UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: Stewart on September 28, 2021, 10:28:10 pm
-
The top 100 7th grade boulder problems in Scotland. Possibly. Some definitely are. Others less so.. probably some glaring omissions too..
As much about the location and a tour of the country.
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=4987
Feel free to suggest others more deserving or it may just be a handy ticklist to point out some locations and problems that are relatively unknown.. there's a lot more than Torridon and Dumby!
-
I freely admit to have not done much at the grades, but Golden Brown Sit on Yukon boulder at Clash climbs pretty well, and is often in good nick (often too warm!).
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/clashfarquhar-8738/golden_brown_sit_start-105601
Who nominated North For the Day? Razor sharp crimps up a non line?
-
Who nominated North For the Day? Razor sharp crimps up a non line?
:sorry: I was trying to get a spread of venues as well and that seemed the obvious choice from Luath stones although I admit to never having been there.
There's quite a bit of guesswork for some areas. For example would be happy for Robbie et al to correct my Shiegra selections. :smart:
-
Fair enough!
Even though it's an eliminate, Two Peaches at Boltsheugh is a great prob (IMO). The people who give it a lower rating or grading generally don't follow the rules!
The Buzz, The Pit and Pain at Porty are generally regarded as the local classics, although I find the rock painfully sharp
-
Hiffle Piffs - not 7A, more like 6B+ (only a bit harder than Afterlife)
Bowfinger 7A ** - should replace Hiffle Piffs
Retroclaim - 7A ** - agree (not 7A+).
Mugsy 7A *** - should be on the Glasgow list
Monkey Spanking 7B ** - should be on the Glasgow (?) list
Spanking The Monkey 7A *** - definitely should be on the list, one of the very best in Scotland
Powerhouse 7A ** - could be considered as an option for Loch Sloy
Autumn Arete 7A/+ ** - could be added to Argyle
Le Toit du Cul de Mouton 7A ** - agree
Black Orc 7A ** - could be added to Lochaber
Clash Arete 7A+ *** - agree
Gale Force 7A *** - agree
The Razor's Edge 7A ** - could be added to Inverness, best 7A on the bloc.
Romancing The Stone 7A *** - definitely should be added to Highlands, could replace Razorback which is just an ugly lurch.
-
Glen Pean Mystery Climb should be removed, I don't think it's even a problem, let along quaity.
-
Pump Up The Jam on Skye should definitely be in there. One of the best things I've climbed anywhere.
Not that I've tried it, but Hell to the Liars on the big block below Bla Bheinn looks like it should be too (judging by the video).
-
The fairly new stuff at Findhorn is ace and should probably make it on here.
Woodstock and Garden Party there are both class
-
Cool list! It deserves a better platform than UKC ;)
I thought Pushmi-Poolewe was great near Kishorn. And Kishorn Groove looks classy.
In Glen Nevis Dan V's arete Sinewave is wicked. It says worrying landing, but fine with a spotter. And the 7A+ on MacLeods Block looks like it would be good but it never gets climbed...
At Loch Buie Nipple Attack (or whatever the direct route on the nose is) deserves a spot. Such good movement! And I thought hook and go sit was debatable at 7A... Certainly compared to some of the other 7A's on your list! But then 7A is a grade range.
-
Pump Up The Jam on Skye should definitely be in there. One of the best things I've climbed anywhere.
Is nothing else in Coire Lagan in the 7s? Surely Chieftan must be just into that grade.
-
I knew this was going to be fun :punk:
Hiffle Piffs - not 7A, more like 6B+ (only a bit harder than Afterlife)
Bowfinger 7A ** - should replace Hiffle Piffs
Retroclaim - 7A ** - agree (not 7A+).
I find hiffle piffs desperate, never 6B+, Bowfinger stand is great but only 6C and the ss is nasty. Retroclaim is more like 7A which is weird as Roddie gave it 7A+ and the 7B next to it is much more like 7C
Mugsy 7A *** - should be on the Glasgow list
Monkey Spanking 7B ** - should be on the Glasgow (?) list
Spanking The Monkey 7A *** - definitely should be on the list, one of the very best in Scotland
No, No and No ;D
Powerhouse 7A ** - could be considered as an option for Loch Sloy
Autumn Arete 7A/+ ** - could be added to Argyle
Didn't know about Powerhouse, will check it out. AA was very close but slightly let down by it's location, it's ok but not amazing
Le Toit du Cul de Mouton 7A ** - agree
Black Orc 7A ** - could be added to Lochaber
Good shout!
Clash Arete 7A+ *** - agree
Gale Force 7A *** - agree
The Razor's Edge 7A ** - could be added to Inverness, best 7A on the bloc.
Romancing The Stone 7A *** - definitely should be added to Highlands, could replace Razorback which is just an ugly lurch.
I preferred the latter but my lurch wasn't ugly.. you're probably right on this one to be fair
-
Pump Up The Jam on Skye should definitely be in there. One of the best things I've climbed anywhere.
The awake version of myself has just realised that this is a 7th grade thread. Oh well. I'm sure people who don't like jamming would give it 7A.
-
Glen Pean Mystery Climb should be removed, I don't think it's even a problem, let along quaity.
I added this as part of le tour. Basically to complete the list you need to get to Glen Pean and climbing something..anything. 7A for the approach.
I will review all the suggestions and try and update. And if you're going to suggest something please also suggest what it would replace!
-
The list in full
Climb name Grade Crag name
SW SCOTLAND
Blacker than Black f7C Girvan Bloc
Wacke Races f7C+ *** Monreith
Broken Obelisk f7C *** Garheugh Port
Hiffle Piffs f7A ** Garheugh Port
Retroclaim f7A+ Rankin Boulder
The Witch f7B+ ** Sandyhills
Craig's Wall f7B ** Thirlstane
Shrinking Violet SS f7C+ *** Thirlstane
Stew's Wall f7A+ ** Cairnhead
GLASGOW
Pongo Arete f7A+ ** Dumbarton Rock
Malky f7B+ * Dumbarton Rock
Mestizo Traverse f7B ** Dumbarton Rock
Silver Back f7C *** Dumbarton Rock
Slap Happy f7A ** Dumbarton Rock
Wizard Sit Start f7A ** Craigmore
Abracadabra f7A *** Craigmaddie
Solus Rex f7C+ ** Lennoxtown Boulders
Gordon Bombay f7C *** Lennoxtown Boulders
Far from the Maddening Crowd f7C ** Craigton
ARGYLE
Turbinal Nose f7C *** Glen Croe Boulders...
Precious f7C *** Glen Croe Boulders...
Ace of Spades f7A+ ** Glen Croe Boulders...
So Jackie O f7B ** Kennedy Boulder
Splurge f7A+ * Loch Sloy Boulders
Free Energy f7B+ *** Loch Sloy Boulders
60 Minute Mullet f7A+ *** Mini Magic Wood
Arnold Quartzenegger f7A Mini Magic Wood
The Sloping Ledge f7A Ardlui Boulders
The Throttler f7B *** Loch Lomond, West...
Out of the Blue f7C *** Loch Lomond, West...
Jenny's Bay f7C Carrick Castle
Broadsword f7C *** Glen Massan
The Croe Road f7B *** Dubh-lic Boulders
A Feast for Croes f7C *** Dubh-lic Boulders
CENTRAL HIGHLANDS
Inhibited Mania f7C *** Glen Lednock...
Reiver's Logic f7A+ * Glen Lednock...
Glass Shieling Project f7B+ Balnacoul Castle...
Rollercoaster f7C *** Balnacoul Castle...
Bro-Down f7C+ *** Weem Crags
40 Minute Man f7A+ ** Weem Crags
An Electric Feel f7B+ ** Dunkeld, Cave Crag
The Tombstone f7B+ *** Ben Ledi Boulders
Cortège Noir f7A *** Ben Ledi Boulders
The Zealot f7B ** Glen Ogle Boulders
Le Toit du Cul de Mouton f7A ** Red Craig (Glen...
LOCHABER
Pagan Uilleann f7A+ *** Nevis Bouldering
The News in Pidgin Gaelic for White Settlers f7C+ *** Nevis Bouldering
Catch 22 f7C ** Nevis Bouldering
Hamish f7A *** Nevis Bouldering
Them Bones f7B+ *** Ardgour Boulders
The Perfect Catch f7C+ *** Ardgour Boulders
Arisaig Original f7B *** Arisaig Cave
Glen Pean Mystery Climb f7A Splitter Crag
ABERDEEN
Optimus Prime Sitter f7C+ *** Cammachmore Bay
Clash Arete f7A+ *** Clashfarquhar
North For A Day f7A ** Luath's Stone...
INVERNESS
Strongbow f7A+ *** Creagan Soilleir
Gale Force f7A *** Creag Bhuidhe...
The Catch f7B ** Scatwell Boulder
Knife Wound f7A+ *** Duntelchaig
Drosera rotundifolia f7B Duntelchaig
The Dagger f7A *** Duntelchaig
The Big Lebowski f7A *** Ruthven Boulder
Barry Manilow f7A *** Ruthven Boulder
The Scientist f7B *** Brin Rock
Susurrus f7C+ *** Brin Rock
Farr Side Facet f7C *** Farr Boulder
Negative Progression f7A+ *** Rooftown/Ruadha nan...
Ginger Rides Again f7B *** Cummingston
Amateur Acrobatics f7A+ *** Primrose Bay
Coastess f7C Primrose Bay
HIGHLANDS
Escutcheon f7C Torridon Celtic...
The Annatomist f7C+ Annat Boulders
Malcolm's Arete f7B *** Torridon Celtic...
The Mission f7B *** Torridon Celtic...
Stokes Croft f7C+ Torridon Celtic...
The Essence f7B+ *** Torridon Celtic...
The Balgy Prow f7A *** The Balgy Boulder
Three Streaks (and you're out) f7A+ *** Annat Boulders
The Universal f7B *** Coire nan Arr...
End of Days f7B *** Kishorn Boulders
Don't Mess with the Shek f7A Sanctuary Cave
The Main Issue f7B *** Reiff in the Woods
Red Handed f7A *** Reiff in the Woods
Rubha Dubh Dubh f7C+ Reiff - Roinn a'...
Razorback (Boulder Problem) f7A Reiff - Roinn a'...
Facet f7A ** Ardmair Diamond
Zeus f7A *** Sheigra Bouldering
Ruffies f7B ** Rispond
Simple Jack f7C *** Rispond
ISLANDS
Shroom Doom f7A *** The Mushroom
Vertigo f7B Coire Nan Ceum
Hook and go, sit-start f7A *** Loch Buie
Serious Music f7B *** Hallival Boulders
Normal People f7B *** Hallival Boulders
Snake Attack f7A *** Ghrunnda Boulders
Screapadal Prow f7C+ *** Screapadal Path...
