UKBouldering.com
places to visit => conditions reports (isitgreasy on twitter) => Topic started by: Dutch on August 07, 2011, 10:06:00 pm
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Just wondering if anyone has had a look at what nick it's in. How wet the holds are and if it's climbable at moment. Hoping with the dry weather it might be in good nick.
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dobbin did it yesterday
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yeah totally dry. dont know if i did it a very inefficient way or something, but it felt hard for 7c.
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Cheers for that. Hopefully get out and try it this week.
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yeah totally dry. dont know if i did it a very inefficient way or something, but it felt hard for 7c.
I thought it was nails too.
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As of last night its "dry" in that the starting hold is damp/soapy, and the top hold or should I say topsoil is damp. I think this is about as dry as it ever gets though.
I didn't do it (first session on lime bouldering for over a month, fingers very tender) but I was going to say it felt pretty OK for that grade.
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As indeed do most things when you can reach past the hard bit ;)
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why I oughta...
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;D
I think a fitting punishment would be a reach around?
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Found this video of a guy half of Paint It Black .
Paint it Black, 7C (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lDYl10FVZPM#)
seems like there a ton of different beta for this - too many holds?
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Found this video of a guy half of Paint It Black .
Does it finish higher than this then at the next break? Thinking of giving it a go at some point soon. Presumably it'll be wet over autumn/winter?
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There's a couple of holds just where the rock becomes soil, thats the finish. Yeah and it will generally be soaked in winter - infact its often wet even in summer! I know the start was damp even on the FA.
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Ha, thats brilliant - look at Ethan's guns though, by jesus!
So, he goes left over to the pinch at the start where I went right. Once I'd gotten that I toe hooked like Ethan does, then left to rat crimp, toe out and stand on edge, change left foot from heel to on spike, flag, and right to bad rat crimp thing. Then I went left to the same hold as Ethan, and right to wee vertical edge round the corner, then right foot on back of little hand hold and rock for jug at top. Match in, then left on pinch and lunge leftwards for jug. Walk feet through, right hand to undercut in roof, frog and lurch left hand to sharp jug in dirt, catch it match it, etc.
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thats confusing. the beta in the video only has 1 hold in common with the sequence I worked out the other day, (bar the start holds obviously).
Hopefully after tonight I can gloat that I've got a better sequence than you guys....
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http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,17487.msg314208.html#msg314208 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,17487.msg314208.html#msg314208)
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anyone heading down here tomorrow, the entire sean's roof area and over the road were completely rinsed in condensation. 100% gopping.
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Yeah there is so many different ways of doing this thing, lots of holds to play with. I've done the start both ways, one using the crimp/pinch with left hand and then again using it with the right. Don't think it really matters as it feels about the same in the end regardless of which beta you use. Wicked little problem though!
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Just wondering if anyone's been down today to see what sort of nick it's in. Don't know whether I can be arsed to drive out if it's still wet after the other day.
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It didn't look amazing as we drove past earlier, but couldn't really tell for sure.
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First hold a bit greasy but basically dry today
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There's a couple of holds just where the rock becomes soil, thats the finish. Yeah and it will generally be soaked in winter - infact its often wet even in summer! I know the start was damp even on the FA.
It can be dry in Winter apparently. It was the driest I've ever seen it on Saturday, and after all that rain! Random. Here's the original sequence. Second problem in:
Feeling Peakie (http://www.vimeo.com/29269108)
Note the finished holds being the jugs in line with the prow, rather than the first crimp over the lip, or the break at half height ::).
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Hey, good effort Dobbin. I met you there a few weeks back :)
Ive since been inspired my the line and climbed it myself, deffo my fav prob on lime and my first lime 7C too. I found the footwork very betary. Once id sussed my sequence out it came quickly (as I guess al these things do!) lots of holds yes, the toe-hook at the start and heel-hook to the break were key for me.
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Cheers for that video Andy. Some good problems in it!
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Top video! I'm pining for the peak now. Liked your Curbar one too.
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Dense will be pleased
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Do you think I should have captioned it under it's original name? I can't believe Dense has retro retro claimed it just for the new guide.
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oooh, just when i was goin to wad you for climbing something worthwhile :chair:
wall in 10 mins andy or have you broke yourself already? £180 a session, thats gotta hurt the pocket
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Funnily enough I have, but not at the wall. I'll come down and drink coffee with you. See you in a bit.
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Which problem is Dense retro claiming, and more importantly, which David Gray album does he want to name it after?
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The classic Carl Kelsall problem "Ego" at Wimberry.
(I'd best stop with this soon or he'll come round and chin me.)
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assumed this would be dry tomorrow but after seeing some pretty bad reports form vallee du Chee was wondering if anyone had been on this today?
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I was at Seans roof two days ago and although some of the stuff by the cave (paint it black, Somebodys head etc) was damp the stuff across the road was bone dry (jerrys, Red or dead.) Also had a look down at beginners wall which was slightly damp but probs ok to climb on. probably be similar today and as long as this hot weather continues.
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Beginner's wall today - Neil's wall plus SS dry, Recreational V just about dry, swing time etc slightly damp but fine with a dit of drying. Advanced training wet but maybe dryable. Didn't look further up at the seans roof stuff.
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Long live the lime, did you venture across the road?
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did you venture across the road?
To mutton busting etc? No, just beginners and the glorious tor (which was in good condition, only a bit wet on the left)
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anyone know how this area is after this crappy weather?
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anyone know how this area is after this crappy weather?
know someone who did some hard stuff on beginners wall today so that must be fine. dunno bought seans though. probs dank.
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anyone know how this area is after this crappy weather?
know someone who did some hard stuff on beginners wall today so that must be fine. dunno bought seans though. probs dank.
heard all the sean's stuff was seeping wet on wednesday. so imagine it still is
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any guesses on how this will be today? forgot to say cheers for the previous replies too.
