Nice hat, cool vid!
Nice hat, cool vid!Agreed, tis a nice hat. Good work Dr.T!!
hmmm- wonder if I could catch Ty on his project :-\Nice hat, cool vid!Agreed, tis a nice hat. Good work Dr.T!!
personally I think it looks like someones drawn chalk lines on a pretended they're holds but Ty's a monster on dirty little crimps....
You have inspired me,
, cos i was alone, and i thought i would edit it as less as i could, like a little documentary.
i hope you like it and id like to hear your opinion.
http://video.google.it/videoplay?docid=3922023838610826403 (http://video.google.it/videoplay?docid=3922023838610826403)
here`s one I prepared earlier of some Parisella`s action http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cl-oSuqgluI it`s not the finished article i`m still playing around with different titles.
I don;t think these are non-quality videos, but in the spirit of the UKB personal bouldering video thread this is becoming...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=asNlup8-xxQ here`s a different version of my first upload :-\ nice woodie by the way :)
Surely mine is the worst of the worst.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xb3EB9z9D1g
Looks like Anthony Kiedis in the early 90s that chap.
grammer
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KPoXIhllfW0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KPoXIhllfW0My eyes are deeply offended by this piece of shit.
Out of interest, how did you transfer it from the old style Super8 to the modern electronic? Do you get Super8s with line outputs?
Excellent vid though!!
recently i did something very hard
ukb's very own ned in the plantation.I thought i had got away with it!
told you i would youtube it!
Quoteukb's very own ned in the plantation.I thought i had got away with it!
told you i would youtube it!
:oops:
Anyway, you have to do something to pass the time while everyone keeps falling off!
I hope you have got brad pit ticked now chappers. You were so close.
Your other videos are good too. Especially the lemon one... :o
Gillercombe from the weekend, damn it was hot!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hjfg0r74b8U
You should host it on Lakesbloc to avoid the crappy Youtube compression.
This was from yesterday. The thing I find mental is this was shot on my other halfs Nokia N95 camera phone! The quality (of the footage! ;) ) is awesome!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ld3z55Bb85A (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ld3z55Bb85A)
http://video.google.co.uk/videoplay?docid=7362159748691713828 (http://video.google.co.uk/videoplay?docid=7362159748691713828)
Some kudos wall (mostly the press!!) action I've put together. All just using video function on digi cameras, so quality isn't the best!
What are those problems? Somewhere at Churnet?
Quote from: Monkey BoyWhat are those problems? Somewhere at Churnet?
Yup. Gentlemans Rock I think...
This is probably my favourite move in the Peaks if not the country.
First time I've done this, after 5/6 attempts, due to nerves not difficulty. I was psyched for this for a year but it's quite steady really.
Uncle that outfit is....incomprehensible. Who wakes up and thinks "Ah, that's what I'll wear"?
Nice one Adam. Personally I don't like the swipe effects but pretty neat. Not today I assume as it's raining hard here. I am a fan of using the fade transition to merge clips using a tripod. Neat effect when used well.
I thought "Pasquill" had 2 "l"s?
I turned the sound off :lol:
How do you find elements?
Do you mean picture in picture or flipping between angles by cutting?
I used the more excitin transitions when I started out but they started to get annoying after a while so I tend to just use differing length fades now.
Why did you edit Big Marine before you topped out? :whistle:
Ifyou mean flipping between angles you kust edit clip lengths to the points you want the change to occur, then use a short transition (fade is best) between them. Is this the sort of thing you mean (Ridiculous Eliminate (http://brownstones.wetpaint.com/page/06a.++Obscenity+Wall+Eliminates))? Faster transition would give snappier flip between views if you wanted.
Ifyou mean flipping between angles you kust edit clip lengths to the points you want the change to occur, then use a short transition (fade is best) between them. Is this the sort of thing you mean (Ridiculous Eliminate (http://brownstones.wetpaint.com/page/06a.++Obscenity+Wall+Eliminates))? Faster transition would give snappier flip between views if you wanted.
Aye, word to that.... Ill get practicing for the big production!
nice vid. Is the soundtrack feist?
nice vid. Is the soundtrack feist?
Spot on. From the new album.
nice vid. Is the soundtrack feist?
Spot on. From the new album.
uncle,
do you really need to get more in shape?
i dont like being schooled by visiting britmonsters on my home turf!!!
c'mon, im psyched too!!!
:bow:
nice vid. Is the soundtrack feist?
Spot on. From the new album.
Whats the new album yet?
1st ascent of The Decoy Ploy (new fairly despy thing in Ogwen Valley) captured on film by Rob Lamey:
http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=274 (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=274)
Next day video production very efficient! :lol:
Good tune too nice one man!
Well, those of us who don't have jobs can stay in bed till 11, and still have a short film done by dinner time! ;)
sombodies been taking fashion tips from the baron,we're fly cats...
saltbeef's red trousers were in the wash that day :thumbsdown:
(http://ukbouldering.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10165/theredbaronmrsmooth.jpg)
I have uploaded a video shot in super8
http://www.theshortspan.com/video/super8-high.wmv (http://www.theshortspan.com/video/super8-high.wmv) High quality, 30mb.
http://www.theshortspan.com/video/super8-low.wmv (http://www.theshortspan.com/video/super8-low.wmv) Low quality 15mb
Right click and "Save target as..." to download.
Apologies as this ain't quite a bouldering vid but more of a day out. Would have put it in the chuffing forum but didnt think it merited a thread of its own. Its my first attempt at making a video so feedback is more than welcome. Be as nice as you can though :)
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=_hxXPYwe5tk
no one mention the location
You're getting pretty nifty with Adobe (or whatever you're using). Good stuff, but I'm not sure about the border? I look forward to more vids.
Apologies as this ain't quite a bouldering vid but more of a day out. Would have put it in the chuffing forum but didnt think it merited a thread of its own. Its my first attempt at making a video so feedback is more than welcome. Be as nice as you can though :)
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=_hxXPYwe5tk
I want my 3:23 back :'(
Feedback:
Do more climbing in it.
Stop wobbling the camera, it makes people ill.
Some titles are too quick to read.
Transitions, transitions.
The quality is awful, anything you can do about it?
Safe overtaking is important.
Went to North Wales bouldering yesterday and made this very short film of a couple of classics. Its called 'Two From The Pass' A rip off of 'Four From Font' ::)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vZsn-5WaG8c
Inspired by Adam Lincoln (borders) and Will Hunt (crap video), here's some bouldering in Glen
(http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D9uVRp4HHg4)
Inspired by Adam Lincoln (borders) and Will Hunt (crap video), here's some bouldering in Glen Nevis. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D9uVRp4HHg4) Nothing good I'm afraid: The Prow (V1), Maizie Gunn's Magic Midgie Cream (V4), a miserable effort on Hamish (V6) and Midnight in a Perfect World (V7).
We've tried some different stuff here (tripod as short boom, dual images) so any thoughts would be good.
yo lincoln that vid will look 100% better if you ditch the fan/clockwise wipe transition. looks well non-plus. theres a reason josh lowell and ben pritchard don't use em!
try just a normal fade from one shot to the next, or no effect at all maybe.
(http://C:\Documents and Settings\Joan Humphris\My Documents\Ben\alport)
http://video.google.it/videoplay?docid=8837253725954200673&hl=it
some footage from chironico...
;)
i concur with uncle. where are your armbands nibs? hardly recognized you
I had no idea the tonsure was making a comeback! ;)
this is awesome.did he teach tom cruise to climb?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LRTgTyTBfto&NR=1
this is awesome.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LRTgTyTBfto&NR=1
the amiata circuit.
Cae du bimbling. Click.
Wad point for anyone who can name the tune.
Lagers I had to stop that when he moved to the pad. Vicious, random stuff.should I have posted it in "diet, training and injuies"?
A quick session at Burb North
:great: betatastic clip...Since are so appreciative of the beta, I ought to point out that the last eliminate is not the alleged 7b+ listed in Ru's guide. In this clip I launch to a slopey edge (RH) a few inches below the top before going again to the jug. The hard one in Ru's guide goes direct to the jug (RH) - I haven't got any footage of that yet coz I'm too fat to do it consistently at the mo. It feels like 7b when I do get it.
:great: betatastic clip...More Burbage beta, sir?
Mr Lagerstarfish, am I right in deducing that they are chalk free, and retro shoed ascents? :bow:Aye.
I'm trying out this megaupload jobby to see if the quality is any better than pootube.Quality! bit of a pain waiting for it to start to download (without an acount).
I'm trying out this megaupload jobby to see if the quality is any better than pootube.Stage6 is worth a shot for larger screen size vids at reasonable quality (good for older relatives). Viewers need to download a player thingy and you need to use their converter to turn your film into DivX, but it can work great. Viewers can chose to download or watch as streaming video.
I've found it... the worst bouldering vid ever:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jn_EuLb_5Cc
no I didn't watch the entire thing, but I did get tempted by the title.
Lancashire brats getting spanked in yorkshire
oh my god, forgive me.
Do you always climb that quickly?
oh my god, forgive me.
Embrace the inner fool!Like it :thumbsup:
Egos off for power!
I'd have preferred it if when the camera angle changes (how did you do that by the way? Was it a wider angle shot that was cropped, or did you have a camera person?) the scenery didn't have that shadow effect, only the person. Just my thoughts. Quite enjoyed it still.
Vegas 7, just coz that what I could get my hands on rather than as a result of research. Quite like it. What have you been using DrT? GCW?cyberlink power director express because it was free ;D
It was filmed in w i d e s c r e e n and then cropped. If I had kept it all static when I applied the ghosting layer then only the moving figure would have been affected - like it is for the first couple of problems....you are right, it does look better.
though I'm a L to R man.
I've give up trying to jump for the top off the smears. It's massive for tiddlers. I've been trying the Minstrels method last few of times I've been there (thats like 3 times the past decade . . .) R Heel on the hold ans statique to the top.
5. DELIVERANCE font. 7b/+ (B9) Stanage "Plantation"
Because of extraordinary long distance between holds in not really overhanging slab the problem is technically very difficult to be estimated. Some people who are lower height talk about B10, meanwhile taller talk about easier grade. It had been statically done by March Le Menestrel. There is a joke about basket-ball player who took a pounce and pushed off from the lower part directly to the good upper hold. Otherwise, the problem begins on the left part, then it converts into slightly traversing to the right and then we have a legendary leap from extraordinary bad footholds directly to the top. For certain, the most appropriate is lower temperature and good spotting, mainly with bouldering pads. The number of movements is approximately 6.
The feet must be feeling much better! ;D
Deliverance...Just throw all in one motion, not that I've done it yet!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rDgpdm3WyGI Strong!
Am I the only one getting some weird music ting when I click on r-man's link?
Am I the only one getting some weird music ting when I click on r-man's link?Its not hard to make your right foot stick. Either you've been trying it in dirty shoes or your foot is in the wrong place
Bloody deliverance. One day my right foot'll stick and I'll do it - been trying the 'right foot high' method for years and am well close.
Blackstone Edge Bouldering:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a7FXUxLY8bY
looks hard
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R2Q_NugAhjM
like it, good fall off nik's arete! Was that Nik on it?
this is a great one
climb one: looks good!
climb two: so incredibly gay...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vrac4j7C79Y&feature=related
Shite vid.
Very impressive display of body tension and fitness, love the footwork indecisiveness.
He was on this problem for a long time and made some very impressive locks on 8mm edges. Waddage. I think this vid only confirms my opinion that top flight boulderers are chronic underachievers. Imagine what people could do if they really had to try hard. The slapping/sketching, fear, sloppiness of a man on the brink. That's not something we get to see very often. In fact it's something one sees more often in beginners.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oQ1Dr5-w-WE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gubXlWa5Irg
It's not actually bouldering, but I felt it deserved to go in here. I was considering the fit birds thread, but I seem to get shot down whenever I put anything in there!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HB7ScA7JDgw
Houd I refer you to this for my 2p on this subject.........
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,4073.msg138852.html#msg138852
cf. A marathon runner collapsing in the road when they've pushed themselves so hard. Boulderers don't reach their physical limits, they just don't.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oQ1Dr5-w-WE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gubXlWa5Irg
That second one is called "Beat it like a read headed step child" - a name which had me crying with laughter. Nice one Dave.
out of 10 people who snap a tendon or find their bicep suddenly next to their shoulder, 10 of them haven't warmed up sufficiently
Shite vid.
Very impressive display of body tension and fitness, love the footwork indecisiveness.
He was on this problem for a long time and made some very impressive locks on 8mm edges. Waddage. I think this vid only confirms my opinion that top flight boulderers are chronic underachievers. Imagine what people could do if they really had to try hard. The slapping/sketching, fear, sloppiness of a man on the brink. That's not something we get to see very often. In fact it's something one sees more often in beginners.
I heard of one guy whose finger pulley snapped so hard it actually broke the skin. Nasty.
I was climbing far better than I deserve that evening and this problem felt like 7a. Apparantly it is supposed to be 7b+ or something. I can't tell. 7b maybe?
A couple of nice problems at the Buckstones (http://www.vimeo.com/900293) (Nont Sarah's), Yorkshire.
Apologies again to Nik, but if you will let go of the jug..... :shrug:
Not really, there's the two roof problems and a good slope traverse (http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/photo.html?id=buckstones__traverse). Everything else is a bit disappointing. But it ain't too far from Blackstone Edge.
there's a mint looking sitter from a hard pinch just up and to the right of 'papa lazarou'. small overhanging bulge of rock a la kebs! looks good for a strong person, needs brushing though, could be a great hard problem ;-)
Dunno, Nik and I had a look about and didn't see anything obvious, unless it's above the road? We didn't look at the boulders above the road.papa lazarou is on the big block down and right of p,i,a,p if your looking uphill.its the very r/h arete again as you look up hill.i remember thinking the problems on this block didn't really have much of a line also the top outs looked to be the hard bits.
Anyone have the Hudd guide handy to tell us where 'papa lazarou' is?
papa lazarou is on the big block down and right of p,i,a,p
May go back and have another look when I'm next over that way.
precious things dyno. somehow reach the break in the end of the roof and dyno for the top.v5 this sounds like the finishing move to pig.
Non-quality spotting, climbing and camera work all rolled into one and then made even worse by youtube's videofuckery system. The tallent in this vid is currently in Font, so I propose laughing at him falling off a lot to make the rest of us feel better.Impressed ... Six hours of film compressed into a couple of minutes .....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K52xS5RpohM
HD link will follow later.
This video has been protected
this is a small vid on how my climbing has improved, and i'm happy about that. footage courtesy of rich crouch.
http://video.google.it/videoplay?docid=6703697551683834476&hl=it (http://video.google.it/videoplay?docid=6703697551683834476&hl=it)
this is a small vid on how my climbing has improved, and i'm happy about that. footage courtesy of rich crouch.
http://video.google.it/videoplay?docid=6703697551683834476&hl=it (http://video.google.it/videoplay?docid=6703697551683834476&hl=it)
Nice Edgeclinger spoof at: http://www.momentumvm.com/cms/index.php?option=com_frontpage (http://www.momentumvm.com/cms/index.php?option=com_frontpage)
Apologies for the skip and the green that sneaked in.
Nik at Work, SamD and myself in Silverdale.
Not bad Dave SDS 7c
Screaming Slave 7b
Whistler 7a+
Shallow Grave 7a+
We'reprobablygoing back up on Monday if you fancy it? Weather permitting etc....
Or "How to ruin a perfectly good ascent by topping out like a horny whale...."
Nice vid, liked the Primus at the start, going to have to dig out my old CD's now, cheers.
I liked the Albarracin video. Nice one Andy B. You've confirmed all my suspicions about the rock quality. :thumbsup:
this is probably the worst quality video ever on here
pro tip: clean the footholds BEFORE you try the problem. if you don't do it, and you fall off, it will be absolutely useless, later, to menace the greasy foothold with your fist.
evidence of said uselessness here:
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=2518326987905475219
(http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=2518326987905475219)
I watched the second vid first, thought it was Moffat for a second! :whistle:
I've loaded my comedy/magic masterpiece up to Vimeo, so you can see it at a decent size (click on the vid below)
http://vimeo.com/1955332 (http://vimeo.com/1955332)
Why the change to Vegas?
I've got some basic tutorial vids somewhere if you want them.
Pebble Wall would be a class ambition for you ms. pie. A lot about subtelty and "knack".I'm all about the subtlety me and I am about due for a weekend thrashing about on grit. Watch this space (for comedy videos).
Is UTG wearing socks or anklewarmers?? Wad point if it's the former.Double wad points for the latter, only the best people boulder in ankle / legwarmers. :whistle:
Do you want to "wad" him or shall I??I'm not wadding anyone for wearing socks. >:(
Its socks alright.
Fiend - you can wipe up your sticky sex wee now
Apologies in advance. This was my first attempt at using Vegas Pro and I'm not used to it at all.
Also, apologies to JIm 'cos he got to the high point on Pistol Whip but I haven't got that on film.
I think if you just drag the clips so they slightly overlap you get a simple crossfade, I'm sure that worked for me.
Its true. If the clips are on the same track, just overlap them by however long you want the fade to take.
Cheers for the keel beta, looks a lot better than the methods I was flailing to apply. Had never even checked out underhand in 2 trips to the cliff, so quite keen to go hunting when I next get the chance! Where abouts is it in relation to the DWR area?
Here is my contribution to the thread.
Here is my contribution to the thread.
You only need to copy & paste the URL and not all of the html code that YouTube provide you to embed your link. ;)
It was caught on the rock.C'mon you were makin sure you were lookin fly. Pimpin fresh yo 8)
Paul Robinson on The Riverbedohhh he touched the shrub - the dab police will be out for this one ;)
Using an NLE program with which you are familiar combined with a rather good camera probably takes about 2 full font grades off everything ;)
Nik, you still haven't realised that all problems are harder for the strong.
Good vid.
May be better to have faded the toonz though, rather than having 2 minutes of blackscreen :lol:
May be better to have faded the toonz though, rather than having 2 minutes of blackscreen :lol:
I forgot, and hoped no one would notice ;)
May be better to have faded the toonz though, rather than having 2 minutes of blackscreen :lol:
I forgot, and hoped no one would notice ;)
A fine opportunity to use the "replace video" function...
Just put together this short clip of Silk. Purely for beta purposes as it was shot from different angles, that didn't work light wise!
http://www.vimeo.com/2410285
Just put together this short clip of Silk. Purely for beta purposes as it was shot from different angles, that didn't work light wise!
http://www.vimeo.com/2410285
Ah, so you do step into that big dish after all....
I always have, Dave Musgrove at least has done it without.
I always have, Dave Musgrove at least has done it without.
shabby foot smudge out left on this sequence.
One from today at rivelin and some from font in novemeberReally needed to get the Hilliard fear-a-thon on the former ;)
What was the name again??
What was the name again??
Short arse's slab, if my memory serves me. About font 7b with 25 repeats (including 6 flashes in roller skates), wasn't it?
I've got over 90 minutes of stuff to edit, so this may end up being longer. Just experimenting to see how it goes down, cheers for the feedback.
I'll look forward to it.
Jeez, Adam- tapes are so cheap just buy fresh ones. Plus you may risk drop outs if you re-use them.
Skinflint ;)
I like the bit on Pixie Tits when Jordan and Dave are stood around looking disinterested until you latch the hold and spring into spotting action. Funny.
Interesing watching you all choosing your own ways to top out, looks like the crux?
Has got, Pixie Tits, Stu's Roof LH, Stu's Roof, and Pistol Whip, so good for beta.
A clip from the mighty 'cliff
I hate that problem. Good effort.
I am so horribly envious of you Neil.
Any chance you could put the area along with the problem names in the next dose?
Good effort on Megawatt, don't think it will make it onto my "things to try" list, looks tres reachy even for you!
Dunno if this has been put up before, and I don't know if it's the ideal thread to put it into, but I thought it would fit in here nicely.
those immense displays of strengthtommy,
Out of interest, what sort of grade do those immense displays of strength get him up outside?
Nice idea with the catch and release, catch and release thing.
I've often wondered, does jug H really extend that far right as far as Tom's original's concerned? :-\ If not I may be in some bother...
...........thinking longingly about the boulder.................I was thinking about climbing all morning...........I haven't felt that keen since last spring.........generally had an ace time.........
Lagers, me and you are definitely going climbing next time I'm down.
Denis Grey once told me that Don Whillans did the FA of that problem. Was regarded as the hardest boulder problem in the UK at the time. The first english 6b apparently....
If I have to put up with insomnia, then the rest of you have to suffer the consequences
Its bouldering and its non quality, but you do get to see young Barnaby (only 15) do YogiThe first problem in that vid is quality, I did it a few weeks ago. The crux is hard for those with a short span though!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ux1OzdOKz_c (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ux1OzdOKz_c)]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ux1OzdOKz_c
Its bouldering and its non quality, but you do get to see young Barnaby (only 15) do Yogi
Here's a shit vid of me messing about on some local sandstone:which sandstone....
http://www.vimeo.com/4458264 (http://www.vimeo.com/4458264)
It feels necessary to add that although I am under 18, I am not a member of red-tips, and never will be.
which sandstone....http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=563 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=563)
If I remember rightly you can fall into the river from the start of that problem?You could if you were going up rather than across and got very unlucky.
I apologise for using V grades earlier - it's just that I personally prefer them.
1) Aeon Prow? There's no climbing of Aeon Prow going on there.
If I remember rightly you can fall into the river from the start of that problem?You could if you were going up rather than across and got very unlucky.
The crag is in Winterbourne Down, I've got another video of me on a short solo/highball:
http://www.vimeo.com/4473309 (http://www.vimeo.com/4473309)
I apologise for using V grades earlier - it's just that I personally prefer them. I have no excuse for wearing socks in climbing shoes though. :oops:
Nik at Aeon block....
Nik at Aeon block....
Your own soundtrack composition??
Nibs, did you just spend 1 minute and 10 seconds cleaning your boots to campus?
You been to the RedTips video skool? :lol:
My first ever bouldering video.
My first ever bouldering video.
Ha Tom that video is shit, nice looking problem though.
Sorry, missed that FD.
It's Reunion 2 by Analord, from the Analord 5 EP.
dont know if its been posted, bug gangle features on bloodsport
quality it dropped to even after minimal compression
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6yBj8gi_hkA&feature=related (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6yBj8gi_hkA&feature=related)
Seriously though ;) with cheeks as big as yours Johnny that move is out of your league.
next week on my annual lime day out
:o
did you do some weights lately dave?
Here is a very shoddy clip of my pb on the home campus board.
Needless to say it was filmed with the camera on its edge, so I had a bit of an epic rotating it. Took the opportunity to make myself look a tiny bit taller
Here is a very shoddy clip of my pb on the home campus board.
Needless to say it was filmed with the camera on its edge, so I had a bit of an epic rotating it. Took the opportunity to make myself look a tiny bit taller
I think I'm impressed by that.
I think I'm impressed by that.
I think I'm impressed by that.
I think I am as well - I'd love to see a vid of your footwork if it's of a similar standard too.
andy does that foxy lady get 8a by climbing it and not shit jumping which is obviously much easier? tried this very briefly few years ago, thought it was superb but i also thought it was given 7c, which is why i stopped trying it. way too much like hard work, not that i'm shallow
Johnny can take his blinkers off and kiss my arse.
hey rodma,
could it be that i watched that vid on ned feehally's blog?
beast, anyway, i want to learn how to do it...
Now here's a thorny question.....
It was always done with that sequence and that's 8a no doubt. But with the nasty finger lock it's about 7b+.
Soooo, should we think of Pongo sitter as a classic 8a, or just a bad sequence for a 7b+?
A short vid from the evening's entertainment.
the one ascent did a more direct start
...posting of gritstone videos between the months of june and august I feel my fingetrips start to bleed...a growing sense of frustration..............disgusting
what's the point in this?
never, for no reason, a man has to remain with just underwear and shoes on.
Jas, please don't pollute this thread with turds like that again. :thumbsdown:
a nemesis sent into another galaxy.
(sorry)
Sorry Tom. Unless I'm mistaken, that looks like an alternative sequence to The Bizarre Ride, claimed by Gangle recently.
I went with nacho who said about what tom did but said it was a proj to do it direct as per vid. Tom used holds out left which I didn't use. this was a proj that ned and nacho were trying.
I also think this is the same thing as Tom's problem. I think Tom used a hold out left near the crack, but I repeated it like this about a month ago (i.e. without the left hold) because I couldn't do Tom's version.
Yes, found it a bit less reachy this way. Plus I found the holds at the back easier to hold going out right hand first.
Its a bit like river of life in that there are 2 good obvious ways of doing the same problem! Shame though as the heel you get to use on the other way is amazing!
Its a bit like river of life in that there are 2 good obvious ways of doing the same problem! Shame though as the heel you get to use on the other way is amazing!
I couldn't get the heel to stick either...
Nice one Andy, they all look entertaining. :thumbsup:
7b.
I reckon when that arete goes, it will be as a highball.
looks good. why does your friend keep looking at the camera? its unnerving
only been once, managed to forget about the buckfast youths. then my next question is obviously why wasn't he stood behind the camera :whistle:
Good determination by ascensionist number 2. Effort to both.
:o
BOULDERING 101 With Matt Birch DVD Trailer (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gN9Kvy6zBr4#)
:o
i nearly fell asleep half way through that matt birch vid
LJB looks vicious! Good fighting skills.
Effort. I think the grade disparity on Monologue is whether you can stick the top off that left foothold.
look at me.
Effort. I think the grade disparity on Monologue is whether you can stick the top off that left foothold.
Semi-rest day! Stop showing off Dave K!
Well done to you Krank, 10/10 for effort
- It doesnt climb the left arete
- It isn`t "very morhpo"
- It isn`t V10
- It doesnt climb the left arete
- It isn`t "very morhpo"
- It isn`t V10
sounds like a different problem to me :P
I've had a go at using that miniature model/selective focus effect for the intro to this
Are those really Fires ??
has this been posted already:
[Dorkage Vol. 1]
this is a small vid of one of my latest ascents, at amiata top. i think it's a cool problem, sadly i couldn't convince mo
nolith to try and fit himself into it. i think it would have been fun though!!!
FAME DI STELLE (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wM1pIZR9RiU#)
LJB will have to wait but I did Stallone Arete for the first time :great:
About 15 mins worth of hardcore non-quality from scugdale and then the cliff:
Bit of an experiment, this one:
I worked out what we did at Rocher Greau (third problem in the vid). It wasn't Conquistadores, it was Les Cons qui s'Adorent 6c (7a) (http://bleau.info/greau/17612.html). Get your tippex out. That slab round the back was Le Rince-Doigts (http://bleau.info/greau/9745.html) - a mere 6a!
Some Mid-Grade Classics (http://vimeo.com/7390811)
Really nice font vid liked that..where is the highball problem patience yaga at..please
Cheers! Had an awesome trip, ticked alot more than expected! My mate Chris has more footage in HD so there should be another video up soon. And before anyone comments on it my back did hit the boulder on Big Boss :-( oh well.
I'll be handing them out for handshandy favours in the new awful walls training tower this week coming :whistle:(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_IjaNaWHq_K0/SmUgEi7YRNI/AAAAAAAAAI8/1FOUE4jefZA/S1600-R/saruman-with-a-guitar.jpg)
Cheers! Had an awesome trip, ticked alot more than expected! My mate Chris has more footage in HD so there should be another video up soon. And before anyone comments on it my back did hit the boulder on Big Boss :-( oh well.
Cheers! Had an awesome trip, ticked alot more than expected! My mate Chris has more footage in HD so there should be another video up soon. And before anyone comments on it my back did hit the boulder on Big Boss :-( oh well.
Were you there with Fultonius? Oddly he doesn't feature ;).
Sorry, but I cant stand to see people stop mid-move to blow their tips! Really gets on my wick... NO NEEEEED
Sorry, but I cant stand to see people stop mid-move to blow their tips! Really gets on my wick... NO NEEEEED
Nowt up with a french blow, looks proffesional....
Sorry, but I cant stand to see people stop mid-move to blow their tips! Really gets on my wick... NO NEEEEED
Cheers! Had an awesome trip, ticked alot more than expected! My mate Chris has more footage in HD so there should be another video up soon. And before anyone comments on it my back did hit the boulder on Big Boss :-( oh well.
Were you there with Fultonius? Oddly he doesn't feature ;).
I like this. Looks like a good problem.
A quick vid of Meatball cruising Lou Ferrino. First time using the camera and Vegas/After Effects which crashed/bugged out when recoding for a few hours before it finally worked out so it's not as polished as I'd have liked!
A quick vid of Meatball cruising Lou Ferrino. First time using the camera and Vegas/After Effects which crashed/bugged out when recoding for a few hours before it finally worked out so it's not as polished as I'd have liked!
Whats the tune?
Richie Crouch asked me to make this vid of with him dropping the last move on Pit of Hell in the cave so thought I'd put it on here
That weak ginger fella needs to lose some weight and it'd get done!
ringwraith
What's the first problem? Those holds look great.
great video - should be in quality
The original concept was that "quality" thread was for Pro vids, and "non-quality" for films made by members of UKB.
So, this is a thread for anyone with bad quality bouldering video's.
Anything with Huwless 'Meathooks' Jones is quality
looks good, and a nice problem. What camera have you got??
Out with the broom, its the only way.
Couple of close ups and a snazy title and you can elevate to "Quality Videos", a high honour indeed.
When are you in Font? im going for my first trip, for a week, on the 23rd. Praying for dry weather and very excited :bounce:
First vid with the new camera....
What crag [where] is this?
First vid with the new camera....
The eatswood Traverse (http://www.vimeo.com/8558636)
First vid with the new camera....
The eatswood Traverse (http://www.vimeo.com/8558636)
Is eatswood rocks not banned anymore?
First vid with the new camera....
The eatswood Traverse (http://www.vimeo.com/8558636)
Is eatswood rocks not banned anymore?
Yes. so try to be discreet.
Roddy, your style is far better than Dave Graham's.
Thanks :-[, but bear in mind there is a pretty good (ie small campus-rung sized) hold, where there only used to be a little razor, which is the only reason that I could do it.
Thanks :-[, but bear in mind there is a pretty good (ie small campus-rung sized) hold, where there only used to be a little razor, which is the only reason that I could do it.
Nice one loon. Does the breaking hold affect the grade? Or is that the grade post hold breaking?
the hold breaking made it significantly larger.
roddy bloody good effort with that sequence ill giv u v12, i couldnt cut loose with my hands in that position, neither cud i span to go again to the fingerlock jug (prob v11 if u can).
super tall people can now do it with double knee bars (basically cheating) as a new foothold also appeared, looked more v10 if u could use this sequence. really cool problem whichever way u do it.
You should have read my Trowbarrow report (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,11713.msg240394.html#msg240394)!!
I hope that's the approved sequence :lol:
http://www.deadpointmag.com/videos/watch/one-hueco-0 (http://www.deadpointmag.com/videos/watch/one-hueco-0)That dude stayed at my house for a couple weeks last winter, I'm sure he thought the vid was 'totally sick and rad.'
I can't even tell if it's ironic or terrible
Willackers, how big are your feet? they look like canoeshoes!:lol:
http://www.deadpointmag.com/videos/watch/one-hueco-0 (http://www.deadpointmag.com/videos/watch/one-hueco-0)
I can't even tell if it's ironic or terrible
Is it just me, or does this Marc Lehner fella need to have a word with himself?
me neither?Is it just me, or does this Marc Lehner fella need to have a word with himself?
i don't understand ttt :shrug:
me neither?Is it just me, or does this Marc Lehner fella need to have a word with himself?
i don't understand ttt :shrug:
it is a jump start to that problem you know
Sorry I couldn't embed it, funk know why?
After ripping a couple of flappers on my left hand I decided to start trying to go right hand first, result...
Don't be like Jerry! :P
I liked that. Must go to Brimham sometime, haven't been for years.if you do remember that crack is out on ellwood p dowd.as the guide says a tricky fling for the top.
did you edit that will? good music, like the little foot shuffle at the top too
I should know better than taking a non climbing g-f climbing
Aye cos she'll be ok with them just being on YouTube. :PI should know better than taking a non climbing g-f climbing
Can't wait to hear what happens when she finds out you've posted the vids here. :lol:
Anyone any ideas what's up? motion plays fine for me full screen or when embedded somewhere.....
Steve, is there anything else on those Ingleby boulders worth going to have a look at?
Dutch was complaining about being out-lanked because the guy didn't have to jump to the Moffatrocity starting hold.
Nice vid Krank. That 6c+ traverse near Tier Drop looked like some nice moves.
this week i have mostly been puntering on, Ramshaw
Ramshaw (http://www.vimeo.com/11583515)
Only V2 according to the Leek lads tho!
there is a frog rock, but its carved i think, if not its pretty freaky. Stop drinking stuff you buy off Lagers.
Steve R: Nice looking problem, looks like you are doing a drop knee on nothing for the last move.
What is the music?
I thought it started lower than that, although I may be wrong.The sit start does :P
Let's put this in the right thread this time.nice vid Andi, they look like some really good problems.
A yorkshire season. (http://www.vimeo.com/12457485)
If anyone mentions "the kee" they'll get a puntering and a slapping.
Because I'm a hippy.I like the Rootask finish moves to sloper patrol, and the footage of Tom doing Bulbhaul - I'll miss seeing him around. :(
Here is my vid from when I visited a few years back, shows the problem from above. I couldn't do it as I couldn't get my leg tucked underneath my right arm :'(
I like the Rootask finish moves to sloper patrol
I'll miss seeing him around. :(
Was that the actual FA of Bulbhaul Andi?
... anyone know of a half decent editor that won't fuck over the quality?Depends if you want to 'pay' for it or not? The completely free ones are not much cop to be honest...Avidemux is fine if you just want to convert and not do a lot to the video (cut/crop etc).
Where's that? They look amazing venues.
oh wow! someone went to Matlock bank! Good effort, it's a fun little place. If you liked that you might also like Leashaw Brow and jonboy's stuff at Shining Cliff.
keep the fucking faithNice, I like it Lore
Reel Rock video comp ... mostly various american attempts at satire (http://reelrocktour.com/contest/)
I quite liked "Top rope tough guys"
So you know Ed do you? Do you know his surname so I can find him on facebook and show him the video?
Hey Tom ... looks good to me ... can you add it the UKB on Vimeo group (http://vimeo.com/groups/UKBouldering) to give us an excuse to add it to the home page.
I don't seem to have got it.
I'm guessing you're quite tall
Ye not only is he a lanky cheating bastard but he's also so tall he can miss half the foot moves out! ;)
vid of some friends in rocklands doing some med range problems
Amiata! (http://www.vimeo.com/16136899)
Start sat and pull on the pinch, probably the hardest move of the problem by a significant margin. I could pull on from a single mat and I'm a midget with a massive arse.
You might have to be on faceache to see this, but its class ;D
http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=1637253821271# (http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=1637253821271#)
Mark McQuade sending Prep H.
Effort.
A piece of custom built precision engineering made out of some plastic pipe and an old pair of roller blades one afternoon when I was feeling a bit "A Team"
Still in development phase, so has been buit in a way that lets me take it apart and rebuild it as refinements are needed.
at the end I was waititing for the flake to explode and for you to catapult off to the road below and get squashed by a lorry.
You're getting quite good at this aren't you.
You're getting quite good at this aren't you.
Do you mean the narcissistic self promotion or the making shit out of other shit?
Either way: yes I am, aren't I.
[/look@me]
No I meant Markus Bock impressions (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,2309.msg287906.html#msg287906) of course you dick.
Markus Bock... weighs about as much as an ant (http://usa.moonclimbing.com/markus-bock-c-368_378.html)
Brilliant!
Should be in the Quality thread!
Made me want to go climbing (even more than I already want to)
A handfull from the forest
Slopes (http://vimeo.com/17254879)
Effort doing some of those top outs unspotted, balls of steel to match those fingers.
Early Doors lank beta
Early Doors (7a), Curbar, Peak District bouldering (http://vimeo.com/17273671)
What lense do you use to get the short depth of field, or is this acheived in post production?
Early Doors lank betalank beta?
lank beta?
Have you linked to the dolly DIY thing already?
not really as I'm no giant and thats the way I do it apart from I don't use the bottom of the sloper.
I also use the higher sidepull sloper and I'm almost a pixie.
"vely bad sropey hold onry."
I don't know why but this just made me guffaw out loud. Does this make me a bad person?
Early Doors lank betalank beta?
some good vids btw
Lagers... is ace
Give it another foot and it might be time to get back in the high break.
