UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: gcarmichael on May 31, 2016, 04:14:26 pm
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Looks like Megos has done Hubble! :strongbench:
https://twitter.com/EthanClimbing/status/737654693103570944/photo/1
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WOW!!! BRILLIANT!!!
:bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:
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6th ascent, significant?
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:lol:
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6th ascent, significant?
FFA.... ;)
first foreign ascent
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"First foreign ascent" - that's a thing now is it?
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Yeah, so is "First Fireman Ascent"
Wonder how hard he thought it was
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"First foreign ascent" - that's a thing now is it?
Yeah. For real. Straight up. Dead serious.
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He made it look absolutely piss :strongbench:
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With
or
Without
?
That's mega ;D
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Without ofc. Megos dislikes kneebars.
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Definitely not significant. 26 year old route gets multi sessioned by a 9b climber. He should walk home in bare feet holding his head in shame (and definitely not come to Wales).
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Definitely not significant. 26 year old route gets multi sessioned by a 9b climber. He should walk home in bare feet holding his head in shame (and definitely not come to Wales).
Threatened there, is it, Boyo?
[emoji6]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Without ofc. Megos dislikes kneebars.
What's that got to do with Clairol?
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7524/26771926344_a0f08962c5_c.jpg)
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He's already planed a trip to lpt doylo
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Any info on number of tries, what he thought of the grade etc?
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He must repent his sins and bow down under Liquid Ambar, kissing the crozzle before scaling the golden overhang of bullet hard pristine limestone. As he tops out and looks across at the golden light on the Diamond he will have finally achieved enlightenment and then I'll let him do The Big Crunch proj.
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Took him several attempts. But did all the moves static on RP. And then got on kabaah. Fell off touching the flake on his first rp. I left then assume he's gonna have another go. He opted for the original steve mac beta on the uper crux. Really impressive stuff. Nobody asked about the grade. Don't think anybody really cared. You climb hubble for the name not the grade
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Nobody asked about the grade. Don't think anybody really cared. You climb hubble for the name not the grade
Someone should have asked.
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This is potentially a bit of a call out to everyone else. It could be really interesting, what happens next - well, could be, if conditions weren't so fickle. Style of ascent too. Will anyone else following, eschew the knee pad? It will be an interesting situation, if the historic interpretation becomes "de rigueur".
I know all of this has been thrown about before, but the pad/sans pad debate seems more relevant, but still hanging. No right answer of course.
Despite the grade, I've got to say that I think this is surely significant, as much for the rarity and historic aspects. I'm probably stating the obvious.
Would have been great to see. Any more photos/video?
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Be good for him to try violent new breed. I'd love to get a climber, of megos's caliber, perspective on that route.
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I'm taking him up to Kilnsey today so he can do Northern Lights. I am wondering if he will want to try the onsight or flash...
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:popcorn:
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:bounce: :popcorn:
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no Mutation?
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:popcorn:
Brilliant stuff.
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Basileus of Macedon, Hegemon of the Hellenic League, Shahanshah of Persia, Pharaoh of Egypt, Lord of Asia..
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7309/27295796132_8103f4f0b0_b.jpg)
King of Kilnsey?
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King of Milky Bars
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King of Milky Bars
That will always be Vickers.
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Basileus of Macedon, Hegemon of the Hellenic League, Shahanshah of Persia, Pharaoh of Egypt, Lord of Asia..
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7309/27295796132_8103f4f0b0_b.jpg)
King of Kilnsey?
If his ears were slightly pointier he'd look like a Lothlorien elve.
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Any word on Northern Lights?
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Second for getting him on VNB.
Would be interesting to see someone that good, repeat an unrepeated Gaskins monstrosity.
Unfortunately, with such limited time there is little sense wasting it on something that isn't fashionable are highly regarded...
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as having been done
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Kairn.com have got this picture (probably not the actual ascent?)
