UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: slackline on May 17, 2013, 02:17:11 pm
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Anyone know if Alex visited North Wales as hinted at (https://twitter.com/McHaffieJames/status/332554539720904707)?
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Hope not. I'm looking forward to seeing The Man That Follows Hell flashed when I meet up with pete D in the 'jura next weekend.
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Think the DMM German team are arriving early next week. Pete R has used his Mathematical Oceanography degree to sort the tides out so that Megos can flash all of LPT. Caff was scared he wouldn't be the best climber in North Wales so is leaving on Sunday night ;)
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Think the DMM German team are arriving early next week. Pete R has used his Mathematical Oceanography degree to sort the tides out so that Megos can flash all of LPT. Caff was scared he wouldn't be the best climber in North Wales so is leaving on Sunday night ;)
Petes going too! I can't show him the moves on the 8c+s, I can't do them. You're gonna have to come Ben.....
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So the second best climber in the world comes to Wales, sponsored by DMM, and the two local DMM-sponsored sport-climbing wads (amongst other feats) aren't even there to give him the tour, point him at the few 8c+'s and 9a's that we have and give him beta for flash attempts? Who organised that?! Seems like a rather momentous opportunity missed for some historic flashes, unless he onsights everything instead.
And half the best sport-climbing in N.Wales doesn't open until August. FFS! ::)
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Don't think he will need showing how to do them to be honest..... Hahahah
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I'll even let him have The Big Crunch if he promises to keep the name :icon_beerchug:
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Über Crunchen
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According to DMM's Twitter account he did the Fred Nicole roof project at Porth Ysgo today!!! Waddage!
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Alex Megos has apparently climbed the Fred Nicole Roof Project at Porth Ysgo Linky (https://twitter.com/dmmclimbing/status/338743384917291008)
Uber-waddage!
Wasn't this was mentioned as a long-standing project in Pantontino's 2004 guide?
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aye big news !
good effort indeed its bene tried by many and rumoured to be around the 8b mark wouldnt be suprised if a plus gets put at the end!
hopefully theres footage!
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I remember watching Dolph try this. It's really hard. Good work.
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Not bad for a sport onsighter!
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According to DMM's twitter account Left Wall is E2/3
Classic Welsh cragging day for the team. Alex Megos learning the art of wire placements on Left Wall E2/3 5c
Can we believe anything they say? Or is that the direct finish in the picture?
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Pilgrimage next?
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with his ability and keenness for onsighting it's quite exciting to think what might be if he takes a fancy to trad bumbling.
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Write-up of Megos at Porth Ysgo http://dmmclimbing.com/news/2013/05/megos-sends-wales-ultimate-problem/ (http://dmmclimbing.com/news/2013/05/megos-sends-wales-ultimate-problem/)
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Shocking name for a classic Mondo... Was raining today so he went to Parisellas and did 4 8as. Still gutted he didn't have a decent LPT session..... :(
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Was raining today ... Still gutted he didn't have a decent LPT session.
He wouldn't have been any better off at home. Six degrees & pissing down in the 'jura yesterday, and more of much the same forecast for the coming holiday weekend :(
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Spotted him at tremadog yesterday, didn't see him climb anything though. Some others were trying strawberries, saw Felix (Neumärker?) cruise to the top and then jump off for some reason..
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Shocking name for a classic
Agreed, I thought Right Said Fred was perfect...
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Agreed, I thought Right Said Fred was perfect...
Yeah, that was the point of naming Mike's original line Left Said Fred... to enable that. I don't know, the guy might be able to onsight 9a, but if you can't work a 90's pop song reference into a problem name, who cares about all that talent and training.
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He wasn't even born when that song came out :lol:
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Just to get a few things straight in my head....
1. Fred Nicole has never been anywhere near that roof - its pre-name came because someone said "thats so bloody hard, it'll take Fred Nicole to do it" etc.. (or words along those lines)
2. Someone then names the prob to the left of it left said fred..
3. Now someone comes along, does the problem (that has no association with Fred Nicole whatsoever) and calls it Das Pumpenhaus?
So whats the problem?