Three in the snow from today :)
Three in the snow (http://www.vimeo.com/17981659)
so, here is a brief account of a days work under the roof, for those who may care.
its a strange video, beware, cos i was alone, and i thought i would edit it as less as i could, like a little documentary.
i hope you like it and id like to hear your opinion.
http://video.google.it/videoplay?docid=3922023838610826403 (http://video.google.it/videoplay?docid=3922023838610826403)
nige flashing what was meant to be a new 7c slab at the roaches.jb and nige thought 7b.
got a feeling dave aucott did it 7 or 8 years agohttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6CXPdTN6SdY
The sitter to the scratchy bun arete felt pretty hard too, maybe 7b :shrug: although could be much easier not sure, anyone comment?
The sitter to the scratchy bun arete felt pretty hard too, maybe 7b :shrug: although could be much easier not sure, anyone comment?
Not sure it's that hard, if it is it'd be my first at the grade. I was certainly having a good day when I did it and did some kind of trickery with my left foot that made the move for the small hold on the face static, can't remember what though. I'm afraid another :shrug:
nige flashing what was meant to be a new 7c slab at the roaches.jb and nige thought 7b.
got a feeling dave aucott did it 7 or 8 years agohttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6CXPdTN6SdY
cracking stuff that
nige flashing what was meant to be a new 7c slab at the roaches.jb and nige thought 7b.
got a feeling dave aucott did it 7 or 8 years agohttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6CXPdTN6SdY
cracking stuff that
Good to see this getting some attention :thumbsup:
maybe 7c was a bit over the top 7b seems more like it though these guys make it look about 6b, never been much good on slabs
It's quite an obvious line not to have been done before though I lot of grit crystals and quite a few brittle pebbles came off before I did it.
what are the other problems that are near there? had a look at them a while back, are there any other worth doing?
there are some great problems there if you're willing to contend with a bit of bushwhackingGood to hear others are getting off the beaten track Tommy. Have you done / seen Pok-a-tok, Bilberry bulge, Moptopbloc, Golden axe, A little sparkle and B.C.? All classic Yorks Eso.
:agree: well shot pish
(http://4chanarchive.org/images/gif/2844562/1263862310483.gif).
Sorry don't know how to embed gif files,
Lantern sessions on my own can feel a bit spooky,
any advice is much appreciated!
preferred the ned video of the Brad Pit jump :lol:
Just a quick one of the board, not a very hard problem as was more interested in angles and close ups so had to be able to repeat it over and over. Let me know what you think, any advice is much appreciated!
One From the Board (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=po-w03hpLvs#ws)
Just a quick one of the board, not a very hard problem as was more interested in angles and close ups so had to be able to repeat it over and over. Let me know what you think, any advice is much appreciated!
One From the Board (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=po-w03hpLvs#ws)
preferred the ned video of the Brad Pit jump :lol:
we have to give credit to N-Feel for visualising the problem. ;D
I heard jacobjacob actually did that the other day - first ascent?!
:-\
preferred the ned video of the Brad Pit jump :lol:
we have to give credit to N-Feel for visualising the problem. ;D
Always worth a repost:
NED attempts a new eliminate on BradPit (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1feGL4CFDf0#)
This video is good, it's got jacob doing the brad pit eliminate.
This video is good, it's got jacob doing the brad pit eliminate.
Scroll up.....
Just need the TanMan link now, A.
Iron Man into Buccaneer could be interesting.
This is only in 'non quality' due the drive to the crag start and tripod filming, the climbing however is total quality; Mick Adams showing us all how it's done at Porth Ysgo....
Porth Ysgo Bouldering (http://vimeo.com/19087630)
exported to Quicktime before uploading to Vimeo which has reduced the quality massively. What would be the best way to do this? I've a copy of FCP so will be using that from now on.....
It was shot at HD on a HV30
Apologies for my inability to embed properly - what do I do to get rid of the http mumbo jumbo?
Is that graffiti chalk or scratched? LAME
good to see all the variations
Is that graffiti chalk or scratched? LAME
No, but there is a version where I drink 4 cans of Super and rest in the sunshine for a few hours. A couple of mats makes this a lot easier.
Just been passed some info on what that graffiti might be
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HWDP (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HWDP)
HWDP or ChWDP (read ha-voo-de-pe) is a frequently used acronym of a Polish vulgar phrase chuj w dupę policji, meaning literally a dick up the police's ass
I went with Tennent's Super because it says "strong lager" on the tin; and also because I like it of course.
I went with Tennent's Super because it says "strong lager" on the tin; and also because I like it of course.
The truly discerning gent always chooses a can of "Spesh". Oi, two's up mate!
Greggs are successful and treat their staff well. It's got to be a cover for something.
:lol:
This makes me feel very weak, hopefully this guy climbs 8B+
This makes me feel very weak, hopefully this guy climbs 8B+
not one of mine, but some quality non-quality
Climbing Barbados (http://vimeo.com/21673319)
Made this for my buddy, any thoughts?
Holy crap good fall, did you not wind yourself?
my latest variation on The Roof.
Holy crap good fall, did you not wind yourself?
Nice one, but aren't you meant to match the last hold?
I have no idea and am just winding you up.
Nice one, but aren't you meant to match the last hold?
I have no idea and am just winding you up.
Thanks, no i don't think so. In all the videos I watched people drop down to undercut with right and then place left hand in sharp jug with left, then drop off.
Nice one, but aren't you meant to match the last hold?
I have no idea and am just winding you up.
Mr Welford puts lazy old skoolers (and most youngsters!) to shame:
http://www.twitvid.com/videos/truegit (http://www.twitvid.com/videos/truegit)
:o :bow: :strongbench:
Good to see you are settling in well. Is the camera on the piss for the ringpiece clip? Don't recall the Pebble Groove slab on the calf being that steep?
You can always rely on Millso to lower the tone of anything.
Someone tell mike psyche that he's too strong.
How was end of the road? Jamie
How was end of the road? Jamie
It was terrible, really terrible. You'd have hated it.
How to take a load of seemingly well shot footage of two very strong climbers in a beautiful place and edit the fuck out of it until it's practically unwatchable.
Not sure where this belongs
Show pony. How many times is that?
I thought exactly the same thing, a proper challenge.
or downclimb hymen and then do it.
I didn't say it wasn't?
I was just replying to GCW.
Nice :) what did yuo think of Conies?
Nice :) what did yuo think of Conies?
I really liked it actually. Good dynamic problems and the rock is much better than rumoured. Id go back definately :)
Yeh - youre not wrong. seemed harder than the other ones. Brilliant place though. In the scheme of things some of the best "low grade" problms on peak lime.
Didn't get up Conie Island Elephant though - hard throw move for 7a+ on that one!
That problem at the start going across the roof felt as hard as Souvenir to me Lore. Looks warm too! 8)that's very interesting Rich.
Probably the best highball circa font7a thing in the area
it shut all of us down apart from Dolph!... that's natural, Dolph and I are in the same league, climbing wise. innit? :whistle:
Nice one, never thought that first arete in the vid would get another visit! Did you do a harder variation on it or did we just get the grade wrong? Looks like you pulled some decent new stuff out of that area too, good work. Asbo Pops is a cool problem but I think the flake might come off soon/this winter - felt and sounded quite bad last time I was there....
Quite pleased with this effort - it was very murky yesterday
TwOinAday (http://vimeo.com/28812329)
TwOinAday (http://vimeo.com/28812329)
My word, I don't even know where to start.....
TwOinAday (http://vimeo.com/28812329)
My word, I don't even know where to start.....
Word.
The tick marks?
The music?
The down the trousers shot?
TwOinAday (http://vimeo.com/28812329)
My word, I don't even know where to start.....
Word.
The tick marks?
The music?
The down the trousers shot?
Yeah, that would be a good start
TwOinAday (http://vimeo.com/28812329)
My word, I don't even know where to start.....
Word.
The tick marks?
The music?
The down the trousers shot?
Yeah, that would be a good start
Did he shout at his penis after doing an 8a? Maybe that's where I'm going wrong.
West Side Story (http://vimeo.com/32340253)
TwOinAday (http://vimeo.com/28812329)
My word, I don't even know where to start.....
Word.
The tick marks?
The down the trousers shot?
Yeah, that would be a good start
Did he shout at his penis after doing an 8a? Maybe that's where I'm going wrong.
did he say "Mamma!" when his foot popped at 2:22?
The music?
A tricky one plucked from today's clag at Blackstone (http://peakbouldering.info/crags/128).
Fridge Hugger, 7B+, Blackstone Edge (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8CebBxq3pc#ws)
A tricky one plucked from today's clag at Blackstone (http://peakbouldering.info/crags/128).
Fridge Hugger, 7B+, Blackstone Edge (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8CebBxq3pc#ws)
:) nice one. Method 1 made good use of the knees. Which I like to see :)
Watch Marc le Menestrel at 11:50 float effortlessly up a font 8A. In 1993.
My first attempt at a quick bouldering video. A few problems above Millstone.
[Climbing Dance
Some more Churnet action from over the weekend, think the place is top notch!
Cheers leeroy, shoot with a Nikon d3100 with the kit lense or preferably an E series 50mm/f1.4 lense. Really impressed with the quality! Simple Simon was actually shot on a compact sony as it was a bit of a suprise send, hence the clipped start.
That's what I was looking for, not the speedos one though.[Climbing Dance
Didn't Patrick Berhault used to do similar stuff? Sure I've seen a video.
Amazing...who needs google!
Stallion and I watched them in Cham cinema about then too...small world.
Don't forget outfit. Speedos/denim/leather/lycra...all get bonus pointsStallion and I watched them in Cham cinema about then too...small world.
Pissed off with the weather and tired of expensive crap lager too?
The comp is a genius idea. Two tier scoring system, one for ticking prob, one for artistic interpretation.
Looks Chilly
There's also the version that traverses the face on pockets via a (avoidable) rose move which is quite a bit harder due to lack of footholds.
That's the one - no footholds and lots of unpleasant match moves on bad holds? I occassionally have a crack before giving up in disgust and doing something supposedly harder! So, is it just horrendously undergraded or is there a knack?
I don't think we have a buildering vids section :)
there are very few moves actually executed, and a lot of swearing.That sounds like my climbing style
this is how I climbed at the roof with 2 kg on!!!
warning: there are very few moves actually executed, and a lot of swearing.
2 KG (http://vimeo.com/35023221)
really surprised 2kg makes that much difference to someone who is so strong. just goes to show what a limiting factor weight can be.After Xmas,
Sheesh, Lore!
You got any skin left?
and 5 kg?;D
Did you re-foam that pad, Lagers, or has it been OK without?
:lol: is that your orgasm face?
Did you re-foam that pad, Lagers, or has it been OK without?
not re-filled
I use it for ground cover with other mat(s) on top or under to level it and provide more padding
It is an excellent mat for assissting with transporting children to the crag - there is so much pad sticking up above shoulder/head level that a child on my shoulders can recline comfortably and safely. I was quoted £49 for a sheet of the dense foam to fit, but have managed without. It got a fair bit of use over the summer as a baby/child mat in the garden.
:lol: is that your orgasm face?
you mean you can't remember?
I think its all being kept quiet at the moment until possible access issues are sorted.
Looks like a lovely place left with some enormous tick marks! But then judging by their taste in music, subtle isn't their forte.
I plan to balloon to the boulders tomorrow.
some potential for bouldering development on the Greek island if TinosIf by "some" you mean practically limitless potential than yes there is. Quite amusing to see a video where I have done quite a few of the problems.
Its not bouldering... but it is climbing
our first attempt.
thoughts?
Louis and Mark go climbing (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eoO22z9ZmO8#ws)
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La Belle Forêt 2012 - Volume 1 (http://vimeo.com/36051857)
Hopefully have three volumes as this contains footage form first four days of a two week trip.
Warning contains driving to the country footage...
Nice James, fucking impressed you topped out Brad Pit in the snow!
I'm sorry but Jacob's sequence on Brass Monkeys is DEFINITELY cheating, I suppose he made up for it by doing Captain Hook, is there any footage of the long-limbed one on that trying not to bum-dab?
its clearly beards for power (http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTFF1wNjs6rh1DfatKZNSuQ4tkqVi22VFAB4gCGYwA9GiTF6Gia83xHtCo)
me tooits clearly beards for power (http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTFF1wNjs6rh1DfatKZNSuQ4tkqVi22VFAB4gCGYwA9GiTF6Gia83xHtCo)
Wish I could say its worked for me :'(
me too
ahah! grande Ben, I know him!!! strong guy with a world of pristine boulders for his own pleasure. lucky guy.
i assume the grade of freak brothers is in response to the discussion on qbv's thread? if not its a fairly impressive downgrade :o
Amazing soundtrack.
An Attempt at 'Rhythm' (http://vimeo.com/36827794)
I sem to remember someone requesting this:
Le Prou (http://vimeo.com/37202454)
Forgot to mention that all film credits do indeed go to cowboyhat productionsI sem to remember someone requesting this:
Le Prou (http://vimeo.com/37202454)
A fine hour for all concerned. Cheers Jim!
Brad Pit 7c+ (http://vimeo.com/37262361)
yyfy :2thumbsup:
i think i saw you in there on sunday and you were looking like you were getting close.
a fine effort sir and all the better for having to put in the effort :clap2:
Yes good effort. I like the fact that you looked like you had absolutely no chance of doing it on day 1!
ahhh i thought i recognised you from your vids.I know, when not dangling from a Beastmaker I look different!!!
ahhh i thought i recognised you from your vids.I know, when not dangling from a Beastmaker I look different!!!
;D
Thanks beast,
Hope the grit will be dry tomorrow!!!
On another subject, james cruised that guy...
I sem to remember someone requesting this:
Le Prou (http://vimeo.com/37202454)
A fine hour for all concerned. Cheers Jim!
I'm one of the illest brothers known to man
but if you don't understand, see I'm a grown man
And I stand 5'8" and 3 quarters
giving orders to my squadron cuz I'm like the sergeant
or general but let me keep this minimal.......
Some bits from the last few days:
Three Grit Days (http://vimeo.com/37837236)
...yeah, I know, but I've never made a video before and someone may get some beta out of it.
Oi! I'm almost 5'9" I'll have you know.
on the original footage of Life in a Radioactive Dustbin I'm singing Brown Girl in the Ring quite clearly...
Met up with Duma at Burbage South on Thursday and managed to find something he coudn't do, (Attitude Inspector) unfortunately it was only because he's a short arse. He then continued to do everything else in about 3 goes. Unfortunately missed Duma's tick of desparete on a severely bruised ankle but still a grand day out.
I need to find something steeper to burn him off!
Nice. Need to get a few pads out to have a go at that. Isn't there some footage somewhere of nike air falling off this and rolling about 50 ft down the hil?
A Gritstone Year
1.27. great film.
A Gritstone Year (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=10D_EeXvSYI#)
1.27. great film.
A Gritstone Year (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=10D_EeXvSYI#)
1.27. great film.
Those were the days.
A Gritstone Year (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=10D_EeXvSYI#)
1.27. great film.
Those were the days.
1.27 is me soloing sorb.
I agree, pretty inspiring stuff.
Was the St Bees meet vid a Beardown Production? is it still available anywhere?
in a session?Indeed, chuffed.
looks like you've got gas in the tankOnly while its cold enough for weaklings to shine - will be back to give Full Power a proper go at the weekend, but then the clocks'll go forward and I'll be relegated for the summer by the campus monkeys.
TwoThree questions to the boulder central send train posse (choo choo).
1. Will I have to wear a red bandanna/headband/sweatband to climb at BoulderCentral?
2. Is the background muzak at BC at similar BPM's?
3. Can I get free entry to BoulderCentral for mentioning the name (BoulderCentral) more times than in your BoulderCentral post/video?
;)
Wow that video has really taken me back to the post 1 page 1 origins of this thread.
Wow that video has really taken me back to the post 1 page 1 origins of this thread.
complete absence of quality.
...flight of the bumblebee by Mozart...:spank:
...flight of the bumblebee by Mozart...:spank:
As any fule kno it's by that well-known E4/5 Rimsky-Korsakov.
The other day somebody suggested to me that Jeff Buckley wrote Hallelujah :slap:
Little video from Glen Nevis and Rannoch Moor
:oops: skim reading again., damn work getting in the way!
Blocs à Albarracin (http://vimeo.com/39685921)
Chilled out. Contender for worst spotter award towards the end.
Twin Springs Bouldering (http://vimeo.com/39852076)
That last problem looks fuckin' excellent.
Definition of non-quality but moving pictures nonetheless
Anston via my mobile (http://vimeo.com/39969932)
Seriously, do you think walking on (or sitting next to) the railway line is a good idea? Either for your prospects of remaining alive, not being done for tresspass, or the prospects of not getting climbers a bad name/fucking up access?
Quote
Seriously, do you think walking on (or sitting next to) the railway line is a good idea? Either for your prospects of remaining alive, not being done for tresspass, or the prospects of not getting climbers a bad name/fucking up access?
point taken, video removed
i thought proposals was 6c rather than 7c, probs wrong though.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=154843 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=154843)
Good vids regardless :)
Dans la Forêt - TrailerIf you're putting out trailers now it'd better be! ;)
I'm hoping to put the full video out end of April.
It may even be good enough to sneak into the quality bouldering thread, the standard of the problems are certainly up to scratch!
i thought proposals was 6c rather than 7c, probs wrong though.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=154843 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=154843)
Good vids regardless :)
172 cm, 65 kg.
Right then, it has taken me a considerably long time to flip my video 90 degree's. I'm now happy.
So, this is a thread for anyone with bad quality bouldering video's.
http://vimeo.com/40934028 (http://vimeo.com/40934028)
An average first attempt on windows movie maker but a really good problem-
https://vimeo.com/40934028
nice. splash of red looks incredible! love the tunes too
Unlike the Murphy's, Dense was bitter. :)
Good stuff Will, was the bloke hanging off on Great Flake taking pics?
I think small dogs could be the 'driving to the crag' shot feature for 2012 ;)
Who's the hunk you filmed repeating it? :-*
Adam and Dan did it. Stunning line.
Adam and Dan did it. Stunning line.
Ow, ow, ow...
Nice. Glad you got it. I was the random who came across and asked about the problems. Looks like I should have stuck around for that spot!
Ow, ow, ow...
Indeed. I still wont be able to sleep on my back tonight because my ass is too sore!
Nice. Glad you got it. I was the random who came across and asked about the problems. Looks like I should have stuck around for that spot!
Ha, yeah, so much for my "no I should be fine without"! You have a good day?
Not sure why it won't embed?
day release for a family funeral etc.
day release for a family funeral etc.
Who do you want taking out?
I might know someone who knows someone who could do you a deal
last night's foray, feat. abarro using his knee of all things
That camera's giving you some really nice colours there - really vivid..
bit of a yyfy last night.
Really liked that one Nathan! Nice mix of problems, colours are great (new camera), great music choice and obviously some effort put into finding some good angles that really add interest. Awesome!+1!!!
Had a brill day sampling houndkirk yesterday
Sweltering/wet Anston. Anyone got any tips on filming light coloured limestone in the sun, no matter what I try it looks like they're crimping along a line of clouds?
I'm no expert on video, but from a photography pov contrast on pale rocks in woodland is often unmanageable in full sunshine. A polariser won't help as they generally increase contrast. The gear options would be either a massive diffuser (cloud ideally), or a massive reflector, or some fill lighting, but 99% of the time trying to recompose is a better option - ie move either fully into the shade or sun.
Just dont climb on limestone ;) simples.
this is a small video of the problem I climbed the other day. I took it with my iPad and I don't know how to edit it, so I tell you that nothing happens until 50 seconds in. hope you like the climbing.
Lipgunner on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/42883150)
That vid is totally overexposed, can you not adjust anything on your camera.
Good send though, surprised it wasn't a complete grease fest if you did it recently.
That vid is totally overexposed, can you not adjust anything on your camera.
Good send though, surprised it wasn't a complete grease fest if you did it recently.
Pretty pleased with this one - the soundtrack, my climbing, and a good day out in a great location:
The incredible-shrinking boulder is my least favourite phenomenon
The incredible-shrinking boulder is my least favourite phenomenon
Mine too, especially when spotted from a looong way away.
To be honest both of those situations seem to happen when you are trying to climb at the established boulders in those respective areas :P
trudge, trudge, trudge,............., it's a bloody shrub, but wait a minute what about that other..................
It's amazing how long you can go on like that
A video of a few problems at Ogmore By Sea in South Wales. Lovely little area, well worth a days visit. Some big lines in the trench, and probably some hard stuff left to be done.
3 at Ogmore on Vimeo on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/42050173)
Him - You know that tiny bit of rock that looked like nothing? I think it's the top of something.
Me - Is that a...?
Him - Cave!
Me - Flippin 'eck, what are the chances?
Very true. But it's worth it for that one time in a hundred when this happens
To be honest both of those situations seem to happen when you are trying to climb at the established boulders in those respective areas :P
Nudas Barrows on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/43848617)
Surprisingly dry considering
sigh... one middle aged punter trying hard in a cellar, versus nice girls climbing nice lines in the sun with friends...
my video has been crushed.
Am I the only one who doesn't - in general - like slow music on climbing videos? Mina's and Shauna's need something more upbeat next time!barrows you have no soul
I have been on the chase for V11 for many months now. This one felt like the one for me. I first tried it about a year ago but then I gave it a break over the Aussie summer to concentrate on getting stronger. I came back to this a few times but this time I figured out beta for the crux move. I then brushed up the holds and placed my fingertips onto the cool rocky ground to lower my skin temperature. I pulled on and I sent it!!are you nige's younger brother?
My First V11, So You Think You Can Dance, Kindergarten, Grampians (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=THArPtTA8bk#)
I liked the one on Mina's vid of mind matters, and I like them some other times (e.g. the fall out boy cover on between the trees and the track you put on the curbar vid, though those are both a bit more upbeat) but for me the others didn't work. All a bit foundry music choice for me, it's climbing not a funeral. But then my favourite videos are usually the LT11/big up style climbing pr0n.
I have been on the chase for V11 for many months now. This one felt like the one for me. I first tried it about a year ago but then I gave it a break over the Aussie summer to concentrate on getting stronger. I came back to this a few times but this time I figured out beta for the crux move. I then brushed up the holds and placed my fingertips onto the cool rocky ground to lower my skin temperature. I pulled on and I sent it!!are you nige's younger brother?
My First V11, So You Think You Can Dance, Kindergarten, Grampians (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=THArPtTA8bk#)
I have been on the chase for V11 for many months now. This one felt like the one for me. I first tried it about a year ago but then I gave it a break over the Aussie summer to concentrate on getting stronger. I came back to this a few times but this time I figured out beta for the crux move. I then brushed up the holds and placed my fingertips onto the cool rocky ground to lower my skin temperature. I pulled on and I sent it!!
My First V11, So You Think You Can Dance, Kindergarten, Grampians (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=THArPtTA8bk#)
]My First V11, So You Think You Can Dance, Kindergarten, Grampians
A Good Morning at Anston Stones on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/44387995)
Gramatik - In this whole world
His stuff seems to be good climbing vid music, it's been on LT11 and Paul Robinson vids
Who'd have thought that there was an exact copy of Caseg Fraith hiding up on the Derwent Edges?!
http://vimeo.com/m/44511287 (http://vimeo.com/m/44511287)
Please someone have done it.Sorry. Can't help with that, but here's a couple of vids.
Crocodile Racer (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IYkH-uRt1nw#ws)
We've already seen Shauna and Mina doing Mind Matters Dave :P
We've already seen Shauna and Mina doing Mind Matters Dave :P
Are you saying you would prefer to see two blondes then me Chris?! :'(
Crocodile Racer (http://)I'd climb that for a dollar!
Hartland on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/45501081)
Hartland on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/45501081)
Didn't know Ed Byrne was a climber!!
Hartland on Vimeo
Not sure if this belongs here. It amused/horrified my wife in equal measure...
Daddy Daycare on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/45600726)
Not sure if this belongs here. It amused/horrified my wife in equal measure...
Daddy Daycare on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/45600726)
Does that help with winding? Him not you.
Strap the dog to you as well you beardy punter :P
Ps. Good skills in managing not to bump his head in the rung at every pull up!!!He learnt to lean forward pretty quickly...
From Last Monday's day out.
http://www.youtube.com/embed/sdgOig-XG4o (http://www.youtube.com/embed/sdgOig-XG4o)
It's an incredible location, but some gnarly talus, so falls have to be well padded and spotted.
It wasn't actually me, but my friend who's been developing the area fell on the opening move of a problem he had already done, he fell maybe 2 feet and caught his forearm just below his elbow. He was really psyched to show me the area, and it was our 3rd problem when he fell. We patched it up as best we could and drove to the nearest open urgent care center where he ended up with a bunch of stitches and a nice scar.
Is it Basalt?
Powerhumps (Hard Way) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/46509631)
Great conditions this evening at the Tor.
http://island.io/aDkzRXyM (http://island.io/aDkzRXyM)
http://island.io/aDkzRXyM (http://island.io/aDkzRXyM)
surely a quality video that!!!!
http://island.io/aDkzRXyM (http://island.io/aDkzRXyM)
surely a quality video that!!!!
When you expect nothing, and end up standing on the top, it is one giant wtf, and a big question mark hangs out above your head for all kinds of days and nights.
Nah, rock is too ugly by Rocklands standards ;)http://island.io/aDkzRXyM (http://island.io/aDkzRXyM)
surely a quality video that!!!!
http://island.io/aDkzRXyM (http://island.io/aDkzRXyM)
surely a quality video that!!!!
:2thumbsup:
Staminaband 8A on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/47082715)
Really nice!
How long/short do your crashpads last, by the way? Some nasty landing there!!!
Good effort!
Set this problem a week ago, could barely do the moves in isolation... Felt good today!!!
time4lime on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/47772114)
Short bouldering film made by my brother of me climbing Ben's Roof.
Excellent!!!
Should be in the "Quality" thread.
I know what you mean Sasquatch but I think there can be good fluff and bad fluff and I think Pedra's is normally the good sort. I feel like I'm getting a little glimpse in to a local scene and don't mind in all remains a little enigmatic and not quite defined.
And the climbers always seem to be trying really hard, which is always fun to watch.
I know what you mean Sasquatch but I think there can be good fluff and bad fluff and I think Pedra's is normally the good sort. I feel like I'm getting a little glimpse in to a local scene and don't mind in all remains a little enigmatic and not quite defined.
And the climbers always seem to be trying really hard, which is always fun to watch.
little video of a short roadtrip earlier this summer, criticisms welcome, only my second video:Good video. Effort carting three pads up to Jason's roof!
little video of a short roadtrip earlier this summer, criticisms welcome, only my second video:
Tour du North on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/48426399)
little video of a short roadtrip earlier this summer, criticisms welcome, only my second video:Good video. Effort carting three pads up to Jason's roof!
made me laugh: "living in a fiesta"
little video of a short roadtrip earlier this summer, criticisms welcome, only my second video:Video resolution too low
haircut needed
+1!
I was going to say last night - you clearly need to tip your barber more generously!
;)
haircut needed
+1!
I was going to say last night - you clearly need to tip your barber more generously!
;)
Thought the movie was good especially bit at Vitruvian Man, made me want to go climbing at those places again.What do you find best when said climb is a project, hence no name/grade until after the send? List it as a project, then name/grade after sendage?
One problem i have with bouldering videos in general is the convention of showing numerous attempts on a problem followed by the name and grade of the problem and then the successful ascent, or worse the name and grade of the route staying on screen during the ascent. It totally ruins any will s/he won't s/he tension plus i want to know what we are dealing with as soon we arrive at the problem.
Thought the movie was good especially bit at Vitruvian Man, made me want to go climbing at those places again.What do you find best when said climb is a project, hence no name/grade until after the send? List it as a project, then name/grade after sendage?
One problem i have with bouldering videos in general is the convention of showing numerous attempts on a problem followed by the name and grade of the problem and then the successful ascent, or worse the name and grade of the route staying on screen during the ascent. It totally ruins any will s/he won't s/he tension plus i want to know what we are dealing with as soon we arrive at the problem.
One problem i have with bouldering videos in general is the convention of showing numerous attempts on a problem followed by the name and grade of the problem and then the successful ascent, or worse the name and grade of the route staying on screen during the ascent. It totally ruins any will s/he won't s/he tension plus i want to know what we are dealing with as soon we arrive at the problem.
What do you find best when said climb is a project, hence no name/grade until after the send? List it as a project, then name/grade after sendage?
I think title: project- proposed grade ? then attempts would be fine. Name comes after ascent unless it is already named. Was quite relieved in video of that Finnish guy doing his 8b+ when the music changed and he fell off again. If films do what you expect them to do you are already bored because of the inevitability of it all. Playing with convention is always fun.
Maybe show the proper ascent with name and grade first, then all the failed attempts afterwards?
Oooh, Felicity Kendal :dance1:
Maybe show the proper ascent with name and grade first, then all the failed attempts afterwards?
This will be phase 1.
Phase 2 will be when there is a random mix of successful and failed attempts - with a different random order for each problem.. to keep the viewer guessing.
Phase 3 will be a random mix of failed and successful attempts from different problems. To keep the viewer guessing even more. This could be worked even further by having a differerent soundtrack for each problem and to jump the audio when cutting from problem to problem.. and then sometimes not...!! Kind of video boot-strapping.
Phase 4 will follow the lines of phase 3, but include random driving to the crag, crag dog, eating, drinking coffee, surfing on bouldering mats, eating McDonalds shots etc...
Phase 5 will feature an episode of The Good Life.
Hmmm, I wasn't being prescriptive by the way, i was just expressing a personal preference. Sometimes i come over as a bit of an arse on here. Sorry.
Hmmm, I wasn't being prescriptive by the way, i was just expressing a personal preference. Sometimes i come over as a bit of an arse on here. Sorry.
(I'm patenting the P-Rob bum cam)Wouldn't bother. Tried using him on Goliath, cheeks just kept sliding off the sides.
(I'm patenting the P-Rob bum cam)Wouldn't bother. Tried using him on Goliath, cheeks just kept sliding off the sides.
Having the most wad points doesn't make someone the greatest either
Hmmm, I wasn't being prescriptive by the way, i was just expressing a personal preference. Sometimes i come over as a bit of an arse on here. Sorry.
What are people's thoughts on Crane usage?
What are people's thoughts on Crane usage?
Any wading birds are fine by me.
What are people's thoughts on Crane usage?
Any wading birds are fine by me.
What about mini-hamburgers?
What are people's thoughts on Crane usage?
No it's not.
No, get's me too!
till now ...
American Grit on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/48900545)Not climbed here, but have at some other spots in this area of pensylvania, and it is deffo GRIT, not anywhere near the quality of the Peak etc, this is sharper and more scritly but still GRIT
No it's not.
And every time I see it I get mildly irritated by that apostrophe! :)
American Grit on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/48900545)Not climbed here, but have at some other spots in this area of pensylvania, and it is deffo GRIT, not anywhere near the quality of the Peak etc, this is sharper and more scritly but still GRIT
No it's not.
Fair enough. In the vid, apart from the slopey bit and one slab, nothing else looked very much like UK grit - but I suppose it doesn't necessarily have to.
Fair enough. In the vid, apart from the slopey bit and one slab, nothing else looked very much like UK grit - but I suppose it doesn't necessarily have to.
cmon andi_e lets hear a Geologists view...?
Fair enough. In the vid, apart from the slopey bit and one slab, nothing else looked very much like UK grit - but I suppose it doesn't necessarily have to.
cmon andi_e lets hear a Geologists view...?
Oh the apostrophe irony!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Oh the apostrophe irony!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Sorry to disappoint but I'm not that clever... ;)
Geologists
cmon andi_e lets hear a Geologists view...?
:D I shouldve sat back and taken everyone's praise's
The term "Millstone Grit" is an informal description of Namurian, coarse, poorly-sorted, deltaic, feldspar-rich sandstones found in the UK which have been previously economically exploited for use in milling. "Gritstone" is similarly an informal description of coarse sandstones applied (usually by climbers) to similar rock types all around the world. Therefore, technically, it isn't grit, but neither is Stanage, Brimham, Almscliff, Caley, Burbage, Cratcliffe, Shaftoe, Golsborough, Earl, Thorn...
After years of thinking "There's a sitter", "There's no sitter", going there, trying the move, not leaving the ground, going back again, breaking a hold, etc. etc., today I finished it.
No more.
Il Manfano sit on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/49111889)
today I finished it.
No more.
;D now I understand...today I finished it.
No more.
Not quite ;)
Some mid-grade pottering at Naughty Crag Y the other day:
Stanton in the Woods - Mid-Grade Circuit on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/49560935)
Some of these should be in quality vids so to restore non quality order....
http://vimeo.com/m/49698787 (http://vimeo.com/m/49698787)
Can't embed as on my phone.
As soon as Mrs rodma told us she had done this, Diane fancied having a look because it sounded good ... and it was.
Bleau's Art on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/50013296)
The moves are really cool! The sit adds at least a grade and could quite easily be 8A. The starting pocket is nearly always gopping wet though :/
Looks like an amazing spot and great climbing. Approach looks cruxy. Daring to give it a number yet; hardest problem in Alaska?
Effort beast!!!Thx - I remember thinking the same thing of your recent sending.....
You make it look easy. Impressive.
12 years!!!! Good effort, I thought the video would end with success :'( keep on going, awesome setting.The camera battery died missing the send(it was about 2C and windy, which is great for friction and crap for batteries), but I had already started putting the video together before I sent so I figured I'd just put it. I lied the way it turned out.
Thanks, but Your problem is another order of difficulty I'm afraid! :)Effort beast!!!Thx - I remember thinking the same thing of your recent sending.....
You make it look easy. Impressive.
https://vimeo.com/51819889
Jason's Roof is bloody fantastic.
Nice shots, some very reminiscent of Stick It!
Doesn't look like a non-dangerous fall to me!Tell that to Michele!!!
Butch Cassidy V12 • Eliot Stephens • 2nd Ascent on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/52480509)
Thanks. This is what you want:- http://27crags.com/crags/dinas-rock (http://27crags.com/crags/dinas-rock):thumbsup:
Oh my god my ears....
A masterclass in highball grit pedalling ;)
That is a good day! Did you get The Storm?
Any beta would be great!
Some attempts on Director's Cut (8a+?) in Parisella's, also footage of Broken Heart (7c+) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/53279856)
A lack of footage due to rain, busyness and the battery running out, but it shows enough to disgust all kneebar haters.
Any beta would be great!
Have you tried heel instead of toe? (With the heel) I found the key was not to look too soon - as soon as you look at the hold you're going to it seems to force you out. Try to delay looking at it for as long as possible.
cheers yeah I briefly tried getting the heel on but couldnt figure out the feet to get it on, was moaning its too bunched but if you've done it i've got no excuse.....As the others have said re the heel and not turning head too early. I found it easiest to get the heel up by matching the hold you have with your RH, pull up a bit, then throw it up.
cheers yeah I briefly tried getting the heel on but couldnt figure out the feet to get it on, was moaning its too bunched but if you've done it i've got no excuse.....As the others have said re the heel and not turning head too early. I found it easiest to get the heel up by matching the hold you have with your RH, pull up a bit, then throw it up.
I found the key was not to look too soon - as soon as you look at the hold you're going to it seems to force you out. Try to delay looking at it for as long as possible.
Good stuff, but can you give things names for those of us not intimately familiar with every square foot of peak grit?
Good stuff, but can you give things names for those of us not intimately familiar with every square foot of peak grit?oh yes, bit lazy that, I have on the vimeo description.
Good stuff, but can you give things names for those of us not intimately familiar with every square foot of peak grit?
Better still, use their actual names rather than making them up. :tease:
Good stuff, but can you give things names for those of us not intimately familiar with every square foot of peak grit?
Better still, use their actual names rather than making them up. :tease:
what do you mean Slackers? :shrug: (can't go on vimeo at work)
Doll Tor on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/54292525)
late summer visit
I still, in all my yrs, have no idea why people would go through the trouble videoing themselves without a first move. Bizarre.
I'd say 'an' hour, as I would say 'an' historian. :off:
Peewee I take it the guy on souvenir is tall? When you go back to do vitruvian man from the start you could spot Michele doing delusions from the start. I still, in all my yrs, have no idea why people would go through the trouble videoing themselves without a first move. Bizarre.
Nice little vid tho
Actually felt less height dependant than trying to bump again into the small pocket (and a much nicer sequence). C'mon Dense everyone hates tall people but this guy looks innocent.
