UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: travs on May 19, 2009, 08:31:04 am
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Well I did a couple of new problems at Aparant North a week or so ago. They are located on a narrow wall, about 6ft wide about 20m right of Hamper's Hang. The wall looks really small until you get up close and you realise there's another 4ft of climbing hidden in a bit of a pit formed by 2 big boulders left and right. The left arrete goes at about 6a and the right rib goes at about 7b but you have to be strict about feet not passing the edge of the rib. Both problems climb really well although Percy might not think so since I pulled off a fairly important pebble after climbing the right hand line. Names are 'Pit Trip Left Hand' and 'Pit Trip Right Hand'.
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The crag is spelt STANAGE, and the area is APPARENT north.
Bloody hell, you've been there enough times even you should be able to spell it by now!
;)
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do you want to borrow my 'super peddant' costume in Font next week?
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do you want to borrow my 'super peddant' costume in Font next week?
One 'd' in pedant, I think you'll find. ;)
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;D
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where abouts are these? have climbed or tried to climb nearly everything I could find round here. anywhere near the slopey traverse?
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do you want to borrow my 'super peddant' costume in Font next week?
One 'd' in pedant, I think you'll find. ;)
Quite.
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do you want to borrow my 'super peddant' costume in Font next week?
One 'd' in pedant, I think you'll find. ;)
Irony, I think you'll find. ;)
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Any chance of a pic, these sound familiar?
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Sorry I haven't got a pic at the moment, but they are way before the slopey traverse. After 'Black Car Burning' the crag steps up the slope and then comes back down again. The problems are about 10m right of where it comes back down but you sort of walk rightwards around the boulders and back in again. I'd be suprised if they've been done before as they were as dirty as hell and needed a good clean.
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Sloper made the same assumption about his 'new' stuff not far from here. As long as the likes of Bighands and Farrar are at large I think its safer to assume anything at Stanage below 7c has been done before.
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I don't reckon these have been done before. Obscure, and very hard to find unless you accidently fall into the pit. To esoteric for Farrah (words I thought i'd never type, but there you go). Slopers stuff on the other hand is just the continuation of the edge past the cowperstone, and I would have been very surprised to think that they hadn't been done years ago (which they have).
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Sure, but if we assume that then nothing new will ever get done and apart from that they obviously haven't done everything under 7c. Also if people can't be bothered to claim first ascents then they shouldn't bother retro claiming them when people do make the effort of cleaning problems and writting them up. If it wasn't for people cleaning problems, claiming ascents and pointing people to new problems there wouldn't be guide books nor the possibilty of going out and trying something new. This is all very similar to what happened when I wrote up 'A Tricky Traverse' at Secret Garden. OK it's not the best problem but it's certainly worth doing, but the immediate response was Oh I'm sure Zaff will have done this, he's done everything at Secret Garden, he used to crawl all over that bit of rock. Well I met Zaff at Secret Garden about 6 weeks ago and we showed each other various eliminates and he confirmed that he hadn't done this problem. So all I'm saying is that it's all very well acting as a spokesman for somebody else but unless you definitively know that they have done something don't just assume that they have.
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Travs (and others), don't be put off from posting your finds on here. It is appreciated. Whether it has been done before or not, at least you're making the effort to share it with everyone else.
:great:
Would be even better if you got some photos! Best way to spread the pysche and get people interested...
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I don't reckon these have been done before. Obscure, and very hard to find unless you accidentally fall into the pit. Too esoteric for Farrah (words I thought I'd never type, but there you go). Sloper's stuff on the other hand is just the continuation of the edge past the Cowperstone, and I would have been very surprised to think that they hadn't been done years ago (which they have).
Sloper, can I borrow that outfit for Font, please? ;)
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Sorry, I don't want to put folk off reporting stuff but on this kind of stuff I think some humility would go down well on the claims, ie 'I did this, its good, anyone know more?' rather than reaching straight for a NEWS thread.
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Depends if you think 'News' includes 'new' stuff or not. The answer seems to be in the title, to me. No-one is claiming it's ground-breaking, just new.
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Humility schumility. The FA of a mid 7 in the peak isn't exactly important. So what if someone did this earlier - if they didn't feel the need to claim it, why should they care if someone else claims it instead?
What's more important is that the discovery is shared and that there are more things for everyone to climb. Like LucyA says, if it's new to most of us, it's news.