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seans roof pretty dry today. paint it black was dry apart from one damp hold low down. some damp patches elsewhere but dryable.
beginners similar, did swing time but it was pretty wet.
mutton busting across the road was dry.
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Nathan was Beginners Wall condesed or standard wet? keen for a bit of swing time
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the wall was quite wet, but the key holds weren't, only the intermediate pocket half way through. i'd say its doable for sure and its only getting drier.
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Probably pretty obvious but Beginners wall is almost all completely soaked. Seans roof seemed to be wet on most of the holds all the way along to the left hand small problems. Red or dead wall was in good condition with only a few pockets having wet in the back but everything was climbable.
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drove past this today but didnt get a great look, however a few parts of it looked pretty dry, red or dead was dry, seans roof looked wet but left of it looked alright but with a few wet streaks.
didnt get a very good look at swing time e.t.c but could well be dry, didnt look soaked
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anyone been recently??
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Had a close look at paint it black on way back from Cheedale last night. A bit damp, but looked like it only needed a day or so to dry.
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had a look at paint it this evening. seemed wetter than on monday....
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aahh no :( would begineers wall be any better?
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beginners had a big wet streak man. red or dead and jerrys were dry though.
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ah alright, cheers. will maybe have a wander up tomorrow just to see
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Does anyone know what time Red Or Dead is out the sun?
Thanks.
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Jasper should.
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Might also be worth checking out the lay-by wall a little further down the road from Beginner's wall. Not as steep, so I imagine condensation is less of an issue. http://peakbouldering.info/boulders/713 (http://peakbouldering.info/boulders/713)
There are also some brilliant problems in the Miller's Dale quarries nearby. Limestone, but not as you know it. http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=16477.0 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=16477.0)
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There are also some brilliant problems in the Miller's Dale quarries nearby. Limestone, but not as you know it. http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=16477.0 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=16477.0)
I think these are best avoided due to access. Someone else might know more than me.
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Yeah, don't go anywhere near those two - the ones up opposite Miller's Dale station or the one right of the railway between Miller's Dale and Chee Tor Tunnel.
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That's a real shame, the bouldering is great. What's the situation - is it permanently off limits, or likely to change at any time? Loads of walkers in the quarries when we were there, so we didn't think access would be a problem.
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There are also some brilliant problems in the Miller's Dale quarries nearby. Limestone, but not as you know it. http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=16477.0 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=16477.0)
Are the ones between the station and Chee Tor Tunnel Strawberry Rocks and Strawberry Quarry? Have the DWT said they don't want climbers to go there? Just wondering as there's no reference to I couldn't find any reference to Strawberry Rocks on the BMC database.
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Yep, that's right, they have another name which I can't find at the mo. Someone put in some bolts a few years back which were thankfully removed before too much damage was done. The ones up opposite Miller's Dale station are called Miller's Dale or Priestcliffe Quarries - these are even closed to birdwatchers at this time of year.
The DWT's attitude to access is the less people, the better.
the bouldering is great.
Really? Where? I suspect your standards must be very different to mine! I'm really not convinced there is much of worth here, it always seemed a fair concession to agree no access here rather than the many decent crags hereabouts.
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wasnt great this evening, seans roof area seemed wet although paint it black could be dryable maybe. lower bits damp leftwards. what would.... was dryish bar the very start and the ending footholds. begineers wall was all wet really.
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the bouldering is great.
Really? Where?
See videos - the Quarry 2 vid gives the best flavour. Some highballs, some lowballs. Lots of 7's, potential for some 8's. All on comfy holds. Lots of technical vertical stuff. Some good climbing in the lower grades too, which is unusual for lime. I'm not saying the quarries are the next stanage, but there are some very enjoyable problems, up there with the best on peak lime.
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...up there with the best on peak lime.
Hmmm not sure about that....
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Which ones have you done?
And why is it hard to accept that there might be a few really good problems?
It's a shame that access is an issue, and if that's inflexible then so be it, but the idea that there is nothing worthwhile in there is just rubbish. Maybe the routes are shit, they look a bit chossy, but I don't really know. The bouldering is not shit.
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...up there with the best on peak lime.
Hmmm not sure about that....
if they're better than terrible they probably are.
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drove past there yesterday afteroon and all pretty mich bone dry
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PIB is dry and chalked now
Red or Dead wall all good
Beginners Wall getting there, still bits of seepage though
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Pretty wet last week but still climbing to be had if you are keen.
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Did you notice if Beginner's Wall was dry?
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Spoke to someone yesterday who'd dropped past on Sat and said it was totally soaked
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:shit: :shit: :shit: :shit: :shit: :shit: :shit: :shit: :shit: :shit: :shit: :shit: :shit: :shit: :shit: :shit: :shit: :shit: :shit: :shit: :shit: :shit:
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Red or Dead was dry today, everything else wet
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It's a gopping mess this morning,condensation everywhere
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apologies that should have been in the tor rwport :sorry:
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Red or Dead wall is dry. Jerry's Traverse has wet footholds on the LHS, looks like someone has tried to dry it but it doesn't look climbable just yet
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Had a quick look this afternoon, Jerry's Traverse now dry, Paint it Black had a couple of greasy holds but might be OK, and most of the stuff to the left looked fine. Didn't check out Beginner's Wall but looked like it might be alright from the road
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Any more updates?? Also anyone been to Beginner's Wall area recently??
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No but I'll be driving past later on if that's of any use?
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beginners wall really dry last night. routes in good nick, some low footholds wet on the bouldering. jerry's trav bone
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Has anyone been past in the last few days?
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Is it still 7C!?
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Had a quick glance at Jerry's Traverse as I drove back just now, totally condensated. Didn't really see PiB though sorry
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Does anyone have an update of the conditions - appreciate any info!