Just MTFU f7B ** Aird Mhighe Crag
Hard Lines f7A+ Clisham Pass
Cnipped in the Bud f7A+ Uig Sea Cliffs...
-
I wish I'd got a video of Hiffle Piffs. It's a few grades easier than Bowfinger - and the latter was voted as 7A by the curator of the top 100 List you've linked, I'd trust his judgement. In terms of the Afterlife slab, I got very familiar with it, and if you have HP at 7A, then AL is 6C+ or so, Half Life is 7B, etc.... (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TKp7vQf3zUU/XH-q-xvsgCI/AAAAAAAACfU/jBIWFE0gS58un1JscLiaXOWjfej02bQPgCLcBGAs/s1600/gargheughtopo.jpg), if you're going to serious overgrade something on that slab it might as well be Half Life.
Mugsy is excellent for Dumby, a total classic by consensus and arguably better and more interesting than Slap Happy.
Ask Geek about Spanking The Monkey - "one of the best problems in Scotland". This is probably because it's one of the best problems in Scotland. As far as I can tell the list is 100 Best 7s In Scotland, not 100 Most Aesthetic Locations For 7s In Scotland. Actually in terms of climbing (and line) it's one of the best problems in the UK, if it was on the grit you wouldn't be able to get on it for queues. Monkey Spanking could theoretically be left out because the climbing is not quite as good as the line.
-
Good list. Agree about Teddy's Findhorn stuff, especially Woodstock. Good to see Coastess on there but I've heard rumours it might not be a 7, more like an 8. I'd add QED on, and maybe swap Drosera for Untrained Ear, or the Settler. Tsurugi is also meant to be amazing, and An Sgurr sitter is top quality.
Third Wave in Strathconon looks incredible, but nobody has ventured through the bracken to repeat it yet I don't think.
A damning indictment of Portlethen bouldering there too (but fair)!
Morar Monster at the Morar boulders was excellent, I thought!
Clach-mheallan at Reiff i'th'woods (actually this is 9A)
The list needs more Ruthven eliminates and link ups.
No doubt I'll think of more as the day goes on.
-
I think Cnipped in the Bud should be replaced by The Cnipper. The Cnipper is great whereas I thought CitB was a bit of a non-line (and impossible!). I didn't try Traighd Route (extension to The Cnipper) but it also looks very good.
-
I wish I'd got a video of Hiffle Piffs. It's a few grades easier than Bowfinger - and the latter was voted as 7A by the curator of the top 100 List you've linked, I'd trust his judgement.
:clap2: i really think it's way harder than Bowfinger, i have climbed the latter a few times since and it always feels straightforward, the slabs are all similar and i just picked the one that was 7A on ukc tbh, i wont argue though.
Mugsy is excellent for Dumby, a total classic by consensus and arguably better and more interesting than Slap Happy.
i'm not sure about that, SH is such a basic obvious line that i think it's a better benchmark and more reflective of Dumby. All subjective though
Ask Geek about Spanking The Monkey - "one of the best problems in Scotland". This is probably because it's one of the best problems in Scotland. As far as I can tell the list is 100 Best 7s In Scotland, not 100 Most Aesthetic Locations For 7s In Scotland.
Who's Geek? Being the best is always a mixture of moves, line and setting. Perhaps it could squeeze in ahead of mestizo traverse then
-
Neil Mcgeachy
-
Appreciate all the other comments as well, although i've only replied to Fiend's valued feedback so far.
Good list. Agree about Teddy's Findhorn stuff, especially Woodstock. Good to see Coastess on there but I've heard rumours it might not be a 7, more like an 8.
Wacke Races falls into that category too
A damning indictment of Portlethen bouldering there too (but fair)!
:agree:
Clach-mheallan at Reiff i'th'woods (actually this is 9A)
:agree:
-
I reckon Coastess will remain in the 7s, maybe with a +. Will depend a lot on conditions though.
Clach-mheallan is great (agree that it's nails!) but maybe not as good as Red Handed as a line.
Personally I felt that Wooden Nickles and The Settler are both better than Dagger/Knife Wound on that wall, but that might not be objective as they were harder for me and thus more interesting. Either Dagger or Knife Wound could get bumped for Woodstock at Findhorn though, it's total class. And what about Hyperborea or is that better off left as E7?
I think for the Central Belt, Spanking The Monkey is very worthwhile. Could definitely go on instead of something at Dumby. Personally I prefer Slap Happy to Mugsy because it feels so uniquely pure.
At Sheigra Zeus is a stand-out line but personally I felt no desire to climb it/die trying. Doppleganger SS might be a better boulder problem on that rock. The Promontory gneiss is also worth including - good problems such as Cold Steel, Chimera (Low Start) or Singing Sloth could squeeze on.
Good list!
-
Appreciate all the other comments as well, although i've only replied to Fiend's valued feedback so far.
LOL!! Still it's a good topic to back and forth about.
A damning indictment of Portlethen bouldering there too (but fair)!
:agree:
Clach-mheallan at Reiff i'th'woods (actually this is 9A)
:agree:
:agree: too
-
Clach-mheallan is great (agree that it's nails!) but maybe not as good as Red Handed as a line.
Red Handed is in no way a boulder problem!
At Sheigra Zeus is a stand-out line but personally I felt no desire to climb it/die trying. Doppleganger SS might be a better boulder problem on that rock. The Promontory gneiss is also worth including - good problems such as Cold Steel, Chimera (Low Start) or Singing Sloth could squeeze on.
Promontory gneiss definitely needs to be included. Chimera Sit Start Total Extension? Bound for the Waves sitter is excellent.
-
Oh yeah, forgot BFTW ss - great problem worthy of the list!
-
Good thread this. Few thoughts from me:
Clach-mheallan has always felt stern at 7A but 7A+ feels about right, but agree Red Handed is a far better line and problem (it is a problem Andy!). At RITW I'd include TP&QC before Clach-mheallan (and that one is 9A).
I wouldn't include Don't Mess with the Shek in a list of the top problems in the area. It's good climbing on great rock but more of a micro-route than boulder problem. Even with a "pad party of send train bellends" (Fiend, 2019) falling off up high wouldn't be fun.
Facet at Ardmair didn't feel hard enough to be 7A to me, but certainly is top quality. I think Ian T gave it 6C+ but it was bumped to 7A in Boulder Scotland.
And in my book Barry Manilow at Ruthven shouldn't make the list. It's just a grovel! Agree that Razors Edge is a better problem and an actual line.
-
And in my book Barry Manilow at Ruthven shouldn't make the list. It's just a grovel!
Not if you do it properly :whistle:
Although it is a good problem, it's probably not one of the top problems in Scotland to be fair!
-
What's the proper way? I seem to recall it involved udging over the bulge off a high left foot to reach a quartz cauliflower far back. And some random rule lower down about not using the jug that's 5cm right of the hold you are allowed to use.
-
Hmmm, nothing is out on Barry Manilow. Barry Manilower, on the other hand...
Match the slightly higher rail of crystals, left heel on the bulge, and lock static to the cauliflower. Graceful!
-
Betts always told me the jugs were out. Not sure where he got that from though.
And on reaching the cauliflower I then have to udge my hips over the bulge in a most ungracious manner. All good fun, but yep, not one of Scotland's best.
-
or Ruthven's best...
-
:whistle:
-
He's lurking...
Come on Betts, don't be shy.
-
For what its worth, in terms of Sheigra, its a shame there is only one there. Particularly given that Rispond has 2 and is a significantly smaller venue (don't know how good Ruffies is cause I've not tried it, would be good to hear how others think it compares to RSVP which I really liked).
Zeus is undoubtedly one of the most impressive lines up there, but to the best of my knowledge I'm the only one to have climbed it. Biohazard has seen more ascents and is brilliant.
Another from the Promontory would make sense (different rock, amazing problems). Perhaps Singing Sloth or Bound for the Waves SS would have been good to include. Cold Steel is also very good.
But I would say that. Proud of my patch..... :)
-
:whistle:
:o :bow:
-
But I would say that. Proud of my patch..... :)
And so you should be! I'd love to get up there but not sure its suitable for young kids. I'll definitely work a few more in and make some adjustments. It's just choosing what to take out is the trouble.. that's a good thing though.
-
but not sure its suitable for young kids.
No, it really isn't. The stuff next to the beach is fine. But the promontory and land of giants both have quite serious approaches. I managed to wrangle it so my own kids were in France with their Grandparents :)
Droman pier is family friendly and has some nice stuff. All the details are on UKC.
-
Cool list, I'd give you a waddage point if I knew how.
Why limit to 100 though? It would be even better if you just opened it out to include all the problems above an arbitrary level of quality.
And even though it isn't all about Dumby, you should really have a bit more Dumby :lol:
Mugsy, Mestizo Sit, Totality, The Shield...
-
Not that I've tried it, but Hell to the Liars on the big block below Bla Bheinn looks like it should be too (judging by the video).
I didn't know that block had been developed, where can I find the video?
-
Ruthven-
Barry is NOT a 7 even if you eliminate and don't use the cauliflower. Great problem though.
Neither is Lebowski but should be on a must do list.
Agree that both Razors Edge and QED should go on {Mike Lee mentioned that QED is probably the best climb he has done in Scotland, Praise indeed}.
DunT-
Drosera should probably not go in {i think Benjy would agree it's Not the kingline of the bloc let alone Scotland}
Dagger and the Settler should go in
Rooftown-
Neg Prog should come off, its not the best on that bloc or Strathnairn.
Primrose-
Amateur Acrobatics is class and should be on everyone's tick list.
Cummingston-
No votes for Finger Licker?
Sheigra-
Something at the Promontory would well be worth adding.
I would love to repeat Zeus but i don't have 85 thousand pads, Amazing line.
Arisaig Cave-
should come off{its ok climbing but only if its raining everywhere else}
How about a BEST IN SCOTLAND or Desert island bloc list {forget the grade} ?
-
As mentioned already by SAChris - Hell to the Liars 7b on Bla Bheinn
https://www.instagram.com/tv/CEDBxnpD4h1/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
https://www.instagram.com/p/CQohVqUDF_r/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
-
Not me, can't claim credit. Looks class tho'
-
Sorry, it was BAndy who mentioned
-
There is another impressive big block approached by the scree slope beneath the Great Prow on Bla Bheinn, over on the right, obviously seen from the path... Just in case you're ever back there and feel inspired to carry a pad even further.
-
The one way up on the boulder terrace below Clach Glas?
https://www.flickr.com/photos/49159768@N00/29949158942/
I went for a look at this the day I did HTTL. Wild location for a boulder! Deffo some decent bits to do on it. Unfortunately the best lines are too close to the edge. You probably wouldn't stop bouncing for a few hundred metres if you fell off!
-
That's the one. Top scouting, I've only checked it out when descending from the Putting Green. And yes, you'd need two spotters on ropes or something for the downhill side, might be pushing the reasonable lengths to which most humans would go for a boulder problem...