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Adding my 2p to the pot,
The things I uncovered were very, very dirty including heather growing from some of the holds and the rock was very very scrittly but soon brushed up and is now nice and solid.
I'm quite happy to accept that some one else has been there and done the problems J L (who ever you are) says him and some others did just that, as a non sponsored non hero I'm really not that upset one way or the other but as Travs says if you can't be bothered to write stuff up or publicise it then don't later seek to take the glory when someone else does.
There is still plenty of rock with worthwhile stuff to do on it out and about and the approach of 'well joe brown must have cracked that one off' does little to motivate people to out in what can be considerable time and effort.
Anyway, here's another one for the retroclaim brigade; a few years ago I did the undercut arete at Baslow to the right of 'manian bilberries' or what ever that weird slab is on the crag about walnut whip, it felt about font 6b and quite scary. Anyone else know this problem?
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A definitive bouldering guide is never going to happen. I don't think there's a need to describe every problem either, is everyone desperate to be spoonfed?
For some of us there's an enjoyment to be had from going to areas and discovering stuff for oursleves. Others don't claim these things so that others can have that too. The more folk claim, name and grade every last gap the harder that is to do. To me the more popular the area and the lower the grade the more claiming seems like gratuitous willy-waving. I'm sorry, but to me new to r-man and friends should not equal news.
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Anyway, here's another one for the retroclaim brigade; a few years ago I did the undercut arete at Baslow to the right of 'manian bilberries' or what ever that weird slab is on the crag about walnut whip, it felt about font 6b and quite scary. Anyone else know this problem?
it's this thing. (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=71370) although you'd be forgiven otherwise thanks to the terrible description. i assume this guy means climbing it on the right. the left would be pointless.
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For some of us there's an enjoyment to be had from going to areas and discovering stuff for oursleves. Others don't claim these things so that others can have that too.
That is a good point.
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I totally agree about the thing about going to new areas and just finding stuff out and doing it which is why I don't really use climbing guides, other than to find where to go and how to get there.
If people were claiming some uber trivia on the face of business at the plantation eg ** top :-\ then I'd tend to agree, but what are nice independent lines on good rock in out of the way places, is I think quite different.
I do however think we've missed that nice relaxed, informal clique vibe by about ohh 40 years and for me the higher the grade the more appropriate the 'willy waving' is.
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A definitive bouldering guide is never going to happen. I don't think there's a need to describe every problem either, is everyone desperate to be spoonfed?
For some of us there's an enjoyment to be had from going to areas and discovering stuff for oursleves. Others don't claim these things so that others can have that too. The more folk claim, name and grade every last gap the harder that is to do. To me the more popular the area and the lower the grade the more claiming seems like gratuitous willy-waving. I'm sorry, but to me new to r-man and friends should not equal news.
Indeed, why don't we burn all the guides, that way Johnny Brown and friends will have more fun.
Better still, maybe you could just ignore threads that don't interest you, and allow others to share info about bouldering. Please allow us to pretend this a bouldering forum where people like to hear about bouldering...
Thanks awfully, r-man and friends.
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Anyway, here's another one for the retroclaim brigade; a few years ago I did the undercut arete at Baslow to the right of 'manian bilberries' or what ever that weird slab is on the crag about walnut whip, it felt about font 6b and quite scary. Anyone else know this problem?
it's this thing. (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=71370) although you'd be forgiven otherwise thanks to the terrible description. i assume this guy means climbing it on the right. the left would be pointless.
I don't think that's it at all, although it is a pretty unclear definition. This starts on the very left of the wall, right by the descent gully and climbs the undercut arete via some unhelpful rugosities on the side wall and weird holds on the arete. I know I can't grade for toffee but english 6a would seem a bit on the low side, who knows it might be 6b-
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A definitive bouldering guide is never going to happen. I don't think there's a need to describe every problem either, is everyone desperate to be spoonfed?
For some of us there's an enjoyment to be had from going to areas and discovering stuff for oursleves. Others don't claim these things so that others can have that too. The more folk claim, name and grade every last gap the harder that is to do.
Elitist nonsense Mr Brown. Go play in Scotland if you want adventure and remember not to claim your ascents or have anyone film you either, just in case. The Peak is back garden territory, and its useful to many people to know whats been done and what's available for a bit of a climb.
