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the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: Adam Lincoln on February 19, 2004, 11:05:15 am

Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Adam Lincoln on February 19, 2004, 11:05:15 am
Okay, off to Font next weekend again, then again weekend after. Third time this year  :lol: Just for getting in the mood, lets hear your top 10 7's
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: dave on February 19, 2004, 11:14:16 am
i think i'm covering old ground here..and you might have done most of em....but sod it, heres the ones i enjoyed:
Thats 10, and you should probably do carnage anall, evn though its not actually that good. peace out.
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Carnage on February 19, 2004, 11:39:13 am
These would be mine. Haven't done all but either done or messed around on each:-

Cortomaltese
Medaille Un Chocolat
Little Karma Assis ('cos I'll never do the proper one!)
La Joker
Magic Bus
Rubis Sur Ongle
Jet Set
Graviton
La Belle Guelle
La Coeur

BTW- Have any of you boys printed off the topo for the new area Roche Qui Tourne near Milly from Bleau.info. Looks like a good area, about 80 probs from 4 - 8b. Guessing it wont have been poffed too much yet. Defo gonna check it when I get out there in March.  :D
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: ian h on February 19, 2004, 11:47:02 am
cul de chien
helicoptere
araginee
chasseaur de prises
el pousif
le couer
voltex
l egoiste
cortomaltese
hyper plomb (not that i done it)
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Adam Lincoln on February 19, 2004, 11:53:59 am
Everyone mentions Courtno maltise... Always thought it a bit of an eliminate. Once established you can use a hold out left which makes it easier. Though i reckon still 7a. Anyone know if this infact in?
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Kim on February 19, 2004, 11:57:23 am
a few different ones:
le Mur Cordier - Cuisiniere
Gargantoit - Gorges du Houx
la Baleine - Petit Bois
a l'Impossible, Nul n'est Tenu, Roche aux Sabots - my nemesis
el Poussif - Isatis - my other nemesis!
all the dynos at Franchard Sablons are cool and Smatch at Roche aux Sabots is fun
lepreux direct, la coeur and jet set are bo as t'others mentioned
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Carnage on February 19, 2004, 11:58:04 am
Dunno if its in. Saw a Frenchman lambasting his mate for having the cheek to even use the crack thing you slap again to.
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: AndyR on February 19, 2004, 11:59:31 am
Quote from: "Kim"
a few different ones:
le Mur Cordier - Cuisiniere


Any tricks for this? Flailed pretty miserably on it and it brought on a fine dose of font-elbow :evil:
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Kim on February 19, 2004, 12:03:26 pm
Quote from: "Adam Lincoln"
Everyone mentions Courtno maltise... Always thought it a bit of an eliminate. Once established you can use a hold out left which makes it easier. Though i reckon still 7a. Anyone know if this infact in?


nah, it's out, it's quite far left tho innit? don't remember being tempted to use it anyway (i don't think, hope i didn't  :oops: ).
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: ian h on February 19, 2004, 12:04:17 pm
re: cortomaltese

i always understood the hold out left was out, altough i have only done the problem using it.

never really bothered trying it without though as seems abit pointless
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: dave on February 19, 2004, 12:04:59 pm
Quote from: "Kim"
nah, it's out, it's quite far left tho innit? don't remember being tempted to use it anyway (i don't think, hope i didn't  :oops: ).


i've never even noticed this hold. its not needed anyway.
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: ian h on February 19, 2004, 12:08:26 pm
use the left hold for my foot
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Kim on February 19, 2004, 12:13:27 pm
Quote from: "AndyR"
Quote from: "Kim"
a few different ones:
le Mur Cordier - Cuisiniere


