UKBouldering.com
places to visit => conditions reports (isitgreasy on twitter) => Topic started by: Richie Crouch on April 20, 2012, 02:13:07 pm
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I assume it is ok to ask about conditions now that there is a published guide?
Has anyone been yesterday or today. What is the seepage like at Woody's/Bullet/Dark Art roof at the moment? Guessing Duke's is out until a dry spell!
On a sort of related note, does anyone know how dry Impossible roof is at Roche?
Cheers :kiss2:
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On a sort of related note, does anyone know how dry Impossible roof is at Roche?
I got told it's perma-dry, but I've never actually been so can't confirm or deny those rumours
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Defo been there when it has been a bit seepy on the shouldery thing in the middle but maybe the rain hasn't been too bad that way! Beef Buttres should be good I guess :)
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http://www.rotherham.gov.uk/info/748/forest_and_woodland_management/383/anston_stones_wood_lnr/1 (http://www.rotherham.gov.uk/info/748/forest_and_woodland_management/383/anston_stones_wood_lnr/1)
Please keep to the footpaths and note that rock climbing is not allowed anywhere in the wood.
Unless I misunderstand it seems pretty clear.
I'll leave time for me to be corrected before I start...
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I believe Mike made an informal agreement with the rangers that bouldering in small groups is fine but not roped climbing or cleaning/removal of vegetation and that paths are stuck to.
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On a sort of related note, does anyone know how dry Impossible roof is at Roche?
I got told it's perma-dry, but I've never actually been so can't confirm or deny those rumours
It's definitely not perma-dry or rain proof.
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Impossible roof is almost permawet! Like most stuff that side of the m1 its supposed to be drier in winter.
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it was wet through on weds
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it was wet through on weds
Is that all crags or impossible roof?
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went yest and wave was in good cond altho just had call from mate to say most of it is now wet! super.
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Cheers, I can confirm most stuff was wet.
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Impossible Roof must have been ok on Friday - Dawid told me he did Serenity RH.
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Went with a safe option and can confirm the Depot was in good condition but my shoulders and back are not so today!
(R Crouch).
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Are there any bits that might be dry today? It's just off my journey south so thought i might pop in on the way.
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Not been recently, but things on dark art roof, ebola buttress and woody's have been climbed recently, so if it doesn't rain on you I suspect there's be something.
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I was there on Saturday, Ebola was mostly wet, I think the dark art wall was ok (the wall to its left with colt etc soaked), but woody's was totally gopping as was Duke's etc. There was a small amount to do at the apprentice area but quite a bit was wet and I'd imagine it has only got worse since. You will probably find something to play on but I wouldn't go far out of my way...
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Cheers, thanks for that. Probably pop into the depot on the way instead then.
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If anyone pops there today could they please give a cond. report. Am wondering about going there this evening. Thank you.
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Not been myself but heard second hand that is was pretty gopping. Sorry I can't be more specific as to areas.
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Nicer out today, did anyone go? Dry?
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There is no such thing as serenity right hand. David said this is serenity but u go up wi your right hand first n not your left. This is not another boulder prob it's the same thing. Limestones great
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Anyone been of late?
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A friend went yesterday to find it gopping wet, I didn't ask if this was due to condensation or traditional rain. Hopefully ok by the evening/tomorrow with all this wind.
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Thanks for that,might givit a miss tonight.
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What a crazy place. It was as primo as I've seen it on Tuesday night.
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What a crazy place. It was as primo as I've seen it on Tuesday night.
agreed tuesday was top, and after a buck load of rain the previous night
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Anybody been down today? I'm hoping the sun and wind may have done good things?
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anyone have info on state of this at the mo
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I was there on Monday evening. Woody's was really wet but most of the wave area, bullet roof,dark art, wave and ebola all dry. Didn't go anywhere else.
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Just heard its wet on the wave.
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Yes it was all condensed out today. Went and popped off holds at the Tor instead!
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Anyone there last night? Specifically Wave area. Ta.
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Was there Monday evening - most things dry enough. Ebola/Alpha part damp and the Dark Art wall was a bit damp but climbable - reckon after yest it will be dry.
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That sounds about par for this time of year. this hot weather probably wont improve things.
Anyone been to woodys?
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Woodys was very wet on Saturday (those of a sunny disposition could probably still climb trench gopfare) but it may have dried off now. However last night, aside from being frickin' boiling, apprentice wall was soaked among other things, it did look like seepage rather than condemn-sation. So I'll stick my neck out and say. . .I don't know
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does anyone know if hidden wall stays dry??
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Everything soaking wet today, was literally dripping in places.
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can second that - couple of probs on rhs of wave area dry enough to climb but not enuff to warrant more than 10 mins climbing! tried hidden wall also but same story.
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any updates??
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I've not been recently, but i bet its dry.
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The wave was mainly all dry earlier today, apart from some smeggy holds still in places... Woody's still soaking though.
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Bullit roof damp but dryable, same for dark art roof; ebola area was dry; duke's wall wet.
Oh, forgot to say, the big foothold on ebola/resonance has fallen off (it wasn't me! it's the one you heel-toe off for ebola). Will make resonance harder, doesn't change ebola for me (heel toe the big wet hole just down R of it instead) but it might be harder for the short now.
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If anyone was there today or is checking it out Sunday, I'd really appreciate a conditions for the wave area, woody's and the into the light roof area. Cheers :2thumbsup:
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Wave area: all dry (usual slight spooge under the roof, but not worse than normal)
Into the light: greasy, maybe dryable with lots of chalk/towels?
Didn't look at woody's
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Ah, assuming that was you tring the prow thing at the right hand end of the wave?
Sorry - should have said hello...I was the short fella trying (and failing) on the 7a thing off the slopy shelf to the left.
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Yup, that was me. :wave: Sorry I wasn't being very sociable, I was getting my ass kicked and thus not in the best of moods! Fortunately a return visit this morning put things right :)
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Guess I could and should have done some introductions at Colt. Didn't cross my mind at the time.
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I'm contemplating my first visit to anston tomorrow and was wondering if I'll be wasting my time due to the weather? If not which problems could i expect to be dry if any? Ta.
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Wave area dry, hidden wall dry up to free mason, woody's soaked
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Wave area currently dry, bullitt etc. wet.
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anyone down last nite or been down today? thinking of making the hours drive tonight to the wave area?
Worth it??
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Probably not worth it if you're a short arse ;)
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Thanks Will
does that mean I can claim 8a for barretta extension then? seems as its a tall mans problem. ;D
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On the basis of peak lime today I'd guess it'll be condensed
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Cheers for the info. :great: might try and search out some dryish grit for a bimble instead
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any reports?
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Any recent reports (I.e. last couple of days)?
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Not been but i imagine condensed.
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Yep - hidden wall, ebola buttres etc all condensed. Lucky only a 20 minute drive from work. Might try again Saturday
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Any updates???
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Wet! :tease:
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Off til wednesday, was really hoping to climb here at least once between now and then, updates appreciated!
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Just spoke to a mate who's been up for a look, Woodys and most of the wave area are wet..............stupid weather!
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Any intelligent guesses as to what conditions might be like this evening?
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Any intelligent guesses as to what conditions might be like this evening?
I'm at work near meadowhall and it's bright, dry and quite breezy, i'd take the gamble
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Friend of mine is bouldering there at moment - says Wave is pretty dry.
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Thanks for the tips - Hidden wall dry except for the 6c at the right hand side, people climbing on Wave wall when I walked past so assume this was dry as well
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any updates from anyone - gaggin to get down there!
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Sunday: wave etc dry, woody's drenched, don't know about the rest
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Sunday: Apprentice wall (don't know if that's what its called) was wet but all problems climbable
Ditto for the wall to the right (Whizz kid wall ?) apart from the top hold which was wet and unholdable
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any recent reports?
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Today: Everything we tried in the wave/ebola area was dry. Hidden wall was dry apart from the last roof holds of Jack the Nipper and 6c at the right end. No idea about the rest, sorry.