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The Peak is exceptionally well covered by multiple guidebooks and vast amounts of internet information. What is wrong with leaving some small areas (dwarfed by the huge areas of documented stuff) for others to re-discover. I think that is preferable to the claim everything mentality, particularly seeing some of what is being claimed.
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What is wrong with leaving some small areas (dwarfed by the huge areas of documented stuff) for others to re-discover.
Because Red Palms Might go and claim the FA's?
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The Peak is exceptionally well covered by multiple guidebooks and vast amounts of internet information. What is wrong with leaving some small areas (dwarfed by the huge areas of documented stuff) for others to re-discover. I think that is preferable to the claim everything mentality, particularly seeing some of what is being claimed.
And how exactly did this repository of information develop?
If good problems aren't written up they can and do return to nature.
I'm not talking about claiming everything, for example on the block that I did three problems you could probably squeeze in a link up here, a new variant there etc I would agree that things like that 3' problem at the plantation should never get written up but new areas and new problems in my opinion should.
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I do concur that The Harris is by far the guiltiest party if only for that toilet pit minus-one-move wonder lump of knee high turd he dared to think of as boulderable :'(
Anyway, the info has developed from people claiming stuff. Once it gets to a critical stage where is enough is recorded for people to have loads of documented stuff to go at and undocumented stuff is a rare resource (obviously this happened a long time ago in the Peaks), then perhaps that is when a line should be drawn.
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I think the level of documentation should correlate with demand. As the Peak is probably the most under pressure rock climbing area in the UK, the more that is known about and people are informed about, the more the demand is spread about and the pressure lessened on current honeypot areas.
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I think Fiend is hitting the nail on the head here. In this most developed of areas more is to be gained from leaving some stuff unrecorded than trying to catalogue everything.
I fail to see how that is elitist; quite the opposite, it allows more folk the pleasure of exploration, and the experience of solving a problem of unknown difficulty at modest grades.
Chris, you raise a good point and in the new BMC guides circuits around less well known areas will hopefully spread pressure. There remains a case though for undocumented areas where folk with a mind to can explore.
Apologies if anyone feels targeted by this, my beef isn't with these problems, these climbers or this thread, its general. I will admit though that every time Chris Craggs claims another severe at stanage a little part of me dies.
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I will admit though that every time Chris Craggs claims another severe at stanage a little part of me dies.
I know what you mean, its my ambition to climb all the three star classics up to VS on Stange as well and its a pain to keep having to go back for one more. ;D
I don't really understand the argument for not documenting things, any sense of adventure you get from finding these things is at best illusionary because, by your own admission, they have already been climbed they are just unknown to you. If that sort of thing gives you a kick (and you have that much time on your hands) then going anywhere without a guide book on a quuiet day will give you the same result. Would you really feel happier to spend a day hunting around the moors and not finding anything worth while than spending a day being directed to decent problems by a guide book?
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Would you really feel happier to spend a day hunting around the moors and not finding anything worth while than spending a day being directed to decent problems by a guide book?
You've hit the nail on the head there. We can already be directed to plenty of decent problems. Whereas hunting around is producing increasingly slim pickings. Yet folk keep insisting on writing them up.
The sense of adventure doesn't come from kidding yourself a problem hasn't done before. It comes from, as you say, the unknown. Not having a guide isn't the same as leaving stuff undescribed.
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I take it from that then Adam that you have never written up a new problem or intend writting up any other new probelms? :shrug:
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Yes I have. But there are many more I haven't...
I would have thought you'd have picked that up from the above, but if it really is that simplistic to you... there are lines to be drawn lest we end up trying to write up every move ever done.
An arete in a pit with rules for feet in the middle of Apparent North strikes me as being firmly one side if that line. Clearly you feel it's on a different side.
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Would you really feel happier to spend a day hunting around the moors and not finding anything worth while than spending a day being directed to decent problems by a guide book?
You've hit the nail on the head there. We can already be directed to plenty of decent problems. Whereas hunting around is producing increasingly slim pickings. Yet folk keep insisting on writing them up.
The sense of adventure doesn't come from kidding yourself a problem hasn't done before. It comes from, as you say, the unknown. Not having a guide isn't the same as leaving stuff undescribed.
And who's to decide what's worth writing up and what's not? I think the only answer can be those who go and repeat it once it's been written up.
