UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: Fiend on November 01, 2023, 11:45:06 am
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Not sure why this occurred to me the other day, but there we go. Oh actually it was fatneck rightly spooging about the Ruthven Stone in Strathnairn.
So.... best individual boulder / block in the UK?? NOT "best boulder problem" NOR "best bit of wall / crag for bouldering", but a proud, lone, distinct, block. You can choose the criteria (amount of problems? difficulty? aesthetics? rock quality? balance of grades? location? landing?) but please show your reasoning / calculations...
Some thoughts could include: The Pebble @ Stanage, The Trackside Boulder @ Curbar, The Bowderstone @ Borrowdale, Ruthven Stone @ Strathnairn, The Ship Boulder @ Torridon, one of the blocks @ Dumbarton, The Mallory Boulder @ Snowdonia, The Virgin @ Almscliffe, or many many more....
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Grand Hotel Boulder at stanage gotta be up there surely?
One of the best looking boulders in the world; Careless Torque 8A
Plus Not To Be Taken Away; classic 6B+ or whatever it gets.
Not loads else but what else do you need!?
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Barry at Stoupe Brow is the most impressive freestanding boulder I’ve seen in the UK. Not sure if it has the number of classic climbs on it to be a contender though.
The Calf, The Bowderstone and the Cowperstone all up there IMO.
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Ruthven stone has great probs, and nice aspect, but rock is a little bit coarse. Virgin has to be a desert island boulder, everything from piss easy to utterly nails. Ship - nicest rock, great aspect, but just a bit too small. Boggin' landings too.
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Ooo, good thread idea. Better than stirring the pot of two members who obviously aren't keen on each other.
Three Pocket Slab Boulder @ The Roaches is a beaut. Classics abound.
There's probably some SW granite monolith that fits the bill, but I don't know the area.
Maybe The Calf @ Ilkley? I've only been once for a brief fiddle, but the big steep face looked amazing for highball frighteners. Probably some similar stuff at Caley but I've never been.
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Probably some similar stuff at Caley but I've never been.
Sorry? You can get arrested for that confession.
Great Flake boulder is probably best of the bunch there, still take the Virgin ;)
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Obviously the correct answer is the first of the Langdale Boulders as it contains the best rock in the universe.
I also have a soft spot for the Eaglestone despite the often wet landings and the fact it's mostly too hard for me.
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If The Virgin was on a desert island that would certainly be an improvement.
Ruthven boulder is worth a trip if you’re in the area, but wouldn't stand out if it was in Font.
Obviously the best boulder has to be gritstone. Yorkshire folk might say the Cocoa Team Special block is up there, but the pockets are sharp and the slopers scrittly. The Calf was a good boulder in the 1740s but since then has lost points for chipping, graffiti and general neddery. Caley boulders all very nice if you like climbing green gunge next to a busy road.
So it has to be The Grand Hotel. Quality, not quantity.
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Tintagel superbloc comes to mind.
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Tintagel superbloc comes to mind.
Was just about to post the same, good location, landings and spread of grades with quality climbing.
Maybe lacks definitive lines though which is where I think something like the Grand Hotel beats it out.
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In stark contrast to Tom, I'm going to go for quantity over quality. Mainly using the criterion of 'which boulder would I most like to be able to walk to from my house' I'm going with the Bowderstone. Skin friendly rock, great for training, and, mainly thanks to Jack Palmieri's attempts to link every problem together, there are now probably a couple of hundred problems to work through, from the most contrived of link ups on the front face to the genuinely class independent straight ups on the back.
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Think Ruthven is worth a shout {disagree with Tom, i do think it would stand up in Font} but it gets too much traffic.
Backstage boulder in the far north west gets my vote. Great spread of problems{with hard projects yet to go} immaculate rock, good landings, stunning setting and views.....And NO ONE there. Perfect ;D
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Surely this is a no brainer...... A Northern Soul boulder, Hepburn.
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Tetris boulder, 4th cloud.
bunch of amazing quality problems on the best quality bit of grit
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Great thread idea.
Poetry in Motion block got to be worth a mention. Everything on there is good. All high enough for spice but by no means deathly. Verge of Tranquility doesn't get done much but is like a harder version of Psycho and not as obvious.
I keep getting stuck on the The Prune at Yeadon. It's obviously not the best, because the rock quality just doesn't cut it, but most problems on the are very good and Pruneaux and MmHF are both nationally significant in terms of quality.
I'd like to see more strength in depth than the Grand Hotel has.
Great Flake? Not for me. Andy's Problem isn't good, very few people do Nothings Safe. Bob's Bastard is meh. At Caley I'd propose Blockbuster, which has the eponymous Fawcett classic plus Zoo York and Ju Ju. Is Guacamole any good? I've never tried. Quite cool to have a big boulder with 4 individual independent lines and nothing else.