I'd say 'an' hour, as I would say 'an' historian. :off:As I suspected! Stupid cow. She made me spend 18yrs thinking I couldn't speak the Queens England!
:agree: although it breaks the common rule because 'h' isn't a vowel (but then rules were made to be broken just as boulder problems were put up without knee-pads).
Peewee I take it the guy on souvenir is tall? When you go back to do vitruvian man from the start you could spot Michele doing delusions from the start. I still, in all my yrs, have no idea why people would go through the trouble videoing themselves without a first move. Bizarre.
Nice little vid tho
Hi Dense,
The guy climbing Souvenir is me, im only 5ft 8 but got long arms. Where is the actual start on Vitruvian? both hands on the jug on the side?
So many animals, so little time
Weasels can be bunched-up and look short one minute but they can bust out a bit of extra lank at the next minute... Maybe Peewee is the Colneweasel?
They just inflate, we're talking overall length change here. Perhaps a slug or a leech?
Velvet Silence
Velvet Silence (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yg5Pkplv_cM#)
Whilst looking like a very good problem, Paul o'grady, I couldn't help but notice the vid says "Paul o'grady sds 7b". Can u clear this up doylo since the ascent had nothing to do with a sit start? N what's that white stuff on the ground?
Well someone with eyes would see the obvious disparity. I'm gonna go round every prob n put two little crosses on the start holds for hands like in some places, leaves out grey areas. Too many people are blending in sits n crouches.
God has never been kind Arnold
Hi Everyone,
Here's a video I made just over a year ago. It's a photo montage of my time in Australia.
Hope you all enjoy
Australia in Under 6 Minutes (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8f5l8MS-s6c#)
Hi Everyone,
Here's a video I made just over a year ago. It's a photo montage of my time in Australia.
Hope you all enjoy
Australia in Under 6 Minutes (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8f5l8MS-s6c#)
Nice. Brings back some good memories. ...Hang on, does this mean you are back in Blighty? Thought you were still out there?
And is M83 now as cliche as driving to the crag in climbing videos?
Supertanker 8B+, Fontainebleau on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/55958694)
A quick compilation with a few of the best things I've done since I moved up to Sheffield in late September.
https://picasaweb.google.com/andyandjo.d/UKClimbing#5797405900137986450A quick compilation with a few of the best things I've done since I moved up to Sheffield in late September.
Minute 1,36. The essence of our discipline. A guys sticks the crux of a problem, and his friend breaks into a smile.
These are the fucking things I want to see in a video, not some sausage fest cheerleading just for the camera.
How many times have I thought "Please fall" when a friend - that I thought weaker - was about to climb a problem before me - the supposed crusher of crushers.
My hypocrisy is appalling, and I feel ashamed about my feelings, but videos like this can purify you.
Thank you.
Nibble,A quick compilation with a few of the best things I've done since I moved up to Sheffield in late September.
Minute 1,36. The essence of our discipline. A guys sticks the crux of a problem, and his friend breaks into a smile.
These are the fucking things I want to see in a video, not some sausage fest cheerleading just for the camera.
How many times have I thought "Please fall" when a friend - that I thought weaker - was about to climb a problem before me - the supposed crusher of crushers.
My hypocrisy is appalling, and I feel ashamed about my feelings, but videos like this can purify you.
Thank you.
Superb! Should be in Qual vids..
Not sure if this has been posted before but see how many crimes against bouldering you can spot.
Not sure if this has been posted before but see how many crimes against bouldering you can spot.
England_empire1 on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/18588903)
Cheers guys, really glad it got a good response. Was really nice to get the chance to film some others for this one too, think it helps the video a lot rather than having another self promoting 'ben show'. Also i ran out of American gangster rap dubstep remixes so had to do with these songs :punk:
Morocco Quartzite Bloc FA. on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/57017785)Been down the gym Fiend?
Climbed in the last 10 minutes of light after 11 days of trad climbing (single and multipitch), and actually underrated and worth ***.
A quick compilation with a few of the best things I've done since I moved up to Sheffield in late September.
Enjoyed that little vid.
Ben I think we met over summer at the Tor my girlf (Ella) was doing Bens Rf at the same as you, did you get it in the end?
What's it been like having the peak on your doorstep now?
Nice. Yes ella got it, then worked on the extension start but cave got damp.Enjoyed that little vid.
Ben I think we met over summer at the Tor my girlf (Ella) was doing Bens Rf at the same as you, did you get it in the end?
What's it been like having the peak on your doorstep now?
Cheers. Ye pretty sure that was me. Went away for a month in august then never got back to it, too much grit to go for at the moment so will be back in the spring! Did Ella do it? Looked very close.
Its great, can't get enough really. So much more to do!
I can't watch anything with Alex in anymore, he's too tall to be taken seriously
Warning: May contain profanity
Warning: May contain profanity
Warning: May contain profanity
woah, did you get back on it?
Warning: May contain profanityIs that Spare Rib?
Warning: May contain profanityIs that Spare Rib?
Brutal Arete aka Spare Rib, call it what you want. Brilliant problem with excellent fall potential, thought you had it in the bag Chris :o
Yeah, me too, but you should never under estimate my ability to snatch defeat from the jaws of victory.:lol: Brilliant attitude. Thank you for restoring my faith. Enjoy the moves, enjoy going back to a pleasant spot, enjoy the process. I was beginning to wonder whether any boulderers had any fun anymore..
I never really get too frustrated by these things as I think you've got to accept that for every time you sketch up a problem by the skin of your teeth you're occasionally going to fall off from the top of another.
On the plus side I get to do the awesome lower moves again.
That was awful oli. Whatever music that was it should never see a speaker again
You said exactly what I was thinking Lee, only I couldn't find the energy to type it at the time.
Nice. Like to get on Trust..
great stuff, Heaven in your Hands looks impeccable.
Looks well weapon. Is there much else at giles brandrith to do?
I wish more people would clean the green. Good effort, I say. Moss grows back fast. This is pretty low impact maintenance, without which esoteric problems become less and less appealing to climb, and the well travelled classics take more of a battering.This is a fair comment.
Little sparkle looks excellent... Is it always that green
I'm not altogether convinced that the gardening on the top, nor the blanket brushing of the face, was necessary.
Shocked to discover that this gem hadn't been posted yet
Return to eatswood (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9JhVe2gNCgE#ws)
what's the problem ben's on in the preview image?
A little edit of some of my favourite problems and highballs from the last couple of months on the grit
http://youtu.be/tkO-V71lPg0 (http://youtu.be/tkO-V71lPg0)
:o 'ckinell...:agree:
Music should be an antidote to the dreary indie folksie drivel in some recent videos :ninja:
We did some punter level development up these last year
Just out of interest how much more force goes through the point of contact when you do a front lever on a hold as opposed to just dead hanging?
The Bulb on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/57898728)
Yes for sure the weight is the same. That said, to me the overall effort in the fingers is a lot greater in the front lever, mostly because of the different position they assume.Just out of interest how much more force goes through the point of contact when you do a front lever on a hold as opposed to just dead hanging?
In the static positon, the same shirley? weight is unchanged?
Beast!!!! :)
I've got it thanks. Machinedrum's a really good producer of music/animal noise fusion. Especially if you like music/animal noise fusion.
Failed dismally on Phobos @ Glenmarksie due to heat, insects, and cowardice, and did the HVS next to it. Generally haven't found it (Strathconon, rather than Strathnairn) inspiring enough to delay the journey to Wester Ross / Ardmair / Caithness.
Strathconon. on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/58178947)
Carefully chosen soundtrack to go with isolated and lonely mid-winter bouldering :).
Strong adidas look, but you need to be careful with a shirt and hat of a very similar colour. Best to go with a contrast there - if in doubt consult the colour wheel.
Result - Knocked out, chipped tooth, split chin. Ambulance trip to Carlise Hospital, sitting around for 5 hours, then taxi, train and taxi back to the car. Then 3 hour drive home!
Feel fine now, apart from embarassment and seriously damaged pride :-)
Bouldering is dangerous...
Battle scar @ 3.49
Punks Life...almost on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/58353107)QuoteResult - Knocked out, chipped tooth, split chin. Ambulance trip to Carlise Hospital, sitting around for 5 hours, then taxi, train and taxi back to the car. Then 3 hour drive home!
Feel fine now, apart from embarassment and seriously damaged pride :-)
Only just...
Nalle Hukkataival flashing Fokus, 8A+ (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zJg7l-lM1FQ#ws)
Only just...
Nalle Hukkataival flashing Fokus, 8A+ (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zJg7l-lM1FQ#ws)
Nalle certainly has a knack for falling upwards:
fbcdn video.mp4 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1OzyFf3q-5U#)
Some footage from this weekend at Porth Ysgo
Porth Ysgo on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/58405181)
Three Stars in So. Utah on Vimeo
si wilson retro flashing art nouveau (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tirSThgBEFs#)
a quick non quality vid of si pissing up the skyline beauty of a problem up the roaches
before anyone starts about all the pads,im sure si isnt going to start claiming its as the original grade.just a padded out classic
Good effort Tomtom, like the topout!
Good effort Tomtom, like the topout!
Pilgrim (8A) and Rockatrocity (7C) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/58837815)
You look hilarious with double knee bar pads!
Wall of Sound and Shine On...... on the first good day this year I reckon. :)
Sunny Stanage on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/58840611)
I couldn't figure out how to brighten it, without overexposing the background. Whats Jade?fuck knows, I meant Jasmine
What program are you using? This thread might help. (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,21258.25.html)
What program are you using? This thread might help. (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,21258.25.html)
What program are you using? This thread might help. (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,21258.25.html)
Adobe Premiere Pro CS6, layer mask looks the way.
Slackers, I know, I am trying to lose weight honest :blink:
andi_e, I'd been saving that bottle since Christmas. It's quite firey stuff.
I think it's a hard V6
Tell that to this punk
(http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG10442_1319227590.jpg)
Tell that to this punk
(http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG10442_1319227590.jpg)
https://sites.google.com/site/boulderscotland/laggani couldnt possibly comment...
crazy little thing called google.
Have you got any secrets up your sleeve?
:o
I know buildering is considered a bit deviant, but this fella has some moves
Monkey man - No comment (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cm91hh9SqXs#)
Fuck me, thats some showboating! Amazing.
Looks good but the footage blurb says its 7C. It then says it felt full value to me, then says 7B/7A+. I deal in simple matters so which of the choices above are you going to go with? Yours with intrigue,
A dense loner
Looks good but the footage blurb says its 7C. It then says it felt full value to me, then says 7B/7A+. I deal in simple matters so which of the choices above are you going to go with? Yours with intrigue,
A dense loner
I think he was saying that broken down it felt like a a 7B move into a 7A move
"felt like one super hard move followed by another that was significantly easier"
It's weird. You upload the video then pick something free on vimeo. I set it to fade but it didn't for some reason (most likely user error). I'm not sure if you can reverse the music and start again, or just mute and reload above.
On a similar theme, do most people ignore the copyright on this type of video and put on whatever they like?
It's weird. You upload the video then pick something free on vimeo. I set it to fade but it didn't for some reason (most likely user error). I'm not sure if you can reverse the music and start again, or just mute and reload above.
On a similar theme, do most people ignore the copyright on this type of video and put on whatever they like?yesno
It's weird. You upload the video then pick something free on vimeo. I set it to fade but it didn't for some reason (most likely user error). I'm not sure if you can reverse the music and start again, or just mute and reload above.
On a similar theme, do most people ignore the copyright on this type of video and put on whatever they like?yesno
Is this the forum way of expressing a 'no' whilst vigorously nodding? Or is this an unspoken topic to avoid this :worms:
Some superset beta if anyone has it one their list. Firmly in the non quality category, it's more a documentary of my philosophy of perseverance over style.
Superset, Ilkley on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/59447000)
It's weird. You upload the video then pick something free on vimeo. I set it to fade but it didn't for some reason (most likely user error). I'm not sure if you can reverse the music and start again, or just mute and reload above.
On a similar theme, do most people ignore the copyright on this type of video and put on whatever they like?yesno
Is this the forum way of expressing a 'no' whilst vigorously nodding? Or is this an unspoken topic to avoid this :worms:
I've never really looked into it, naive maybe. I assume thors hammer only comes down when you're looking to make any money from the edit/short/blockbuster
More Joe's Delights.....
David Mason Climbing in Left Fork, Joe's Valley on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/59218705)
So it wasn't gone into as deeply as i recall, just the two posts but it answers the question:
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,6407.msg347727.html#msg347727 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,6407.msg347727.html#msg347727)
They now just automatically recognise the music you've used and cite it in the byline with a link to itunes or whatever, nice touch but fuck youtube, billboarding bastards.
They now just automatically recognise the music you've used and cite it in the byline with a link to itunes or whatever, nice touch but fuck youtube, billboarding bastards.
I expect this is simply to claw back some of the vast outlay they will have made in licensing to record companies in establishing Google Music and making space for anyone with an account for 20,000 of their own tracks to be uploaded (YouTube is after all Google).
At least it costs you infinitely less than one fuck all to post and share your videos on YouTube. Quite a few people who post regularly here appear to have gone "Pro" on Vimeo I've noticed.
Whole new meaning to " you're just twisting my arm...."
How far can an arm rotate...?
Whole new meaning to " you're just twisting my arm...."
EGGCORN ALERT!!!
That's the pot calling the kettle back! You deliberately sent r-man on a wild goof-trek there.
Zarzaparrillia 8B on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/59481063)
How far can an arm rotate...?
Limehouse 7c on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/59250915)
This really needs an upgrade to QBV, a climber trying really hard at or near their limit on a scary highball, the moves are unobvious and it's difficult to see what's coming, she sets up one way then moves another, the western-like music builds to crescendo along with the shouts of encouragement, tension mounts and mounts to a gripping finale. You know the ending but it's still nervy. Pure Hollywood. Love It.
Are you guys the crew?
Jonesy send of La pelle= Brillance.
3 shaky climbs from this week. Not much style :P
A video from a 2 week trip to Swiss
You are living the life: Bishop one month, Red Rocks the next! Gah.
Really like the music, I have not listened to BoC for ages.
My first stab at a bouldering video from a trip to Red Rock last week.When's your second video, the crush-fest from Bishop, coming out?
One of the few dry problems at Anstons at the weekend.
Black Crow 7C+, Anston Stones on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/60343318)
My first stab at a bouldering video from a trip to Red Rock last week.When's your second video, the crush-fest from Bishop, coming out?
Sam's told me all about how awesome he was, it'd be nice to see the evidence..........
I know GCW at least will really appreciate the soundtrack ;D
One of the final highlights of the Scottish Winter Season...
Brin Done Before! on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/60642373)
Warning, contains:But....
- Matching vest and beanie >:(
- Bad camera angle that doesn't show the start nor position >:(
- Me prattling on about heelhooks and syke in my posh squeaky voice >:(
- I know GCW at least will really appreciate the soundtrack ;D
nice one Fiend. Turns out you have 2 pairs of trousers after all!
Was it Carcass the soundtrack BTW?
Very low quality video of a recent trip to Font.
Some easy problems at Stanage Plantation.
Stanage in the Sun (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XmyI4NWWZfI#ws)
One not-so-easy problem under the Mancunian Way.
Midnight Oil (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SQb24g4noQQ#ws)
Just spotted this vid of Mirf's Churnet roof. Looks like fingery fun.
The mentalist on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/58703813)
Some easy problems at Stanage Plantation.
Stanage in the Sun (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XmyI4NWWZfI#ws)
One not-so-easy problem under the Mancunian Way.
Midnight Oil (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SQb24g4noQQ#ws)
think the little lad must havespilled milkshat into our speakers somehow
This is my revenge....but I put on music I genuinely like. I was listening to this CD in the car on the way back and bouncing up and down to it whilst driving. Same with the death metal and drum and bass....I love it. That probably makes me a freak, but it is genuine.I liked the tune. Although i would have never used it in a climbing vid haha. But good on you for doing it and not caring. And yes i too like music that most people find unacceptable (generally Hardcore (the electronic kind) related) lol.
Pilgrimage 2nd Ascent on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/61373541)
Kneepads or not, that was well climbed. Good job. Is the footage of Malcom climbing it still knocking around? Would be nice to compare styles.Cheers
Chequers Crack without the crack (so probably easier then!)
Nice, always wondered how that climbed. Thought it went up the wall further right, but only because I never tried it. How is it for 7c, how’s it compare to Sole Power?
continue, america is a big place
continue, america is a big place
So is the internet. You try.
you clearly know exactly where it is and what it's like
That's new, the tags didn't say much when it was first up.
Dense, maybe someday you could contribute something other than smart aleck comments.
Never mind the facts when there's a witch to burn!
I got the spelling wrong didn't I, I hate the spelling of it...
Left shoulder impingment recovery climbing:
LDV only legitimate sequence. on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/61888882)
Edit: despite it's location this is a bit of a King Line too, better than Crescent Arete and all that bolleaux ;)
Good effort there!
Good effort there!
Love the brush stickhurlingthrowingpaddytantrum :)
That rababoom thing looks well weapon.
Annat & Reiff on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/62028364)
Cool geology... (trying to be uncontreversial)
My mate in prison last tuesday. Might be handy for any similarly incarcerated sixfooters needing beta:
Remergence Session (http://vimeo.com/61978482)
A fisheye (http://www.samyang-lens.co.uk/samyang-75mm-f35-umc-fisheye-mft.html), in places. I like to give it a run every now and again.
where's it from??
My mate in prison last tuesday. Might be handy for any similarly incarcerated sixfooters needing beta:
Remergence Session (http://vimeo.com/61978482)
I'm so impressed with your videos Matt I'm almost tempted to give in to the missus desire to move to Jockland. Its not that you make everthing look easy, its that you make it look like you can get up these problems even if you are fat, bald and have no technique. :great:That's quite the complement.
Anywhere in Scotland just as long as I'm still in England.
Rope & runners = quality chuffing video :rtfm: :chair: ;)
Good stuff, big falls! Did Keenus really do these shunning pads?? Fucking loon :alien:
Hate to disagree (and good effort to the FAs) but those problems all look grim as fuck to me.
Cheers Granticus, they look half-decent. Is there much else at Easdon Tor?
Hate to disagree (and good effort to the FAs) but those problems all look grim as fuck to me.
They would probably be 3 star classics in lancashire though :worms:
A short video of my recent Easter trip to Bleau - a few nie circuit problems and couple of lower grade bangers:
Fontainebleau 2013 on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/63634629)
A short video of my recent Easter trip to Bleau - a few nie circuit problems and couple of lower grade bangers:
Fontainebleau 2013 on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/63634629)
Gets my "Seal" of approval.
Good to see Molly Moocher getting attention. Any success?Sadly not. I had a big hole in my tip so after a few fails I moved on. The snow had drifted up too much to try the sit!
Did you try Tantric Traverse Andy? Great climb.I didn't get anywhere near it. The starting holds felt desperate but I was constantly out of breath from filming from different angles and from generally having a nice time. I'm going back soon though to try it in earnest and hopefully (flash) those highballs;falling off doesn't bear thinking about.
In Bloom on Vimeo
In Bloom on Vimeo
Nice one Adam. What's the place like now without all the graffiti?
In Bloom on Vimeo
Nice one Adam. What's the place like now without all the graffiti?
Still loads left, and only been cleaned to head height. Be ace once it all goes, but that will be a while off. Not affected the fiction at all really.
Turnips new problem at EavestonesHe sure looks made up...
Auroras Encore - FA on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/64939692)
Turnips new problem at Eavestones
Turnips new problem at Eavestones
Welcome to Rum on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/65071248)
Nice Rum bouldering vid from Hamfunk (I think?)
Nice Rum bouldering vid from Hamfunk (I think?)
Welcome to Rum on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/65071248)
Nice Rum bouldering vid from Hamfunk (I think?)
cheers guys. I've wanted to do a proper video for years but don't have the time nor the footage to do so. as for narrative, no idea what a good bouldering narrative would be! "Like This is Yorkshire but with easier problems"?
Who wants to hear your voice on top of a video Andy? That's worse than dubstep! ;).I never said my voice!
Liking the lime esoterica, Chris! (by the way, I've added Brock the Start to PB - feel free to correct if I've described it badly).
Sneaky bit of bouldering-whilst-at-a-conference. Does this count as esoteric lime?
cosmic wheels on the mallory boulder really good climbing deserves more attention
http://vimeo.com/67048838 (http://vimeo.com/67048838)
The walk in is easy, just wet. I have no idea why people think its hard. Ravensheugh is much worse and there is less to do when you get there.
Never seen CTM done like that. Don't know what the holds out left are like but it appears to miss out what was the crux move.
glorious day on grinah a few weekends ago
Always liked the look of Leavenworth. Wanted to go out and meet ferret when he lived in Portland but he's moved now and won't tell me where he's goneIt's really very good - interesting rock with a wide range of climbing styles and a nice relaxed feeling to the place - good views too. Admittedly, you have to be in the mood for the town of Leavenworth itself.
Good to see a bit of Buckstones footage; doesn't seem to get much traffic up there.In my video feed I have another video from up there end of last year.
I'm weak - I need them! Also allowed in my book:
chin jams
head bars
ankle cams
elbow smears
tongue crimps
Know what you mean - as I'm currently progressing an offwidth mission over the summer I've got very used to having no skin on insides of ankles, knees, elbows or backs of triceps!
Have been to Woodhouse Scar once, really need to get back there - would like to get on Houdini (will be nicking your beta!) plus that thing to the right of Radium Arete.
Really good slightly highball line on the Orme, is wet 95% of the time so a good one to get on at the moment.
Flashpoint
Hopefully a bit of inspiration for the incessant heat!!
https://vimeo.com/70675942
A few Lakeland gems from this weekend..Some great looking problems there. Must make the effort to get up there,Fright Night looks superb!
Lakes Bouldering Seathwaite and Horsehow Crag Hardknott (http://player.vimeo.com/video/71697978)
Sorry, but its because Mark claps his hands in the middle of the dyno, i tried to slow it down to show it but it messed with the sound a little and the camera mic isnt great.
You can just hear it if you know what you arelookinghearing for hence the Young Clapper pun :)
We were undecided at the time if it counts because it was a bit quiet....
Nice on Andy... need to get on the Crucifix variations.. always feel nervy leaving my heel in when laying back on that crimp..
Crossing the Equator on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/72131617)
New (possibly) variation on the world line prow. The move dropping down to the edge feels harder than any single move on world line and some really cool hand follows heel moves to get back up the other side. Crossing the Equator 7A.
Thought about calling it Xenia Onatopp but not sure anyone would get the reference
Those churnet problems look great.
Which crag are Mirf's Roof and Witness on? I don't live too far away from the churnet and would be keen to check these out.
Cheers Dave
Which crag are Mirf's Roof and Witness on? I don't live too far away from the churnet and would be keen to check these out.
Cheers Dave
Sorry, didn’t realise my response would offend anyone. Access if fine, no there not a secret, routes 30 metres away were put up in the 70’s. Like so many areas of the Churnet just forgotten about and not revisited in the last 20/30 years.
I guess I was just trying to keep things hush hush until the guide comes out to make it more impressive. As I said to cofe last year I feel like a dj who is just about to drop the needle onto the most sort after bit of vinyl.
I’ll throw it out to you guys would you want to wait or do you want me to post the location of this roof??
Sorry again if I came across as a bit of a dick.
Nice. Thought Spider Crack was an eliminate though - going from crack to sloper up and right. Or maybe I was being foolish by copying another big Ron sequence?
I see where you're coming from, but I think if anything you'll generate more interest in the guide by telling the super keen how to get to these places. They'll then enthuse about the climbing and the upcoming guide to their friends, and all of them will be keen to buy the guide.
I've noticed this with the moors bouldering I've been documenting recently - have told lots of people where it is and all about it. Most of them are very excited about the new areas, but most of them will also wait till the guide comes out so they have full details when they visit. Only a small percentage of climbers ever goes to a new crag without a guidebook.
Hi RainbowAnother reason why I was vague is I know its unlikely for the top to dry out again this year so didn't want people to be disappointed and have a wasted journey. However another quality block is 30 metres away and dry most of the year so that will give everyone a chance to get their teeth into something.
Am not offended at all. No probs there.
Personally I would be keen to know where the roof is and will buy the guide when it comes out. I agree with the idea that by telling people now about the areas you will generate more excitement and more people will want to buy the guide.
Up to you what you do, I was probably just going to have a look sometime this month if I knew where it was.
Cheers Dave
:agree: :agree:Sorry, didn’t realise my response would offend anyone. Access if fine, no there not a secret, routes 30 metres away were put up in the 70’s. Like so many areas of the Churnet just forgotten about and not revisited in the last 20/30 years.
I guess I was just trying to keep things hush hush until the guide comes out to make it more impressive. As I said to cofe last year I feel like a dj who is just about to drop the needle onto the most sort after bit of vinyl.
I’ll throw it out to you guys would you want to wait or do you want me to post the location of this roof??
Sorry again if I came across as a bit of a dick.
I see where you're coming from, but I think if anything you'll generate more interest in the guide by telling the super keen how to get to these places. They'll then enthuse about the climbing and the upcoming guide to their friends, and all of them will be keen to buy the guide.
I've noticed this with the moors bouldering I've been documenting recently - have told lots of people where it is and all about it. Most of them are very excited about the new areas, but most of them will also wait till the guide comes out so they have full details when they visit. Only a small percentage of climbers ever goes to a new crag without a guidebook.
Dunno. Perhaps it's one of those problems that has evolved more sensible rules. Like I said, I copied Ron because he happened to be there doing his circuit. I assumed he did the traditionally accepted problem, but perhaps it was just a bad sequence! I remember it being a fairly tough move, and quite good.
Take out the "s" for the embed!
Font 2013 on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/73100665)
recent video from my trip to font with friends.
interested in any opinions regrading the editing of the video as to improve my next effort!
ta! :)
Some more climbing in the North West of Scotland
Sheigra Bouldering 2013 on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/73321029)
Liking the Sheigra vid - looks great.
Resistance is Foot-Heel? :no:
:agree:Resistance is Foot-Heel? :no:
I think it's a great name.
Some more climbing in the North West of Scotland
Sheigra Bouldering 2013 on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/73321029)
Where is this stuff in relation to the campsite? Are you going to document it in a topo?
Is the crag in the background at 11:15 or so Cnoc an Stac? If so NW Eliminate looks brutal.
That isn't Cnoc and Staca. The boulder i'm climbing on at that point has fallen from Cnoc and Staca, and so the crag is up and right of that shot. In the guide there will be pretty clear photos of this that should hopefully make it all clear. Where do people reckon i should post the guide so people can get it easily?
Where do people reckon i should post the guide so people can get it easily?
Where do people reckon i should post the guide so people can get it easily?
The UKB Wiki (http://ukbouldering.com/wiki/index.php/Scotland).
I was actually thinking of making a pdf guide like lakesbloc ones. They are so clear and easy to use. I have no issues with keeping it updated myself. To be honest, i doubt many people will go up there so continued development is likely to come from me anyway.
In general, topos for scotland are a bit lacking and there is no website that is really good. Maybe the solution is to make a little website for topos in the north west. Something simple would do.
AUSTRALIA II on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/73321591)
Really terrible. Barely any climbing in it...
To me, it's not the lack of climbing, what makes it unbearable, it's the message. Trying to picture some kind of "suffering" only because you got some bad weather on your world tour.AUSTRALIA II on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/73321591)
Really terrible. Barely any climbing in it...
Truly non-quality.
Mystery Quarry on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/73586878)
A few problems courtesy of Bonjoy. A pint given to anyone who correctly names the venue...
clue) It's 15 minutes away from sheffield
A pint given to anyone who correctly names the venue...
Mystery Quarry on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/73586878)
A few problems courtesy of Bonjoy. A pint given to anyone who correctly names the venue...
clue) It's 15 minutes away from sheffield
Very nice boulder-area, with maybe the most beautiful 8a+ in Switzerland!
Dulcifer (First ascent by Fred Nicole) : 07:16 min
Mother Cap Quarry.
A few problems courtesy of Bonjoy. A pint given to anyone who correctly names the venue...
clue) It's 15 minutes away from sheffield
Enjoy the peak 1 on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/73565585)
Props to whoever that is in the vids, a decent haul of classics ticked offI guess if you can climb 8b (FA Partage ss) then 7b isn't so hard. Monsieur Collignon's 3rd film should be interesting.
Props to whoever that is in the vids, a decent haul of classics ticked offI guess if you can climb 8b (FA Partage ss) then 7b isn't so hard. Monsieur Collignon's 3rd film should be interesting.
Liking the Sheigra vid - looks great.
Resistance is Foot-Heel? :no:
Fancy a trip Adam? Might even get you surfing!
So, following some nice comments about the Sheigra video I made i am fully expecting to be torn apart for this one. Before you watch, this was just a bit of fun (on a super windy day when climbing elsewhere would have been silly/dangerous). After making the movie i needed 6 mins of music and found a piece by John Williams called "Summon the Heroes". As a laugh i put it in, and found it so hilarious how it matched with the music that i couldn't change it. Particular highlight is the slap in the second ascent in the film of "one-per-cent". Hope you enjoy the outrageously OTT music. (and apologies also ;D )
Reiff in the Woods Bouldering on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/72846443)
Nice vid, 2 holds lower for the stand start on Zoo York for the tick though ;D
gggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggimp@16:28 "Watch this!" Pathetic effort at one armer follows.
WOW... You made it past the first minute!?;D
:no:Where did this shaky man come from?
Nice little yorkshire vid, the last problem looks good. What were the caley problems? (other than zoo york)The wall is just below the zoo York boulder.
You take "tearing the problem down" to a littoral level.;)
Check out this mat free highball !!!!
I know your not allowed heel-toe jams on screaming slave/cloning technology but are you allowed to use them on nuclear transplant? Probably wrong but don't think you are and sure looks like Dave used them :-\. One for greg I imagine to answer my query.
Rules are rules Sausage ;)
Autumn Outings on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/79001918)
Latest random bits from the past few months, the lack of climbing on my behalf sums it up well..
Autumn Outings on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/79001918)
Latest random bits from the past few months, the lack of climbing on my behalf sums it up well..
What's the second prob on that vid - thing with the left heel hook mantle?
Its got to the point where if I rocked out right I feel I would be cheating myself out of a tick
yeah but that's how you do it though isn't it?Graded for easiest method, perfectly allowed
Grubes- match the nose and rock out right.
Its called The Dove from Above, done by rich heap and Ben p first. Jon reckoned 7B but it felt pretty tricky to me, jon got some hood heel beta bit I couldn't figure it. Great bit of rock.Also added a good right hand start coming out of the cave (bigger than it appears on vid) - The Crow from Below 7a+
Its called The Dove from Above, done by rich heap and Ben p first. Jon reckoned 7B but it felt pretty tricky to me, jon got some hood heel beta bit I couldn't figure it. Great bit of rock.Also added a good right hand start coming out of the cave (bigger than it appears on vid) - The Crow from Below 7a+
I was going to finish the cave prob up there but couldn't figure a non dabby way to get established in the groove.Its called The Dove from Above, done by rich heap and Ben p first. Jon reckoned 7B but it felt pretty tricky to me, jon got some hood heel beta bit I couldn't figure it. Great bit of rock.Also added a good right hand start coming out of the cave (bigger than it appears on vid) - The Crow from Below 7a+
I also did a another version of the stand using the other side of the arete/groove feature. There were two worthwhile problems on the obvious low block to the right. Are they still included in modern guides?
No way!!! Is that Rich "The Hitman" Hatton on NTBTA? Erstwhile plastic scouser nice guy beast tick...
Dinner On Hold - Embarrassingly Poor Bouldering in Warwickshire (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j14fDTgIqXQ#ws)
:lol:
Welsh LGP
http://youtu.be/39AqxxZuLu4 (http://youtu.be/39AqxxZuLu4)
Welsh LGP
http://youtu.be/39AqxxZuLu4 (http://youtu.be/39AqxxZuLu4)
Great looking piece of rock. I would keep that card close to my chest.
Welsh LGP
http://youtu.be/39AqxxZuLu4 (http://youtu.be/39AqxxZuLu4)
Great looking piece of rock. I would keep that card close to my chest.
Welsh LGP
http://youtu.be/39AqxxZuLu4 (http://youtu.be/39AqxxZuLu4)
Welsh LGP
http://youtu.be/39AqxxZuLu4 (http://youtu.be/39AqxxZuLu4)
Great looking piece of rock. I would keep that card close to my chest.
Not one for me, I just want to see it done.
Welsh LGP
http://youtu.be/39AqxxZuLu4 (http://youtu.be/39AqxxZuLu4)
Great looking piece of rock. I would keep that card close to my chest.
Not one for me, I just want to see it done.
Didn't mean for you - it looks way beyond your capabilities ;)
They all look like getting pretty close, even the tanned one, I wouldn't want to be denied it by some passing Eurowad and it get named Der Krimpenfesten Testpiece or something.
Ryan was definitely eating the crusts of his sandwiches back thenHey what does this mean?
That footage is 6 years old and none of them have been back!
That footage is 6 years old and none of them have been back!Can't believe this hasn't been done yet
Welsh LGP
http://youtu.be/39AqxxZuLu4 (http://youtu.be/39AqxxZuLu4)
Great looking piece of rock. I would keep that card close to my chest.
Not one for me, I just want to see it done.
Welsh LGP
http://youtu.be/39AqxxZuLu4 (http://youtu.be/39AqxxZuLu4)
Great looking piece of rock. I would keep that card close to my chest.
Not one for me, I just want to see it done.
I can't believe none of them tried laying one on for the top!, even that curly haired lanky one! ;)
Welsh LGP
http://youtu.be/39AqxxZuLu4 (http://youtu.be/39AqxxZuLu4)
Great looking piece of rock. I would keep that card close to my chest.
Not one for me, I just want to see it done.
I can't believe none of them tried laying one on for the top!, even that curly haired lanky one! ;)
On his flash attempt Hunter cracked the bone in his ring finger on his left hand due to crimping to hard. When the bone cracks he doesn't fall but continues to climb through the crux falling while throwing for the jug. Not knowing of the injury yet Hunter immediately gets back on the problem and sends. Two hours later his finger began to swell and bruise. Hunter discovered that he had not fully snapped his bone but cracked it from extreme stress and exertion of force.
Genuine question unrelated to vid which I can't watch for some reason - does this still get 7c+/8a?
I'm sure I've seen it given 7c, think its come down a bit since stick-it, can't remember what it got in the most recent guide.
Everyone who's done it while I've been there, only a few times, has said 7c
Call that a crack Adam? That's not a crack. This is a crack.
Sorry, having a Crocodile Dundee moment.
https://vimeo.com/80677367
Nice to see people climbing here. It's half an hour from my bro-in-law's but I haven't been this year. I really like the rock, like what Font would've been like before the polish set in.
Meshuga offering!
https://vimeo.com/81505341
Quick couple of hours at Hottee again...
Cheers! ;DQuoteQuick couple of hours at Hottee again...
Great song! Thanks for the introduction :)
Can't say some of those top-out look appealing . . . . proper gritstone thrutches :sick:
Nice r-man. Quality bit of egg humping on that last problem! :lets_do_it_wild:
Got me psyched for another blackstones tripCan't say some of those top-out look appealing . . . . proper gritstone thrutches :sick:Nice r-man. Quality bit of egg humping on that last problem! :lets_do_it_wild:The body smear is a much underrated technique! :lol:
Terrible.:lol:
I'd just started watching sasquatch's first vid when the girlfriend, who started watching a couple of minutes in said "where's that" and I said "Alaska". She immediately said "ok let me know when she tells you" and turned over and went to sleep.
My intention was to go for the sit, but my plans were scuppered when I blew off the crimp and split my tip and took all the skin off my knuckles, very messy.
http://instagram.com/p/jRpGV1vPiu/ (http://instagram.com/p/jRpGV1vPiu/)
I don't think the low start is as easy as you're making out, it's relatively east to start low and get stood up, but actually getting into a position where you can begin climb the top half of the problem is another matter. Hopefully going to get back up there soon so we'll see.
pretty bad knuckle destruction.
Worst I ever had was on soft on the G at Gardoms, right hand blew of the sidepull and took all skin off both 1st and 2nd joint knuckles of all 4 fingers on right hand, bled like fuck. Seem to remember Johnny taking a bad knuckle ripper falling off highish on careless torque
I crimp absolutely everything so it happens all the time, worst one I've ever had was on West Side when the LH crimp blew, down to the bone on 3 knuckles, hurt like a cunt, took weeks to heal, bad times.
