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the shizzle => news => Topic started by: jwi on November 21, 2018, 11:17:26 am

Title: New hardest slab in the world?
Post by: jwi on November 21, 2018, 11:17:26 am
Alessandro Zeni proposes 9a+ for "Ernegica Cosmica" in the Dolomites. I can't understand from the photo if this is indeed a slab or if it is a face climb.

https://www.grimper.com/news-alessandro-zeni-propose-9a-dalle-les-dolomites?fbclid=IwAR0n4RLuKCkENuCZrKS0haEJyl7chdZ8_JKggfiu9LnwaKsVviVXvYdKUlQ
Title: Re: New hardest slab in the world?
Post by: Will Hunt on November 21, 2018, 11:22:13 am
"le crux sordide"

 :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: New hardest slab in the world?
Post by: Fiend on November 21, 2018, 11:47:51 am
Slab vs face definitely matters!
Title: Re: New hardest slab in the world?
Post by: andy popp on November 21, 2018, 11:51:30 am
From some pictures I saw on IG it looks more like a face, albeit off vertical. But all the action shots are taken looking down, which always makes it hard to tell.
Title: Re: New hardest slab in the world?
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on November 21, 2018, 12:42:37 pm
I don't think you'd be using holds that large on a 9a+ slab  ;)
Title: Re: New hardest slab in the world?
Post by: SA Chris on November 21, 2018, 01:57:58 pm
What was regarded as previous hardest? Bain de Sang? Which doesn't look too much like a slab either.
Title: Re: New hardest slab in the world?
Post by: andy popp on November 21, 2018, 04:17:15 pm
Is there some mistranslation going on? Can "dalle" mean a blank, monolithic sheet of rock, even if its vertical?
Title: Re: New hardest slab in the world?
Post by: cheque on November 21, 2018, 04:25:02 pm
Can anyone link to pictures of the route in question? The picture of the guy on JWI's link is apparently of a different route called (majestically for 9th-grade route) Bimbaluna.
Title: Re: New hardest slab in the world?
Post by: jwi on November 21, 2018, 04:33:05 pm
https://www.instagram.com/p/BqVOZf5hDNT/

Verdict: Not a slab. Sorry.
Title: Re: New hardest slab in the world?
Post by: SA Chris on November 21, 2018, 04:37:13 pm
No, but an amazing looking sheet of rock.
Title: Re: New hardest slab in the world?
Post by: Fiend on November 21, 2018, 04:40:31 pm
Thanks for clearing that up. Not a slab = logpile thread  :goodidea:

Bain De Sang is a vertical wall too, has it had much attention apart from Josune's repeat?
Title: Re: New hardest slab in the world?
Post by: Muenchener on November 21, 2018, 04:45:00 pm
Is there some mistranslation going on? Can "dalle" mean a blank, monolithic sheet of rock, even if its vertical?

"Platte" in German certainly can
Title: Re: New hardest slab in the world?
Post by: jwi on November 21, 2018, 04:48:28 pm
Bain De Sang is a vertical wall too, has it had much attention apart from Josune's repeat?

16 repeats according to http://escalade9.wifeo.com/bain-de-sang.php



The original report I linked to wrote dalle, which is definitely a slab. Face is mur.
Title: Re: New hardest slab in the world?
Post by: andy popp on November 21, 2018, 04:53:30 pm
Is there some mistranslation going on? Can "dalle" mean a blank, monolithic sheet of rock, even if its vertical?

"Platte" in German certainly can

That may have been what I was thinking of.
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