Any tricks for this? Flailed pretty miserably on it and it brought on a fine dose of font-elbow :evil:


yeah, let me see if i can remember....
think i started left foot and left hand on, and go up with right hand. once you get into the groove with both hands high in it, get your right outside edge on really high, so your proper laybacking (popped off loads from here, feels well tenuous), then slap out to arete with right hand and if your feet don't pop you're sorted!
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Doylo on February 19, 2004, 12:15:08 pm
Surpolm de coquille assis
ange naif
rubi sur l'ongle
surpolomb de bivoac/retour aux sources
big boss

have a crack at Buerra Marga at Istasis for 6a+ :shock:  :shock:
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Scouse D on February 19, 2004, 12:15:30 pm
Think it's deffo out. The best way i find is not to match the slopers but get RH one and jump through to top with left. If left foot stays on it's a doddle!
As Kim says Gargantoit is superb and burly, and la baleine is top although not done it(hard and high!!).
Jump at 95.2 is proper bo too, and is surplomd du bivouac at 95.2
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: dave on February 19, 2004, 12:18:52 pm
fucking hell i'm psyched for font. only 7 weeks to go.
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: AndyR on February 19, 2004, 12:19:11 pm
Quote from: "Kim"
Quote from: "AndyR"
Quote from: "Kim"
a few different ones:
le Mur Cordier - Cuisiniere


Any tricks for this? Flailed pretty miserably on it and it brought on a fine dose of font-elbow :evil:


yeah, let me see if i can remember....
think i started left foot and left hand on, and go up with right hand. once you get into the groove with both hands high in it, get your right outside edge on really high, so your proper laybacking (popped off loads from here, feels well tenuous), then slap out to arete with right hand and if your feet don't pop you're sorted!


Nice one - cheers.
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Adam Lincoln on February 19, 2004, 12:19:51 pm
Aye, Surplomb de Bivouac is my favourite problem in Font! Reet Bo
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: dave on February 19, 2004, 12:26:12 pm
one question for everyone -is t'joker at cuvier really that good? in know its supposedly a "classic", but when we were trying it last time it just seemed shit, they'd not even chipped the holds to be nice holds. I got more psyched for that 7b dyno to the right of it.
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: tc on February 19, 2004, 12:28:28 pm
Off the top of my head:
El poussah
Alta
Mur des lamentations
Ange naif
Aerodynamite
Rubis sur l'ongle
Super joker
Carnage/ Berezina
Sale gosse
Cul de chien roof

Is that ten? Should be enough for a good coupla days :?
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: billy on February 19, 2004, 12:31:14 pm
Can't think of any others of the top of my head (not been to font for a long while....... getting withdrawal symptoms with all this talk of it!),  but the Excaliber arete thing at cuisinere is absolutly awesome (7a+ apparently on bleau.info). :D

Oh and la joker at cuvier is a pretty sound problem!
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Adam Lincoln on February 19, 2004, 12:34:40 pm
Hmmm, seems ive done most of the peoples favourites...

Have to do some more digging. Though meeting up with some Bleausards, so should be able to keep me entertained!

Here are a few of my favorites, on top of the ones suggested!

Fleur De Rhum - Apremont
Mister Proper - 95.2
Egoiste/Egoiste Sit - Apremont
Hyperplomb - Apremont
Clin Doeil - Apremont
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: dave on February 19, 2004, 12:38:04 pm
how did you do Clin D'oeil? we sort of rocked round right and went for the top round there, but i suspect thats "cheating".
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Kim on February 19, 2004, 12:39:30 pm
for your viewing pleasure.....

www.thesend.co.uk/media/Gargantoit.mov


...Scouse on Gargantoit 7a/+ Gorge du Houx

psyche!

 :up:
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: ian h on February 19, 2004, 12:40:19 pm
surplomb de bivouac? 95.2

cant find this in my guide. any more info?
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Adam Lincoln on February 19, 2004, 12:41:38 pm
Quote from: "dave"
how did you do Clin D'oeil? we sort of rocked round right and went for the top round there, but i suspect thats "cheating".


Left hand starting on good hold, left food on edge. Upto sharp edge with right hand, then swap feet and slap for rounded top(Actually, jug top :wink:  For the people who want to flash it)

Sound bout right?
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Kim on February 19, 2004, 12:41:53 pm
Quote from: "ian h"
surplomb de bivouac? 95.2

cant find this in my guide. any more info?


i think the bleausards think it's only 6c+ or summat cos it ain't in 7+8...
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Adam Lincoln on February 19, 2004, 12:44:20 pm
Quote from: "ian h"
surplomb de bivouac? 95.2

cant find this in my guide. any more info?



Up path at 95.2

Pic of my badself on it last year

(http://www.fatsloperaction.com/Hard%20Sloper%20Action/Font/Adamsurplomb.jpg)
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: dave on February 19, 2004, 12:44:53 pm
Quote from: "Kim"
for your viewing pleasure.....

www.thesend.co.uk/media/Gargantoit.mov


...Scouse on Gargantoit 7a/+ Gorge du Houx

psyche!