It's grit, it's lethal and bloody!
Slackers I know you won't be busy, can someone link to 8a.nonsense for the l'ugola vid? It's got one of the best looking holds I've seen on a problem. The works might have a use after all
I crimp absolutely everything so it happens all the time, worst one I've ever had was on West Side when the LH crimp blew, down to the bone on 3 knuckles, hurt like a cunt, took weeks to heal, bad times.
I love those leg flicks
Mint Berry Crunch 8A on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/85696530)
Slightly less than adequate padding on the back breaker bouder.
OK.
How you doing, been quiet!
What camera did you use? Not much noise at all!
What camera did you use? Not much noise at all!
Sony NEX-6 at 12800
What camera did you use? Not much noise at all!
Sony NEX-6 at 12800
2 of them?!
neither she nor this video is in any way representative of the amazing people and quality of climbing to be found in the area featuredThat's a bit disappointing.
(http://youtu.be/D6yCi_2ExtM)
Is this the future of the sport?
Did she say she likes to watch 'whore' films?(http://youtu.be/D6yCi_2ExtM)
Is this the future of the sport?
Hopefully :2thumbsup:
I've been trying to work out if she's a 'pro climber' for any reason other than being fit?
Hopefully :2thumbsup:
I've been trying to work out if she's a 'pro climber' for any reason other than being fit?
I've been trying to work out if she's a 'pro climber' for any reason other than being fit?
well filmed Chris
well filmed Chris
No hot pants though.
Gritlad and myself hit the Yorkshire moors:Watching that makes me want to go to Barden.. good effort.
What's the history behind the problem "Spondonical"?? who did the F.A.????
I happened across the footage from me climbing The Terrace yesterday, which I thought had been lost to a ID10T error on my computer.
Here is the resulting vid...
The Terrace, 7C - Burbage North on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/87370572)
That should be in the quality thread.
Isla Grace, Froggatt
Esoteric Slab, Wyming Brook
Made In Sheffield, Houndkirk
Big Girl's Brow & Roller Bowler Currant, Filthy Q
Green Chappel, Stanton Woods
Is that all of em?
Two of the best things Ive done in North Wales along with stuff like Lizard King and Wavelength.
My latest Yorkshire offering :whistle:
Yorkshire climbing. Thruscross, Ilkley and West Chevin on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/89654763)
With that many pads we shall just call it bouldering:....but CCS still mentions the "E7" grade 3 times :geek:
Nice looking problem.There are loads of really good walls and aretes at Guisecliff but it needs a good amount of dry weather or a nice Easterly to dry it out. Some of the problems like Trust and this one, Jaws, are definitely worth the visit.
Finally put these clips together of some new and some old things up at Bivi Buttress on the crag at Hunstham. Pretty good quality problems, Hunstham is well worth a visit I think!
Bivi Buttress - Huntsham Bouldering on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/90041216)
Done a couple of edits recently, two in Scotland and one in Font. The Font one isn't particularly unique - just decent problems, crap mantels and dance music!
Too slow / beatless for me.
Ste and Ryan both cheated too (Steve with some crazy ass midget sequence), so the real FA is still up for grabs ;)
What's the crazy midget sequence?
Having done Powerband / Staminaband by every variation that there was in the old days, it is definitely considerablly easier (particularly on Staminaband) to do the finish that way instead of the proper way as holding the pocket when a bit pumped is way more tricky than swinging down to the hold on the pillar. I can only imagine the difference is magnified by adding the Boy Band start into it.
What's the crazy midget sequence?
IIRC Steve gets pocket with lh, rh goes to minging little pocket undercut on back wall, then lh to pillar.
Having done Powerband / Staminaband by every variation that there was in the old days, it is definitely considerablly easier (particularly on Staminaband) to do the finish that way instead of the proper way as holding the pocket when a bit pumped is way more tricky than swinging down to the hold on the pillar. I can only imagine the difference is magnified by adding the Boy Band start into it.
Yeah, no doubt would add to it. I'd never tried the go-again method until I tried this link and was pleasently surprised by how easy it was. Steve said solid 9a for him, I suspect that will be the case for anyone using the dropdown finish
Going straight to the pillar is steady if you're tall. That's how I first did Staminaband but was made to feel guilty so did it again with the drop down.
Some Dow action.. good problems up there..
https://vimeo.com/92476751 (https://vimeo.com/92476751)
Want to escape the Bank Holiday crowds next weekend?
Some Dow action.. good problems up there..
https://vimeo.com/92476751 (https://vimeo.com/92476751)
Nice. You make Daggermouth look like a sport/ endurance route!!!
Should have got a bit of "Predator" style gun show footage for that tree pulling down peakoteria scene!!
Nice one Chris. Good film and good footage that shows the problems really well. I had to listen to the first half with the sound off though. Font grades for the highballs would have been useful.
One question: Why did you cut the tree down? And is it wise to show that on video wrt access and portraying climbers? (I don't have a problem with it myself)
I knew someone would ask about the tree! Pretty much what Bonjoy said. Although he's already been proven to be a choad on such matters.
Removing the tree will hopefully make it a bit more open to sunlight so it might not end up covered in moss again quite as quickly as it might have done.
So apparently I did bullet a weird way, had never seen how to do it before. Anyone else done it the same way? Also does anyone know what the problem I did at the start is?
Missed out the first 2 moves of Beretta as well - just saying
14 years later looks awesome
Lancs Lads in Albarracin 2014 on Vimeo
Giant cave full of potatoes found in Ireland! You couldn't make that shit up.
Potato Cave! - Not keen on the name it has to be said
Nice music
Blocked for copyright here...
Is that the definitive Boston Mess Dense? (genuine question, I've never had a clue!)
I still stand by the fact that a sitting start on the right to the sheep would be harder than 7b+. I've got a bee in my bonnet about this as it was a really nice couple of tension moves. Also I've always interpreted the problems that way. I think in the past I have tried to do a sit on the right and it was awkward bordering on impossible, as the ground drops away. Has anyone actually done this?
I think your being a bit sore saying it's clearly the easiest 7b+ in the peak. Have you done it this way?
I know it's a poor sloper I thought it might have got bigger since you pissed it! I know it gets 7b+ but it's absolutely desparate!
I think we went through this a while ago, and what I put on peakbouldering seemed to be the conclusion:Awesome. that's a cheeky wee historical tick I hadn't realised I had done :-)
Boston Mess Original 7C+
Rules: Start from a low undercut (not quite a sitstart), pull on, go left to furthest left undercut, right hand to middle undercut (crux), then use other holds to gain the ledge above. (What Mike did)
Boston Mess Sidepulls 7A+
Pull on to the left-hand undercuts and climb to the ledge.
Boston Mess Standing Start 6C
Boston Mess Jump 7B
Pull on to the low undercuts and jump to the ledge.
Presumably the jump goes to the lower right ledge?
I'm above average height, I'll have you know!
I just look small from up there. ;)
I'm surprised that someone who's done as much as you still thinks that grades can be accurate.
I think your being a bit sore saying it's clearly the easiest 7b+ in the peak. Have you done it this way?
Yes.
I find finishing right easier than grovelling up left.
The right hand start isn't shit IMO, just harder. Just cos something is hard for the grade, I don't reckon it makes sense to change the problem to fit the grade. I like having a few sandbags out there still. I've been there with various folk, who all thought Sheep Sitter started on the right.
Given that the standers only have a plus grade between them, if they shared the same sit it seams strange that the grade difference then jumps to 3 grades?
No soreness on my part. As I said, Ive only done it your way, and finishing left. I haven't linked it the way I think it goes.
James Thornton mid summer hard gritting ! :strongbench:wish I'd come along now James just to hear that victory speech
Renegade Master on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/103610482)
A few of the problems from my recent trip to Squamish.Good effort - you managed to tick all my nemeses!
http://youtu.be/uMBA9AlYRAY (http://youtu.be/uMBA9AlYRAY)
Backseat, Mantra, and the Bulb had all thwarted me on previous trips, so it was really nice to knock them out :)A few of the problems from my recent trip to Squamish.Good effort - you managed to tick all my nemeses!
http://youtu.be/uMBA9AlYRAY (http://youtu.be/uMBA9AlYRAY)
I also met a fella who had exclusively campussed for 3 years as he thought that was the purest form of bouldering.Was it him?
8A+? Seriously? It looks about 7B+
8A+? Seriously? It looks about 7B+
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=202528 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=202528)
Have you climbed at Dinas? All the holds look good but they are all at the wrong angle and all feel terrible... At least they did the 2 times I went there in Feb 2012.
It's a bit much to give things different grades depending on what footholds you use.
8A+? Seriously? It looks about 7B+
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=202528 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=202528)
Have you climbed at Dinas? All the holds look good but they are all at the wrong angle and all feel terrible... At least they did the 2 times I went there in Feb 2012.
It's a bit much to give things different grades depending on what footholds you use.
James repeated CA via the original sequence at 8A+, I believe there's an easier way been found using a foothold way out right that makes it 7C+/8A
I don't like arguing much on internet so come for chat at TCA Bristol this Saturday or message me for number if you want to talk like men.
Evening Gents,
To be brutally honest I never usually reply to UKB rubbish like this, only conditions reports. This being the exception that I couldn't work out whether 'a dense loner' was joking or not with that first comment. Adam Ondra makes 8C look like 7B+ and easier in videos so I don't get what you were trying to say, you know Carpenters Apprentice gets 8A+ but someone climbing it in a video makes it look like a 7B+ and that means... what? Maybe you should downgrade the Big Paw to 7A to add to your internet infused ego.
Thanks Ed, Jack and Duma for clarifying the problem. The Carpenters Apprentice starts sitting as for Fat Cat Roof (most logical place to start from sitting) but finishes on a blank face to the right involving an infamous press move. Some really tall people (Alex Mannion and Ben West for example) could stretch to a footblock/bulge down and right making the problem 7C+/8A but original line/beta still gets original 8A+.
Norman, there are no "rules" or eliminates or what ever you name them just a cool problem with tall man and small man beta.
Hope that clears things up.
I don't like arguing much on internet so come for chat at TCA Bristol this Saturday or message me for number if you want to talk like men.
Happy climbing, James
I like BSs post - insult everyone, compare yourself to AO, then challenge Dense to a fight. Strong entry to a thread.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=202528 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=202528)
Opps sorry didn't mean to come across arrogant. I was just annoyed at people for downgrading stuff they havent climbed.
Found this while looking for beta - the meat of it is pretty much as I expected, but did find an interesting approach to topping out:
A small video from my recent trip to the Rocklands!
Rocklands 2014 on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/105580459)
I thought it looked about 7B+.
Frequent lurker, rare poster but i thought i would add my very non-quality video to the collection.
:popcorn:
Peak District Circa 7a Bouldering on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/105918722)
Effort pal. I had a go on Bara Brith yesterday, tried going left hand first like that. You miss out that minging razor that Danny used, fierce flash! Keen to go back to that when fingers feel a bit stronger. Corridors looks mega, it's had about 4 ascents in the last week. (Badgers and Love Pie are sit starts :spank: :P)
That freakin slopy thing ruined my skin.Ditto!! Was ruined at Stanage today!!
Quality indeed. Funny here because it provides a nice contrast to the endless lancashire bum-shuffling.
Quality indeed. Funny here because it provides a nice contrast to the endless lancashire bum-shuffling.
Bum-shuffling! Only one sitter in the last vid that Rick posted. I guess I should film more of the highballs.
Great video Sasquatch.
Oh dear. I know I posted a few lowball vids, but there are plenty of big lines too. Just haven't been filming them as much. Will try harder!
This for instance. Holder Stones project. This place is great for highballs.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/t31.0-8/p480x480/1397242_1383394911904565_671991051_o.jpg)
Or this. Ring Ooze, 7B at Ousel's Nest.
(https://pbs.twimg.com/media/BuzFknrCYAED6-M.png)
Ok, I've put this in here as a challenge to the bum-shuffling comments - originally a trad route, but more suited to being climbed above pads.
Ok, I've put this in here as a challenge to the bum-shuffling comments - originally a trad route, but more suited to being climbed above pads.
I don't think routes become boulder problems just because people decide to use mats...
The start of this is bouldering in the Peak:check out gaskins crushing in his underpants at 47mins!
http://youtu.be/8v7z4dQcwP8 (http://youtu.be/8v7z4dQcwP8)
The start of this is bouldering in the Peak:
http://youtu.be/8v7z4dQcwP8 (http://youtu.be/8v7z4dQcwP8)
My favourite being 32:30-33:00. Never seen owt like it.
My favourite being 32:30-33:00. Never seen owt like it.
:lol:
"Who was that guy spotting me? He was practically giving me a cuddle."
"Dunno, I thought he was your mate..."
First Ascent of a problem in Guernsey.Good farm action. I was a bit worried about the dog getting squashed at one point though... Looks like a good problem!
Fort Doyle Bouldering on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/104345239)
Why was he bouldering/soloing in a harness? To rap back down? Why not just walk around? Mental?
Nice looking line. Too scary for me...
I was having this conversation the other day with Will. I agree with you, however would you agree that some routes do get much more attention from boulderers than routers because they're more accessible due to pads? Psycho at Caley, successor state at Brimham, Angel's share/jump on a beetle at Black rocks etc..Ok, I've put this in here as a challenge to the bum-shuffling comments - originally a trad route, but more suited to being climbed above pads.
I don't think routes become boulder problems just because people decide to use mats...
I was having this conversation the other day with Will. I agree with you, however would you agree that some routes do get much more attention from boulderers than routers because they're more accessible due to pads? Psycho at Caley, successor state at Brimham, Angel's share/jump on a beetle at Black rocks etc..
Just heard the books have arrived at the warehouse. Need to go pick them up...
just heard the books have arrived at the warehouse. Need to go pick them up...megastrophic.
Looking forward to it!!Good vid G, interesting that you lanked Kingdom of Slope, I had to use the intermediary!
I left Baby Bouncer as 6+ intentionally, as it felt pretty easy and a lardster like me flashing 6C+ is rare.
Good vid G, interesting that you lanked Kingdom of Slope, I had to use the intermediary!
Just heard the books have arrived at the warehouse. Need to go pick them up...
I like the idea of a guide book put together by a man with a penchant for magical realism
Good vid G, interesting that you lanked Kingdom of Slope, I had to use the intermediary!
it wasn't lank, it was all about rocking over on that right foot smear.
On Baby Bouncer I think body length might make a difference - I had to jump the first move but it looks like you can move your hands up a bit before cutting loose. Have done a proper sitter as well. A bit harder but the crux is the same. Either way, it may well be over graded. I'm sure some of these will take a few repeats to settle, so it's good to discuss.Just heard the books have arrived at the warehouse. Need to go pick them up...
I like the idea of a guide book put together by a man with a penchant for magical realism
I prefer real magicalism.
On Baby Bouncer I think body length might make a difference - I had to jump the first move but it looks like you can move your hands up a bit before cutting loose. Have done a proper sitter as well. A bit harder but the crux is the same. Either way, it may well be over graded. I'm sure some of these will take a few repeats to settle, so it's good to discuss.Just heard the books have arrived at the warehouse. Need to go pick them up...
I like the idea of a guide book put together by a man with a penchant for magical realism
I prefer real magicalism.
wasn't that the Nick White S Devon and Dartmoor guide?
:lol:Good vid G, interesting that you lanked Kingdom of Slope, I had to use the intermediary!
it wasn't lank, it was all about rocking over on that right foot smear.
On Baby Bouncer I think body length might make a difference - I had to jump the first move but it looks like you can move your hands up a bit before cutting loose. Have done a proper sitter as well. A bit harder but the crux is the same. Either way, it may well be over graded. I'm sure some of these will take a few repeats to settle, so it's good to discuss.Just heard the books have arrived at the warehouse. Need to go pick them up...
I like the idea of a guide book put together by a man with a penchant for magical realism
I prefer real magicalism.
wasn't that the Nick White S Devon and Dartmoor guide?
If that's the one with Dave Thomas on front it's a truly great guide
On Baby Bouncer I think body length might make a difference - I had to jump the first move but it looks like you can move your hands up a bit before cutting loose. Have done a proper sitter as well. A bit harder but the crux is the same. Either way, it may well be over graded. I'm sure some of these will take a few repeats to settle, so it's good to discuss.Just heard the books have arrived at the warehouse. Need to go pick them up...
I like the idea of a guide book put together by a man with a penchant for magical realism
I prefer real magicalism.
wasn't that the Nick White S Devon and Dartmoor guide?
If that's the one with Dave Thomas on front it's a truly great guide
It is, good and mental. The new Dartmoor one will be coming out next year, looks good too!
On Baby Bouncer I think body length might make a difference - I had to jump the first move but it looks like you can move your hands up a bit before cutting loose. Have done a proper sitter as well. A bit harder but the crux is the same. Either way, it may well be over graded. I'm sure some of these will take a few repeats to settle, so it's good to discuss.Just heard the books have arrived at the warehouse. Need to go pick them up...
I like the idea of a guide book put together by a man with a penchant for magical realism
I prefer real magicalism.
wasn't that the Nick White S Devon and Dartmoor guide?
If that's the one with Dave Thomas on front it's a truly great guide
It is, good and mental. The new Dartmoor one will be coming out next year, looks good too!
First guide I bought. It is fantastic, contains good pub guide, splendid route descriptions, e.g. 'Garth,A FLAT OUT, LOOK AT MY PECTORALS, a hairy chest celebration of the pump', there's also a route description in Hebrew in there somewhere. It certainly captures the mood of the area.
Finally got this video online, on the birthday of the guidebook too.......
Stony Edge on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/108444811)
My skin didn't get past the first two or three boulders.It trashed my skin for a week. It must be like what Widdop / Brideys was like 100 years ago.
It must be like what Widdop / Brideys was like 100 years ago.
It must be like what Widdop / Brideys was like 100 years ago.
Hmm sounds interesting (http://www.hebdenbridgehistory.org.uk/galleries/images/009rd.jpg)
it's the railway bridge crossing Blake Dean, presumably taking workers and resources up to the dams.It must be like what Widdop / Brideys was like 100 years ago.
Hmm sounds interesting (http://www.hebdenbridgehistory.org.uk/galleries/images/009rd.jpg)
Is to his what the first prototype dams looked like? :-\
good loking problems, what was the walk in time?
It took us 1 hour 20 minutes to walk-in but we stopped a few times. Also, you wouldn't want to go if it was too windy.
Some good vids recently. Good work
Yeah, the caption is wrong with that photo. That problem is on a different boulder further up the same Coire.
I might send you a pm with some other questions if that's alright.
That's a great vid of Upper Edale. 3rd way of doing Creme Eggs is the 'original'. And I think I may have done it without pads (so must be E10).Terrifying!
Nice video Chris - great to see you both got Malc's Arete.
Love that bonsai tree on top of he first boulder. The Three Streaks problem looked sopping - surprised you got on it let alone did it.
If that doesn't get 7B climbers psyched to climb north of the wall, god knows what will.
Here's a short non-quality video from my first trip to Font.
http://vimeo.com/groups/ukb/videos/109487160 (http://vimeo.com/groups/ukb/videos/109487160)
Here's a short non-quality video from my first trip to Font.
http://vimeo.com/groups/ukb/videos/109487160 (http://vimeo.com/groups/ukb/videos/109487160)
Nice little Vid Ben!
A few from the last week in Torridon. Obviously all the rain and midges have been edited out ;)
Here's a short non-quality video from my first trip to Font.
https://vimeo.com/groups/ukb/videos/109487160
A few from the last week in Torridon. Obviously all the rain and midges have been edited out ;)
My lord! Malc's arete is quite aesthetic. I assume there's a a sitter as well?
Nice one 502Chris. If that doesn't get 7B climbers psyched to climb north of the wall, god knows what will.
If only Torridon was just 'North of the Wall' rather than 6 hours north of the wall I'd be up there a whole lot more often!
If only Torridon was just 'North of the Wall' rather than 6 hours north of the wall I'd be up there a whole lot more often!Plus wargs, white walkers, winter is coming etc etc. All true.
A few from the last week in Torridon. Obviously all the rain and midges have been edited out ;):2thumbsup:
Torridon - More than just Malc's on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/109331638)
Gutted if Vimeo are cracking down on this type of 'theft', they should take a leaf out of youtube's book and have an automatic link directing the viewer to a place they can buy the music used, then everyone's a winner.I actually approached Ninjatunes for a quote on what it would cost to use one of their licensed tracks for a video a while back from which I would receive zero financial benefit, and they said admin. costs start at £200, then there's the fee depending on the seconds of music used, where it was shown, etc etc.
In the meantime, plenty of genuinely good music on here:
www.freemusicarchive.org (http://www.freemusicarchive.org)
Some quality spotting from R-Man there :D
Some quality spotting from R-Man there :D
I've never quite worked out how to prevent a forwards faceplant...
Our little lad doing a Christophe Profit style enchainement at Burbage North today
Triple Enchainement at Burbage North on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/110310648)
Any other good little people venues you'd recommend other than Burb S boulders, Cratcliffe?
Short Non-qual vid of a few hours snatched in Font.
Ment to post this awhile back. A bit of self promoting of my new video! Alittle chuffing here too with jordan walking up mecca and me on bricktop
http://vimeo.com/110676874
Ha! There were some impressively large piles of Turnips So there would have been enough to go around!Short Non-qual vid of a few hours snatched in Font.
out of interest, Rick
what camera are you using there?
video could have been improved by showing people chucking the turnips at slackliners
some footage of easy stuff that was lurking on my hard drive
Dave Macleod reports the calling of the granite
Drag Race 8A Rannoch Moor on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/112704613)
Drag Race, 8A, Rannoch Moor.
some footage of easy stuff that was lurking on my hard drive
I should stop watching these grit videos :'(
Cranking Cranking Crankers on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/114450671)
Of particular interest is the FA from Jon, Gorgie Porgie.
Also included a couple of climbs from Hollin's Hill which is a great perma dry limestone crag just south of anstons.
Didn't hear that, I've resorted to watching most vids with the sound off. People that do play music at the crag should be shot
Didn't hear that, I've resorted to watching most vids with the sound off. People that do play music at the crag should be shot
:agree:
Didn't hear that, I've resorted to watching most vids with the sound off. People that do play music at the crag should be shot
:agree:
If I hear even so much as hum at the crag from you ya getting kneecapped
Didn't hear that, I've resorted to watching most vids with the sound off. People that do play music at the crag should be shot
:agree:
If I hear even so much as hum at the crag from you ya getting kneecapped
I'm as quiet as a mouse when I'mat the cragout fishing.
That outfit though
I say song
Nice going fiend. I predict it would have been a lot easier without the biggest gillet, hate that word, I've ever seen.
The song, I say song, also gives good advice.
First attempt with Final Cut Pro X. Shit footage from October that's been sat on my camcorder.Nice. Was that the day of our aborted W4 trip? You still using the HV20? Render looks sharp
Short Wilton 3 visit on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/117160592)
I'm wondering why on Nacho's vid he was only warming one of his shoes on the dash?
I'm wondering why on Nacho's vid he was only warming one of his shoes on the dash?
doesn't really look like his shoes. old ninjas and way too small for a male adult.
I don't like this kind of videos. They seem to be made only to proof the ascent.
I like edited videos, in which you have closeups on the holds, so that you can appreciate the effort better.
I don't like this kind of videos. They seem to be made only to proof the ascent.I agree, but I've found that it's ALOT more work, hence so many non-quals :)
I like edited videos, in which you have closeups on the holds, so that you can appreciate the effort better.
Tempest does indeed look superb.Agreed. I like the look of that whole block in general. What else is on it? Good effort on the FA Luke :2thumbsup:
My latest humble offering...
Agreed. I like the look of that whole block in general. What else is on it? Good effort on the FA Luke :2thumbsup:
Had a good day at Tanygrisiau. Awesome place and generally overshadowed by the other areas in the mountains. "Tempest" is a real classic 7A.
Great Dogs At Crags in that one Andy, very topical :)Pure coincidence. :whistle:
My latest humble offering...Nice Andy, really like the colouring in the opening sequence
Stolen Sessions; Yorkshire Bouldering on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/118609634)
Not sure where to put this....
Jan Hojer & Jule Wurm showboating on german TV
http://tvtotal.prosieben.de/videos/Profikletterer-Juliane-und-Jan--/21346/ (http://tvtotal.prosieben.de/videos/Profikletterer-Juliane-und-Jan--/21346/)
Jan Hojer does one-finger pullups on a beastmaker. Tops of for power, of course...
AndyD, I don't know the guys, nothing against them, but I do think it's a showcase in how to spoil otherwise decent, clear footage of problems - it just really doesn't show the quality of climbing nor flow of movement.
It's a strange mindset (to me) to spend time posting something one thinks is shit just so that you can comment on how shit you think it is.
Really like those lawson beta videos.:agree:
The Black Garden on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/119498735)Didn't miss this but also didn't comment on the other thread so will do here...good work all round, and beta on T Bone start a bonus too.
Will shove this in here as well as not everyone will check the re-cleaned thread.
Some well good problems near Black Rocks.
First time using Lightworks so production levels are limestone basic.
Although my first post phrased it harshly it should be obvious as I posted it as an example to others to try to discourage editing that spoils footage.
If Andy or anyone wants to explain / justify what they like more about constantly changing camera angles with short overlaps of moves so you don't see the problem climbed in one go, obviously I'll be interested to hear that.
I thought the vid you linked was quite nice, though I'd agree that it was too choppy, or too overtly choppy, for my liking. I think is is partly because the chops are between very similar angles in may cases. IMO it's much better to flick between angles which are more different, or close-ups, rather than just where the camera has moved a few ft. If you watch the dosages there's generally only a cut if the angle changes by 90 degrees or more or if the close-up-ness changes significantly.
Although my first post phrased it harshly it should be obvious as I posted it as an example to others to try to discourage editing that spoils footage.
Although my first post phrased it harshly it should be obvious as I posted it as an example to others to try to discourage editing that spoils footage.
http://youtu.be/s6i3Q7F20w0 (http://youtu.be/s6i3Q7F20w0)
In non-quality mainly due to the use of a U2 tune but some mighty impressive youthly crushing on display here...
Alex Megos at the School Room (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FwtCbjhu-wI#ws)
This makes me feel unbelievably weak
It's also one of U2s better tunes.Agreed. Class song from an epic album. Old style U2 :yes:
Glad for his sake that Ben didn't witness the Joker episode, or he'd have found himself been training down the Matrix instead.
Glad for his sake that Ben didn't witness the Joker episode, or he'd have found himself been training down the Matrix instead.
Do tell.
Glad for his sake that Ben didn't witness the Joker episode, or he'd have found himself been training down the Matrix instead.
Except the initial blue balls tease!
Do tell.
I'm not really one to talk about it.
Think that's a bit harsh
I think I was more responding to the comment about the quality of the video than the music
In non-quality mainly due to the use of a U2 tune but some mighty impressive youthly crushing on display here...
christ, you can't even express an opinion about the quality of a U2 track without being pulled up on it. wtf is happening here :shrug:
Are you a mutant!? Didn't chalk up once.. my hands are grease buckets withing 5 moves on limestone....
Are you a mutant!? Didn't chalk up once.. my hands are grease buckets withing 5 moves on limestone....
How can it still be 8A+ if you miss out the hard bit?
How can it still be 8A+ if you miss out the hard bit?
Haha I totally missed that I just noticed the lack of a chalk bag on RA. Blind as a bat :s
Haha I totally missed that I just noticed the lack of a chalk bag on RA. Blind as a bat :s
You should of taken your chalk bag off earlier... defo a dab at 0.09 seconds. More interestingly, where you just wearing a kneepad for kicks?
Haha I totally missed that I just noticed the lack of a chalk bag on RA. Blind as a bat :s
You should of taken your chalk bag off earlier... defo a dab at 0.09 seconds.
From Dirt Grows The Flowers 8C/V15 - Nils Favre on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/117728768) God I love to see failure....
From Dirt Grows The Flowers 8C/V15 - Nils Favre on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/117728768) God I love to see failure....
Gotta love the guy's persistence. But......FUCK ME, all that buildup of him repeatedly failing and they go and totally blow it by flashing up the fucking problem name as he pulls on, then surprise surprise he does it. WHAT IS WRONG WITH THESE FUCKING PEOPLE? It's like flashing up "Darth Vader is Luke's Dad" on screen 30seconds before the big reveal in Empire Strikes Back. Fucks sake.
What do you want, a twist in the story?
One day some wad's going to post up a vid of Gioia or some bollocks and it'll be 6 minutes of almost doing it... then it ends with no send.
What do you want, a twist in the story? Turns out Nils is a ghost all along :o
A 12 Year Project - Mr. Universe (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jGsEEDGkGI8#ws)
Nice vid - that looksbrilliantvery Welsh!
True, what I meant was picture Simpsons face on Ru's body, only Ru's slightly taller now and his gut has vanished. Like some horrible griffin like creature on roids. Not Kingy, who looks half normal, but the morphing of the parts that become Kingy. Sleepless nights indeed
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cTzkUcnTKzU (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cTzkUcnTKzU#ws)
I love the upside down review of foot scuffage in the V.I.P. problem. Amusing. I take you got it done sans-micro-dabbage?
Especially since you were supposed to spend your whole winter doing quick tick boulders on new crags! :spank:
Fuck me that's a good baguette, what was in it?
Oh my god! You have a video with of prise de tete! It's on my hit list for the year and so far I've spent about 3h falling off it. This is the only beta I've ever seen. Did it get topped out? tough for 5+.
Cheers guys! :2thumbsup: I've learnt loads about filmmaking over the last year but it's all been from working on my massive project so none of it's seen the light of day yet. It was great to make a little film quickly using minimal gear. Glad people like it.
Have some holds snapped or something on Black Lung??! Without the intention of massaging your ego you made that look like a 6B. Outrageous!agreed. damn. :bow: same on ghost king.
[shameless self-promotion]
Le bleurb! Outrageous problem!
Some quality crushing in thisIndeed.
http://vimeo.com/126710599
You can'tAnd yet they did :)
Once you accept the term 'retroflash' has some valid meaning you can flash anything.:wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall:
You can't flash something you've done half the moves on. :-\Indeed. I feel like I'm somehow the old guy now - "back in my day, a flash meant..."
I reckon if you flashed the standup, and its a recognised pre-existing genuine standup, then subsequently do the sitter first attempt then I'd be happy for anyone to call that a flash.
I reckon if you flashed the standup, and its a recognised pre-existing genuine standup, then subsequently do the sitter first attempt then I'd be happy for anyone to call that a flash.devalues the flash style of ascent to me. If someone can go work a v12 stand start until they have it dialed and then add in a few moves of v8/9 at the bottom first go from the bottom, which bump it to v13 and call it a v13 flash, which can also be applied to a true untried v13 flash, then to me the term loses all value. One of those is much more impressive than the other.
So then, someone does High Flyer E4 at stanage end first go - does that then invalidate their subsequent flash of Low Rider?
Or, someone flashed Ron Side Story and jumped off at the break - does this then mean they can't flash WSS?
Remember that you're climbing a bit of rock, and if you onsight 9b, you've still only climbed a bit of rock.
Most problems start off the ground, but I've been walking around on the ground for a number of years now. Does this mean I've blown the flash on everything? ;)yes. :tease:
You'd think it was clear. I had to call monkey boy and woz out for it years ago, he still hates me for it
Retroflashing is real, but you have to be utterly strict with yourself about it.
No. A flash is doing it first attempt having not done any of the moves before hand, nor pulled off the ground on any of the holds.
nah.No. A flash is doing it first attempt having not done any of the moves before hand, nor pulled off the ground on any of the holds.
I agree with this strict definition; aren't we talking about beta-flashes in essence?
Just to clear things up, Sasquatch is correct.
Never said you couldn't touch holds on inspect, just not pull off ground.
"If I downclimb to the ground is it still an onsight?
....actually it was years inbetween my ascents and I could remember precisely fuck all ....
I keep expecting to see a non-quality bouldering video whenever there's a new post here.
Can this thread be split please? I keep expecting to see a non-quality bouldering video whenever there's a new post here."Like"
Can this thread be split please? I keep expecting to see a non-quality bouldering video whenever there's a new post here."Like"
I very often want to show appreciation of a post but don't actually have anything further to add than "I agree" / "+1" / "Good post" etc, and it seems wasteful to post just that (and OTT to give a wad point). A like button would be perfect for that.
Will you be posting a vid of yourself walking up the stairs at home next?
Will you be posting a vid of yourself walking up the stairs at home next?
if I can do it without a rest, do I get to kick you in the nuts?
I feel sorry for Monkey Boy that his video will be largely overlooked during the media frenzy that will burst into flame around my masterpiece
for once, passing ramblers could be forgiven for asking whether I was training for Everest
for once, passing ramblers could be forgiven for asking whether I was training for Everest
Bet Kenton Cool is shitting himself.
Yep Jordan, us, him, cjd, hockstack, Dave, Cofe, scouse, Bonjoy, maybe even Keith n keen youth? Maybe got couple of peeps mixed up. We were all seething at Greg for ruining our day. A good hour forced march followed by everyone moaning and leaving after an hr or so. It's the only time I've seen you abuse anything and I've never trusted Greg since. Clbimg was crap but looking back it was a good day ;)
Not as much as Johnny D now its apparent he's stolen Lagers handless bouldering ideas even though he filmed then first...
Which one are you again?
for once, passing ramblers could be forgiven for asking whether I was training for Everest
How come none of you cunts remember me being there?you're not the only one!
What happened to leaving something for the next generation?
Don't remember this strong lass being there? She looks pretty fit
(http://ukbouldering.com/media/images/stbees05.jpg)
Excellent. Never seen Samson done that way with the foot in the pocket before??
Warning: contains real rock, a dab and a fallen camera.
Get him to change it once you change your username :jab:
Can you? Never knew that :wall: will look into it cheers standard
good summer haul!
http://vimeo.com/128716485
4 x 4 bit of cloth
You can see the deadhanging sessions with Dense have paid off at 1:35
It's what the Japanese warrior class drink.
I've always wondered what samurai tango was!
Look how far we've come! I started climbing above a beer towel. Now not only have we got pads but I've just watched a Scotsman climb a boulder problem in South Africa, on my phone whilst I'm having a shit in my house in shef! The mind bogglesAs you'd expect from dense, as heartwarming a celebration of modern social interconnectivity as it is possible to express.
Look how far we've come! I started climbing above a beer towel. Now not only have we got pads but I've just watched a Scotsman climb a boulder problem in South Africa, on my phone whilst I'm having a shit in my house in shef! The mind boggles
::)
I'm curious what it was about my video that finally made you realise the technological marvels of modern life and not any number of the 180 pages worth that came before it.
http://vimeo.com/138381117Amazing! World's hardest pure arete?? What an incredible line, makes that grovelling 8B traverse shit that someone just flashed look as bad as Parisellas.
http://vimeo.com/138381117
my big Swiss video
https://vimeo.com/135136048
Liking Jackie's dance moves!
Horrible music :agree:http://vimeo.com/138381117
What a shit sound track though. It's completely tasteless. :shit:
Also, the second comment on vimeo, makes me think someone was hoping to release the footage as part of something else...
but does include the rather pant-filling Piton Crack.
Nice vid, what's difference between your heavyweight and CJDs thing? Basically the synonym (that's supposed to be dyno according to spellcheck!) with the addition of a crimp for left hand. Good Boulder that, wish it was in my garage
The zen sound of onehandT shirt slapping
The joyful futility of bouldering captured to a tee, there! Really enjoyed that :):agree:
:D I've been in that position on that problem...I think that is the standard beta
I discovered this video on my hard drive today! Another rock kissing moment from a few years ago.I fell off the problem just to the left of the pinch (50 sec mark) a few years back and fucked my ankle, the pad sunk between a very small lump and trapped my foot and I went over on it. There was an american woman pointing at my ankle and saying 'is it normally that shape'
https://vimeo.com/141385933
I fell off the problem just to the left of the pinch (50 sec mark) a few years back and fucked my ankle, the pad sunk between a very small lump and trapped my foot and I went over on it. There was an american woman pointing at my ankle and saying 'is it normally that shape'
My reply was sharp and not polite....Only been in America 2 days as well.
Some good high foot shennanigans there on JR... 7A+ my arse ;)
Some good high foot shennanigans there on JR... 7A+ my arse ;)
I'm with you there. More like 7a with that sneaky left foot.
No it finishes on a hold just over the roof above where george drops off
Unless the original finish did go over the roof,
That was really nicely put together. How many times did you do the whole problem?
