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power club / Re: Power Club 750 22-28 April 2024

« Last post by ali k on Today at 07:20:39 am »

now they've changed to stupid (imo) by panel setting rather than by circuit.

They do this at one of the walls I go to, but the place is massive so it probably makes sense. (It’s by elevation rather than by panel). They could never set the whole circuit in a day and would involve moving barriers etc around too much even if they could. I quite like it cos every time I go there’s new problems to try. Their other smaller venue they still do by circuit though, which again makes sense.

Dunno if it’s just TCA being lazy/cost cutting though?

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shootin' the shit / Re: Cunty Drone Man - rural myth or real life rock star?

« Last post by SamT on Today at 07:12:58 am »

(repeatedly) failing on your current project [snip]. Get a grip.

Very good.. chapeau.

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power club / Re: Power Club 750 22-28 April 2024

« Last post by Aussiegav on Today at 06:53:09 am »

Thanks Duma.
Welcome Alba. I had a similar length break from climbing. 

This week,
Monday -

Finger board on 18mm edges
6x 10s hangs.  Total weight 76kg.
Still battling chest infection
Effort level 7/10

Tuesday
Elbow strength training

Wednesday
Rest

Thursday
Fingerboard on 18mm edge. Half crimp
Six 10sec hangs. Total weight 77.6kg. Felt good. 6/10 effort level
40min peloton Tabata ride



Friday
Rest day.  Elbow rehab

Saturday
Virgin Gym auto belays
2x6a
2x6b
6b+. Had 2 rests to work out moves. Rested 8min. Did next go
Tried another 6b+. Felt more complicated had about 3 rests to work out moves. Did next go.
6b+
6b,
6b

Good session with a bit of volume, elbow went well & felt fine after.


Sunday
Strength training at Virgin Gym

Managing 4x4 pistol squats with 4kg kettle bell. Legs & glutes very tight & sore afterwards. 

Managed 5 sets of 3 pull ups. Elbow getting stronger. Still needs a lot of strength at top of flexion point.

May get back to moderate bouldering in a few weeks from now

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power club / Re: Power Club 750 22-28 April 2024

« Last post by Duma on Today at 12:47:37 am »

Hi, hope it's cool to join in with this.

Hey alba, all welcome, more the merrier!

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power club / Re: Power Club 750 22-28 April 2024

« Last post by alba on Yesterday at 11:57:16 pm »

Hi, hope it's cool to join in with this.

M
T - evening indoor bouldering session, climbing v3  to v5. Doubt these are in reality those grades but they work relative to each other. Tried the moonboard's easiest problem but it's pointless at this stage ha. It's brutal until I lose some more weight and even then it's such powerful climbing.
W -
T - swam about half a mile
F -  bouldered a bit, making progress on a V3, then sport climbed. Nearly got to the top of a 6a and then got 2/3 of the way up a 6a+ onsight. Think I should be able to climb both in the next week or two.The sport climbs are graded pretty accurately I think

I don't own a car, cycling mileage is usually about 50-100 miles a week. Been back climbing about 2 months after a 10/15 year break.

68kg but only 5ft 3

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shootin' the shit / Re: Cunty Drone Man - rural myth or real life rock star?

« Last post by Tony on Yesterday at 11:30:04 pm »

That pricked Tony's bubble.

Now Pete, don’t be so premature with your interjections.

Yes, "dirty" words have a certain kick to them.  Which comes partly from other people's impulse to tut about this puerile and boring behaviour.

On the other hand, as someone who is frequently Droneless Falling Off While Shouting "F***" Woman, I don't feel like I can lay claim to any of C***y Drone Man's special charm. Being foul-mouthed alone doesn't cut it.

If a person chooses to get their “kicks” by offending others, what does that say about a person?

Shouting anything whilst (repeatedly) failing on your current project shows a lack of self-control and is penalised in many competition sports. Frankly, I think people (inc. Ondra) should be embarrassed by such behaviour. It’s just climbing a bit of arbitrary rock. Get a grip.

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news / Re: Bosiwad

« Last post by edshakey on Yesterday at 11:04:48 pm »

Noticed Dave Mc did his long term project at 8B+ [Bultitude], and followed the trend of not telling anyone for a month. Will Bosi repeated in in a day a few weeks back and held off with that news until Dave released his. I had thought this would be harder as its taken him a long time.

Footage of Will's ascent around 12:28 in this video

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power club / Power Club 750 22-28 April 2024

« Last post by Duma on Yesterday at 10:31:38 pm »

M - lunch, TCA, 120 min, blues (7A to 8A). Tried 8, did 3, incl one flash, all the moves on 2 others. Tried hard, skin and body knackered after.
T - aft/eve, Cheddar, lion rock. Mainly belaying but got up Cheddar Death Knell (7b+) in a couple of goes, though I'd been on it once before a couple of years ago. Felt tough, but I may just have been still feeling the effects of yesterday's session.
W -
T - eve, TCA, 120 min, first session now they've changed to stupid (imo) by panel setting rather than by circuit. Finished the 2 blues from Monday, then onto the new stuff. Blues, whites and blacks, 6B to 7Aish. Tried 11, did 10, 6 flashes, 1 second go that I should have flashed, 1 took a bunch of goes but fine when eventually worked out beta, 2 others took a few tries.
F - skin and elbow sore so canned climbing. 12 hr night shift.
S - aft/eve, TCA, 90 min. Mainly trying 2 on the front, blue and black. No ticks but decent progress. 12 hr night shift.
S - 12 hr night shift.

71.5 kg.

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shootin' the shit / Re: Cunty Drone Man - rural myth or real life rock star?

« Last post by petejh on Yesterday at 10:27:27 pm »

That pricked Tony's bubble.

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shootin' the shit / Re: Cunty Drone Man - rural myth or real life rock star?

« Last post by slab_happy on Yesterday at 09:55:57 pm »

The word 'c***y' was reclaimed by the queer voguing scene of the late 80s, and popularised in that idiom by Beyoncé's seminal 2022 album Renaissance.

So you’re saying UKB is a hang out of the queer voguing scene? Or that many users are guilty of cultural appropriation?

To be fair, I'm not sure Cunty Drone Man can be said to be "serving cunt." I suspect it would probably be more linguistically correct to say that he is "serving bouldering twat realness".

That said, that hasn’t been the word used on many occasions. Also, many posts in the thread, including the initial post, are fair enough. But quite a lot would appear purely for the titillation of their author, simply because of the word in question.

Had the word been “runt”, I posit that there would have been significantly less interest, despite being equally “euphonious” in any sonic sense.

Yes, "dirty" words have a certain kick to them.  Which comes partly from other people's impulse to tut about this puerile and boring behaviour.

On the other hand, as someone who is frequently Droneless Falling Off While Shouting "Fuck" Woman, I don't feel like I can lay claim to any of Cunty Drone Man's special charm. Being foul-mouthed alone doesn't cut it.