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Most of the wave wall area dry or dryable, some start holds a bit greasy but getting better as we left. Frodo wet. Apprentice wall wet. Whizz kid wall damp at the bottom but everything there climbable.
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Any updates? Is Bullitt dry?
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Yes
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Ta.
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Thinking of popping over on Friday morning. Anyone been lately?
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Most of the wave area was in pretty good nick today. Start holds on bullet and the tufa on Alpha were the only damp spots we found.
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Anyone been this weekend/monday?
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Siwid was there yesterday, looks bone dry in the photos, (wave area)
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OK back to usual service today - all of ebola area dry except the usual stuff like the tufa bits near ebola and the 7b+ to its left, and the back of the ebola pocket. rest of the wave area OK but some stuff under the roofs a bit soapy in places. Tons of mosquitos out.
Woddy's area is pretty dank under the roof.
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Frodo was the driest I've seen it today, only damp at the back of the deepest holds, everything I tried was climbable.
All good down by the tracks from Apprentice prow to Whizz Kid.
Dukes drying out too, the warm ups at either end were dry but all the hard stuff inbetween was still damp.
Woody's was damp and infested with horrible flying things.
Wave area dry except for the usual buts like the Alpha tufa. Holds on Black Crow and Dark art felt a bit greasy.
All in all it was looking pretty good!
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Some greasy bits on Bullitt and Alpha but otherwise dry. Someone's snapped the ear off the 7a left of Alpha. Looked very recent.
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Didn't notice if it was there or not on friday morning, shame, last stand and twenty four point nine are good problems. Very wobbly block under the first crimp on Alpha too, hope that's not next to go.
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Some greasy bits on Bullitt and Alpha but otherwise dry. Someone's snapped the ear off the 7a left of Alpha. Looked very recent.
gutted, that ear was marked
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Oh yeah, what used to be a split edge on Alpha just below the jug has become a single two finger edge and is desperate now!
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Oh dear......
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I thought it was always a 2 finger edge anyway? Doubt it is any harder than 7b still!
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It was a 2 finger edge with a separate 2 finger edge down and right for your back two to split onto, and that's now gone.
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Bummer, was hoping to do Last Stand tomorrow. I had shortstuff beta for it too :(
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:wall:
Bummer, was hoping to do Last Stand tomorrow. I had shortstuff beta for it too :(
Last stand is still doable without the ear. It can't be much harder as I'm weak as anything at the moment...
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How did you manage it? I tried it briefly but couldn't be bothered trying to link the two shelves. You are 8 foot tall though.
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You can slap straight from the low shelf past the ear to the sloper shelf ok, alternatively i think there is a little crimp nubbin up and left ofnthe ear instead, and a bigger open sidepull/undercut below it, so something should be there to suit climbers of either gangly or thalidomide proportions.
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But what about those climbers who can't slap and can't work out how to use that open sidepull thing, and can't see that higher crimp because they're blind bastards?
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Then they get the violin out.
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Xan may be a homunculus, but still had to use the ear. I reckon it's gotta be noticeably harder now.
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I went LH into an upside down spikes thing with heel on the starting shelf, then bumped RH to some intermediate crimp below the slopey shelf, then go again to the shelf with RH.
I'm normal height, neither dwarf nor megatron, and it felt entirely unstretched. It was about my third day climbing this year, so can't be desperate, or it was well soft before...
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Went down this afternoon for a few hours, unfortunately, Wave and Bullet seeping when I left at about half 3.
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Any reports from today would be greatly appreciated, thanks.
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Was in bad condition yesterday, a lot of seeping and all the low holds damp. Looks like a big hold / edge has come off on Ebola / Resonate low down near the big undercut.
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Thinking of heading over tomorrow.........anyone been today.........looking any better?
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Gopping today, proper minging.
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Shame
Thanks!
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Does anyone have an update of the conditions - appreciate any info!
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Wave / Ebola / Bullitt walls generally dry today except for the odd damp hold on Bullitt, Alpha, Black crow
Good ear has fallen off "Last stand" (not me!) - up's the grade to about 7a+ /7b - suspect now slightly harder than "Blind bat" to the left
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Anybody want to do a mystic meg and predict winning conditions for the weekend?
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Any update's might be heading there tomorrow.
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You keen for it Peewit? Bringing the Rush Crew?
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I can just picture it now... The coach full of OAP's trundling along the M62 with the rush cassette tape blasting through the speakers!
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;D
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Any updates on what conditions like today much appreciated
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A little smeggy on Sunday but only the starts of Alpha and Bullitt were out-and-out wet.
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Any idea if the Dukes area is dry??
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Hi all,
Anyone been to Anston lately? Is it likely to be dry this weekend? Thinking about making a trip up from Bristol...
Cheers,
Ollie
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anyone been recently? or hazard an edcuated guess for tomorrow? cheers.
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Just called in this afternoon, everything along the wave was greasy :thumbsdown:
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Thinking of heading there on saturday, anybody been this week whats it like?
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Is it worth heading there tomoz?
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Anyone been recently and can give an update?
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We're thinking of heading to Anston on Saturday. Anyone know if it's in condition?
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Does this place seep? Thinking of dropping in at lunch on my way south tomorrow.
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The Wave area seems to being staying dry. I climbed on there last week and there wasn't any seepage. So should be okay.
I'm thinking of heading there on Wednesday, so do let us know if it's in condition still.
Cheers
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Thanks. If it's in condition today I'll try and post from somewhere in Brum tonight, and might see you there on my way back tomorrow!
Does anyone know where I can pick up a guide from on the way here from leeds later this morning? I can manage without today but I'd like to buy one.
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Anyone been down in the last few days?
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Don't suppose anyone has been in the last few days or knows if the dark art/black crow roof is likely to be climbable at this time of year? Ta.
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Not been recently but should be climbable pretty much all year. It condenses fairly easily and gets greasy under the roof (especially black crow holds) - having to do a bit of drying is pretty standard.
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Much appreciated, thanks.
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The Wave and Ebola areas were very good today, hardly any condensation and a good breeze.
(Off topic: does anyone know why most videos of Black Crow I've seen are from standing, when it's in the guide as a sit? Seems odd.)
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Cos people are cheats!
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Cos people are cheats!
Cough *kneepads* cough
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Cos people are cheats!
(http://brain.pan.e-merchant.com/1/2/09993521/l_09993521.jpg)(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/ca/Knee.agr.jpg/250px-Knee.agr.jpg)
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Iron knees? :shrug:
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(http://www.fourwinds10.net/resources/uploads/images/see-eye-to-eye.jpg)
(http://cdn.thedailybeast.com/content/newsweek/2012/10/14/david-stockman-mitt-romney-and-the-bain-drain/_jcr_content/body/inlineimage.img.503.jpg/1350150970240.cached.jpg)
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Lens Mitt?
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Let me help...
(https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQoZAnovIgW05UZ9i6QXd5K3DTXSbH5qBHYj5PGUyQ-OjlCGLUIeg)
(https://encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQWaOO62YBk-lZM8G8r_Z6gYbvH1zI4UBF1jLShLempuZtZscOW)
(https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRuYXU0M73LJyxtPcuU_oHrvGjo16WxkwSdh-KUqV0xRhWk8Gi_)
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Wave area fine with the usual grease under the roofs. Woody's had some runoff on the left but stuff on right hand roof ok
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Anyone been in the last day or so, thinking of chancing it today.
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Any updates??
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Any news?
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What's the chances of it being dry there tomorrow?
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What's the chances of it being dry there tomorrow?
Did you make it to Anston today? Any news?
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Black Crow was dryish and so was most of that roof, ebola area was gopping and bullit roof was seeping too.
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today was pretty similar. the vert wall was fine, but the vision to ebola was very wet with both run off from the top and seepage. bullet was soaking. the dark art roof was damp, but black crow was dry enough and dark art would have fine been given some effort. hidden wall was a mixed bag, free mason was dryish, but nipper was wet.
