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1
coaching / Re: Recommended coach for training, Manc / NW area.
« Last post by Will Hunt on Today at 02:20:34 pm »
Fiend your movement technique is already really good from what Ive seen of you climb.

I find this a very interesting statement. When I have climbed with Fiend or watched him climb on videos, I've sometimes caught myself thinking "huh. This is guy who wobbles up death choss for a laugh?"
Sometimes the Fiend is wont to cut loose for no reason. This happened at Witches, I think, and it was also his preferred sequence for swinging his left leg over and up to a high rockover at the end of the hard climbing on Metal Guru (hint: there's ample footholds to step the feet through nicely and do it static which helps if you're tired at that point - which you probably will be on redpoint). It's a really nice, flamboyant thing to watch but it must be crap for performance.


At the risk of embarrassing Fiend..

I think what you've pointed out is exactly why he has good technique. I.e. A climber who is able to recognise that a 'flamboyant cut loose and swing up' is a perfectly fine way to do a sequence while also being very good at shuffling upwards on tottering death choss ledges is undoubtedly someone who has a good repertoire of climbing technique. Compare to someone focussed mostly on bouldering or sport climbing who's got strong arms/fingers and is great on crimps or compression. Put them on tottering death choss and watch them turn into the world's shittest climber.

I've watched Fiend do bouncy dynamic high-step techniquey stuff on a technical groove proj I bolted in a granite quarry. Seems like a style he's well suited to - that kind of Dawes-esque quick hobbit-movement. Yet he's also decent at climbing slowly and carefully on collapsing ledges which demands balanced application of load and slow methodical progression.

This is a person who just needs some confidence in his forearm fitness!

No doubt it's nice to climb like that when you've got lots in reserve, but being good at that sort of thing isn't what's holding him back from whatever his goals might be.
I'll grant you that me and Matt are different climbers, geared in different ways, but I dropped the move on Metal Guru that I'm talking about on redpoint because I was too gassed to do it. I don't know if Fiend ever got to that point but it is definitely possible that he would have been too gassed. The point is that he had no plan to do that top bit efficiently, and ultimately if you want to explore the limits of your body's capabilities on steep limestone you're not going to do it by Dawesing around without your feet on.

Having read John's book, I can tell you that if Fiend goes to him he's going to get told to use his feet more. Maybe not when he's on his best behaviour and locked into death-shuffle mode, but definitely when he's safe and sound on bolts and switches off the part of the brain that tells him to keep his feet on.
2
chuffing / Re: UK Women Who've Recently Climbed >= 8a
« Last post by Nutty on Today at 01:13:33 pm »
I could have sworn I saw an Instagram story from Lucy Mitchell yesterday saying shed flashed an 8b but cant find any evidence of that. Did I just imagine/misunderstand this or did anyone else see it?

Shark reported it in significant repeats:https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg644947.html#msg644947

According to her Facebook story Lucy Mitchell flashed her first 8b - Im presuming at St Leger. Ive dropped her a message to find out which one
3
chuffing / Re: UK Women Who've Recently Climbed >= 8a
« Last post by Teaboy on Today at 01:00:46 pm »
I could have sworn I saw an Instagram story from Lucy Mitchell yesterday saying shed flashed an 8b but cant find any evidence of that. Did I just imagine/misunderstand this or did anyone else see it?
4
board construction FAQs / Re: How to build a woodie
« Last post by Fultonius on Today at 12:33:37 pm »
When I say " a bit shit" I've had a few screws rips threads, but most have been fine especially with longer screws.
5
board construction FAQs / Re: How to build a woodie
« Last post by bigironhorse on Today at 12:25:59 pm »
Hello.

Does anyone have any advice on hardwood Vs softwood ply for a home wall. Ideally I would use 18mm birch ply, but this costs around 600 for the amount I need I my area. Alternatively I could use softwood ply which would cost around 380.

Any advice on longevity, sturdiness, voids, flex much appreciated.

Here are the exact boards I am considering. Sorry it is in German:

Birch: https://www.hornbach.at/shop/Multiplexplatte-Birke-18x1250x2500-mm/5084835/artikel.html

Maritime Pine: https://www.hornbach.at/shop/Sperrholz-Seekiefer-II-III-2500x1250x18-mm-Zuschnitt-online-reservierbar/5194467/artikel.html

Advice on other options also appreciated. Thanks!

