UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: Fiend on October 11, 2021, 09:50:18 am
-
:-\
-
Surely the 7A/B example across three grades is the sole preserve of those people who are still labouring under the mistaken belief that + grades are 'half grades' rather than an equal grading band in their own right?
Edit: maybe you're one of them, the example above is a flamboyant leap across 3 grades, namely 7A, 7A+ and 7B surely
-
At some point I will write a long article on latent variables and gaussian mixing models for practicing climbers. Suffice to say that there is evidence that central measures are better estimated when you require higher precision from the respondents than they could reasonably be able to distinguish.
-
How about the 6C/7B (or should it be 6C-7B) for really morpho problems?
-
I'd like to see the Trad / boulder could be a route / could be a problem used a lot more.
-
I'd like to see the Trad / boulder could be a route / could be a problem used a lot more.
Or even trad/sport/boulder for super-long cave problems with a highball exit? Who fancies 8c+/9a/8B/8B+/E9/E10?
-
would an r/x be going too far?
-
Not technically a slash grade, but the FRCC-style Mild Very Severe (with either a + or -) has got to be in with a shout for somehow fitting three more grades between HS and VS (or five if you count HS+ and VS-).
-
...
-
At some point I will write a long article on latent variables and gaussian mixing models for practicing climbers. Suffice to say that there is evidence that central measures are better estimated when you require higher precision from the respondents than they could reasonably be able to distinguish.
This, it makes perfect sense even without the idea of asking for too much precision. It's asking people to reliably bin a continuous variable with an imprecise and subjective measure. Like asking people to sort slugs into size categories to millimetre precision with a centimetre ruler.
-
ABO-
-
would an r/x be going too far?
It's there, 5th option on the poll. Sadly neglected, I suppose on a primarily bouldering forum people just don't care about having the most exact and appropriate trad grades to fit in with the other hundreds of thousands of trad grades in the UK.
ABO-
ABO/- , surely!
How about the 6C/7B (or should it be 6C-7B) for really morpho problems?
Don't be daft, this is all about precision and accuracy.
Or even trad/sport/boulder for super-long cave problems with a highball exit? Who fancies 8c+/9a/8B/8B+/E9/E10?
You do, assuming you can kneebar it down to 8b+/c/8A+/B/E8/E9 ;) But that is a good line of thinking at least.
I'd like to see the Trad / boulder could be a route / could be a problem used a lot more.
It's used very well throughout the BMC Peak Grit guides!
-
HVS/E1 - aka Mild Extreme hmmm
You mean E0 (https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/trad_e0_filling_the_gap_between_hvs_and_e1-63)
:lol:
-
Oh, yes, well I never :whistle:
-
HVS/E1 - aka Mild Extreme hmmm
You mean E0 (https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/trad_e0_filling_the_gap_between_hvs_and_e1-63)
:lol:
:clap2: :lol:
(ahem, I do actually find sport grades beside UK trad routes really helpful)
-
6b/+ deffo my favourite slash grade, particularly in Font...
-
What happens when you've finally entered a state of climbing subconsciousness that transcends the limitations generated by climbing grades???
-
You don't get any fucking likes on Insta that's for sure. And you're barred from YYFY for life.
-
What happens when you've finally entered a state of climbing subconsciousness that transcends the limitations generated by climbing grades???
You keep quiet about it, otherwise everyone thinks you are a weapons grade bellend
-
Honourable mention for the 6b- at Castle Inn, first A55 guide.