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Any news? Do people think much will be dry tomorrow?
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went today, ebola area looked very wet, bullet roof partly wet, dark art roof was ok in places, the central wall had some wet holds bit lots climbable on that flat wall. Hidden wall (is well hidden if you've never been before and have no guide! But we managed to find it after a lot of walking!) but it was very wet.
hope this helps
John
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I noticed there was an Anston guide in the March edition of Climber, might be useful for people who can't get hold of the betaguides book.
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:goodidea:
thanks r-man – i just bought this mag, the map will be useful for my next visit.
I tried to buy a guide bought the climbing works and cragx have sold out. And its on the betaguide website to buy.
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I noticed there was an Anston guide in the March edition of Climber, might be useful for people who can't get hold of the betaguides book.
Is it the full guide to Anston or just a selection of problems?
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The article contains a map of all the main walls, with some text on the main/recommended problems, lots of photos. This map combined with a descripitive list of problems (e.g. from UKC log or similar) you should be able to work out what is what and at which section, and perhaps more importantly where each section is located in the woods (particularly hidden wall!).
The magazine article also highlights the sensitive access, which is important to read and adhere to.
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Is it worth chancing tomorrow?
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Conditions would be great I'd have though. Sub zero tends to mean none of the usual greasiness. As to whether you'd want to go there on a winters day...
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The article contains a map of all the main walls, with some text on the main/recommended problems, lots of photos. This map combined with a descripitive list of problems (e.g. from UKC log or similar) you should be able to work out what is what and at which section, and perhaps more importantly where each section is located in the woods (particularly hidden wall!).
The magazine article also highlights the sensitive access, which is important to read and adhere to.
Missed this... anyone got a lead on an unwanted guide (pm me if you do) or perhaps there's a chance of the pdf becoming available??? :please:
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thinking about going tomorrow - anyone been recently??
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:tumble: on Monday at the wave area most things were either wet or covered in ice. The only problems dry were I think beta blocker, black crow, and the probs around fire in the rain. I'd be interested in current conditions if anyone goes.
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Any recent conditions beta? I've never been to Anston and feel the need for novelty this Easter?
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Please...if anyone goes to Anston could you please let me know what it is like. Thank you.
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Any one been recently?
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On Friday dark art roof area was dry but everything else was wet due to melting snow. It was starting to dry a bit when we left so it's probably better now.
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Any one been recently and know what the conditions are like?
Cheers John
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The dark art area was dry today, a few wet bits on the bullet roof and the rh side of ebola buttress. The inset area was all dry except for the odd bit on Dukes wall, it's raining now so obviously it's not a great condition report but I'd have thought it would all be dry again by Monday.
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Was bullet roof dry? More specifically revolver?
Cheers
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I can't remember exactly but I think it was ok, the route to the left was a bit damp in the pockets but dry-able with a towel and the tufa undercling was half wet. Sorry it's not a definite answer but hope it helps. Almost all of apprentice wall/whizz kid was dry yesterday, and the middle of Dukes wall was wet.
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any updates would be massively appreciated!
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I went yesterday having said that I didn't go any further than bullet buttress, meant to but forgot. The whole place seems to be drying out. Spots of seepage and wetness still lurk but it's getting there.
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Any update on conditions yo?
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Any updates? thinking of heading there tomoz.
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Everything on dark art/ bullet roof was dry yesterday, Dukes wall was wet, apprentice/whizz kid were dry.
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Cheers
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Yesterday evening was dryish, under bullet and dark art roof was a bit damp as was the Phoenix and Ebola etc.
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Dukes was dry today...or so i heard from another group of climbers on the way out.
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Wave wall looked as though sewage was seeping out of it. After a few weeks of dry, I was surprised to see it so ming.
Dark art roof seemed all ok. Fine Art too, and bullet roof.
Ebola wet patches, not ideal.
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Something must have changed with the drainage above the crag as that wall used to be perma dry
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Agree with all that groovedog said. I also checked the rocky valley roof thing - this is not a good craglet, but it is also dry.
Has something fallen off into the light? I couldn't see any holds to get from the back of the roof out to the lip???
Pictures in the guide are misleading (i.e. it looks good in the pics but actually involves crawling under a roof filled with litter to climb back up to less than head height).
Hidden wall has more potential, but was quite wet.
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If anyone goes today, or has been in the last couple of days, any updates would be much appreciated.
Cheers
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Dark Art was primo on Saturday. I am sure it will be still dry. Not much rain over this way and plenty of wind n sun.
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Anyone know if woody's rock, is dry at the moment? Looking to try Vanilla Sky...
Cheers
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I don't know for definite but if I was to make an educated guess, after too many years of developing and climbing here, I would say you will be unlucky.
We have had a lot of rain (massive down pours) and the tree cover which is there now will lock the moisture in under the canopy.
The more open areas should be ok if the wind is getting in.
Hope that is of some help.
T
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Woody's rock is never dry....
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Main area fairly dry today, the odd damp hold where you would expect.
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Has anyone been down (or would like to take a guess)? Thinking of an after work hit but ideally don't want to waste petrol if its all gopping.
Cheers
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Wave/Ebola area was in good conditions yesterday, Alpha was the driest I've ever seen it so I'd guess the other areas are good too. Have fun!
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Wave/Ebola area was in good conditions yesterday, Alpha was the driest I've ever seen it so I'd guess the other areas are good too. Have fun!
Great news, thanks for the update.
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Soaked all round today.... Proper seepage... Bugger
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Anyone check it out yesterday??
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anybody been? going tomorow so shall post
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A friend went on Friday and said it was all fine. Not rained since then so I would have thought it would be alright.
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A friend went on Friday and said it was all fine shit. Not rained since then so I would have thought it would be alright.
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Does anyone know if it is dry at the moment?
Most interested in ebola buttress & frodo area.
Cheers.
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Anyone know if duke's is dry?
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Hopefully going today... Hope some stuff is dry
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Slab still wet... Under the roofs still a bit wet but faces dry... So traverse ok
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Slab drying. Under the roofs still smeggy... Ebola better...
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Anybody been this week, will it be dry tomoz mainly interesting in dark art area.
Cheers
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Went Wednesday night and it was allllmmmooost dry under dark art... Rain today though... Ebola awas mostly dry ( the 7b starting on the right at an udercling tufa wasn't) slab still smeggy. Bullet roof holds dry...
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Peewee... If you go down to the woods today (or tomorow) and happen upon hidden wall area could you post up if its dry please man....
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Thanks, will do, I've been several times and have never seen hidden wall dry.
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I know... Gonna go for a look tues though is all
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Did anyone go this weekend?
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Hidden wall wet except jack the nipper and the 6c to the left.... Main area same as always (see above....) the roof above hidden wall looked bad
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Never seen woodys rock so dry... Also never seen midges so angry at me for bothering to turn up...
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Dukes and Apprentice all dry this evening
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Anyone noticed that the large flake on wizz kid (or whatever it's called) has snapped off? Anyone done it since?
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Condensed on Sunday. Not much dry.
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Good yesterday! Surprisingly! Even one or 2 things on the slab where climbable...
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Would be interested to know if anyone has been Tues 6th or Weds 7th morning/afternoon.
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Going tomorow so shall post... Not entirely optimistic... But it's a wacky place sometimes with regards to connies
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Anyone been this week? Thinking of heading down tomorrow.
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V still and humid last night. Some stuff damp (Black Crow etc), most stuff dry enough, with the odd wet foothold.
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I was there Sunday - the start of Alpha was dry enough and the Apprentice area stuff was dry but a bit smeggy / dirty. Not much rain before or since so I guess those parts will only have got better?
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Not much rain before or since so I guess those parts will only have got better?
Almost all the dampness/seepage at Anston seems to operate independant of the rain, its more based on humidity, groundwater or phases of the moon, some shit like that. Unlike most lime its actually generally drier in the winter than the summer.