There's also another better hidden one further north below that east face face of Clach Glas, above the little gorge than runs down between it and Sgurr nan Each. Not quite as impressive, but not troubled by a death landing.
-
:off: but browsing through the list I come across a particular boulder that says in the heading 'ALL PROJECTS ARE CLOSED ON THIS BLOC'.
First thought: is this a thing for boulder problems, as opposed to sport routes where someone has put the effort in to bolt them?
Second thought: I suppose it's fair enough for boulders that have taken a fair bit of cleaning etc, but I'd go more down the line of 'please don't steal my project' rather than 'CLOSED'.
Third thought: good way to advertise unclimbed problems to anyone who would steal your proj...
-
:agree:
-
It can take a bit of cleaning. But yeah stating they they're closed (in caps locks or otherwise) would goad me on.
On the flip side I sometimes struggle to see why closing bolted lines is any more legit than boulders or trad routes. Yes it takes effort but it can be so proprietary... This bit of wall is mine until I say etc just because I own a big drill... Like you say, the way it is asked and the individuals approach makes all the difference.
-
No No....The developer ran out of money so there is no longer the funding to complete the projects without the proper Insurance on That particular bloc.
We are hoping for a positive development soon.
-
Eh? What's the situation there? Does the landowner require developers to have insurance to clean and climb new problems? What about would-be repeaters, do they need insurance too?
-
Yes Gaz we need ALL the insurances.
Unless you know someone within the Highland Council, then its fine :tease:
-
I'm suspecting scrag is in wind-up mode.
-
:off: but browsing through the list I come across a particular boulder that says in the heading 'ALL PROJECTS ARE CLOSED ON THIS BLOC'.
First thought: is this a thing for boulder problems, as opposed to sport routes where someone has put the effort in to bolt them?
Second thought: I suppose it's fair enough for boulders that have taken a fair bit of cleaning etc, but I'd go more down the line of 'please don't steal my project' rather than 'CLOSED'.
Third thought: good way to advertise unclimbed problems to anyone who would steal your proj...
Which crag is that?
-
It was Rooftown, but since I drew attention to it, said notice has disappeared :ninja:
Definitely going exploring at Rooftown next time I'm in the area...might invite some strong friends along too :lol:
-
Ok
so it's ironic that on a separate thread there is a discussion on how to keep things friendly on UKB and encourage more people to post.
I no longer moderate on Rooftown{ i had forgotten about the Closed Projects thing} , When you highlighted it i immediately asked the present moderator to take it down. With hindsight it was not the best way to word things.
I was in the meantime furiously back peddling in order to reverse an oversight {sorry Gaz for the wind up}
I think it's a shame that you feel its your right to insinuate your intension to sweep in and take a line on a bloc you know nothing about.
Stu and i worked really hard to clear the bloc in question so it doesn't seep, We grafted to build a stable platform in order to get a first ascent.
I am not saying i own the rock, far from it. But if someone were to tick of a line before i had a fair go i would be heartbroken.
Rob
-
Don't panic Rob, I was entirely not being serious.
Sorry if that wasn't obvious!
I'd be gutted if someone nipped in and climbed a project that I'd spent time grooming to a climbable state, and would never knowingly do the same to someone else.
Sounds like you just got your comeuppance for the wind-up though :P
-
Yes, I also agree regards respecting folks' projects, especially where there has been work put in. Deffo worth wording requests as sweetly as possible though, as ultimately people have the right to ignore you if they see fit and although it's a crappy thing to do they haven't broke any hard and fast rules of climbing. I tend not to publicise anything I want to do myself and if I do publicise then I definitely consider it likely to get done by someone else if I'm not quick about getting it done. I also think any claim on a project, however tenuous, is also pretty time limited. I'm generally not psyched about people holding known projects for multiple years.
-
I can concur that whilst Drosera is good fun and hard, it's not had any repeats to qualify it for the list really. (Hint hint). Untrained Ear is a class problem at DunT though it could be swapped out for for sure.
Vid of Drosera here for context: https://vimeo.com/518260501
Definitely some good link ups on Ruthven too.
Barry Span Commander at Barry is one of the best 7s I've done locally too. Great movement and only one way to do it!
-
With the utmost of respect I don't think we can include link ups at Ruthven in a list of the best problems in the country!
I agree with Bonjoy, if I don't want folk to come and try stuff I won't publicise it. On the flipside, in one case I made it very clear that a problem was an open project and felt very gratified when it was done and the FAist thanked me for my efforts in cleaning and publicising.
Slightly :offtopic: but I don't think that many people know quite how much effort it takes to get some stuff clean and climbable. I do totally understand wanting to have a fair go at something after putting in loads of time prepping it.
-
I agree Gaz, Link ups at Ruthven are good but probably not Scotland standard.
I cant argue with your way of operating, You have a long and varied history of first accenting in the Highlands that i have huge respect for. I think for this reason you have a clearer understanding of the work and sacrifice that goes into not just cleaning a line but developing a whole area.
On more than one occasion my hand has been forced to reveal blocs/lines/areas before they were complete by folk stumbling over them or by random chat. This has generally been fine as most of the climbing community respects the rule of "You clean it, You get first go".
i also agree that there is a time limit on this if folk are lining up behind you. {Not really an issue for me as most of you wads don't climb my stuff}.
I have and continue to share cleaned problems with passionate locals and folk who can be arsed to walk in to the various hidden away places i find.
-
Back on Topic
My pick of the best unknown lines from Strathnairn that might make the list :-\
Rooftown-
Reptile Disfunction
Blackjack
Kansas city shuffle
Raphael sit
Barry Valley-
Shut your Moustache
Barry span commander
Equinox
Dunlichity-
Marla
Brin-
Sharmoth
-
It's a strange one. On one hand if closing projects or whole areas is deemed ok you have a weird "I saw it first" playground mentality. What's the deadline? 1 month? A year? 5? how local do you have to be to claim an area like this?
On the other hand if you play by the usual rules and just keep quiet and hope noone hears about it the community can miss out on a new area for years to decades.. and then you end up with a mess of retro claiming too... :shrug:
I think most on here know how much effort is required. But agree it's not always obvious to people just starting
-
Fortunately in Scotland if anyone really wants to do their own FA they can generally just walk into the wilderness and find one. No shortage of unclimbed boulders. Finding something new that is relatively close to the road with a nice flat/dry landing though.....
I'm back at work today so will endeavour to update some of the changes to my list!
-
Not sure what else on the NE Coast should go in; a few well regarded 7s at Clashfarquar, and a handful at Pow Kebbuck / Sharmasheugh, but not sure what is still climbable there since the block in the roof collapsed; not heard of anyone going for ages.
-
I went twice in January but was thwarted both times by seep'n'grease. Thomnomnom went a few weeks ago. There's a few dedicated locals who even make the trip over from Inverness occasionally... When did the roof collapse?
-
It's a strange one. On one hand if closing projects or whole areas is deemed ok you have a weird "I saw it first" playground mentality. What's the deadline? 1 month? A year? 5? how local do you have to be to claim an area like this?
On the other hand if you play by the usual rules and just keep quiet and hope noone hears about it the community can miss out on a new area for years to decades.. and then you end up with a mess of retro claiming too... :shrug:
I think most on here know how much effort is required. But agree it's not always obvious to people just starting
Ok i was hoping we might move on beyond this, I didn't sleep a wink last night and i don't post that often as i always tend to fuck things up.
So apologies if i have hurt anyone's feelings or put noses out of joint.
Thank you everyone for your patience.
-
I thought Dr Inferno at Pow was quality but the landing is a pain in the arse. Optimus Prime is the better problem on that coast and deserves its place on the list. Never been to Clash but I imagine that's where the east coast gems are?
In Strathnairn I'd second Barry Span Commander getting on - just a brilliant, unlikely move. And I'd second Barry Manilow getting nowhere near the list :lol:
Goes without saying that Hell To The Liars should be there (btw, agree that it could come down a grade, not that it matters much once you're up there).
-
Optimus Prime Sit is on the list already. Lots to choose from a at Clash, not sure what the cream is.
-
Not having a go Scragrock. It's just interesting to explore one of the stranger aspects of development. Im pointing out there's no right way to go about it. You guys have approached it in your own unique style over east and the results speak for themselves. It's now one of the best areas in the country! If Glen Nevis had half your energy it would be transformed. Keep on keeping on :punk:
-
Lots to choose from a at Clash, not sure what the cream is.
Clash Arete definitely needs to remain on the list, but Ting is also brilliant. Get yourself there Thom!
-
Barry Span Commander felt pretty sketch and unpleasant when we were up, but then when I got it (after many, many tires) I guess I was chuffed. I probably just didn't enjoy it as it played to all my weaknesses and none of my strengths, and it was a bit damp and showery...
BTW - this is not me saying it shouldn't be included, just more a musing on how to objectively agree on "quality". Clearly most find it top notch! Edit just re-watched https://vimeo.com/241417907 and remembered, once I figured it out it was quite a unique move (in Scotland anyway) and my displeasure was probably mainly just egohurtTM.
P.S. I'd second Mestizo Sitter, and also second NOT including Mugsy - it's a classic testpiece, but given that 1 in 5 attempts seem to end up in a session ending flapper....
-
OK, your updated list. I've made quite a few changes but there are a few things that have been mentioned that i haven't included as there is no obvious consensus, or i disagreed. eg Nipple Attack vs Hook and Go at Loch Buie - i thought the former was not a definite line but.. the guide is a bit confusing on that one. Stuck with H & G for now as it is a good obvious line.
Oh and i've kept Zeus in, can't let Thom go getting 100% completed without sweating a bit..
Please continue to press your case if you think further changes required, but also advise what you'd swap!
I had the idea that a coffee table/guide book with one brilliant picture of each problem and a short description of the area (access, number of other routes etc) would be much better than a full new bouldering Scotland guide book which would be a major undertaking with the volume of new problems. Unfortunately i know nothing about photography or publishing so if someone else wants to steal this project you're very welcome! I'd certainly buy it!
Climb name Grade Crag name
SW SCOTLAND
Blacker than Black f7C Girvan Bloc
Wacke Races f7C+ *** Monreith
Broken Obelisk f7C *** Garheugh Port
Bowfinger f7A ** Garheugh Port New
Retroclaim f7A+ Rankin Boulder
The Witch f7B+ ** Sandyhills
Craig's Wall f7B ** Thirlstane
Stew's Wall f7A+ ** Cairnhead
GLASGOW
Pongo Arete f7A+ ** Dumbarton Rock
Malky f7B+ * Dumbarton Rock
Spanking the Monkey f7A Cambusbarron New
Silver Back f7C *** Dumbarton Rock
Slap Happy f7A ** Dumbarton Rock
Wizard Sit Start f7A ** Craigmore
Abracadabra f7A *** Craigmaddie
Solus Rex f7C+ ** Lennoxtown Boulders
Gordon Bombay f7C *** Lennoxtown Boulders
Far from the Maddening Crowd f7C ** Craigton
ARGYLE
Turbinal Nose f7C *** Glen Croe Boulders...