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Quick update from Saturday - 1/9/12
Red of Dead - Dry
Jerry's Traverse - Dry
Paint it Black and all problems on that side - Wet (drying, but still seeping)
Beginners Wall - Dry (odd seeping hold but dryable with a rag)
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Jerry's & Red of Dead walls are all dry. Paint it Black a bit soapy but the things to the left were dry.
Beginner's Wall dry, if a bit soapy in the back of pockets.
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Any one go here today would like an update if possible?
cheers
John
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Heard it was wet from someone who went today midday.
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Ok dont sound good then. Thanks for update.
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Has anyone been to Beginners Wall recently? How is it fairing?
Thanks
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Was dry last Thursday, routes and bouldering! Tim
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nice one, we've had some rain since then but not biblical so fingers crossed. thanks
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mate did paint it black today, said it was all dry including the tor if it helps :)
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Beginners wall area is ok, bit smeggy in the pockets on man of steel etc but hard stuff on the left looked really dry, the route itself in good condition which is a shame as that leaves me with no excuse for getting SHUT DOWN.
Saw Tim and folk climbing on the Sean's roof side of the road, the other side all felt good with the little we touched. Good temps. No grit until i'm sure the midges are massacred.
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Hi
Can anyone give an update on conditions? Particularly paint it black?
?cheers john
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Someone on Jerry's Traverse this afternoon, sorry didn't get a look at PiB.
Beginner's Wall looked surprisingly dry too
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Absolutely soaked yesterday.
Holds all soggy, the wall around them was dry.
lame
:shrug:
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that doesnt sound good. Thanks for the update.
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Does anyone have a latest on conditions? Thinking of a Saturday trip but Thursday looks dire... Will it put it out of action? Any info on nuda's tartan would be great too!
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No first hand knowledge of Nuda's Tartan but I did see a couple of problems logged on ukc yesterday, so presumably ok.
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Was at Nuda's yesterday. Feet on scenic route were damp, jams on calorie count and slot machine were a bit greasy as were some of the deeper pockets on the meltdown traverse thing. All climable and decent enough conditions to keep us busy for a few hours :)
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aslong as its not overly humid nudas is usually really reliable (i've not found it properly wet all "summer") Meltdown and tarantula are classy.
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Cheers for the swift responses! I guess the tor isn't all that far should they be grim :)
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Tue afternoon and Paint it Black looked very wet.
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Had a look today. Paint it Black and everything that side of the road wet.
Other side was good though - Jerry's Traverse dry, Red or Dead/Freerange dry, the wall to the left looked a bit damp the holds on that 6b looked dry
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Has anyone driven past Blackwell dale today... Thinking of going tomorrow....
Cheers
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I noticed someone logged Jerry's Traverse on UKC. I would be interested in how conditions are if you head down tomorrow, cheers
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If I can convince my friends that its a good idea to go I'll post up....
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Stopped on route to tor, Jerrys traverse looked dry, the rest looked very wet.
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well thats :shit: cheers.....
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This was almost dry yesterday - just a bit greasy on the first slopey shelf and in the top break, but climbable and obviously improving quickly.
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Win... cheers man
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Sean's Roof soaked I take it?
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This was dry yesterday, only the first LH hold was a bit damp but still climbable.
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Anyone know how this little area is looking?
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On Saturday evening looked very wet as I drove past.
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I left (clean) toilet paper concealed in the crack of paint it black the other day, I can't get out this weekend but if anyone is near by and fancies swapping it for slightly drier stuff that would be ace!
Cheers
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Any body seen paint it black today? Would like a look Monday (after a couple of warm days!) so hope it will be dry.... Any info would be appreciated :bounce:
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Was wetter than New Orleans after the levees broke on Saturday morning...
Not sure what it's like today
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Gonna look tomorow after work so shall post....
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any news on whether working 9-5 is dry?
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Stopped off yesterday PM and it was still wet.
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Am guessing still wet today?
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Ed Hamer tweeted that he did Working 9-5 last night, so :shrug:
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cheers for update....think dave mason did sitter recently and posted a link to a vid - anyone know where this is??
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Working 9-5, Blackwell Dale. on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/67123445)
There's also a vid of the standstart here (http://peakbouldering.info/areas/5-central-limestone/crags/79-sean-s-roof/boulders/331-sean-s-roof/problems/4140-working-9-5-standstart) which is a decent problem in its own right.
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Called in Yesterday evening, didn't look to be seeping much but it was still and humid-
Paint It Black damp
Fudge & stuff to the left dry
Two damp streaks on Jerry's Traverse
Red or Dead area dry but a bit condensated, dryable
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Has anyone been in the last few days? What are the conditions like?
Cheers
John
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Was pretty much bone dry on Saturday
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Was pretty much bone dry on Saturday
Sean's Roof looking dry too?
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Didn't look at Sean's tbh.
Was playing on Byker Groove which was still seeping a little higher up.
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Looked like it was drying out, some damp holds and patches around still last night, although we couldn't actually climb on that sideof the road some guy had parked a foot away from rock and apparently had then gone cycling! Fricking heck, we went the tor.
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Should have padded his car out hahahaha
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It crossed my mind, but it had painful looking roof rails and rack.
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You want to be careful falling on a roof rack... E? Hahaha
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Anyone been down today? Know if it's started seeping after the recent rain?
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It was soaked from condensation on Tuesday p.m.
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It was all dry today
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Everything on that side of the road gopping wet today. What would Jerry do/red or dead climbable but with damp patches.
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red or dead and the other 7b forgot its name looked doable, slight wet patches on the big sloper rail, but if your keen probably dryable.
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I'm guessing PIB side is pretty wet?
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I could be wrong - and often have been, but with last nights rain and today's rain I would think it was wet.
Anybody driven by?
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yea PiB side was aoaked.
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has anyone been recently. was considering heading there tomorrow afternoon. cheers
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Most likely still wet.