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True. I went there earlier this year, after around a month of uninterrupted dryness and sunshine, and it was wet through. A local said it had been dryer the previous year in the midst of several months of near-continuous torrential rain - was mooted that the drainage or water table might have been disturbed by some "upstream" activity. Though from what you've said, it might just be inherent crag caprice!
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I go a lot and the conditions just seem random... There's always something dry though
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... speak of the devil (or "the local" from my earlier post).... do you have any recent reports for the "Frodo" / "Nazgul" area? Never been there and am considering a visit this weekend.
Also how do you get there? Someone told me you follow the path from under the viaduct at the information post - just keep going without taking the right turn under the railway to the Wave / Ebola areas. That true? And if you keep going past Frodo, do you eventually reach the Apprentice area? I went last time by following the railway from near the Wave - which seems a less attractive proposition if the trains are running.
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You could really feel the change in humidity as you dropped down into the woods last night. Not a breath of wind. It was good in May last year but I've been once in July and last night and both times a lot of the black rock was gopping. It's definitely a high risk option driving out there from Sheffield. Not to mention the risk of being shot by the paintballing locals!
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I was at the apprentice/ filthy duke area the other night. Bit greasy and humid and plenty of mozzys but all dry and climbable.
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Moose... When approaching the apprentice area on that thin windy path you can see the frodo area up and left.... You have to head up the hill.... Hard to spot in summer and seeps very easily.... Good laugh when it's dry....
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Which "thin and windy path" - the one that runs from under the bridge at the information sign, to the left-hand side of the railway line (i.e. the one you initially follow to go to the wave - but then leave to cross under the railway). I have only been to the Apprentice area once - walking up the railway line from the Wave area - but don't fancy having to go up the tracks on a day when the trains are running.
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Moose when you next heading over? Ill take you hahahaha
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Anybody care to look into their crystal ball for tomorrow? I'm thinking it's still been warm and humid all week, so despite tomorrow's great forecast no wind will have got down there and it will still be a bit damp. Or maybe not. Could do with a web cam really :'(
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Bit late but is it worth chancing tomorrow?
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You've got to be in it to win it. It's all about humidity and so was mostly dry last Saturday (much drier than it's been the previous 2 times I've been this summer). Depends if you have a specific problem in mind? Around Black Crow was still wet, but virtually everything else at that sector was dry..
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Absolutely soaking - not a dry hold in the Dukes / Apprentice areas or the Wave / Dark Art / Ebola area.
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Absolutely soaking - not a dry hold in the Dukes / Apprentice areas or the Wave / Dark Art / Ebola area.
Gutted. A long drive for a sog-fest. Hope you tied it in with another reason to be over that way.
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Nope: three hours of driving interspersed with a half-hour of bog trotting, only to end up at the Leeds Wall! Hey ho..... may well end up doing similar tomorrow (maybe at Craig-y) - though if it's raining when I wake I suspect a Depot & Sky Sports double header will come into play!
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Nope: three hours of driving interspersed with a half-hour of bog trotting, only to end up at the Leeds Wall! Hey ho..... may well end up doing similar tomorrow (maybe at Craig-y) - though if it's raining when I wake I suspect a Depot & Sky Sports double header will come into play!
Dont know if CYL seeps, but it really threw it down that way this afternoon.. I'd be surprised if it were OK tomorrow...
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lashed it down in preston yesterday and had a heavy shower today, very much doubt anything round this way will be dry tomorrow. Especially with more rain forecast.
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Assume anston will be mostly wet now...anyone been?
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Anyone been this week?
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Anyone know if anything is dry at Anston? Forecast for the weekend looks bloody horrible - wet and windy - so I'd be willing to drive a fair way for a bit of steep and sheltered rock... providing it's not seeping.
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No idea on conditions, but if it's actually raining hard Anston isn't that sheltered - it aint like the tor.
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'true - come to think of it I have vague memories of getting soaking wet whilst climbing dry rock (like at Craig-y-L: the climbing might stay dry but the climber generally doesn't!). Still, it's possibly an option if the forecast is for light / intermittent rain, I wouldn't mind the odd break to shelter from rain, so long as the rock isn't being wetted out. It's the wind I'm mainly trying to avoid - forecast is pretty fierce. In Yorkshire everything is either incredibly exposed to the wind (Almscliff, Slipstones) or needs days to dry out (Caley) or both (most of Earl), with the main exception being Brimham (though that tends to be damp and the parking cost makes me reluctant to commit except when a full day's entertainment is certain). Got a horrible feeling it might be another Depot double header!
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Widdop?
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scout crag opposite widdop maybe but you will have to be quick....
http://www.raintoday.co.uk/ (http://www.raintoday.co.uk/)
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Anyone been recently with news of dampness or lack thereof?
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Bump... any chance of dry rock?
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On Sat the 'main' area (Wave, Ebola, Bullet Roof etc.) was pretty much bone dry. The starts of Alpha and Ebola were a little damp but climable (no worse than usual). The pocket hold in the roof on bullet was wet, but other than that everything else was dry. It was sheltered and sunny as well, bonus!
Didn't go to any other areas so can't comment on them.
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Good info. So was Black Crow dry do ya reckon?
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It was all soaked on sunday. Condensation rather than seepage i would say though
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T_B - for what it's worth after the last post, Black Crow was dry.
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Overall pretty wet today. Hidden buttress the best we found with almost everything dry there but most crags gopping, especially the south side ones. Didn't go to the wave but I expect it was ok to climb on given how decent Hidden Buttress was. Seems the higher, northern side crags were freer of much of the condensation, although there was a fair bit of drainage coming down the obvious damp streaks.
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Didn't go to the wave but I expect it was ok to climb on given how decent Hidden Buttress was.
The wave was good yesterday (if you can gain anything from that after the rain). Not sure how seepage/runoff is there...
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Pretty damned dry this morning.... Felt grippy!
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Pretty damned dry this morning.... Felt grippy!
Awesome! Which area were you at? We're heading over in a few hours.
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any chance the dark art / black crow area would be dry tomorrow?
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Both dryable but some holds damp to touch (though I'm not strong enough to get on either!) Most things in and around that area are in roughly the same nick. The less steep bit to the right hand side of this is pretty much dry. Alpha (I think that's what it was anyway) starting hold a bit moist, though that may be my rubbish skin.
Frodo and that lot reasonably condensed and generally a bit grim, I'd probably give it a miss for another wee while.
Woody's was drying reasonably well about a week and a bit ago, the tufas on the start of the unnamed 7a were dripping but useable with drying between attempts, the rest was probably a bit hard for me to be getting on / have enough of a clue about to tell you what was a hold and what was a random bit of rock you might be able to crimp vaguely.
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Cheers for the update, ill hold off for another day.
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What's the jizz?
Any chance it will be dry this weekend?
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Given dry weather and the fact it was pretty much bone dry last weekend, almost definitely. (Depending on what you're wanting to get on.) Haven't actually been back since Saturday though.
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Plus anstons annoyingly random conditions.
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^^^
That's about the wave area. Frodo was pretty horrible. we didn't check the other butresses. Apprentice prow was soaked last wednesday though.
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Keen to get on Black Crow - is this likely to be dry + somewhere to warm up?
Thanks for the replies!
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That section doesn't seep it condenses so can be hard to call. It's always damp so expect to have to do a bunch of drying
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Without looking properly and just feeling the odd hold in that area, it seemed okay on Saturday.
For Warm-ups, everything to the right (vertical section) was bone dry as well as the stuff on the left (bullet roof etc seemed good).
I've been a few times lately about 10am (and once in the afternoon) and it's been nice conditions from the off when the sun's been out.
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Wonder I the current tree clearing will help with the condensing and allow some breeze in... Hope so
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I'm not driving over to find out!
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Dukes wall and Frodo had a fair bit of seepage on Sunday and some bits seeped more as the day went on.
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Primo on the main sector. Woodys dripping
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Anyone been to dukes today?