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The problem is Das Pumpenhausen Testpiece is a terrible , terrible name for the best hard problem in Wales :furious: :lol:
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The problem is Das Pumpenhausen Testpiece is a terrible , terrible name for the best hard problem in Wales :furious: :lol:
I was going to disagree with you - but Ysgo (from my only two visits) has some pretty cool names IIRC...
Its not that bad a name.... not like 'big roof' or something bland like that & it wont get mistaken for any other problem names there!
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The problem is Das Pumpenhausen Testpiece is a terrible , terrible name for the best hard problem in Wales :furious: :lol:
It is a shocking name... Funnier if you shout it though, DAS PUMPENHAUSEN! :lol:
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It would be fine for some nondescript new problem but this is an iconic line in these parts. We'll just have to suck it up I guess. Maybe it's a good job he didn't do the LpT proj :smart:
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Doylo is right on the money here!
Roof right of Ogwen Jazz next?? (I forgot the bloody craglet name!)
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Was raining today so he went to Parisellas and did 4 8as.
My girlfriend speaks german and said he was describing something he was climbing as "childishly easy". She thought this was quite an amusing contrast to the descriptions I was using. :lol:
When the world's best climbers are teenagers, crap names for cutting edge climbs is always going to be a risk I suppose. Consider the sobering prospect of Ashima coming over and naming the Brandenburg Gate project "Justin Bieber wall".
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It would be fine for some nondescript new problem but this is an iconic line in these parts. We'll just have to suck it up I guess. Maybe it's a good job he didn't do the LpT proj :smart:
Did he make it down to LPT? Is he still over here at the moment?
Doylo is right on the money here!
Roof right of Ogwen Jazz next?? (I forgot the bloody craglet name!)
Caseg Fraith
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Disappointing conditions for a visit by one of the world's best climbers and a reminder, if anyone needs it, of how much effort it can take to find good conditions in this fucking country. It would have made more sense to come to N.Wales in August or September when at least there are more sport crag options, and a higher probability of good weather - I was walking underneath the Diamond on the day Megos bailed from a greasy LPT, it was properly mint conditions there in the afternoon sun.
I quite like that one of the hardest and most sought-after problems in Wales has a bollocks German name. Could always just re-name it to Megos Roof.
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I quite like that one of the hardest and most sought-after problems in Wales has a bollocks German name. Could always just re-name it to Megos Roof.
The power of the guidebook writer :bow:
May have chosen the wrong emoticon :-\
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He did Statement and bailed. I'm sure it'll get a aka in the guide.
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Das Pumpenhausen sounds ok to me. It's all a bit Maginot Line/La Plafond changing names of thing put up by foreigners if you ask me. Having a name you're not happy with is the price you pay for a local not getting it done ;)
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The guy who did it gave it a name, that's its name
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Pantons not actually going to change the name, he's not that autocratic. It is a shit name though
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Das Pumpenhausen sounds ok to me. It's all a bit Maginot Line/La Plafond changing names of thing put up by foreigners if you ask me. Having a name you're not happy with is the price you pay for a local not getting it done ;)
Yup. I like the name, I think the name sounds like something someone woud say in a crap german pr0n film;
"Is't das un Pumpenhousen?"
"Ja Ja"
"UUGH UUGH, Icht Kommen!"
etc.
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Das Pumpenhausen sounds ok to me. It's all a bit Maginot Line/La Plafond changing names of thing put up by foreigners if you ask me. Having a name you're not happy with is the price you pay for a local not getting it done ;)
Yup. I like the name, I think the name sounds like something someone woud say in a crap german pr0n film;
"Is't das un Pumpenhousen?"
"Ja Ja"
"UUGH UUGH, Icht Kommen!"
etc.
This just get's funnier! :lol:
Also sounds like the name of an early Schwarzenegger movie...
Arnold Schwarzenegger in... DAS PUMPENHAUSEN!