The Eavestone should be on the list somewhere.
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I thought this was about
NOT "best bit of wall / crag for bouldering", but a proud, lone, distinct, block.
Therefore Blockbuster is invalid isn't it? it's more of a buttress. Memory could be shoogly. Likewise ANS at Hepburn.
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This
Surely this is a no brainer...... A Northern Soul boulder, Hepburn.
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I wonder if they were all in the same boulderfield, side by side, would the winner be more obvious?
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Or how about:
Wonderwall boulder, Crafnant.
Every problem is brilliant (ok maybe not My Own Private Idaho), the rock and view also.
Or
Caseg Boulder.
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I wonder if they were all in the same boulderfield, side by side, would the winner be more obvious?
If they were all in the same picturesque location, the Shoreditch Park Boulder would surely take the crown.
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Some good selections, and good extrapolation from Grimer. Also...
Wonderwall boulder, Crafnant.
...I really shouldn't have forgotten that as it's stuck in my mind many times reading the book (and once visiting). Top pick.
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Or how about:
Wonderwall boulder, Crafnant.
Every problem is brilliant (ok maybe not My Own Private Idaho), the rock and view also.
Or
Caseg Boulder.
Ooh yeah, top choices. I wish I was better at climbing to get more value out of them :'(
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I thought this was about NOT "best bit of wall / crag for bouldering", but a proud, lone, distinct, block.
Therefore Blockbuster is invalid isn't it? it's more of a buttress. Memory could be shoogly. Likewise ANS at Hepburn.
Yeah I've always thought of that section as more of a buttress than a boulder.
Or how about:
Wonderwall boulder, Crafnant.
Every problem is brilliant (ok maybe not My Own Private Idaho), the rock and view also.
Goodness me no! Wonderwall is horrendously sharp, utterly grim. And the landings are dreadful. Yes it's a good boulder, but miles from being the best.
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Another vote for Langdale (the top boulder). Lovely rock, lovely views, and a cracking collection of problems:
Stefan Grosman, The Overhang, (and their respective sitters), The Crack, The Pocket, V6 Traverse, even the stuff over the dry stone wall is worthwhile.
Many boulders like Stanage’s Grand Hotel, or the Hepburn’s Northern Soul have 2 or 3 classic problems, but for sheer density of top quality climbing I can’t think of any that would better it.
Fits the criteria as a distinct standalone boulder, and has classic problems from about font 5 (The Crack) all the way up to far too hard for me.
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Groove armada boulder at lad stones is massive with loads of good problems on
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This
Surely this is a no brainer...... A Northern Soul boulder, Hepburn.
Another vote for this one. Would be a gem in middle of font.
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Seeing as NI is 1/4 of the UK I'd go for one of the Fairhead boulders. Boombastic or Eat It?
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Langdale Boulders, both of em
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Gotta be northern soul boulder. Every problem on there is 5 stars.
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One of the boulders at St bees has got to be on the list, but my memory is too hazy to name a boulder. Aesthetics, situation, and so many good moves.
Think my vote would be the bowderstone of the places I've visited so far.
A lot of the climbing on the calf is too uncomfy for a best of. I could love with the virgin boulder.
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100% bowderstone
Perfect landing, good height, okish spread of grades (could do with several more 6's/low 7's), and the sheer number of boulders and linkups to get at is staggering.
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Hmm. It's basically an outdoor kilterboard.
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Hmm. It's basically an outdoor kilterboard.
I hope you aren't suggesting that is a bad thing.
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Good god the fucking bowderstone?! You may as well nominate the left hand upstairs boulder at TCA.
If grimers suggestion of having them all in one place was true the bowderstone would be the one at the back that everyone took a shit under.
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Hmm. It's basically an outdoor kilterboard.
I hope you aren't suggesting that is a bad thing.
Might be your poison, but it's not mine. Duma sums it up better.
I have a soft spot for the John Peel Memorial Boulder in Glen Clova. Mainly because the first new probs I did in Scotland are on it, but it's a good block, variety of angles, and some hard recent additions from Max Milne. Amazing views in all directions too. Lacks a bit of height maybe.
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Good god the fucking bowderstone?! You may as well nominate the left hand upstairs boulder at TCA.
If grimers suggestion of having them all in one place was true the bowderstone would be the one at the back that everyone took a shit under.
Depends a bit on your interpretation of the question I think. If we're talking desert island boulder then the bowderstone is a pretty practical option, and it is a pretty rad piece of rock. It's definitely not the prettiest though, and I wouldn't say any of the problems individually are stand out lines.
If we're talking pure quality of the individual lines then something like Northern Soul boulder is going to be hard to beat.
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Good god the fucking bowderstone?! You may as well nominate the left hand upstairs boulder at TCA.
