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the shizzle => news => Topic started by: GraemeA on March 12, 2013, 11:17:18 am

Title: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: GraemeA on March 12, 2013, 11:17:18 am
I was at the IFSC Plenary Assembly on Saturday and it was announced that if we get in it will be a single Overall medal with all 3 disciplines, based on the recommendation of the IOC Technical Commission.

One interesting aspect it that it gets rid of the possibility of ties
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: abarro81 on March 12, 2013, 11:23:26 am
Hold on, so the climbers would all compete in lead, boulder and speed in a triathlon style? I hope I've misunderstood what you mean because that sounds shit. F*ck speed climbing, it's  :wank:.
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: SA Chris on March 12, 2013, 11:26:50 am
Agree it sounds shit. Fuck speed climbing.
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: GraemeA on March 12, 2013, 11:32:05 am
Hold on, so the climbers would all compete in lead, boulder and speed in a triathlon style? I hope I've misunderstood what you mean because that sounds shit. F*ck speed climbing, it's  :wank:.

You have not misunderstood me
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: abarro81 on March 12, 2013, 11:39:18 am
Boo. I just unliked the facebook page in response.
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: Baldy on March 12, 2013, 11:48:54 am
That sounds at once horrific yet also strangely intruiging.

It completely misses the whole background of 'climbing competitions' yet at the same time could potentially thrust some new people into the light as 'olympic climbers' instead of 'lead' or 'sport' climbers.

I'd prefer to see a single discipline for sure, but I would also be interested to see the outcome of that format.
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: GraemeA on March 12, 2013, 11:51:29 am
It completely misses the whole background of 'climbing competitions'

What, those things that started in the 40's and 50's in the USSR  ::)
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: Stu Littlefair on March 12, 2013, 12:06:16 pm
I'm not so sure this is shit. Speed climbing is exciting to look at (you know, for the TV peeps), so this probably increases the chances of climbing getting in. Plus, if it does, there'll be more climbing to watch. Finally, there used to be a few hybrid comps like these around (I remember doing one at the foundry with bouldering, onsight and redpoint rounds), and they are good fun to take part in.

Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 12, 2013, 12:14:23 pm
Boo. I just unliked the facebook page in response.

That'll learn em!
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: mr__j5 on March 12, 2013, 12:23:01 pm
The world championships always awards a combined champion and it isn't usually anybody that doesn't deserve it: Ondra, McColl, Sasha.

However, it does use a stupid scoring system, which means that you don't need to be good at all 3 events. Just do really well in 1 and fairly well in another and turn up to the last one.
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: GraemeA on March 12, 2013, 12:32:31 pm
The world championships always awards a combined champion and it isn't usually anybody that doesn't deserve it: Ondra, McColl, Sasha.

However, it does use a stupid scoring system, which means that you don't need to be good at all 3 events. Just do really well in 1 and fairly well in another and turn up to the last one.

I think you are misunderstanding the scoring system. In the Overall you are only competing against the others in Overall. So whilst it might appear that Sean's Speed result is poor in relation to the specialists he was actually 1st in the Speed in respect to the Overall Championship. If there was an actual Overall event instead of just an amalgamation of the 3 disciplines it would seem different.

Ps this system was introduced in Paris so your comment was correct for previous World Championships
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: mr__j5 on March 12, 2013, 12:38:00 pm
Ah yes, it used to be that they all just scored 0 points in speed.
I hadn't seen that it had changed to a more sensible system.
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: Moo on March 12, 2013, 02:04:08 pm
 :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

This kind of goes to show why climbing for the olympics is just bollocks. The general public just don't see the difference, how many people on here have a gran that thinks they climb huge mountains on their weekends?