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The guy who did it gave it a name, that's its name
Technically speaking you are correct, however it doesn't always work out like that. Anybody remember what Katz called the Caseg Groove sds? No, I didn't think so. (clue: it was a rubbish, embarassing name, which quickly faded from view)
I've done a suitably over-the-top write up to commemorate this historic moment in Welsh bouldering:
http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=664 (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=664)
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The problem is Das Pumpenhausen Testpiece is a terrible , terrible name for the best hard problem in Wales :furious: :lol:
I agree. Rubbish. :thumbsdown:
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The guy who did it gave it a name, that's its name
Technically speaking you are correct, however it doesn't always work out like that. Anybody remember what Katz called the Caseg Groove sds? No, I didn't think so. (clue: it was a rubbish, embarassing name, which quickly faded from view)
I've done a suitably over-the-top write up to commemorate this historic moment in Welsh bouldering:
http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=664 (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=664)
Good write up Si!
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I dont get it, what's in a name? The roof by any other name would still climb as sweet.
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I quite like that one of the hardest and most sought-after problems in Wales has a bollocks German name. Could always just re-name it to Megos Roof.
The power of the guidebook writer :bow:
May have chosen the wrong emoticon :-\
Hard to know who's the bigger control freak out of guidebook writers and climbing forum owners :tease:
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I like it, its funny. It probably wouldn't be funny if it hadn't named by a German; but it was, so it is.
Mind you, I'm not local and have nothing 'invested' in the problem.
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I didn't realise the "testpiece" on the end was part of the name. Now I agree it's shit.
I vote the "testpiece" bit at the end be struck from the record m'lud.
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The 'Testpiece' bit is the name's crowning glory.
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I think he probably put Testpiece on the end in order to be sensitive to the idea that it was the Hardest problem in N Wales. In the same way that when one paths a problem that somebody has been trying for ages you are obliged to say "that was good" or "that was interesting" to validate the fact they are trying some thing worth trying even though you found it easy.
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I think its more likely he's just having a bit of a laugh.
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Just be thankful he didn't follow the Ben Moon in France naming strategy and called it Dunkirk, British Expeditionary Force or Blitzkrieg.
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It sounds like "The House of Pump Testpiece"... A bit weird, coming from a youth? I wonder if it could be a quote of "Pumprisse", the frst route given the VII grade, by Reinhard Karl.
:shrug:
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(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_AMwSIn4QEgI/TDUw1XRg1_I/AAAAAAAAAKU/qIUI58vf-js/s1600/austin-powers%20penis%20pump.jpg)
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Egg-sactly.
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Does it refer to this guy (https://en-gb.facebook.com/public/Ebeneezer-Rupert-Elroy-Von-Pumpenhausen-III)?
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In that case would have been better to name it Johann Gambolputty de von Ausfernschplendenschlittercrasscrenbonfrieddiggerdangledunglebursteinvonknackerthrasherapplebangerhorowitzticolensicgranderknottyspelltinklegrandlichgrumblemeyerspelterwasserkürstlichhimbleeisenbahnwagengutenabendbitteeinenürnberger bratwurstlegerspurtenmitzweimacheluberhundsfutgumberabershönendankerkalbsfleischmittlerraucher von Hautkopft of Ulm.
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In that case would have been better to name it Johann Gambolputty de von Ausfernschplendenschlittercrasscrenbonfrieddiggerdangledungleburstein vonknackerthrasher applebangerhorowitzticolensicgranderknottyspelltinklegrandlichgrumblemeyerspelterwasserkürstlichhimbleeisenbahnwagengutenabendbitteeinenürnberger bratwurstlegerspurtenmitzweimacheluberhundsfutgumberabershönendankerkalbsfleischmittlerraucher von Hautkopft of Ulm.
:lol: Von Knacker Thrasher
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And his wife, Sarah Gambolputty de von........
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Is it near a pump house?
What is the reference?
Looks like a good line.
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And his wife, Sarah Gambolputty de von........
lazy git.
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Das Pumpenhausen sounds ok to me. It's all a bit Maginot Line/La Plafond changing names of thing put up by foreigners if you ask me. Having a name you're not happy with is the price you pay for a local not getting it done ;)
Yup. I like the name, I think the name sounds like something someone Dobbin would say in a crap german pr0n film acsent;
"Is't das un Pumpenhousen?"