If grimers suggestion of having them all in one place was true the bowderstone would be the one at the back that everyone took a shit under.
:clap2:
Northern Soul is a lump of crag, it's only got two facets exposed.
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There’s only one boulder that attracts 18.1 million visitors per year and is so big it has a ladder installed. I can’t think of a more impressive boulder in the British Isles and it’s got loads of climbing on it.
A couple of other comments. NTBTA is not a very good problem. Reachy lurchy first move. Even more overrated is Malcs Arête. Both look good in photos but don’t actually climb very nicely.
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If the Bowderstone was in your garden you'd get mega strong at least
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Horses for courses. I agree NTBTA looks good but isnt great to climb but disagree about Malc's - flowy moves on comfy holds and culminating in a big satisfying heartbreaker move with a perfect flat landing.
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I'm struggling to remember and I haven't got the guide on me. Is the Groove Armada boulder mentioned upthread the same bit of rock with Underground Butler and Warstarter on it? If so that's a very strong contender.
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I've not been, but the ship boulder (Malcs) has got to be up there? Amazing looking, great quality rock, beautiful situation, lots of problems, grades 5 to 8B+, shit loads of stars - including at least a couple of total classics.
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This thread has just highlighted that we really need a top 3 in each country, plus one at fair head?
UKs too bug, and most people don't travel enough to get a fair representation.
I felt the Bowderstone was similar to any of the big boulders at Dumby, but it somewhat lacked obvious and striking lines.
It's a total shocker that I've never made it to ship boulder. Hoping for a dry spell this spring and I'll get up there.
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It's a total shocker that I've never made it to ship boulder. Hoping for a dry spell this spring and I'll get up there.
Been a long time since i was there too, let's make a plan.
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I'm not saying it's an actual contender (it clearly isn't) but I always thought Utopia in the pass was amazing and would be very hard to beat at that grade level.
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rock quality. grade spread. Situation. Training potential. good lines.
Bowderstone. 2/5 4/5 4/5 5/5 2/5
Ship 5/5 3/5 5/5 2/5 5/5
Leaping Stone 4/5 4/5 4/5 3/5 4.5/5
My top 3 uk. All still have at least 1 decent proj left on. I would probs pick the bowderstone for the back garden as it'd wind the neighbours up the most and i could sand blast it regularly.
Honorable mentions to Caseg boulder (NW). Spindle boulder (FH) Barry (NYM) Great Flake (Y) Loch Katrine (Scot)
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Which Block at Loch Katrine? I thought there were a few.
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Which Block at Loch Katrine? I thought there were a few.
Assume it's the one at Glengyle on the north side of Loch Katrine. Can't find many details other than a mention in the 2010 Stone Country blog and a link to the SMC page which matches the details on UKC.
Randomly I cycled past this today and scoped out the approach. Undecided about riding back with a pad so would be good to find out more.
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Leaping Stone
I thought this was the Drake Stone but it isn't is it?
In which case, what /where is it?! Pics? I thought my knowledge of big blocks was pretty good but I genuinely don't know where this is.
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Leaping Stone
Where is?
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Leaping Stone
Where is?
Not sure but looking at photos on BM Flickr, it's maybe Kielder Forest/Border Reiver badlands?
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Leaping Stone
Where is?
It's in the back of Kielder. An easy 5 hour ebike journey from the roadhead, plus a 3 hour approach through the pines. Only two topos were produced, lovingly CNC'd onto a pair of hardwood tablets which were distributed to Nicky and Aiden (they say hi) with strict instructions to burn after reading. This act of annihilation was committed by each as they bivouacked alone under the boulder, the flames casting shadows which danced across the rock, the smoke spilling upwards into the ink-black depths of the night, lost among an infinite archipelago of stars.
No idea why nobody else is out repeating these great lines :shrug:
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With a bit of untranslated Spanish in there and the punctuation removed this could almost be from Blood Meridian.
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I've had a little think about the few places I have been, which is pretty small tbh (peak, st bees, southern sandstone, churnet valley, some limestone choss, bowderstone, some lake bouldering):
The block (the one that has velvet silence at black rocks) - just amazing piece of rock with crazy problems, and quite picturesque especially with a mist, also probably has the best boulder problem in my eyes in the UK).
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Leaping Stone
Where is?
It's in the back of Kielder. An easy 5 hour ebike journey from the roadhead, plus a 3 hour approach through the pines. Only two topos were produced, lovingly CNC'd onto a pair of hardwood tablets which were distributed to Nicky and Aiden (they say hi) with strict instructions to burn after reading. This act of annihilation was committed by each as they bivouacked alone under the boulder, the flames casting shadows which danced across the rock, the smoke spilling upwards into the ink-black depths of the night, lost among an infinite archipelago of stars.
