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the shizzle => news => Topic started by: shark on September 29, 2020, 11:27:48 am

Title: New 8c+/9a at Malham from Steve Mac
Post by: shark on September 29, 2020, 11:27:48 am
Steve redpointed Gresh’s abandoned upstairs project. Starts up L’Obsession then to a poor rest. Crux moves up the impending wall then easier but beefier climbing above. 5 days I think in sub optimal conditions mainly trying it with Buster Martin of which last two sessions he’d dropped the top move due to a wetness. He was lucky to get it yesterday just before the clag came in.

Gresh arrived at crag just too late to see the redpoint but got some snaps of Steve on it. Gresh was reportedly in good spirits having just done his hardest trad route at Iron Crag linking 6 was 9 into one of his own routes at E10 ‘Final Score’
Title: Re: New 8c+/9a at Malham and E10 at Iron Crag
Post by: Fiend on September 29, 2020, 11:57:23 am
Merge this new Gresh E10 thread with the other new Gresh E10 thread??
Title: Re: New 8c+/9a at Malham from Steve Mac
Post by: shark on September 29, 2020, 01:52:18 pm
Changed the title so this one is just about Steve Macs route.

Good going for a 50 year old
Title: Re: New 8c+/9a at Malham from Steve Mac
Post by: spidermonkey09 on September 29, 2020, 02:18:25 pm
Were Steve and Buster duking it out on this or did Buster lose interest? Be interested in hearing a name and a grade in due course, good to get that obvious gap filled.
Title: Re: New 8c+/9a at Malham from Steve Mac
Post by: Will Hunt on September 29, 2020, 02:22:42 pm
Were Steve and Buster duking it out on this or did Buster lose interest?

We were on the Upper Tier a few weeks ago and Buster and his mate came along and clipped onto the end of the ledge. It was at this moment that Buster's rock shoes went tumbling Downstairs. This was not the first time this had happened apparently. My laughs were met with stony faces as Buster deferred his turn to belay his mate. I wonder how things might have turned out differently had he had that extra redpoint go?

 :lol:
Title: Re: New 8c+/9a at Malham from Steve Mac
Post by: 36chambers on September 29, 2020, 02:36:56 pm
Were Steve and Buster duking it out on this or did Buster lose interest? Be interested in hearing a name and a grade in due course, good to get that obvious gap filled.

Here's to hoping Steve calls it "Bust a Move"
Title: Re: New 8c+/9a at Malham from Steve Mac
Post by: shark on September 29, 2020, 03:10:40 pm
Were Steve and Buster duking it out on this or did Buster lose interest? Be interested in hearing a name and a grade in due course, good to get that obvious gap filled.

Dont what duking means but they have been trying it together which was a nice change for Steve. Buster was ok on the hard bit but lacking stamina and slickness on L'Obsession I think. 
Title: Re: New 8c+/9a at Malham from Steve Mac
Post by: andy popp on September 29, 2020, 03:24:14 pm
Literally a fist fight, in this context battling for contention.
Title: Re: New 8c+/9a at Malham from Steve Mac
Post by: shark on September 29, 2020, 05:35:24 pm
Literally a fist fight, in this context battling for contention.

Ah thanks. That’s a new one on me.

Sorry to report that it was all disappointingly good natured.
Title: Re: New 8c+/9a at Malham from Steve Mac
Post by: Rob F on September 29, 2020, 05:52:55 pm
Nice: Send-tember in full flow this week...
Title: Re: New 8c+/9a at Malham from Steve Mac
Post by: SA Chris on September 30, 2020, 08:46:25 am
Rocktober will be even better
Title: Re: New 8c+/9a at Malham from Steve Mac
Post by: shark on September 30, 2020, 08:45:36 pm
Any name suggestions? Steve is struggling
Title: Re: New 8c+/9a at Malham from Steve Mac
Post by: 36chambers on September 30, 2020, 08:47:03 pm
Any name suggestions? Steve is struggling

Were Steve and Buster duking it out on this or did Buster lose interest? Be interested in hearing a name and a grade in due course, good to get that obvious gap filled.