Would it be better to try and give a true representation of our sport or just do a lib dem and sell out to get what we can to make some cash. I know what the manufacturers answer to that will be.
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 12, 2013, 02:09:51 pm
It's not going to be a "true representation of our sport" however they package it though. It's going to be a representation of competition climbing which, as Graeme pointed out, started with speed climbing anyway. I can see the logic as a way to make it as palatable as possible for the IOC.
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: Nibile on March 12, 2013, 02:28:38 pm
F*ck speed climbing, it's  :wank:.
You only say so because kneebars take a lot of time.
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: slackline on March 12, 2013, 02:31:55 pm
 :lol:
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: Dave Flanagan on March 12, 2013, 03:48:59 pm
Graeme, what do you think are climbing's chances of getting in?
I have talked to a lot of climbers who assume it's a dead-cert but have read on a few (non-climbing) sites that they rate its chances as very low.
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: SA Chris on March 12, 2013, 04:11:02 pm
In the other thread it was considered a rank outsider?
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: Bonjoy on March 12, 2013, 04:25:35 pm
The cherry on the logcake  :shit:
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: GraemeA on March 12, 2013, 06:06:41 pm
Graeme, what do you think are climbing's chances of getting in?
I have talked to a lot of climbers who assume it's a dead-cert but have read on a few (non-climbing) sites that they rate its chances as very low.

I have no idea. The IFSC Board were obviously being optimistic at the meetings over the weekend but you wouldn't expect them to be anything else in public.

I guess the worry is wrestling and the Putin effect. There are obviously reasons why the IOC dumped wrestling and it is hard to believe that any problems could be rectified in 6 months.
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: cheque on March 12, 2013, 06:25:06 pm
How about a pentathlon where they also have to do abseiling races and climb with one of the Gladiators chasing them?
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 12, 2013, 06:28:40 pm
I hope the speed climbing is across a massive roof on jugs with a bell to ring at the finish. And Matthew Kelly.
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: GraemeA on March 12, 2013, 06:31:51 pm
I hope the speed climbing is across a massive roof on jugs with a bell to ring at the finish. And Matthew Kelly.

And Streaky on top of the wall telling you exactly how long you have got left.

And Chrissie belaying
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: petejh on March 13, 2013, 10:35:18 am
I think it's a great idea. Best all-rounder, why not? Even if speed climbing is bollocks it'd be cool as fuck to see Ondra racing someone.
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: Grubes on March 13, 2013, 10:37:50 am
I for one am really looking forward to BBC going to the expert correspondence and competition summary from Kenton cool and Joe Simpson.
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: SA Chris on March 13, 2013, 10:46:56 am
Is that confirmed? I was still hoping for Andy Kirkpatrick and Johnny Dawes.
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: Muenchener on March 13, 2013, 11:20:15 am
Ken Wilson & Bear Grylls
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: rodma on March 13, 2013, 11:26:33 am
how about a monologue from chris webb parsnip moaning about the style of the climbing for several hours straight  :P
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: SA Chris on March 13, 2013, 11:30:33 am
How about commentary by Ivan Greene (wwwwwwhhhhhhoooooooooo?)
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: Dolly on March 13, 2013, 11:33:10 am
Murray Walker and Grimer
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: Grubes on March 13, 2013, 12:43:35 pm
(Oh shit what have I started, sorry)

what I think they need to a climbing competition type x factor where the worst possible combinations win?

Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: lagerstarfish on March 13, 2013, 01:00:14 pm
commentary should include scrolling text (with maybe the odd linked photo) via a thread on UKB

there should be plenty of mics to record all mutterings and screeching from the competitors
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: crimp on March 13, 2013, 01:08:51 pm
Fantasy Olympic climbing commentary team:

Brian Blessed
Oliver reed (at closing time)
Anyone with tourettes
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: andy_e on March 13, 2013, 01:14:59 pm
Brian Blessed

"Now the dangerous trad event, and stepping up for the UK. Jordan Buys.

"He sets off, climbs smoothly top the top crux, way above the runner. He looks a little sketchy there... Oh no, he's fallen! It's a big fall!

"Is he OK? Yes, yes, I think he is! JORDAN'S ALIVE!"
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: lagerstarfish on March 13, 2013, 02:00:30 pm
Brian Blessed "OH FOR F***S SAKE! STOP FANNYING AROUND AND MAKE THE F***ING MOVE! These young climbers know nothing about commitment. When I was on Everest..."

Stuart Hall (as long as he turns out to be innocent) "and here come the Russians, ha, ha ha , haaa!"

Joe Picalli (after a bottle or two) providing technical advice and extra enthusiasm when the other two have to go for a wee
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 13, 2013, 02:07:56 pm
I was just going to suggest the dream team of Picalli and dense.
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: crimp on March 13, 2013, 02:12:22 pm
I listened to shauna coxsey radio interview this morning.