No idea why nobody else is out repeating these great lines :shrug:
You're not wrong
https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/50489032552/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/50371830132/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/50175494748/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/51498264210/
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From a 'best' perspective, from those I've visited my vote would go to the Ship boulder.
However if I could have one in my garden then it would be the Bowderstone, it'd take a long time to run out of things to do (even if none of them are stellar lines / top quality) and you'd get very strong.
I also rate the Tetris boulder, which someone mentioned up thread, though can't really remember what else is on it.
To throw another one in the mix, don't think anyone has mentioned the Wave boulder on Dartmoor. I've only dabbled so can't really comment but is it a contender?
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What about The House boulder at Bradley edge? Not everyone's cup of tea but I hear some people really dig it.
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Contenders so far then are:
- The Bowderstone (Borrowdale)
- The Ship (Torridon)
- The Virgin (Almscliff)
- Groove Armada (Lad Stones)
- Leaping Stone (Northumberland)
- Superbloc (Tintatel)
- Lower Caseg Boulder (North Wales)
- The Great Flake (Caley)
- Barry (Stoupe Brow)
- Spindle (Fairhead)
- Grand Hotel (Stanage)
- Northern Soul (Hepburn)
- The Calf (Ilkley)
- Langdale Boulder 1 (Lakes)
- Tetris Boulder (Roaches)
- The Prune (Yeadon)
- Wonderwall (Crafnant)
- Zoo York (Caley)
- Mallory (North Wales)
- Ruthven (Strathnairn)
- The Wave (Dartmoor)
- The House (Bradley Edge)
We're talking about a purely freestanding individual boulder, which rules out Zoo & Northern Soul as they're buttresses.
There then seems to be two camps; quality of individual problems and quantity of problems to do (across the grades). I think the best boulder should please both crowds, which rules out Grand Hotel, Spindle, Great Flake, and Mallory on absolute quantity, plus Ruthven, Wonderwall, The Prune, Lower Caseg, Tetris and The Calf as they don't have any straight up 8s despite lots in the 6s and 7s. I think Barry also loses out here as it doesn't really have anything in the lower grades at all.
You could probably rule out The Ship as well at this point, as it has a great big gap between 7C+ and 8B+.
That leaves The Bowder, Langdale, Virgin, The Wave, The House, Groove Armada and Superbloc.
Only two of those have anything in the high 8s, but I think you could make an argument that the best boulder doesn't necessarily have to have anything quite that hard.
Add in to the mix the situation of the boulder, the rock quality and quality of the lines.
I think good landings are a prerequisite, which rules out The Groove Armada block.
I think on the basis of rock quality and situation, versus the others that also means you have to rule out the Bowderstone. It's never not annoying having hordes of tourists walking up, which detracts from what is otherwise a lovely spot, and it keeps on breaking plus is often seeping. Plus, as has been made clear, it simply doesn't tick the box in terms of strong, clean lines. This rules out The House too.
I'd suggest the Superbloc has to meet a similar fate. The vast majority of the problems are link ups or traverses rather than clear lines and some of the rock is a bit sharp and miserable. The latter eliminates The Wave.
Which leaves Langdale, Leaping and Virgin.
In the absence of further details, I'll ignore Leaping for now.
Langdale is clearly a strong contender, but I think it simply doesn't have enough to go at. I think the best boulder should really be all things to all people, and the volume and variety of climbing on the Virgin is absolutely incredible. Highballs, lowballs, slabs, traverses, brilliant clean lines (I reckon The Fox is up there with Chiasmata and The Matterhorn for best lines at the Cliff), technical sloper slapping, blood curdling crimping, roofs, steep board style things, dynos, burly brutality. It really does have something for everyone across the grades, from 4 to unrepeated 8s. The rock quality is great, the view is beautiful.
Wonder how much those houses on Merrybank Lane go for :-\
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I'm genuinely surprised the Pebble at Stanage isn't getting more love. Great spread of problems across the grades (and even styles). High but not too high. Can climb on all sides, quick drying. Photogenic. Definitely a better all-round boulder than the Grand Hotel. Maybe familiarity breeds contempt.
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I'm genuinely surprised the Pebble at Stanage isn't getting more love. Great spread of problems across the grades (and even styles). High but not too high. Can climb on all sides, quick drying. Photogenic. Definitely a better all-round boulder than the Grand Hotel. Maybe familiarity breeds contempt.
If I was stuck on a desert island and all I had was The Pebble I'd stop climbing :lol: More seriously, it doesn't really have much quality above ~7A except Deliverance (lank reliant, luck based scrittle etc.)
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I'm genuinely surprised the Pebble at Stanage isn't getting more love. Great spread of problems across the grades (and even styles). High but not too high. Can climb on all sides, quick drying. Photogenic. Definitely a better all-round boulder than the Grand Hotel. Maybe familiarity breeds contempt.