Precious f7C *** Glen Croe Boulders...
Ace of Spades f7A+ ** Glen Croe Boulders...
So Jackie O f7B ** Kennedy Boulder
Splurge f7A+ * Loch Sloy Boulders
Free Energy f7B+ *** Loch Sloy Boulders
60 Minute Mullet f7A+ *** Mini Magic Wood
Arnold Quartzenegger f7A Mini Magic Wood
The Sloping Ledge f7A Ardlui Boulders
The Throttler f7B *** Loch Lomond, West...
Out of the Blue f7C *** Loch Lomond, West...
Jenny's Bay f7C Carrick Castle
Broadsword f7C *** Glen Massan
The Croe Road f7B *** Dubh-lic Boulders
A Feast for Croes f7C *** Dubh-lic Boulders
CENTRAL HIGHLANDS
Inhibited Mania f7C *** Glen Lednock...
Reiver's Logic f7A+ * Glen Lednock...
Glass Shieling Project f7B+ Balnacoul Castle...
Rollercoaster f7C *** Balnacoul Castle...
Bro-Down f7C+ *** Weem Crags
40 Minute Man f7A+ ** Weem Crags
An Electric Feel f7B+ ** Dunkeld, Cave Crag
The Tombstone f7B+ *** Ben Ledi Boulders
Cortège Noir f7A *** Ben Ledi Boulders
The Zealot f7B ** Glen Ogle Boulders
Le Toit du Cul de Mouton f7A ** Red Craig (Glen...
LOCHABER
Pagan Uilleann f7A+ *** Nevis Bouldering
The News in Pidgin Gaelic for White Settlers f7C+ *** Nevis Bouldering
Catch 22 f7C ** Nevis Bouldering
Hamish f7A *** Nevis Bouldering
Them Bones f7B+ *** Ardgour Boulders
The Perfect Catch f7C+ *** Ardgour Boulders
Glen Pean Mystery Climb f7A Splitter Crag
ABERDEEN
Optimus Prime Sitter f7C+ *** Cammachmore Bay
Clash Arete f7A+ *** Clashfarquhar
Ting f7B+ Clashfarquhar New
INVERNESS
Strongbow f7A+ *** Creagan Soilleir
Gale Force f7A *** Creag Bhuidhe...
The Catch f7B ** Scatwell Boulder
The Settler f7C Duntelchaig New
The Dagger f7A *** Duntelchaig
The Big Lebowski f7A *** Ruthven Boulder
QED f7C Ruthven Boulder New
Woodstock f7B Findhorn Gorge New
Barry Span Commander f7A Barry Valley New
Reptile Dysfunction f7A+ *** Rooftown/Ruadha nan... New
The Scientist f7B *** Brin Rock
Susurrus f7C+ *** Brin Rock
Farr Side Facet f7C *** Farr Boulder
Ginger Rides Again f7B *** Cummingston
Amateur Acrobatics f7A+ *** Primrose Bay
Coastess f7C Primrose Bay
NORTH WEST HIGHLANDS
Escutcheon f7C Torridon Celtic...
The Annatomist f7C+ Annat Boulders
Malcolm's Arete f7B *** Torridon Celtic...
The Mission f7B *** Torridon Celtic...
Stokes Croft f7C+ Torridon Celtic...
The Essence f7B+ *** Torridon Celtic...
The Balgy Prow f7A *** The Balgy Boulder
Three Streaks (and you're out) f7A+ *** Annat Boulders
The Universal f7B *** Coire nan Arr...
End of Days f7B *** Kishorn Boulders
The Main Issue f7B *** Reiff in the Woods
Red Handed f7A *** Reiff in the Woods
Rubha Dubh Dubh f7C+ Reiff - Roinn a'...
Romancing the Stone f7A Reiff - Roinn a'... New
Facet f7A ** Ardmair Diamond
Ruffies f7B ** Rispond
Simple Jack f7C *** Rispond
Zeus f7A *** Sheigra Bouldering
Bound for the Waves SS f7A Sheigra Bouldering New
Bio Hazard f7C+ Sheigra Bouldering New
ISLANDS
Shroom Doom f7A *** The Mushroom, Arran
Vertigo f7B Coire Nan Ceum, Arran
Hook and go, sit-start f7A *** Loch Buie, Mull
Serious Music f7B *** Hallival Boulders, Rum
Normal People f7B *** Hallival Boulders, Rum
Snake Attack f7A *** Ghrunnda Boulders, Skye
Screapadal Prow f7C+ *** Screapadal Path…, Raasay
Just MTFU f7B ** Aird Mhighe Crag, Harris
Hard Lines f7A+ Clisham Pass, Lewis
The Cnipper f7A Uig Sea Cliffs…, Lewis New
Hell to the Liars f7B+ Bla Bheinn, Skye New
-
NE under represented. Golden Brown Sit should definitely be in IMO. And love or loath, a few Porty options and something at Boltsheugh. Could quiz Rankers see what he thinks.
Something like this would be cool https://www.v-publishing.co.uk/books/climbing/bleau-blocs/
Not sure it would sell though.
-
As mentioned already by SAChris - Hell to the Liars 7b on Bla Bheinn
https://www.instagram.com/tv/CEDBxnpD4h1/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
https://www.instagram.com/p/CQohVqUDF_r/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
Bonjoy, looks amazing. Have you added this to ukc?
-
OK, your updated list. I've made quite a few changes but there are a few things that have been mentioned that i haven't included as there is no obvious consensus, or i disagreed. eg Nipple Attack vs Hook and Go at Loch Buie - i thought the former was not a definite line but.. the guide is a bit confusing on that one. Stuck with H & G for now as it is a good obvious line.
Oh and i've kept Zeus in, can't let Thom go getting 100% completed without sweating a bit..
Please continue to press your case if you think further changes required, but also advise what you'd swap!
I had the idea that a coffee table/guide book with one brilliant picture of each problem and a short description of the area (access, number of other routes etc) would be much better than a full new bouldering Scotland guide book which would be a major undertaking with the volume of new problems. Unfortunately i know nothing about photography or publishing so if someone else wants to steal this project you're very welcome! I'd certainly buy it!
Climb name Grade Crag name
SW SCOTLAND
Blacker than Black f7C Girvan Bloc
Wacke Races f7C+ *** Monreith
Broken Obelisk f7C *** Garheugh Port
Bowfinger f7A ** Garheugh Port New
Retroclaim f7A+ Rankin Boulder
The Witch f7B+ ** Sandyhills
Craig's Wall f7B ** Thirlstane
Stew's Wall f7A+ ** Cairnhead
GLASGOW
Pongo Arete f7A+ ** Dumbarton Rock
Malky f7B+ * Dumbarton Rock
Spanking the Monkey f7A Cambusbarron New
Silver Back f7C *** Dumbarton Rock
Slap Happy f7A ** Dumbarton Rock
Wizard Sit Start f7A ** Craigmore
Abracadabra f7A *** Craigmaddie
Solus Rex f7C+ ** Lennoxtown Boulders
Gordon Bombay f7C *** Lennoxtown Boulders
Far from the Maddening Crowd f7C ** Craigton
ARGYLE
Turbinal Nose f7C *** Glen Croe Boulders...
Precious f7C *** Glen Croe Boulders...
Ace of Spades f7A+ ** Glen Croe Boulders...
So Jackie O f7B ** Kennedy Boulder
Splurge f7A+ * Loch Sloy Boulders
Free Energy f7B+ *** Loch Sloy Boulders
60 Minute Mullet f7A+ *** Mini Magic Wood
Arnold Quartzenegger f7A Mini Magic Wood
The Sloping Ledge f7A Ardlui Boulders
The Throttler f7B *** Loch Lomond, West...
Out of the Blue f7C *** Loch Lomond, West...
Jenny's Bay f7C Carrick Castle
Broadsword f7C *** Glen Massan
The Croe Road f7B *** Dubh-lic Boulders
A Feast for Croes f7C *** Dubh-lic Boulders
CENTRAL HIGHLANDS
Inhibited Mania f7C *** Glen Lednock...
Reiver's Logic f7A+ * Glen Lednock...
Glass Shieling Project f7B+ Balnacoul Castle...
Rollercoaster f7C *** Balnacoul Castle...
Bro-Down f7C+ *** Weem Crags
40 Minute Man f7A+ ** Weem Crags
An Electric Feel f7B+ ** Dunkeld, Cave Crag
The Tombstone f7B+ *** Ben Ledi Boulders
Cortège Noir f7A *** Ben Ledi Boulders
The Zealot f7B ** Glen Ogle Boulders
Le Toit du Cul de Mouton f7A ** Red Craig (Glen...
LOCHABER
Pagan Uilleann f7A+ *** Nevis Bouldering
The News in Pidgin Gaelic for White Settlers f7C+ *** Nevis Bouldering
Catch 22 f7C ** Nevis Bouldering
Hamish f7A *** Nevis Bouldering
Them Bones f7B+ *** Ardgour Boulders
The Perfect Catch f7C+ *** Ardgour Boulders
Glen Pean Mystery Climb f7A Splitter Crag
ABERDEEN
Optimus Prime Sitter f7C+ *** Cammachmore Bay
Clash Arete f7A+ *** Clashfarquhar
Ting f7B+ Clashfarquhar New
INVERNESS
Strongbow f7A+ *** Creagan Soilleir
Gale Force f7A *** Creag Bhuidhe...
The Catch f7B ** Scatwell Boulder
The Settler f7C Duntelchaig New
The Dagger f7A *** Duntelchaig
The Big Lebowski f7A *** Ruthven Boulder
QED f7C Ruthven Boulder New
Woodstock f7B Findhorn Gorge New
Barry Span Commander f7A Barry Valley New
Reptile Dysfunction f7A+ *** Rooftown/Ruadha nan... New
The Scientist f7B *** Brin Rock
Susurrus f7C+ *** Brin Rock
Farr Side Facet f7C *** Farr Boulder
Ginger Rides Again f7B *** Cummingston
Amateur Acrobatics f7A+ *** Primrose Bay
Coastess f7C Primrose Bay
NORTH WEST HIGHLANDS
Escutcheon f7C Torridon Celtic...
The Annatomist f7C+ Annat Boulders
Malcolm's Arete f7B *** Torridon Celtic...
The Mission f7B *** Torridon Celtic...
Stokes Croft f7C+ Torridon Celtic...
The Essence f7B+ *** Torridon Celtic...
