UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => new routes => Topic started by: SamT on April 25, 2021, 07:00:31 pm
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Improbable as it sounds, I climbed what appears to be a new line at Lawrencefield yesterday. Must have been climbed before, but not claimed. I can't seem to find anything written up anywhere.
Anyhow, takes a lovely little clean and sharp arete directly below The Gordons, The Gordons and makes a good first pitch to that route.
https://youtu.be/TBUPwEcolcs
Sorry for the extended bivvy on the ledge half way through, didn't think I was stood there for that long! :-[
Also cleaned and climbed 'The Gordons, The Gordons' above a few days before, which is brilliant I think. A proper hidden gem, though its not so hidden really. I've always thought it looked like a great line.
Always thought it was a bit of an odd name, but happened across this early 80s post punk album and I'm pretty sure now where Johnny go the route name from..https://gordons.bandcamp.com/album/the-gordons-future-shock
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Looks tough for E1!
Always thought it was a bit of an odd name
Pretty certain it's a pun on "The Bells, The Bells."
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Yeah - that's what I thought, but The Bells The Bells was climbed in 1980, Pollits ascent was 86 I think and Gordons the Gordons was 85. So not exactly current.
Will ask Johnny if I see him about.
I just saw that the album was called, The Gordons - The Gordons and the image looks totally like the arete. Exact same angle, everything. I can just imagine Johnny seeing this in someone's record collection in a doss house in Hunters bar and seeing the resemblance.
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You might well be right. But ...
So not exactly current.
You have to remember Johnny and John's relationship. Bit of needling would be totally expected.
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Ah yeah - I suppose. Either way, great little micro route that seems to pack a load of climbing into a short space.
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Looks tough for E1!
Forgot to say, its protectable with some wires lower down, and the upper section with a micro cam (green totem) in a funky two finger pocket.
(And JD just confirmed that it was indeed a pun on The Bells).