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Didn't go that far but it smashed it down as I left at 3!
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Anyone got any idea how it's doing?
Cheers
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Temp spike forecast for the weekend, which often leads to condensation, so I'd guess it wont be great there.
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Did anyone head down there today? As bad as abarro predicts?
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There is often some stuff climbable but I wouldn't drive a long way for it....
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Anyone have any thoughts on tomorrow afternoon? Thinking of heading over about 3
Cheers,
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Was there this morning... Bullet roof dr some run off around Ebola but not really affecting any holds... Dark art roof the same as always (smeggy under the roof) slab a bit smeggy but not bad.... Should've ok
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if anyone has any updates be greatly appreciated!!
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Apprentice wall dry today.
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Anyone been in the last few days?
And what is it like early (8am ish), does it suffer from morning condensation much? Heading over tomorrow hopefully, forecast is high humidity...
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Condensation is your main enemy at Anston, so if you think it's a condensey day then under the roofs are likely to be greasy
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Cheers, I'll keep an eye on the weather then. It looks better at Anston than Sheffield, more of a breeze so it could be okay. Will play it by ear.
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If you go today I'd be interested to know how it is..
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Bullet roof to the end of the wave was probably climbable but pretty greasy. Wouldn't want to be trying anything at my limit but was okay for warming up and doing laps of easier things.
The buttress to the right of the wave (Ebaloa, or however it's spelled) was in good nick, though didn't look at the 7C on the RHS.
Woody's rock seemed okay. Tufas for the 7a were damp/soggy. Few drips coming from the roof but nothing looked like it would be affected. Back of trench warfare was wet.
Frodo Buttress was in great nick. Didn't check on The other areas. It rained a bit whilst I was there but brightened up slightly when we left at midday.
Pretty nice morning of climbing.
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Anyone like to guess if Apprentice Wall will be ok this afternoon?
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It'll be fine
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Everything on wave area was in good conditions today, woodys rock was all soaking wet, I didn't check anything else.
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Main area pretty dry this morning
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You mean Dark art/Bullet/Ebola ?
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Yep
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Ok cheers
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Anything specific you want connies of?
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Anyone know if woody's roof is dry at all?
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Right hand of woody's rock dry. Also wave and Ebola areas dry.
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See if Black crow was dry? Last time I was there it was goppy in the undercuts
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Anyone been today ?
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Crystal ball anyone ?
I havent been enough to know where it seeps
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Doesn't so much seep directly from rain, rather weeps from atmospheric connies and groundwater levels. Its not to humid so you might be alright.
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ok cheers
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Any updates on anston at the moment?
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anyone go for a look yesterday?
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If anyone was any updates for Anston would be greatly appreciated! Thank you.
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Ebola area quite damp but dark art/ bullet/ the slab are all dry
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Just Incase anyone was wondering it's completely soaked.... Not a single hold dry....
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Would really appreciate any sort of updates - thinking of going tomorrow.
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Will most likely have dried but will be boiling....
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V wet today :wavecry:
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Any updates?
Cheers
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Been there this morning, most stuff pretty wet, Black crow for example unclimbable, ebola and resonate just about do-able but you'll need a towel for the start holds! holds on monster were awful but Vision do-able, Bullet roof wet but climbable, Dark art/ reservations in pretty good nick! All in all a bit sweaty and grim but still stuff to do.
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Thanks for the update.
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Any recent updates, tempted for tomorrow.
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Some mates went Thursday and said odd bit was dry. Wouldn't drive far....
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Anyone know the state of things? Condensation etc?
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Bullitt dark art etc all spoogy Ebola buttress better but not much. Apprentice wall bone dry. Dukes bone dry but very dusty. Bring a good still brush.
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Anyone been recently?? Any updates gratefully received!
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Frodo and Apprentice were in good nick on Sunday
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Any recent updates - thinking of a trip down on Saturday if I can't get a belay for routes.
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It'll be fine. Go and do this classic.
http://www.peakbouldering.info/areas/7-far-eastern-limestone/crags/173-anston-stones/boulders/801-apprentice-wall/problems/4423-spider-crab-blues#.U_czbPldU1I (http://www.peakbouldering.info/areas/7-far-eastern-limestone/crags/173-anston-stones/boulders/801-apprentice-wall/problems/4423-spider-crab-blues#.U_czbPldU1I)
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Anyone able to offer any kind of conditions report please? Wondering what it'll be like on the morrow. Ta!
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I'd imagine you'll be in luck. It's been so dry recently that I can't imagine there's much left to seep out. I think the last rain was. Monday evening...
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Any recent word on conditions? Thinking of a trip down this weekend.
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I was at Frodo and Dukes on Sunday.
Both were fine, despite the rain on Saturday.
Having said that it pissed it down here on Monday and Tuesday - and some of today as well, so there might well be some seepage
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What are people's thoughts on whether it will be dry tomorrow after all the rain forecast tonight? SW wind tomorrow apparently but doubtful whether it will actually get to the crag in there, anybody reckon there's much chance of Dark Art, etc being dry? Cheers
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Anyone go today?
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Went to Wave area today, mostly really good conditions. Right hand hold on bullet a bit damp though.
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Anybody know what conditions are like here at the moment?
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2nd hand but heard the main area was "mostly dry" today.
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Cheers Alex :)
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Anyone been in the last few days?
cheers
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Yesterday - all dry and good conditions at main area. Apprentice/dukes area wet. Didn't look at Woody's or Hidden Wall.
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Thanks Alex.
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No probs.
P.S. get back on 8a.nu. I like being able to stalk what people are doing!
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He's climbed 9a, he doesn't need a brag card now ;)
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Anyone been this week? Wondering what it'll be like tomorrow. Cheers
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Did you go?
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No didn't bother, bottled it after a wet walk round caley and went to the wall! But thinking tomorrow could be ok with this wind, what do you think? Anyone go today?
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Not sure whether the condensation that I presume happened from the midweek temp spike will have been cleared today and how runoff would be on bullet roof... could be prime though.. hard to call!
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Anyone been recently?
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went to wave area today and nearly all dry, the odd patch of wetness on Ebola buttress but very good conditions else where.
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Including the bullet/revolver roof? Was expecting that to have runoff/snow
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Did you manage to see if Alpha was dry ?
Does Hidden Buttress seep ?
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Stuff on the right at Hidden definitely gets wet, not sure about left and middle.
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ok thanks
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Wave Dry, Dark art roof dryish, Bullet roof quite wet apart from beretta, Frodo damp patches.
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Anyone been recently?
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Wave area reasonably dry today. Wet in the back of some pockets though.
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Anyone been today, and if so was the bullett/beretta roof dry?
Cheers
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Damp/wet to start today but dried off nicely - main area fine later on. Woody's soaked.
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Anyone know what it'll be like tomorrow?
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I went yesterday and conditions were perfect at wave area so reckon it will be pretty good :)
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Has anyone else been down to woodys recently and noticed a) it's soaked b) people have been having fires under it and c) some body has tried to fence it off?
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Yes.
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Totally gopping this am
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Anyone been recently, might head over to the eastern lime tomorrow as weather looks better, thinking aston or roche abbey?
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A mate ticked Dark Art on Thursday so can assume that was dry then. Hopefully someone more qualified to talk will be along soon.
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Today: dukes mainly drenched. Frodo a mixture, mainly dry. Wave area a lot drier than usual: Ebola and the undercut problem left of it all dry. Black Crow wet as always. Dark Art dry, Bullit dry bar a bit of damp in the back of the big roof hold. The prow with the 8b+ on damp. Rest dry.
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Anyone been in the last 24hrs?
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Was there on Wednesday, plenty of stuff dry though a fair bit of seepage on undercuts of ebola and the steeper blacker roof problems.
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Cheers. Sounds like normal service.
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Is anston likely to be dry this Wednesday if it rains on Monday? Thanks.