Its been raining in Buxton on and off for the last couple of days and in my experience of Blackwell Dale it needs to be well into summer for the connies to come good down there.
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No idea, but I'm driving past on Saturday morning (as long as it's not raining) so could have a look then. Obviously later than you want though...
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thanks both. looks like the tor is reasonable at the moment so will probably head there and have a look at PIB on the way
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I had a look on Saturday and water was streaming down the PIB side from the ground above. Looked like it was mainly the run off rather than any seepage, but it was completely soaked.
On the other side, Jerry's suffered the same fate, but Red or Dead was dry as a bone.
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Anyone looked at PIB in the last day or so?
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Really wet today Tom
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Thanks - Tor it is then
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Does anyone know if dry yet???
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Looked in on Sunday. All of the Red Or Dead side was dry. Paint it Black was climbable with a little damp in the undercut crack, the stuff to its left was wet and Sean's was dry enough except for the big hole.
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paint it black dry, some of the problems to the left dry too (orange si is dry and well worth doing 7B) red or dead and the top shop traverse into it dry, jerrys dry, a lack of colour dry.
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paint it black area soaking
beginers wall soaking
mutton bustting wall soaking
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Could someone post on Tuesday/Wednesday regarding paint it black/working 9/5 conditions
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everything was bonedry at seans roof area, beginers wall mostly dry,
Griff's buttress dry, also theres a few problems there with no names which is rather confusing when i go to log them, can anyone think up something to call them?
http://peakbouldering.info/areas/5-central-limestone/crags/109-blackwell-dale#.U7MtgpRdVpo (http://peakbouldering.info/areas/5-central-limestone/crags/109-blackwell-dale#.U7MtgpRdVpo)
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also the undercut on ovine finally snapped off today
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I took it off to be exact (took very little effort!) as it’s been loose for years and was a nasty explosive dismount waiting to happen. I was intending to glue it back, but the undercut underneath was very similar to the one removed (a nicer hold, totally solid, but a bit less positive) so I’ve left it off. It makes no odds to the difficulty.
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When I did the FA of Ovine, I used the hold that Bonjoy is talking about, and not the undercut, which was wet and muddy. So the fact that the undercut has come off makes no odds. The lower hold is a bit less positive, but pinchy, and solid.
My sitter on the RHS of cave is now called Bovine, plus done a bit of reshuffling on Peak District Bouldering. I think one of the problems on there doesn't exist - couldn't see a way of deleting it.
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It was still there at 17:00 when I did mutton busting! Hope I didn't result in its break as I did use it.
For reference, I did do mutton busting but with a different sequence to the norm. Started on the two beaks, went to the horrible pocket with LH. Then instead of rolling over to the sloper I put a Egyptian in (left knee dropped) and went again with left hand to the side pull crimp as a pinch! Maybe useful for the shorter folk as the other way felt super hard for me!
Hope it's a legit way!
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When I did the FA of Ovine, I used the hold that Bonjoy is talking about, and not the undercut, which was wet and muddy. So the fact that the undercut has come off makes no odds. The lower hold is a bit less positive, but pinchy, and solid.
My sitter on the RHS of cave is now called Bovine, plus done a bit of reshuffling on Peak District Bouldering. I think one of the problems on there doesn't exist - couldn't see a way of deleting it.
Not sure you mean the same hold Ru. By underneath I meant literally touching/obscured by the now deceased bit of rock. I think you might mean the pinchy sidepull about a foot lower. Either way the holdloss is I think an improvement and it doesn't change the difficulty one way or the other.
Dan- it was no looser last night than when I'd tried it yonks ago. You're a braver man than me pulling on it! I took it off with a screw driver but it took bugger all effort. It seemed to be held in place with mud and woodlice only.
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Dan is your vid up anywhere other than Instagram? I'm afraid I don't have the ego necessary to use it
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It was still there at 17:00 when I did mutton busting! Hope I didn't result in its break as I did use it.
For reference, I did do mutton busting but with a different sequence to the norm. Started on the two beaks, went to the horrible pocket with LH. Then instead of rolling over to the sloper I put a Egyptian in (left knee dropped) and went again with left hand to the side pull crimp as a pinch! Maybe useful for the shorter folk as the other way felt super hard for me!
Hope it's a legit way!
I saw the video on your Instagram - how you did it is fine, but it starts lower down, with RH on a crimp (that I think you use for your right foot later on). I think the normal method is not to use the right-hand side pull beak that you go to the pocket off, but I'm not 100% sure. When I first brushed it (and didn't do it) I was trying it off the RH beak, but I didn't have the heel toe in - I was trying to dyno straight through to the slot, with feet cutting, which was (too) hard. I never actually went back to finish this problem off because the other method seemed too reachy - I'll try with your method.
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Not sure you mean the same hold Ru. By underneath I meant literally touching/obscured by the now deceased bit of rock. I think you might mean the pinchy sidepull about a foot lower. Either way the holdloss is I think an improvement and it doesn't change the difficulty one way or the other.
Yeah, that's the hold I was referring to. I was a bit disappointed when everyone started using the undercut.
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I love limestone, no one does anything properly. Go to crag x with mason you can't do something one way go with welford you can't do it that way then go with someone else and you're on the wrong bloody problem! I reckon 70-80% of claims on 9a.boner are invalid
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I saw the video on your Instagram - how you did it is fine, but it starts lower down, with RH on a crimp
Cheers Ru. Yeah sorry Instagram only gives you 15secs so I missed of the start and end just to show the interesting section. You should give it a go, quite fun but hurts your knee a bit. Defo a good way for the shorties!
I love limestone, no one does anything properly. Go to crag x with mason you can't do something one way go with welford you can't do it that way then go with someone else and you're on the wrong bloody problem! I reckon 70-80% of claims on 9a.boner are invalid
Yeah sorry forgot we were in the peak.