My board is built from the exact softwood ply you're looking at, also bought from Hornbach. It's excellent and no flex with the 18mm. Passt scho'  :2thumbsup:

Thanks for the replies. Have you had any problems with screw ons Mischa?
6
coaching / Re: Recommended coach for training, Manc / NW area.
« Last post by petejh on Today at 12:10:14 pm »
Fiend your movement technique is already really good from what Ive seen of you climb.

I find this a very interesting statement. When I have climbed with Fiend or watched him climb on videos, I've sometimes caught myself thinking "huh. This is guy who wobbles up death choss for a laugh?"
Sometimes the Fiend is wont to cut loose for no reason. This happened at Witches, I think, and it was also his preferred sequence for swinging his left leg over and up to a high rockover at the end of the hard climbing on Metal Guru (hint: there's ample footholds to step the feet through nicely and do it static which helps if you're tired at that point - which you probably will be on redpoint). It's a really nice, flamboyant thing to watch but it must be crap for performance.


At the risk of embarrassing Fiend..

I think what you've pointed out is exactly why he has good technique. I.e. A climber who is able to recognise that a 'flamboyant cut loose and swing up' is a perfectly fine way to do a sequence while also being very good at shuffling upwards on tottering death choss ledges is undoubtedly someone who has a good repertoire of climbing technique. Compare to someone focussed mostly on bouldering or sport climbing who's got strong arms/fingers and is great on crimps or compression. Put them on tottering death choss and watch them turn into the world's shittest climber.

I've watched Fiend do bouncy dynamic high-step techniquey stuff on a technical groove proj I bolted in a granite quarry. Seems like a style he's well suited to - that kind of Dawes-esque quick hobbit-movement. Yet he's also decent at climbing slowly and carefully on collapsing ledges which demands balanced application of load and slow methodical progression.

This is a person who just needs some confidence in his forearm fitness!
7
shootin' the shit / Re: Politics 2020
« Last post by TobyD on Today at 11:34:07 am »
The business news has been full of industry figures saying every day for the last 6 months that there were going to be huge issues with lorry drivers over the winter, and now...
Even the Transport Select Committee report published post-referendum in 2016 warned of exactly these shortages if the UK becomes relatively less attractive as a place for foreign drivers to work, as it may do as the consequences of Brexit play out.

No govt minister can ever say they werent warned.

Yup. Although they probably just weren't listening. Also, although there may be shortages across Europe, they don't have food and fuel shortages (or a CO2 shortage) across Europe. As pretty much every other European country has been eager to point out: https://www.politico.eu/newsletter/london-playbook/you-got-to-pump-it-up-mac-the-knife-heir-to-blair/ this is a consequence of Brexit, although there are clearly other factors, we're in the shit, and the EU aren't.
8
coaching / Re: Recommended coach for training, Manc / NW area.
« Last post by Fiend on Today at 11:16:48 am »
Thanks for the recommendations so far. I would definitely appreciate any more specific recommendations of professional coaches if anyone has them. Obviously I'll be discussing things in advance with anyone I contact!

So far it's John Kettle, Andy McVittie, and as below Ste Mac.


I saw a coach once for a day about 12 years ago, it was me and a mate whod had the day booked as a present from his wife. We met the coach in the peak and went climbing in cheedale. He asked us to have a go on various routes some within our grade and some just a little too hard for us to do in a sesh.
Was quite impressive how quickly the coach picked up on various aspects of our natural strengths/weaknesses, both in movement technique and fitness/power. He gave good feedback and advice during the day and then followed up a couple of days later with an email record of his observations, plus recommendations for how to train our weaknesses. Mine were basically - practise hip flexibility by sticking my toe up on something progressively higher and pretending its a small foothold that I need to step up on while keeping hips in close, and do lots of foot-on campussing to improve my PE.

It worked, and now my weaknesses hold me back on higher grades. Coach was Steve Mc-something..
That initial assessment (by an experienced and neutral coach) sounds like what I'm after, along with further follow-ups, and preferably the option to suggest "Lots of foot-on campussing will actually have you giving up on training in despair and sticking to Range HVS 4cs for the rest of your life, here are some less effective but possibly more fun alternatives that may be more suitable" or even just some tips tricks and tweaks to make foot-on campussing tolerable - for example.