Tripod needn't weigh much. Either cough up for a carbon fibre one, or just about any small pisscheap aluminium one with a crapy builtin plastic head will do the job and weigh fuckall.
A quick tip for the gropro folks. Most people(boulderers especially, but sporties for stick clips too) these have extendable painter pole stick brushes. If instead of taping your brush to it and cut off a paint roller near the handle and you have a n easily removeable brush. This allows you to screw on tripod mount(like this: http://www.amazon.com/ProPole-Painters-Adapter-Camera-Monopod/dp/B00EVWS1JK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449512542&sr=8-1&keywords=painters+pole+camera+mount (http://www.amazon.com/ProPole-Painters-Adapter-Camera-Monopod/dp/B00EVWS1JK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449512542&sr=8-1&keywords=painters+pole+camera+mount). This turns your stick into a monopod.
A better solution would be to epoxy a 1/4" BSW threaded nut (standard camera tripod thread) onto the bottom of any brush, then instead of a brushstick you buy a cheap monopod, screw camera on for video, screw the brush on for brushing duties, bingo.Epoxy?
An ultrapod would be great for this. I've used it closed up and the velcro strap taking photos with an SLR and it's rock solid.
Part 2. No Johnny Brown jingle, but contains Bob the Builder instead. First one is funnier.
https://vimeo.com/149487686
Nice work, this is the county of my origin. In fact my first ever days climbing was at Markfield Quarry!I think the first time I ever climbed was at Markfield too, it was nice to go back. To the right of the main slab is this steep little wall. The L>R diagonal is 7B/+ and the sitter to Little Lilly is 8A, details are on UKC I think.
Where are these problems? I'd be interested to know. Thanks
darkthrone t-shirt!
can some fucker in authority stickify this thread please?
anyway, some class punter action from today
Short Easy Arete Low Start at Burbage Bridge - an unsung class eliminate that doesn't involve any danger
http://vimeo.com/149915467
I'd have offered you a lift, DT, but it was well before 10am when I headed out
[insert sleeping smiley]
I apologize for the minor earth quake :-[
Nice one, Jack :) Great stuff with the different angles, got a nice feel for the climb that way.
One from a while back which I've just rediscovered unfinished and unable to be finished due to losing the original project file and software! The working of a boulder problem.
http://vimeo.com/151770529
Some more esoteric peak stuff here. Was going to edit it into something longer / better but I just haven't got time at the moment. I'll add the list of problems to the vimeo page shortly in case anyone can't work out what they are.This is worthy of a place in the quality videos section although I understand the sentiment and humility of placing it here. I enjoyed every part of that. Music included. A fine effort.
Warning. Contains 2 naughty words at 04:58.
https://vimeo.com/153021657
I got all of those, but not sure if the last one is Moongoose Analogue or Boonapi?
Great vid again Chris. Good to see a better vid of Hole Dancer than the crappy one I got. I got all of those, but not sure if the last one is Moongoose Analogue or Boonapi?
some non-quality footage of Grumpycrumpy that I put together for his familyShit, didn't know about that. Sad news.
Nice one lagers.That's a nice thing to have. Bet you're glad you have the footage. Sorry to all who lost him
happy messing about on rocks with friends. What more can one ask for?
Some super spotting in there.
that eliminate double dyno at Isatis that used to get 7A+, but is actually 6C , and isn't in Yorkshire
done with neither a left, nor a right heel
on my list to do this Easter
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_JZl0g1l-_0
A couple of classics and some lesser climbed and esoteric gems from the last couple of months on the grit
Also I'm not sure why youtube doesn't always load in HD, click the cog thing in the bottom right corner..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FDIJgbDzIqg
I was worried that was the 7A+ dyno I'd done in Isatis years ago - but it was Vin Rouge - another fun (and easy if you're not morphologically challenged) font Dyno. (and I think my first >7A there)
is it off underclings?
Sent from my XT1039 using Tapatalk
I found it harder than Smash.
Can't believe how dry it like looks.Yeh wasnt a wet hold anywhere! Awesome place :)
adidas trousers are now THE fashion eh?Haha just cheap and work well
A couple of classics and some lesser climbed and esoteric gems from the last couple of months on the grit
Also I'm not sure why youtube doesn't always load in HD, click the cog thing in the bottom right corner..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FDIJgbDzIqg
No footage of me, I'm a full time fisherman these days.
No footage of me, I'm a full time fisherman these days.
Bringing your rod to the CWIF, or is that a different willackers? ;)
some problems from all over last year
http://vimeo.com/155376728
Some nice problems there and some special pants!
Where are you based? I just wondered as that was a fair old trip around those destinations
haha, the CWIF doesn't count, it's not real fishing.
How's smokescreen? Might need to give it some action in the spring.
Nice chick power!
How many grades does a kneepad take off your 8a account Alex?
That's the best thing I've seen all year
New 8c Satan i Helvete, from Alban Levier
http://planetgrimpe.com/2016/02/24/alban-levier-reouvre-satan-i-helvete-et-le-cote-desormais-8c/
Can't seem to embed it
I thought Satan i Helvete shared the same start of Fata Morgana Bas.
What the hell does the name mean by the way?
It's swearing - fitte (19-04-2004 19:35)
"Satan i helvete" is good old norwegian swearing and is equivalent to the english "Fuckin hell" expression. Inspired by norwegian climber (that swears a lot) Morten F. I've heard...
New 8c Satan i Helvete, from Alban Levier
http://planetgrimpe.com/2016/02/24/alban-levier-reouvre-satan-i-helvete-et-le-cote-desormais-8c/
Can't seem to embed it
anyone know what hold it was that broke? sequence looks the same as before, bar the move out left looking more controlled than other people doing it...
I thought Satan i Helvete shared the same start of Fata Morgana Bas.
What the hell does the name mean by the way?
5.20 Good work Matt! That's how I fall most of the time!
Can't believe I've watched you in a pair of Dragons... I'm sure you always used to have some kind of horrendous thick sock + 5.10 flat punter shoe combo ;)
I think the last clip sums up that place best, holes in skin and in clothes. awful sharp rock, never going again
Misty spring smeg, but some good climbs. Bumlog seems desperate!
Athletes hands!?!?!
550 tape!?!?!?! "Don't skimp on it" "Punch it into the rock"
"The Gargoyle"
"The Pterodactyl"
:blink: :unsure: :shrug::ohmy: :badidea:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QKDhX02_N9g
He needs a better green screen. :slap: :slap: :slap:
This is quality. It's sadly not too far fetched; I'm guessing it's based on someone he's met. (If he was in Leeds he'd say he'd done Zoo York using some of these techniques whilst no one was looking :worms: )Athletes hands!?!?!
550 tape!?!?!?! "Don't skimp on it" "Punch it into the rock"
"The Gargoyle"
"The Pterodactyl"
:blink: :unsure: :shrug::ohmy: :badidea:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QKDhX02_N9g
He needs a better green screen. :slap: :slap: :slap:
:-\ 3 times climbing champion. Will he be at the CWIF?
Attack of the barefoot mega-dab:My big toes were hurting watching this, especially that 6C slab...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VpKzeY62Cpg (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VpKzeY62Cpg)
Attack of the barefoot mega-dab: <video>My big toes were hurting watching this, especially that 6C slab...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Attack of the barefoot mega-dab:My big toes were hurting watching this, especially that 6C slab...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VpKzeY62Cpg (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VpKzeY62Cpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Surely quality, non. Enough of the false modesty.
Surely quality, non. Enough of the false modesty.
It's tradition to post your own on this thread, if you post your own vid in the quality thread the site font changes to the comic sans.
Nice one! Did you not get on the sitter to Picnic? You'd have cruised it I reckon. Move man is so knacky, top job. Looks like she was is good condition, glad you had fun.
George don't post any more vids of you climbing 7c's you should be climbing 8b!
Really good vid that beastly squirrel, as opposed to kingy on hatchlife! We should have a terrible vids thread for stuff like that! Was that Tim with the camera in shot? Sack him! :'(
Trojan war looks great, like an easy version of mossatrocity ;D Where is monaco assis? Looks good as well, as do most things in font :slap:
https://vimeo.com/159993532
Non-quality due to 3 minutes of exposition and then showing every single move from three different angles, but the line looks pretty nice.
http://vimeo.com/158413139
I Wanted to put it in quality vids but I feel like I have a biased view due to the peak limestone nature of the video! Haha, regardless this got me super exited for this lime season.
LOL. Due to the editing I have no idea what any of the moves were, but the rock features do look well cool.
I like the fact that one of the points of the video is to try and sell his bus :look:LOL. Due to the editing I have no idea what any of the moves were, but the rock features do look well cool.
I was going to bit my tongue, and I have obviously got no evidence, but does the hold he gets at 4:28, 4:33 and 4:36 look "unusual" for an otherwise blank wall?
LOL. Due to the editing I have no idea what any of the moves were, but the rock features do look well cool.
I was going to bit my tongue, and I have obviously got no evidence, but does the hold he gets at 4:28, 4:33 and 4:36 look "unusual" for an otherwise blank wall?
LOL. Due to the editing I have no idea what any of the moves were, but the rock features do look well cool.
I was going to bit my tongue, and I have obviously got no evidence, but does the hold he gets at 4:28, 4:33 and 4:36 look "unusual" for an otherwise blank wall?
Maybe you could go to Patagonia and have a look, or contact the camera person on Facebook?
LOL. Due to the editing I have no idea what any of the moves were, but the rock features do look well cool.
I was going to bit my tongue, and I have obviously got no evidence, but does the hold he gets at 4:28, 4:33 and 4:36 look "unusual" for an otherwise blank wall?
Maybe you could go to Patagonia and have a look, or contact the camera person on Facebook?
It's probably fine, just looks a bit weird. I would go to Patagonia to look, but my time / travel machine is in for MOT.
LOL. Due to the editing I have no idea what any of the moves were, but the rock features do look well cool.
I was going to bit my tongue, and I have obviously got no evidence, but does the hold he gets at 4:28, 4:33 and 4:36 look "unusual" for an otherwise blank wall?
Maybe you could go to Patagonia and have a look, or contact the camera person on Facebook?
It's probably fine, just looks a bit weird. I would go to Patagonia to look, but my time / travel machine is in for MOT.
https://vimeo.com/159993532
Non-quality due to 3 minutes of exposition and then showing every single move from three different angles, but the line looks pretty nice.
butt drag
http://vimeo.com/160286990
Thought I'd throw my hat into the Esoterica ring. This has unintentionally come out as a bit of a tribute to Jonboy's problems - changed a couple of problems in the vid to diversify it a bit more - thanks lad.
great knee on goose
I'll make sure nizza carries on, the end justifies the means in this case
Excellent :)
Ascent starts at 2:36...
Good stuff, looks rather complicated and technical.
Have a wad for including some bumbly problems and making them look harder than the 7Bs and climbing everything in socks :)
Pffft. Nonsense, socks is gooooood. :clap2:... for making you fall off from Gaia.
another shite bag of choss from Wales
Steep, uniform, similar move each time. Simple minds. Looks brutal.
QuoteSteep, uniform, similar move each time. Simple minds. Looks brutal.
Peak Lime :)
another shite bag of choss from Wales
Something really appeals to me about problems like that. Steep, uniform, similar move each time. Simple minds. Looks brutal. Way, way too hard for me but would love to know where it is anyway?
the whole main boulder is world class, in fact the venue is world class check out the other problems its an epic experience both climbing and location
another shite bag of choss from Wales
Something really appeals to me about problems like that. Steep, uniform, similar move each time. Simple minds. Looks brutal. Way, way too hard for me but would love to know where it is anyway?
im joking, its bloody brilliant.
its in sheep pen area in the Ogwen valley north wales. the whole main boulder is world class, in fact the venue is world class check out the other problems its an epic experience both climbing and location
another shite bag of choss from Wales
https://vimeo.com/161729720
Effort with lighting up the block too - guess its a good one to get the lanterns on
Nice work holding the cut loose at the end there!
Bloody hell JackPal did Organic mistakenly send all their pads to your address instead of the distributors :o
Quality all the way.
Lovely. Superb closing shots.Merci. It definitely makes me climb more when I have a project on the go. Glad you liked it :icon_beerchug:
My humble offeringSome lovely shots there Andy, good effort.
http://vimeo.com/162592303
That looks very good. Is there much more or is that basically it?
Dave Carrington put together a little video of some stuff up a Wimberry. Including a couple that there isn't much info for (e.g. Flakes of Concern and the Fish Groove)
https://vimeo.com/162853571
Good to see the flakes on video :)
Finally got round to checking out this little collection of boulders not far from Wycoller. The big 7B arete is a forgotten classic, and the other lines are decent too.
https://vimeo.com/163268087
https://web.archive.org/web/20131207152045/http://yorkshiregrit.com/greatwolfstones.html
A lot of holds broke on that over the years, and that's going back 10 years ago. I didn't use to do it much at all despite climbing there loads cos it felt terrifying pulling on the holds!
Goddamn you were fat in season 1!
Goddamn you were fat in season 1!Really was! No wonder I couldn't climb anything...
Top work
Send footage made me feel a bit seasick, but otherwise great stuff!Random lady on a boat! I'm not gonna complain! Haha
Maybe a bit long video ;)It definitely is, I know!
Where's the victory jump?I first jumped off there when I was 12... The point was to stay dry. :D
Back around....... ;)
I'm also intrigued by the "seasons" Hot season / Cold Season / Wet season / dry season?
I'm also intrigued by the "seasons" Hot season / Cold Season / Wet season / dry season?
Nice one Jack. Looks like a great journey and one that you must be glad is over! I admire you for going ground up.
I'm interested in the logistics. How many attempts do you get in a session? Is the limiting factor a physical one (you get too tired for more attempts) or do you just run out of dry rockshoes? Is this close to where you live? And is that close in a way that I would consider close (my local crag is a 7 minute drive from the house. There is one a 2 minute drive away but its crap)?
Did you ever struggle to get people to go out with you? Is there much else at the crag to keep them busy while you're on a project? Did you have any trips there on your own? Did anybody else try your project and how did this make you feel? How would you have felt if they'd done it?
And finally, did you ever try using a foothold closer in towards you? I don't even know if there's a foothold there but the whole time I was watching you fail my brain was screaming, "bring your toe in closer to you and you'll piss it"! On that note, did it take you long to find the right sequence or is it fairly obvious? If number of goes in a session are limited it can be really hard to force yourself to try something else.
Sorry for the barrage of questions.
I think day 1 I had made it out of the roof but hadn't worked out the crux at all. Looking back at videos, I'd worked out the crux sequence on 30/12/13 thanks to mate abbing in and finding the face crimp. Think this was maybe 10 sessions in. Took a few more to be at the point of attempting the move but still...
One from yesterday. The rock and moves on this are superb. I think it's one of the best things I have done in the UK.
One from yesterday. The rock and moves on this are superb. I think it's one of the best things I have done in the UK.
Nice one Dave
Has anyone short tried this. I'm stumped by the move at 40 seconds? Cant keep right right foot on and get the base of the crack.....😖
How come you've changed the grade to 8a? The same with the tracks?
Why are you up at 7am on a Sunday? You've got no kids! Was your bed on fire?
One from yesterday. The rock and moves on this are superb. I think it's one of the best things I have done in the UK.
Nice one Dave
Has anyone short tried this. I'm stumped by the move at 40 seconds? Cant keep right right foot on and get the base of the crack.....😖
How short is short? Craig isn't tall but did it basically the same way.
https://vimeo.com/157199370
You'll need double the time as they did male and female separately.In that case I'll only need half the time
How come you've changed the grade to 8a? The same with the tracks?
After doing the tracks a few times I recon it's probably 8a. Recon the sit moves are probably harder than the top.
One from yesterday. The rock and moves on this are superb. I think it's one of the best things I have done in the UK.
Nice one Dave
Has anyone short tried this. I'm stumped by the move at 40 seconds? Cant keep right right foot on and get the base of the crack.....😖
I have one more question for Jack Aus, possibly the most important one everyone has forgotten: Since the route was at/near Nowra, why didn;t you call it a vulgar genitalogical name?? Pissflaps Prow or something??
The rest of my footage from Font.
https://vimeo.com/164054941
The rest of my footage from Font.
https://vimeo.com/164054941
Ace!
Dont think I have seen the inverted left triceps press being utilized on this scale before.The rest of my footage from Font.
https://vimeo.com/164054941
The rest of my footage from Font.
https://vimeo.com/164054941
Another nice video Dave. But I think I speak for everyone when I say, get any footage of your American spotter doing the climbing?
Nice to meet you yesterday! :wave:
My offering...edited footage of a load of problems I've done in and around the peak over the last 8-9 months...hope you like it :)
https://vimeo.com/164888398
P.s. apologies for a couple of the clips being lower quality than the rest, hopefully it won't be too noticeable...
My offering...edited footage of a load of problems I've done in and around the peak over the last 8-9 months...hope you like it :)
https://vimeo.com/164888398
P.s. apologies for a couple of the clips being lower quality than the rest, hopefully it won't be too noticeable...
Is Moffatrocity not missing a move to the top holds?
Guilty as charged...but the top arete was damp and it's still very good just to there. Not interested in finishing up the 6b which some people seem to do but might do the arete if I go back with friends
Quote from: dave
No, but surely yoghurt hypnotist is.
[/quote
Guilty as charged...but the top arete was damp and it's still very good just to there. Not interested in finishing up the 6b which some people seem to do but might do the arete if I go back with friends
There's a strong precedent for lime and dreads though...
(http://cdn.ukc2.com/i/251836.jpg)
What's happened to the dreads? :'(
Did pursuit of alacrity today, mint conditions on the lime today.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=8LPjUbRzcuc
The vid deffo isn't the 7b version. This is the 7b version:That isn't the original either, since it topped out within the scoop rather than slapping back left.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_I6spiTdQag
Cheers Tom! Was just going to post that... Looking forward to seeing Part 2!
Also, can anyone confirm the Clandestino grade for what was done? I've seen various methods for this and various grades.... Seems most likely that the 7b version avoids slapping out left as was done on the vid?
The vid deffo isn't the 7b version. This is the 7b version:That isn't the original either, since it topped out within the scoop rather than slapping back left.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_I6spiTdQag
The original was a total sandbag though, since the end was harder than the end of El Paso due to topping out from the bad holds one move short of the jug
Which video, the house one, or the other one? The other one is nails, the house one is nothing like 7bThe vid deffo isn't the 7b version. This is the 7b version:That isn't the original either, since it topped out within the scoop rather than slapping back left.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_I6spiTdQag
The original was a total sandbag though, since the end was harder than the end of El Paso due to topping out from the bad holds one move short of the jug
I did it as per the video, which felt the most natural / 7Bish way.
I also remember flashing the '7A' and thinking that it felt quite a lot easier than some other 7As that I've done in Font.
Which video, the house one, or the other one? The other one is nails, the house one is nothing like 7bThe vid deffo isn't the 7b version. This is the 7b version:That isn't the original either, since it topped out within the scoop rather than slapping back left.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_I6spiTdQag
The original was a total sandbag though, since the end was harder than the end of El Paso due to topping out from the bad holds one move short of the jug
I did it as per the video, which felt the most natural / 7Bish way.
I also remember flashing the '7A' and thinking that it felt quite a lot easier than some other 7As that I've done in Font.
Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk
Good send :D
Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk
One from yesterday. The rock and moves on this are superb. I think it's one of the best things I have done in the UK.
Nice one Dave
Has anyone short tried this. I'm stumped by the move at 40 seconds? Cant keep right right foot on and get the base of the crack.....😖
How short is short? Craig isn't tall but did it basically the same way.
https://vimeo.com/157199370
Lovely video guys.
You dont have to defend your tallness, it's something to embrace David. Guess I mean is there another way other than having your right foot up. Googling it I came up with the news item on nwb. Maybe an alternative sequence there
http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=639
I should head back fresh to be honest, only tried it after being on harder things in the Pass, plus it was seeping, add to that my fear of open water and hill walkers and I was definitely handicapped.....
A couple of problems on Portland Bill including possible first ascent of maybe 7A? In guidebook says unclimbed and doesn't seem to have been written up anywhere. Worth a write up even if turns out someone else did it years ago, it's pretty good!This does look good :thumbsup:
https://youtu.be/XK73Apuk1IE
Far too long and boring video. But plus side is me falling. A lot.
http://vimeo.com/163534254
Quality full body resonance going on there!
Hopefully he'll get a vid up off him swearing in front of old people in dudno soon :bow:
I might make a compilation of his videos with just a cut of him examining his skin at the top of every problem
Interesting, looks cool and I've heard compared to the rest of Oz it's pretty shit. Not been tempted to get any surfing in?
Interesting, looks cool and I've heard compared to the rest of Oz it's pretty shit. Not been tempted to get any surfing in?
I think a lot of places are pretty shit when compared to Australia's more popular climbing areas.
There really are some cracking boulders and problems around Perth, it just requires a little more effort to get the info and get out there, but I think that adds to it tbh. Some of the stuff I have looked at would be 3 star, no matter where it was. I'm planning on getting out a bit more before the weather warms up, I'll try and get some more footage of the good stuff.
Scary!This looks amazing. Any info on it anywhere. Assume its north york moors near whitby??
https://vimeo.com/176336669
This problem has been doing my head in for years :blink:
https://vimeo.com/178094933
Is this all around the headland to the left as you're looking out to sea from the beach campsite?
Cheers. Don't think it will be too long before I'll be complaining about the heat and not being able to climb!
I start watching his videos thinking this will be funny and by the end i'm wound up.
I start watching his videos thinking this will be funny and by the end i'm wound up.
Likewise! So far up his own arse he needs a rope around his ankle.
he is trying to claim it is all in the name of an environmental goal.
I think that is what winds me up. He is unbelivabley priviliged even to be able to contemplate living in a yurt for a year in a beautiful swiss valley and developing his own personal bouldering spot. But instead of admitting he is lucky and enjoying it, he is trying to claim it is all in the name of an enviromental goal. This type of lifestyle is completely and utterly unfeasible for the vast majority of people.
Are his kids with him?
It's the story of four people on 30m².
Bagged another FA on Friday
https://vimeo.com/182053235
Bagged another FA on Friday, she's a beaut as well, happy days! :)
t looks even better when you're looking up at it, or looking down from the top.
I like the look of that rock.
Where is it ducko ?
Must be roadside too if you can get a moped there.I like the look of that rock.
Where is it ducko ?
North Wales dude, all will be revealed once ive moped up what i can! its very good.
Must be roadside too if you can get a moped there.I like the look of that rock.
Where is it ducko ?
North Wales dude, all will be revealed once ive moped up what i can! its very good.
I like the look of that rock.
Where is it ducko ?
North Wales dude, all will be revealed once ive moped up what i can! its very good.
Or the grooviest scoop. I liked the look of trying to continue the traverse out leftwards.
Or the grooviest scoop. I liked the look of trying to continue the traverse out leftwards.
Nice. Is there a grunge revival in Australia? Wear some brighter clothes!
http://www.epictv.com/media/uservideo/climbing-lalchimiste-8b-in-font/605452 (http://www.epictv.com/media/uservideo/climbing-lalchimiste-8b-in-font/605452)
Dunno if this is anywhere else but none quality due to the dabage?!
It would probably have looked a bit better if I'd have worn a brighter t-shirt eh ;)
An ultrapod would be great for this. I've used it closed up and the velcro strap taking photos with an SLR and it's rock solid.
Yeah I've got one of these. Rarely use it but when I have it's been great for velcroing to a brush stick for an impromptu monopod. By virtue of the rigid legs and the positive closure of the strap they feel pretty solid. Never been tempted by the gorillapods.
https://vimeo.com/182792187
At least one of us had a bright t-shirt on.
At least one of us had a bright t-shirt on.yellow trouser brigade!
At least one of us had a bright t-shirt on.yellow trouser brigade!
The E9 trousers I have on in that video used to be bright yellow, after about a month of buying them I realised that they made me look even more of a twat so I dyed them black.
[/quote]
Hey Ducko - well done finding this bloc...its pretty impressive eh?
Friends and I climbed the stuff on the first face about a decade ago but the steeper stuff was not touched. Looking forward to seeing what else you manage there.
Good effort mate.
Just spotted this on peakbouldering. Little bit of Lawrencefield esoterica. Ace to see this cleaned and climbed again - it's been about ten years since I did it. Possibly the first repeat? Made me smile anyway.
Just spotted this on peakbouldering. Little bit of Lawrencefield esoterica. Ace to see this cleaned and climbed again - it's been about ten years since I did it. Possibly the first repeat? Made me smile anyway.
https://youtu.be/0iEQJtoDd20
Sydney, Canberra, Nowra, Central Coast.
http://vimeo.com/184125026
Sydney, Canberra, Nowra, Central Coast.
loved this. best honest film of good times on here for a while... can I just ask.. so many different rock types - are they all so accessible? really?? honest dumb question... amazing!!
Short walks, but some long drives! Isn't Canberra something like 3 hours from Sydney?4hrs to the crags. Wasn't going there for the day....
You out around Sydney at the end of next week Jack??Na, I fly to New Zealand first thing tomorrow morning. Won't be back until late Oct.
Saw Dan yesterday - yeah apparently about 3hrs to the Granite around Canberra - they stayed over for a couple of days.How did I miss this...
Everything else localish I think. Dan said there seemed to be loads of undeveloped stuff around Sydney, still really good quality too. seems odd given the size of the place, must have a decent climbing population. All Jacks FA's were well soft too ;)
No probs, enjoy. A week on Saturday.
No probs, enjoy. A week on Saturday.
Try and get out to The Frontline if you can. Great crag.
Saw Dan yesterday - yeah apparently about 3hrs to the Granite around Canberra - they stayed over for a couple of days.How did I miss this...
Everything else localish I think. Dan said there seemed to be loads of undeveloped stuff around Sydney, still really good quality too. seems odd given the size of the place, must have a decent climbing population. All Jacks FA's were well soft too ;)
Cheeky bugger. First problem of mine he did, he upgraded... :tease:
Sydney, Canberra, Nowra, Central Coast.
http://vimeo.com/184125026
loved this. best honest film of good times on here for a while... can I just ask.. so many different rock types - are they all so accessible? really?? honest dumb question... amazing!!
Non quality, but Gecko assis barefoot:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7IpMG7VMo8Q
https://vimeo.com/184764724 (https://vimeo.com/184764724)
This is genius. The real essence of Font. Not those endless 'Thehouse' vids of folks effortlessly crushing, making me feel inadequate ;).
:jaw: :jaw: :jaw:
Made that look piss....Non quality, but Gecko assis barefoot:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7IpMG7VMo8Q
What the fuck?
:jaw: :jaw: :jaw:
Made that look piss....Non quality, but Gecko assis barefoot:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7IpMG7VMo8Q
as if that wasn't enough:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ljIyEOBxrA&feature=youtu.be
How hard is it? +B8?
Two thoughts here:
1. What the fuck! Hardest downclimb in the world?
2. He's walking/cycling in to the crag with shoes on? Fucking charlatan, back around.
Clearly wearing rock boots makes climbing harder.
Clearly wearing rock boots makes climbing harder.
(sorry for the very low quality!)
Is Fontainebleau becoming a crack climbing Mecca?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ERFGOCV1liw
well, not really.
but this problem is 4-5 stars in its niche: 7 meters long, glory handjams all the way, the ground is close so you can't swing but not close enough to make it feel ackward (unless you use a thick pad or have very long arms).
warning: prone to seepage, dries slowly, long walk in...but has a few very good non seeping non crack problems, 7a to 8a, 20 meters away.
(sorry for the very low quality!)
Is Fontainebleau becoming a crack climbing Mecca?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ERFGOCV1liw
well, not really.
but this problem is 4-5 stars in its niche: 7 meters long, glory handjams all the way, the ground is close so you can't swing but not close enough to make it feel ackward (unless you use a thick pad or have very long arms).
warning: prone to seepage, dries slowly, long walk in...but has a few very good non seeping non crack problems, 7a to 8a, 20 meters away.
Pure Line (https://bleau.info/telegraphe2/24271.html?locale=en): Font 7c and glory hand jams the whole way. What's the catch!?
Nice Will! Top on Juggernaut looks desperate :ninja:
Could use some drone footage or a timelapse.
Could use some drone footage or a timelapse.
The camera person was an old lady Lagers commandeered from the Ilkley tea hut... which may well qualify as being a drone and lapsed time...
Dan - is the top out heinous on this? (trying to picture it) as Tim scoots off right at the end?
Dan - is the top out heinous on this? (trying to picture it) as Tim scoots off right at the end?
Tim Palmer on Chiasmata at Almcliffe.
Might inspire people to try this mega line, arguably the best climbing at the cliff.
This is like asking if someone doing Hubble is going to top out up Body Machine.
This is like asking if someone doing Hubble is going to top out up Body Machine.
Piggotts Stride finishes at the ledge, you can choose whatever finish you want from there.
Tim Palmer on Chiasmata at Almcliffe.
Might inspire people to try this mega line, arguably the best climbing at the cliff.
I'm inspired. How many pads do you need - looks like he has a bunch. Def looks like Pigott's Stride direct start, the crux of which is probably the stride so you would be looking at a Severe top out...
"...arguably the best bouldering at the cliff."
I think he weights 57/58 kg
I think he weights 57/58 kg
How tall is he? If he's not a tiddler then that is crazily skinny.
Huh. Looking at him he didn't seem much shorter than me and im 5'11.
Huh. Looking at him he didn't seem much shorter than me and im 5'11.
Do people call you lanky? I'm 5'11 and I get all sorts of shit from the tiny.
hmm 5'10/11 is the funny height, its neither tall nor short. We get to lank sequences whilst not weighing that much, the best of both words. :2thumbsup:
5.11 my arse. You're about 7 ft tall and reach past all the hard moved. Quit ya whinging GulliverHuh. Looking at him he didn't seem much shorter than me and im 5'11.
Do people call you lanky? I'm 5'11 and I get all sorts of shit from the tiny.
lanky fuck
Huh. Looking at him he didn't seem much shorter than me and im 5'11.
Do people call you lanky? I'm 5'11 and I get all sorts of shit from the tiny.
.... just passing through.......... ears on fire.............
You're firmly in that camp, Will Hunt.
1. Even if Will was 5'11, that's quite tall.:agree:
2. I'm 6', take pride in being weak and lanky, and Will is at least as tall, if not taller, than me, probably with longer arms too.:agree:
Nice! So You Think You Can Dance looks like it climbs amazingly!
Nice videos Dave! That problem at the end isn't in Australia though, it's at Brimham...
that last problem looked ace!
My 3rd tribute to 'Peakoterica'
https://youtu.be/SeFxSO4HcBM
I made it through the first bit but must admit to skipping the school footage. Board climbing isn't the greatest spectator sport.
My main feeling from the footage was that I want to be strong like James.
Only minor quibble is the talking to the camera while driving makes me nervous :shrug:
anyone know if it has a name?
Dolly's Unsold PCs? ;)
It is a bit, but Highrider the 7B+ to the left is non-scary, excellent and crying out for a repeat (Ned's doesn't count as he climbs 8B+/C!).My 3rd tribute to 'Peakoterica'
https://youtu.be/SeFxSO4HcBM
Esoteric!
Elephant Moth Hawk looks terrifying!
Dolly's Unsold PCs? ;)
please let it be this
did this today with Dolly
the wall to the left of Where Bulldykes Daren't, avoiding the arete/crack to the left obviously
nice problem
probably Font 5
It's not on PB.info, but I assume it has been done before - anyone know if it has a name?
https://vimeo.com/200866302
https://vimeo.com/201422544
https://vimeo.com/201422544
Ace.
http://theshortspan.com/index.php/fitzgerald-repeats-wonderland-8b-and-soul-revolution-8b-on-the-same-day/
Wicklow
http://theshortspan.com/index.php/fitzgerald-repeats-wonderland-8b-and-soul-revolution-8b-on-the-same-day/
Wicklow
Didn't that happen a while back?
Much better than the first one for me, really enjoyed it. Looks like a great problem.
Enjoyed that one Dan, nice one! Keep 'em coming!
Thanks for the good feedback from the last video, still very much testing the water. So here is another one:
Good bit of 'Angry Dan' and some serious PUNTING.
Any feedback greatly appreciated.
basically what that lot said, especially volume levels.
And there BETTER be a follow up!
basically what that lot said, especially volume levels. And there BETTER be a follow up!
basically what that lot said, especially volume levels. And there BETTER be a follow up!
Yes with the volume its the range that is the problem
Nice one Dan.
Not volume related, but is there a reason behind the "Instagramesque" cuts in the ascent footage? It's a pet hate of mine, and since the ascent is only ~20 secs of a 5 min vid, a few more seconds so we could actually see all the moves and rhythm of the climb surely wouldn't impact? I understand when someones shaking out for ages, or is on easy ground near the top, but here it just seemed needless.
(I'm at work so haven't watched with the sound on - perhaps there's music syncing?)
Ah that makes sense - sorry for the time wasting!
Def not doubting!
Really appreciate you guys comments and tips, here is another one, managed to lay Bloodsport to rest at the weekend.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J9TLH-1Vv_Qbasically what that lot said, especially volume levels. And there BETTER be a follow up!
Yes with the volume its the range that is the problem
Is that any better with the audio levels?
had some random footage i didnt know what to do with so here it is, no fancy edits just some climbing mainly in wales.
had some random footage i didnt know what to do with so here it is, no fancy edits just some climbing mainly in wales.
Where and what is Zeno? Looks a great bit of rock
Effort Ducko, how hard is Zeno?
One thing some people have asked about is my garage board and board climbing in general, anyone be interested in a vlog about that? talk about angles, holds, structure and my experience?
One thing some people have asked about is my garage board and board climbing in general, anyone be interested in a vlog about that? talk about angles, holds, structure and my experience?
I'd be psyched to see a board VLog Dan! There aren't enough board climbing videos about I don't think.
that could be a good way of accumulating subscribers. Furthermore, it would allow me to enquire about how long you can one hand hang the smallest BM2K rung, without sounding too weird. :coffee:
Cool thanks.
Okay, thanks. Will line that one up, maybe do a bit of a board tour and how i structure my board sessions etc.that could be a good way of accumulating subscribers. Furthermore, it would allow me to enquire about how long you can one hand hang the smallest BM2K rung, without sounding too weird. :coffee:
Haha, considering I cant do a one armer or a proper front level, it could be a bit sh*t. You should of seen me trying to hang the BM2K rung with weight in the other hand the other day at the depot, i dry fired and nearly lost my balls.
This will be part 1 of 9. New one each week covering some of the new stuff we've done locally in the last 2 years.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ddsny1JWVZU&t=76s
I am really enjoying the vlogs from Dan Turner (apart from the shitty music). Keep them up please!
This will be part 1 of 9. New one each week covering some of the new stuff we've done locally in the last 2 years.
Good question. :)This will be part 1 of 9. New one each week covering some of the new stuff we've done locally in the last 2 years.
Why you stopping at 9 then?
Thanks. Yeha music is pretty annoying to find any artist that allow you to use music on youtube video without getting your video taken down, any advice would be awesome.
You used to be able to slow the sound down by a few % and that would trick the detection of stolen music. Not sure if that still works mind!
Thanks. Yeha music is pretty annoying to find any artist that allow you to use music on youtube video without getting your video taken down, any advice would be awesome.
You used to be able to slow the sound down by a few % and that would trick the detection of stolen music. Not sure if that still works mind!
Or just don't steal the music in the first place. Would you walk into HMV (if they still exist?) and steal a CD?
Vimeo used to have a library of music which was free to use as long as it's attributed etc. That's gone now but on their page about it is some links to other places you might find some:
https://help.vimeo.com/hc/en-us/articles/236022047-Music-Store?flash_digest=76bd90a86d14e072b813f1a4e7e7b52820ec491f
just don't steal the music in the first place.
Vimeo used to have a library of music which was free to use as long as it's attributed etc. That's gone now but on their page about it is some links to other places you might find some:
https://help.vimeo.com/hc/en-us/articles/236022047-Music-Store?flash_digest=76bd90a86d14e072b813f1a4e7e7b52820ec491f (https://help.vimeo.com/hc/en-us/articles/236022047-Music-Store?flash_digest=76bd90a86d14e072b813f1a4e7e7b52820ec491f)
Used to be a brilliant feature that, even allowed you to filter by genre, length etc as well. No idea why they inexplicably canned it but seems a weird decision, especially as its easy of use (for me at least) positively encouraged the use of music that was OK to use on your vids.
Essentially they appear to be tied to a business model of trying to sell fewer items at a larger margin and make their money that way, rather than sell way more at a lower margin.
