UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Three Nine on November 02, 2008, 09:47:20 pm
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I'm surprised there's nothing up here yet (have i missed a thread?). Mclure did some new tricky thing (9a?) on saturday, evolution into something mecca-related? (i don't know raven tor well). He made it look totally totally piss.
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Yes amazing, Evolution into Kaabah, grade??....haven't got a clue. Apparently the evolution flake is a decent rest but not as good as the Mecca flake.
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8c(+)? into 8b? i dont have a clue
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He made it look totally totally piss.
It would be major news if he made something not look totally piss.
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he should do keen roof into steveolution. That should be piss+.
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Amusing commentary from Steve McClure on the line...
Jerry Moffat's route Evolution (8c) at Raven Tor, though amazing, does end in the middle of the cliff at an obvious 'good hold'. It seems it deserves to go on for longer. Ages ago I climbed Mutation (9a) which moved out right just before the belay but the original route always had an obvious extension blasting up the wall to join the last hard moves of Mecca Extension (8c).
Having heard Evolution itself had lost a crucial hold I was inspired to re-climb it, and continue onwards. In these difficult times of credit crunch and grade confusion I think it's important to take grades very seriously and get them absolutely exactly right. The new link climbs Evolution at F8c+ before blasting up the desperate crimpy wall, at around F8b. Considering the height of the route and the reduction in gravity, as well as the loss of a crucial hold meaning there may be fewer moves, the grade comes down to a lofty F8c. However, the grade is also dependant on sponsorship requirement levels and thus varies from F8b to F9a+. I should also point out that there was a bouldering pad somewhere nearby.
Above the belay is a scrappy corner and I'm dreaming of extending this link all the way to the top of the crag, perhaps even beyond. With the corner protected by pegs a traditional grade would be justified and the whole link could come in at a tough E4, no harder because it's not that dangerous though only an onsight will tell us exactly the right grade and count as a true ascent. To be precise it would be E4 F8c V10 font 7c+ T / S P0
;D :lol: :bow:
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Forgive me for being totally numb but the amusing reply Steve wrote about the route left me no clearer as to the grade! I find it hard to beleive it's only F8c (as stated at the end) but then maybe Steve has entered Gaskins :bow: territory and is such a beast he can no longer grade in a way us weaklins understand f8c into f8b =>f8c I have lost the will to lock! :'(
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Forgive me for being totally numb but the amusing reply Steve wrote about the route left me no clearer as to the grade! I find it hard to beleive it's only F8c (as stated at the end) but then maybe Steve has entered Gaskins :bow: territory and is such a beast he can no longer grade in a way us weaklins understand f8c into f8b =>f8c I have lost the will to lock! :'(
Perhaps a definition (http://www.google.co.uk/search?q=define%3Asarcasm&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-GB:official&client=firefox-a) might help ::) ;)
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I think the point was that its grade is not terribly important. Rupert Davies suggested at the time it was 9a. Steve said it felt "easy", but then that means very little.