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the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: User deactivated. on March 26, 2021, 10:21:43 am
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Anyone tried this? Was it successful?
Suppose it's something that can be set on a board (similar angle), it's rarely dry and eats skin, and you can't currently do the individual moves. Which do you think could be most effective training, if any:
A. Set the exact same size holds and dimensions and try working it until it hopefully goes on wood, then go out and crush.
B. Set it with larger holds, train on this until it's consistent then reduce hold sizes gradually until you can do the replica, then go out and crush.
C. Forget it and try again when you're stronger, or never.
I have a feeling B might be more efficient.
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Anyone tried this? Was it successful?
Suppose it's something that can be set on a board (similar angle), it's rarely dry and eats skin, and you can't currently do the individual moves. Which do you think could be most effective training, if any:
A. Set the exact same size holds and dimensions and try working it until it hopefully goes on wood, then go out and crush.
B. Set it with larger holds, train on this until it's consistent then reduce hold sizes gradually until you can do the replica, then go out and crush.
C. Forget it and try again when you're stronger, or never.
I have a feeling B might be more efficient.
I had an idle day dream about this, lying on the pad on a sunny afternoon in Bovey woods. Wondering if there was a decent 3D scanner/printer combo out there, so I could “mould” the holds and print them and set up replica’s at work. Easy enough to take some measurements but plaster casting/epoxy forming moulds for the holds seems too much hassle.
I would guess there’s a market for doing this with certain classic problems and the tech must be *almost possible now.
Edit:
I had an idea involving cling film and epoxy putty for casting the moulds for the holds. Make a plug, then use a hobby type desktop CAM router to carve wooden replicas.
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Dan Turner did a video about this https://youtu.be/oIxm5yT1wu4.
I set lots of replicas on my board - but to be honest I mainly do it because it gets me psyched.
I tend to set each move with a few options, so I’ll have a cluster of holds which are vaguely similar to go to and I can vary the difficulty. I also set multiple problems which have similar movement to the goal route. I’m yet to see if this makes any difference in the real world though, either way it makes my board sessions far more enjoyable.
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This is pretty much all i do since i built my own wall and it has been very effective{before this i adapted things at my local Wall}.
I do not however set an entire problem{i suspect this would be impossible for most home walls} but focus on crux holds or movements.
I will train outside on similar moves or holds, set a fingerboard routine or training plan entirely round one project.
Is this Not what all climbers do when faced with a climb/route/problem that is at or just beyond their limit?
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Wondering if there was a decent 3D scanner/printer combo out there, so I could “mould” the holds and print them and set up replica’s at work. Easy enough to take some measurements but plaster casting/epoxy forming moulds for the holds seems too much hassle.
I would guess there’s a market for doing this with certain classic problems and the tech must be *almost possible now.
Edit:
I had an idea involving cling film and epoxy putty for casting the moulds for the holds. Make a plug, then use a hobby type desktop CAM router to carve wooden replicas.
Remember an old film of Squawk making foil mounds of the holds on Agincourt to make a training replica.
Surly a 3D printer would be easier to make them.
I've never set exactly for move/s on a specific problem, but sometimes set for a progressing on specific type of move I've struggled to do on a prob, I guess sort of what csl says.
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Bonus points if you're building a replica of Careless Torque :2thumbsup:
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Unless your proj is on a smooth overhanging wall at a similar angle to your board and with similar holds to those available, your replica will always be wrong.. so IMO it's best to generically train certain moves/holds. e.g. if you want to get better at LH deep lock off on a F3 edge then do lots of that; if you want to get better at reaching a RH undercut above your head then do lots of that. I.e. have lots of rough replicas, not just one. This also means you'll have some that are easy and some that are hard. Should probably caveat that I've only ever made replicas for routes, not boulders.
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6 replies and no one posted this.
Mala tempora currunt.
https://youtu.be/vCFLB0lLAl8 (https://youtu.be/vCFLB0lLAl8)
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Who you calling a currunt?
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Dan Turner did a video about this https://youtu.be/oIxm5yT1wu4.