 :up:


that gets funnier every time i see it. the look on the face on topout speaks volumes. :lol:

who's chalkbag was that by the way?
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: ian h on February 19, 2004, 12:45:17 pm
ah cool

have it in the pink guide now. looks like it could be tricky to find, with that tiny map?

given 7a in there but like you say not in the 7&8
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Kim on February 19, 2004, 12:51:26 pm
Quote from: "dave"
that gets funnier every time i see it. the look on the face on topout speaks volumes. :lol:

who's chalkbag was that by the way?


that was the first (and only) time any of us got past the heel-on move so it was a bit like venturing into a very slopey, holdless unknown...  :D

I think Scouse actually owned that chalkbag  :shock:  :wink:
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: dave on February 19, 2004, 12:53:53 pm
Quote from: "Kim"
I think Scouse actually owned that chalkbag  :shock:  :wink:


 :owned:  :?:  Sounds a bit far fetched to me.

I bet he's not got in anymore. :roll:
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Kim on February 19, 2004, 12:55:46 pm
Bubba, can we make this thread sticky?
I think we need a permanent Font thread for pics, vids, lists an stories to keep us all psyched between trips... 30 posts already in a coupla hours  :lol:

roll on april...
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: dave on February 19, 2004, 12:57:39 pm
i just started a photo thread gigga.
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Doylo on February 19, 2004, 01:00:04 pm
Surplomb is called Retour aux sources/Etrave de Gauche in the 7+8 guide.
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Doylo on February 19, 2004, 01:01:57 pm
Gargantoit looks fuckin desperate in that vid! Spose it is 7a though innit.
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Kim on February 19, 2004, 01:02:42 pm
Quote from: "Chris Doyle"
Surplomb is called Retour aux sources/Etrave de Gauche in the 7+8 guide.


ah, good knowledge!  :up:
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Carnage on February 19, 2004, 01:06:32 pm
Everyone loves a Font thread. Agree- Should be a permanent fixture. :D
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Scouse D on February 19, 2004, 01:07:38 pm
that chalkbag lasted me the whole font trip! Fuck knows what happened to it.
I'm pumped again after watching that video!
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Bubba on February 19, 2004, 01:10:21 pm
Well if ya'll keep posting, it'll stay at the top anyway.... :wink:
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Stu Littlefair on February 19, 2004, 01:58:29 pm
Top ten font 7s (and I've tried to get ones in here you might not have done.)

1) Onde Choc, Apremont (7b)
    It's a vertical version of the terrace, what more do you need?

2) La Pensees Cachees, Cuisiniere (7b)
    Wicked little arete, and for extra value traverse in using a leg jam (7c+)

3) A L'impossible...., Sabots (7a++++++)
    Definitive fingernail font slab nasty.

4) Eclipse, Cul de Chien (7c/+)
    Fully the best roof climbing ever seen, and a fucking magic crux at the end

5) Pierre Precieuse, 95.2 (7a)
    AKA La Yaniro. figure of four fun for all the family!

6) El Pousiff, Isatis (7a+)
    Included cos it's really easy, ergo good for ego.

7) Iceberg, Isatis (7c)
    Oh my god. I've just creamed my pants

8) L'abbe Resina (7c)
    The only boulder problem I've got up before dawn for.

9) Power (7c), Rocher Canon
     Does exactly what it says on the tin

10)  Miséricorde, (7c+), Cuisiniere
       Highball arete and fucking brilliant
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Adam Lincoln on February 19, 2004, 02:10:14 pm
Aye, forgot about Ondo! Bit scarey when you've got your heal on and reach up with your left. Think your gonna land on the boulder behind!

Does Eclipse do any of the roof? Or does it start at the lip?
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Kim on February 19, 2004, 02:14:07 pm
Quote from: "Stu Littlefair"

6) El Pousiff, Isatis (7a+)
    Included cos it's really easy, ergo good for ego.


 :twisted:  :twisted:


any beta for the top move?
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Stu Littlefair on February 19, 2004, 02:43:16 pm
Quote from: "Adam Lincoln"
Aye, forgot about Ondo! Bit scarey when you've got your heal on and reach up with your left. Think your gonna land on the boulder behind!