(http://www.kairn.com/files/news/23586152125617-amegos-jpg)
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Same pic is on ukc marked as 2014
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Same pic is on ukc marked as 2014
what's that in UK tech grades?
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Be patient for the footage guys. :) i recorded it and so did yann. Megos has the footage im sure it will be up once the correct sponsers have slapped there logo all over it.
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Same pic is on ukc marked as 2014
what's that in UK tech grades?
Zarg funtus.
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From his instagram https://www.instagram.com/p/BGIElmYSG6r/
"8c+, 9a+ or 8b+. Who cares?! It's the name that counts! And the name is HUBBLE! It's a piece of history! Thanks Ben Moon for putting up that thing and for having a vision! A vision for what is possible, the next step!"
I care. (a little bit.) I'm always slightly disappointed when professional climbers repeat hard things (with debatable grades) and refuse to comment. What are we actually paying him for??
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:chair: whats the grade!!
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Any news from Kilnsey?
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Any news from Kilnsey?
Steve Lewis aka Steve the Pro aka STP and a longstanding buddy of Ben Moon commented on UKC:
Weather was shite up there - very strong winds and cold so no success stories from Kilnsey today though there were a few valiant attempts.
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From his instagram https://www.instagram.com/p/BGIElmYSG6r/
"8c+, 9a+ or 8b+. Who cares?! It's the name that counts! And the name is HUBBLE! It's a piece of history! Thanks Ben Moon for putting up that thing and for having a vision! A vision for what is possible, the next step!"
I care. (a little bit.) I'm always slightly disappointed when professional climbers repeat hard things (with debatable grades) and refuse to comment. What are we actually paying him for??
I would also like to know, even if it's just a personal little musing of what he thought. Wasn't Hubble the worlds first 8c+? I assume people then must have climbed it for the grade? I thought it got touted to be 9a after a visiting wad failed and the grade speculation and Ben Moon myth grew from there. It's probably better for no one to comment on the grade ever again, keeping the aura alive.
8b+. Is he on crack?
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as having been done
I was waiting for that.
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8b+. Is he on crack?
I assumed he meant 8B+
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What are we actually paying him for??
To climb noteworthy climbs whilst marketing certain brands in the process. #Drink over-caffeinated sugary drink company (28 grams of sugar per small can) ;)
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Great news.
Correct me if I'm wrong but this makes Megos the first person to do both Hubble and Action....or at least the first actual properly confirmed time this has happened..?
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8b+. Is he on crack?
I assumed he meant 8B+
yeah, that's what I thought - I guess his accent makes it difficult to hear whether he's speaking in caps or not
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In an Australian-style points immigration system, how many points does "coming over here, refusing to grade our hard routes" score you? Minus figures or what?
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In an Australian-style points immigration system, how many points does "coming over here, refusing to grade our hard routes" score you? Minus figures or what?
So Barrows is being deported then?
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In an Australian-style points immigration system, how many points does "coming over here, refusing to grade our hard routes" score you? Minus figures or what?
I believe the brightest and best German climbers should stay in Germany and help to improve the standard of routes in their own country instead of coming over here, repeating 9as and getting burned off by dave.
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As an aside where are people pulling this bullshit "bouldering grades = capital letters" thing from? #bullshit
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wikipedia innit (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grade_(bouldering))
obviously it wasn't wikipedias idea, they just tell us the truth about what people do
The grades in this system are similar to the French route grades, but have different meaning. An 8a route is significantly easier than an 8A boulder problem. To reduce confusion, some people write the bouldering grades in upper-case letters (e.g. "8B+" vs. "8b+").
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=4024.0;wap
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Good for clarity innit dave.
I believe it was jens 8a.poo first started it, which normally would be a good reason to ignore it, but in this case I think it makes sense.
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Think it's actually the only useful idea ever to come from that site. Stops the V grade idiots from being able to push their inferior grading system as "more clear".
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I'm pretty sure it was Bjorn Pohl's idea. JL has not had a single good idea in his entire life.