The Balgy Prow f7A *** The Balgy Boulder
Three Streaks (and you're out) f7A+ *** Annat Boulders
The Universal f7B *** Coire nan Arr...
End of Days f7B *** Kishorn Boulders
The Main Issue f7B *** Reiff in the Woods
Red Handed f7A *** Reiff in the Woods
Rubha Dubh Dubh f7C+ Reiff - Roinn a'...
Romancing the Stone f7A Reiff - Roinn a'... New
Facet f7A ** Ardmair Diamond
Ruffies f7B ** Rispond
Simple Jack f7C *** Rispond
Zeus f7A *** Sheigra Bouldering
Bound for the Waves SS f7A Sheigra Bouldering New
Bio Hazard f7C+ Sheigra Bouldering New
ISLANDS
Shroom Doom f7A *** The Mushroom, Arran
Vertigo f7B Coire Nan Ceum, Arran
Hook and go, sit-start f7A *** Loch Buie, Mull
Serious Music f7B *** Hallival Boulders, Rum
Normal People f7B *** Hallival Boulders, Rum
Snake Attack f7A *** Ghrunnda Boulders, Skye
Screapadal Prow f7C+ *** Screapadal Path…, Raasay
Just MTFU f7B ** Aird Mhighe Crag, Harris
Hard Lines f7A+ Clisham Pass, Lewis
The Cnipper f7A Uig Sea Cliffs…, Lewis New
Hell to the Liars f7B+ Bla Bheinn, Skye New
Sounds like a great plan Stewart. There's seems to be a bit of momentum in Scottish Bouldering at present. I just can't help but feel that what is really needed is a simple and not pay walled (or very cheap) community app that allows people to record details (Inc topos). I mean, in this day an ages you can take a snap on a phone, draw a line on it and upload in seconds. Just need to figure out what platform to use.
-
Hell To The Liars: https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/bla_bheinn-684/hell_to_the_liars-626566
I thought Free Energy was a bit of a dud tbh, more like 7A if you heel hook . I'm not sure that block needs two problems on it and personally I thought Splurge was better (but I found it quite difficult so might have missed some beta).
Cortege Noir at Ben Ledi seemed a bit weird and unsatisfactory too. Tombstone alone probably does the trick for that venue.
I think Andy's right that the Morar Monster could fit in - it would give Lochaber a bit of a broader spread.
Oh, I thought Cairngorm Arete Crouch Start was very good as well. Imo it should be on the list. Thanks for compiling by the way, great fun!
-
Nothing else worthwhile in Glen Coe?
-
Hell To The Liars: https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/bla_bheinn-684/hell_to_the_liars-626566
I thought Free Energy was a bit of a dud tbh, more like 7A if you heel hook . I'm not sure that block needs two problems on it and personally I thought Splurge was better (but I found it quite difficult so might have missed some beta).
Cortege Noir at Ben Ledi seemed a bit weird and unsatisfactory too. Tombstone alone probably does the trick for that venue.
I think Andy's right that the Morar Monster could fit in - it would give Lochaber a bit of a broader spread.
Oh, I thought Cairngorm Arete Crouch Start was very good as well. Imo it should be on the list. Thanks for compiling by the way, great fun!
Cheers bud, i'll make those changes on the next edit
-
As mentioned already by SAChris - Hell to the Liars 7b on Bla Bheinn
https://www.instagram.com/tv/CEDBxnpD4h1/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
https://www.instagram.com/p/CQohVqUDF_r/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
Bonjoy, looks amazing. Have you added this to ukc?
Yes, and have now changed to 7B on there
-
Please continue to press your case if you think further changes required, but also advise what you'd swap!
I had the idea that a coffee table/guide book with one brilliant picture of each problem and a short description of the area (access, number of other routes etc) would be much better than a full new bouldering Scotland guide book which would be a major undertaking with the volume of new problems. Unfortunately i know nothing about photography or publishing so if someone else wants to steal this project you're very welcome! I'd certainly buy it!
This would be amazing! I'd certainly buy a copy.
-
Convince Guy to make it his next project??
https://scottishmountaineeringpress.com/product/great-sea-cliffs-of-scotland/
https://www.v-publishing.co.uk/books/climbing/the-great-mountain-crags-of-scotland/
-
I had the idea that a coffee table/guide book with one brilliant picture of each problem and a short description of the area (access, number of other routes etc) would be much better than a full new bouldering Scotland guide book which would be a major undertaking with the volume of new problems.
What an amazing idea. I'd love to support that however I can. I agree that this would be an amazing 'snapshot' of Scottish bouldering, and also offer something really unique. From my perspective the challenge is getting people psyched to make the trip, and everyone loves a stunning photo. Let do it...
-
P.S. Biohazard is definitely not 7c+, more like soft 7b+. I'll change this in my next update of the Sheigra guide.
-
Does anyone have a topo for Barry valley? Or Rooftown? I'm staying in strathnairn with family for a few days next week and would like to have a look at some of these. @scragrock perhaps?
-
Does anyone have a topo for Barry valley? Or Rooftown? I'm staying in strathnairn with family for a few days next week and would like to have a look at some of these. @scragrock perhaps?
P.M you :)
-
How many folks use 27 Crags? It does seem to cover all the features we're looking for. It's free too, so long as the crag managers don't make them "premium". I guess popular areas might go that way, but it would great to get the whole of Scotland on there.
-
27crags is used extensively in Scandinavia. For a while it was the only way new boulderproblem was communicated. Very easy: if the crag/boulder already has a topo photo just add a line on it with the interactive drawing tool, if not just take a cellphone photo, upload it, and draw the line.
However, the free model did not pull in nowhere enough money to cover the cost of hosting + developing and they moved to a subscription model. At least in Scandinavia useage of premium is enforced by marking every area with more than something like five problems or routes as "premium". Access to premium content cost €50 per year.
For me personally that has been a good thing as the sales of my guidebook went up by quite a bit after they started to mark most areas as Premium as it is not easy to compete against something that is free even if you have a better product.
I think thecrag is still free and has many of the features of 27crags (but I have not looked into this closer). I just find it hard to believe that any other revenue model than subscription can cover the costs of hosting and development.
-
Interesting. Cheers Jonas.
I saw St Bees was still on the free version, and has a load of problems listed. Seeing as there are "minimum standards" for premium content, what happens when you get too big and get told to "go pro", but then you're quality fall shot somehow?
€50/yr just seems a bit steep. How much of a cut do 27Crags take, and how much gos to the developers?
-
Interesting. Cheers Jonas.
I saw St Bees was still on the free version, and has a load of problems listed. Seeing as there are "minimum standards" for premium content, what happens when you get too big and get told to "go pro", but then you're quality fall shot somehow?
€50/yr just seems a bit steep. How much of a cut do 27Crags take, and how much gos to the developers?
I do not remember exactly how much the creators of premium content gets, but my impression at the time was that it never adds up to much unless you have tons of users accessing the content. That's also the impression I get from people I know who are editing premium content. (In Scandinavia it might make sense to put stuff on premium if you are a guidebook writer to stop the content on 27crags to be available for free...)
The crags I added in St Antonin are still not premium, but I have received many messages from 27crags staff to make take
it premium... ( example https://27crags.com/crags/couyrac/topos/sector-1-17571 )
-
For topos, see: https://scottishbloc.com/topos/
Work in progress...
-
There is also
https://ukbouldering.fandom.com/wiki/Ukbouldering_Wikia
which I think Slackline set up but never really gained momentum.
-
For topos, see: https://scottishbloc.com/topos/
Work in progress...
Not to be too negative about it - but for me it highlights the exact issue with not having something like, well, 27 crags... Having routes on a static PDF, that then needs modified, exported, uploaded, linked is just so time consuming.
The tech is there to make it a simple seamless prospect. Photo, draw line, add info, upload. Or, if there's already a photo - add new line, upload, add info...done.
I've just emailed FatMap to see if they've got any interest in branching out into boulder topos - it's a fair bit cheaper than 27 Crags, AND you would get all the benefits of the other info / systems they already offer in the package.
We clearly have the people who have a inclination and skills develop the areas, document and create topos. It's just the lack of platform that holds it back. I did mention to devs in Rockfax about it, but tbh I doubt they'll ever give away enough power to allow community generated and cheaply accessible topos, bit who knows. They're app is nicely laid out.
-
Bit damning. Owt is better than nowt?
-
I'd far rather a well-produced pdf topo that contains all the information in one place and doesn't rely on having phone signal (or even needing a phone at all, I tend to avoid my phone whilst climbing). New problems don't really get done so often that the guide needs updating every week... Also, pdf topos produced by passionate locals are free, no need for any commercialisation whatsoever.
-
I'd far rather a well-produced pdf topo that contains all the information in one place and doesn't rely on having phone signal
Ditto (although I’d look at the pdf on my phone).
-
Interesting topic, probably needs its own thread.
i have been struggling with this for over a decade and i am Not alone by the sounds of things.
When i first encountered these issues ScottishClimbs and Inverness Bouldering were still running and covered most of the new developments in my area. I suspect other areas of Scotland operated this way too.
Mostly this has been run by passionate individuals on an ad hoc free basis and always based around community made PDF topo's.
Then UKC was adapted as a kind of library of lines and problems later adding in the extra's to make a pretty good system of upgradable/updatable areas and venues.
These websites and blogs are not without their flaws and mostly it comes down to finance and participants input or lack of it.
Ideal scenario would be something like-
Bleau.info/Peakbouldering.info and a UKC rating and logbook library kind of thing with a companion Guidebook{for us oldies} and OCD moderators who constantly update without agenda.
All of this is to be free or paid by a UK based billionaire boulderer.
I used UKC for years as a best option as it was free and i could entirely control the content of the new stuff i was developing{kind off}
i have stepped back from this as UKC are now in partnership with Rockfax and are now charging people on their app potentially for work that i have done, i was hoping it would always be free to all {perhaps this was naive}
I am aware that there is old and new websites that kind of cover what we are after but in my opinion they are either a little clunky or not open to community involvement.
I decided just to write a guide{published through Stone Country in 2022 hopefully}.
Its a fine balance that i think as a community in Scotland we have not quite grasped yet, I am hopeful that the upcoming next generation can fulfil this need with a patient understanding nod to those who have been before.
-
I'd far rather a well-produced pdf topo that contains all the information in one place and doesn't rely on having phone signal
Ditto (although I’d look at the pdf on my phone).
Me too. Normally people will develop an area to a reasonable level of maturity (i.e. bag most of their projects :) ) before producing any topo / info.
-
Ideal scenario would be something like-
Bleau.info/Peakbouldering.info and a UKC rating and logbook library kind of thing with a companion Guidebook{for us oldies} and OCD moderators who constantly update without agenda.
I'd be careful what you wish for! Peakbouldering.info has gone down with little prospect of reappearing it would seem. Therefore all the information that users added to it in good faith, often only recorded there, is potentially lost permanently(as also happened with the similar yorkshiregrit site some year back). This includes details of things that even the folk who wrote it no longer remember.