Sold
Unless your proj is on a smooth overhanging wall at a similar angle to your board and with similar holds to those available, your replica will always be wrong.. so IMO it's best to generically train certain moves/holds. e.g. if you want to get better at LH deep lock off on a F3 edge then do lots of that; if you want to get better at reaching a RH undercut above your head then do lots of that. I.e. have lots of rough replicas, not just one. This also means you'll have some that are easy and some that are hard. Should probably caveat that I've only ever made replicas for routes, not boulders.
I like your advice regards particular moves. Fortunately my potential project is on the satellite boulder which is reasonably smooth, crimpy and 40 degrees overhanging. My board is only a few degrees bit steeper, so the only challenge might be length! it could work if I start the problem very low or set it in 2 halves.
Bonus points if you're building a replica of Careless Torque :2thumbsup:
That ones going up the side of my house, I've got a lovely arete to work with!
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https://vimeo.com/168060878 Dave Mac made a Practice replica, quite a nice little vid.
Under a Full Moon would be one of the easiest board replicas to build!
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Bonus points if you're building a replica of Careless Torque :2thumbsup:
If that's the case then practice jumping off a garage/roof at varying heights to replicate those big falls.
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Wondering if there was a decent 3D scanner/printer combo out there, so I could “mould” the holds and print them and set up replica’s at work. Easy enough to take some measurements but plaster casting/epoxy forming moulds for the holds seems too much hassle.
I would guess there’s a market for doing this with certain classic problems and the tech must be *almost possible now.
Edit:
I had an idea involving cling film and epoxy putty for casting the moulds for the holds. Make a plug, then use a hobby type desktop CAM router to carve wooden replicas.
Remember an old film of Squawk making foil mounds of the holds on Agincourt to make a training replica.
Surly a 3D printer would be easier to make them.
I've never set exactly for move/s on a specific problem, but sometimes set for a progressing on specific type of move I've struggled to do on a prob, I guess sort of what csl says.
The Japanese climbers who were trying Burden of Dreams did exactly this.
Under a Full Moon would be one of the easiest board replicas to build!
I had a replica of this on my last board. Should really get it on the new one, especially as I never did manage all of the moves (on either the replica or the real thing!).
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I once made a replica of a problem at the Leeds wall on my board. :-[
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I had a replica of this on my last board. Should really get it on the new one, especially as I never did manage all of the moves (on either the replica or the real thing!).
Second move is flipping nails, need to get back there after Monday!
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Third move too! Packs a lot of difficulty into three moves. At least the first is steady :lol:
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I had a replica of this on my last board. Should really get it on the new one, especially as I never did manage all of the moves (on either the replica or the real thing!).
Second move is flipping nails, need to get back there after Monday!
I went there on Tuesday but the big low footholds were seeping, even the LH crimp was a bit damp at the back. Was quite surprised as I don't think it had rain for several days beforehand. Was it all fine on Monday then?
It's been a long while since I last tried it, but I think I was matching (possibly with just two fingers) before doing the move to the RH gaston thing. I think it took a good bit of string out of the crank.
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It was dry yesterday but the other problems we're mostly wet - geminid trail was soaking. Nice to know there's little chance of this one getting the downgrade treatment judging from the comments
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I went there on Tuesday but the big low footholds were seeping, even the LH crimp was a bit damp at the back. Was quite surprised as I don't think it had rain for several days beforehand.
I think it just takes loads of seepage from the hill behind it. So any rainfall takes a while to actually seep through.
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I’ve a Press replica on my board.
Probably should start using it again as it’ll soon be time for another year...
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I've dabbled with replica's, either indulging as part of my job (I work and set at the Beacon) or more recently on a kilter board.
The best results have been from more generic things like crack machines. In fact I'm toying with building another at the moment.
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The ultimate replica?
https://www.instagram.com/p/CiesMSxsNBN/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
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The ultimate replica?
https://www.instagram.com/p/CiesMSxsNBN/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
Cant wait for them to recreate Carlos Torque