Essentially they appear to be tied to a business model of trying to sell fewer items at a larger margin and make their money that way, rather than sell way more at a lower margin.
Isn't this the exact model that the stock photography industry went for? i.e. "micro stock"? Frankly I would hate to see the music industry go down that route.
just don't steal the music in the first place.
:agree:
I'd be pretty fucking livid if I found out that a band had used my footage to make a music video, especially if they'd tilted it a bit or mirrored it to stop the site that hosted it detecting that it was mine. I'd be even angrier if there were comments praising them for it or asking them to reveal who they'd ripped it off from.
I'd be pretty fucking livid if I found out that a band had used my footage to make a music video...
I'd think it was bloody brilliant. But them I'm a rank amateur, and have no financial incentive behind any of it.
Cheers! I'll make sure to set that for my vids.
I'd be pretty fucking livid if I found out that a band had used my footage to make a music video...
I'd think it was bloody brilliant. But them I'm a rank amateur, and have no financial incentive behind any of it.
Which illustrates the difference between musicians who allow their music to be used by anyone free of charge and those who don't. Looking at your last video it isn't set as having a Creative Commons licence- if you sort that out people will know you're cool with it.
Switched to editing on premiere pro... think it much better than final cut but more time consuming. interested to know what others use/think???
Does anyone actually climb Black Crow from sitting?
Does anyone actually climb Black Crow from sitting?
Yes. Why not? It's not a totally trivial move. Next you'll be saying people do undercuts-to-crimp/sloper at the Tor starting matched on the undercuts ;)
Part 2 of 9
https://youtu.be/dZD2iPCceqE
By the way I didn't figure out where the creative commons setting was at, any ideas?
Good Catch. Time to go back...
4.00 Dab. Round again... :P
I'm liking these vids Todd. :thumbsup:
What does the stand start on (handhold wise)?
Nice. Must be some pretty minging holds for a short vert!
Is there a topo/directions?
Is there a topo/directions?
NEW vlog.
Fright of the Bumblebee looks amazing!
This is easily the best projecting film I've seen. Nalle should have taken note.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GUhUgBxF5AQ
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwMmiy5TalaTNU40V3M4Q3VjNFk/view
I will just leave this here.
This is easily the best projecting film I've seen.
I asked on a Facebook group for New England boulderers. Apparently it's on private land and the boulders therefore aren't written up anywhere. You need to ask a local. I think the grade is in the V9/10 ballpark.
A week in Swiss escaping the dampness of the forest
https://vimeo.com/209518559
A week in Swiss escaping the dampness of the forest
https://vimeo.com/209518559
Refreshing to see someone take a personal grade for Special Edition rather than jumping on the 8A bandwagon.
Missed a week of vlogging, mainly due to the weather and being in a grump.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NxLQaYFFP-g
Anyway, this one is about Pinch 32 SS (8A+) at Baildon Bank, Katzy problem thats only seen one repeat and no video of, so might interest people. Nearly repeated all katzy Yorkshire boulder now....
P.S this boulder basically dry instantly, not the great setting but might be worth bearing in mind for a marginal day.
Thanks y'all.
Yeah it is a good one.
Panasonic GH4 with a variety of lens (mainly 12-35mm) and video mic or NTG2. Time lapse stuff on IPhone
Another one; Trying Starpower at High Crag. (Pleased with this one)
Nodders new one in NW. Very good!
QuoteNodders new one in NW. Very good!
Has this been reported anywhere?
QuoteNodders new one in NW. Very good!
Has this been reported anywhere?
I am pretty sure it was on NW bouldering when he did it, and there is a picture kicking around of him on it somewhere but it seems pretty hard to find now. If it wasn't reported I am not sure why as it seems to be one of the best for the grade in NW.
Sometime ago there was a mid grade font mini movie posted on this thread but I cany seem to find it. Pretty sure it was about 15-20mins long. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Apologies for vagueness!
An old project in the Pass goes down
http://youtu.be/8x-_tp3G5UE (http://youtu.be/8x-_tp3G5UE)
An old project in the Pass goes down
http://youtu.be/8x-_tp3G5UE (http://youtu.be/8x-_tp3G5UE)
Best vid in ages
Effort boyo!
Effort boyo!
Fearing for my anal virginity on that arête!
An old project in the Pass goes down
http://youtu.be/8x-_tp3G5UE (http://youtu.be/8x-_tp3G5UE)
An old project in the Pass goes down
http://youtu.be/8x-_tp3G5UE (http://youtu.be/8x-_tp3G5UE)
That is class, the boulder, the climbing, the music, the narration.An old project in the Pass goes down
http://youtu.be/8x-_tp3G5UE (http://youtu.be/8x-_tp3G5UE)
Belongs in the Quality section - top stuff. The successful attempt looked so easy :D
Just one thing what happened in session 2?
Classic! That's dedication/commitment, give the man a medal for his endeavours!
Just one thing what happened in session 2?
A miracle occurred and he went on his own. Only stuck the first move a few times he said.
The Greek being the worlds hardest 6c or is that just me?
A couple of problems from a day on the Pill Box this winter. The Greek being the worlds hardest 6c or is that just me? Also that vid was great Doylo.Beautiful video!
Watch this video on Vimeo: https://vimeo.com/201512512. Don’t have the Vimeo app? Get it from the App Store: http://bit.ly/vimeo_is
Now then. If anyone fancies watching it I've uploaded a short 5minute vid of bouldering at Eskdale. Be warned this is all Font 4-6a so no screaming will be heard and all layers of clothing are worn. Cheers - https://vimeo.com/213162622
Another one from the east weekend. This is practically a short film, so sorry about that, but its still a third the length of the Lappnor Project but with six times the number of problems! A little bit of NSFW language if you work somewhere lame.
https://youtu.be/PlIOtpj1YnI
Moving well there Lagers...
Dear me times have changed. Where's Shark to tell us this nu-school clever dick sequence doesn't count?
Strong claim! Certainly looks the part and the guide is great but surely would need a good spread of grades to claim that title? Maybe best venue in the UK for those climbing 7c?
Inspiring climbing, terrible camera work and a disappointing lack of dabbage. Good effort Dom!
http://vimeo.com/215490450
of High Adventure belonging to The Day? I don't get it.
Is that to me? 'Bad Brains' is a band if that makes more sense
FAKE NEWS!
For any Klem dog fans who missed the post on the crag thread:
Nice work Todd! Really enjoyed these...
not me, and not even my footage
Big Ed filmed himself using a phone wedged in a shoe - which, everyone knows, is the only way to corroborate ascents
Art Of Japan
You can can use the sidepull (chalked but unused by his right shoulder in the video above.)not me, and not even my footage
Big Ed filmed himself using a phone wedged in a shoe - which, everyone knows, is the only way to corroborate ascents
Art Of Japan
How big is Big Ed? Any useful shorties (5ft5ish) beta for this one? Couldn't get near it the other day!
For any Klem dog fans who missed the post on the crag thread:
Also big up JB for actually doing the bird song sound track :2thumbsup:
I've put this together as I stopped filming things lately and still had quite a bit of footage lying around. Definitely non-quality, but there's some good climbing in it :)
Simon De Haas
You can can use the sidepull (chalked but unused by his right shoulder in the video above.)not me, and not even my footage
Big Ed filmed himself using a phone wedged in a shoe - which, everyone knows, is the only way to corroborate ascents
Art Of Japan
How big is Big Ed? Any useful shorties (5ft5ish) beta for this one? Couldn't get near it the other day!
What Turnip said (nice to meet you in passing the other evening btw).
+ All grades are covered from 4+ up on other blocs, the big one above superbloc is non-tidal so you can climb all day if you wish. Afternoon and evening low tides are the best for things drying out (struggles to dry in the morning). When it is wet around the boulders here the ground is literally frictionless.
What Turnip said (nice to meet you in passing the other evening btw).
+ All grades are covered from 4+ up on other blocs, the big one above superbloc is non-tidal so you can climb all day if you wish. Afternoon and evening low tides are the best for things drying out (struggles to dry in the morning). When it is wet around the boulders here the ground is literally frictionless.
Cheers both
Another vlog for those interested. This time it's from the ever popular Tintagel, Cornwall. Also featuring the second ascent of Merlin's Beard (8B)
https://youtu.be/wL_qg3_qsPk
Enjoy
Boss video again. Love it down at Tintaginal.
Anyone happen to know if Merlin's Beard into Arthur could be a thing?
Looks like it would be a pretty meaty problem if so.
That looks very atmospheric in the dark! I was up there last weekend with some directions from a few people here, awesome problem! My sequence at the top pretty scrappy though.
Another vlog for those interested. This time it's from the ever popular Tintagel, Cornwall. Also featuring the second ascent of Merlin's Beard (8B)
https://youtu.be/wL_qg3_qsPk
Enjoy
It official Tintagel has become that popular you can now walk in naked and not come out with so much as a scratch!
Apparently!
Boss video again. Love it down at Tintaginal.
There's an approach that avoids the spikey gully. Just walk further along the coastal path to a wooden post and follow a path back on yourself. Possibly a little dodgy as fairly near the cliff edge.
Anyone happen to know if Merlin's Beard into Arthur could be a thing?
Looks like it would be a pretty meaty problem if so.
It's in the Perth Hills, Western Australia. WA isn't known for its good climbing, but there are a few gems to be found, it just takes a bit of effort to find things.
Welcome to the Meds Cave. A new bouldering destination hidden in the hills behind Cheddar Gorge. Here are two prescriptions with more to follow. As with any videos involving the now exiled Three Nine, user discretion advised if at a place of work or operating heavy machinery.
https://youtu.be/VMk5-xwLnUM
Short video of some great bouldering hidden in the Aberglaslyn woods, featuring the classic "Super crack"
The question marked hold out is a dish you slap out to with your left hand
:ninja:Short video of some great bouldering hidden in the Aberglaslyn woods, featuring the classic "Super crack"
Good little boulder that one. Was there a week ago Sunday. Didn't think of your go again right hand to higher part of crack and crossed over into it with a high left foot, quite spicy either way!
The question marked hold out is a dish you slap out to with your left hand (pressing from from the second part of the crack), then you yard to the top direct for a burly 7B.
Some Yorkshire limestone exploration from last year. Can get midgey!
http://vimeo.com/218294178
Very much on the non-quality end of the spectrum:
https://vimeo.com/219420330
but a really great problem is the Red Clover sitstart moves then climb up the prow into the start holds of Gene then finish up this, which is about 7c and knockout.
Interesting - I did this many years ago around the same time as Tombstone in Cheddar - didn't feel much different IIRC. That said, I'm pretty sure we did the big move in the middle from a LH sidepull rather than what looks like decent undercuts - these may have appeared since?
Decent problem anyway
https://vimeo.com/222483027I enjoyed the varied mix on that vid , FA's, a classic hard yorkshire problem and a few climbs I can't ever recall seeing on video before.
We tried Hacienda last year and thought it was one of those that looked better than it is. Basically all the way up your right hand is in a crack which when climbed on it's own is a few grades lower than Hacienda. Which kind of makes Hacienda in effect a bit eliminate. Plus we got shut down on it, and you know how problems you get shut down on are shit?
Remember where I come from eliminate is a complement.:lol:
Ru's Traverse Font 8A at Griff's Buttress
https://vimeo.com/223406786 (https://vimeo.com/223406786)
Wow, what time did you climb this Ted? One in the morning?
Wow, what time did you climb this Ted? One in the morning?
The video file says 9:20pm.
http://vimeo.com/223560859
Climbs like a Willackers/John Dunne hybrid ;)
Climbs like a Willackers/John Dunne hybrid ;)
Can't decide if that's complimentary or insulting :-\ :lol:
Thanks, I think.
Climbs like a Willackers/John Dunne hybrid ;)
Can't decide if that's complimentary or insulting :-\ :lol:
Thanks, I think.
:) dynamic and reachy....
Apologies for the poor camera work and the absolute bangers...
yeah unfortunately the camera was off for any bowderstone ticking :doubt: cheers murph!Apologies for the poor camera work and the absolute bangers...
...and the lack of Bowderstone sendage!?
Good work coops you're smashing it these days!
Thought I would try and do something a little different with footage from this years Rocklands trip so I put together this. Everything featured is new, not in the guide or a first ascent to avoid boring people with the same old classics (saving them for a boring classics vid). Also experimented with colour grading a little so any feedback is welcome.
http://vimeo.com/229376643
Cheers Dan, appreciate the feedback!
Im pretty clueless myself about most of this stuff, filming off a lx100 in 1080p mp4. The other video that I'm also currently editing i've used a much more toned down approach so will be interesting to hear what you prefer. Was persuaded by the opening shot (driving through the valley) that the video may suit a more pumped up approach but there's definitely some shots where i struggled to make it look natural enough. Filming in a flat profile is definitely something I will do in the future, noticed it makes life a ton easier! Time of day also (although unfortunately im always going to go when it's best to climb rather than when it's best to film), maybe I'll invest in a reflector so climbing in the shade isnt such an issue!
Advanced Training V10
Nice one. That foot looks dreadful though. :sick: Shame you didn't have the drone with you to show that peninsula.
Great video Dan, glad to see it back. Would have been interested to know a bit more about how you managed to crock yourself!
Enjoyed both Dan, think the colours came out better on vimeo? might just be me though.
Whats Vastervik like in the 6's? worth a trip? I'm guessing you're not going to recommend Lufthansa, but did you drive from Stockholm or can you fly anywhere closer?
Enjoyed both Dan, think the colours came out better on vimeo? might just be me though.
Whats Vastervik like in the 6's? worth a trip? I'm guessing you're not going to recommend Lufthansa, but did you drive from Stockholm or can you fly anywhere closer?
New One.
Includes footage of Little Women at Kentmere, not sure if there any footage of this anywhere, so might spark some interest.
That's his hand, not the rock. Likewise it's chalk not rock dust.
Fucking limestone eh?
"I was able to hike out and drive to care, but sustained broken fibula, laceration (6 stitches), partial tear of tendon, a nasty scrape and a decent bruise."
Nice one chris.
I have another addition, one of Jack floating along Pilgrim in the cave yesterday. Described as looking like he was 'climbing on the moon'. Impressive stuff.
https://vimeo.com/247638763
Nice one chris.
I have another addition, one of Jack floating along Pilgrim in the cave yesterday. Described as looking like he was 'climbing on the moon'. Impressive stuff.
https://vimeo.com/247638763
Great video. Total pleasure to watch this guy climb in the cave. Surgical precision.
Nice! Liturgy looks like a great problem and more old school e5 6c to my untrained eye. That dynamic move at the end of the rising traverse looked mega.Thanks Dan, I had a play on a rope first - spooky move. If you fancy a go with few extra pads I can let you know when I go back, most likely sometime in the Spring once I've cleaned / dug off the top of another highball there.
I've been working on a bit of a lofi film about Ned and his board- there's a clip below. Should be up some point in the next week or two!
Board climbing, not sure if this is the best place to post, but for those interested.I've been following your vids Dan, great stuff, particularly like the board one, some more training ones would be great - core? Cheers
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=obu_cMOfkzc&t=3s
Nice! Liturgy looks like a great problem and more old school e5 6c to my untrained eye. That dynamic move at the end of the rising traverse looked mega.Thanks Dan, I had a play on a rope first - spooky move. If you fancy a go with few extra pads I can let you know when I go back, most likely sometime in the Spring once I've cleaned / dug off the top of another highball there.
I've been working on a bit of a lofi film about Ned and his board- there's a clip below. Should be up some point in the next week or two!
Been enjoying your edits recently, and looking forward to the full Ned one. Remember to post in the quality thread this time!Board climbing, not sure if this is the best place to post, but for those interested.I've been following your vids Dan, great stuff, particularly like the board one, some more training ones would be great - core? Cheers
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=obu_cMOfkzc&t=3s
Put up a new DWS line yesterday. Not difficult but a no fall line due to a hefty boulder right where you'd land.
Didn't help that the bottom third was wet........
Cleaned it last week but was too rough to have a go at.
http://vimeo.com/249911890
(https://i.imgur.com/bfDzZwH.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/u5pjvlU.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ev8NVW5.jpg)
Failed mission to the Peak.
Question to Raven Tor locals/ Fat Lip ascentionists.
1. Has it been responsibly dry at the Tor this winter? and do you think it will dry back after the rain last week.
[quote author=turnipturned link=topic=6407.msg561729#msg561729
Hey Dave, nice vlog and psyche. I have no knowledge about the second point and haven't been to the Tor since November but I would imagine it won't be drying back significantly until the end of February. I understand this rule of thumb has been incorrect in the past but I think your vid shows a typical picture for Jan.I hope this helps!
Hey Dave,
Looks wicked that. Sounds more like an "S" line than a DWS line though!
Looks great Jack
*I know this sounds a bit lame, but be great if you can subscribe, youtube are taking away some features if you don't have 1k subs ::)
Yeah maybe, but I do try not to bombard people with the same shit. Food for thought.
Here is another video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xFsmgIVs03M&t=29s
Took a punt on a good forecast and went to Bowden, really wanted to try The rail. I can confirm is extremely hard and well impressive achievement for Varian. Anyone else tried it? (Couple of other bits of footage including Born Lippy and V crimps direct)
Thanks for sharing Dan. Love those full days out.
Having a wee think about your drive to increase subscribers. You could see if UKC will feature one of your vlogs. They have a lot of exposure.
I've studied a few of the popular climbing vlogs (magnus, Mani the Monkey (wtf!?), Matt Groom). Based on their popular videos I've got these suggestions for future videos. Training tips for beginners, a one armed muscle up, be a 9b beast, name drop some famous climbers in your title
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jn_EuLb_5Cc
- take your top off a lot and do a video called Two Girls One Armed Pullup (unbelievably this title hasn't been used yet). And do all this without selling out.
You're welcome.
its a very good day if I can do a one armer!
Regarding the training ones, I have done a couple, but I watch them back and find them pretty cringey.
This thread of late::clap2:
https://youtu.be/fOad90BvvjM?t=1m9s
Your stuff is good Dan—I hope you get over the 1k mark. On the topic of youtube and climbing, the recent explosion of filming everyday stuff at the wall type channels is interesting. They seem to be incredibly popular, and although I don't count myself as a snob WRT the great indoors (it is great), titles like 'Today the krew is climbing outside' bemuse me.
I assume it's possible to make at least a little money if you've in the order of 10s of thousands of views per day. Is that the goal you have in mind?
I just want to document British rock climbing (bouldering) better and also the kind of process you have to go through to climb hard (ish) boulders in the UK. I found myself getting into the mindset that climbing hard is only for elite and professional climbers who have 'more time' etc. Actually its not, its the one thing that really makes climbing/bouldering unique as a performance sport, that there is nothing stopping anyone from trying the same problems as professionals or getting to that level (especially in terms of rock climbing).
Its sounds a bit cliched but if I can inspire people to get out there, do more, try harder then thats awesome. I would feel like I have contributed a bit more to the sport.
Your stuff is good Dan—I hope you get over the 1k mark. On the topic of youtube and climbing, the recent explosion of filming everyday stuff at the wall type channels is interesting. They seem to be incredibly popular, and although I don't count myself as a snob WRT the great indoors (it is great), titles like 'Today the krew is climbing outside' bemuse me.
I assume it's possible to make at least a little money if you've in the order of 10s of thousands of views per day. Is that the goal you have in mind?
Thanks appreciate it.
No not really. Funny, had this conversation with a few people, "whats my motivation for making these videos". It is certainly not about making money (I have a good job that I absolutely love and equally as enthusiastic about).
I just want to document British rock climbing (bouldering) better and also the kind of process you have to go through to climb hard (ish) boulders in the UK. I found myself getting into the mindset that climbing hard is only for elite and professional climbers who have 'more time' etc. Actually its not, its the one thing that really makes climbing/bouldering unique as a performance sport, that there is nothing stopping anyone from trying the same problems as professionals or getting to that level (especially in terms of rock climbing).
Its sounds a bit clique but if I can inspire people to get out there, do more, try harder then thats awesome. I would feel like I have contributed a bit more to the sport.
I think the vids are great Dan and I've just subscribed, something I've never done. Keep it up.
I know there is a lot of dads on here, so here is katzyrepresenting and smashing out Working Class.totally nullifying your "but I've got kids"excuses...
We have reached peak Fiend
In these #insta #fistbump days it's refreshing to know that there's still a few characters out there.
We have reached peak Fiend
Don't speak too soon...
Strong look fiend. This is a bit of low quality diy home processed film taken earlier this year at slipstones.
https://vimeo.com/257152953
Dan, how tall is the geez in that vid who reaches the good part of the arete with his feet still low? I'm wondering if I could have done that. I was stepping onto a marginal smear on the arete and quickly getting a right toe into the thin slot before slapping left hand up. Reaching past that would make it loads easier. Can you still take 7B+ for that...?
Dan, how tall is the geez in that vid who reaches the good part of the arete with his feet still low?
Some fat bumbly doing some easy things:
Dan, how tall is the geez in that vid who reaches the good part of the arete with his feet still low? I'm wondering if I could have done that. I was stepping onto a marginal smear on the arete and quickly getting a right toe into the thin slot before slapping left hand up. Reaching past that would make it loads easier. Can you still take 7B+ for that...?
Whatcho talking about Willis? Lay by is essentially a one mover, getting the crimp on the arête, any which way to get into position to try that move is about 5A.
Damn, I must be shitter than I'd feared.
Me and some psyched fella at Pant Ifan last weekend
https://youtu.be/P-b_sh5bFtQ
Me and some psyched fella at Pant Ifan last weekend
Superb! Trying to wad, but wad button having malfunction! Wall creep looks class.
That’s how I nearly do it :) (barndoored past the high RH hold). Doesnt look like a tall way to me...
For what it's worth I agree with the above. Really like the way the video footage turns to a still and then is seen on the board with you looking at it. Was expecting and hoping this would happen with each of the videos shown.
Macca
Where's 'Strong Arete'?
Good stuff Haydn.
Dawid came up with a name for the Sean's Roof line. He called it Naughty Corner. He guessed 7C+, but I see you thought it was a bit easier.
Where's 'Strong Arete'?
Eskdale granite.
https://vimeo.com/121886233
visible at the end - and chalked, is this you turnipted?).
just after I'd hit peak caffeine but with not enough food so had major plot loss
NTBTA - never been brave enough to try that, but the crux is pulling on, right? A few moves up and it gets a lot easier? Really must get round to it some day...
Two fingery moves then heel hook to glory (and a bit of a rockover to finish)Thanks for the beta. Sound simple.
I'll go and do it with you Murph.Nice one! Yeah let's get it done. The grit will dry out one day soon...
https://youtu.be/XJhibrjekoQquite possibly the best thing I have ever seen
https://youtu.be/XJhibrjekoQquite possibly the best thing I have ever seen
I liked that; although, I am slightly confused. It was like being tipsy in the company of people all enjoying a private joke you are not party to. Laughing along, as although you don't fully understand the matter, you still find the mood and antics utterly hilarious, and are reassured it's not at your expense.
I thought it was great, though I guess it assumed a certain familiarity with JR and his oeuvre.
This is all ignoring the important question, how dry was the main cliff?
I thought it was great, though I guess it assumed a certain familiarity with JR and his oeuvre.
This is all ignoring the important question, how dry was the main cliff?
Soggy, snappy choss
I was enjoying that until I got blinded by Crouch's board tan.
Looks great. Where is it?
https://youtu.be/CIrdN07PmZM
Here are 4 problems from Griff's Buttress in the Peak.
I fucking love the handshake with Shark, so quintessentially British!
Here are 4 problems from Griff's Buttress in the Peak.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=kns356MSRzM (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kns356MSRzM)
No problem Murph, glad you enjoyed the vid.
I used to upload my stuff to Vimeo but they recently introduced an annual payment which I'm not psyched on. At least Youtube is free.
And thanks for glueing that hold back on dude. Just like new.
Which hold came off?
A couple from Norway.
https://vimeo.com/287772430
Here are another 5 from Sean's Roof. Hopefully useful for beta.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=C_I1-WG2Sl4 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C_I1-WG2Sl4)
Its to get the redpoint psyche going! :smirk:
No way Ted! Keep it real man, don’t start dolly-ing round the cave and calling yourself TK productions.
There are still gaps at the cliff for the strong and blinkered like a shire horse. #believe
Probably a bit too much padding, so stuck it in this one.
Probably a bit too much padding, so stuck it in this one.
too much fucking awful unwatchably choppy editing.
Probably a bit too much padding, so stuck it in this one.
https://vimeo.com/288778198
Lovely bit of localism Gaz - you seem to have found some really great stuff. Some of the rock appears to be sandstone?
It’s me, I was fully ready to spot then jump!
And the braces.
only disturbed by the warp transition mid film
Takes me back to being at uni and heading to burbage with my bro in the mid 90s.
only disturbed by the warp transition mid film
Ah, I thought I had changed that change in angle to a fade to black and back in again. Looks like I didn't save the change before rendering.
here is a cracking boulder from Dan Varian........and Ian Taylor.
What's the knowledge for pulling off the deck on Shieldmaiden? The video seems to skip that bit. Is it a heel? I found the stand up pretty steady but got shutdown by the problem on the left.
To Be is not to Bolt (never seen a vid of this before)
To Be is not to Bolt (never seen a vid of this before)
Think they do it in either Shock of the New or Consumed don't they?
To Be is not to Bolt (never seen a vid of this before)
Think they do it in either Shock of the New or Consumed don't they?
It's in Shock of the New. Ben did it this/last year and it looks good, if not a bit sharp at the start. I think Dan and SotN go direct at the top, staying on the left of the rib. Ben moved slightly right to the other side of the rib after standing in the pocket. Probably both steady-but-scary?
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamesaturnbull/46355064411/in/datetaken/
Desperado, Gimmerknowe
Ha, weird ain’t it, only seems to do it when I edit some clips and not others some other videos of mine have done the same thing :???:might be the video editor you use. I used a free one that kept doing that, I switched to another and it fixed the job.
I looked at the GoPro Hero7 White, but there were some negatives (frame size 1440 not 1080
Lovely Highrepute.
I am definitely liking the no music videos, captures the moment so much more.
I looked at the GoPro Hero7 White, but there were some negatives (frame size 1440 not 1080
Hi Dan, really like the videos. Can you tell me what camera you use for your vlog please? Thanks. Jon
Good vid as always. Best single boulder though? Not a chance.
Good vid as always. Best single boulder though? Not a chance.
Name me better?
Good vid as always. Best single boulder though? Not a chance.
Name me better?
What do the ‘athletes’ call them?
Cheers.
Mixture, older videos where Panasonic GH4 and Lx10. Last 6month predominately GH5. Also recently use a atomos shogun as an external recorder! Hope that’s helps! (Recommend GH4)
Myself and Dan climbing some new stuff at Back Bowden. Second problem is extremely cool
https://vimeo.com/308608206
As far as Vlogs go, I think this is my best one. Trying to get better at climbing this year, especially slabs. Ascent of Marrowbone Jelly and a couple of slabs. ENJOY!
https://youtu.be/pKiU-8iO6n4
Sharkenjoyingscaring himself
Ooh... great spot Highrepute. Looks great - an almost replica bouldering wall dimensions! And (for me most importantly) only 50 min from Hull according to google (which may make it the closest..)
It's a nice little spot and the problems are decent! Plenty of tricky stuff to go at.
20 minutes drive (in the wrong direction for home) from my place of work. So i might check it out on a summer evening sometime this year. Looks good.
Any potential for a best boulder in there Dan? Maybe a Lancashire lowballing vlog might get the juices flowing. Winky emoji included 😉
https://youtu.be/G3pwIEqKaDs
Enjoyed this little edit
From the YouTube description..
"Church crag a little tucked away buttress in the village of Wentbridge. I first discovered the crag in May whilst out walking with the family then to my surprise after posting a picture on Instagram some kind gent passed on the details. Social media does have its place in the world I guess. It’s taken me 9 months to get all the stand up lines done. Which has been massively rewarding having to work out all the beta from scratch. This edit doesn’t do any justice to the amount of time I have put into getting the problems done. Gulivers Travels was anything between 300-400 goes"
Any potential for a best boulder in there Dan? Maybe a Lancashire lowballing vlog might get the juices flowing. Winky emoji included 😉
Yeah I struggled this week.... is this the best snow proof boulder.... :-\
LOL! Two pads aye, that's all I own, and I have no friends.
I did abseil and clean it first, a bit of lichen and flakiness, but didn't chalk nor pull on the holds.
E3 6b ish in old money maybe?
FA (I think), different game. Wouldn't want any potential repeaters to have to deal with flakiness and lichen.
Made a few videos recently, if people are interested. Two lovely boulders. https://youtu.be/txTIx58vVSA
Detest? Jeez remind me never to upset you
...the "Playing music at the crag hall of shame" if such a thing existed...
Made a few videos recently, if people are interested. Two lovely boulders. https://youtu.be/txTIx58vVSA
A few nice problems from a trip to the North York Moors. Nothing hard, just some of nicer 7Aish problems done whilst touring around the area for a few days. Lovely part of the world.Where are the last 2 problems, I can’t seem to find them in the guide.
http://youtu.be/SgLooKtWew4
Two great problems from the County last week.
https://vimeo.com/327447313
A few nice problems from a trip to the North York Moors. Nothing hard, just some of nicer 7Aish problems done whilst touring around the area for a few days. Lovely part of the world.Where are the last 2 problems, I can’t seem to find them in the guide.
http://youtu.be/SgLooKtWew4
Cool light in the bottom clip. Is that just with the worklights seen in the top clip?
Can PM you the bonus reel with all that in if your, errr, friend likes??
Brutal, hard, long, and complicated. Good stuff. And it tops out through a jungle!
Yeah it was originally done swinging feet over onto the side wall once you got the left hand jug but this seems to make more sense to me.
On the stoney theme, problem between bubbles start and whatever the fuck. Couple of years ago
https://thelifetimeesotericticklist.wordpress.com/2019/04/27/stoney-haiku/
Think Dave did Bewilderness a whole ago?
Good stuff, ticked the crag!
Enjoyed a couple of days at Kilnsey recently, seemed to stay dry even with all the rain we've had.
Practically a highball for us of shorter stature
Well it isn't that big and I guess there's a reasonable amount of limb :lol:
Nice one Coops, good line. Not nearly enough compression tho?!I know, think only two of the moves involved compression :look:
I only wish I could show you the expression of confused horror that was writ across my wife's face when I showed her the last minute of this.
You ever done any of the routes there?
Thanks all!
It's a proud line for sure. Cool holds, cool moves, aesthetic, etc. Definitely a 5-star line. Such a process getting through the whole thing. Should've finished it a month ago, but dryfires and skin issues kept me from sending.
Lagers - There are two versions of the stand. Meathooking the arete was the original beta. In trying the sit, I couldn't get into the meathook position, so I figured out the big right hand move. My friend who did the stand from there couldn't get the original meathook beta to work for him. It's a really subtle move with the meathook.
Meathook = guppy I thinkI can’t see anyone guppying in the video.
I can’t see anyone guppying in the video.
Meathook = guppy I thinkIf you are a vegetarian how do you do these moves :-\
Getting this thread back on course to its origins. Theo going round in circles in Tom's roof. Proper climbing.That’s more like it! Doesn’t he use an out of bounds foot on Fig of 8... :whip:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IdueETtTmr8&feature=youtu.be
Getting this thread back on course to its origins. Theo going round in circles in Tom's roof. Proper climbing.That’s more like it! Doesn’t he use an out of bounds foot on Fig of 8... :whip:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IdueETtTmr8&feature=youtu.be
after getting the pinch, he appears to smear with his R foot to the R of the only foothold. Could be a trick if the light...Getting this thread back on course to its origins. Theo going round in circles in Tom's roof. Proper climbing.That’s more like it! Doesn’t he use an out of bounds foot on Fig of 8... :whip:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IdueETtTmr8&feature=youtu.be
Interesting! Which one?
after getting the pinch, he appears to smear with his R foot to the R of the only foothold. Could be a trick if the light...Getting this thread back on course to its origins. Theo going round in circles in Tom's roof. Proper climbing.That’s more like it! Doesn’t he use an out of bounds foot on Fig of 8... :whip:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IdueETtTmr8&feature=youtu.be
Interesting! Which one?
I wondered who had been on all natural! Wolfrey looks ace.
READ THIS - TIMESTAMPS BELOW!
1. This video just features myself climbing. If that's not palatable, try focusing on the problems and scenery ;).
2. I chose problems that appealed to me, whether due to line, aesthetics, movement, personal challenge, situation, etc, they should all be good ones though.
3. I was mostly exploring on my own (I don't have enough friends for a send-train bellend pad party ;)), so have sometimes avoided highballs with nightmare landings.
4. I have leg issues so I've avoided a few classic areas due to their mountaineering walk-ins.
5. Some problems required a fair bit of cleaning and chalking. I brushed off my tickmarks after I left and the occasional Snowdonia rain showers should do the rest.
6. Grades given are the guidebook ones, with occasional suggestions. All +/- two grades, of course. The highball (!) rating seems equally experimental, but the star ratings are invariably well-deserved.
AREAS AND PROBLEMS:
Tal Y Fan: 0:36
Megalith 7A **
Asterix 6B/+ **
Crafnant: 2:03
Breakaway 6A **
Frostbite 6C+ **
Riley's Arete 6C+ **
Rhiw Goch: 3:43
Gap Of Rohan 6C **
Plas Y Brenin Boulders: 4:24
Eat The Rich 6C **
Clogwyn Y Bustach: 5:21
Superglue, Now 6C+ (6C?) *
Fagin 7A **
Bill Psyches 6C ***
Caeddafydd: 7:28
Gav's Arete 6B **
The Groove 6A **
Carreg Hyll Drem: 9:00
Spiderman Direct 6A+! ** (6A+)
Spiderpig 7A! *** (7A)
Nant Y Fedw: 10:26
This Hoover Sucks 6B+ **
JC4PM 7A (6C+?) **
Tan Y Grisiau: 11:55
Minecraft Wall 6C **
Bendigeidfran 6B ***
Tempest 7A *** (6C/+! ?)
The Sidings: 14:25
Pen Crwban Llaw Dde 6C+ **
Hogleuon Personol 6B+ *
Craig Peniel: 15:52
Inkerman 7A+! ***
Carreg Yr Ogof: 17:03
Addicted To The Shindig 6B+ **
Ching Along Aling 6C (6B+?) *
Blood Scream 6C! ***
Black Rhino - Supercrack: 19:17
Supercrack 7A (6C+?) ***
Pant Ifan: 20:20
American Monster Crack 7A *** (7A+? / 5.12 / Wide Boyz HVS 5b)
Smearcats 6A ***
Cwm Pennant: 21:53
Cottage Arete LH 6C (6C+?) **
Cottage Arete RH 6C **
Ultimate Warrior stand 6C+ (6C?) **
Beddgelert Forest - Shocker: 24:36
Birthday Arete sds 6B+ **
Ug's Wall sds 6C+ **
Beddgelert Forest - Hidden Gold: 26:28
Hidden Gold 6B+ ***
Rib Crackin' 7A **
Fontainefawr / Parc Dudley: 28:52
The Fooster 7A **
Pied Flycatcher sds 6B **
Royaume De Mousse Droit 7A **
Le Grande Bleu 6C+! *** (6B+/C! ?)
In what world is Jason's Roof easier than Sweet Dreams?! Suppose he managed fewer French blows on the latter but still ::)
Jason's Roof has been flashed at least twice in the past month.
Jason's Roof has been flashed at least twice in the past month.
Irrelevant
must be 7C innit ;). Just seen that Sweet Dreams wasn't even from sit, next time Jim. Great viddy regardless :strongbench:
A few gritstone bouldering clips from the last few years. The last problem is a newish addition of Bonjoy's.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-MgBqoxntL8
A few gritstone bouldering clips from the last few years. The last problem is a newish addition of Bonjoy's.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-MgBqoxntL8
Nice vid. Think only the ramp is in for feet on Bonjoy's new one (and the direct wall, 7c ish), not the RH block. I use a terrible/marginal RF heel-toe. Decent block.
Incidentally, if anyone gets the bonus link between my video and JackPals, apart from the area, you get a wad point. Yetix isn't allowed to answer of course.
P.S. Thanks Will.
Close - I was climbing above your mats cos apparently you've had to get rid of a few. Amazingly yetix beta for Riley's Arete worked great...
Thanks - there's definitely some great stuff in those hills.
Where is tigerfish? Good vid as always Dan.