Does Eclipse do any of the roof? Or does it start at the lip?


Eclipse officially starts with one hand on the lip. However, no-one is that tall, and it misses out the best climbing. Start in the same place as arabesque, and you'll not be dissapointed - you'll need to do some opposing feet shizzle and some wierdy undercutting and you'd be forgiven for thinking 7c+ was fair...
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Stu Littlefair on February 19, 2004, 02:43:57 pm
Quote from: "Kim"
Quote from: "Stu Littlefair"

6) El Pousiff, Isatis (7a+)
    Included cos it's really easy, ergo good for ego.


 :twisted:  :twisted:


any beta for the top move?


hee hee. Thought that'd get people riled. Use yer knee, youth.
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: dave on February 19, 2004, 02:45:35 pm
i thought eclipse started with both hands on undercuts, before the lip?
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Stu Littlefair on February 19, 2004, 02:53:17 pm
nope, don't think so. You couldn't pull off the ground on those two undercuts alone. Most tall people I've seen have their right hand on the lip, and their left on the undercuts. It's a much better problem climbing into the undercuts from the starting pockets of arabesque though, and even shorties can start it like this.

There's a top video on modump.com showing it being done this way...
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: dave on February 19, 2004, 02:59:32 pm
Quote from: "Stu Littlefair"
nope, don't think so. You couldn't pull off the ground on those two undercuts alone.


i've seen people do just that - in fact i've never seen anyone do/try it any other way! come to think of it that exactly how christophe lamoune describes the sequence in the pink godoffe guide.
i would say starting with a hand on the lip is probably cheating. climbing through like on totaleclipse does look rad though.
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Adam Lincoln on February 19, 2004, 02:59:33 pm
Why has the guy got all those lines on the last hold in that vid!?!  :shock:
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: dave on February 19, 2004, 03:03:59 pm
Quote from: "Adam Lincoln"
Why has the guy got all those lines on the last hold in that vid!?!  :shock:


maybe he's got cataracts or something.
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Scouse D on February 19, 2004, 03:19:54 pm
don't get me wrong, I ain't done eclipse, but I've done most of it(to the crack anyroad) I i start at the two undercuts. The way to pull on is to believe that your hads will stick and jump your feet to head level-as soon as they hit the footholds the undercuts feel good...saying that it would make more sense to do as stu says and start as for arabesque....
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Stu Littlefair on February 19, 2004, 03:36:46 pm
Jesus dave - that sounds suicidal! I'll stick with my own method, if it's all the same by you as I can't bear the thought of what would happen if your feet missed  :shock:
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: dave on February 19, 2004, 03:38:36 pm
I recon a good (i.e. hands out of pockets) spot is pretty essential!
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Scouse D on February 19, 2004, 04:40:07 pm
Aye Stu-it fucking hurts if you get it wrong...tis truley stupid beta.
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: mark on February 19, 2004, 06:53:31 pm
Quote from: "Adam Lincoln"
Everyone mentions Courtno maltise... Always thought it a bit of an eliminate. Once established you can use a hold out left which makes it easier. Though i reckon still 7a. Anyone know if this infact in?


I'm with you on this. Completely eliminate. Big hold out left that makes it considerably easier. Very good problem with the hold but not allowed on Cortomaltese, I reckon. Seems weird that an eliminate gets so much praise in the midst of endless non-eliminates.
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Omega on February 20, 2004, 10:42:32 am
Quote from: "Scouse D"
Aye Stu-it fucking hurts if you get it wrong...tis truley stupid beta.


here you go - some truly stupid beta in action:

http://www.powerband.cactusclimbing.co.nz/global/video/eclipse.htm
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Adam Lincoln on February 26, 2004, 09:16:10 am
Off to Font in 24 hours!!!  :clap:

(Sorry, just had to tell someone)  :roll:
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Johnny Brown on February 26, 2004, 09:40:10 am
Quote
9) Power (7c), Rocher Canon
Does exactly what it says on the tin


Hmmmm, I favour a little peak technique. Get yer weight on yer foot and yer in. Good to see the strong struggle on it though :wink:

