobody ever provides hard evidence so I thought I'd break the mould.....however if we use hard evidence we might draw the thread to a conclusion and thus eliminate our chances of slagging the fella off for another 90+ pages.
I'm just saying instead of rumour and character assassination :chair: why not use a holistic approach and look for details surounding the alledged event. :-\
Look chief, if you are going to go all Perry Mason I suggest you read all the posts in the thread before quoting 'evidence', as you put it, which merely serves to confuse the matter further. Earlier in this thread the honorable gentleman (Mr. Tonks) stated that Sam didn't do The Ace because his mat blew away, although he had done The Joker earlier the same day. Fine. Except you then wade in and tell us he didn't do The Ace because there was ice and snow all over the top of the block. I assume a freak blizzard blew in after he topped out The Joker? All you have done is confuse us all even more....
So far in this thread are 3 'concrete' reasons why Sam didn't do The Ace - all different. Look, he said he didn't do fine, why don't you just leave it at that.
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In summary, this thread has proven that sam, whilst putting in a good effort, has not done The Ace (in 2009). Yet, contradicting his email, the big man himself has openly claimed an ascent whilst out at the crag. Furthermore, he also stated he was not media shy and would like is achievements to be recorded (ie. lakes bloc graded list etc.). This leads me too question other ascents he has openly claimed at the crag. Now if these claims turn into similar stories to the one similar to The Ace, they need to be sorted and information corrected in the record books. This air of mystery is one that needs sorting for the sake of our sport. Not only do liars demean other climbers' ascents, it also creates a bad name for our (the uk’s) strongest climbers.
Now my view on the issue is that I hope he has done what he says he has and I don’t want to slag him off. BUT, if in any other sport you rocked up and claimed some of the best achievements in the world with confused, changing and absurd evidence/explanations you would be laughed out of town. Climbing should be no different. In my (over 25) personal experiences and observations of Sam at ‘his local’ crags suggest he has not demonstrated the talent or strength you see in many V11 climbers let alone V14 ones. Now I will eat my words and make my apologies as soon as I’m proved wrong. The last thing I want to do is take ascents away from somebody but this needs to be sorted out.
The problems he has claimed that I feel need more (concrete) evidence on are:
Art the heart of it All
Kaizen (original)
Voyager
Little Women
The keel Project (to the right of Iron Man)
Texas hold ‘em SDS
Karma of the Trees SDS
Super Submarine
Isle D’encanta
Zoo York
Memories of Tomorrow
Any Major impressive Links (that he has crushes)
Or any other significant problems that have been witnessed and demonstrate his ability as one of Britain’s top boulders.
I hope people understand the reasons for this rant and take it the right way.
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In my (over 25) personal experiences and observations of Sam at ‘his local’ crags suggest he has not demonstrated the talent or strength you see in many V11 climbers let alone V14 ones.
Kaizen (original)
I have watched Sam do AOSD with a weightbelt, and have seen a video of him doing Kaizen original and falling off the last move. I have also watched him do all the moves on Kaizen in person.
Now, I'm not claiming that proves all his ascents, but I disagree that he's never shown he can climb like a V11 climber.
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Thanks GCW, this is the sort of info that needs to be said. Now it was also mentioned in conversation that your saw Sam do Little Women. Can you confirm this.
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I think it's only fair that doubters identify themselves in these sort of situations.
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Now it was also mentioned in conversation that your saw Sam do Little Women. Can you confirm this.
No, I didn't.
I saw him trying it on the occasion before he did it, but he linked it through to the last section, and basically did it in 2 overlapping parts so I have no doubt he could do it.
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In summary, this thread has proven that sam
Unless I have missed some obvious "proof" it hasn't proven anything. Much conjecture has been spewed, thats about it.
The problems he has claimed that I feel need more (concrete) evidence on are:
Art the heart of it All
Kaizen (original)
Voyager
Little Women
The keel Project (to the right of Iron Man)
Texas hold ‘em SDS
Karma of the Trees SDS
Super Submarine
Isle D’encanta
Zoo York
Memories of Tomorrow
Any Major impressive Links (that he has crushes)
Or any other significant problems that have been witnessed and demonstrate his ability as one of Britain’s top boulders.
If it is so important, drive over to his house and ask him.
I hope people understand the reasons for this rant and take it the right way.
Not really. The last thing the world needs is another tedious self important 'we are owed the facts' thread.
It started off as vaugly amusing rumour and my mate heard this thread, illustrating more than anything how unrealiable hearsay is, but you seem to want it to evolve into a good old fashioned witch hunt.
Either ask the man himself or SHUT UP about it.
Despite sharing the same first name I have no vested interest and couldn't actually care less.
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As an aside, when did Sam claim he'd done the Keel project on the Shelterstone? As far as I was aware he hadn't.
Oh, and I've seen him link the first moves of Il Pirata too, until his bulk loosened the starting jug.
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(http://www.leeallenphotography.com/storage/blog-images/4am-138-of-141.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1239029043518)
(http://www.robertopiecollection.com/Application/images/Pashley/princess-sovereign-lg.jpg)
(http://www.peakdistrictinformation.com/images/stanage4.jpg)
:lol:
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you forgot the Spaniard and it was a tandem.
Punter