If I was stuck on a desert island and all I had was The Pebble I'd stop climbing :lol: More seriously, it doesn't really have much quality above ~7A except Deliverance (lank reliant, luck based scrittle etc.)
Haha, maybe that says more about this forum than bouldering in general if quality above 7a is a requirement. Don't get me wrong, I don't think the pebble is the best boulder in the UK. I'm just surprised it is getting a touch overlooked.
Has Boardman's boulder at Carrock been mentioned?
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Eagle Boulder at Dumby has to be up there. Amazing problems in the 6s, 7s, and 8s. Lifetime's worth of climbing.
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Ruthven, Wonderwall, The Prune, Lower Caseg, Tetris and The Calf as they don't have any straight up 8s despite lots in the 6s and 7s.
The sitters to Caseg Groove and Main Vein are 8A and 8A+. No high 8s but I don't think that'll ever be an issue for me! Plus, the rock is absolutely incredible, and the pleasant setting by the river is just splendid. Stick a can of pop in the water keep cool, to go with your sarnies later. Oh yes!
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Leaping Stone
Where is?
It's in the back of Kielder. An easy 5 hour ebike journey from the roadhead, plus a 3 hour approach through the pines. Only two topos were produced, lovingly CNC'd onto a pair of hardwood tablets which were distributed to Nicky and Aiden (they say hi) with strict instructions to burn after reading. This act of annihilation was committed by each as they bivouacked alone under the boulder, the flames casting shadows which danced across the rock, the smoke spilling upwards into the ink-black depths of the night, lost among an infinite archipelago of stars.
No idea why nobody else is out repeating these great lines :shrug:
You're not wrong
https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/50489032552/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/50371830132/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/50175494748/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/51498264210/
Now that last one catches my eye. The bab paraphernalia in the background indicates that it's accessible (unless Dan has a kid's chariot attachment for the ebike).
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The Kabbah boulder on Lewis.
Free standing, bigger than the Ship,all grades, good landings, great rock, hard projects.
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'Kabbah Boulder'? - never heard of it. Any more info/pics/links?
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Yeah, never heard of that one Sherlock. Any details?
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Is it one of the "Uig Hills" boulders?
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'Kabbah Boulder'? - never heard of it. Any more info/pics/links?
There's a pic on the cover of the Boulder Scotland guide.
Gaz, thought you'd known about it for years?
Chris, spot on. Aye, there's gold in them thar hills. And while I remember is there any info on the John Peel boulder in Clova? I've only done trad there years ago and wondered if it was worth the tortuous trip from the NW for the bouldering?
I'll try and write up what's been done when I get a spare minute.Or someone gives me another lifetime.
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I remember richieb raving about the quality, always meant to have a loo. One for the e-bike?
If I lived in the NW i wouldn't bother driving to Clova just for the bouldering. There are some great probs, but it's pretty scattered, and development has been so sporadic that UKC and the old Scottish Climbs are the best source. It's a great place though, that Glen has given me so much (there next Sat for the half marathon, hopefully a wee session after).
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'Kabbah Boulder'? - never heard of it. Any more info/pics/links?
There's a pic on the cover of the Boulder Scotland guide.
Which one? ;D
(https://imgcdn.ukc2.com/i/173576?fm=webp&time=1604185261&s=0b8757e61197212904ebe0f08cbae76d)
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Wow, some of these boulders on Lewis look awesome!
(https://2f1a7f9478.visitscotland.net/wsimgs/Boulder-Glen-at-Mealaisbhal-Uig-Isle-of-Lewis-photo-by-Mangersta-Croft-Holidays_1721538269.jpg)
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Is that the boulderfield under Creagan Tealasdale? Some friends have been there, having just stumbled across it, and said it's amazing. Is there much actually documented?
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Nice Will Nice. The Leaping Stone is near kielder castle 2 miles off the forest drive. One day it might be roadside with permission but for now people need to park on the drive at the nearest carpark (or at the castle if have ebike) and walk the 2 miles in. with an ebike its trackside and a doddle. They have been logging there until this year but i think they're finished for now, before Arwen there was a mooting of allowing parking up there at some point but the FC care 0% about climbers, (understandably as its only just one or two people doing it at the mo) even more so nowadays with the 300square miles of kerplunk they've now got after their battery farmed monoculture crop all got toppled because its all planted on peat bog. The last time we were there in a big group the warden walked over asking if we were placing any metal in the rocks, we answered no and he seemed very disappointed he couldn't DO us for anything, we then forced him into some amicable conversation. On the plus side it looked like they were replanting deciduous acid tolerant species up there. I've done a topo but was waiting on the FC one day getting back to me as it'd be a perfect venue for climbers to get permissive parking at oneday. i'll give it a few more months then whack it on UKC etc as technically there are no access issues on anything in kielder if you dont drive on their roads. It has really good problems 6B-8B so far and almost one of every grade, landings are all perfect mossy grass.