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:geek: The day Yorkshire finds some limestone bouldering (or someone tries to write up Kilnsey bouldering for starters) is the day you have the same bollocks. It’s a limestone thing not a Peak thing.
Crag X is an anomaly brought about by the long standing veto on documentation. Word of mouth = Chinese whispers.
I wont mention Almscliff.
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:geek: The day Yorkshire finds some limestone bouldering (or someone tries to write up Kilnsey bouldering for starters) is the day you have the same bollocks. It’s a limestone thing not a Peak thing.
Crag X is an anomaly brought about by the long standing veto on documentation. Word of mouth = Chinese whispers.
I wont mention Almscliff.
In the pipeline my friend. Hopefully going to do a video topo of Kilnsey Bouldering (just for reference, Steve did primitive notion completely differently to how its done these days). A lil bit of Yorkshire Limestone is being developed at the moment!
I were only messing, I am just not sure how not using one hold makes it an invalid ascent?
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Good stuff, knew there must be some out there somewhere. Keen to see the Kilnsey topo.
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So where is Griff's Buttress? Someone once described it to me, but I can't picture it. Is it on the opposite side of the valley to Fossil Wall etc?
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So where is Griff's Buttress? Someone once described it to me, but I can't picture it. Is it on the opposite side of the valley to Fossil Wall etc?
Park for Advanced Training (next layby from Seans Roof). Cross the road, over the fence and you will see a faint track that leads to the buttress.
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http://peakbouldering.info/areas/5-central-limestone/crags/109-blackwell-dale/boulders/534-griff-s-buttress#.U7QKss9OXlY (http://peakbouldering.info/areas/5-central-limestone/crags/109-blackwell-dale/boulders/534-griff-s-buttress#.U7QKss9OXlY)
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Got it - Advanced training is where Neils Wall is... thanks
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A video topo of any lime bouldering would be good. Next stage of evilution obviously
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Wetter than an otter's pocket.
Paint it Black, Working 9-5 et al, absolutely soaked from run off. Jerry's across the road soaked too.
Beginner's Wall mostly wet and Ovine over the road just wet with condensation.
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Every thing seemed dry today on seans roof, red and dead, beginners wall areas (except Sean's roof itself).
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all sectors bone dry, byker groove is dry too which i suspect is quite rare, cleaned it up yesterday and today good problem better than paint it black imo.
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Still dry.
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If anybody heads out today or tomorrow, could they let me know if PIB has survived the recent rain unscathed please. Cheers
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Would really appreciate it if anyone has any idea whether this might be dry (and in particular Blackwell Dale). Thank you.
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it looked dry on tuesday night and it hasn't rained has it? watch out for the very full nappy as you park up.
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Griff's and Black and Deckout Buttresses were all dry on Tuesday. Didn't check the other bits but would expect them to be fully dry also.
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Cheers people - will tread carefully!
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You could heroically take a black plastic bag with you!
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I'd take two bags, it was obviously not a normal baby
(http://wac.450f.edgecastcdn.net/80450F/1027kord.com/files/2011/05/Man-As-Baby1-182x300.jpg)
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it looked dry on tuesday night and it hasn't rained has it? watch out for the very full nappy as you park up.
Scouse D could have done with this reading this before we went the other day.
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Anybody been to have a look at Griff's yesterday???
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I'm guessing it's wet all around here? Anybody got the topo that's linked on Peak Bouldering? I think the link is dead.
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Paint it black lower section up to the break climbable and maybe the top bit too. Sean's roof still damp. Other side of the road bone dry.
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Very dry at seans now, all problems climbable
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Quite a lot of new wetness yesterday. Streaks on Griff's and B&D butresses, a couple of wet bits on Beginners, didn't look further up.
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Wet wet wet?
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Wet wet wet?
Yeah looked it when we drove past yesterday
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Darn! Cheers Jozzer.
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Griff's, Black and Decker, Beginner's all fucked today.
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Anyone been down Griff's, B&D or Beginner's recently? Still knackered?
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Freda's buttress bone dry today
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ace cheers moo, just want to double check that includes infinite suspense?
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Drove past yesterday, Sean's roof side all soaked. Other side of the road streaky but should
be dry today.
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Haydn - Infinite Suspense was totally dry last night and it didn't look like any of the holds would be affected even if the crag does start to seep. There was some very minor seepage on other bits of the crag but nothing affecting problems.
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Has anyone been to beginners today?
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Anyone been Blackwell dale? Any knowledge on conditions much appreciated.
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Anyone been Blackwell dale? Any knowledge on conditions much appreciated.
Didn't go as far as Paint it Black but yesterday afternooon:
Left end of Black and Deckout buttress dry
Ovine etc. wet
Beginners wall area looked very damp but I didn't venture up
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Cress brook dry last night apart from the left hand side. From 'The thing' rightwards was all dry or climbable.
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Tiny bit of damp on the LH starting hold of Paint it Black, otherwise dry.
What would Jerry do etc - dry.
Ovine and Black and Deckout Buttress all dry.
Beginners Wall area still seeping in places, it didn't look like any problems were fully dry.
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Surprisingly good today
PiB wet (more run off than seepage by the looks of it)
Other side of the road all dry
Ovine Buttress mostly dry, odd damp hold on the low starts
Freda's buttress all dry
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Popped by Griff's buttress yesterday, little worse than last week. Ovine etc climbable - only the first left hand hold a little wet. Low left start, Ru's trav damp in places. 1st RH hold on Mint sauce is damp but dryable with some tissues (and the problem is brilliant, maybe the best here).
Didn't look and Paint it Black.
Beginner's wall - didn't go up. Wet streaks but sure some is dry.
Went to Badger cove - hard stuff looks dry. stuff in the back pretty goping. Badger... dry apart from 1st jug and 1 foothold which are only very slightly damp.