Honestly Fiend, I think taking on board * the advice here (some similarity with Bechtel, but more applicable to your specific goal) and finding a really good board you can work at like the Chapel 45* will take you a long way towards achieving what youre after.

I'm definitely taking on board the advice of actual recommendations, but also the advice to be constantly challenged, and to use a board (partly because both of those are things I've started doing already). That video from DMac, which I did watch the first time around, is very nice and inspiring, including because he is clear at the start that it's good if the training is inspiring in itself, because then you're going to be motivated to do it (which is exactly what I alluded to in my initial request). I'm definitely happy to keep using a board, but there's lots of potential guidance and tweaking I would like to know about that training and indeed training overall.
9
power club / Re: Kraft Klub 602 20-26 Sept 21
« Last post by duncan on Today at 11:15:50 am »
Well done Sonia!

M - Dinas Cromlech (not a new crag) with Hobbit. Did Noah’s Warning and Pharoh’s Wall, pleasant and easier than I found them in 1978. I fretted about Foil most of the day, wondering whether to give it a try or not. Eventually I did and, despite a couple of tactical errors, battled up it as far as getting my left hand on top of the crag. Unfortunately it was the wrong part of the top of the crag and - like most of the UK - I’d run out of gas so off I came. With my all my weight through an outstretched left arm it felt a bit like Supersonic and I wonder if there was some subconscious damage limitation going on. Instinctively grabbed the rope and burnt my fingers.
T - Craig Ddu (new crag number 13). Blistered fingers well wrapped. Warmed-up on the pleasant Yellow Groove then led Yellow Wall (really good, definitive two and a half stars). Train back to London.
W - Walked 7km. Finger care.
T - Shoulders conditioning: side planks focusing on end range stability; end range elevation, in prone; handstands. Walked 10km.
F - Shoulders conditioning. Legs: squats, single-leg squats. Walked 13km.
S - Shoulders, legs. Drove to Pembroke.
S - St Govan’s East with The Writer. Heavy rain overnight so more adventurous venues were out. In between showers and the place condensing spectacularly around 4pm we managed four E1s and HVSs. Would have liked to have tried something harder like Serpent’s Tail but didn’t get it together in the 2 hours of OKish conditions.
M - bonus day! More heavy rain overnight and showery all day. Carag Y Barcud. Did the excellent Beyond the Azimuth (Foil for the E1 leader - physically harder than your average Pembs. E1 but sinker gear every 18”) and The Woodentops. Top-roped a damp Sinecure with two ropes on my back as The Hypocrite turned out to be wet. Kitten Claws also had wet streaks down it, somewhat to my relief. Great to be at the seaside despite non-ideal conditions.

Content to have tried Foil despite being irrationally anxious about it beforehand. Gave it a really good effort, happy I’ve still got this in me.  Slightly frustrated that a couple obvious tactical tweaks (warming-up on something harder than VS, downclimbing from the first hard bit) and stiffer shoes might have nudged me over the line. That’s the joy of onsighting. It would be ~6c to TR, and feels like 6c+ or ++ putting the gear in. A tough E3 for me. Hobbit is still up in Wales and gratifyingly reports Rhoscolyn E4s feel much easier! Or perhaps he’s just tickling my ego.

Plan: keep trying to onsight stuff whilst the temperatures are reasonable.
10
shootin' the shit / Re: Politics 2020
« Last post by Johnny Brown on Today at 11:09:15 am »
Quote
Labour governments are, and always have been, a rare thing

Rare is nonsense. LibDems in power, this century, is rare. Admittedly for anyone born post-1977 you've had 13 years of Labour and 31 of Tory, but 30% is still not rare. From 1945-2010 it is somewhat more balanced at 28:33 (years, approx, couldn't be arsed digging up and adding months) . Pretty successful for a party formed in 1900 to have been constantly in power or opposition (as in second biggest) since 1922. That's not to offer any approval or support for either.

What Labour seem completely blind to the fact is that they've lost Scotland with next to no chance to get it back. Without that they will never win on FPTP and will be at best in coalition with the SNP, briefly, as a condition of that will be a referendum on independence and following that Labour will lose power forever without PR.

The wider argument is that now surely a central tenet of being progressive is electoral reform. Without it Labour have little to offer the wider electorate they need to even be the biggest loser.
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