As for eclipse, I started like Scouse, though being a fair bit shorter, there was real positive thinking involved. Couldn't get into the crack though :(
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Adam Lincoln on February 26, 2004, 09:48:37 am
Quote from: "Johnny Brown"

As for eclipse, I started like Scouse, though being a fair bit shorter, there was real positive thinking involved. Couldn't get into the crack though :(


Hmm was going to have a play on this at the weekend, might not bother then now  :shock:
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Adam Lincoln on February 26, 2004, 09:43:31 pm
Just spoke to my mate in Fontainbleau. Its been dry for days, the grounds covered in snow and its below freezing  :lol:
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Doylo on February 26, 2004, 10:36:24 pm
BASTARD, BASTARD :guns:  :guns:  :guns:  :guns:
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Adam Lincoln on March 01, 2004, 10:34:41 am
Well, Font was mint! Both days cool, but with sun! Friciton was ace

Loads of stuff done, the best being Rubis Sur L'ongle which and i onsighted and L'ange naif. Hurt my finger on this though  :roll:

ps - congrat to Ru for doing his first 8a in the forest  :drink:
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: dave on March 01, 2004, 10:36:01 am
any good photos?
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Adam Lincoln on March 01, 2004, 10:37:10 am
Quote from: "dave"
any good photos?


Yup, loads of good ones. Will put them up this evening as i couldnt be arsed bringing camera into work. Good pics of Rubis Sur L'ongle, L'ange naif, yogi and Sal Grosse
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Doylo on March 01, 2004, 11:33:57 am
Which 8a did Ru get done?
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Doylo on March 01, 2004, 11:42:07 am
Adam, you seem to have put a 7a down on yer scorecardythingy as 8a. :shock:
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Adam Lincoln on March 01, 2004, 11:50:12 am
Quote from: "Chris Doyle"
Adam, you seem to have put a 7a down on yer scorecardythingy as 8a. :shock:


Oops, yeah, Jet Set didnt really warrant 8a ;-)

Well spotted

As for the 8a Ru, did, cant remember the name
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Blunk on March 01, 2004, 04:03:14 pm
So what is the crux on Rubis sur L'Ongle? In the videos I have seen of it everyone aces it, with nary a wobble to indicate difficulty. The high right hand crimp looks small, if this is combined with shite feet things could get interesting quick.

Thanks--
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Adam Lincoln on March 01, 2004, 04:06:22 pm
Quote from: "Blunk"
So what is the crux on Rubis sur L'Ongle? In the videos I have seen of it everyone aces it, with nary a wobble to indicate difficulty. The high right hand crimp looks small, if this is combined with shite feet things could get interesting quick.

Thanks--


The final move to the good hold before the top i reckon. Though didnt think the whole thing was harder than V7
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Mike_H on March 01, 2004, 08:35:07 pm
Just got back from Font myself, conditions were even better this morning  Adam.

One of the lads out with us had a very good day today - he ticked L'Aerodynamite, L'abbe Resina, Carnage, Bouchiere (?) all before 12PM in time to get back to the Airport.  :shock:
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Adam Lincoln on March 02, 2004, 01:05:48 pm
Just booked flights for 4 days again in Font in 2 weeks :-) Not sure if skin will cope with Thursday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday  :roll:
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Bubba on March 02, 2004, 01:07:04 pm
How much are you getting flights for at the moment?
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Scouse D on March 02, 2004, 01:07:06 pm
fooking hell Lincoln, are you psyched or something?!!!
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Adam Lincoln on March 02, 2004, 01:09:10 pm
Quote from: "Bubba"
How much are you getting flights for at the moment?


Just paid £44 quid return. Going Thursday morning early and coing back monday morning

From Luton

With Sleazyjet
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Adam Lincoln on March 02, 2004, 01:10:22 pm
Quote from: "Scouse D"
fooking hell Lincoln, are you psyched or something?!!!