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Excellent news. I feel better about using the convention now.
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I'm pretty sure it was Bjorn Pohl's idea. JL has not had a single good idea in his entire life.
Except 'time comparison grading' of course ;)
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Do you also have to shout the capital letters during phonetical explanation?
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It's a bollocks idea, since you can't rely on a consistency of capitalisation in most online content anyway. I've never seen a bouldering guide using uppercase.
It's like having a system where you tell the difference between pounds and pence that relies on the person saying it being stood up or crouching.
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It's a bollocks idea, since you can't rely on a consistency of capitalisation in most online content anyway. I've never seen a bouldering guide using uppercase.
It's like having a system where you tell the difference between pounds and pence that relies on the person saying it being stood up or crouching.
Who's a grumpy bastard today then eh? ;) You're on bloody holiday too!
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It's like having a system where you tell the difference between pounds and pence that relies on the person saying it being stood up or crouching.
or a tiny dot marking the difference and the most important part being whether the number is to the left or the right of the dot - that would be craaaaaazeeey
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It's a bollocks idea, since you can't rely on a consistency of capitalisation in most online content anyway. I've never seen a bouldering guide using uppercase.
It's like having a system where you tell the difference between pounds and pence that relies on the person saying it being stood up or crouching.
Who's a grumpy bastard today then eh? ;) You're on bloody holiday too!
Not grumpy - you'll note I'm using bollocks in lowercase, which indicates mild incredulousness with an air of resignation, rather than the conventional usage in uppercase. It's a standard I've been using for a while but only on my own pet project language website that most people think is a sack of shite. I see no problem here.
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that Craster Crack must be as good as people say
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that Craster Crack must be as good as people say
He was tweeting a request for the Northumberland Apostrophe Polices' number earlier... ;)
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that Craster Crack must be as good as people say
He was tweeting a request for the Northumberland Apostrophe Polices' number earlier... ;)
You'd be spending a night in the cells for that post.
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Can I go in the stocks - where people can throw rotten exclamation marks at me?
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It's like having a system where you tell the difference between pounds and pence that relies on the person saying it being stood up or crouching.
Tonal lsnguages innit? Rusing intonation: route. Falling: boulder
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It's a bollocks idea, since you can't rely on a consistency of capitalisation in most online content anyway. I've never seen a bouldering guide using uppercase.
It's like having a system where you tell the difference between pounds and pence that relies on the person saying it being stood up or crouching.
Can't believe this is new news to you. Get with the programme Ken Wilson.
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do we use italics for top-rope grades?
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Still frenchics afaik
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From his instagram https://www.instagram.com/p/BGIElmYSG6r/
"8c+, 9a+ or 8b+. Who cares?! It's the name that counts! And the name is HUBBLE! It's a piece of history! Thanks Ben Moon for putting up that thing and for having a vision! A vision for what is possible, the next step!"
I care. (a little bit.) I'm always slightly disappointed when professional climbers repeat hard things (with debatable grades) and refuse to comment. What are we actually paying him for??
I would also like to know, even if it's just a personal little musing of what he thought. Wasn't Hubble the worlds first 8c+? I assume people then must have climbed it for the grade? I thought it got touted to be 9a after a visiting wad failed and the grade speculation and Ben Moon myth grew from there. It's probably better for no one to comment on the grade ever again, keeping the aura alive.
8b+. Is he on crack?
Not sure what the 'Ben Moon myth' means? It was upgraded in the new Peak Lime guide, not sure thats 9a being touted around, its a guidebook upgrade. I guess people failing on it had some effect on that but still. As far as the aura goes its a really hard bouldery route which aren't really in vogue. I mean its not La Rambla is it?
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Didn't Ondra say 9a? And he's not done it yet. Case closed.
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It's like having a system where you tell the difference between pounds and pence that relies on the person saying it being stood up or crouching.