Kabaah boulder is ebike for easy access for sure. i'd say its lack of development would discount it as there are alot of other potential best boulders that havent been realised yet. definitely the best undeveloped uk area by the looks of it. surprised to see it mentioned tbh thought it was ullapools best kept secret!
Katrine boulder is the massive one on north west side of the loch. Also much easier on ebike. bit of a theme developing up north... Its on UKC as such: https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/katrine_boulder-16109/
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Sounds mint :2thumbsup:
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definitely the best undeveloped uk area by the looks of it.
I thought that place was held by the Ben More giants.
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The Leaping Stone is near kielder castle 2 miles off the forest drive…
Dan, what proportion of “The named Stones of Northumberland; being a list of huge stones, single and in groups, in situ and detached, to which local names have been given in the County” (pp531-536 https://archive.org/details/historyofberwick09berw/page/534/mode/1up ) would you say you’ve inspected?
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definitely the best undeveloped uk area by the looks of it.
I thought that place was held by the Ben More giants.
They don't look all that amazing from photos? Happy to be telt otherwise.
Gotta be more untouched giants in the woods in the area between there and Arrochar (given what's obvious and visible from the road). I remember seeing some impressive blocks somewhere beneath Beinn Ime or Ben Vane on a winter ramble years ago, but dismissing them as too far from the road (seems that's not a thing any more).
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To throw another one in the mix, don't think anyone has mentioned the Wave boulder on Dartmoor. I've only dabbled so can't really comment but is it a contender?
I live 20 minutes away, and I can safely say that no, this is not in the same category as others mentioned here.
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definitely the best undeveloped uk area by the looks of it.
I thought that place was held by the Ben More giants.
They don't look all that amazing from photos? Happy to be telt otherwise.
The arete/prow thing on the Ben More boulder is very impressive. Whether it climbs well is clearly going to be a matter of taste, judging from some of the preferences expressed on this thread!
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'Kabbah Boulder'? - never heard of it. Any more info/pics/links?
There's a pic on the cover of the Boulder Scotland guide.
Which one? ;D
(https://imgcdn.ukc2.com/i/173576?fm=webp&time=1604185261&s=0b8757e61197212904ebe0f08cbae76d)
Sorry Jamie, brain fog! Page 300
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The arete/prow thing on the Ben More boulder is very impressive. Whether it climbs well is clearly going to be a matter of taste, judging from some of the preferences expressed on this thread!
Kind of OT, as they are not probably not part of this list and don't comply with the judgement criteria, my comment was that they could be the best undeveloped area. No idea how they climb, as they are mostly unclimbed IYSWIM.
As Andy said, there are some other giants out there, notably the ones mentioned, as well as the "Crianlarich Blocks", and some beasts in the glens around Ben Lawers I spotted out ski touring a few years back. Access is another story, but they are all (arguably) easier to access than a long drive and a ferry to the Outer Hebs. And the Glen that Maccy Dave was developing recently that I can't recall the name of.
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I remember richieb raving about the quality, always meant to have a loo. One for the e-bike?
If I lived in the NW i wouldn't bother driving to Clova just for the bouldering. There are some great probs, but it's pretty scattered, and development has been so sporadic that UKC and the old Scottish Climbs are the best source. It's a great place though, that Glen has given me so much (there next Sat for the half marathon, hopefully a wee session after).
Don't have a bike, we've always walked in which is about 40 mins to an hour depending on how lucky you get on choosing a line through the constantly changing peat bogs.
Thanks for Clova info, we've just driven up the East, pishing down, maybe have a look next time we're passing.
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Another vote for the Spindle boulder at Fair Head (aka the Shelterstone) stuff up to 8B or so for the hard lads, one of the best 5's around (Brought To You By The Letter M) and a couple of nice 6's.
If it was RoI only, I'd probably say Big Jane in Glendalough. Every problems a classic except one, which would be a classic if you could get rid of the dabby block at the start
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Thanks for Clova info, we've just driven up the East, pishing down, maybe have a look next time we're passing.
Yeah, been consistently bloody awful weather for about 3 weeks now. Shout next time you are near can show you some things.
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Is that the boulderfield under Creagan Tealasdale? Some friends have been there, having just stumbled across it, and said it's amazing. Is there much actually documented?
That's the one. Various stuff by various different parties, indeed it needs sorting out.
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'Kabbah Boulder'? - never heard of it. Any more info/pics/links?
There's a pic on the cover of the Boulder Scotland guide.
Which one? ;D
(https://imgcdn.ukc2.com/i/173576?fm=webp&time=1604185261&s=0b8757e61197212904ebe0f08cbae76d)
Sorry Jamie, brain fog! Page 300
No worries. I don’t have the book but my brother does. I’ll get him to send me a picture.