"Ja Ja"
"UUGH UUGH, Icht Kommen!"
etc.
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I've just had the name explained to me - apparently they were thinking of joke names for the sponsored German climbers Welsh visit and came up with all sorts of dodgy pr0n-sounding names (The Pumpen fest etc) - so the Fred Nicole Roof was the Test Piece of the festival.
I'm told Pumpenhaussen is not a real German word, but it certainly sounds like one.
Pete said he'd try to talk Alex out of it tonight. Fingers crossed, he agrees.
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It's scary when my daft ramblings are actually right.
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Just let the kid name it whatever he wants, it's not the end of the world and it's a better name than the majority of new route names that get churned out these days which strongly lack imagination
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I've just had the name explained to me - apparently they were thinking of joke names for the sponsored German climbers Welsh visit and came up with all sorts of dodgy pr0n-sounding names (The Pumpen fest etc) - so the Fred Nicole Roof was the Test Piece of the festival.
I'm told Pumpenhaussen is not a real German word, but it certainly sounds like one.
Pete said he'd try to talk Alex out of it tonight. Fingers crossed, he agrees.
Makes it feel a little better that it's something to do with pr0n.
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Pete said he'd try to talk Alex out of it tonight. Fingers crossed, he agrees.
I vote for Pumpenhausen. We all get a vote, right?
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Just let the kid name it whatever he wants, it's not the end of the world and it's a better name than the majority of new route names that get churned out these days which strongly lack imagination
:agree:
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I say we just do what the french did with sharma and biography, ignore his daft realisation name and call it whatever they want.
It's our country after all so fuck him.
(devils advocate)
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Apparently (from the NWB write up) its next to willys crack..... So I think a pron sounding name is in keeping with the area....
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First ascent allows naming rights, I think the name discussion is missing the important part about this post.
This is a world class bloc problem and big news in Wales especially after the amount of beasts that have tried this problem, great looking problem and great ascent regardless of the name
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I say we just do what the french did with sharma and biography, ignore his daft realisation name and call it whatever they want.
It's our country after all so fuck him.
(devils advocate)
Yeah whoever bolted it gets to name it. Who was the "equiper"?!
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Are we really having a three page debate about the name of a problem??
I vote we all get a grip...
I actually think the name is quite amusing, I dread to think what self-indulgent bollocks I'd have come up with when I was a teenager. But regardless of whether I like the name or not I think it would be a bit shit to re-name it.
Or...
Wot Dense sed.
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The only difference between dolerite and gabbro is crystal size (I think)...
Anyway, this is how the peninsula reacted when it heard the terrible name... (http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-wales-22699004)
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I think that was caused by hundreds of jaws hitting the floor at the same time.
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I think it should be called Megos Goes to Albuquerque.
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Such is the punishment for it falling to a raider!
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Alex Megos First Ascent of Das Pumpenhausen Testpiece 8B in North Wales - EpicTV Climbing Daily (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ogzO5b1T4Ug#ws)
Edit my bad thought it was a video of it, its just someone saying he did it.
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Alex Megos First Ascent of Das Pumpenhausen Testpiece 8B in North Wales - EpicTV Climbing Daily (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ogzO5b1T4Ug#ws)
Edit my bad thought it was a video of it, its just someone saying he did it.
:lol: That's the funniest thing I've seen in ages! I had no idea there was a John Craven's Newsround type thing for climbing. Was almost expecting a weather report for different climbing areas and and some 'in other news'-style footage of a family pet dancing in front of the X-factor at the end.
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Great effort seeing this climbed. I "discovered" Ysgo in '93 (having no knowledge that Al Hughes and Perrin had been there before) when scouting for surfing breaks, climbed a few easy lines and came back to Sheffield to tell Ben, Jerry and Jason that there was this massive boulder field with several mega lines, this one included. They didn't believe me and we had no mats at the time either.
The lad's done good. Let him have his name....
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This just goes to show how apologist the UK has become, the last time the germans tried to come over here and rename everything we sacked Berlin
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Wasn't there a furore about Ryan calling his route Berry Gerwick (or was it Gerty Berwick?)? Fuck it, some routes have shit names, some have good ones. To be fair no-one's ever going to top Conan the Librarian, so why bother?