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I would guess yesterday's warmer temps + today's continuous heavy rain showers = soaked. It would need to be very fresh and windy Mon/Tue for wild horses to drag me anywhere near it's goppy-fickleness. More important is what it does Tuesday?
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Thanks! sorry for late reply. doubt it would be dry saturday with rain friday...? May get on the grit.
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Anyone know if it will be good tomorrow? Font's gopping, need a limestone fix.
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Was there Saturday and it was a bit wet, usual step stuff. There on Wednesday and was a lot better. Black crow bit damp but climbable. Dark art pretty much dry
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Frodo and Apprentice wall were dry last night. First time I've been, great venue.
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Don't suppose you noticed if Black Crow was dry (it's usually wet, even when it's dry)?
Edit: Appreciate you might not have been to that area...
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Afraid I didn't see. Just went for the easy stuff
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Don't suppose you noticed if Black Crow was dry (it's usually wet, even when it's dry)?
Was at the dark fart area last night and all appeared dry, although I didn't touch the holds on Black Crow
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Was there on Saturday and had a few pulls on black crow. Roof/lip pockets were still a bit damp but the driest I've seen them this year. Very doable for the strong I would have thought... Sadly still too wet for me though :boohoo:
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Anyone been recently - interested in visiting Frodo's cave and the Dark Art area tomorrow (Weds) or Thursday. Would be interested in any other suggestions for dry bouldering, out of the forecast showers and gales.
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Frodo's and Dark Art were fine on Thurs/Fri. Looking windy and not humid over the next couple of days, so it should be good, but conditions at Anston seem almost random in my experience!
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Cheers, probably worth a punt. Agree that it's a capricious place - I've found it bone dry after a solid fortnight of rain, yet seepy as hell after two weeks of hot sunny weather.... the conditions seem to obey a deeper rhythm than I can discern (like some piece of free jazz noodling).
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It does better in cold weather than hot, which partly explains why it's like that. Good winter crag.
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I was on the Apprentice wall on Saturday - bone dry when we left. That bit around Berreta was all dry too. Not too familiar with what was where as it was my first visit.
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Can anyone offer a conditions report or even say if there's been much rain in the last day or two? Much thanks.
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Also after a conditions report if possible, ta
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Wave area about as dry as I've seen it last night.
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Bodes well for the weekend :dance1:
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Wave area about as dry as I've seen it last night.
I.e. still some wet holds? Black Crow?
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Crazy talk. When I arrived someone over enthusiastically described conditions as 'bone'. BC damp as ever, I'm ashamed to say I used about half a block of chalk :-[. Brushed it all off afterwards.
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Wave/Ebola area driest I've seen it.
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Went on Sunday afternoon.
Most stuff on Wave/Ebola all dry apart from the low starts. Alpha undercut proper toothpaste for example although things further left on Ebola were all dry.
Tufas on The Un-named on Wooy's were wet but still climbable
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Wave & Ebola was in pretty good nick yesterday except for the odd bit of dampness in the usual places (black crow, white light start holds, start tufa on alpha) but even these seemed climbable for the keen.
If my feeble mind is not playing tricks on me again, it looks like the starting flake on Dark Art has broken. The first move is still doable but the second might be harder without the flake to get your heel on.
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I was at the Frodo area yesterday. Aragorn was wet, a few holds on Nazgul LH were slimy; Nazgul RH and Frodo were dry. By the way, has the undercut of Frodo broken recently - seems smaller than when I last looked at it and there looks to be a scar.
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If my feeble mind is not playing tricks on me again, it looks like the starting flake on Dark Art has broken. .
I was there in March, with a friend who climbed Dark Art in January, and he thought the starting flake may had broken too.
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By the way, has the undercut of Frodo broken recently - seems smaller than when I last looked at it and there looks to be a scar.
A friend of mine broke it when we were there in 2013.
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Anyone know if it's alright?
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The high undercut was still useable, unfortunately, another hold has now broken off: the big left-hand hold you use to get the right-hand slot/pinch. I pulled it off a fortnight ago. Very surprising felt as big and solid as always and the conditions were bone dry but a large (6x6") block with the hold on top just sheared off. Problem likely unclimbable - though it could possibly be glued by someone with the knowledge - the hold itself is intact and I left it under the problem.
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Poor choice of words.... Anyone know if it's dry* :)
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I was at ebola last night. It was ok but quite a bit of damp on the underside of stuff. Anything specific you're interested in?
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Was thinking of going to rocky Valley roof, hidden wall, etc
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Couldn't sat what it will be like. Everything dry on Ebola that doesn't seep. Bits that seep just a bit damp.
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Was there yesterday, everything I looked at around the ebola area was dry, as well as the rocky valley roof and the hidden wall.
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What's the sitch with the guide? I gather from reading a previous post that Beta Guides have stopped printing copies of this?
All that seems to be available on the website is a download of the demo guide (i.e. hasn't got everything in it). Anybody know if there's an official source for the full PDF or should I go on the black market?
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Hi, main area (Dark Art to Ebola) was almost all dry on Saturday but wondering if anyone has been since the rain Sunday /Monday?
Thanks!
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Afternoon all
Thinking of going Friday afternoon. There's a lot of rain predicted tomorrow so was wondering if seepage affects soul crusher and dangerous action man wrestling?
Thanks :)
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So enclosed down there next to the river, I'd have thought it'd be gop-tastic. But it's Anston so there's no way of predicting anything other than Black Crow will be wet ;)
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Seepage doesn't but runoff probably will
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Cheers
Has it rained much around Sheff these past couple days?
Will be going tomorrow afternoon I reckon unless the forecast changes. I'm still new to the area so have plenty of stuff to go at.
Got a bit spooked walking around the Filthy Duke area last time. Felt like the setting in True Detective...
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Nope and quite breezy today, I reckon it'll be quite good.
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Woody's was mint today - all probs in good nick
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Thanks for the replies guys :)
Went this afternoon. The first slot on soul crusher was a bit spoogey. Also the pinch on bullet and most of black crow.
Otherwise some pretty dry rock.
It did hammer it down with rain for about 10 mins whilst I was under Frodo buttress which seemed entirely unaffected.
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Anyone been in the slightly condensey conditions of today?
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Any chance of stuff being dry on Saturday?
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Anyone care to hazard a guess as to how Woody's will be tomorrow? ta
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Anyone care to hazard a guess as to how Woody's will be tomorrow? ta
Quiet.
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That's really helpful
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Bullet/ wave was bone dry wednesday... Didnt check woodys sorry....
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ta!
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So basically i have no idea....
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I'm assuming it's all horrendously fucked?
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I was there on Saturday and Sunday.
Frodo and Hidden roof were both fine. The top of everything was wet at woody's. I only had a brief look on my way past but the top of bullet roof was all wet with run off as was some of dark art roof. Wave wall looked fine and some of ebola was wet at the left end but the right was fine.
Everything that was wet looked to be from run off. There was the odd damp hold but nothing was badly affected by seepage. Some holds were dryer than they were in the summer.
I was thinking of heading down again this evening, is there anything in particular you want to know about?
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Just conditions in general, I'll be down in Newark next week so it's handy for there. Ta!
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Has anyone been down recently? Specifically looking at wave/dark art/bullet
cheers!
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Went last saturday... the wave area was dry then so should defo still be dry... don't know about the other bits though
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Any news on conditions here from the weekend just gone (23/24)?
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Likely all condensed due to rapid temp rise and high humidity.
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Anston conditions were great last Saturday.
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Which particular areas? Been a few times, but not enough to really get a feel for which crags will stay dryer than others.
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Just the main crag around Bullet to Ebola.
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Thinking of trying either Anston or the other place tomorrow.
Anyone been to either in the past couple of days?
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Anyone been down recently? How's it looking? Cheers.
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Anston was in great shape today, not even any seepage on Alpha!
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anyone been recently?
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Was poor conditions on wednesday, everything tucked under a roof was moist feeling
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cheers!
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Anyone know if the dark art roof is likely to be dry tomorrow? Or is that far too optimistic?