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Whilst I can see JB's point about leaving undiscovered problems/areas for adventurous souls I hardly think that starting a thread on a forum about a couple of (potentially) new problems is tantamount to suggesting that the Peak Bouldering guide should immediately be reprinted with these new problems included. In fact threads like this allow a concensus to develop over the "significance" of the problem in question and whether or not it should be a candidate for inclusion in the next edition of a bouldering guide. It can also supply an answer to the age old "has it been done before" question, some of these answers will be definitve and some more speculative but again it adds a weight of opinion(s).
Keep starting threads about potential new problems IMHO (whether they are started in News or Bouldering or wherever is really not significant), after all if you really are after a days exploratory bouldering you're hardly going to prepare for the session by trawling through old forgotten threads about possible new problems in the area you want to have your "adventure" in. However if you are preparing a guidebook you may, and it might even provide reference to some outstanding previously unrecorded gems...
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Keep starting threads about potential new problems IMHO (whether they are started in News or Bouldering or wherever is really not significant), after all if you really are after a days exploratory bouldering you're hardly going to prepare for the session by trawling through old forgotten threads about possible new problems in the area you want to have your "adventure" in. However if you are preparing a guidebook you may, and it might even provide reference to some outstanding previously unrecorded gems...
Quite. Carefully documenting problems in each and every area is sometimes not the way as in the Grinah Stones or Barrow Stones on Bleaklow to leave a sense of adventure - just a nod in a guide is good enough.
However in places like RHS, Stanage & Cratcliffe its reached saturation point - I defy many more problems to be squeezed in & those that are should be left for everyone to rediscover IMHO - unless they are monster lines of course!
Si
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There's still plenty of stuff to do at stanage, you're just looking in the wrong places (eg the grouse)
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Or more likely not looking at all.
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Shit I think I just figured out what these problems are, are they just below a round butress with lots of easy solos on and there is a gulley down to the left of this butress with some very good problems in?
is there also a good little slap move problem off a shelf just to the right of this pit?
If so (although my memory is hazy), then have done left arete and tried the rib but only had trainers on so never gave it a proper go
can't be arsed reading rest of thread, a photo would be good although it propably needs to stop raining
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No you're in the wrong area, I'll have to get a photo.
I have to say there a lot of double standards going on here and people potentially self appointing themselves as style police. If we were to ignore problems with specific rules then we would eliminate a large number of quality problems and wouldn't bother writting up such classics as :
Blind Fig
Jerry's Traverse
Work Hard
Everything on limestone
What I can't believe is that there is so much negative criticism and nobody's actually gone out and repeated the problems. If you go and repeat them and you think the problems were shite then fair enough. But at least keep an open mind and don't for one minute think that the edges are worked out.
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Double standards seems to be a mild approach, not having a go at the personalities on this thread but there's a rather different approach http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,11657.0.html (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,11657.0.html)
Just as the default position is 'no top, no tick' so should the default be that 'if you don't claim it, you don't retro claim it'.
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In this most developed of areas more is to be gained from leaving some stuff unrecorded than trying to catalogue everything.
Well spoken Mister Brown it would be madness to name and grade a new problem. Where you use your right hand on the holds you used for your left, on the problem to the right. Which kind of share the same line. Then Call it a classic even though it don't go to the top of the crag! Crazy stuff that. Or start half way up the gully to the left and bridge into the proper line, name and grade get your knob out and phone the area rep!!!! This stuff shouldn't happen.
I hear what your saying though but...............
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That's the point isn't it; we're not talking about eliminates but new lines on new blocks....... or have I missed your ironic intent; quite possible as i'm trying to write a magazine article for a construction magazine.... :yawn:
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A definitive bouldering guide is never going to happen on my shift.
I, like Travs, invited mockery by claiming an unrecorded problem in News.
I relegated the next new problem I did to a sub-forum, and I'm undecided whether to publicise any future problems on UKB. It's no co-inkydinky that the Dronnie massif avoid here really.
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Hold on uptown. Having just reskimmed the thread there is only one person arguing the "don't report this stuff" corner (with a bit of half hearted backup from Fiend, but hey ;) ).
Are people really that afraid of an internet tongue lashing from JB that they avoid reporting on here despite the fact that basically everyone else appears to be supportive of such actions?
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Are people really that afraid of an internet tongue lashing from JB
with a side order of McTongueLashingLite. :)
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(http://www.steveconrad.co.uk/cadfael/images/cadfael1.gif)
Oh Brother Cadfael....should we take the in-situ clips out of Mecca?