I see everyone's first 8B has finally been downgraded
Nice viddy, Dan.
For the Stone Roses Traverse, I think you've topped out a bit early. SRT climbs into Pull My Strings which starts on the BB Slap finger jug and continues all the way under the lip to a finish at the far left of the boulder.
When I did BB Slap I didn't top out as direct as the stone hand does. Rather than do the rounded mantel you can scoot left into the groove and top out there. I'd be interested to know whether the direct mantel adds that much. If it doesn't then you've got two climbs which share a crux start, then the one with the long, techy 6C+ finish gets 7C+ and the one that finishes up BB Slap (6B with the cheeky scoot left) gets 8A.
Stone Hand is definitely the better problem imo, but my complete armchair opinion is that it probably shouldn't be harder than Stone Roses Traverse.
I suppose armchair downgrading was the next logical step in Will’s evolution :lol:beat me to it!
Nice viddy, Dan.
For the Stone Roses Traverse, I think you've topped out a bit early. SRT climbs into Pull My Strings which starts on the BB Slap finger jug and continues all the way under the lip to a finish at the far left of the boulder.
When I did BB Slap I didn't top out as direct as the stone hand does. Rather than do the rounded mantel you can scoot left into the groove and top out there. I'd be interested to know whether the direct mantel adds that much. If it doesn't then you've got two climbs which share a crux start, then the one with the long, techy 6C+ finish gets 7C+ and the one that finishes up BB Slap (6B with the cheeky scoot left) gets 8A.
Stone Hand is definitely the better problem imo, but my complete armchair opinion is that it probably shouldn't be harder than Stone Roses Traverse.
Ah good knowledge, I didn’t have a guide just remember from sutts vid, it’s continues around the corner. Never mind. Yeah probably all very similar in grade the crux is the start! Good fun none the less
I suppose armchair downgrading was the next logical step in Will’s evolution :lol:
Good knowledge. Sounds like Stone Roses should just go up to 8A then.
You don't need to have climbed the problem to understand that
...go and do one of these problems some time. Then your opinion may be worth more than nothing.
More interestingly I reckon there could be some rare occasions where an easier problem felt a harder finish on a link - if it was the sort of problem that was harder if you're drained. Enduro-problem Y into 6B bulge could feel harder than into a 6C slab topout :devangel:
Shiiiit! Makes you wonder what all the fuss the MellowRegulars made of it was all about!
Wow, he looks so floaty on that move to the intermediate and then to the jug! I live for that floaty feeling in climbing but it happens about once every 5 years now for me :lol:
Shiiiit! Makes you wonder what all the fuss the MellowRegulars made of it was all about!
Shiiiit! Makes you wonder what all the fuss the MellowRegulars made of it was all about!
I think it still took him around 7/8 days so not like he just rocked up and pissed it. Griffin Whiteside did this while I was there. Think it took him around 8 days of effort also. Griff is a low-key monster, he repeated Creatures of the Black Lagoon (8C+ I think) last summer with no knee bars, probably makes it 9A :lol:
The guy repeatedly saying "come on drew" sounds like he is having some sort of episode.
...while I was there.
...while I was there.
Please tell me you gave it a punt?
In the credits Star Slinger Sit is credited as FA Dan Varian (Dan Turner) - why's that?
That vid proves the point that it’s always better to be light even on burly stuff.Yeah. Sparrow-legged arsehole. Even his knees are scrawny. Still, great climbing tho, final moves are impressive.
* - definitely nothing hard although might be "climbing well for a fat guy" ©Shark Motivational Positive Body Image Clinic 2020
Enjoyed that Nick, made me miss rock climbing even more though. I am a big fan of no music so thumbs up from me. Mossatrocity must be well old footage, Jennings looks so young :lol:
One thing I would say is I didn't have time to read most of the captions. Slow reader? Or maybe leave them up for a little longer.
Will you definitely don't need a tied in spotter for Treebeard.
Some high quality boulders at out of the way venues.
https://vimeo.com/401939889
Some high quality boulders at out of the way venues.
https://vimeo.com/401939889
Thought that was great, cheers.
While we're all stuck at home feelin' blue.... here's a little video of some climbing we did this summer in Durness, Sutherland. This is about as far away as you can possibly go on the UK mainland and the rocky promontory of Rispond had some amazing gneiss boulders. Some of them were absolutely massive. Plenty more to get on up there if you're up for the trek. We only went for one day and so most of what we climbed was pretty easy. One notable exception was an amazing steep roof with an excellent 7b that I called RSVP. Hope you enjoy it!
https://vimeo.com/402655170
I've really enjoyed all the recent posts, really good for psyche.
Thanks all
Me too :)
These videos have led to me adding a lot of problems I'll never be incapable of to my UKC wishlist. More fantasy than 'owt, although I fantasize that all this core and fingerboard work will make me a significantly better climber
These videos have led to me adding a lot of problems I'll never be incapable of to my UKC wishlist.
Can you park at the pier at Rispond?
Thanks for taking the time to put that together Dave. Really nice to have the little bits of perspective on each climb.
Move to quality I think :bow:
Would be quality if you put a bangin donk on it...
Some more footy, with a twist, to keep the training psyche ticking over.
https://vimeo.com/405863530
Some more footy, with a twist, to keep the training psyche ticking over.
https://vimeo.com/405863530
No Gop = poor show.
https://youtu.be/8EefzdtAIUQ
Here is a deffo non quality of my back garden
https://youtu.be/8EefzdtAIUQ
Here is a deffo non quality of my back garden
Some great videos. Enjoyed the Peak one Kermit. Suavito looks a bit like Mark's Roof?
All the way from Inverness.. might provide some entertainment.
Enjoyed this nonsense from a friend in Tasmania.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=yKsrKBi7XDM
What a heartbreaker. Every credit for stepping off.Terrified of appearing on Bring Out Your Dabs....
Clearly not a fan.
I wonder if he will breeze up it without the fan
The kids have been enjoying the Ox Stones recently.
Good range of problems for little people.
https://vimeo.com/440675014
Looks good actually. Same rock as Ruthven?
Nice Rob, looks good. And yeah lovely view!
Looks good actually. Same rock as Ruthven?
yeah, here is the link-
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/rooftownruadha_nan_eallachan-25517
Check the pics for Maps and Topo's
Looks good actually. Same rock as Ruthven?
yeah, here is the link-
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/rooftownruadha_nan_eallachan-25517
Check the pics for Maps and Topo's
Cheers I had a look at that already, just wasn't sure if it was the same rock type, you can travel 500m in the glen and it's different rock!
I can't precisely assess the moisture level of the rock from a video....but crikey....the protagonists certainly aren't making any effort to appear likeable! The contrast with the recent WCG and Stoned Love reveries is pronounced. My view is best summarised as:
Along with Macfarlane, Mitbo, and the Climbing Choadnads, they are some of the very worst things about climbing / Youtube and deserve to be ground down into mincemeat and fed to more deserving organisms.:lol: Quality.
Top selector! I've never bothered with Loch lomond but that Loch Sloy boulder might have changed my mind. It looks amazing!https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mtpc7cjuYiA
Looks great, nice one. I've always been put off by Glen Ogle as it looks like a place you could do a lot of wandering about and not a lot of actual climbing.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GfmddApB0AM
(vids etc)
Been telling you lot this for years
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1f2CZ3lmW4s
Max Milne's new 8B on Aberdeenshire Coast.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1f2CZ3lmW4s
Max Milne's new 8B on Aberdeenshire Coast.
Dab.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1f2CZ3lmW4s
Max Milne's new 8B on Aberdeenshire Coast.
Dab.....
and tick marks...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1f2CZ3lmW4s
Max Milne's new 8B on Aberdeenshire Coast.
Dab.....
and tick marks...
Must have missed the dab.
My thoughts exactly Scragrock. In an area where it's hard to find new hard bouldering, at least give him a tiny bit of credit.
Bumped into Tim at Kilnsey yesterday. Rumours are that he's done something seriously hard at Portlethen...
Had missed the end bit with his mum. Not sure what the story is there?
a few lines of chalk on a random boulder on the coast by Aberdeen.
Had missed the end bit with his mum. Not sure what the story is there?
She died of cancer when he was 10, he named prob after her.
Husky looks ace :)For sure, definitely one of the best V5s in Colorado :) (a place with a lot of amazing V5s...)
Nice one, Tim. Is that the thing near DMZ?
Nice Coops. My Insta feed is full of people there at the moment!
Yeah, above Barley Mow and near DMZ. I've glanced at it before but it was obvious it was out of my league. Not heard of anyone having done it and I would have thought it would become popular. Good effs.
https://youtu.be/tpkh1xuoy8s (https://youtu.be/tpkh1xuoy8s)
Here is a terrible, out of focus video of a problem at almscliff which I think is new. Has anyone done this?
It is really good, standard almscliff quality rock and good movement, just in a bit of a smelly pit
Nice one palm-strong. Excited to try this. Looks like there are now two good boulder problems at Almscliff.
Nice one palm-strong. Excited to try this. Looks like there are now two good boulder problems at Almscliff.
Ha what's the other one, Chiasmata?
Earocist :P
Earocist :P
Have you started up Stu’s left and finished in DBS? I was thinking about the potential of this king line the other day
Nice one palm-strong. Excited to try this. Looks like there are now two good boulder problems at Almscliff.
Ha what's the other one, Chiasmata?
Earocist :P
Are you going to traverse the whole buttress below the break and then finish up Pothole Direct?
some footage from summer to nowish
https://vimeo.com/user65062545/review/473055483/47a33d1cec
Hmm weird, yeah that's the one cheers
shall hoy one in the comments!
Nice vid, I first of all thought you had a small child with you. :).
I kept on getting black bits between clips?
I liked it but I personally have a short attention span so I'd normally want a video involving one problem to be shorter unless there was more drama, emotion, power-screaming etc. Maybe focus on a good shot for each of the moves and some failures then the send go? Or add some tunes if it's going to be long.
Take all the above with a pinch of salt as all the videos I have ever made are very much at the non-quality end of the spectrum :)
Think this belongs here (unusually for Mellow)...
http://youtu.be/lzTeWTyxJc0
Amazing looking venue! Seemed from my armchair that there was possibly some bad beta knocking about here, interested in other people's thoughts?
Scottish stuff from the autumn:
Think this belongs here (unusually for Mellow)...
http://youtu.be/lzTeWTyxJc0
Amazing looking venue! Seemed from my armchair that there was possibly some bad beta knocking about here, interested in other people's thoughts?
Scottish stuff from the autumn:
https://vimeo.com/476883284
Definitely quality. Lennoxtown looks sweet! Thanks for the extra beta on Susurrus...
Definitely quality. Lennoxtown looks sweet! Thanks for the extra beta on Susurrus...
Cheers! Yeah there are a few good problems at Lennoxtown (mainly thanks to Al Gorham) but it remains pretty esoteric - very Northumbrian-esque rock though, along with Craigmaddie. Good luck on Susurrus - so many methods!
Scottish stuff from the autumn:
https://vimeo.com/476883284
Cool problems, nice one.
Has Gordon Bombay got easier or something? Sure I remember watching Al's video and it being 7C+!
We'll need an independent adjudicator to confirm your use of the "knee scum" on Susurrus was prior to the prohibition of knee usage! :lol:
If this belongs anywhere I guess it's here.
https://youtu.be/pLpNsLeUh3E
Lovely. Lived there for 6 years up to 2005 and it made me really miss the place. Suspect some of those blocs have been unearthed/fallen there since then! Used to wander down there from tanybwlch.
Really liked that. Nice vibe
That neither looks like a summer project, nor a summer beard. Good effort on both.
Nice legwarmers, very flashdance. looks like it needs he coldest of the cold!
Good effort. reminds me of The Revenant .... just need a grizzly bear!
was that an "air Egyptian"?
Niche!!! An hour long documentary on Pennsylvanian bouldering. The state is completely unknown when it comes to climbing but as the film shows it's packed with a huge variety of great looking venues. I'm pissed off with myself that I did virtually nothing to take advantage of it while I lived there (though I never managed to meet another climber and a lot of the best areas are hours from where I lived). It looks like exactly the kind of thing I like: backwater venues hidden in the woods, interesting local scenes. Also, it really is a beautiful state.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Izj0VdE0rGM
Hopefully provide some kind of entertainment during LD. Some boulders climbed early Dec. I think Superbloc might be the contender for one of the best boulders I have done in the UK.Enjoyed that, lovely light. And the fly on the lens when you do master of stone. Somehow brought it alive for me.
https://youtu.be/CM5OLE5QIrM
Highball bouldering from Running Hill Pits. Borderline bouldering/chuffing vids thread but here it is :)
https://youtu.be/oFmyH2blBXY
Lovely fluid piece of climbing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eWa74Yrvzww
This is awesome. Daniel Woods on his own, trying really hard on an amazing looking boulder. No noisy people in the background shouting "tension", or any other nonsense. Just pure hard bouldering. Love it.Fuck me those projects sound gruellingly hard!
https://www.instagram.com/p/CLFGzRkjeKU/?igshid=1pjrb4gx4yg4f
This is awesome. Daniel Woods on his own, trying really hard on an amazing looking boulder. No noisy people in the background shouting "tension", or any other nonsense. Just pure hard bouldering. Love it.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CLFGzRkjeKU/?igshid=1pjrb4gx4yg4f
This has really ground my gears this evening. Incredible looking problem, climbed brilliantly.
However, I can't get past the awful music choice in the video; sexist, homophobic, advocating / glamorisng rape and violence towards women...pretty disgusting all told, and a real shame as it spoils an amazing display of climbing skill.
https://youtu.be/MiQQDIrUYnw
awful music choice in the video; sexist, homophobic, advocating / glamorisng rape and violence towards women...pretty disgusting all told
Living large has to be one of if not the most impressive boulder I've seen climbed. The combination of height, difficulty and tech. I dread to think how poor the holds are.
As for the music, I never understood the outrage over violent lyrics in music as we generally don't hold film/tv to the same standard. I don't endorse executing children but I just watched that happen in a TV series I'm watching and I'll tune in again tomorrow.
Living large has to be one of if not the most impressive boulder I've seen climbed. The combination of height, difficulty and tech. I dread to think how poor the holds are.
As for the music, I never understood the outrage over violent lyrics in music as we generally don't hold film/tv to the same standard. I don't endorse executing children but I just watched that happen in a TV series I'm watching and I'll tune in again tomorrow.
This is fantastic stuff. Proper old skool Daily Mail style outrage. Love it.
I listen to music full of lyrics about torturing people to death, chainsawing faces off, battery acid enemas, forced abortions, flaying people alive, etc etc...
....and it's sure as hell going on my next bouldering video. I'll even put subtitles in in case the growling and shrieking is incomprehensible.
This is fantastic stuff. Proper old skool Daily Mail style outrage. Love it.
I listen to music full of lyrics about torturing people to death, chainsawing faces off, battery acid enemas, forced abortions, flaying people alive, etc etc...
....and it's sure as hell going on my next bouldering video. I'll even put subtitles in in case the growling and shrieking is incomprehensible.
Are you casually watching films that glorify sexual violence against women? Because that's what's being referenced in the lyrics.
Your TV series may have had children dying but I'd hazard a guess it wasn't being celebrated.
The recent Mellow video with Barefoot Charles in it was great, you get a sense of his personality as well as it being a joy to watch him climb.
The music in this video is first and foremost a distraction. But I wouldn’t want to be brand manager for TNF. My bet is the vid doesn’t stay up in its current state.
Take one of those tracks out of context of the album and some would view them as glorifying violence, but they'd be wrong.
Take one of those tracks out of context of the album and some would view them as glorifying violence, but they'd be wrong.
Isn’t this exactly why it’s a poor choice for a bouldering film. It’s lost all context.
Take one of those tracks out of context of the album and some would view them as glorifying violence, but they'd be wrong.
Isn’t this exactly why it’s a poor choice for a bouldering film. It’s lost all context.
That was clever about 15 years ago but you don’t see TNF on middle aged outdoor men so much nowadays (I work in that ‘space’). TNF are a youth streetwear brand now. Not sure a large part of their target audience is so down with misogyny/homophobia.
(Apols if any middle aged UKBers are still rockin TNF)
I enjoy hip-hop more than most but there can't be many more musical genres that are less appropriate for films of politeEuropeanpeople enjoying healthy pursuits in the great outdoors.
(Apols if any middle aged UKBers are still rockin TNF)
That was clever about 15 years ago but you don’t see TNF on middle aged outdoor men so much nowadays (I work in that ‘space’). TNF are a youth streetwear brand now. Not sure a large part of their target audience is so down with misogyny/homophobia.
(Apols if any middle aged UKBers are still rockin TNF)
I’m going to argue with you because it’s a Saturday morning and I have lots of work to do...
That vent diagram was drawn by an artist (and vaguely popular influencer -Mr Bingo) in 2018. The full version pointed out his perfect brand alignment as a middle aged man who likes hiking AS WELL
AS a rapper. For every group of kids buying TNF T-shirts there will be at least some middle aged men who view TNF as the go-to brand for the outdoor clothing connoisseur who also likes to rock Kick in the Door on the way back from the crag.
Dead Wrong ACTUALLY REFERENCES The North Face.
Do you think TNF is worried about all the drill artists head to toe in TNF all over YouTube with lyrics like,
“When I leave my yard my shanks tucked, but it might end up in a mans guts”...
In case you hadn’t noticed you’re not Shawn Raboutou and no one watches your videos.
:lol: good stuff. I guess music in climbing videos is in the eye of the beholder tho. It might not seem that appropriate nor maybe fitting the grandeur of this line nor the thrilling footage....but maybe he really loves the track....I enjoy hip-hop more than most but there can't be many more musical genres that are less appropriate for films of politeEuropeanpeople enjoying healthy pursuits in the great outdoors.
But remember that these are the guys who came up with a pointless grading system that wiped its arse on 99.99% of climbers. Could it not just be the case that they're thick?
Oh and I thought the video was great. Can only assume it’s been put in the non quality as Mary whitehouse was upset.
Got to be the best problem in the world.
All biggie smalls music was like this, as was a whole genre of rap at the same time, was mainstream and top of the charts, it’s critically acclaimed to this day and still loved by many.
My son and his mates ( male and female) all play this stuff but I guess they are not 40 + year old curmudgeons and will love the idea we don’t approve.
This is fantastic stuff. Proper old skool Daily Mail style outrage. Love it.
I listen to music full of lyrics about torturing people to death, chainsawing faces off, battery acid enemas, forced abortions, flaying people alive, etc etc...
....and it's sure as hell going on my next bouldering video. I'll even put subtitles in in case the growling and shrieking is incomprehensible.
Amazing bluster given how thin skinned you can be...Shark, I'm not sure what is so hard to get about this. I'll try to be clearer.
I wasn’t calling anyone woke or lefty it’s just a fact that this stuff has been rattling the cages of the left/right, woke, religious, conservative middle class etc for years. Rock music, rap music, rave, drill. You name it it will have been commented on just like this thread. Yet there is no evidence that it actually makes the listeners go out and commit these heinous acts. Video games actually let you live out some of this stuff and cause the same outrage.
Kids love everything that pisses off the adults and like it or not TNF and mellows market is not 30-40 50 year old men who write on chat rooms so the music fits well.
This is fantastic stuff. Proper old skool Daily Mail style outrage. Love it.
I listen to music full of lyrics about torturing people to death, chainsawing faces off, battery acid enemas, forced abortions, flaying people alive, etc etc...
....and it's sure as hell going on my next bouldering video. I'll even put subtitles in in case the growling and shrieking is incomprehensible.
Amazing bluster given how thin skinned you can be...
This is fantastic stuff. Proper old skool Daily Mail style outrage. Love it.
I listen to music full of lyrics about torturing people to death, chainsawing faces off, battery acid enemas, forced abortions, flaying people alive, etc etc...
....and it's sure as hell going on my next bouldering video. I'll even put subtitles in in case the growling and shrieking is incomprehensible.
Amazing bluster given how thin skinned you can be...
Apparently you need a fucking phd in piss taking to understand the rules
This is fantastic stuff. Proper old skool Daily Mail style outrage. Love it.
I listen to music full of lyrics about torturing people to death, chainsawing faces off, battery acid enemas, forced abortions, flaying people alive, etc etc...
....and it's sure as hell going on my next bouldering video. I'll even put subtitles in in case the growling and shrieking is incomprehensible.
Amazing bluster given how thin skinned you can be...
Apparently you need a fucking phd in piss taking to understand the rules
This is fantastic stuff. Proper old skool Daily Mail style outrage. Love it.
I listen to music full of lyrics about torturing people to death, chainsawing faces off, battery acid enemas, forced abortions, flaying people alive, etc etc...
....and it's sure as hell going on my next bouldering video. I'll even put subtitles in in case the growling and shrieking is incomprehensible.
Amazing bluster given how thin skinned you can be...
Apparently you need a fucking phd in piss taking to understand the rules
I don't get the rules either. I'm convinced it's just dependent on his temperament on the day. I do think it's very funny though, that the same man who waged a two decade long campaign to leave a snide comment on every top roping photo in the UKC gallery, is the same guy who gets fummin' when it's mentioned that he likes Maccy D's.NSFW Completely off topic:
Last year we tried to relocate to Cornwall, it didn't quite work out, but I did manage to get some bouldering done
and here's a little vid (split into 3 parts to make editing easier on my ancient laptop).
Featuring cameo appearance from kingholmsey and spotting from Danny - thanks alot for showing me around :thumbsup:
West Penwith
https://youtu.be/xl-jBbIdcGk
Bodmin, Cheesewring and SE Cornwall
https://youtu.be/sV9kPb67PEo
Carn Brea
https://youtu.be/cUmP5EzoYVI
Thanks. Luxulyan valley is really lovely.
Yes it's the direct finish to The Wild Hunt (that moves rightwards along the seam/slopers)
I also did the FA of the highball arete left of Where The Wild Things are. Called In Wilder We Trust 7A+
I'll add these to the UKC logbook when I get a chance later.
Got very close to the project at Forest Moon Buttress, up the hanging arete/prow, but ran out of time. This will be a brilliant burly 7B ish
Thanks. Luxulyan valley is really lovely.
Yes it's the direct finish to The Wild Hunt (that moves rightwards along the seam/slopers)
I also did the FA of the highball arete left of Where The Wild Things are. Called In Wilder We Trust 7A+
I'll add these to the UKC logbook when I get a chance later.
Got very close to the project at Forest Moon Buttress, up the hanging arete/prow, but ran out of time. This will be a brilliant burly 7B ish
Last year we tried to relocate to Cornwall, it didn't quite work out, but I did manage to get some bouldering done.Nice stuff Mark, and here's me thinking you spent all your time down there micro managing your fantasy football team. I didn't realise you'd also been climbing :2thumbsup:
Last year we tried to relocate to Cornwall, it didn't quite work out, but I did manage to get some bouldering done
and here's a little vid (split into 3 parts to make editing easier on my ancient laptop).
Featuring cameo appearance from kingholmsey and spotting from Danny - thanks alot for showing me around :thumbsup:
West Penwith
https://youtu.be/xl-jBbIdcGk
Bodmin, Cheesewring and SE Cornwall
https://youtu.be/sV9kPb67PEo
Carn Brea
https://youtu.be/cUmP5EzoYVI
Thanks all, very kind. Hopefully see you soon Guy
Andy W - thanks, your videos were a good source of info and inspiration, just a shame I was there the wrong time of year to sample the more coastal stuff (eg Zennor Fool looks great).
What to do in between attempts? Talk shite to the camera. I know the Copleys weren't twins...or were they? Time flies.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Goy48X8EOFA
If you're totally inspired (what's not to love?!), it's worth giving the prow an ab first as the penultimate hold has just been fixed - worth a brush of the holds anyway.
What to do in between attempts? Talk shite to the camera. I know the Copleys weren't twins...or were they? Time flies.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Goy48X8EOFA
If you're totally inspired (what's not to love?!), it's worth giving the prow an ab first as the penultimate hold has just been fixed - worth a brush of the holds anyway.
What to do in between attempts? Talk shite to the camera. I know the Copleys weren't twins...or were they? Time flies.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Goy48X8EOFA
If you're totally inspired (what's not to love?!), it's worth giving the prow an ab first as the penultimate hold has just been fixed - worth a brush of the holds anyway.
Nice one for fixing Light Worker, very good problem. How on earth did it ever get 7C+ though?!
What to do in between attempts? Talk shite to the camera. I know the Copleys weren't twins...or were they? Time flies.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Goy48X8EOFA
If you're totally inspired (what's not to love?!), it's worth giving the prow an ab first as the penultimate hold has just been fixed - worth a brush of the holds anyway.
Nice one for fixing Light Worker, very good problem. How on earth did it ever get 7C+ though?!
In the Copley brothers video about developing some of the problems in the quarry they were talking about using the very small edge up and right of the high sloper to gain the top rather than the jug to the left. This would make the problem a lot harder but would be very eliminate. It is also worth bearing in mind the difference it makes with the holds being really clean. The slopers on the face were previously as green as the rest of the block; this isn't something you can get off with a quick brush. I can imagine it feeling 7C+ when Mike first did it if he only spent 30 minutes on it.
Enjoyed the video Guy, where next?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sNUu7pm4Hi8
Another video for no-one to watch :2thumbsup: Maybe a worthwhile option in the forthcoming good weather??
Problems for future reference: Linea Negra , Fontanelles , Androsterone , Morning Sickness , Love Handles
I think that is actually Light Worker (the name in the video is different to the video name). Light Walker is the eliminate that avoids using the arête or the ramp to the left.
Enjoyed the video Guy, where next?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sNUu7pm4Hi8
Another video for no-one to watch :2thumbsup: Maybe a worthwhile option in the forthcoming good weather??
Problems for future reference: Linea Negra , Fontanelles , Androsterone , Morning Sickness , Love Handles
They emigrated to New Zealand.What to do in between attempts? Talk shite to the camera. I know the Copleys weren't twins...or were they? Time flies.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Goy48X8EOFA
If you're totally inspired (what's not to love?!), it's worth giving the prow an ab first as the penultimate hold has just been fixed - worth a brush of the holds anyway.
What happened to the Copley twins? I imagine they're now living in a trailer at a truck stop. They sleep by day and, as dusk falls, the abusive bar owner wakes them roughly from sleep to go on stage and do buildering performances for whooping Doncastrian rednecks. Until one day Gresh walks into the bar and their stars change forever.
They emigrated to New Zealand.What to do in between attempts? Talk shite to the camera. I know the Copleys weren't twins...or were they? Time flies.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Goy48X8EOFA
If you're totally inspired (what's not to love?!), it's worth giving the prow an ab first as the penultimate hold has just been fixed - worth a brush of the holds anyway.
What happened to the Copley twins? I imagine they're now living in a trailer at a truck stop. They sleep by day and, as dusk falls, the abusive bar owner wakes them roughly from sleep to go on stage and do buildering performances for whooping Doncastrian rednecks. Until one day Gresh walks into the bar and their stars change forever.
Lovely little flick on Morning Sickness. I think the clag adds charm.Thanks WFT (and sheavi). I had to do MS like that as I couldn't stretch properly onto the sloper, let along the sloper jug - quite an exciting move. It was that weird "dry mist" - there was actually windswept ice fins on a couple of bits of rock and reeds, but the rock itself was bone dry (temp drop IIRC).
What to do in between attempts? Talk shite to the camera. I know the Copleys weren't twins...or were they? Time flies.Just a note.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Goy48X8EOFA
If you're totally inspired (what's not to love?!), it's worth giving the prow an ab first as the penultimate hold has just been fixed - worth a brush of the holds anyway.
What to do in between attempts? Talk shite to the camera. I know the Copleys weren't twins...or were they? Time flies.Just a note.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Goy48X8EOFA
If you're totally inspired (what's not to love?!), it's worth giving the prow an ab first as the penultimate hold has just been fixed - worth a brush of the holds anyway.
The flake the right hand crimp is on on The Hagg had some play in it today. Not sure if it's always been like that or if it's new. I didn't fancy using it that's for sure.
What happened to the Copley twins?
They emigrated to New Zealand.
me having a go at filming interesting light with my phone
https://vimeo.com/532947445
Nice work, is that camera "movemen"t added in during editing or what are you using?
Nice work, is that camera "movemen"t added in during editing or what are you using?
Cropped during editing to make static shots seem slightly less dull.
Using the pan/crop tool in Vegas
That's brilliant lagers
Love Will's flashing red light!That's all I could focus on too!
Love Will's flashing red light!That's all I could focus on too!
I was half expecting a small model plane to come landing on the pads...
Apologies* to all Yorkshire regulars for whom this will be all terribly mundane and passe, but here you go, some Baildon fun, including a highball that doesn't have many UKC ticks, one of NaoB's fav problems from 2020, and celebrity spotting from Perc and Jarvis Cocker ;)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Orulj468Vsc
Who Are We Without Moon / The Baildon Stem / The Mantel / Suggy's Wall / The Oik
* - not really
Apologies* to all Yorkshire regulars for whom this will be all terribly mundane and passe, but here you go, some Baildon fun, including a highball that doesn't have many UKC ticks, one of NaoB's fav problems from 2020, and celebrity spotting from Perc and Jarvis Cocker ;)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Orulj468Vsc
Who Are We Without Moon / The Baildon Stem / The Mantel / Suggy's Wall / The Oik
* - not really
I love a downgrade as much as the next man, but Lesson in depth felt 7B to me! Certainly not 7A.The start is quite bunched so maybe that didn't help me at 6'2 and the even taller FA? But I think you're just climbing well to be honest! Really good problem nonetheless.
Cheers Will and Wellsy.
T³, that is music to my tinnitus-infused ears, glad that you're inspired, that makes it all worthwhile doing these vids. Also at Baildon the 6C version of Underhere is cool (Will made me do it), and there's a 6C left of The Mantle that is fun if the conditions are good. And I might have something more for you next week...
Liam - interesting stuff. I'm not taking the piss with LID (and put this vid together before watching yours, maybe LID feels harder if you're lapping it, and aren't you a ^7C^ climber anyway??). A bit of context: 7A is my usual max, 7A+ I can pull out of the bag a couple of times a year if they exactly suit me, 7B is effectively beyond me, I've done one in my life when I was at least a stone lighter and it took me 11 hours over 4 sessions in perfect winter connies. LID I nearly did in one very brief session but didn't know you could go for the much better ramp with the right hand (and I ran out of daylight), and I did it in a few goes next session, vest conditions so hardly as crisp as I usually need. I do a lot of 7A aretes and this is just another one (easier than Who Are We, for example).
However, I do take your point about morphology entirely. For me the crux was getting the right heel to stick to slap up to the good ramp. Maybe stiff 6C+ pulling into that from standing but deffo 7A adding in the start moves. If those start moves - slapping into the undercling and sorting feet - are so horribly cramped for the 6 footer that that's now the crux and adds a couple of grades, then fair enough, it can also add an extra star for being joyously easier for the short :2thumbsup: Maybe we need to get a 5'8"-10" 7A/+ climber on it to confirm.
Anyway I'm sure there's no debate about the quality, even with the mud-slope nearby it climbs really well with great features :yes:
T² - you haven't seen me on Nyan Cat, or Mr Monster, or Catfoot, or that 6B+ in the trench at Curbar that might as well be 7B+ if you can't reach the holds. Funnily enough the things I can't do rarely get on my videos. Eh Up Diablo is just yarding between buckets, it wouldn't get 6C even in Lancashire, but maybe it's harder for the longer gentleman to keep their limbs within the eliminate rules?? I now realise this is "the weird quarry near Glossop" you were telling me about a year ago. Incidentally the 7A+ right of EUD looks very cool and infinitely harder than, say, LID, even for the gaston fan.
I now realise this is "the weird quarry near Glossop" you were telling me about a year ago. Incidentally the 7A+ right of EUD looks very cool and infinitely harder than, say, LID, even for the gaston fan.
Nope.
Some crap climbing from an Auld Neep in the Highlands.Did not deliver as promised. 0/10. Refund requested. Would not trust this user's description again :2thumbsup:
Thanks Fiend :thumbsup:Some crap climbing from an Auld Neep in the Highlands.Did not deliver as promised. 0/10. Refund requested. Would not trust this user's description again :2thumbsup:
Liam - interesting stuff. I'm not taking the piss with LID (and put this vid together before watching yours, maybe LID feels harder if you're lapping it, and aren't you a ^7C^ climber anyway??). A bit of context: 7A is my usual max, 7A+ I can pull out of the bag a couple of times a year if they exactly suit me, 7B is effectively beyond me, I've done one in my life when I was at least a stone lighter and it took me 11 hours over 4 sessions in perfect winter connies. LID I nearly did in one very brief session but didn't know you could go for the much better ramp with the right hand (and I ran out of daylight), and I did it in a few goes next session, vest conditions so hardly as crisp as I usually need. I do a lot of 7A aretes and this is just another one (easier than Who Are We, for example).
However, I do take your point about morphology entirely. For me the crux was getting the right heel to stick to slap up to the good ramp. Maybe stiff 6C+ pulling into that from standing but deffo 7A adding in the start moves. If those start moves - slapping into the undercling and sorting feet - are so horribly cramped for the 6 footer that that's now the crux and adds a couple of grades, then fair enough, it can also add an extra star for being joyously easier for the short :2thumbsup: Maybe we need to get a 5'8"-10" 7A/+ climber on it to confirm.
Anyway I'm sure there's no debate about the quality, even with the mud-slope nearby it climbs really well with great features :yes:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Q3vjkTwkcI
The latest arthouse beta video from our resident orc lord.
Some crap climbing from an Auld Neep in the Highlands.
Let's see if the NE 250 has a similar effect. Somehow has slightly less appeal than the NW though.That's a new one on me.
Not many people get to flex on Ondra, but here's Martin Stráník doing the 8B+ in Ondra's home town that Adam failed on.
Gun show.
https://youtu.be/aFU1GDBj95I
Good to see a strong Czech team visiting the Wiltons ;D
Good to see a strong Czech team visiting the Wiltons ;DClassic :lol:
Haha! Looks like similar beta as well, pull on the sharp Rh thing.
Andy - cheers. This one was partly dedicated to you
Cheers guys. Yes definitely. QOH in being "Harmer's bag o'nails" shocker lol. Took me, I dunno, 15-20 goes?? It was quite nice going from not believing that the high RH slopey-pinch-ripple....thing was actually existent, to finding it almost reliable as a hold :wub:
Nice one Steve! Is that under Traverse Buttress? Kicking myself for never looking down there.
All of those looked about half a cm away from Bring Out Your Dabs ;D
Lovely light in the Ladyboy one, needs to work on his jumper game though.
Nice one :yes: strong pedalling on #2 :)
Scottish summer efforts. Lots from the Northwest Highlands and a scattering of newish problems from all over.
https://youtu.be/AdoNBrtAAHM
Saying nothing...Wow!
http://youtu.be/U93dAwcbxL8
Saying nothing...
http://youtu.be/U93dAwcbxL8
This is what speed climbing appeasement has led us to.
Doesn’t look like the rest of your family got much done. ;)
Great stuff Robbie. Keen to get into Craig Shomhairle some day!Yes, it wasn't as good as I thought it would be. Loads of amazing looking blocks, but often sharp and quite friable. Big walk in too. But the worst thing was the ticks. Would be better in spring.
Great stuff as per Robbie! Slightly gutted though as I hoped you'd got the Real Thing on camera!I did man, I just didn't know if you would be happy for me to include it! Sorry dude. I can send it over to you if you want, or include it in the next inevitable Sheigra video.
Creag Shomhairle is only 9 hours from Sheffield so it might get further attention...Haha. Touché. It's surely one of the most obscure bouldering areas possible in mainland UK. It's bloody miles from anywhere (and a long walk) unless you happen to be up at Durness. That said, because of the NC 500 it was absolutely crawling with camper vans up there, and loads of people who are outdoor enthusiasts. Ben Moon himself was camping 4 tents away from us on a family surfing holiday when we were there. Didn't manage to get him climbing, but he did show us a great spot to fish for Mackerel!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dHZN9hAVORc
Outrageous challenge and a great beta vid for forest rock.
Bit harsh putting this in non-quality!
Bit harsh putting this in non-quality!
Super impressive feat. His level of all body and bicep strength must be absolutely incredible.
Non-quality to appease those who are allergic to slow motion (and the soundtrack is awful), but the blocks look incredible!
Fiend, you are the original hard-to-avoid climber. Your recent schtick of moral outrage at climbers publicising themselves surely can’t be genuine.