She said if Brian Blessed ain't commentating, she ain't interested (i may be paraphrasing slightly, but that was the gist of it)
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: a dense loner on March 13, 2013, 03:34:38 pm
What's more worrying jas was I worked wi joe in Liverpool n we talked poetry. Yeh you read that right.
Roses are fuckin red...
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: SA Chris on March 13, 2013, 03:46:52 pm
Ive heard that one

"Roses are red
Violents are blue
I've got a knife
Get in the van"
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: GraemeA on March 13, 2013, 04:27:47 pm
Sloper and Mr Pickford
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: a dense loner on March 13, 2013, 04:37:25 pm
Roses are red... There's no fucking in it

Pretty shitty city

Sorry I would talk sense in this thread but someone mentioned speed climbing way before I did
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: Bonjoy on March 14, 2013, 09:06:38 am
I think we need to go back to a tried and tested commentating duo - Chris Bonington and Ian McNaught-Davis!
"Looks like face powder" "Perhaps it is"
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: Baldy on March 15, 2013, 12:59:32 pm
Brian Blessed

"Now the dangerous trad event, and stepping up for the UK. Jordan Buys.

"He sets off, climbs smoothly top the top crux, way above the runner. He looks a little sketchy there... Oh no, he's fallen! It's a big fall!

"Is he OK? Yes, yes, I think he is! JORDAN'S ALIVE!"
:clap2:  :2thumbsup: :clap2:
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: shark on March 18, 2013, 03:13:33 pm
http://thebmc.co.uk/faster-higher-stonger (http://thebmc.co.uk/faster-higher-stonger)

Quote
18 March 2013

Faster, higher, stronger: climbing closer to the Olympics?

An exciting new format for climbing is being proposed for the Olympics, which will combine speed climbing, lead climbing and bouldering.

The announcement was made last week (9 March) by International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) President Marco Scolaris, at the IFSC Plenary Assembly in Shanghai.

This decision comes on the recommendation of the International Olympic Committee (IOC) Technical Commission following a visit by IOC representatives to the 2012 Climbing World Championships in Paris where lead, speed and bouldering competitions took place spectacularly alongside one another. Previously, the IFSC had proposed lead climbing as a single discipline for the Olympic bid.

This multi-discipline format will be championed when the IFSC gives its presentation to the IOC Executive Board at the end of May, along with the seven other sports bidding for Olympic status for 2020.  Following the presentations, the shortlist is expected to be narrowed down to three sports. The final vote by the IOC will take place in September.

Dave Turnbull, BMC CEO said:

“It’s exciting to hear that a combined event of all three climbing disciplines is being put forward for consideration for the 2020 Olympics. This will make it even more impressive to watch.

“Climbing embodies the Olympic motto perfectly and even more so with this combination: Faster – speed climbing; Higher – lead climbing; Stronger – bouldering.

“The next couple of months are crucial for climbing’s bid. We’re a step closer to knowing what climbing would look like at the Olympics and we’re hoping it’ll become a reality. The switch to a multi-discipline event may be just what’s needed to secure a place for climbing on the shortlist in May. Fingers crossed.”

The ‘triathlon’ of climbing would be likely to take place over six days, with two days devoted to each discipline. Competitors would take part in all three climbing events with medals awarded for combined overall performance.

Climbing reflects the Olympic motto ‘Faster, Higher, Stronger’ in the following way:
•   Speed climbing has the excitement of watching climbers race up identical routes to see who gets to the top in the fastest time.
•   Lead climbing (with ropes) tests the endurance of climbers as they compete to see who can get highest.
•   Bouldering (without ropes) is the ultimate climbing test of strength and power.
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: crimp on March 18, 2013, 04:20:43 pm
http://www.thebmc.co.uk/faster-higher-stonger (http://www.thebmc.co.uk/faster-higher-stonger)
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: crimp on March 18, 2013, 04:23:04 pm
Sorry, just off realised shark has already pasted article up.
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: crimp on April 19, 2013, 11:28:26 am
Any youngsters out there want their crack at fame, and a breakfast cereal endorsement deal?