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Hold on uptown. Having just reskimmed the thread there is only one person arguing the "don't report this stuff" corner (with a bit of half hearted backup from Fiend, but hey ;) ).
Are people really that afraid of an internet tongue lashing from JB that they avoid reporting on here despite the fact that basically everyone else appears to be supportive of such actions?
It takes just one man pissing on your chips to get them wet Jasper! ;)
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Nice analogy. ;) But it's the idea that there is a general feeling of negativity about posting on UKB amongst some people that concerns me. When you have one person expressing a negative viewpoint but ten other regular posters disagreeing I would have thought that would encourage rather than discourage. It's a bit like the Stevie Haston toy chucking incident. At the end of the day, it's just opinion and words on a screen.
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I think that there is an issue re credibility, ie. if we get the redtops posting shite then the 'status' of the site is diminished however this is easily countered by people ignoring things like Paul Mitchells latest magnum opus ....
My view is and always has been 'publish and be dammed' etc
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Sure, but if we assume that then nothing new will ever get done and apart from that they obviously haven't done everything under 7c. Also if people can't be bothered to claim first ascents then they shouldn't bother retro claiming them when people do make the effort of cleaning problems and writting them up. If it wasn't for people cleaning problems, claiming ascents and pointing people to new problems there wouldn't be guide books nor the possibilty of going out and trying something new. This is all very similar to what happened when I wrote up 'A Tricky Traverse' at Secret Garden. OK it's not the best problem but it's certainly worth doing, but the immediate response was Oh I'm sure Zaff will have done this, he's done everything at Secret Garden, he used to crawl all over that bit of rock. Well I met Zaff at Secret Garden about 6 weeks ago and we showed each other various eliminates and he confirmed that he hadn't done this problem. So all I'm saying is that it's all very well acting as a spokesman for somebody else but unless you definitively know that they have done something don't just assume that they have.
Travs (and others), don't be put off from posting your finds on here. It is appreciated. Whether it has been done before or not, at least you're making the effort to share it with everyone else.
I fully agree with all of this.
Whilst I feel that there is a place for some venues to be left unrecorded, such as Grinah Stones, I think if any problems at an area are documented then the more the merrier, and I don't want to rely on the value judgments of a few people to decide what is worthy of my attention. If I know a problem exists I can decide soon enough whether I think it's worth climbing or not, but if I don't know of it's existence I don't have a choice at all. I have done lots of brilliant problems that I would have walked straight past if I hadn't been told about them.
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I, like Travs, invited mockery by claiming an unrecorded problem in News.
I've been looking to see who did the pissing but I can't find it, unless you mean this one (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,5782.msg79859.html#msg79859)?
A definitive bouldering guide is never going to happen on my shift.
You people are hard work, constantly missing the point like this.
I've no beef with the idea of a definitive guide, but I have been closely involved with enough guides to know its not realistic at all. Bouldering being much more play orientated than trad or sport, every bit of rock can have a worthwhile move. Getting these into print is a fool's errand; at some point there has to be a selection procedure.
We've all had a smirk at Gary Gibson's 'ceaseless tide of crap new routes', but somehow the bouldering equivalent is beyond reproach? Despite a far higher chance of them not even being new.
There are two sides to this; firstly publicising increasingly crap problems, and secondly claiming stuff likely done before as new.
I have no truck with this nonsense that the first claim is more important than the first climb. Either you believe in the worth of a historical record or you don't. If you discover what you've done has been done before by someone who didn't think it worth claiming then tough. If you think its worth recording then you should make that record as accurate as possible. If you find you are no longer interested in recording it then perhaps you should question your motives in the first place. Funny how losing that first ascent claim can suddenly give a man objectivity on quality...
So my suggestion is this; only if its beyond question new is it NEWS. Otherwise do us the favour of getting a photo, making a topo, and putting it in the beta forum as info to share. If it is new and classic you'll soon get the respect that's due. If its neither you won't look like a willy-waver. Then the folk who write the guides won't have to trek around to find a steaming pile of log that isn't worth including. And then bouldering consumerists like Andy B will get nice guides so they can go tick all the good problems.
And Sloper, you have an almighty cheek to call Paul Mitchell after that Stanage far right claim...
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To me the more popular the area and the lower the grade the more claiming seems like gratuitous willy-waving.