Tonal lsnguages innit? Rusing intonation: route. Falling: boulder
Oops, typing on the phone. Sorry chaps.
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It's a bollocks idea, since you can't rely on a consistency of capitalisation in most online content anyway. I've never seen a bouldering guide using uppercase.
It's like having a system where you tell the difference between pounds and pence that relies on the person saying it being stood up or crouching.
Can't believe this is new news to you. Get with the programme Ken Wilson.
TBH I've noticed it it before a few times but it seems such a terrible idea that I couldn't bring myself to actually acknowledge its existence. Basically I thought if I ignored it it would go away. Bit like UKIP or a mysterious lump on your bollocks.
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That's your penis Dave
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Did kabaah today and then evo in 3 goes. Back for mutation next week.
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Effort Hayden.
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Ahh well its all in a days work. Would have done mutation but had to go cure aids this afternoon in the lab. So thats done now too
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Interview (http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/alexander-megos-climbs-hubble-the-raven-tor-interview.html) on Planetmountain.
"Personally I’m not a great fan of kneebars..."
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Good interview. That picture looks like something out of a Jack Willis catalogue though.
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It's a bollocks idea, since you can't rely on a consistency of capitalisation in most online content anyway. I've never seen a bouldering guide using uppercase.
It's like having a system where you tell the difference between pounds and pence that relies on the person saying it being stood up or crouching.
Can't believe this is new news to you. Get with the programme Ken Wilson.
TBH I've noticed it it before a few times but it seems such a terrible idea that I couldn't bring myself to actually acknowledge its existence. Basically I thought if I ignored it it would go away. Bit like UKIP or a mysterious lump on your bollocks.
You mean ukip surely?
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It's a bollocks idea, since you can't rely on a consistency of capitalisation in most online content anyway. I've never seen a bouldering guide using uppercase.
It's like having a system where you tell the difference between pounds and pence that relies on the person saying it being stood up or crouching.
Can't believe this is new news to you. Get with the programme Ken Wilson.
TBH I've noticed it it before a few times but it seems such a terrible idea that I couldn't bring myself to actually acknowledge its existence. Basically I thought if I ignored it it would go away. Bit like UKIP or a mysterious lump on your bollocks.
You mean ukip surely?
:D - and while we are at it... I have just noticed your forum name is dave...
(http://www.newhamrecorder.co.uk/polopoly_fs/1.3492283!/image/1289677459.jpg_gen/derivatives/landscape_490/1289677459.jpg)
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It's a bollocks idea, since you can't rely on a consistency of capitalisation in most online content anyway. I've never seen a bouldering guide using uppercase.
It's like having a system where you tell the difference between pounds and pence that relies on the person saying it being stood up or crouching.
yeah right on dave using capital letters to start a sentence or commas to indicate a pause is totally whack you cant rely on it you should just have everything written in lower case without these stupid grammar rules if you cant rely on it then theres no reason to even try to use it i for one will definitely not be using punctuation or grammar from now on cos its so much simpler than trying to put those stupid capitalists capitals and fascist full stops everywhere but you should know that im typing all of this while standing on one leg that means that im not being completely serious but i guess you know that because the crack youre on has given you excellent powers of perception peace out word
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Hardly surprising he found Kabaah harder. Hubble is four basic moves off the deck two grades below his boulder limit. Kabaah has 18? metres to learn with a droppable crux near the top.
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Interview (http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/alexander-megos-climbs-hubble-the-raven-tor-interview.html) on Planetmountain.
"Personally I’m not a great fan of kneebars..."
Disappointed about his way not to really comment the grade
I wonder if he feels some pressure as FJ local.
If i was the journalist i would have asked: Ok then, do you think it is easier than
AD?
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Interview (http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/alexander-megos-climbs-hubble-the-raven-tor-interview.html) on Planetmountain.
"Personally I’m not a great fan of kneebars..."
Disappointed about his way not to really comment the grade
He's saying it's 8c+ for him is he not? And he's confirmed the Font 8B boulder grade, which was always the grade BM gave it (before McColl tried it and suggested 8B+). What more do you want?