Here's all you need to do:

https://thebmc.co.uk/want-to-climb-in-the-olympics-in-2020
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: Bonjoy on April 19, 2013, 02:14:50 pm
http://thebmc.co.uk/faster-higher-stonger (http://thebmc.co.uk/faster-higher-stonger)

Quote
18 March 2013

Faster, higher, stronger: climbing closer to the Olympics?

An exciting new format for climbing is being proposed for the Olympics, which will combine speed climbing, lead climbing and bouldering.

The announcement was made last week (9 March) by International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) President Marco Scolaris, at the IFSC Plenary Assembly in Shanghai.

This decision comes on the recommendation of the International Olympic Committee (IOC) Technical Commission following a visit by IOC representatives to the 2012 Climbing World Championships in Paris where lead, speed and bouldering competitions took place spectacularly alongside one another. Previously, the IFSC had proposed lead climbing as a single discipline for the Olympic bid.

This multi-discipline format will be championed when the IFSC gives its presentation to the IOC Executive Board at the end of May, along with the seven other sports bidding for Olympic status for 2020.  Following the presentations, the shortlist is expected to be narrowed down to three sports. The final vote by the IOC will take place in September.

Dave Turnbull, BMC CEO said:

“It’s exciting to hear that a combined event of all three climbing disciplines is being put forward for consideration for the 2020 Olympics. This will make it even more impressive to watch.

“Climbing embodies the Olympic motto perfectly and even more so with this combination: Faster – speed climbing; Higher – lead climbing; Stronger – bouldering.

“The next couple of months are crucial for climbing’s bid. We’re a step closer to knowing what climbing would look like at the Olympics and we’re hoping it’ll become a reality. The switch to a multi-discipline event may be just what’s needed to secure a place for climbing on the shortlist in May. Fingers crossed.”

The ‘triathlon’ of climbing would be likely to take place over six days, with two days devoted to each discipline. Competitors would take part in all three climbing events with medals awarded for combined overall performance.

Climbing reflects the Olympic motto ‘Faster, Higher, Stronger’ in the following way:
•   Speed climbing has the excitement of watching climbers race up identical routes to see who gets to the top in the fastest time.
•   Lead climbing (with ropes) tests the endurance of climbers as they compete to see who can get highest.
•   Bouldering (without ropes) is the ultimate climbing test of strength and power.

I know this is probably aimed at none climbers, but I can't help having the horrible feeling this is the first wave in a ceasless tide of objectionable dross.

Quote
It’s exciting to hear that a combined event of all three climbing disciplines... Climbing embodies the Olympic motto perfectly and even more so with this combination: Faster – speed climbing; Higher – lead climbing; Stronger – bouldering.

 :-\ Like speed climbing is even a thing to most climbers, let alone an equal third of the whole. And lead climbing is all about gaining height?!

Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 19, 2013, 02:18:13 pm
Shush bonjoy, there's important management speak in action here. Think outside the box man!
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 19, 2013, 06:16:28 pm
Quote
And lead climbing is all about gaining height?!

That' generally how lead climbs work, yes. Have you never watched one?

Quote
I can't help having the horrible feeling this is the first wave in a ceasless tide of objectionable dross

Agrees. Had this triathlon been the option upfront I suspect the BMC would have had a harder time gaining support. Not that that would have made any difference...
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: psychomansam on April 19, 2013, 06:27:55 pm
The triathlon thing is a bit crappy, but you can see why they've done it. It sells the idea well and should make for decent watching. It strikes me that they're being pragmatic, so maybe it's justified. Who knows.
I think indoor climbing is a great sport in it's own right these days and we can be cynical about the chances, but is has to be said that if I, or most of us, were reading this realising we have a shot at entering the olympics for team GB 2020, we'd be pretty fucking psyched.
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: Bonjoy on April 19, 2013, 07:31:53 pm
Quote
And lead climbing is all about gaining height?!

That' generally how lead climbs work, yes. Have you never watched one?

In the most literal of ways yes. Just like running the 100m is all about gaining distance.
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 19, 2013, 08:20:00 pm
No, the 100m is about being fastest; its more like the speed climbing event. Do you even own a tv?

If the route setters have done their job right, a lead comp is about who gets highest, pure and simple. I'm not sure what you're driving at, they did away with style points years ago...

Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: Bonjoy on April 19, 2013, 08:45:58 pm
Alright, alright. In climbing comp terms leading is about gaining height. Outside of comps leading is more about doing good lots of good and/or challenging moves, rather than gaining feet off the ground, that's what I meant, but it's a pretty weak point so I won't labour it any more.
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 19, 2013, 09:10:22 pm
Ah right, I see. I think outside of comps it's lots of different things to different people but still, comps are not a million miles away from a bunch of climbers trying to onsight a hard sport route. Whereas speed climbing just seems to have been pulled out of someone's arse.
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: kingholmesy on April 20, 2013, 12:36:07 am
Graeme, what do you think are climbing's chances of getting in?
I have ... read on a few (non-climbing) sites that they rate its chances as very low.

Fingers crossed.
Title: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: Oldmanmatt on April 20, 2013, 10:58:45 am
Y'know, it'll make no difference to a days cragging!

People who train for this event (if it happens), will be doing it indoors.

Two out of the three disciplines are true to the "sport" of climbing and speed climbing is no more alien to Cragging than the 100mtrs is to Fell running.

Commercialisation also brings more opportunity for people to make a living from the sport they love.
Who hasn't wished they could get paid to climb? (Those who aren't good enough I mean, like me).

It won't increase the number of people who brave the elements for a Snowballing session...

And might even result in cheaper kit for all of us.
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: crimp on April 20, 2013, 12:17:50 pm
I think i am quite neutral on it.

On plus side i enjoy watching well edited and commentated comp footage.

Even on the nicest days the wall will be heaving, while crags are lightly trafficked, and sometimes deserted. I've met several wall climbers who enter comps who have told me climbing outdoors is too much faffing about. So the impact of comps on trad is negligible.

It gives some people a lot of pleasure (never been inclined myself, and i am too shite by a long shot).


On the negative side, sometimes it all seems a bit whooping x games type stuff for my liking.

The Olympics is really about sponsors not sport. And they want sexy cos sexy sells. I think the BMC are practically willing to accept any conditions to get into Olympics, like speed climbing (pile of crap, but that's just my opinion). I do worry it might end up as a cross between beach volleyball and gladiators.

There could be a bleed of the ethos and comps to outdoors.

On balance, i don't think i will care whether it makes the Olympics or not.

Can't hold back the tide. And i believe there's enough of us with enough passion to accept it into our church and keep it self policed out their on the rock.

Ps. I will only accept Olympic climbing if the blessed booms the commentary out.
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: chris j on April 20, 2013, 06:57:22 pm
If we don't get in this time, will that be it? Or will we have to suffer the BMC enthusing that we should support the bid every four years ad infinitum?

 :yawn:
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: c3po on April 21, 2013, 02:18:45 pm
I skipped from the first page to the last so may have missed some stuff.

I think it sounds like a good idea, in the UK our climbers may not win the sport dicipline but they could make up the points with bouldering and speed. 

In the UK scene there's definately respect for someone who shines in their dicpline but there seems to be a greater respect for those who do quite well across all diciplines (McCleod, Haston, Bransby and so on).

It would probably be more acurate an assessment of the worlds best climber if we could see who was best overall, should someone be crowned Olympic Champion because they are great at one dicipline or good across the board?
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: crimp on April 21, 2013, 02:45:54 pm
I think you'd have a hard time finding many British climbers taking speed climbing  seriously.

I think BMC were a bit Olympics at any price there.
Title: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: Oldmanmatt on April 21, 2013, 03:36:27 pm
I think you'd have a hard time finding many British climbers taking speed climbing  seriously.

I think BMC were a bit Olympics at any price there.

Yeah, if they're taking speed; they probably won't be too serious when they climb.

Loud, maybe...
Title: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: Oldmanmatt on April 21, 2013, 03:36:58 pm
Sorry...
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: crimp on April 21, 2013, 04:04:15 pm
No need to apologise.

Speed climbing sounds shite.

But, acid climbing, in the boulder bunker, by strobe light and spinning glitter ball, on roller skates.

