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the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: wasbeen on March 06, 2020, 05:24:14 pm

Title: >=7A boulder recommendations on Portland for the short
Post by: wasbeen on March 06, 2020, 05:24:14 pm

My daughter has asked me to ask whether anyone can anyone recommend her any Portland boulders 7A-7C that might be suitable for the not-too-tall (round 5 foot ish). Cheers. Martin

Title: Re: >=7A boulder recommendations on Portland for the short
Post by: teestub on March 06, 2020, 06:26:23 pm

I don’t remember Lightning Strike being too reachy, and thought it was one of the better things on my one day visit there!

Title: Re: >=7A boulder recommendations on Portland for the short
Post by: Coops_13 on March 06, 2020, 06:44:48 pm

I'd also say Neil Armstrong, Lost Decade might fit the bill at Cuttings Boulderfield. LS is compression-y so may not work - not sure.

I also enjoyed the Flake on Battleship Beach (a bit chossy though)

Title: Re: >=7A boulder recommendations on Portland for the short
Post by: wasbeen on March 06, 2020, 06:56:53 pm

Hi. Hannah here. Thanks for your suggestions. I'll have a go at Neil Armstrong and lightning strike tomorrow. I flashed lost decade a couple of weekends ago.

Title: Re: >=7A boulder recommendations on Portland for the short
Post by: Herbert on March 06, 2020, 07:02:19 pm

If you flashed Lost Decade then Years Around the Sun is worth doing. I think The Terrace RH is great and I don't remember it being reachy. Have fun!

Title: Re: >=7A boulder recommendations on Portland for the short
Post by: wasbeen on March 06, 2020, 07:05:27 pm

I flashed that too. The Terrace looks good though.

Title: Re: >=7A boulder recommendations on Portland for the short
Post by: sdm on March 06, 2020, 09:12:52 pm

If you are going to try Lightning Strike, Relativity 7A next to it is good as well. Small moves through the roof. The only possible move that might be a bit reachy is going up after getting both hands on the face. But I have a vague recollection of there being an intermediate hold that I chose not to use.

Slightly out of the grade range but I thought Tension Set 7C+ was really good. Powerful moves out of the roof with feet quite close in and an undercut that might suit a shorter person.

I would stay off Stay Off the Weed 7A+ unless she can do it quickly. The block on the left kind of spoils it, I used feet that were quite far away and the crimp is hatefully sharp.

Title: Re: >=7A boulder recommendations on Portland for the short
Post by: wasbeen on March 07, 2020, 08:51:50 am

Thanks for all of the suggestions. I'll have fun trying them today. Hannah

Title: Re: >=7A boulder recommendations on Portland for the short
Post by: wasbeen on March 13, 2020, 07:44:15 pm

Hi. Thanks for the suggestions. I got Neil Armstrong and Faraday Cage last weekend. I also got liquid sun and one for the road.

I was wondering if any one had any more suggestions maybe around 7b?

Thanks again.

Hannah

Title: Re: >=7A boulder recommendations on Portland for the short
Post by: Duma on March 13, 2020, 08:48:47 pm

Ope in Hell? Then you can try the sit too

Title: Re: >=7A boulder recommendations on Portland for the short
Post by: wasbeen on March 14, 2020, 09:49:24 am

Thanks. That boulder looks really cool. I’ll definitely have a go at that.

Title: Re: >=7A boulder recommendations on Portland for the short
Post by: monkoffunk on March 14, 2020, 04:16:06 pm

Work shy might be worth a try! There is beta that avoids the jump.

Title: Re: >=7A boulder recommendations on Portland for the short
Post by: wasbeen on March 14, 2020, 05:46:02 pm

Thanks for all of the suggestions. I got Tension Set 7C+ today. I started on the undercut below the starting hold as apparently one of the starting holds broke off last year. It still felt about right for the grade.

https://youtu.be/-ug_-yizhHM

I’ll go back to have a go at Workshy next time. Thanks again.

Hannah

Title: Re: >=7A boulder recommendations on Portland for the short
Post by: monkoffunk on March 15, 2020, 09:39:51 am

Good effort!

If you get on with Workshy might be worth giving Workaholic a go too!

https://www.instagram.com/p/Bd5077tFIe5/?igshid=pw1zv4gwum1f

Title: Re: >=7A boulder recommendations on Portland for the short
Post by: wasbeen on March 15, 2020, 11:11:23 am

Workaholic looks awesome. Thanks. I’ll definitely have a go at it.