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We were at badger last night, all the footholds were dry I think by then (bar a couple we weren't using), as was the start jug if you didn't get too greedy.
The 7b long problem out of the back was filthy though, that could do with a full clean once dry as its great.
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The only wet one was some vertical slot thing I egyptian on at the start and sounds pretty similar on the jug. How'd you get on on it? Setting off there now - fell off the last move 4 times yesterday - but feeling a little worked so not sure how it'll go...
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The vertical egyptian thing was dry but with a trickle of water on the left of it, but we weren't using it.
I was failing to hang the first big pocket move due to not keeping foot on, T_B was failing to hang to second big pocket move.
Looking at the original facebook description it says the problem "finish at the hole above the cave" and the topo line veers left to finish in a hole above the finishing cave on Thread Nicole, so getting the big pocket, then heading up left. I.e. alarmingly high, and away from your pads. Bit of a worry now I've read that.
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Paint it Black was seeping when I was there yesterday. Starting left handhold, right handhold in the top break and the undercut in the roof are all wet. A lot of damp along the bottom of the problems to the left.
Everything on the other side of the road is dry apart from a small streak left of Free Range Abbatoir that won't affect anything. A Lack of Colour is clean and dry.
Bovine on Griff's Buttress all dry yesterday apart from the slots being slightly damp but not enough to be a problem.
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Dave are you on about Badger badger? that does a hard move to an egg shaped pocket (iirc - its been years), then does continue i always thought rather higher than necessary. Sort of on the vert slightly overhanging bit to the right?
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Do any of you know if the road to Wormhill from the bridge at the bottom of the valley is still closed?
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Do any of you know if the road to Wormhill from the bridge at the bottom of the valley is still closed?
Sign said closed when I drove past just now.
Also: Griff's buttress in decent nick except for tiny bit of damp in bottom of starting slot on Ovine. Bovine slots wet. Otherwise fine.
Beginner's Wall had bits of splooge which would affect Swing Time and Man of Steel. Neil's Wall looked dry.
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Cheers ears.
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road was open tonight, i drove through it.
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Dave are you on about Badger badger? that does a hard move to an egg shaped pocket (iirc - its been years), then does continue i always thought rather higher than necessary. Sort of on the vert slightly overhanging bit to the right?
Aye.
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Last night the stuff on the west side of the road in blackwell dale (abattoir wall, jerrys trav etc) was all totally drenched with condensation.
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Last night the stuff on the west side of the road in blackwell dale (abattoir wall, jerrys trav etc) was all totally drenched with condensation.
All dry today.
Left hand starting hold of PiB is wet and the break's a bit damp.
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Griff's etc all generally fine last night. A few random holds a bit mingy.
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All completely bone dry tonight [emoji106]
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Taa Eddies. Most useful for tomorrow.
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Anyone able to hazard a guess as to how Griff's will be tomorrow? Long drive you see.
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Anyone able to hazard a guess as to how Griff's will be tomorrow? Long drive you see.
I'd bet its bone dry right now. But it looks like its about to piss down for a while... One of those it could remain dry, or could get soaked situations...
I realise thats no help.. sorry :(
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It's been breezy and not too warm. Probs dry, but might be muggy i.e. bad connies in the trees. Hard to say.
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Was good last night down there... fair bit cooler and not humid despite no breeze.
Might all change this afternoon tho as rain forecast.
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Well if anyone happens to be there this eve....
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Well if anyone happens to be there this eve....
Ovine buttress dry this afternoon but not great conditions in the trees. Much better up at paint it black which was all dry too as of 6pm when I left.
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Cheers mate
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PiB and RoD areas still all dry this morning, no visible effect of yesterday's rain
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Came dangerously close to snapping the starting hold of woah black betty. Flexes somewhat now...
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Griff's was more or less dry yesterday (sat). The good sidepull on the trav was a bit wet. A few heavy showers while I was there but seemed to get caught by the trees!
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Looking at the forecast though that might be it for peak lime for this year...
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Beginners wall all completely dry this lunchtime. I suspect much of the lime in Blackwell will be OK too based on this...
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Griff's etc dry yesterday.
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Stopped by on the drive home in case anyone was interested - PiB and Jerry's traverse best described as spoogy
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Anyone had a play on Ovine today? Thinking of heading there tomorrow but not sure how it holds up after rain
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I'm guessing it will be fine
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Cheers Mark :thumbsup:
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I went yesterday avo. Was all dry apart from a lil bit of damp in the back of the starting diagonal crimp.
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Cheers, just got back, all good, as was PIB and beginners. Ovine's a class problem!
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Griff's still all good, people were on Beginner's and PiB / Jerry's both looked dry from the road although I didn't stop at them.
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anyone have a look today?
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Griff's etc pretty dry this avo.
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Is there a topo kicking round for Griff's anywhere ?
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Griff's and BnD are in the BMC Northern Lime Guide
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Thanks bonjoy. Thought that was just a guide to the sport. Will hunt one down. :)
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The stuff lower down the dale which has been climbed since the guide came out is detailed on PB.info http://www.peakbouldering.info/areas/5-central-limestone/crags/109-blackwell-dale/boulders/1104-lower-blackwell-dale#.Vf_0_d9VhBc
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BTW the two bolted routes further down the dale are my work. The RH one is 7c+, the left is an ongoing proj.
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Anyone been Blackwell since the rain earlier this week? Especially Griff's?
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No, but the tor and cheedale were dry yesterday so I'd be very surprised if Griffs was wet.
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You were right Ru, all dry yesterday. Badger cove all dry too apparently.
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Anybody been here of late? Don't suppose it's looking like it might be dry for Easter?
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Also, does anyone have a topo for griff's? Not that I'm planning on climbing on private land.
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Find me a picture and i'll draw one
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Cheers Haydn.
Anyone got a picture?