They aare stuff that has done before that is being claimed by increasingly desperate willy-wavers
If its neither you won't look like a willy-waver.
Good grief, man! Desist!
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having read this thread all the way through in one hit it looks like a lot of people aren't working or sit on the internet in the office.
sloper, travs, and r-mam all i can suggest is to get together and have a group hug.
this is how it works. if i climb 6a i have no interest in reporting a 4b problem i've just done. if i climb 7a i have no interest in reporting a 6a problem i've just done. when the grades get closer to what more people perceive as a good grade ie 7a i will start reporting. the fact that i have climbed a 6a that someone claims is new x years later doesn't change the fact that i climbed it x years before, whether i could be arsed to report it (see this paragraph for details) or not.
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the fact that i have climbed a 6a
Now THAT is news!
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I, like Travs, invited mockery by claiming an unrecorded problem in News.
I've been looking to see who did the pissing but I can't find it, unless you mean this one (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,5782.msg79859.html#msg79859)?
A definitive bouldering guide is never going to happen on my shift.
You people are hard work, constantly missing the point like this.
I've no beef with the idea of a definitive guide, but I have been closely involved with enough guides to know its not realistic at all. Bouldering being much more play orientated than trad or sport, every bit of rock can have a worthwhile move. Getting these into print is a fool's errand; at some point there has to be a selection procedure.
We've all had a smirk at Gary Gibson's 'ceaseless tide of crap new routes', but somehow the bouldering equivalent is beyond reproach? Despite a far higher chance of them not even being new.
There are two sides to this; firstly publicising increasingly crap problems, and secondly claiming stuff likely done before as new.
I have no truck with this nonsense that the first claim is more important than the first climb. Either you believe in the worth of a historical record or you don't. If you discover what you've done has been done before by someone who didn't think it worth claiming then tough. If you think its worth recording then you should make that record as accurate as possible. If you find you are no longer interested in recording it then perhaps you should question your motives in the first place. Funny how losing that first ascent claim can suddenly give a man objectivity on quality...
So my suggestion is this; only if its beyond question new is it NEWS. Otherwise do us the favour of getting a photo, making a topo, and putting it in the beta forum as info to share. If it is new and classic you'll soon get the respect that's due. If its neither you won't look like a willy-waver. Then the folk who write the guides won't have to trek around to find a steaming pile of log that isn't worth including. And then bouldering consumerists like Andy B will get nice guides so they can go tick all the good problems.
And Sloper, you have an almighty cheek to call Paul Mitchell after that Stanage far right claim...
If you're going to have a pop why not put it in full size text, as for having a cheek I've got four and I'm not looking for you to kiss any of them. Or is the wee thing above Toady's Wall the last great problem on grit?
As for missing the point with due respect I find your logic rather confused. You seem to think that it's fine to report things via a topo but not in a 'news' thread; I must have missed the class which covered that distinction.
Let's take the next issue, I can't recall you taking this stance with problems that are little more than s(h)it starts to existing problems or mindless eliminates; if I'm wrong feel free to correct me.
Moving on, is there some UKAS test for quality, some assay, some formula that I've missed?
Now I report something that turns out to have been climbed before, and it's my responsibility to go back and change the original report? Get a grip. The problems that I did, are when the scrittle subsides, quality moves, on good rock in a pleasant situation. Have you seen me spraying the 'news' over the whole web, I thought they were new, with Bluebrad I cleaned them, I climbed them I claimed them, then J L who ever he is, said he'd done them before. It's on the thread and there you go, do you need me to repeat what J L has said? What would that add.
Now let's move to guides, which you suggest are the real arbiter of what shoul go in and what's a pile of poo. How much on the face of business should go in, or what about the left and right arete eliminates on the 'ultimate gritstone experience'.
So in short, if you're going to take a position try thinking it through first.
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there's stuff being claimed recently in the churnet that boyson and others would have done years ago.at least down there its out of the way,we came across a big bouldering roof about 5 minutes up and left behind gentlemans rock that has been cleaned and chalked.i doubt that the old timers climbed on that tho.would have been passed of as not worth it.
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Or more likely not looking at all.
Oh but I am, I am, and I have word of a mighty boulder perched hi o'top a moor in deepest Bumblefuk...