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[quote author=carlisle slapper link=topic=33772.msg683586#msg683586 date=169901302
Kabaah boulder is ebike for easy access for sure. i'd say its lack of development would discount it as there are alot of other potential best boulders that havent been realised yet. definitely the best undeveloped uk area by the looks of it. surprised to see it mentioned tbh thought it was ullapools best kept secret!
[/quote]
Aye Dan as you know the access isn't the only reason for it being undeveloped.
The glen has its own unfathomable micro- climate which means it can be thick mist and drizzle while it's cool & dry at the parking.
As for it being Ullapool's best kept secret, quite a few people have been there now,see Andy's post above for instance. I love it up there but it does entail considerable expense and time to get the most out of a visit. I suspect it would be cheaper ànd less time consuming for most folk to go to Font or Albarracin.
Anyway, miles OT now, so apologies!
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Seeing as NI is 1/4 of the UK I'd go for one of the Fairhead boulders. Boombastic or Eat It?
As someone who's met their tib & fib in a way I'd rather not repeat, I can't help but feel the majority of FH bouldering* is somewhat compromised by the landing. Also, I'm just a touch bitter that I was out-lanked for the FA of something on the Eat It boulder.
*this is now quite some time ago now so perhaps there's plenty of things that don't risk a one-day party trick of your right foot touching your right knee :sick:
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That bit of the Works is still referred to with a shudder as Bennett's Corner.
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'Kabbah Boulder'? - never heard of it. Any more info/pics/links?
There's a pic on the cover of the Boulder Scotland guide.
Which one? ;D
(https://imgcdn.ukc2.com/i/173576?fm=webp&time=1604185261&s=0b8757e61197212904ebe0f08cbae76d)
Sorry Jamie, brain fog! Page 300
Ah, I know the photo. Didn't know the name of the boulder though. Always wanted to go in there.
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Seeing as NI is 1/4 of the UK I'd go for one of the Fairhead boulders. Boombastic or Eat It?
As someone who's met their tib & fib in a way I'd rather not repeat, I can't help but feel the majority of FH bouldering* is somewhat compromised by the landing. Also, I'm just a touch bitter that I was out-lanked for the FA of something on the Eat It boulder.
*this is now quite some time ago now so perhaps there's plenty of things that don't risk a one-day party trick of your right foot touching your right knee :sick:
Fair point about the landings, there are some big holes to disappear down if you miss your mat! I couldn't commit to the top move of carbide for fear of the landing.
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So does anything actually top The Virgin or does the cliff win once again??
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Nice Will Nice. The Leaping Stone is near kielder castle 2 miles off the forest drive. One day it might be roadside with permission but for now people need to park on the drive at the nearest carpark (or at the castle if have ebike) and walk the 2 miles in. with an ebike its trackside and a doddle.
Just be warned Dan’s ‘ah it will be 15min on a normal bike’ is more like 45mins of hell :lol: though the rock and shapes are very good (albeit we didn’t climb because it was wet)
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Eagle Boulder at Dumby has to be up there. Amazing problems in the 6s, 7s, and 8s. Lifetime's worth of climbing.
This is the correct answer.
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The Leaping Stone is magnificent. I also have a particular fondness for Boardman's Boulder but it just doesn't compare.
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Seeing as NI is 1/4 of the UK I'd go for one of the Fairhead boulders. Boombastic or Eat It?
As someone who's met their tib & fib in a way I'd rather not repeat, I can't help but feel the majority of FH bouldering* is somewhat compromised by the landing. Also, I'm just a touch bitter that I was out-lanked for the FA of something on the Eat It boulder.
*this is now quite some time ago now so perhaps there's plenty of things that don't risk a one-day party trick of your right foot touching your right knee :sick:
Fair point about the landings, there are some big holes to disappear down if you miss your mat! I couldn't commit to the top move of carbide for fear of the landing.
Still not exactly perfect flat landings, but a lot of the big classic problems have had landings vastly improved over the years. In ways that look very natural too. Was there a couple of months ago, and felt way less sketchy than when I did lots of bouldering there in '09/'10
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Eagle Boulder at Dumby has to be up there. Amazing problems in the 6s, 7s, and 8s. Lifetime's worth of climbing.
rock quality. grade spread. Situation. Training potential. good lines.
Eagle Boulder 2/5 5/5 1/5 4/5 4/5
Fair?
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Not very fair Chris. Rock quality is impeccable if you like basalt. I much prefer it to the rhyolite of bowderstone. And no skin shredding issues.
Situation.. 1/5? everyone knows dumby has problems with litter and broken glass. But under the main crag, with the sun setting on the clyde and views up to ben lomond, it can be a really beautiful spot.