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I doubt stuff on Griffs will be dry. You're more likely to find dryness on Black N Deckout buttress. BnD and Young Gifted and Black are the obvious choices, both a bit highball, more pads and a spot useful.
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Cheers for the knowledge. Young, Gifted and Black looks incredible but also terrifying. As I'm likely to be on a solo mission, I'll give it a swerve! Will things like Red or Dead and WWJD? likely to be dry too?
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Red or dead is usually pretty dry. The finishing hold may be damp. Its all worth a look as raven tor and rubicon are only mext door so if all else fails you can go there
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That was the plan. Do I need wellies or speedos for Rubicon at the moment?
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Take wellies but probably not. Better safe than sorry
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Might take the speedos anyway, just climb in them, that's what Jerry would do. Thanks for the info!
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If you're looking for alternative dry lime Sheep Shifter in Cavedale is probably dry, steep enough to be safe from any rain and (shameless promotion of own problem aside) is mint.
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Tideswell Dale is another good bet. Just round the corner from the Tor and often dry when other things are seeping.
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Whoa, whoa, I can't hear anything through the noise of all these own trumpets being blown! ;)
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(http://wonderopolis.org/_img?img=/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/Wonder-66-Trumpet-Static-Image.jpg)
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What day are you planning to get out ANDY?
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On Friday at least, probably further days TOMTOM.
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Sorry - phone makes your name in caps for some reason!
Might be out in fri or sat - unsure what I'm allowed at the moment :)
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Give us a shout!
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Jerry's traverse side all ok.
Seepage on the other side - pretty good at the place up the road we don't mention as well...
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Ovine looked dry from the car too but this is no guarantee!
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Ovine was wet thursday but mint sauce is dry and clean
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Any updates on state of Griff's would be appreciated.
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Griff's was soaked today but it looked like run off rather than seepage.
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Does anyone know how the paint it black area or beginners wall is looking at the moment?
Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
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Anyone go to this area today? Griff's dry?
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Anyone been recently??
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I was there yesterday. Jerry's traverse all dry. Beginners wall had quite a few wet holds. Paint It Black looked fairly dry but with a couple of small wet streaks, the problems on the wall to the left looked dry on the whole.
HTH.
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did yoot's maneuver today, mint climb all dry and clean now, also cleaned up giant haystacks, 7c+ and 8b if you've not heard of them, don't expect push overs there both hard as nails, thought yoot's maneuver might even be 8a, but maybe i'm just weak :weakbench:
Anyway, get on them, there ***!
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also is there anyway to change the thread title to just "Blackwell dale" since everyone just posts the conditions on this thread anyway
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did yoot's maneuver today, mint climb all dry and clean now, also cleaned up giant haystacks, 7c+ and 8b if you've not heard of them, don't expect push overs there both hard as nails, thought yoot's maneuver might even be 8a, but maybe i'm just weak :weakbench:
Anyway, get on them, there ***!
Who, what, where are these probs Haydn?? Love that valley but never heard of these...
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http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=26369.0
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How was Griff's looking Haydn?
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How was Griff's looking Haydn?
Speaking to some folk at the crag no-one talks about yesterday, and they said large parts of BWD (inc Ovine/Bovine etc..) were still pretty wet...
Thats a bit of a 'overheard a bloke at the pub, who's auntys dog had been' etc... report... soz.
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Yea i checked it out and its wet. Wouldnt be surprised if its dry by next weekend though
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Anyone been recently??
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Last night Paint it Black and Jerry's Trav, Red or Dead area was dry but sweaty.
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Anyone been lately?
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Looked to be wet tonight as I drove past on my way to the Tor... Big wet streak down it. Were a few folk parked there when I drive back so you might get an accurate connies report later!
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Anyone know what Jerry's was like last night? Thinking of going this pm but concerned about potential goppage.
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Monkey boy reported that griffs was soaked yesterday on the facebook group. Jerry's is usually a safer bet though isn't it?
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Yes Jerry's is typically the first to dry... But it has rained in Buxton a fair bit today (roads are still wet) and it's warm out so a high chance of condensation
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Any had a look at these recently - in particular griff's
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Griffs was dry saturday
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Cheers Haydn - appreciate it.
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it probably has limited relevance, but today Rubicon was dryer than a very dry thing, that had been dry for a very long time.
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I'd be interested to know if anyone checks out PiB area this evening, specifically the Working 9-5 holds. Gopptastic or surprisingly dry?
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Anyone checked out griffs recently?
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Beginners wall was utterly condensed on Tuesday like a hose pipe had been turned on. Raven same apparently. Rubicon traverses unclimbable but not so wet but Kudos wall was fine though. Anything likely to be climeable today?
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It will be very similar today i reckon. I'm not bothering going out.
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It will be very similar today i reckon. I'm not bothering going out.
Me too. Same reason.
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Thanks guys. But frustrating, after yesterday's enforced rest day I was hoping to get out......
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Thinking of a quickie PM session on PIB tomorrow, can anyone who's passing between now and then let me know if it's looking wet or not please.
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Was dry on Tuesday
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Cheers, was there myself Weds and dry then too, more wondering how it held up after weds nights downpour.
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It was bone last night
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Great, thanks
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Tor and Rubers were bone today too.
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Both sides of the road at Sean's roof in good nick as of 5pm
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Interested in conditions on the other side of the road (red or dead) and at beginners if anyone visits today or has an informed opinion. Ta.
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Yesterday Beginners and Sean's roof were both utterly minted - never seen them that good apart from damp finishing jugs at Sean's..
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Probably worth adding then that by 6pm last night there was quite a bit of seepage around paint it black. All the crucial holds were dry, but the starting right foot and left thumb pinvh needed drying between attempts. Byker groove was basically a stream. It didn't evolve much between 6 and 9pm.
However the forecast looks dry for the next few days so fingers crossed.
Other side of the road was syill bone.
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Anyone been to Griffs in the past week? Dry?