Now that's am Olympic event i would watch.
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: SA Chris on April 22, 2013, 10:24:53 am
While I'm not ecstatic about the speed part of the triathlon, I would rather put up with it if it means bouldering is included rather than just lead climbing on its own, which was what I was originally expecting.
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: davej on April 22, 2013, 12:27:28 pm
Looks like climbing is up against some really tough opposition for the single place. Out of interest is there likely to be a trial of the climbing triathlon format in the UK in the near future?
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: Will Hunt on April 22, 2013, 12:52:11 pm
How do I get stonger? Is there much training involved?
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: GraemeA on April 22, 2013, 12:57:44 pm
Looks like climbing is up against some really tough opposition for the single place. Out of interest is there likely to be a trial of the climbing triathlon format in the UK in the near future?

If we do get in the games then the format will be finalised by the IFSC then I am sure you will see events organised with the new format. Currently thoug there is only Ratho has a speed wall although DavieD is supposed to be putting one in his Sheffield wall.
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: SA Chris on April 22, 2013, 01:51:19 pm
Out of curiosity, how does a speed wall differ from any other wall? Surely it's just a case of having a big button wired in at the top?
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: ianv on April 22, 2013, 02:06:22 pm
Out of curiosity, how does a speed wall differ from any other wall? Surely it's just a case of having a big button wired in at the top?

It might have changed now, but they used to be vertical or just slightly overhanging with big jugs all the way up. Have to say, for spectators its probably the most interesting form of climbing comp so its probably been put in as a sop to the tele.
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: GraemeA on April 22, 2013, 02:10:38 pm
Out of curiosity, how does a speed wall differ from any other wall? Surely it's just a case of having a big button wired in at the top?

There are 2 formats, World Record and Classic.

Classic is on a none standard wall with a new route every comp

WR is a standard route on a standard wall
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: davej on April 22, 2013, 02:13:40 pm
What's the length of the routes?
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: SA Chris on April 22, 2013, 02:58:20 pm
Out of curiosity, how does a speed wall differ from any other wall? Surely it's just a case of having a big button wired in at the top?

There are 2 formats, World Record and Classic.

Classic is on a none standard wall with a new route every comp

WR is a standard route on a standard wall

For WR, you mean the same holds are used, set the same distance apart in the same sequence?

Ianv, I am sure you are right and that it has been included as a crowd pleaser.
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: LB1782 on April 22, 2013, 03:08:54 pm
For WR, you mean the same holds are used, set the same distance apart in the same sequence?
The wall at Ratho has 2 identical routes side by side that have the same holds in the same sequence. I think all the qualifying WR routes are the same angle flat panels with the same holds in same places. The routes are TR'd as a vague guess I suppose the route would get 6a+.
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: SA Chris on April 22, 2013, 03:13:40 pm
Cheers. I'm sure it will make for rivetting viewing for experienced climbers!
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: Hoseyb on April 22, 2013, 04:43:05 pm
Quote from: davej link=topspic=21860.msg404829#msg404829 date=1366630048
Looks like climbing is up against some really tough opposition for the single place. Out of interest is there likely to be a trial of the climbing triathlon format in the UK in the near future?

If we do get in the games then the format will be finalised by the IFSC then I am sure you will see events organised with the new format. Currently thoug there is only Ratho has a speed wall although DavieD is supposed to be putting one in his Sheffield wall.

THe Beacon as a wall built to spec for speed climbing (15 odd m 15 degrees over, grid t nuttage and beams for the TR anchors) but its yet to be used for any official comps yet, just a but of 5+ fun to raise money for the rescue team.
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: Stubbs on April 22, 2013, 04:46:11 pm
Cheers. I'm sure it will make for rivetting viewing for experienced climbers!

it is pretty nuts...
NEW World record in speed climbing 2011 (6.26 seconds) HD (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LBi22AKvsK0#ws)
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: r-man on April 22, 2013, 05:05:24 pm
Have to say, for spectators its probably the most interesting form of climbing comp so its probably been put in as a sop to the tele.