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This clears it up...
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=70492
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This clears it up...
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=70492
He should go into politics...
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Think he needs a paxman treatment
https://youtu.be/Uwlsd8RAoqI?t=4m13s
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Can we get Paxman to interview him?
Edit: Beat me to it!
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Interview (http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/alexander-megos-climbs-hubble-the-raven-tor-interview.html) on Planetmountain.
"Personally I’m not a great fan of kneebars..."
Good interview
I returned to the UK in 2015 but didn’t try it, and now I’m back in the UK because I just wanted to come and climb here. I like the atmosphere, the people, the climbing…
:wub:
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This clears it up...
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=70492
Does it? :-\
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Sounds like he's saying its 8c+ for him but 9a if you're weak :o
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This clears it up...
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=70492
He should go into politics...
Don't let him near Longridge, the fence is getting broken enough already.
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All places on the fence reserved with towels..
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This clears it up...
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=70492
Does it? :-\
Yep.
I remember a little of my "O" level German and I can translate.
He said:
"Climbing grades are so F£&@ing subjective it hurts, now ask me how to solve the crisis in the Middle East, 'coz that's more simples, innit".
Roughly.
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Jens' take on it all is quite amusing. He seems quite distressed by the uncertainty.
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So to decided, Kaabah is 9a? Cool, Ted's climbed 9a
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Had a look at interview with Alex on planet mountain.
In the end you can either do it or you can't.
Grades at the end of the day are subjective as Oldmanmatt/Alex etc suggests.
And also about bragging rights.
I grade climbs either easy - can do.
Or impossible - can't do.
It's simple, no need for fancy numbers or letters.
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I grade climbs either easy - can do.
Or impossible - can't do.
It's simple, no need for fancy numbers or letters.
No middle ground?
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No middle ground?
No, need really.
As others have said why sit on the fence.
Middle ground would be just that, sitting on the fence?
My way a bit like John gills "B" grades but more streamlined...
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I grade climbs either easy - can do.
Or impossible - can't do.
It's simple, no need for fancy numbers or letters.
that's just loser talk
for wood climbers there is just "done" and "not done yet"
the numbers and letters for rock are to help people train for wood
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that's just loser talk
for wood climbers there is just "done" and "not done yet"
the numbers and letters for rock are to help people train for wood
Lagers, is this the John "Dunne" grading system.
He was/is a great climber.
Just simply Duune/notDunne. :)
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Jens' take on it all is quite amusing. He seems quite distressed by the uncertainty.
Has Jens taken down the original Megos Hubble story? I enjoyed reading the comments yesterday, but can't seem to find them today.
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Jens' take on it all is quite amusing. He seems quite distressed by the uncertainty.
Has Jens taken down the original Megos Hubble story? I enjoyed reading the comments yesterday, but can't seem to find them today.
I think its still there!
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Is Jens in some kind of Schrödingers box where Hubble is and is not 9a? I haven't seen/ found the comments.
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Jens' take on it all is quite amusing. He seems quite distressed by the uncertainty.
Has Jens taken down the original Megos Hubble story? I enjoyed reading the comments yesterday, but can't seem to find them today.
I think its still there!
cheers, yeah it's still there. I previously had GBR selected as the country code and the Hubble news doesn't appear in that feed...
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Is Jens in some kind of Schrödingers box where Hubble is and is not 9a? I haven't seen/ found the comments.
Jens attacks UKC and says he finds it strange that they don't report the grade as 8c+/9a before suggesting the grade of 8c+ (9a).
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Which I think is more than 8c+ and less than 8c+/9a.
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I like the conspiracy theory that he hinted at 8c+ to keep Action as the first 9a :-\
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It's easy. Hubble is 8c+ liquid Ambar is 8c, action direct is 8c+/9a.