Here's to hoping Steve calls it "Bust a Move"
Title: Re: New 8c+/9a at Malham from Steve Mac
Post by: Doylo on September 30, 2020, 08:56:12 pm
Any name suggestions? Steve is struggling

Busted.
Title: Re: New 8c+/9a at Malham from Steve Mac
Post by: tomtom on September 30, 2020, 09:09:13 pm
Too hard for .....  .......
Title: Re: New 8c+/9a at Malham from Steve Mac
Post by: Doylo on September 30, 2020, 09:15:40 pm
Teach A Young Dog Old Tricks
Title: Re: New 8c+/9a at Malham from Steve Mac
Post by: Yossarian on September 30, 2020, 09:19:20 pm
Obsession for Men
Title: Re: New 8c+/9a at Malham from Steve Mac
Post by: T_B on September 30, 2020, 09:21:29 pm
L’Ockdown
Title: Re: New 8c+/9a at Malham from Steve Mac
Post by: tomtom on September 30, 2020, 09:22:50 pm
https://youtu.be/1ZfjB5P7RS0
Title: Re: New 8c+/9a at Malham from Steve Mac
Post by: moose on September 30, 2020, 09:40:57 pm
Fanaticism or Zeal (i.e. the next steps from Obsession).
Title: Re: New 8c+/9a at Malham from Steve Mac
Post by: abarro81 on September 30, 2020, 09:46:43 pm
Fanaticism or Zeal (i.e. the next steps from Obsession).

On that theme I quite like Maniacal Devotion, but I like both Doyle's and Yossarian's suggestions too
Title: Re: New 8c+/9a at Malham from Steve Mac
Post by: JamieG on September 30, 2020, 09:49:30 pm
Infatuation? Compulsion?
Title: Re: New 8c+/9a at Malham from Steve Mac
Post by: Yossarian on September 30, 2020, 09:50:50 pm
Having reflected for some time, I actually prefer Pour Homme...
Title: Re: New 8c+/9a at Malham from Steve Mac
Post by: grimer on September 30, 2020, 09:51:06 pm
Bustershadow.
Title: Re: New 8c+/9a at Malham from Steve Mac
Post by: Alex-the-Alex on September 30, 2020, 09:53:48 pm
Busta Clymes
Title: Re: New 8c+/9a at Malham from Steve Mac
Post by: Andy F on September 30, 2020, 09:54:47 pm
Buster Gonads.
Title: Re: New 8c+/9a at Malham from Steve Mac
Post by: Will Hunt on September 30, 2020, 10:42:24 pm
Busterfingers (in honour of the repeated shoe dropping).

Rainclogs
Title: Re: New 8c+/9a at Malham from Steve Mac
Post by: Will Hunt on September 30, 2020, 10:43:06 pm
Bus t' Nowhere
Title: Re: New 8c+/9a at Malham from Steve Mac
Post by: petejh on September 30, 2020, 11:50:58 pm
OCD

or Buster Gut
Title: Re: New 8c+/9a at Malham from Steve Mac
Post by: SA Chris on October 01, 2020, 08:28:34 am
Bus t' Nowhere

Missed the Buster
Title: Re: New 8c+/9a at Malham from Steve Mac
Post by: spidermonkey09 on October 01, 2020, 08:34:33 am
Zealot? Or to continue the French theme of L'Obsession, Zélateur
Title: Re: New 8c+/9a at Malham from Steve Mac
Post by: webbo on October 01, 2020, 08:41:59 am
Phil Collins
Title: Re: New 8c+/9a at Malham from Steve Mac
Post by: andy_e on October 01, 2020, 08:46:51 am
Obsession pas fatale
Title: Re: New 8c+/9a at Malham from Steve Mac
Post by: tomtom on October 01, 2020, 09:06:47 am
Phil Collins

:D :D
Title: Re: New 8c+/9a at Malham from Steve Mac
Post by: duncan on October 01, 2020, 09:37:13 am
I guess Total Obsession is waiting for the link?

Too hard for Neil Gresham

With a nod to current issues...Neil Down

Title: Re: New 8c+/9a at Malham from Steve Mac
Post by: cwaddy on October 01, 2020, 10:37:48 am
Malhambra .
Title: Re: New 8c+/9a at Malham from Steve Mac
Post by: tomtom on October 01, 2020, 11:47:39 am
“Fixation”

https://www.instagram.com/p/CFzDIeRDEv5/?igshid=nbctzzw478xh

Title: Re: New 8c+/9a at Malham from Steve Mac
Post by: shark on October 01, 2020, 12:20:27 pm
Thanks for suggestions. Steve had a look through this morning. Obviously he’s too nice to be mean to Buster. We all liked ‘Fixation’ better.
Title: Re: New 8c+/9a at Malham from Steve Mac
Post by: Will Hunt on October 01, 2020, 12:46:03 pm
Boooooooooooring.
 :)
Title: Re: New 8c+/9a at Malham from Steve Mac
Post by: tomtom on October 01, 2020, 12:53:42 pm
Boooooooooooring.
 :)

Yup. Let’s over interpret then.