Not sure about that. Watched the world championships on my parent's TV (HDMI cable from laptop), and they found the speed comps boring, but watched the bouldering for a whopping 30min before wandering off.
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: ianv on April 22, 2013, 06:34:05 pm
For the general public though, it would just be like watching the sprinting. Where as onsight comps (and bouldering) are fairly dull for the uninitiated.
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: r-man on April 22, 2013, 07:07:55 pm
My parents are non climbers, or there wouldn't have been any point in my post! And another anecdote - I watched a British round of the bouldering world cup in Birmingham some years ago. It was free to watch for anyone at the outdoor show. A couple of middle aged ladies took seats behind me. As they settled down, I heard:
"So what is this bouldering then?"
"I think it's like glorified scrambling."
20min later, as Mark Croxall began to make his bid for victory, they were cheering at the top of their voices.
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: rich d on April 22, 2013, 08:50:18 pm
I'm sure that speed climbing is impressive, but it really doesn't look watchable. Can't imagine that being a good spectator sport after he initial - fuck they're fast.
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: c3po on April 22, 2013, 09:05:55 pm
I must be pretty sad coz I thought that was mint! :boxing:
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: SA Chris on April 23, 2013, 09:31:01 am
it is pretty nuts...

Yeah I watched a couple. To me personally it feels like a party piece.
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: shark on May 09, 2013, 10:58:33 am
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/everest-60th-anniversary--a-lucky-sign-for-climbings-olympic-bid (https://www.thebmc.co.uk/everest-60th-anniversary--a-lucky-sign-for-climbings-olympic-bid)

In a mountainous coincidence, the International Olympic Committee (IOC) is set to announce the final shortlist of sports vying for a place at the 2020 Olympic Games on the same day as the 60th anniversary of the first ascent of Everest.

Just three weeks away, 29 May 2013 will be a crucial day for climbing's Olympic bid and could be another historic milestone in climbing's history. The International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) is the force behind the bid to get climbing into the Olympics and the BMC is backing the bid.

On that day, the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) will present the case for climbing to the IOC Executive Board in St Petersburg, Russia. After hearing from all eight bidding sports, the board will recommend three sports to go through to the final vote at the IOC Session in Buenos Aires in September.
 
There have been connections between climbing and the Olympics for many years. Gold medals from the 1924 Winter Olympics were awarded to members of the British 1922 Everest expedition for the tremendous efforts which brought them within 500 metres of the summit. This was some 30 years before the 1953 British Everest expedition went on to make history with the first successful ascent of the world’s highest mountain.
 
In 2012, British mountaineer Kenton Cool took one of the 1924 Olympic medals to the summit of Everest to fulfil a pledge by one of the Everest pioneers - the 1922 expedition deputy leader, Lt Col Edward Strutt.
 
Kenton Cool said: “In 1894 Baron Pierre de Coubertin reconstituted the modern Olympic movement and made a deliberate choice to include our sport of climbing. He felt so strongly about climbing’s inclusion that in 1924 he personally awarded the first ever Olympic Gold Medals for Mountaineering, and in 2012 I fulfilled the subsequent promise made by Great Britain to Baron Pierre de Coubertin and the IOC to place one of the 1924 Mountaineering Olympic Gold Medals onto the summit of the world’s highest mountain 'for all humanity'.
 
"Climbing is the very essence of everything Baron Pierre de Coubertin meant when he wrote the Olympic motto of ‘higher, faster, stronger’, and it was there on the very first day of the modern Olympics.
 
"The 29th May, 2013 will be a momentous day for climbing. It is the 60th anniversary of the first successful summit of Mount Everest and it is the date the IFSC will present their case to the IOC. I’m backing the bid.”
 
Climbing as we’d see it in the 2020 Olympics would be very different to climbing Everest as competition climbing takes place on man-made walls. The IFSC is proposing a multi-discipline event which includes speed, lead climbing and bouldering.  This fits perfectly with the Olympic motto Faster (speed); Higher (lead); Stronger (bouldering).
 
You can support the bid:

Like the Facebook page (https://www.facebook.com/SportClimbing2020)
Remember to use the Twitter hash tag #climbing2020
Look out for a BMC petition to sign at your local climbing wall.
Vote for climbing in the polls at Sportconnect Olympics 2020 and  Inside the Games

(My bold)
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: Jaspersharpe on May 09, 2013, 01:10:06 pm
KENTON COOL!!!!
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: Pantontino on May 09, 2013, 04:48:42 pm
My parents are non climbers, or there wouldn't have been any point in my post! And another anecdote - I watched a British round of the bouldering world cup in Birmingham some years ago. It was free to watch for anyone at the outdoor show. A couple of middle aged ladies took seats behind me. As they settled down, I heard:
"So what is this bouldering then?"
"I think it's like glorified scrambling."
20min later, as Mark Croxall began to make his bid for victory, they were cheering at the top of their voices.