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Anyone got an idea how Anstons is looking for the weekend?
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Too fickle to guess in this heat but id guess hot, stuffy and midgy...
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Anstons was in good condition on Saturday. Right side of Woody's rock all dry. Dark Art area, all seemed dry apart from a couple of wet spots on the far right.
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A few damp patches today but otherwise decent conditions.
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Same today
Sent from my GT-I9195 using Tapatalk
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Condensation hell
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Stopped by on my travels. Easier stuff in primo condition!
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Stopped by yesterday whilst driving South. Whole of Wave Wall area in decent nick. Alpha wet as usual.
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Found remains of a small fire under the Dark Art roof yesterday, at the Fire in the Rain end. The place was a bit of a mess (beer cans, food wrappers etc.). Significant amount of soot in the roof. My knowledge of the area isn't great so I'm not sure if any problems run through that part of the wall, orrr if the soot was there from a previous fire. It was getting dark so I didn't get a picture.
I had a general tidy up and scattered what remained of the twig/stick pile so it wouldn't attract attention / to detract re-use.
Make sure to keep an eye out for this sort of thing if you're about.
(I'm not a regular on UkB, I had a quick scan of the boards but couldn't find an appropriate place for this sort of thing. Feel free to move it to elsewhere if necessary)
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Main area basically dry today
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Is it worth coming down from Yorkshire tomorrow? A lot of crap weather going round up this way.
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Anyone know how the main area is doing?
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Anyone been today / care to predict what it might be like tomorrow? Cheers
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I don't know, but i'd be interested to hear how it goes if you end up down that way.
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I predict wet and incredibly wet in places, given how much rain has fallen today. With holds likely to snap off given the fragile nature of the rock.
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:thumbsdown:
Yeah I agree. It hadn't started raining quite as badly when I first posted but by now I reckon it will be a write off.
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Anyone know if it's likely to be dry tomorrow? Saw some people had climbed there today but it's rained a lot where I am and don't know about further north!
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Would be keen to hear about this too, thinking of Anston/Roche Abbey for the weekend.
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Does anyone have a thought on Anston for tomorrow?
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Would imagine largely dry.
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Cheers Dave. Can always retreat back to Yorkshire if not.
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Anston was good today. Wave and bullet areas all dry. Bit of Dampness on Black Crow but it was climbed.
Frodo buttress dry.
Woody's dry.
Apprentice prow area had lots of wet patches but the prow and wall were both climbable. Seemed to be wet everywhere apart from the holds.
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Given the rain in the week, any idea for conditions for tomorrow?
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Anston was mint today. Wave area totally dry, woody's mostly dry, apprentice a bit damp
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Anyone like to hazard a guess whether anything will be dry today?
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I would definitely take a punt.
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Totally bone, cheers.
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Anyone know how its faring after the rain?
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It was bone dry on Wednesday. Wouldn't have thought what's come down since would make too much impression if two days of constant rain didn't.
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Anyone got a recent conditions report?
Specifically black crow.
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Anyone got a recent conditions report?
Specifically black crow.
Everything was bone dry last weekend (Woody's rock was the driest I've ever seen it). I'd guess it'll still be doing pretty well at the moment.
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What will it be like tomorrow? Anything dry?
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What will it be like tomorrow? Anything dry?
As you are a newbie I will patiently explain - a conditions thread can only report what the conditions are like, not what they will be like
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Oh come on Shark- dish out the information. Will's all excited about going out climbing tomorrow...
https://youtu.be/eJuclG1q2fQ
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Shark that's complete bull. I can look at the forecast and figure out whether the crags I know in Yorkshire will be dry for most given tomorrows. I'm not an Anston's local so have no idea how quickly it tends to dry or how much the various sectors seep. I'm only wondering whether there'll be dry stuff at the crag tomorrow.
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Shark that's complete bull. I can look at the forecast and figure out whether the crags I know in Yorkshire will be dry for most given tomorrows. I'm not an Anston's local so have no idea how quickly it tends to dry or how much the various sectors seep. I'm only wondering whether there'll be dry stuff at the crag tomorrow.
I predict a reasonable probability of some dry stuff. Caveat emptor. Nothing ventured etc. See you there. Maybe
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cool
Shark can be Diodorus, Will can be Aristotle and the Anston Conditions can be the future contingent that they use as the basis of their discussion
:popcorn:
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Anston was mint. Like I said
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does that mean that Anston was always going to be mint today?
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That can only be revealed to those with the gift of hindsight
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that's not the same as me admiring someone's behind, is it?
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that's not the same as me admiring someone's behind, is it?
Are we onto Schrodinger's cat now?
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no, I'm still on The Master Argument and The Sea Battle and thinking about arses
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Does anyone know how Anston Stones is faring with this weeks weather? Thinking of heading there on Friday.
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I'll be checking it out later today - will report back.
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It was fine yesterday
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It was fine yesterday
but what about tomorrow?
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It was fine yesterday
but what about tomorrow?
Mint
Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
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Location: Woodys
Condition: Dry
Source quality: Moderately reliable
Independently verified: No
Logged: 12.46 13.9.17
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Woody's was lightly condensed (horizontals damp, verticals dry) but climbable yesterday.
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Thanks everyone!
Will feed this info into ukcrystalballreading.com and see what it says about Friday
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Predictably it was dry. Every time I have been it has been dry therefore it must be permadry.
Shall I lock this tropic?
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Bullet Roof to Ebola all good yest. Starting tufa on alpha a bit damp, but i guess it always is.
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Did anyone go today?
Was thinking of trying Anston or Roche Abbey tomorrow, looks like they should have missed the worst of the weather.
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On Tuesday it was all a bit poo - woody’s and the wave soaked, impossible roof poor.. bit out of date tho..
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After all my wingeing woody’s = minty mint today
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Has anyone been to anston recently? Any idea if it's dry at all? Looks like it might be the only option for Sunday.
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Woody’s was very good on Tuesday
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Any updates this morning much appreciated.
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Any updates from the last few days / predictions for tomorrow?
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Word on anston today from Shark on the peak Lime bouldering FB was not positive. Otters pocket.
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Not good today. Bullet and Wave areas gopping. Right hand side of ebola also bad. Left hand side of ebola buttress not far off but footholds still damp. Didn't go to Woody's but looked grim from across the river.
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Anston mint today
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Have anyone been to Anston or Roche Abbey over the last few days?
Would be good to know how it's holding up after the recent rain
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Word is Frodo is dry and rest likely to be
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Cheers Simon! I think we're changing plan and going to use this glorious day to check Widdop out now though.
Good to know it's dry though. May head down next week
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Woody's is mint too.
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Is Anston okay for Lamp Sessions?
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Is Anston okay for Lamp Sessions?
Opinion is split (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,26747.msg516163.html#msg516163)
:devangel:
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Wave area all good today
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Woody's Roof mint. Some of Ebola and Wave areas climable if you're keen. Dark Art, Bullet, Apprentice, Duke and Frodo all fucked.
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Any reports from today? Thanks
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Woody’s superb today
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Everything bone dry with a lovely winter sun coming through the trees today ;D
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Woodys, wave, ebola and hidden completely dry yesterday.
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Anyone been this week? Hoping to go tomorrow morning and havn't got a clue... :) Suspect it'll be alright...
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Be surprised if it's not ok, been dry, stable temps, low humidity.
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All good (bullet > Ebola) Some seeps low down - but generally fine. Don't know about other areas.... muddy underfoot but rock OK.
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Has anyone been in the last couple of days that can offer some knowledge?
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Anston good today. Majority was bone dry right of bullit. Hidden wall great conditions
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Effort Cheesy
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Ok Nick you were right
Woody’s = poo with seepage >:(
Too pissed off to check out anywhere else..
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Can't say I'm glad but thanks for letting us all know. It'll have to be weekend climbing for the future. Taking annual leave to go climbing does somewhat need guaranteed conditions.