-
I'd be careful what you wish for! Peakbouldering.info has gone down with little prospect of reappearing it would seem. Therefore all the information that users added to it in good faith, often only recorded there, is potentially lost permanently(as also happened with the similar yorkshiregrit site some year back). This includes details of things that even the folk who wrote it no longer remember.
Another benefit of nice pdfs. I've still got dog eared annotated copies of most of the Unknown Stones ones on the shelf next the Yorkshire grit guides! Can't print out 27crags lines. I'm with AndyE
-
Ideal scenario would be something like-
Bleau.info/Peakbouldering.info and a UKC rating and logbook library kind of thing with a companion Guidebook{for us oldies} and OCD moderators who constantly update without agenda.
I'd be careful what you wish for! Peakbouldering.info has gone down with little prospect of reappearing it would seem. Therefore all the information that users added to it in good faith, often only recorded there, is potentially lost permanently(as also happened with the similar yorkshiregrit site some year back). This includes details of things that even the folk who wrote it no longer remember.
Is none of that available from the wayback machine?
Can we get a thread split? Seems like a good conversation to be had.
BTW - I'm in no way trying to ram 27Crags through as "the default" I just pine for some kind of open community based thing where we own our own data, but have access to tools (topo making, databases) that makes life easier.
I'd happily go out and spend time documenting stuff for free.
P.S. You can print 27Crags etc. just like a PDF for your analogue tactile paper types....
-
For any site using user-created data, be it facebook, instagram or 8a.nu, the platform must allow users to download the data they have added to the platform in a usable format. This is covered by GDPR and is the law.
I have made an habit to download all the information I upload to sites like 27crags or ukclimbing from time to time to have a local back-up. I have been burned before...
I am currently trying to download all my old photos from flickr. They are not responding to my requests which makes me worry that they are about to go...
-
BTW - I'm in no way trying to ram 27Crags through as "the default" I just pine for some kind of open community based thing where we own our own data, but have access to tools (topo making, databases) that makes life easier.
I'd happily go out and spend time documenting stuff for free.
P.S. You can print 27Crags etc. just like a PDF for your analogue tactile paper types....
Could be worth it to check out thecrag.com as well?
-
Ideal scenario would be something like-
Bleau.info/Peakbouldering.info and a UKC rating and logbook library kind of thing with a companion Guidebook{for us oldies} and OCD moderators who constantly update without agenda.
I'd be careful what you wish for! Peakbouldering.info has gone down with little prospect of reappearing it would seem. Therefore all the information that users added to it in good faith, often only recorded there, is potentially lost permanently(as also happened with the similar yorkshiregrit site some year back). This includes details of things that even the folk who wrote it no longer remember.
Is none of that available from the wayback machine?
Nothing useful. Only the upper levels of the site are saved by archiving sites, so typically no problem information is saved. At least that's been the case for every problem I've tried to look up on the archived of peakbouldering.info.
-
P.S. You can print 27Crags etc. just like a PDF for your analogue tactile paper types....
More like elderly and poor of eyesight.
-
P.S. You can print 27Crags etc. just like a PDF for your analogue tactile paper types....
Not the printing that’s the issue for me, it’s the centralisation of data as others have said. These paid topo sites sometimes feel a bit like the Internet of Things: trying to solve a problem that doesn’t really exist by making something slightly more convenient, with the aim to make somebody some money. I guess I’m just a Luddite.
-
27crags can suck the biggest available bag of dicks.
The UK has a big problem at the moment because the Rockfax app is becoming the go-to guidebook for younger people and there is nothing to compete with it. With no page count considerations, the app is free to do definitive coverage and I can easily envisage a future where the only variety in guidebooks are a few paper books that come out every now and again, and a few online resources covering new developments/bits that Rockfax haven't got round to yet or can't be bothered with. It makes me really sad to think of that world. As I said to someone working on Northern Rock recently, "you never open up the Rockfax and get a surprise" - perhaps a bit of an exaggeration but not far off.
The UK needs an app that local developers can use to document their stuff, and which can also be used to give coverage to the major areas and crags. I wouldn't trust any commercial platform with this (which might disappear/paywall/completely change direction one day), it would have to be something under the BMC or the clubs.
Therein lies the problem. The BMC have abandoned guidebook making entirely, leaving the future of Cheshire sandstone etc in doubt. There is a Wired database, and there is even a Wired app (which is nothing when compared with the Rockfax offering), but despite lots of badgering development of it hasn't really gone anywhere. The clubs are generally full of people of a certain vintage - many of whom have slaved away for years on various book projects - and most of them just haven't got the enthusiasm for guidebooks-on-a-phone. So we can write our reports with our recommendations and someone will take that back to the committee of noteworthies who will sit in a meeting somewhere and think about it and ultimately not make the Decision That Needs To Be Made (that is, for them to set up a company/not-for-profit-type-thing and employ people who's job it will be to make decisions and Make It Happen).
-
I think that it is very easy to underestimate the amount of work and costs that goes in to the back-end of a database driven site for sharing info.
-
I reckon The Dragon's Eye is Always Watching on Ben Vane in Arrochar is definitely worth a shout. There's also a project (well, it's still a project as far as I know) on the side of Ben Narnain facing The Cobbler that is a future classic at something like 7C+. Can give more details if anyone is interested.
Did a big arete above Tornapress under Beinn Bhan earlier this year called Flight Across the Desert that's about 7B. Ticks most of the boxes, though it maybe eases-off a wee bit too much at the top.
-
I think that it is very easy to underestimate the amount of work and costs that goes in to the back-end of a database driven site for sharing info.
This has literally appeared in the last few days, created by an keen individual.
https://boulderingcapetown.co.za/
wonder a) how much cost and time has gone into it and b) how long it will last.
-
Hey TCE, John sent me details of Flight Across the Desert for a wee sandstone update I'm going to write for the Scottishbloc website. It looks superb!
How long does the walk in take? And will I need a few pads or will a single big one be OK? Really keen to give it a visit this autumn.
-
I reckon The Dragon's Eye is Always Watching on Ben Vane in Arrochar is definitely worth a shout. There's also a project (well, it's still a project as far as I know) on the side of Ben Narnain facing The Cobbler that is a future classic at something like 7C+. Can give more details if anyone is interested.
Does that differ from Goliath which gets a brief mention in the guide? I got the impression that had been climbed (by you) - or is there a further project up there? I've been meaning to go for a look for a long time.
Didn't know you'd climbed anything on the Dinosaur Egg. I think I stumbled across that block independently but it seemed exceedingly boggy. Does Dragon's Eye have a dry landing & did you take a pad up there?
-
@GazM: roughly 45 mins. Park at the bridge and take the track going north. When you get to the wee wooden footbridge turn left. You can see the boulder from there. Walk straight up the side of the stream. Mats: feels a bit odd making recommendations concerning other people's health and safety -- I'm just some guy on the internet. FWIW, I was happy with one mat. When you're doing the crux your feet are at head height. There are some flat rocks behind you, some of which have lips to them. When I was taking falls off the crux I didn't at first feel sure exactly where I would land, which was a bit disconcerting, but after falling off a few times I got a feel for it. It also helped to go for the right hold, ahem...
-
Grand, thanks Tom. That's really useful. From memory that's not dissimilar from the time it takes to get to the boulders out the back of Coire nan Arr, so seems fine. Especially for such a great looking problem!
-
@Thomnomnom: I did Goliath in 2010, this project is further along to the west. It's a flat 40 degree overhang. Indoor style climbing. 1.5 hour walk in, so f*** the mat off and take a chunky spotter instead, if you have access to such conveniences. It's about 200 metres above the path, just to the left of a scree-run that comes down from the left of Yawning Crag. Aforementioned spotter would be useful for pushing you on to the crux, which is juuuuust too high to pull on to from the ground.
I did The Dragon's Eye is Always Watching in the summer of 2014, and that boggy landing was just the right side of boggy, i.e. a bit springy but not wet. You do start sitting almost in the pool under the boulder, though: tarp, or similar, is useful. I'm always looking for excuses to leave the mat at home, and though the problem's quite high I didn't need much of an excuse in this case. This might be a slightly odd thing to say given its location, but I reckon to get full value on that problem you'd want to take the ride with no mat from the second last move at least once, and be about 5' 10' -ish. I'm 6' 1", and the top was a reach, but pretty manageable.
This completely contradicts what I just said in my reply to GazM, but hey -- you've got to live a little sometimes. :devangel:
-
@GazM: the boulders at the back of Coire nan Arr are very nice. Been in there a few times with the kids messing about. Drew a topo for John Watson recently, but I have no idea who's done what in there.
-
Great info, thanks Tom. Looks like I'm in for full value on The Dragon's Eye as I'm 5'10ish exactly. Will try to make the effort to get up to all of this schist stuff, sounds totally worth it!
-
I think Andy's right that the Morar Monster could fit in - it would give Lochaber a bit of a broader spread.
I was thinking about this, maybe it should also include the Sword, but neither Thom nor I have done it because neither of us could be arsed with the brackeny scree to check it out...
-
This is such a good list, can't help but get involved!
Interesting that Malky made it, great move but personally would think Mestizo SS, Consolidated, The Shield or even Nice and Sleazy (part malky whoops) would all nip in before.
I actually stick a vote back on Negative Progression for Rooftown, thought it was well good. Has Reptile had a repeat yet?
-
Interesting Ted, i thought you weren't that enamoured with Neg Prog.
As for Reptile...that question opens up another can of worms, If a problem has only seen 1 or 2 repeats does it deserve 3 stars or a place on the list?
If you believe that problems need many repeats to get a rounded appraisal on its grade and quality then you automatically remove many of the current problems on the list. Screapadal Prow on Raasay is a perfect example of this, i think it has seen maybe 1 repeat but Dave swears it is one of the best boulders of its type anywhere in the UK.{ or do we just trust Dave cause its Dave? }
Not sure what the best approach on this is but i have certainly Not put any of mine forward as they have seen few or No repeats and i fear my in built bias for certain styles or lines would end badly.
Be interested to see folks thoughts on this :-\
-
Interesting Ted, i thought you weren't that enamoured with Neg Prog.
As for Reptile...that question opens up another can of worms, If a problem has only seen 1 or 2 repeats does it deserve 3 stars or a place on the list?
If you believe that problems need many repeats to get a rounded appraisal on its grade and quality then you automatically remove many of the current problems on the list. Screapadal Prow on Raasay is a perfect example of this, i think it has seen maybe 1 repeat but Dave swears it is one of the best boulders of its type anywhere in the UK.{ or do we just trust Dave cause its Dave? }
Not sure what the best approach on this is but i have certainly Not put any of mine forward as they have seen few or No repeats and i fear my in built bias for certain styles or lines would end badly.
