« Last post by Will Hunt on Today at 02:20:34 pm »
Fiend your movement technique is already really good from what I’ve seen of you climb.
I find this a very interesting statement. When I have climbed with Fiend or watched him climb on videos, I've sometimes caught myself thinking "huh. This is guy who wobbles up death choss for a laugh?"
Sometimes the Fiend is wont to cut loose for no reason. This happened at Witches, I think, and it was also his preferred sequence for swinging his left leg over and up to a high rockover at the end of the hard climbing on Metal Guru (hint: there's ample footholds to step the feet through nicely and do it static which helps if you're tired at that point - which you probably will be on redpoint). It's a really nice, flamboyant thing to watch but it must be crap for performance.
At the risk of embarrassing Fiend..
I think what you've pointed out is exactly why he has good technique. I.e. A climber who is able to recognise that a 'flamboyant cut loose and swing up' is a perfectly fine way to do a sequence while also being very good at shuffling upwards on tottering death choss ledges is undoubtedly someone who has a good repertoire of climbing technique. Compare to someone focussed mostly on bouldering or sport climbing who's got strong arms/fingers and is great on crimps or compression. Put them on tottering death choss and watch them turn into the world's shittest climber.
I've watched Fiend do bouncy dynamic high-step techniquey stuff on a technical groove proj I bolted in a granite quarry. Seems like a style he's well suited to - that kind of Dawes-esque quick hobbit-movement. Yet he's also decent at climbing slowly and carefully on collapsing ledges which demands balanced application of load and slow methodical progression.
This is a person who just needs some confidence in his forearm fitness!
No doubt it's nice to climb like that when you've got lots in reserve, but being good at that sort of thing isn't what's holding him back from whatever his goals might be.
I'll grant you that me and Matt are different climbers, geared in different ways, but I dropped the move on Metal Guru that I'm talking about on redpoint because I was too gassed to do it. I don't know if Fiend ever got to that point but it is definitely possible that he would have been too gassed. The point is that he had no plan to do that top bit efficiently, and ultimately if you want to explore the limits of your body's capabilities on steep limestone you're not going to do it by Dawesing around without your feet on.
Having read John's book, I can tell you that if Fiend goes to him he's going to get told to use his feet more. Maybe not when he's on his best behaviour and locked into death-shuffle mode, but definitely when he's safe and sound on bolts and switches off the part of the brain that tells him to keep his feet on.