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Gerty Berwick - it's supposedly carved in the rock nearby. I always thought something like "Couldn't be Dunne" would have been apt given the history of the route.
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Das Pumpenhausen FA vid
Das Pumpenhausen First Ascent on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/70930275)
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Das Pumpenhausen FA vid
Das Pumpenhausen First Ascent on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/70930275)
"When I first saw the problem I thought what a bullshit..."
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Classic. Black rock in the tidal zone doesn't look appealing when the seas just gone out
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Wow, he comes off as a boring douchebag.
Most wads get a lot of exposure as they progress, so when they are finally in the public eye they have an idea of how to present themselves.
Dave Graham, Nalle are interesting to listen to even outside of their climbing. Even Ondra, who I think most people can agree doesn't have much "natural appeal" is learning how to present to the camera and his videos are enjoyable to watch even outside the climbing - he's just a class act these days.
Hopefully MegoWad improves as time goes on, or the editing gets a lot better so we don't have to hear him talk so much.
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You what? They asked him to talk about the problem, not tell a funny. And in a foreign language.
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Wow, he comes off as a boring douchebag.
Most wads get a lot of exposure as they progress, so when they are finally in the public eye they have an idea of how to present themselves.
Dave Graham, Nalle are interesting to listen to even outside of their climbing. Even Ondra, who I think most people can agree doesn't have much "natural appeal" is learning how to present to the camera and his videos are enjoyable to watch even outside the climbing - he's just a class act these days.
Hopefully MegoWad improves as time goes on, or the editing gets a lot better so we don't have to hear him talk so much.
Hopefully he'll get Morecambe and Wise to do his narrative next time, after all they are a class act and enjoyable to watch outside their climbing..... ::)
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Calling him a douchebag for not entertaining you with his dialect and presenting style is very harsh. The rest of them are hardly a joy to watch (Dave Graham is the exception).
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Wow, he comes off as a boring douchebag.
So you want all top climbers to be well schooled media savy entertainers? What a boring world that would be. There are already enough generic soundbites " Looks like a cool problem, I was psyched to try it, it was really hard but I put it all together and got the send, definatley a proud line blah blah blah"
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Wow, he comes off as a boring douchebag.
Bit harsh eh? Kids still young enough his voice is just breaking...
I was too busy thinking how great all the moves looked!
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A douchebag! Very harsh I reckon.
Personally I thought he came across well - young psyched climber talking in a non-native language.
As to Dave G and Nalle, I am not that keen on any of them talking that much to be honest, they are not exactly great thinkers just amazing crimpers.
Dave
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I went to an early chris sharma lecture in bishop that was so dull 25% of the people left before the end. Id sassy world class climbers who are genuinely entertaining are quite a small minority.
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I hope that was spur of the moment davo?
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sorry guys, didn't have my morning coffee when i wrote that.
I had just finished watching some videos of some beautiful Irish climbing and the latest 3 Strings Production. None of these films had amazing climbers or super hard testpieces yet they were each inspiring - they made you want to get out and climb!
And then i clicked play on this - the video of one of the FA of (from what i can tell) britain's most historic bouldering lines and it starts off with him calling the problem "shit".
It seemed plain disrespectful and after watching a few more minutes and the climbing footage not being particularly better than what most of you guys put out, that was just my immediate opinion. Too harsh? in hindsight yes, but I just feel like for a line that has history to it and for possibly the worlds best climber right now, the video could have been done better.
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sorry guys, didn't have my morning coffee when i wrote that.
I had just finished watching some videos of some beautiful Irish climbing and the latest 3 Strings Production. None of these films had amazing climbers or super hard testpieces yet they were each inspiring - they made you want to get out and climb!
And then i clicked play on this - the video of one of the FA of (from what i can tell) britain's most historic bouldering lines and it starts off with him calling the problem "shit".
It seemed plain disrespectful and after watching a few more minutes and the climbing footage not being particularly better than what most of you guys put out, that was just my immediate opinion. Too harsh? in hindsight yes, but I just feel like for a line that has history to it and for possibly the worlds best climber right now, the video could have been done better.