Iam in love wiht the place. Been twice already this year, just booked the flights for that trip, AND iam going out the week before. Just for 3 days though  :wink:
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Doylo on March 02, 2004, 01:21:21 pm
Why don't you buy yourself a little place there, i know you've got millions stashed away :wink:  :wink:
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Adam Lincoln on March 02, 2004, 01:28:51 pm
Quote from: "Chris Doyle"
Why don't you buy yourself a little place there, i know you've got millions stashed away :wink:  :wink:


Mate , iam looking! But its so expensive in the forest. Got a place i can always stay in Avon, which is 20 minutes from most places
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Doylo on March 02, 2004, 01:37:49 pm
what u want is an old barn u can do up into a nice little holiday cottage, rent it out when your not there and bingo, you'll be quids in!
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Mike_H on March 02, 2004, 01:45:43 pm
Quote
Mate , iam looking! But its so expensive in the forest. Got a place i can always stay in Avon, which is 20 minutes from most places


Everytime I'm in font I always have a look at the estate agents in any of the towns I go to. It would be awesome to have a place over there wouldn't it.

I do know one of the Burnley lads moved over there, and is living the dream so to speak.
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Bonjoy on March 02, 2004, 02:13:08 pm
Quote from: "Mike_H"
Quote
Mate , iam looking! But its so expensive in the forest. Got a place i can always stay in Avon, which is 20 minutes from most places


Everytime I'm in font I always have a look at the estate agents in any of the towns I go to. It would be awesome to have a place over there wouldn't it.

I do know one of the Burnley lads moved over there, and is living the dream so to speak.

 Would that be Ledge (good climber name, Crimp would be even better)? Went to his 40th birthday party last time i was in Font. Nice chap, nice buffet, had some nice prunes wrapped in parma ham, mmmm.
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Mike_H on March 02, 2004, 02:22:00 pm
Yes, only know him vaguely. Friend of a friend of a friend sort of thing.
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: ian h on March 09, 2004, 11:03:52 pm
just back from font. cheers for the top tip lads on surplomb de bivouac. absoloutly first rate.
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Kim on March 10, 2004, 12:30:04 am
Quote from: "ian h"
just back from font. cheers for the top tip lads on surplomb de bivouac. absoloutly first rate.


nice one. you got any pics? any other hard sends?

counting the days til easter....  :D
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Adam Lincoln on March 10, 2004, 10:16:56 am
Quote from: "Kim"
Quote from: "ian h"
just back from font. cheers for the top tip lads on surplomb de bivouac. absoloutly first rate.


nice one. you got any pics? any other hard sends?

counting the days til easter....  :D


Iam counting the days till Wednesday ;-)
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Carnage on March 10, 2004, 10:21:03 am
Only two and bit weeks left for me too!  :D  :D  :D  :D

Roll on 27th March.....................
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: dave on March 10, 2004, 10:23:10 am
exactly 31 days till we lay our gangta shit all over bleauside.
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: a dense loner on March 10, 2004, 10:31:36 am
shit dave, are you goin sunbathin??  :lol:
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: dave on March 10, 2004, 10:44:40 am
looks like it.  :8)

can always get up early before it gets hot or something. might work out better, last time i went for a week and climbed all day every day and by the final day i was destroyed, could barely lift my arms to hold a camera.
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: tommytwotone on March 10, 2004, 10:53:12 am
Hearminow...a week and a day until twotone goes out to reprazent the posse. Booking at the last minute rules.

I know this thread is abotu hardcore cranking, but I forgot about 'L'angle Allain' at Cuvier Rampart...looks mint!

I was gonna do it last year but busted myself before i got a chance - anyone done it?

bleau.info says it's "5+", which in my experience of Font means:

"somewhere between V1 - V10, towards the easier end if you're rocking some 80s tennis shorts, some ancient PAs, pof n a doormat"
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Bubba on March 10, 2004, 10:56:17 am
Quote from: "tommytwotone"
bleau.info says it's "5+", which in my experience of Font means:

"somewhere between V1 - V10, towards the easier end if you're rocking some 80s tennis shorts, some ancient PAs, pof n a doormat"


:lol:
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Carnage on March 10, 2004, 10:59:43 am
Went at the same time as you're going last year Dave.

Remember a day at Roche Aux Sabots when it was pushing 20 C with other days being plenty warm!!!

Didn't matter.  Early mornings were quality and all of us still clocked up a good amount of harder stuff.

Just remembered  as well the SOFTEST 7a tick ever. Forget Bizarre Bizarre etc......Clin D'Oeil at Aprement is the one.  :D
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: tommytwotone on March 10, 2004, 11:04:56 am
Quote
Just remembered as well the SOFTEST 7a tick ever. Forget Bizarre Bizarre etc......Clin D'Oeil at Aprement is the one.