My Hill walking credentials notwithstanding, seeking is one thing, climbing is another as you know fiend :whistle:
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So it boils down to the fact that its been put in the wrong thread, no need to get so upset, its been a slow week in bouldering news so it can go in, who cares? I mean the house of commons speaker resigns and whats on the front page of the tabloids, Peter & fucking Jordan
I for one am gratefull for the information, as soon as we can work out were these problem are I shall hopefully go and do/try them.
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Cresta log hahahahaha
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...And then bouldering consumerists like Andy B will get nice guides so they can go tick all the good problems...
In what way am I "bouldering consumerist," could you explain what one of those is? Is this an attempt at an insult Adam?
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Yay. its started again. why do we all turn into such twats sometimes?
Dense is my sage.
having read this thread all the way through in one hit it looks like a lot of people aren't working or sit on the internet in the office.
sloper, travs, and r-mam all i can suggest is to get together and have a group hug.
this is how it works. if i climb 6a i have no interest in reporting a 4b problem i've just done. if i climb 7a i have no interest in reporting a 6a problem i've just done. when the grades get closer to what more people perceive as a good grade ie 7a i will start reporting. the fact that i have climbed a 6a that someone claims is new x years later doesn't change the fact that i climbed it x years before, whether i could be arsed to report it (see this paragraph for details) or not.
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How much on the face of business should go in, or what about the left and right arete eliminates on the 'ultimate gritstone experience'.
Green Mile was done before UGE, maybe the right arete was too.
Face of Business should be renamed Face of LOG, it's limestone on grit, I can't think of a less inspiring bit of grit.
Paul Mitchell's new things are nonsense too.
I think JB probably has words to say on the logness of some new problems being claimed, not just yours.
In fact I suspect it's a general point about "claim everything" mentality, rather than just personal digs, although I know people just love to mistake things as personal digs.
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Green Mile was done before UGE, maybe the right arete was too.
Really? I would have thought that UGE was the line on that bloc - certainly is to my eyes but then what do I know.
bluebrad
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Just because guide books exist it doesn't mean you have to use them ... They're a useful tool , nothing more ...
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Ya rly, butters.
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Dense is my sage.
He's my Dill
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Dense is my sage.
He's my Dill
do??
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why do we all turn into such twats sometimes?
Must be the shit weather we've been having, and not being able to get out. Wish I'd seen this thread earlier though, I could have checked these new problems out and made my own mind up last night.
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Fuck me, its like losing your hand for stealing an orange. I must remember to double check my first ascent credentials at the risk of being raped and pilaged by the lynch mob.
Mr Long, I'm sure that we have all claimed something new, only to find out its a re-climb at some point - who gives a shit, at least somebody out there is still in touch with a sense of adventure, as opposed to throwing laps on the same old shit...
*get out clause - no offence meant to anybody - no, really.
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"The things I uncovered were very, very dirty including heather growing from some of the holds and the rock was very very scrittly but soon brushed up and is now nice and solid."
I've cleaned similar obscure east facing open moorland stuff that took only a few years to return to this state. At Upper Matlock Quarries yesterday evening I saw some problems that were returning to nature in a year after a major clean. If problems are being described for the first time in public and the grades are easy or middling, aren't claims best left as 'traditional' ?.
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Ooof! Offwidth in nail-on-head shocker!
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I think this thread went way wrong somewhere. If the crux of a problem is not putting your arm or leg or whole body on the boulder that's an inch away is it worth climbing let alone claiming? Having ventured out and done/try'd these new classics i can quite safely say (sorry boys) these are not.
I'll put my willy away now!
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there's stuff being claimed recently in the churnet that boyson and others would have done years ago.at least down there its out of the way,we came across a big bouldering roof about 5 minutes up and left behind gentlemans rock that has been cleaned and chalked.i doubt that the old timers climbed on that tho.would have been passed of as not worth it.
Greeting Mark- Not worth it or not possible? Not certain there were many 7c roofs around in those days!
There is definitely a need to record new problems. I assumed after climbing an old project (50 pence at Gentlemans) that it MUST have been done before (by Boyson or other Churnet regular), so didn`t bother to report it.
People should report any decent problems they feel are new- clearly it won`t be a first ascent if someone else makes a retro claim. But atleast we will know of the problems existance.
It is true that most problems and variants (below 7a) at the major crags were probably done at some point in the last 30 years. But if it is a decent problem/area then there is still a benefit to sharing it.