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Word in from Measles23: Sean's, over the road, griffs, beginners. All in good to great condition right now
:thumbsup:
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Word in from Measles23: Sean's, over the road, griffs, beginners. All in good to great condition right now
:thumbsup:
As in today?
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As in today?
Yes indeed
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Sweet! Hopefully it will be even better tomorrow!
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Yup was all tres bon down the dale today, no condensation just one or two slightly damp but easily dryable holds..
Even the low stuff at Griffs looked doable - mutton bustin ok, ru's ok, rich's not - never seen rich's anything other than gopping
Enjoy!
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Sean's Roof itself and the low start :-\ pretty damp this pm. Other stuff exceptionally bone. -1C in the dale so could be condenstastic tonight? Depends what you're getting on...
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Ru's traverse fine last night, a bit damp down the back of some holds but nothing game changing. Bovine slots seeping tho. Sean's roof area still essentially dry though the moisture in some holds threatening to soak out, get it while u can
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Bovine slots are always seeping aren't they ;)
#neverseenthemdry
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Driest I have ever seen Griff's today, although there was still some dampness in the back of slots.
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The whole dale gopping today - I only mention it because of surprisingly good connies at Tor and rubicon..
X also unsurprisingly soaked
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Red or dead and Jerry's traverse bone dry yesterday.
Paint it Black had a lot of dry holds but still a couple in seepage lines. I reckon it would be good if the weather stayed dry another few days. To the left most, most things had wet starts.
Lots of seepage on beginner's and Griff's still.
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Be interested to know how Griff's is after all the rain if anyone drops by in the next few days... ta!
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The whole Dale was soaking on Tuesday..
Griff's looked ok from a distance but on close inspection all holds wet - I tried drying holds and pulled on there, but a poor session..
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There's a tiny bit of seepage at griffs today but everything was climbable, pretty humid though but I expect it'll stay dry enough.
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Anyone been recently? Or know if the back to black crimp/pocket in the roof is dry yet?
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PiB was dry thurs but b2b crimp wet. Obvs humidity means the whole thing now likely to be gopping!
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Holds on PiB were all dry earlier today according to Facebook group, but some damp patches in between. Sunday morning it the damp streaks were still on the holds so it's obviously been drying rather than vice versa.
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Everything at Sean's roof and the other side of the road were bone dry as of 6pm today.
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The road from millers dale is currently blocked for roadworks at the point of the right hand turn off up to the old train station.
Does anyone know if Blackwell dale bouldering can be reached from the other side? Chances are that the whole road is blocked off from the other direction too but wondered if anyone knew for sure.
Ta
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Left in a rush on Tuesday and forgot my brush on a stick and my strap at Beginner's Wall.
If anyone sees them there, can you stash them out the way and I'll pick them up this evening. Cheers.
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Thanks to whoever left the strap.
But if you are going to nick the brush, you could have at least taken the finger tape that tied it to the stick rather than littering the crag. :wank:
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Will this likely be wet at the weekend? A fair amount of rain this week (and forecast), how much is needed for it to start seeping?
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Will this likely be wet at the weekend? A fair amount of rain this week (and forecast), how much is needed for it to start seeping?
I’m thinking the same about Lime for the weekend... Its due to rain shit loads this afternoon (just started in Manc) and on Friday night (I think) so its a tough one to call. Its all been bone dry - and may survive a dousing - or may not. Beginners wall is the most seep resistant one of the crags up the dale as I understand it...?
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If someone is able to predict the conditions of PiB area then they're probably some kind of millionaire spread better or some such who has no interest in climbing. Possibly the most goppy chunk of rock in the Peak bar the black streak of Black Crow at Anston.
Everywhere else will be mint. It's September remember.
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Anyone know first hand what state Griff's buttress is in currently? Went on Tue and it was pretty seepy but not a million miles away, just wondered if anyone had been yesterday / today?
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Apparently, Buxton had the most rainfall ever recorded in a day last weekend and it's been wet this week. My guess is it's wet.
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Heard today that it's soaked at Griff's at the moment
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Thanks both :) Will try elsewhere
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Didn't go to the crag to check but looked very streaky from the road. Beginners the same
Some stuff around the cave ok at the Tor although it's pretty drippy. Powerband are wet, Kristians and beyond possibly ok
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Anyone got any up to date connies knowledge on griffs? Or squirrel buttress (off topic I know!).
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Anyone got any up to date connies knowledge on griffs? Or squirrel buttress (off topic I know!).
No idea about Griffs, PIB was very wet yesterday though
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Cheers, I'll leave it a bit then.
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Griffs looked dry when driving past today and some people were there.
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Oh, cheers dave, maybe I'll go for a gander tomorrow then!
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Anyone in the know on blackwell/rubbishcon/x in general?
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Anyone in the know on blackwell/rubbishcon/x in general?
For today? It will all have been dry (PIB drying) before yesterday but not sure how the humidity will have affected things. Windy, sun and showers here in Sheffield but was proper raining this morning.
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Cheers Dave... Trying to decide whether to risk it :-\
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I reckon at least one of those venues would be ok.
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I'm gonna risk Blackwell this evening heading out now.
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Greesy as fuck not worth the drive oh well. Not seepy. But wouldn't be surprised if it starts seeping tmrw
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Anyone been recently? I'm suspecting gopping after all this rain.
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Most things were climbable yesterday afternoon. The only things that were particularly wet were Sean's, naughty corner, floodgates and Me eyes Me eyes.
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Hugely optimistic probably, but has anywhere survived the deluge and might dry out in today's stiff breeze?
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Sorry late reply but the dale looked okay today
Plenty in and around chee dale on two tier and max wall and embankment was fine
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The dale’s survived surprisingly well - went today:
Most at Sean’s looked ok apart from floodgates; over the road looked fine; Griff’s was in good condition throughout apart from bovine slots..