I really wanna get my first 7a in the bag this time round, and what's more I'm not proud about it being a soft touch...so far thinking Cortomalthese and Joker at Bas Cuvier are worth a look, I'll defo give the above a go.

Any other suggestions?

Notice that 'The Real Thing' gives that double dyno at Isatis 7a, reckon that's legit?
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: ian h on March 10, 2004, 11:06:05 am
Quote from: "Kim"
Quote from: "ian h"
just back from font. cheers for the top tip lads on surplomb de bivouac. absoloutly first rate.


nice one. you got any pics? any other hard sends?

counting the days til easter....  :D


yeah have a couple of pics will try and put em on later. could not try a great deal of stuff as i had a hernia operation 1 month ago and should not really be climbing at all for at least another month.

the trip was the first time i have climbed since the op apart from a couple of very light wall sessions.

however i managed six 7a's.  although four of them i had already done on other previous visits. they included surplomb de biv, helicoptere, sylphide, lepreux direct, and also flashes of le couer and, jet set.

so was quite happy really.
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Carnage on March 10, 2004, 11:12:40 am
I wouldn't say the Joker was a soft touch!!!!

Cortomaltese, Bizarre Bizarre, Le Jet Du Toit Gauche , Rhume Folle,  Beetlejuice (Hueco thing next to Excaliber (god knows why its given 7a+)) and Clin D'Oeil are the softest imho.
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Scouse D on March 10, 2004, 11:48:11 am
that arete is Rhume folle which, as you and carnage both say, is very easy. Probably the most flashed 7a dans le foret.There's also a 7a aret at cuisinere next to the path which goes to duel. It's right piss I tell thee.
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Scouse D on March 10, 2004, 11:49:45 am
Le jeu du toit gauche at sabots is also pretty easy-as is jeu de toit itself-a bit burly but soft for 7b...
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: dave on March 10, 2004, 11:58:19 am
Quote from: "tommytwotone"
I know this thread is abotu hardcore cranking, but I forgot about 'L'angle Allain' at Cuvier Rampart...looks mint!

I was gonna do it last year but busted myself before i got a chance - anyone done it?

bleau.info says it's "5+", which in my experience of Font means:


Its brilliant, probably about crescent arete difficulty, only not bold.

was rading cocktalk other days it turns out that Rhume folle is only 7a if you don't use the sloper out left that everyone heelshooks. if you useit its 6b apparently. which makes it even more humiliating that i failed on it.

Double Dyno at isatis is not a legitimate 7a, for 2 reasons. Firstly its 6c, and secondly its an overrated peice of piss. Not even a great problem really.
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Scouse D on March 10, 2004, 12:00:08 pm
aye,angle allain is proper bo if not a bit short. Can be made more intersting one handed but that sort of misses the point a little!
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Carnage on March 10, 2004, 12:18:23 pm
Quote from: "Scouse D"
that arete is Rhume folle which, as you and carnage both say, is very easy. Probably the most flashed 7a dans le foret.There's also a 7a aret at cuisinere next to the path which goes to duel. It's right piss I tell thee.



I still cannot believe that that little arete at Cuisinere is 7a. I thought my mates were winding me up when they said what grade it was. I'll take the tick (thank you)  but its gotta be wrong. I mean, it feels about 6a at the most.
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Omega on March 10, 2004, 12:30:08 pm
Quote from: "Carnage"
I wouldn't say the Joker was a soft touch!!!!

Cortomaltese, Bizarre Bizarre, Le Jet Du Toit Gauche , Rhume Folle,  Beetlejuice (Hueco thing next to Excaliber (god knows why its given 7a+)) and Clin D'Oeil are the softest imho.


i think there is some truth in this comment.  but a couple of the problems are subject to rules for the 7a tick.