I didn't find it disrespectful, honest more like. Would you prefer he lied and said it had taken his breath away even though it was dank and greasy?
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Another point that this video brings up sort of peripherally is the issue of visiting globetrotting wads showing up and mopping up local projects. Video aside, I'd much rather this project had gone to a local who'd invested a bit personally and emotionally into it and the crag in general. Thoughts etc?
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Another point that this video brings up sort of peripherally is the issue of visiting globetrotting wads showing up and mopping up local projects. Video aside, I'd much rather this project had gone to a local who'd invested a bit personally and emotionally into it and the crag in general. Thoughts etc?
I'd rather a local like Pete or Nodder had done it but it didn't look like happening any time soon so in that case i find it more inspiring the climb becoming a reality rather than just sit their for X years. There's plenty of newies for local climbers to get stuck into. Pete Robins has done some great 8b first ascents and Nodder has some quality FAs. If a local isn't going to do in the near future i'd rather someone did.
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Another point that this video brings up sort of peripherally is the issue of visiting globetrotting wads showing up and mopping up local projects. Video aside, I'd much rather this project had gone to a local who'd invested a bit personally and emotionally into it and the crag in general. Thoughts etc?
:agree:
Not sure whether it was anyone's personal project or just a line waiting to be grabbed, but I'd be pissed off if someone came along and bombed up a line I'd been looking at and trying. Not that projects should be permanently and exclusively reserved forever for the person trying it, but if someone has cleaned and been trying a problem and people know this, it's only respectful to leave it to them for a bit.
I've seen climbers back off projects when they know others have been trying it (even though it was within their abilities), and this works well.
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I've actually warmed to the name now (without Testpiece on the end) :-[
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Another point that this video brings up sort of peripherally is the issue of visiting globetrotting wads showing up and mopping up local projects.
Nothing compared to this multiple project giveaway
http://www.climbing.co.za/2013/07/wow-prow-topo/ (http://www.climbing.co.za/2013/07/wow-prow-topo/)
I would have had saucepan lids and padlocks all over it.
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Interview and video with Megos here (from when he visited for CWIF):
http://dmmclimbing.com/news/2014/05/gimme-kraft-one-week-alex-megos-uk-vid/ (http://dmmclimbing.com/news/2014/05/gimme-kraft-one-week-alex-megos-uk-vid/)
Does anyone know why he's so keen NOT to go to LPT (see 19:35 in video)?
Guess he didn't rate the place when he visited Wales last year...
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I heard it's becuase he's scared of old people and so the drive through Llandudno left him in pieces, and it was wet.
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Ummm, because he thinks it's shit? - is that what the film is supposed to be cheekily suggesting :shrug:
Good film, really cool to see him having a good experience in the UK, better than the last visit.
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What did Doylo do to him?! :o
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What did Doylo do to him?! :o
Pumped him in his house with his testpiece?
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I wished I'd told him his bulge was big now...
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He wasnt effusive about Peak lime either :D
His description of climbing at Raven Tor reminded me of how you might politely describe an unappealing blind date....
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He wasnt effusive about Peak lime either :D
Ondra kind of hinted the same thing to me. Cant remember the exact wording but it was along the lines of Ravens tor is shite and he wouldn't bother coming to the UK if it wasn't for malham and kilnsey, which are both world class.
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His Action Directe send:
Alexander Megos Action Directe on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/96647951)
Dude needs to get a real film crew. He's breaking history at every move and we're lucky to catch it on cell phone cameras.
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9a+ and 9a new rotes for Alexander Megos in the Frankenjura (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=41887)
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Alex Megos (as part of a team) frees The Fly (500m, 20 pitches with p17 8b, p19 8c and p20 8b+) (http://dmmclimbing.com/news/2014/06/megos-sets-fly-free/)
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Should this thread become Megoswad, now that Ashmina(mini)wad has gone quiet?
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Should this thread become Megoswad, now that Ashmina(mini)wad has gone quiet?
Not until he either has more first ascents on the Frankenjura Top 100 list than Markus Bock (might take a while) or climbs 9b+ (might not take very long?)