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Agree to disagree. I really don't like the rock, often blocky holds, and close to frictionless. Great for training on (hence high rating) but otherwise I don't enjoy it.
Might be beautiful for that sunset hour or so each day when it's nearly too dark to see the post industrial wasteland, litter, and graffiti, but you have to admit it's not a patch on some UK high moorland and highland locations.
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Could scrape 2/5 for the novelty and variety of the situation??
(https://imgcdn.ukc2.com/i/109799?fm=jpg&time=1235646699&s=ded46dfb3c800e1d7e7524255c89b582)
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Hmmm. White stuff is a novelty, as well as sun being out to enjoy a sunset. 1.5 for the days when there is both..
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Great replies. Special shout out to carlisle slapper who read the question properly and showed his equations :smartass:
Some thoughts from my personal experience / perception:
Grand Hotel Boulder at stanage gotta be up there surely?
Not loads else but what else do you need!?
I need more than two classic problems, one of which has a shit start and the other is too hard.
Maybe The Calf @ Ilkley? I've only been once for a brief fiddle, but the big steep face looked amazing for highball frighteners.
Not bad except too much board-monkey nonsense on the main face and chipped buckets on the back. It has presence at least.
Another vote for Langdale (the top boulder). Lovely rock, lovely views, and a cracking collection of problems:
Stefan Grosman, The Overhang, (and their respective sitters), The Crack, The Pocket, V6 Traverse, even the stuff over the dry stone wall is worthwhile.
Good call, that's more like it.
If The Virgin was on a desert island that would certainly be an improvement.
Yeah I only put it in to appease the Yorkshire clique.
Goodness me no! Wonderwall is horrendously sharp, utterly grim. And the landings are dreadful. Yes it's a good boulder, but miles from being the best.
Nah Duma was right to bring this one in, fairly good grade spread, masses of problems, nice view, the rock is no worse than grit, and most of the problems can be made okay with a few pads especially if you move the entire patio from beneath My Private Idaho and repurpose it under Riley's Arete.
Good god the fucking bowderstone?! You may as well nominate the left hand upstairs boulder at TCA.
If grimers suggestion of having them all in one place was true the bowderstone would be the one at the back that everyone took a shit under.
:clap2: I would definitely rather have the Depot 30 board on the side of a freestanding bit of scaffolding rather than the Bowderstone. Again only put in to appease the neanderthal taste-deprived board-monkey goal-climbing yobs.
If I was stuck on a desert island and all I had was The Pebble I'd stop climbing :lol: More seriously, it doesn't really have much quality above ~7A except Deliverance (lank reliant, luck based scrittle etc.)
Not having much quality above ~7A is a selling point for me :P
Eagle Boulder at Dumby has to be up there. Amazing problems in the 6s, 7s, and 8s. Lifetime's worth of climbing.
Ah yes, I had a bit of a mind blank when considering Dumby (for all of 5 seconds) and could only remember Pongo and BNI, and forgot about The Eagle which I should have name checked, also it's got great problems in the 5s too. I will take Chris's point and agree with splitting the location score at 1.5 / 5 tho.
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Lower caseg boulder
Crag las
Sheep pen boulder
Bowderstone is also great (though the front face it pretty uninspiring)
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Agree to disagree. I really don't like the rock, often blocky holds, and close to frictionless. Great for training on (hence high rating) but otherwise I don't enjoy it.
Might be beautiful for that sunset hour or so each day when it's nearly too dark to see the post industrial wasteland, litter, and graffiti, but you have to admit it's not a patch on some UK high moorland and highland locations.
When was the last time you were there Chris? It's generally a lot cleaner, friendlier and more graffiti free than the past. Also, depends what you consider the credentials of "location", if you give it its due for being able to be accessed by public transport from a major city, with it's own microclimate with surprisingly consistent conditions, minimal seepage, good scene.
Not universally 5* but 1.5 is missing a lot of the locational benefits.
Wrt to rock quality, just have to agree to disagree! You might not get on with it, but that's not 'cause its bad! It's just got a unique frictional directionality to it.
And you can't just lank most things ;)
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"location" does not mean convenience access to a major Urban Conurbation as far as I know, in that case Agassiz Rock and Adel Crag would be up for consideration. It refers to view and outlook.
I've not been in a while admittedly, I've chosen Cunningar Loop and TCA when I've been in town.
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Which Block at Loch Katrine? I thought there were a few.
Assume it's the one at Glengyle on the north side of Loch Katrine. Can't find many details other than a mention in the 2010 Stone Country blog and a link to the SMC page which matches the details on UKC.
Randomly I cycled past this today and scoped out the approach. Undecided about riding back with a pad so would be good to find out more.
The Glen Gyle boulder documented in that 2010 Stone Country blog post is not the one Dan is talking about. That one is actually in Glen Gyle. Dan's is on the opposite side of the loch from Stronachlachar.