Be interested to see folks thoughts on this :-\
There is a massive bias towards ease and convenience in climbing, and that approach would massively favour roadside soft-touches. Giving credit to the rarely or unrepeated helps to counter this bias a little.
From my experience doing new things, it's not the best things that get the most repeats it's those that fit the lowest common denominators.
-
As for Reptile...that question opens up another can of worms, If a problem has only seen 1 or 2 repeats does it deserve 3 stars or a place on the list?
...
Be interested to see folks thoughts on this :-\
If you took this approach with Scotland, all you’d end up with is a list of well travelled areas (Dumby, Glen Nevis, Torridon, etc.) Personally I’d want the list to include all sorts of amazing problems in the Highlands and Islands that I might not have heard of to inspire future holidays.
I think you can be objective about the quality of boulder problems, even if this is more difficult as an FAist: is it non eliminate, is the line good, is the rock good, are the holds nice etc.
-
Given the low numbers of boulderers in some areas and the remoteness of some problems I don't think consensus will always be possible.
edit - what they said ^
-
Absolutely, problems can go on the list if they've not had any repeats. I've got a couple of my own unrepeated problems on there. The Witch at Sandyhills which is genuinely ace.
The low start version is first problem here
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nqgRPcOeEtg&t=5s
And Stew's Wall (should have got a better name for this!) which i swithered on. It is great, but part of my rationale was creating a list to include venues all across the country and this is the only bouldering for miles. I might swap this one.
45 secs in this video which doesn't do it justice.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kXUGeSKP_pQ
There is also Carlisle Slapper's Blacker than Black which is unrepeated i believe, but the only thing on that South Ayrshire coast. I've stood under it when it was wet and it certainly looks great!
If you've some suggestions of unrepeated FAs then go ahead, but of course suggest what you'd replace and pics and vids are helpful. This thread is as valuable as the actual list hopefully as even if not on there it's suggested a lot of problems and locations i would like to try.
-
OK but you have been warned....i have been told off in the past for my choices and widely inaccurate grading :shrug:
Barry Valley
Hissing Sid 7a ish https://vimeo.com/541077870
Butch and Sundance 7a ish https://vimeo.com/212936526
Rooftown
Slot machine extention 7a ish https://vimeo.com/493864822
BFGeezus probably a 7 https://vimeo.com/330292169 {ignore the first 7 minutes of falling off}
Flight of the Phoenix might be a 7 just cause of the grovelling mantle and hand jam https://vimeo.com/296989437
There are certainly others that deserve 3 stars and a best in Scotland mention in and around Strathnairn its just a shame they are in a lower grade category.
-
This is such a good list, can't help but get involved!
Interesting that Malky made it, great move but personally would think Mestizo SS, Consolidated, The Shield or even Nice and Sleazy (part malky whoops) would all nip in before.
I actually stick a vote back on Negative Progression for Rooftown, thought it was well good. Has Reptile had a repeat yet?
You should get involved as you've contributed a fair few of these problems i believe.
I thought Negative Progression looked great, the jury is still out on Rooftown then!
Malky is one of my favourite problems anywhere, great moves, good height, very droppable last couple of moves. Mestizo arete, it's good but it's just a couple of moves into the awkward 6A stand, first move is extremely morpho.
Nice and Sleazy is great but it is essentially a link up. The Shield and consolidated....really??
-
Your Roadside Boulder looks like a scaled up version of a wee prob I cleaned up and climbed on lunchtime "runs" in Kingshill Wood near Kingswells. It's not classic and not 7 though!
-
OK but you have been warned....i have been told off in the past for my choices and widely inaccurate grading :shrug:
Barry Valley
Hissing Sid 7a ish
Butch and Sundance 7a ish
Rooftown
Slot machine extention 7a ish
BFGeezus probably a 7
Flight of the Phoenix might be a 7 just cause of the grovelling mantle and hand jam there are certainly others that deserve 3 stars and a best in Scotland mention in and around Strathnairn its just a shame they are in a lower grade category.
Hissing sid certainly looks excellent.
Which would you propose are better or are as good as the current Barry Valley and Rooftown incumbents on the list though? Barry Span and Reptile Dysfunction. Ted has proposed Negative Prog back on.. obviously there is never going to be consensus and you could easily do a top 200 problems.
I'll let someone else do the top 100 6th grade problems, i've spent enough time on this. Or maybe just start a new thread and people can contribute for their localities.
-
I'll let someone else do the top 100 6th grade problems, i've spent enough time on this. Or maybe just start a new thread and people can contribute for their localities.
Too late, I already started one... https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,31540.0.html
-
I would put them all back on then start eliminating when you get consensus over time....Maybe :shrug:
As far as actually visiting {as i know you might be pushed for time Stew} Barry Span is a must do and is probably the closest bloc to the road in Strathnairn.
With this logic i would forego Rooftown {unless you have a guide ;) } and stick to the easier to get to venues. you really cant go wrong at Ruthven + the temps are just getting good :2thumbsup:
-
I will def give Barry S a go, is it the same side of the road as split boulder? (right if you're driving North?). My plan other than that was to try and get to Ruthven Boulder and maybe the Farr boulder. Will give you a shout when i'm allowed out!
-
Yeah Barry is Northside of the road Big split is Southside but its so close you can do both easily in a quick circuit.
Good stuff :2thumbsup:
-
This is such a good list, can't help but get involved!
Interesting that Malky made it, great move but personally would think Mestizo SS, Consolidated, The Shield or even Nice and Sleazy (part malky whoops) would all nip in before.
I actually stick a vote back on Negative Progression for Rooftown, thought it was well good. Has Reptile had a repeat yet?
You should get involved as you've contributed a fair few of these problems i believe.
I thought Negative Progression looked great, the jury is still out on Rooftown then!
Malky is one of my favourite problems anywhere, great moves, good height, very droppable last couple of moves. Mestizo arete, it's good but it's just a couple of moves into the awkward 6A stand, first move is extremely morpho.
Nice and Sleazy is great but it is essentially a link up. The Shield and consolidated....really??
Fair play, sold on Malky then, it is indeed a great problem ;D
-
Interesting Ted, i thought you weren't that enamoured with Neg Prog.
As for Reptile...that question opens up another can of worms, If a problem has only seen 1 or 2 repeats does it deserve 3 stars or a place on the list?
If you believe that problems need many repeats to get a rounded appraisal on its grade and quality then you automatically remove many of the current problems on the list. Screapadal Prow on Raasay is a perfect example of this, i think it has seen maybe 1 repeat but Dave swears it is one of the best boulders of its type anywhere in the UK.{ or do we just trust Dave cause its Dave? }
Not sure what the best approach on this is but i have certainly Not put any of mine forward as they have seen few or No repeats and i fear my in built bias for certain styles or lines would end badly.
Be interested to see folks thoughts on this :-\
Aha nah thought it was great, felt like the natural line of the block for me. Probs gave that impression cos it felt impossible for a few hours.
I forgot about Butch and Sundance, was the best prob in Barry Valley imo
-
yup i struggled with Neg Prog Too but your right it is a proud line.
Sid is better than Butch imo
-
A few good problems at the newish Drumore as well - Flow State (7A) and Blood Eagle (7Bishhhh). Expect Flow State will become a classic.
-
Malky is one of my favourite problems anywhere, great moves, good height, very droppable last couple of moves. Mestizo arete, it's good but it's just a couple of moves into the awkward 6A stand, first move is extremely morpho.
That's funny, I always found Malky equally morpho to Mestizo (I'm average height). And Malky is hardly a king line, isn't it basically a way of making Mugsy harder?
-
A few good problems at the newish Drumore as well - Flow State (7A) and Blood Eagle (7Bishhhh). Expect Flow State will become a classic.
Keen to check it out, drive wise it looks about the same to get to as Clova from Aberdeenshire.
Is there much ungraded / easy stuff? Doesn't have to be high, but be good for the kids to have something to try / scramble about on.
-
I think there's plenty of scope for pottering about on some of the boulders below the main jumble (maybe Bracken Boulder or Warm Up Boulder, looking at UKC) and there are some good, albeit tall, problems in the lows 6s (Neanderfall especially but I wouldn't recommend if for kids!). It's not the easiest terrain for romping about though, because of the rocky/heather hillside and the odd pit - probably awkward for very wee kids but I'm no expert!
Flow State is very good though and could probably replace one of the Weem probs on the list.
-
Cheers, they are 9 and 12, but neither are ready for anything in the 6es.
-
Flow State is very good though and could probably replace one of the Weem probs on the list.
Done!
-
Malky is one of my favourite problems anywhere, great moves, good height, very droppable last couple of moves. Mestizo arete, it's good but it's just a couple of moves into the awkward 6A stand, first move is extremely morpho.
That's funny, I always found Malky equally morpho to Mestizo (I'm average height). And Malky is hardly a king line, isn't it basically a way of making Mugsy harder?
Well possibly but I'm going to pull rank for the first time and say.. its my list, Malky is in!
-
A quick few thoughts from my week in strathnairn. I was camping with family so limited to quick hits.
First night I had one hour so decided to go for barry span commander. Arrived just as it was getting dark and was very glad to unexpectedly meet Scragrock. Did it twice (very ungracefully the 1st time) to confirm it is indeed worthy of its inclusion.
Last night I went up to Ruthven after kids were bedded. I'd been once before 8 years ago (climbed slippery slope as everything else was wet) so knew there was a path up but missed it in the pitch black and had an unpleasant stomp up through the grass and bogs. Decided to warm up trying the moves on the dude and promptly flashed it and had a sketchy scary windy top out in the dark with only light from my dim headtorch as I'd left the lantern off to preserve battery :badidea:
After that did Dude left hand, Big lebowski, cheeky girls, razors edge, Barry manilow and finally called it a night when the skin started failing on B Manilower and the lantern started to flicker.
Brilliant session, with atmospheric deer rutting noises and great problems.
Dude is definitely top 100 6th grade. Cheeky girls was entirely forgetful.
Razors edge is absolutely brilliant, much better than Big Leb. Not quite sure why the latter enjoys classic status. Barry ManilowER would also be worthy of top 100 status even though slightly eliminate, the crimp is really sharp though!
Hopefully get one more session somewhere tomorrow before heading home.
-
Well done on getting out Stew and im glad you enjoyed Ruthven.
i do agree that Lebowski is overrated and imo over graded. I still Love Cheeky Girls as its so adaptable if your in a big group and want everyone to have fun on the same problem{ like Egg arete at Cratcliff}
Couldn't agree more re Razor's, it should get a much better rep than it does. I don't even like Razors but that's cause im crap at crimps. Still think its 3***s.