I was working on a stand at that show and managed to get away to see that very same bouldering comp - I thought it was absolutely electrifying, but I'm not sure if I was just relieved to have a break from saying the same thing about the same things to different people...endlessly.

Speed comps are fun to watch the first time but I can't help wondering how the competitors cope with the boredom of redpointing exactly the same route, endlessly (a bit like my sales spiel). I suppose it is, as somebody else said, just like any athletics race. Still pretty wierd.
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: Pantontino on May 09, 2013, 04:51:27 pm
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/everest-60th-anniversary--a-lucky-sign-for-climbings-olympic-bid (https://www.thebmc.co.uk/everest-60th-anniversary--a-lucky-sign-for-climbings-olympic-bid)

In a mountainous coincidence, the International Olympic Committee (IOC) is set to announce the final shortlist of sports vying for a place at the 2020 Olympic Games on the same day as the 60th anniversary of the first ascent of Everest.


Never mind the issue in hand, that is a very amusing press release - I hear the clanking of a dropped crow bar...  ;D
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: petejh on May 09, 2013, 06:14:38 pm
Quote from: Kenton 'slugger' Cool
You famously took an Olympic gold medal up Everest last year. What have you got planned for this year?
The Olympic gold medal last year was a great project to be involved with and its hard to think how we can top it. That said I do have a sneaky project in mind which will be pretty cool if we manage to pull if off....all I can say is watch this space and keep fingers crossed. (i think we've just found out what that is Kenton!)

 ::)  It's so obviously a summit boxing re-match between Kenton and a member of the euro-bashing Sherpa death-mob. Streamed live with expert commentary by Rich Simpson.

Eee-aww.
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: Jaspersharpe on May 10, 2013, 10:39:53 am
SHAMELESS BUT APPROPRIATE REPOST ALERT.....

Kenton's medal:

(http://i47.tinypic.com/34ypd76.jpg)
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: SA Chris on May 10, 2013, 10:53:46 am
http://www.insidethegames.biz/polls/71-which-sport-do-you-think-the-ioc-should-vote-to-include-on-the-olympic-programme-for-2020 (http://www.insidethegames.biz/polls/71-which-sport-do-you-think-the-ioc-should-vote-to-include-on-the-olympic-programme-for-2020)

Ahead of wakeborading and wushu in the polls anyway.
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: gme on May 10, 2013, 01:00:05 pm
only just over a thousand votes, pretty poor really.

Cant see it getting in honestly and i am not surprised as even though i enjoy watching them and am interested in the results if i had a choice i would watch a lot of other sports first as they are a bit weird and boring. The last bouldering WC was like watching paint dry. (sorry Percy and Graeme) If you were not an avid climber i think it would just not compute.
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: mr__j5 on May 29, 2013, 04:46:55 pm
No joy this time around:


http://www.olympic.org/news/baseball-softball-squash-and-wrestling-make-cut-for-ioc-session-vote-in-buenos-aires/199833 (http://www.olympic.org/news/baseball-softball-squash-and-wrestling-make-cut-for-ioc-session-vote-in-buenos-aires/199833)
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: GraemeA on September 09, 2013, 11:23:32 pm
Well wrestling is back in, anyone surprised?
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: SA Chris on September 10, 2013, 10:05:32 am
Not really. Traditional olympic sport isn't it? Not even sure why it dropped out.
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: gme on September 10, 2013, 10:52:24 am
I think our of all of them it is the one most suited to the Olympics and was one of the original sports involved.

Much better than half the shit that's in there now such as golf, football and tennis which have no right at all of being Olympic sports. Golf is the biggest joke of them all, love golf and like watching the majors but the Olympics FFS.

Would have been good for climbing due to increase in funding but can see why it didn't get in. Keep trying though.
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: Moo on September 10, 2013, 11:01:26 am
Are there any plans for future bids with climbing?
Title: Re: Olympic climbing triathlon
Post by: GraemeA on September 10, 2013, 11:32:58 am
Are there any plans for future bids with climbing?

Probably, I guess I will find out at an IFSC meeting in December. But remember that one sport has to be booted for another sport to get in. Not sure what effect the IOC having a new President will have.
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