What does fixation mean?

I recon he’s calling you out for your Oak siege there Shark.

Fight fight fight

:D
Title: Re: New 8c+/9a at Malham from Steve Mac
Post by: SA Chris on October 01, 2020, 01:02:02 pm
Isn't a fixation a bolt in french?
Title: Re: New 8c+/9a at Malham from Steve Mac
Post by: abarro81 on October 01, 2020, 01:28:05 pm
Route looks good. Name is meh IMO
Title: Re: New 8c+/9a at Malham from Steve Mac
Post by: Will Hunt on October 01, 2020, 01:42:00 pm
If we all just agree the new name here I'll pop it in the new guide as such. HTH.
Title: Re: New 8c+/9a at Malham from Steve Mac
Post by: SA Chris on October 01, 2020, 01:44:40 pm
We all liked ‘Fixation’ better.

Sorry Will it's been approved by the Malham Royalty already.
Title: Re: New 8c+/9a at Malham from Steve Mac
Post by: tomtom on October 01, 2020, 01:45:06 pm
If we all just agree the new name here I'll pop it in the new guide as such. HTH.

Start a bidding war!

Title: Re: New 8c+/9a at Malham from Steve Mac
Post by: Yossarian on October 01, 2020, 01:52:13 pm
L’Oblitération

or

Neil before Zod
Title: Re: New 8c+/9a at Malham from Steve Mac
Post by: T_B on October 01, 2020, 02:03:55 pm
We all liked ‘Fixation’ better.

Said the marketing agency responsible for Ronseal’s new tile adhesive branding.
Title: Re: New 8c+/9a at Malham from Steve Mac
Post by: tomtom on October 01, 2020, 02:10:25 pm
We all liked ‘Fixation’ better.

Said the marketing agency responsible for Ronseal’s new tile adhesive branding.

Are going to see SteMac glued to a board like this guy in the solvite adverts?

https://youtu.be/4h5mErP1E6A

(edit for bad spelling)
Title: Re: New 8c+/9a at Malham from Steve Mac
Post by: spidermonkey09 on October 01, 2020, 02:27:34 pm
Always said Gresham should have named his Sabotage route 'Transgresham' in homage to the Well Dunne Finish. A massive missed opportunity.
Title: Re: New 8c+/9a at Malham from Steve Mac
Post by: Mark Lloyd on October 01, 2020, 02:41:30 pm
Maybe if it's 8c+ like Hubble it should be called Peak 9a
or Rain Mac, Big Mac, or just use his initials S&M
joint name like The Macc Buss pity his name's not adam macadam
or for that thinking mans route Macademia
at this point I'll get macoat
Title: Re: New 8c+/9a at Malham from Steve Mac
Post by: nai on October 01, 2020, 02:47:10 pm
Always said Gresham should have named his Sabotage route 'Transgresham' in homage to the Well Dunne Finish. A massive missed opportunity.

I almost suggested L'Obgresham for this but liked moose's suggestions better

Title: Re: New 8c+/9a at Malham from Steve Mac
Post by: ali k on October 01, 2020, 05:14:04 pm
Is there a petition I can sign to change the name? This is like the boatymcboatface scandal. Don’t ask for suggestions and then call it something boring  :shit:
Title: Re: New 8c+/9a at Malham from Steve Mac
Post by: 36chambers on October 01, 2020, 05:49:16 pm
Is there a petition I can sign to change the name? This is like the boatymcboatface scandal. Don’t ask for suggestions and then call it something boring  :shit:

Calling it Buster Move, or Bus t' Nowhere is a nod at the unforgettable battle for the FA that may, or may not, have taking place between the old guard and the new. It speaks of treachery and scandal and adds an important aura to the climb.

Fixation speaks of collection, it speaks of commodities, cv's, and business...
Title: Re: New 8c+/9a at Malham from Steve Mac
Post by: Doylo on October 01, 2020, 06:25:25 pm
It speaks of climbers being paid to do a job. E9 6c is out there on the streets every night.
Title: Re: New 8c+/9a at Malham from Steve Mac
Post by: Fiend on October 02, 2020, 09:17:56 am
Very good lads (although maybe it should have been "F8c+/9a is out there...")
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