I would agree with Manalower, much like Achilies there is an element of Eliminate about it despite the excellent moves and for this reason Not 3***s
Fingers crossed for tomorrow, i fear a lot of areas will be damp unfortunately
-
HaHa im less sold on Razor's edge
Yeah so it looks like this so far-
Ruthven
• Cheeky girls
• Builders butt
• Barry
• The Dude
• Lebowski
• Bitch slap
• QED
• Rock n Roll
Couldn't agree more re Razor's, it should get a much better rep than it does. I don't even like Razors but that's cause im crap at crimps. Still think its 3***s.
:-\ :???: ;D
(just teasin')
-
HaHa im less sold on Razor's edge
Yeah so it looks like this so far-
Ruthven
• Cheeky girls
• Builders butt
• Barry
• The Dude
• Lebowski
• Bitch slap
• QED
• Rock n Roll
Couldn't agree more re Razor's, it should get a much better rep than it does. I don't even like Razors but that's cause im crap at crimps. Still think its 3***s.
:-\ :???: ;D
(just teasin')
Holy Shit :o Someone who actually pays attention....Well pointed out Mat and apologies. I should have fought harder for Razors despite the fact i don't actually like it.
Good Accountability Mat....and kudos for sniffing out the shit.....i am scorned :-[
-
I agree with Cheeky Girls being meh. It may be all things to all people, but doesn't make it a good problem.
Plus it's often damp green and mungy in that corner of the boulder.
-
My logbook tells me I've done Razor's Edge, yet I don't have any strong memory of it, whereas I do remember really enjoying Big Lebowski...
Just for the sake of a different point of view!
-
Yeah I really liked Big Lebowski. Even though it's a bit traversy the rail is just a beautiful feature made for climbing.
Thought that Gaz's If Not Now could be another contender for the list, always thought it looked amazing and shouldn't get forgotten because it's remote:
https://vimeo.com/306401923
-
It's all good fun Scragrock :yes: The main thing that's coming out from these 3 threads is the level of quality and diversity of problems scattered all over Scotland, and the level of psyche for them (including from non-Scots)!
-
I saw that vid just the other day Thom. Yeah it looks well good.
Got to Duntelchaig today and tried Benjys Cotton block problems. Can confirm the massive 6B (+!) lip is total class with a sketchy top out. Tried the 7B which i originally put on the list and failed (tired, skin, kids, weakness :P ) but it does feel well good also. Could easily be on there. Had a brilliant scramble with the boys in and around the caves under the crags too.
Also anyone bitchin' about closed projects around here should just walk another ten meters and find their own project. SO Much unclimbed rock.
-
Fine effort at a list, but there clearly remains scope for further honing when, for example, the one-and-not-even-any-good-move-wonder of Reiver's Logic appears for Lednock while the puzzling, aesthetic delight of Afraid of the Wave remains on the bench.
Pushme Poolewe is too good to be absent. Spanking the Monkey is excellent but belongs to a list of 6th grade problems - we've all climbed harder 5A slabs in Font - but Monkey Spanking is good enough, and just about hard enough, to replace it. Meanwhile Slap Happy does not belong on any list at all, but should be stored inside, shame-facedly, next to ones first botched attempt at a campus board.
I don't expect anyone to agree with me though!
-
Agree with Reiver’s Logic/Afraid of the Wave
-
Keep It Unreal is a much better problem than Reiver's Logic. One of the best at Lednock.
-
It's maybe worth mentioning that Broadsword at Glen Massan is on the list but I don't think it is really the same as when Dave MacLeod first did it. I went to try it this summer and it looked to me like a lot of it had broken. Maybe I was trying to climb the wrong line but Rapier breaks here:
https://vimeo.com/66430545
and Rapier and Broadsword share holds. I reckoned it was still possible to get up what I thought was Broadsword but maybe it’s not as good as it was in the past. Can't see anywhere that anyone's done it after Dave Mac to tell but maybe someone on here knows more.
-
Good knowledge Jack. I'll remove Broadsword then, looks like an opening for 'If not know when' or 'Pushme Poolewe' as i don't see anything else at Glen Massan to replace it.
Will also swap reviers logic but there's a chance i might head to glen lednock on sat so i'll have a look at the two other contenders!
-
Given that Pushme-Poolewe has had quite a few repeats and there seems seems be a general concensus on its quality it might be a better addition.
However, if If Not Now does get chosen it will need putting on UKC. Or maybe not. It could be like the inclusion of The Scoop in Hard Rock to make it really hard to complete the list. A complete unknown that no-one can ever find.
-
A complete unknown that no-one can ever find.
Sounds like the general state of play about 90% of Scottish bouldering (and information) when I was exiled up there!!
-
If too many people know where stuff is they'll keep it too clean and I'll have to give up my wire-brushing habit. Can't have that.
-
I've just come across this thread again and was thinking of questing out somewhere for a few days on my own. Where can I get a topo for rooftown? A pm or a pointer would be appreciated.
-
Not sure if there's much online. Stone Country guides will have the Strathnairn bit covered (not go it).
-
This needs a book like Dave Parry's Grit Blocs. Some amazing aesthetic lines in beautiful locations.
-
:agree: , with the same breadth of scope.
-
The Strathnairn guide has been pushed back, looking at sometime late in 2023, it will have full details/maps/topo's of Rooftown and other new areas :). In the meantime please make do with UKC online guides and my Vimeo.
https://vimeo.com/user17129921 (https://vimeo.com/user17129921)
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/rooftownruadha_nan_eallachan-25517/#overview (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/rooftownruadha_nan_eallachan-25517/#overview)
-
Suggestions:
Replace the Glen Pean Mystery Climb with something from here: https://youtu.be/7NvIMczyZyY. Maybe Line Snatcher 7A (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/glen_pean-30000/line_snatcher-661888).
Stick Vanguard (https://youtu.be/seXTKpkuyYY?t=111) on the list. It's better than Le Toit du Cul de Mouton (I like Lady Sam better than Le Toit for the roadside stuff too).
The Shield SS at St Bride's Wall is another contender for the Central Highlands, arguably better than the Zealot which I found underwhelming. Probably debatable.
Reiterating that If Not Now (https://vimeo.com/306401923) should be on the list. It's on UKC too now because I've actually done it. Possibly bumps the Dagger or Reptile Dysfunction?
Seven A,B,C might also sneak in ahead of either of those if you can tolerate the glue?
-
(https://youtu.be/seXTKpkuyYY?t=111) on the list. It's better than Le Toit du Cul de Mouton (I like Lady Sam better than Le Toit for the roadside stuff too).
Had a look across at these on the way up to Tolmont / Tom Buidhe with the family, looks like a good cluster. Did you take the detour? Justification for an E-bike?
-
Suggestions:
Replace the Glen Pean Mystery Climb with something from here: https://youtu.be/7NvIMczyZyY. Maybe Line Snatcher 7A (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/glen_pean-30000/line_snatcher-661888).
Stick Vanguard (https://youtu.be/seXTKpkuyYY?t=111) on the list. It's better than Le Toit du Cul de Mouton (I like Lady Sam better than Le Toit for the roadside stuff too).
The Shield SS at St Bride's Wall is another contender for the Central Highlands, arguably better than the Zealot which I found underwhelming. Probably debatable.
Reiterating that If Not Now (https://vimeo.com/306401923) should be on the list. It's on UKC too now because I've actually done it. Possibly bumps the Dagger or Reptile Dysfunction?
Seven A,B,C might also sneak in ahead of either of those if you can tolerate the glue?
Yup, defo take those out and also Span Commander.
-
Had a look across at these on the way up to Tolmont / Tom Buidhe with the family, looks like a good cluster. Did you take the detour? Justification for an E-bike?
Yeah it's good up there! E-bike would be great if the forestry roads are ever clear, was horrendous with downed trees when I went up though!
Yup, defo take those out and also Span Commander.
Scragrock, I don't know if you're being sarcastic - BSP is one of the best in Strathnairn!
-
Yeah it's good up there! E-bike would be great if the forestry roads are ever clear, was horrendous with downed trees when I went up though!
We walked that way end of August and it was fine, in fact we wished we'd taken the kids bikes up as far as the bridge on the diverted route.
-
Had a look across at these on the way up to Tolmont / Tom Buidhe with the family, looks like a good cluster. Did you take the detour? Justification for an E-bike?
Yeah it's good up there! E-bike would be great if the forestry roads are ever clear, was horrendous with downed trees when I went up though!
Yup, defo take those out and also Span Commander.
Scragrock, I don't know if you're being sarcastic - BSP is one of the best in Strathnairn!
Yeah Stu is a Cunt{take it down ;D}
Sid will NOT dry unless you clean the gutter......
Give me a shout if you need a hand drying the south east east face
-
On holiday at the moment but will do some updates when I get back. Currently dodging showers to nip up Pagan Uillean which is worthy of the list, although I thought pagan direct was even better. Shame its eliminate!
-
On holiday at the moment but will do some updates when I get back. Currently dodging showers to nip up Pagan Uillean which is worthy of the list, although I thought pagan direct was even better. Shame its eliminate!
Urrrg...Fort Bill aint the best place to be at the moment Stew, Sunday might be an ok day :-\
Have you ventured over to Arisaig Cave before?, its permadry ;D
-
Yeah Ive found it tricky finding dry stuff in glen nevis in this weather.. maybe the picnic block? I hear the left arete is good ;)
It reminds me, Sine Wave up at the pine Alps is brill in the 7s, but so rarely done it's probably under moss by now.. and getting down off the boulder alone is pretty sketchy, especially when damp!
The coastal bouldering spots on Mull would be good bets in this weather. They dry really fast. As does the Brandy Stone in Oban.
-
Urrrg...Fort Bill aint the best place to be at the moment Stew, Sunday might be an ok day :-\
Have you ventured over to Arisaig Cave before?, its permadry ;D
Family holiday. Just sneaking in a few quick sessions while the kids are having pizza and film! Managed an hour on heather hat a few days ago and a quick session on cameron stone today. That's a decent result for family holiday!
-
Urrrg...Fort Bill aint the best place to be at the moment Stew, Sunday might be an ok day :-\
Have you ventured over to Arisaig Cave before?, its permadry ;D
Family holiday. Just sneaking in a few quick sessions while the kids are having pizza and film! Managed an hour on heather hat a few days ago and a quick session on cameron stone today. That's a decent result for family holiday!
Yeah i thought that, good effort despite the damph :P
As for Top 100 updates, i would scrap all mine and Stu's lines and let the deserving moss and lichens reclaim what is rightfully theirs.
Safe journey home and give me a shout if you want to try some new shite Strathnairn stone.
-
Family holiday. Just sneaking in a few quick sessions while the kids are having pizza and film! Managed an hour on heather hat a few days ago and a quick session on cameron stone today. That's a decent result for family holiday!
My FW holiday this time last year I struck out totally, didn't touch rock. Boards at 3WM got a hammering. Rafting is fun on a minging day though.