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Just drop the "in Wales" bit from the title.
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Whatever you think is best slackers, you're in charge.
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:icon_321:
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supurb effort. However 'pitches weren't climbed entirely in order'....mmm (scratch head emoji). Now i'm not really au fait with big multi pitches. But surely you start at the bottom and climb to the top, no?
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I guess you could aid through a pitch climb one or two more, then abseil back down to free the pitch you aided. :shrug:
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supurb effort. However 'pitches weren't climbed entirely in order'....mmm (scratch head emoji). Now i'm not really au fait with big multi pitches. But surely you start at the bottom and climb to the top, no?
I'm not particularly au fait with multi-pitches either, but from reading Steph Davies' book I got the impression that it's pretty standard not to climb from bottom to top. Often people will claim to have 'freed' a route when they've climbed every individual section of it free - but not in one push. You could ab in and free a pitch you hadn't done, then jumar out the rest of the way.
Sounds like something of this order has happened here.
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Maybe in these cases it could be of some help to distinguish between "freeing the route" that is climbing every pitch free in no special order, and "climbing the route free" that is going from bottom to top climbing every pitch as they come and without falls.
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Little German freakshow
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only slightly off topic...
Did he manage anything of note on the grit recently?
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only slightly off topic...
Did he manage anything of note on the grit recently?
Dave burnt him off on the Joker on Saturday.
Apparently he's only over to train.
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I guess getting pasted by Dave must be good training for the next time he gets pasted by Ondrawad
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only slightly off topic...
Did he manage anything of note on the grit recently?
nothing on the grit but who cares - he was really strong on the Wave :bow:
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Just flashed Stuey five bellies at the school i hear.
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No fuckin way.
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Just flashed Stuey five bellies at the school i hear.
Now we're talking.
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Flashed SFBs, Too fluffy, turd reich and others. Did feel the pinch in a few goes.
Didn't do perky or snot, nor did he do all the moves, but keen to go back this week.
I wasnt there just heard on the grape vine.
Sounds about what you would expect, flashing 8A/A+s but not doing 8B/+s in a session.
Malcs problems are hard and i still think at his peak he would be up with the big boys now in terms of brutal strength.
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Clearly Saturday afternoon's experience has lit a fire under him. Good lad.
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It's not that surprising because they're basic but still fuckin meaty. Did he get spanked on Basic Doyle??
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I was dismayed at how well another member did on that the other day Doyle! Maybe it isn't all that hard ;).
I'm impressed by the above but not at all surprised, he's flashed 9a which is something I simply cannot fathom!
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You've also got to factor in that Friday night was the Works party. Alex was there, looking far too wholesome, so Grimer chased him trying to stick a fake Hitler 'tache on him. Reckon that might of tired him out a bit :-\
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Please can someone have videoed this!
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Grimer was shouting at Sam to take a photo of it, but he wouldn't buy it. This is probably for the best!
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Stuey 5 Bellies on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/115187565)
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Just watched the Stuey vid:
http://vimeo.com/115190138
Goes to a different finishing hold than Newman:
http://vimeo.com/106590185
Gutted for him.
(http://www.menshealth.co.uk/cm/menshealthuk/images/J4/back-medium_new.jpg)
(http://media.timesfreepress.com/img/photos/2012/02/04/020512_WEB_a_Bullet_t618.jpg)
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Doesn't look as strong as Jerry on Feel the Pinch :whistle:
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Just watched the Stuey vid:
http://vimeo.com/115190138 (http://vimeo.com/115190138)
Could that be because it says its "Feel the Pinch (8A+)"?
This says its "Stuey Five Bellies (8A+)"...
Stuey 5 Bellies on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/115187565)
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Dave linked the wrong video, but he's right. What a punter.
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Tom Lanka the move to the pinch. If memory serves me right This wasn't allowed before.
Back round both of them.
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Told you Doylo that C6 has got worse. What's more you can't remember the finish of your own problem dildo time!
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I think it finished in Ass.
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As an aside Gangle goes to the wrong finishing hold, very probably out of pr0n blindness