Anyway, it's not hard to avoid publicisation of cool problems away from the main Ilkley honeypots because there's hardly any
Nice one HKS, quite different from your usual settings. Some good dab potential there.
And...Fiend, you are the original hard-to-avoid climber. Your recent schtick of moral outrage at climbers publicising themselves surely can’t be genuine.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ikJ3o_42wA
Just for @cheque , apparently I'm "hard to avoid", kinda weird since "no-one watches my videos" (© Tom Briggs), no-one sees my photos on UKC cos I still haven't sucked enough dick to overcome Alan James' false banning, and I get fuck all "engagement" on social media compared to the average indoor wall climber.
Anyway, it's not hard to avoid publicisation of cool problems away from the main Ilkley honeypots because there's hardly any apart from the useful Unknownchoss.com guides, so there's a tiny wee thing to rectify that.
The rock at High Crag / Swastika Stones is shockingly good by the usual low standards of Yorkshire
Poor sod. And whoever Dr Norton is too.
I wasn’t implying that you shouldn’t publicise pictures/ video/ writing of yourself climbing Fiend, I meant that it’s weird to slag other people off for doing it too.Of course you know that I'm not slagging off anyone publicising their climbing (which I devour a lot of) per se, but instead slagging off particular methods and subject matters that I find crass and irritating - number focused clickbait hype about stuff that is common or mundane, often with excess editing (or occasionally no effort for clarity). And for that matter, the disproportionate attention that such stuff can get irrespective of quality or interest, for reasons that are still bewildering to me (are portrait videos of indoor V4s really that desirable?? Actually I don't want to know)... Whilst stuff like, say, Dave Mason's videos get little attention despite quality hard problems, and Laney30ii still isn't in any grit climber's bookmarks as it damn well should be.
5'8" +1" AI
https://youtu.be/oPm6IhnVgKE
A quality little line in HK that finally got its FA last weekend
Saharan Wind f8A,
Saharan Wind f8A,
Well done Benj. There's a lot of climbs on that face now, are they all reasonably independant?
Tsk, this strikes me as a missed opportunity. It’s aping the creative vacuum of manufactured thinking. With reference to penis size maybe something like ‘micro Putin syndrome’ would give more food for thought? Saying that I’d like to see a problem named ‘Blair’s gaping anus’Dan, the only gaping vacuum in this thread, is between your ears.
Give it a rest Matt.Tsk, this strikes me as a missed opportunity. It’s aping the creative vacuum of manufactured thinking. With reference to penis size maybe something like ‘micro Putin syndrome’ would give more food for thought? Saying that I’d like to see a problem named ‘Blair’s gaping anus’Dan, the only gaping vacuum in this thread, is between your ears.
Life getting on top of you again?
Absolutely not. He ruins this place.Give it a rest Matt.Tsk, this strikes me as a missed opportunity. It’s aping the creative vacuum of manufactured thinking. With reference to penis size maybe something like ‘micro Putin syndrome’ would give more food for thought? Saying that I’d like to see a problem named ‘Blair’s gaping anus’Dan, the only gaping vacuum in this thread, is between your ears.
Life getting on top of you again?
Keep insulting and being disingenuous then. Your choice.Absolutely not. He ruins this place.Give it a rest Matt.Tsk, this strikes me as a missed opportunity. It’s aping the creative vacuum of manufactured thinking. With reference to penis size maybe something like ‘micro Putin syndrome’ would give more food for thought? Saying that I’d like to see a problem named ‘Blair’s gaping anus’Dan, the only gaping vacuum in this thread, is between your ears.
Life getting on top of you again?
somewhat childish i'll admit but couldn't resist the name of this recent addition in HK:
https://youtu.be/O1kmn-eFUN4
somewhat childish i'll admit but couldn't resist the name of this recent addition in HK:
https://youtu.be/O1kmn-eFUN4
I hope the name is not suggesting there's anything wrong with having a tiny penis. Body shaming is not cool. Sweet looking climb, and venue, though :)
I hope the name is not suggesting there's anything wrong with having a tiny penis. Body shaming is not cool. Sweet looking climb, and venue, though :)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IilvlKZwEyM tedious low-mid-grade polished honeypot bollox but I had fun so :icon_321:
Showing your age with route name (and I'm showing mine recognising it!).:lol: yeah, another fading cultural reference ::)
Looks stellar.
Good vids Fiend and it looks like you're going pretty well cruising those 7A's. I can't imagine the 7A+/7B problems you speak of are beyond you with a bit of persistence!Thanks Liam. Yetix was also waffling on to me about "blah blah you could do 7B blah Fiend" (as if I haven't been trying really hard and solidly plateauing at 7A - and the occasional very lucky once-a-year 7A+ - for 2 decades now....). He hushed up a bit when I told him "why do I need to fail on 7Bs when I can just as easily fail on 7As I can't touch - like Northern Soul that I spent 15+ goes unable to do even the first move, right in the middle of the day when I was the best warmed up / not-fatigued, or Emyr's Arete in similar conditions which had two moves I couldn't get near even in isolation, but could imagine possibly doing with a multi-month siege and specific training" :lol:
I too visited North Wales last week and the 6B up the Mallory boulder was glorious! #nongoalbasedclimbing
Good vids Fiend and it looks like you're going pretty well cruising those 7A's. I can't imagine the 7A+/7B problems you speak of are beyond you with a bit of persistence!Thanks Liam. Yetix was also waffling on to me about "blah blah you could do 7B blah Fiend" (as if I haven't been trying really hard and solidly plateauing at 7A - and the occasional very lucky once-a-year 7A+ - for 2 decades now....). He hushed up a bit when I told him "why do I need to fail on 7Bs when I can just as easily fail on 7As I can't touch - like Northern Soul that I spent 15+ goes unable to do even the first move, right in the middle of the day when I was the best warmed up / not-fatigued, or Emyr's Arete in similar conditions which had two moves I couldn't get near even in isolation, but could imagine possibly doing with a multi-month siege and specific training" :lol:
I too visited North Wales last week and the 6B up the Mallory boulder was glorious! #nongoalbasedclimbing
Pretty sure the stuff I managed quickly in the video was ultra-soft / cheating conditions, but still great fun climbing on an amazing hillside.
Did you post here about going up to Mallory or was that Bradders?? (I get confused with tall strong people from Leeds area, apart from Will who stands out in his own very particular way), either way it sounded like a great trip.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GgwUl6fXUvc
Tedious low-mid-grade polished honeypot bollox but I had fun so :icon_321:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AAmuh6XFLh0
Slightly less tedious low-mid-grade rarely visited hidden gems....Cwm Dulyn. Fresh and new in the North Wales Bouldering 2021 guide, notorious for a very photogenic Pete Robins multi-pitch 7B+! problem, and thus slightly slim pickings without a spotter, but nevertheless a couple of great problems and a wonderful setting made it well worth a visit. For you 7A+/B wads, go with a spotter and there will be loads of good choice.
or Emyr's Arete in similar conditions which had two moves I couldn't get near even in isolation, but could imagine possibly doing with a multi-month siege and specific training" :lol:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GgwUl6fXUvc
Tedious low-mid-grade polished honeypot bollox but I had fun so :icon_321:
T - Rest day exploring the south side of The Pass, walking about 10km. Bone dry.
A great few days in a very dry N Wales. Bouldering conditions would have been perfect and I hope some people were able to take advantage of them.
but in my experience, climbing harder problems than what i've done previously has often brought more interesting/subtle/complex movement with it.I agree, that's why I'm always pushing myself when my body allows (and, it seems, a bit too often when it doesn't). I don't tend to go for many multi-session / multi-year sieges though, as I get bored, and at the moment there's far too much choice of things that have all those benefits but are a bit more likely to be doable.
I wouldn't worry about not being able to tick every problem at a grade before considering yourself able to climb things above that levelI don't worry - I try many things above that level, it's just the happen to have the same grade as that level :whistle:
Did you post here about going up to Mallory or was that Bradders?? (I get confused with tall strong people from Leeds area, apart from Will who stands out in his own very particular way), either way it sounded like a great trip.
Good vids Fiend and it looks like you're going pretty well cruising those 7A's. I can't imagine the 7A+/7B problems you speak of are beyond you with a bit of persistence!Thanks Liam. Yetix was also waffling on to me about "blah blah you could do 7B blah Fiend" (as if I haven't been trying really hard and solidly plateauing at 7A - and the occasional very lucky once-a-year 7A+ - for 2 decades now....). He hushed up a bit when I told him "why do I need to fail on 7Bs when I can just as easily fail on 7As I can't touch - like Northern Soul that I spent 15+ goes unable to do even the first move, right in the middle of the day when I was the best warmed up / not-fatigued, or Emyr's Arete in similar conditions which had two moves I couldn't get near even in isolation, but could imagine possibly doing with a multi-month siege and specific training" :lol:
I too visited North Wales last week and the 6B up the Mallory boulder was glorious! #nongoalbasedclimbing
Pretty sure the stuff I managed quickly in the video was ultra-soft / cheating conditions, but still great fun climbing on an amazing hillside.
Did you post here about going up to Mallory or was that Bradders?? (I get confused with tall strong people from Leeds area, apart from Will who stands out in his own very particular way), either way it sounded like a great trip.
https://youtu.be/jqgd1JEclGw?t=52is at the same craglet.
Sticking this in non-quality because although the climbs are new, the details will be published eventually in South Snowdonia Bouldering. Nothing remotely non-quality about the problems, the rock, nor the setting though:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V8PWH1fRPvQ
Geologically speaking, these grits are much closer to the Cilan grits and a long way from the Carboniferous 'Millstone' grits of the pennines. Be aware that although we bandy around the term grit all the time what we are actually referring to is a specific group of deposits linked by age and area and, crucially as we are talking about sedimentary rocks, the origin of the sediments. The particle size may be the same but if the particles didn't coming from the right range of now denuded mountains, the rock ain't going to be the same. This helps explain why our pennine grits seem to be pretty much unique worldwide.
various Lancs grotholes are West of Forest Of Bowland.
Ah no, now you see Gritstone is a Protected Designation of Origin applying to certain sandstones found south of Wensleydale, west of the A1/M1, north of Carsington Water, and east of the Forest of Bowland.
Diary of a Dog looks particularly lovely.Cheers! You'd like it, old skool vert, about Pex 5b :ninja:
Stretching the definition of a bouldering vid, but this made me laugh.Bosi Alphane downgrade incoming
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m-5jyX-IqHc
Stretching the definition of a bouldering vid, but this made me laugh.Bosi Alphane downgrade incoming
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m-5jyX-IqHc
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/8Q2DKEJHCWQYou don’t post your own in quality vids.
wasnt sure if to post it under quality or non quality bouldering videos
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/8Q2DKEJHCWQ
wasnt sure if to post it under quality or non quality bouldering videos
I've also never been but would like to in the future. The combination of soft for the grade, great scenery and forgiving rock makes it an ideal holiday destination.
My thoughts:
1. If people want to raise the issue of how knackered everything is then post videos of the hordes of punters, tick marks, stashed pads, trashed trails and make it look like the epicentre that is the Everest circus with an Attenborough voice over combo. Don't post a video about problems I've seen countless times making the place look wonderful.
2. Go for the Hueco pass system (without needing the guide)/ max day pass. If you're serious about preservation this will push people to the other areas of Swiss. With the massive rise of instagram/ youtube lead climbing it was inevitable Magic Wood would get trashed.
3. Less nuclear than 2 - set up some kind of project/ shack that's free to stay at, but those staying have to do preservation work/ crag cleaning. Though this will probably be knackering for your days off climbing! Like laying the path at Almscliff. I don't have a van so this would appeal to me and you'd be giving back to climbing.
Uncool crags are uncool because they are shit though.
Uncool crags are uncool because they are shit though.
This is true, but also not true. Some places are definitely in/out of vogue in a way not quite reflective of their quality...
I'm sorry to beat the same old pedantic drum, but when you say the UK, I guess you really mean the Northern Counties and North Wales*?
Apart from Dumby which has a healthy scene, all bouldering venues are effectively deserted most of the time in Scotland.
I'm sorry to beat the same old pedantic drum, but when you say the UK, I guess you really mean the Northern Counties and North Wales*?
Apart from Dumby which has a healthy scene, all bouldering venues are effectively deserted most of the time in Scotland.
*I'm happy to admit I've not got a good handle on where's busy and where's not. South Coast maybe?
I think most people with more than a passing interest in bouldering know about the quality of the bouldering in the more far flung bits of the UK, and I would say the SW England and Highlands and Islands bouldering venues rate among the ‘coolest’ we have, but unfortunately (or fortunately if you’re a local) they are not accessible on a regular basis to the majority of the population.
Uncool crags are uncool because they are shit though.
Uncool crags are uncool because they are shit though.
Various sectors @ RocklandsAt Rockland's maybe sassies (only just over 30 min) and roadside (funny name)
Monstant
Various sectors @ RocklandsAt Rockland's maybe sassies (only just over 30 min) and roadside (funny name)
Monstant
Walked up to montsant today, took just under half an hour.
It's all about the walk in. Ceuse aside, name a busy venue with a approach time over about half an hour.
Various sectors @ RocklandsAt Rockland's maybe sassies (only just over 30 min) and roadside (funny name)
Monstant
Walked up to montsant today, took just under half an hour.
To the Raco de Misa area or elsewhere? I'm always struck by how many people (me included) basically only go to that sector. That must be loads of great walls along that crag.
All true and the most popular Winter bouldering honeypot in the Front Range, Satellites in the Flatirons, is 30 mins walk-in. Tons of roadside boulders availableIt's all about the walk in. Ceuse aside, name a busy venue with a approach time over about half an hour.
RMNP, Mt Evans, Wolvoland, probably a dozen other in Co. that Coops would be able to tell us. Also Red Rocks, think Wet Dream canyon is a decent walk as are a few others.
To the Raco de Misa area or elsewhere? I'm always struck by how many people (me included) basically only go to that sector. That must be loads of great walls along that crag.I’ve been to pretty much every sector at Montsant and there’s a reason Raco de Missa is the one everyone goes to. Not that any of them are shit, but there just isn’t the same concentration of quality routes. Each one is a great crag if you live there and have the time to explore, or done everything at Raco de Missa. But if you’re on a trip for only a couple of weeks then especially if you’re combining it with Siurana and/or Margalef I can see why people don’t bother going anywhere but that one sector. Also doesn’t help that most of them have different approaches so you can’t combine a couple in a day very easily.
I would welcome a 'Montsant Greatest Hits' ticklist Ali!I’ll consult my logbook and also see if I’ve still got access to the old blog I used to write and try and put something together for you! It used to be my favourite place to climb - especially when you’re above the cloud inversion that Siurana and all the valleys sometimes sit in.
I would welcome a 'Montsant Greatest Hits' ticklist Ali!I’ll consult my logbook and also see if I’ve still got access to the old blog I used to write and try and put something together for you! It used to be my favourite place to climb - especially when you’re above the cloud inversion that Siurana and all the valleys sometimes sit in.
If someone fancies splitting this off as a Montsant appreciation thread, I’d be interested too. Also, what’s the deal with guidebooks? Is Tarragona Climbs the best / only option?I was planning to start a new thread once I’ve had time to put something together, but happy for it to be split if that’s best.
Enjoyed that. What’s with all the rubbish everywhere in the undergrowth?
The JABP at Minus Ten
www.youtube.com/watch?v=zRSkVdRvXQ4 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zRSkVdRvXQ4)
Had a play with a more vlog type vid yesterday for the first time rather than mashing together clips with a soundtrack in the background - might do this more often to try and capture a bit more about some of the lines and history of them too:Cracking wee problem. I like the run-through of it and the multiple angles of climbing it. Nice to have a bit of context although was a bit long for me with some of the filler footage (apart from the very end ;) )
https://youtu.be/jdYCRAgmW_c
Proper gnarl. I remember trying once years ago. Seemed desperate at the time, much more than Johnny G 7C for instance, another limestone one mover. Does it compare to any of the Lancs vert stuff?
It looks like Craig Matheson is trying WA at the moment, there's one tick on UKC, how many has it had now? I know Greg Chapman did it, so that's one :)
Where do Walk Away and the sit fit on the Gaskins Fantasy Index (where 1 is a reliably witnessed ascent and 0 is a complete fever dream)?
The sit as well? Unrepeated, unwitnessed (I assume) and seemingly totally rank.
I am sure Blackpool Sam has put time into it too, but I am not sure whether he did it.
I am sure Blackpool Sam has put time into it too, but I am not sure whether he did it.
Doesn't that come with its own :worms:
Not to forget the spectacular haircut!
Which bit of Torbay is that at?It's actually in Crete, the rock is similar to but definitely less good than Torbay limestone.
That's because Crete is closer to the equator so the horizon is more downhill.Not to forget the spectacular haircut!You left out angling camera so climbing looks steeper than it is, but sea has a slope to it.
That's a grand looking spot Rob.Yeah it has the best vista in the glen, just need to secure access then i will release it.
Fantastic Rob. That last shot sums up all that is incredible about highland bouldering. Have a great Christmas
The JABP at Minus Ten
For those of us who struggle at this time of year, here is a tiny taste of hope.That's enough to give anyone hope, it looks ace, and lovely light / setting :2thumbsup:
https://vimeo.com/manage/videos/784137193 (https://vimeo.com/manage/videos/784137193)
Cheers Fiend ;DFor those of us who struggle at this time of year, here is a tiny taste of hope.That's enough to give anyone hope, it looks ace, and lovely light / setting :2thumbsup:
https://vimeo.com/manage/videos/784137193 (https://vimeo.com/manage/videos/784137193)
Instant puntering because you're not as insanely hench as the version of you I dreamed about that time.
p.s. good vid
A 15 minute video of new and old boulder problems that a few mates and I climbed this winter. All within one hour drive from Leeds.
There's a mix of footage that I filmed myself, phone clips supplied by others and even some fancy aerial shots from my mates drone. This was my first proper go at editing a video so it's a pretty poor edit, but I had fun and learnt a lot for the next one!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W9ajy1Ee29M
If you're just interested in the new stuff, that's from around 11 min onwards.
Nice video! Great first attempt
The fall off Golden Shot looked scary! Looks like you'd have missed the pads slightly if you took the same lob again on the send go :o
A 15 minute video of new and old boulder problems that a few mates and I climbed this winter. All within one hour drive from Leeds.
There's a mix of footage that I filmed myself, phone clips supplied by others and even some fancy aerial shots from my mates drone. This was my first proper go at editing a video so it's a pretty poor edit, but I had fun and learnt a lot for the next one!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W9ajy1Ee29M
If you're just interested in the new stuff, that's from around 11 min onwards.
Instant puntering because you're not as insanely hench as the version of you I dreamed about that time.
p.s. good vid
82-84 kg at 6'2. Don't think I've ever claimed different during my time on this forum, although I used to be more like 95kg before dropping the muscle for climbing!
A 15 minute video of new and old boulder problems that a few mates and I climbed this winter. All within one hour drive from Leeds.Special mention has to be made of the ascent of Big Frank at 6 minutes, it was made in a pair of knackered "Climb X" shoes, which were 2 sizes too big and two pairs of socks. One of the most enjoyable ascents I have seen in the last little while.
There's a mix of footage that I filmed myself, phone clips supplied by others and even some fancy aerial shots from my mates drone. This was my first proper go at editing a video so it's a pretty poor edit, but I had fun and learnt a lot for the next one!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W9ajy1Ee29M
If you're just interested in the new stuff, that's from around 11 min onwards.
Special mention has to be made of the ascent of Big Frank at 6 minutes, it was made in a pair of knackered "Climb X" shoes, which were 2 sizes too big and two pairs of socks. One of the most enjoyable ascents I have seen in the last little while.
Special mention has to be made of the ascent of Big Frank at 6 minutes, it was made in a pair of knackered "Climb X" shoes, which were 2 sizes too big and two pairs of socks. One of the most enjoyable ascents I have seen in the last little while.
A 15 minute video of new and old boulder problems that a few mates and I climbed this winter. All within one hour drive from Leeds.Special mention has to be made of the ascent of Big Frank at 6 minutes, it was made in a pair of knackered "Climb X" shoes, which were 2 sizes too big and two pairs of socks. One of the most enjoyable ascents I have seen in the last little while.
There's a mix of footage that I filmed myself, phone clips supplied by others and even some fancy aerial shots from my mates drone. This was my first proper go at editing a video so it's a pretty poor edit, but I had fun and learnt a lot for the next one!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W9ajy1Ee29M
If you're just interested in the new stuff, that's from around 11 min onwards.
Special mention has to be made of the ascent of Big Frank at 6 minutes, it was made in a pair of knackered "Climb X" shoes, which were 2 sizes too big and two pairs of socks. One of the most enjoyable ascents I have seen in the last little while.
Good footage LH98, you utter strong bastards. I didn't know you had to wear hearing aids, fair play.
I too like the bloke climbing in socks and the same £12 Lonsdale trackies that get me up 6Cs....
Sleaford Mods will probably be the way to go then.
I wonder how 360 video will look when seen via UKB. I suspect it depends on which browser you use.
on PC you click and drag to look around - similar on my phone
works better on my phone if using the YouTube app
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8DRi70L34CI
Looks amazing Scragrock, nice one!
Looks amazing Scragrock, nice one!
Very cool. Are you a fan of South African Political Activists? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oliver_TamboThanks :)
Lucky enough (both work and my amazing Wife) to have a bit of a ‘work action’ trip to Font this March. Few raw clips from the holiday, Font really is a good place to take kids. Nature is a good teacher!
https://youtu.be/sz0hkKVSeI8
Finally got back into taking the GoPro out and made a video of various Yorkshire grit I've been getting into since I've moved up here. Got a load of things which I don't think had been videoed before so useful for beta too!Good to see a few of these on film - particularly the full Pinky traverse, which I've fallen off the end of more times than I care to remember! I think what you've called Rachael's Box is actually Rachael's Box Variation and what you've called Rachael's Box Eliminate is the original Rachael's Box (or at least that's how I did them back in the day). If you could go and get a film of Triangular Roof on the same block and show me how it's possible at 6C+ that would be much appreciated!
www.youtube.com/watch?v=r2x14WjhTcc
I think what you've called Rachael's Box is actually Rachael's Box Variation and what you've called Rachael's Box Eliminate is the original Rachael's Box (or at least that's how I did them back in the day). If you could go and get a film of Triangular Roof on the same block and show me how it's possible at 6C+ that would be much appreciated!
Nice one Scraggers. I'd definitely try that 7A sds if I was in the area.
The intro is well scary on full screen!
Such a shame the campsite has now closed. Was a brilliant family spot.
Also I think someone needs to highlight the access to the promontory more, it was way scarier than I expected getting down the descent and clambering over the wedged blocks. I chose to do two separate trips the second time to get my pads over rather than feeling unbalanced trying to carry two full size pads.
Brilliant problems and stunning spot though (especially when the sun is setting over the sea), can't wait to get back up there.
Mmmmmm im a little conflicted by it being closed, the area is clearly regenerating after misuse so maybe it was the best thing longterm.
Also I think someone needs to highlight the access to the promontory more, it was way scarier than I expected getting down the descent and clambering over the wedged blocks.
.... Robbie's guide is a little out of date{needs an update} so search around a bit to get the full list of lines and topos etc
Also I think someone needs to highlight the access to the promontory more, it was way scarier than I expected getting down the descent and clambering over the wedged blocks.
Don't know how to make it much clearer. The guide says "To access the boulders, you need to down-climb or belay down
the steep slab. The climbing is very easy, but the drop is rather daunting." That infers you have to climb in, not walk. Any suggestions.
For what it is worth, I really don't find it that bad. The rock is super secure and there are tonnes of massive hand/footholds. My legendary old dog Minnie could do it by herself, so it can't be that bad :) See 18m42 - https://vimeo.com/232680933
Also I think someone needs to highlight the access to the promontory more, it was way scarier than I expected getting down the descent and clambering over the wedged blocks.
Don't know how to make it much clearer. The guide says "To access the boulders, you need to down-climb or belay down
the steep slab. The climbing is very easy, but the drop is rather daunting." That infers you have to climb in, not walk. Any suggestions.
For what it is worth, I really don't find it that bad. The rock is super secure and there are tonnes of massive hand/footholds. My legendary old dog Minnie could do it by herself, so it can't be that bad :) See 18m42 - https://vimeo.com/232680933
... they are a great resource for someone like myself who only gets to head to Northwest once a year on a family holiday.
Top colour game lagers
The sunset shot is just for you then.
I think that at this point pretty much any form of climbing would be a bit of a nightmare for me.
After getting a bit burnt out on endlessly projecting hard boulders, I switched things up this year, gave up on caring about grades (forced at first, but now I genuinely have no interest in them), and tried to document the highlights in this video. It's hard putting out a video which predominantly features myself as it feels egotistical, but I've tried to tell a story and hopefully inspire others to try something new (the bits of narration were particularly hard work but I've been persuaded to keep them in...). It also features a couple of mates (Garry Lister and Chris Locke) who've been interested in climbing similar things at times.
It's just under half an hour long. If you decide to give it a go, do me a favour and watch with decent resolution and audio :)
https://youtu.be/6r0dOsPo4ms
Really enjoyed that! What's the tantalising arete at 28mins?
https://youtu.be/VwKERMuc1K8Brilliant as always Robbie, great effort :2thumbsup:
Another amazing trip to Sheigra. Perfect weather, and loads of new problems. Ace!
After getting a bit burnt out on endlessly projecting hard boulders, I switched things up this year, gave up on caring about grades (forced at first, but now I genuinely have no interest in them), and tried to document the highlights in this video. It's hard putting out a video which predominantly features myself as it feels egotistical, but I've tried to tell a story and hopefully inspire others to try something new (the bits of narration were particularly hard work but I've been persuaded to keep them in...). It also features a couple of mates (Garry Lister and Chris Locke) who've been interested in climbing similar things at times.
It's just under half an hour long. If you decide to give it a go, do me a favour and watch with decent resolution and audio :)
https://youtu.be/6r0dOsPo4ms
gave up on caring about grades (forced at first, but now I genuinely have no interest in them)Really?!?! :lol: How the mighty have fallen.... Who is going to fly the flag of training / progress obsessed Goal Climbers now?? Wellsy, your time...
It's hard putting out a video which predominantly features myself as it feels egotisticalPfffft, if it's good clear footage of good inspiring climbs - especially they're not ones that feature daily on insta honeypotting, then the whole damn thing can be about you and it will still be good.
gave up on caring about grades (forced at first, but now I genuinely have no interest in them)Really?!?! :lol: How the mighty have fallen.... Who is going to fly the flag of training / progress obsessed Goal Climbers now?? Wellsy, your time...QuoteIt's hard putting out a video which predominantly features myself as it feels egotisticalPfffft, if it's good clear footage of good inspiring climbs - especially they're not ones that feature daily on insta honeypotting, then the whole damn thing can be about you and it will still be good.
And it is good. Good climbs, good quality footage, pleasant soundtrack. I like some of the little nuggets like the background light working Red Alfa. Also the fan on an ab rope and the punter trying The Dawning with a bucket chalkbag on his harness :2thumbsup: Nice that you acknowledge the pre-practised ascents and potential improvements in style there - next video featuring going ground up on a bunch of nails E4-6 6b-cs above bomber gear??
Once you reach +50kg 2rm pull-ups you can quit training - thems be the rules!
Saying this, I have been considering a flash attempt on Deathwatch... It's scary, but looks like fairly basic crimp pulling.
gave up on caring about grades (forced at first, but now I genuinely have no interest in them)Really?!?! :lol: How the mighty have fallen.... Who is going to fly the flag of training / progress obsessed Goal Climbers now?? Wellsy, your time...QuoteIt's hard putting out a video which predominantly features myself as it feels egotisticalPfffft, if it's good clear footage of good inspiring climbs - especially they're not ones that feature daily on insta honeypotting, then the whole damn thing can be about you and it will still be good.
And it is good. Good climbs, good quality footage, pleasant soundtrack. I like some of the little nuggets like the background light working Red Alfa. Also the fan on an ab rope and the punter trying The Dawning with a bucket chalkbag on his harness :2thumbsup: Nice that you acknowledge the pre-practised ascents and potential improvements in style there - next video featuring going ground up on a bunch of nails E4-6 6b-cs above bomber gear??
https://youtu.be/VwKERMuc1K8That's a hell of a haul, nice one, some great looking lines there, especially the 6C-ish vert. I could feel my skin tearing off imagining the coarse sandstone.
Another amazing trip to Sheigra. Perfect weather, and loads of new problems. Ace!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9H6pGLTUv3k&list=LL&index=2
First attempt at putting together a trip film :)) European heatwave meant it's mostly easy stuff but a lot of fun had nonetheless. Mostly chironico ? w a little brione action in there
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9H6pGLTUv3k&list=LL&index=2
First attempt at putting together a trip film :)) European heatwave meant it's mostly easy stuff but a lot of fun had nonetheless. Mostly chironico ? w a little brione action in there
^timestamps for every boulder in the vid description if that's all you wanna see lol
35 mins of the most exciting moderate grades you’ve ever seen, recorded in the sweatiest climbing conditions known to humankind.
“Undoubtedly one of the climbing films I’ve seen in years!” - Some EuroWAD
“I bet one of these guys has a board climbing account” - anonymous informant
“These guys are certainly doing something” - Neil Grime
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9H6pGLTUv3k&list=LL&index=2
First attempt at putting together a trip film :)) European heatwave meant it's mostly easy stuff but a lot of fun had nonetheless. Mostly chironico ? w a little brione action in there
^timestamps for every boulder in the vid description if that's all you wanna see lol
35 mins of the most exciting moderate grades you’ve ever seen, recorded in the sweatiest climbing conditions known to humankind.
“Undoubtedly one of the climbing films I’ve seen in years!” - Some EuroWAD
“I bet one of these guys has a board climbing account” - anonymous informant
“These guys are certainly doing something” - Neil Grime
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9H6pGLTUv3k&list=LL&index=2
First attempt at putting together a trip film :)) European heatwave meant it's mostly easy stuff but a lot of fun had nonetheless. Mostly chironico ? w a little brione action in there
^timestamps for every boulder in the vid description if that's all you wanna see lol
35 mins of the most exciting moderate grades you’ve ever seen, recorded in the sweatiest climbing conditions known to humankind.
“Undoubtedly one of the climbing films I’ve seen in years!” - Some EuroWAD
“I bet one of these guys has a board climbing account” - anonymous informant
“These guys are certainly doing something” - Neil Grime
Aaaaah, reminds me of some early trips - haven't been a on good old team bouldering holiday in years!
Not sure I'll make it through the howl thing - too much on. Couple of things I picked up - while I quite like the old-skool vibe of the sketchy camera work in a way, after about 10 minutes it gets a bit grating. Most phones these days have some kind of motion stabilisation so I'm amazed you managed to...achieve that effect ;-)
Was the "holding can of over-caffeinated sugary drink company-esque drink" at the start ironic? Hope so....
I think for a "mates" video, it's fine being full length as you probably want to keep the memories, but I'd say it would be a bit more engaging and watchable if there were fewer angles and multiple people doing the same problems, and a bit more story to get you hooked in? After a while I just started to not care much and then stopped and came back here to post this...
The over-caffeinated sugary drink was our bid to secure a tenzing-esque sponsorship by winning the favour of a Swiss alternative. Any good bouldering pro at the moment seems to be drinking SOME kind of placebo-juice
As mentioned elsewhere, very cool, such an unlikely formation. Could you climb it on the opposite side, is the slab easy enough to just climb anywhere?
Yeah that looks ace. Granite? How rough is it there?
Definitely. I demand a video of him doing the Alliance if he's 5 '5, that would be awesome. The Thick End of the Wedge vid is good too, presumably the slip is on home cooking?
I'm sure theres been a thread about this on this problem already actually.
Definitely. I demand a video of him doing the Alliance if he's 5 '5, that would be awesome. The Thick End of the Wedge vid is good too, presumably the slip is on home cooking?
Yeah he's well into Home Cooking when he almost bins it. Equal parts hilarious and impressive! Just seems to completely forget how to use his feet having done all the hard climbing :lol:
https://youtu.be/1d00n6-6Et0?si=97hxRvBskROkrPzb
...
The first ascent was done as a crouch, it's not a sit start, it's a low start to Home Cooking. Sam started in the right place.
Definitely. I demand a video of him doing the Alliance if he's 5 '5, that would be awesome. The Thick End of the Wedge vid is good too, presumably the slip is on home cooking?
Yeah he's well into Home Cooking when he almost bins it. Equal parts hilarious and impressive! Just seems to completely forget how to use his feet having done all the hard climbing :lol:
https://youtu.be/1d00n6-6Et0?si=97hxRvBskROkrPzb
Daniel Woods level toping out skills.
I thought he was on his own but there's someone operating the camera, I would have been asking politely for a spot!
Also, he looks more like 5' 7 to me. With +1 ape index
Quite a few people have done it from a true sitter already E.g. Jim and Shauna
Here’s the sitter off a single moon warrior pad, if you’re shorter it basically adds a move into the left hand crimp which most people start on
https://youtube.com/shorts/mFgiUZ0ehp4?si=6iUvKzKUWFJddjnN
175cm - which is just shy of 5'9", with a 5'7" ape.Definitely. I demand a video of him doing the Alliance if he's 5 '5, that would be awesome. The Thick End of the Wedge vid is good too, presumably the slip is on home cooking?
Yeah he's well into Home Cooking when he almost bins it. Equal parts hilarious and impressive! Just seems to completely forget how to use his feet having done all the hard climbing :lol:
https://youtu.be/1d00n6-6Et0?si=97hxRvBskROkrPzb
That makes me feel better about mossatroscity.
Nice Matt, still plenty of quality in there. Anglophobie is ace, didn't it used to get 7A? I remember that span on Rouge-Gorge Assis too!Thanks Duma! Yeah there's a bit of an overlap with the 7A video (Anglophobie assis and Corne De Bizon / Bisonneau) but I figured the semi-duplicates were tolerable (and quite different experiences for me). Yeah Rouge Gorge Assis was....hardly a king line, but I really enjoyed working it out and trying hard on it - fun foot sequences. Note my wee "6C Punter" fan....definitely not allowed a Makita....
posting bouldering videos is mostly about showing off.
What a crock of shit. Are you seriously suggesting any of the videos of Alphane were posted for any reason other than showing off (or variants of, eg sponsorship requirements)? Get a grip.
What a crock of shit. Are you seriously suggesting any of the videos of Alphane were posted for any reason other than showing off (or variants of, eg sponsorship requirements)? Get a grip.
In the short term it's obviously quicker to find a video and then do that beta even if it's not perfect, but in the long run I think you'll be a better climber if you learn to figure things out for yourself.
So no, posting bouldering videos isn't just about showing off. It is providing a valuable resource for the community. Thanks to everyone who contributes to that.All the more reason to post half-decent ones in terms of angles and edits and lack of bullshit, and to NOT FUCKING DAB :lol:
So no, posting bouldering videos isn't just about showing off. It is providing a valuable resource for the community. Thanks to everyone who contributes to that.All the more reason to post half-decent ones in terms of angles and edits and lack of bullshit, and to NOT FUCKING DAB :lol:
Got a bit lucky with the weather over Easter and had a wonderful time in Torridon- can’t believe I have never been. Probably the best single bouldering venue in the Uk for me.
https://youtu.be/XF2eha_X138?si=28BCv_aSvNO1wAsH
Got a bit lucky with the weather over Easter and had a wonderful time in Torridon- can’t believe I have never been. Probably the best single bouldering venue in the Uk for me.
https://youtu.be/XF2eha_X138?si=28BCv_aSvNO1wAsH
Got a bit lucky with the weather over Easter and had a wonderful time in Torridon- can’t believe I have never been. Probably the best single bouldering venue in the Uk for me.
https://youtu.be/XF2eha_X138?si=28BCv_aSvNO1wAsH
Nice vid. What’s the second track? I think it’s a Sufjan Stevens cover, but haven’t found out who the artist is.
Want some lovely boulder problems in a forest on nice fine-grained rock without a glut of Easter in Font offerings??
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eBl49CGEC3c
Got you covered. Some pretty new / recent stuff in this - includes problems from Bonjoy, Bonjoy Jr, dave, nathan lee, LiamHutch98, Fiend, etc.
Proper non quality this:
https://www.instagram.com/reel/C5ls8iJJ7de/?igsh=cnczbnd6Y3h2dGYw
:lol: It was shot in landscape and inexpertly cropped to portrait for Instagram I assume.
The Miterdale forest boulders are less well known then Eskdale Fisherground,