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Woodys was wet on Saturday but everything else we looked at was dry apart from what I mentioned in the post above. Should have persisted
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Anyone been up in the last week or so? Heard it was a little greasy at the weekend, but wondering if it will be worth a look this week with the predicted rains coming in?
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Woody’s not good today - roof holds seeping badly - VS not dryable, intermediate roof crimp on soul crusher wet..
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Hmmm, that's a shame. Going to head up this afternoon and try wave wall and hidden wall. Will post on conditions tomorrow.
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Went on Thursday night, the whole of the wave area was dry, although a few holds we still slightly damp/greasy. Didn't go to woodies myself but was told that the main roof (soul crusher, etc) was dry. On the whole good conditions, and should stay dry for a while now I would have thought.
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Given tomorrow's forecast (strong westerly winds, mid-80s humidity, raining in the Peak but dry further east), does the UKB crystal ball predict a dry Anston?
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Not been raining too much this week - so seepage might not be an issue... isn’t Apprentice Wall more ‘reliable’?
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Couple of resources to assist:
Northbound cameras 102-110 are all J.31
https://www.motorwaycameras.co.uk/england/m1/northbound/traffic-camera/352
Southbound numbers 30-43
https://www.motorwaycameras.co.uk/england/m1/southbound/traffic-camera/384
Weather statiom, you're looking for space between air temp and dew point:
https://www.wunderground.com/personal-weather-station/dashboard?ID=IANSTON2#history
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Nice one TomTom and Nai - thanks
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Any updates from this morning? Guessing awful.
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Beretta was logged there yesterday and looking at the weather station I linked above the readings are very similar to today, so it might be worth a look. Planning to go tomorrow so maye I'm being a bit hopeful
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Occasional damp hold but nearly everything in the Wave area was climbable today.
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Anyone been today?
Thinking of heading there tomorrow but not sure if it will have condensed out today.
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Anyone been today?
Thinking of heading there tomorrow but not sure if it will have condensed out today.
Was at Woodys on Monday and all fine / no seeps etc... so that won’t answer your condensation Q I’m afraid - but general seepyness is probably low.
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Mint today.
Everything on bullet/wave/ebola dry. Nice and cool - friction good.
Evidence that someone has been along with a saw and taken down a few branches and some ivy I noticed.. esp around the ebola area (that was already a bit sparse on the tree/shade front. Not sure why etc.. just sayin...
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Some wetness around Bullet, but all else still dry around Colt/Bullet, but Beretta through Ebola was all dry this afternoon.
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Any updates from yesterday/today? Thanks.
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Any updates from yesterday/today? Thanks.
Only just spotted this, sorry. Been about as good as it gets all week, maybe slightly spoogier yesterday with the temps rise but still dry and good nick
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If anybody goes today/hears any reports, would they be so kind as to post them up here please?
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Was great yesterday eve but that is probably irrelevant by now!
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Any predictions or live updates for today? Thanks.
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Bone dry today
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Any predictions for tomorrow afternoon? Ta
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Any predictions for the bank holiday weekend?
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Has anyone been this week? Weather looks a bit iffy but I am so keen to get out of London.
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I’d be very surprised if it wasn’t all dry...
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I’d be very surprised if it wasn’t all dry...
Thanks! I'll head up then.
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Anyone been down there today? Looking mainly to have a do on apprentice wall area.
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If anyone cares, it was a bit grim. Pockets were a bit seepy, nothing gopping, but holds under roof (e.g. tech nine) were grim, pinging off random stuff due to spoogyness (the good hold on the end). Frustrating! One or two mozzies around but not too bad.
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Anyone been here lately?
Worth a punt, or still too humid and spoogy?
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On tues Frodo was a bit spoogy - Nai said it was crap on thurs but Apprentice Wall was ok apparently.
Suspect not much seepage but depends on wind any condensing etc... I’m in manc af the moment - and whilst it might be completely different over there- I’d guess it’s alright...
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Generally reasonable conditions on the wave and Ebola today.
A bit spoogy on some of the crimps and on the tufas around the black crow, but generally climable.
Not sure how this current deluge will effect things though.
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Anyone know if will have remained dry throughout all this rain over the week? Looking for an outdoor venue for the weekend, not ready to resign myself to weekend indoor climbing yet!
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Anyone know how Anston handles temp increases of 2-3 degrees?
Free on Wednesday and it currently looks like it may be the best option(?), but I've never been before and don't know much about what impacts conditions here. Looks like its been dry for a few days though so my main concern is condensing?
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Anyone know how Anston handles temp increases of 2-3 degrees?
Can't say for sure how it is affected but there are other crags in the area which will be less affected if it is condensed.
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It's considerably more reliable than central peak lime condensation wise in my experience. Rarely seen it wet.
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Depends also on wind direction (and if there is any)... main area (wave/bullet/ebola) normally cops a bit of breeze and does OK...
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can't help re condensation but the main area (bullet / ebola etc.) was dry and breezy on Saturday, though Frodo's Cave was gopping (as I found out after lots of slipping, stumbling, and sliding up a steep mud slope... and then tumbling back down).
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can't help re condensation but the main area (bullet / ebola etc.) was dry and breezy on Saturday, though Frodo's Cave was gopping (as I found out after lots of slipping, stumbling, and sliding up a steep mud slope... and then tumbling back down).
Frodo needs a good dry spell to be decent....
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Pondering Anston with #depotfallbackoption Saturday morning (can’t get out afternoon). Anyone been the last couple of days and know how dry it is? Ta.
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From FB “ Anston mostly condensed today. The odd one doable but generally suggest wait for an 'anti-condensation' weather day or two”
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Thanks. So glad I chose this winter to get back into climbing :(
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You got mail TB
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Anyone been recently?
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Anyone been in the last couple of days?
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Bullet area etc. Think like everything it condensed on Friday. Sat stuff which got sunlight had dried out but sheltered roofs were still holding moisture, no seepage tho so would expect most stuff to be fine tomorrow
Woodies rock. Fucked
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anyone know if filthy Duke is likely to be climbable?
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Anyone been this week? Vanilla sky area?
Tomorrow morning, I'll be aiming for another fickle venue nearby, but hoping to have Anston as a backup!
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Looked dry and somewhat chalked from the other side of the stream just now, but I'm too lazy to walk all the way around. Main area all seems bone dry.
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I've probably left it too late for today anyway, but as a general point, do people imagine/know whether the normal wave area bits would likely be condensed today? It's a bit of a temperature spike (14oC from 10oC yesterday) and overcast according to Metoffice but lowish humidity (65%) and windy (WSW).
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I guess it depends how far your travelling, but I factor in the risk of condensing if there's a temp spike of 3 or more degrees on anything really. There's more nuance to it with dew point etc though (there's a thread on the diamond which is useful for this, but coastal stuff is more prone to condensing I think too(?))
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Has anyone been recently?
On Saturday before last, I was surprised at how all of the section from "the undercut" to "ebola" was seeping very profusely. I'd most like to try Alpha. I'm sort of tolerant of smeg.
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Looking at the forecast for the next couple of days I would imagine it will be condensed tomorrow but alright again on Friday.
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From what it was like weekend before last, the issue isn't the normal condensation dodging but rather whether the first-time-in-living-memory seepage event has passed.
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Totally condensed at Tor yesterday
Routes on right dry enough to climb today.
Even some routes on Two Tier looked climbable.
I’d guess Anston will be ok.
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We were there yesterday and the Alpha/Ebola area was mainly fine but lots of little seepage spots on the whole wall. I did touch the crimp on Alpha and it was a bit wet in the back. Ebola was fine, Resonate had wet footholds. It's raining today so I'd be a bit dubious about every hold on Alpha being dry tomorrow but I think on Saturday it will be OK.
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Awesome, thanks for the info!
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Anyone know what state anston is in at the moment?
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Was pretty limited last Sunday unless you liked traversing on your heels.
Twice I’ve been recently run off has meant all of Ebola buttress has been wet.
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Good knowledge, thanks