Germany is similar France is a bit easier and Spain is overgraded. It always worked before and appears to be the same now
And routes that you have to be strong for are more worthy than ones that just need entail fortitude.
The UK and peak in particular should not have anything that could be called soft or easy for the grade period. Upgrading things will mean we have.
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Is Jens in some kind of Schrödingers box where Hubble is and is not 9a? I haven't seen/ found the comments.
Jens attacks UKC and says he finds it strange that they don't report the grade as 8c+/9a before suggesting the grade of 8c+ (9a).
Cheers. I like how the thread of Wheelbarrows climbing Wheel Of Life is pretty much about Hubble again :slap:
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Rubbernecking is a human trait, but every time you click on eight eye you are a part of the problem.
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I find it a fascinating experiment in the power of having the biggest database whilst making sure every single other thing is as crap as possible.
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I find it a fascinating experiment in the power of having the biggest database whilst making sure every single other thing is as crap as possible.
A bit like iTunes...
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He's done Northern Lights now, Mega. hope he does some of the hard stuff on LPT.
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https://instagram.com/p/BGQD1sRSG-2/
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Interesting how it took him longer than Realization...
He's done Northern Lights now, Mega. hope he does some of the hard stuff on LPT.
Shame it's not Diamond season.
Anyone know if he's actually coming to Wales?
Edit: Should this just be changed into a "Megoswad" thread?
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Eighth try of the day? And that's from falling 2/3 of the way up. That's the thing I find most astonishing, I don't know anyone who has more than four RPs a day even on short stuff
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What teaboy said
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All your friends are lazy. Jules regularly has 7-8 redpoint goes on her projects. And quite regularly succeeds at the end of the day.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Grest news!
Looks like I chose the right time to be in charge of the news of an online climbing mag!
STOP PRESS!
:2thumbsup:
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I am suprised not that he had enough gas in the tank for 8 redpoints, he has climbed full time for his whole life it seems, but that he had enough skin, from what I gather northern lights is utterly savage on the tips.
On the hubble grade he seemed pretty unambiguous, it is 8c+ in his opinion.
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He basically said mid 8c+. If he thought 9a he'd probably have said. World likely to keep spinning either way.
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Rainshadow is turning into a popular first 9a tick then.
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Tim, Alex weighs 54 kgs I don't think he could split his tips on a razor blade!
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You should be able to have 8 redpoints if you're a full time climber.
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Progress and True North for Mr Megos today (both 1st RP I think) and a casual onsight of Urgent Action at the end of the day to cool down. I know no other details as I was belaying on the extreme left of the crag and missed all the action! :oops:
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All your friends are lazy. Jules regularly has 7-8 redpoint goes on her projects. And quite regularly succeeds at the end of the day.
Most people today including inspector 5c seemed to think 3 good goes was nearer the norm so I'd challenge what you've said and ask if there's perhaps another explanation (every route of every style at the same grade)? I'd be massively impressed if so. Accepting I AM lazy of course.
On the grade of Hubble (if i dare be so bold) I got the impression he was trying his best to avoid being drawn into the whole debate having simply come to get it done; disappointing as that may be for people needing grade closure. People will draw their own conclusions.
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is he going to Malham? or have the housemartins/sunshine ended it?
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is he going to Malham? or have the housemartins/sunshine ended it?
Malham seems like it'll be hotter than the sun Lynne for the next few weeks
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For me its defo 3 good attempts on top of the warm up bolt to bolt go, then the 4th one will usually be shit. This is the weekend warrior take on it though. Maybe its different for full time uberwads?? Depends on the nature of the route too, a short bouldery one you can have more goes on. On a massive 35m pitch at your limit, walk away after 2 tries! :)
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3-4 good goes is "the norm", but people seem to think it's some unchangeable law of physiology.
I've had this discussion with Mawson before and session fitness is as trainable as anything else. A higher volume in training will allow most to have more good goes per day. Megos is famous for doing huge amounts every day and, lo and behold, can have lots of goes.