Clin D'Oeil must be climbed on the left side of the arete for 7a.  This basically means getting the good slopey pocket with the left, right on the low crimper and dynoing for the top.  Of course, this is an eliminate becasue there are some good gratons up and right of the arete and a killer toe hook as well - but its only 6b with these 'extra' holds.

as for Beetlejuice, again there are rules.  first, you gotta start low and left then follow the good holds right to a couple of small slopey pockets, then without using any of the bloc to the right for your feet (ie. anything past the fissure that marks a change in angle) you have to follow the pinches and pockets to top out on the right prow.  seemed pretty solid at 7a+ for me this way, but a lot easier with a higher start and all feet on.
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: ian h on March 10, 2004, 12:31:29 pm
does cuisinere not have reputation for being soft touch?

i am sure i read that in my mates english pink guide, but cannot check as i only own the french version
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Carnage on March 10, 2004, 12:38:22 pm
Quote from: "Omega"
Quote from: "Carnage"
I wouldn't say the Joker was a soft touch!!!!

Cortomaltese, Bizarre Bizarre, Le Jet Du Toit Gauche , Rhume Folle,  Beetlejuice (Hueco thing next to Excaliber (god knows why its given 7a+)) and Clin D'Oeil are the softest imho.


i think there is some truth in this comment.  but a couple of the problems are subject to rules for the 7a tick.

Clin D'Oeil must be climbed on the left side of the arete for 7a.  This basically means getting the good slopey pocket with the left, right on the low crimper and dynoing for the top.  Of course, this is an eliminate becasue there are some good gratons up and right of the arete and a killer toe hook as well - but its only 6b with these 'extra' holds.

as for Beetlejuice, again there are rules.  first, you gotta start low and left then follow the good holds right to a couple of small slopey pockets, then without using any of the bloc to the right for your feet (ie. anything past the fissure that marks a change in angle) you have to follow the pinches and pockets to top out on the right prow.  seemed pretty solid at 7a+ for me this way, but a lot easier with a higher start and all feet on.



Aaaaaahhh. Did Clin D'Oeil properly (still think its a softee, esp if you're tall) but think I *might* have cheated on Bettlejuice. I can't remember so I'll have to do it again!!
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: dave on March 10, 2004, 12:51:26 pm
beatlejuice is certainly hard work at 7a+. lets just say if its the end of your 5th day on you can find yourself repeatedly falling off the end cos you are busted. :oops:
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: a dense loner on March 10, 2004, 02:23:48 pm
we have had 7 pages, n more at other times, discussin font 7a's. how sum of us r sayin they're piss n others quite hard. let's keep the same logic but tweak the grade a little. lets say font 8c. it's not rocket science chaps.   :D
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: tommytwotone on March 10, 2004, 03:56:49 pm
anyone know if Medaille en Choc has changed since being chipped? I spoke to a geezer out there a couple of years back (just after it was done) and he reckoned it made it a couple of grades harder...

definately agree on the Isatis dyno ting...mate of mine did it doudle last year but then again he should have done, he's 6 foot 7 or something  :roll:
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Adam Lincoln on March 10, 2004, 04:06:08 pm
Quote from: "tommytwotone"
anyone know if Medaille en Choc has changed since being chipped? I spoke to a geezer out there a couple of years back (just after it was done) and he reckoned it made it a couple of grades harder...

definately agree on the Isatis dyno ting...mate of mine did it doudle last year but then again he should have done, he's 6 foot 7 or something  :roll:


Medaille is proabably 7a+ now, acording to the locals. A fairly good foothold was hacked of by that frickin pysco
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Carnage on March 10, 2004, 04:17:44 pm
Steve Gough mentioned on a Cocktalk thread that there was a rumour that one of the slopes on Cortomaltese had been 'improved'. Anyone been on it very recently?
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: Adam Lincoln on March 10, 2004, 04:20:22 pm
Quote from: "Carnage"
Steve Gough mentioned on a Cocktalk thread that there was a rumour that one of the slopes on Cortomaltese had been 'improved'. Anyone been on it very recently?


Ill have a look next week. Probably overzelous brushing by punters!  :roll:
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: jonP on March 10, 2004, 04:33:16 pm
Quote from: "Adam Lincoln"
Medaille is proabably 7a+ now, acording to the locals. A fairly good foothold was hacked of by that frickin pysco


I did it last October.  Yorkshire V6!  A truly superb problem.
Title: 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
Post by: cofe on March 10, 2004, 04:48:17 pm
yorkshire V6 would make it about font 3+ then :wink:

it is a truly ace problem - no copping out and going for the arete. just raw air jordan style straight to the boss.
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