UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: PlainCroi$$ant on November 28, 2022, 01:03:46 pm
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I've somehow managed to never climb at any of the venues like Almscliffe, Caley, Earl Crag, Crookrise etc but I should have one full day in December near there when visiting friends.
If the weather is good, where would you recommend for 3 star bouldering between V5-V8?!
Thanks in advance!
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If in doubt on conditions and short on time, Almscliffe. Caley will most likely be minging, Crookrise and Earl can be grim cold especially if any wind.
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Great stuff, thanks Chris!
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Almscliffe and caley are pretty close to one another so you can always have a sniff around caley to see if it is dry and then sack it and go to the cliff, you will get the proper wharfedale experience that way
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Ask nearer the time and someone local can probably give you the best knowledge based on the forecast?
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Baildon ofc.
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Baildon ofc.
Only after West Vale Quarry obviously. More realistically, if the weather is bon, Slipstones and Simons Seat should be under consideration also.
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Depends on "near" and what time you can get out of scratcher on a cold December morning to make the most of the limited daylight.
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I've often found Brimham to be a good option when it's a bit harsh elsewhere. Obvious caveats about avoiding soft rock in damp conditions apply, but it's a large and varied crag with some bullet hard bits that are very quick drying (e.g. Joker's Wall). It has all aspects, a mixture of open areas and trees and it's not on a hilltop, you can usually find a bit that suits the conditions. It also has a wealth of great problems in that grade range, plus a fair amount of choss, you just have to do your research.
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For 3 stars in the V5-V8 range it would be Caley for me. The classics don't take long to dry out, 1-2 days is usually enough. Quality problems in that grade range below (these are guidebook grades before Will does his bit ;D )
New Jerusalem (7A), Ben's Groove Stand (7B), The Groove (7A), Not My Stile (6C+), The Great Flake (E6), Horn Rib (7A+), The Prow (7A+), One Man and His Dogmas (E5)
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Controversial opinion, but I think New Jerusalem isn't all that.
Often wet / near a wet streak which prevents the official start, that start is a bit of a weird not-a-sit-but-not-a-stand, and as well reported, it's suffered from over-brushing / over-use.
I was impressed / depressed by the amount of people spraying on Insta etc a while back who were taking the 7a having not done the start properly, and with the notoriously improved hold...
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Controversial opinion, but I think New Jerusalem isn't all that.
Often wet / near a wet streak which prevents the official start, that start is a bit of a weird not-a-sit-but-not-a-stand, and as well reported, it's suffered from over-brushing / over-use.
I was impressed / depressed by the amount of people spraying on Insta etc a while back who were taking the 7a having not done the start properly, and with the notoriously improved hold...
It's probably the only one on the list that might not be dry and has degraded to some extent but plenty of people like it for a reason, it's a cool move!
Personally I prefer Cruel Arete just to the left. Using the face holds for the right hand it's about 7A+ and criminally underrated.
Edit: Olly Parkinson has a video
https://www.instagram.com/p/BzpgMQ-jQZl/?igshid=MDJmNzVkMjY=
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Looks good, if a bit eliminate.
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I don't think it's eliminate at all, you simply climb the right hand side of the c.90 degree arete. The left hand side of the arete is a different problem. The crack isn't eliminated for the right hand side either, it just doesn't help after getting stood up.
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Thanks all. Super helpful. Although it looks like I’ll need a need a few weeks to sample all the best of the area!
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Further to Bonjoy's tip for Brimham, Bat Buttress there dries quite rapidly / fastest of most of the stuff there. You need to ask the landowner on your way over but there are a few things to go at there.
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That's terrible beta for the VS 5a jamming crack there ^^^
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Thanks all. Super helpful. Although it looks like I’ll need a need a few weeks to sample all the best of the area!
Or a lifetime....having lived and climbed in Yorkshire for 8 years now I'm repeatedly reminded there's flipping loads to do!
That is, if this godawful murk ever lifts.
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Almscliffe and caley are pretty close to one another so you can always have a sniff around caley to see if it is dry and then sack it and go to the cliff, you will get the proper wharfedale experience that way
+1 for Caley with Almscliff as plan b.
The full package is struggling to warm up at a cold shady Caley, whilst looking longingly at the glorious winter sun lit cliff.
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That is, if this godawful murk ever lifts.
This was kinda my point; I know I'm in E Lancs but the past few days the house has been shrouded in fog (and I can see Earl on a good say). The OP is best asking the week before based on the forecast if they're wanting to make the most of conditions.
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Almscliffe and caley are pretty close to one another so you can always have a sniff around caley to see if it is dry and then sack it and go to the cliff, you will get the proper wharfedale experience that way
The proper Wharfedale Experience is traditionally started with a visit to the Otley Caff (Sad RIP).
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Almscliffe and caley are pretty close to one another so you can always have a sniff around caley to see if it is dry and then sack it and go to the cliff, you will get the proper wharfedale experience that way
The proper Wharfedale Experience is traditionally started with a visit to the Otley Caff (Sad RIP).
The cafe/deli just north of Pool-in-Wharfdale is perfect for grabbing some Sausage rolls and pies on the way to Almscliffe though.
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Almscliffe and caley are pretty close to one another so you can always have a sniff around caley to see if it is dry and then sack it and go to the cliff, you will get the proper wharfedale experience that way
The proper Wharfedale Experience is traditionally started with a visit to the Otley Caff (Sad RIP).
Bridge cafe was popular amongst cyclists. C.25 years back a friend of mine who lived around the corner saw Jimmy Saville pullup outside his house - get a bike out the back of his van and cycle to the cafe. Where he pretended to have been on a big ride etc... a fraud then...
We used to have the £5 challenge there - ie eat £5 worth of food. No one did it...
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Dodge to the end. Don't know how many mornings I've had in there, nursing a hangover over a full English, flicking through the old YG Guide discussing where to go for the day.