It's also worth noting that most of the 3-4 good goes crowd rarely have that 5th or 6th go. Perhaps they'd surprise themselves? I've noticed a common pattern with me where my third or fourth go on a route feels very shabby, but later goes are actually better.
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I've had this discussion with Mawson before and session fitness is as trainable as anything else. A higher volume in training will allow most to have more good goes per day. Megos is famous for doing huge amounts every day and, lo and behold, can have lots of goes.
Megos is a pro climber (truly pro, he doesn't clean windows or do electrical work that I'm aware of?) who is able to have ridiculous numbers of days on without any kind of life responsibilities getting in the way (he probably will have the same number of days in a month that I get in a full UK limestone season utilising my annual leave); he's not a reasonable indicator for people on this thread. I agree it's trainable (he and others are a reasonable indicator of that!). I don't agree that it's practical to do so for the most part / people (high volume = large time input). Perhaps Snr Barros but see the life comments above.
For me its defo 3 good attempts on top of the warm up bolt to bolt go, then the 4th one will usually be shit. This is the weekend warrior take on it though. Maybe its different for full time uberwads??
What Ted said.
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3-4 good goes is "the norm", but people seem to think it's some unchangeable law of physiology.
I've had this discussion with Mawson before and session fitness is as trainable as anything else. A higher volume in training will allow most to have more good goes per day. Megos is famous for doing huge amounts every day and, lo and behold, can have lots of goes.
It's also worth noting that most of the 3-4 good goes crowd rarely have that 5th or 6th go. Perhaps they'd surprise themselves? I've noticed a common pattern with me where my third or fourth go on a route feels very shabby, but later goes are actually better.
Worth noting that it's 8 goes at two grades below Megos's current max. Not 8 goes at his max - would he still get 8 good goes on a 9b? If your missus gets 8 good goes at her proj she could maybe try something harder and have 4.
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That's the common argument, and it's bollocks. I think she did predator on her fifth go of the day. At the time she was definitely an 8a climber pushing her limit to the max.
I totally get what PaulB is saying about high volume training days not being ok for everyone, but my second point is so far unanswered. To anyone saying 3-4 good goes is the limit - when was the last time you tried to have 6+ goes on a project?
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That's the common argument, and it's bollocks. I think she did predator on her fifth go of the day/
and how about something like Comedy? Or something really short and savage?
I totally get what PaulB is saying about high volume training days not being ok for everyone, but my second point is so far unanswered. To anyone saying 3-4 good goes is the limit - when was the last time you tried to have 6+ goes on a project?
Last year, definitely. They were totally rubbish and my potential injury alarm was going mental (think Saltbeef-itis with a rope)! For the more endurancy type things I managed to haul myself up I was basically treating it like training after I thought RPing had gone for the day. Admittedly I didn't get on much requiring that level of effort so I can't comment further.
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That's the common argument, and it's bollocks. I think she did predator on her fifth go of the day. At the time she was definitely an 8a climber pushing her limit to the max.
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I thought you were talking about 8 goes. Fifth go isn't eighth? It's three less :)
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For me if would depend on the length of route. I could have 5/6/7 on shorter stuff but if I get seriously boxed on something long (doesn't happen very often) I'd be in the 3/4 clan. Those without jobs are obviously going to be in the more goes category but agree with Stu most people probably just set a mental limit on number of goes when they could squeeze a few more out. Even if it's just training it's more muscle memory for next time.
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I think most people just can't stand the boredom of resting long enough to recover for the 5-6 attempt.
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Either in training or in real climbing, I never have enough time to have many goes.
On my board, if redpointing a project, I have a maximum of four goes.
On rock I don't know anymore, but in recent times on the ultra rare occasions that see me in the great outdoors, I have taken the rather good habit of climbing things fast. Which feels bloody good.
Main problem for having many goes is often skin.
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At this point in the thread I think we'd all like to know how many goes during the average redpointing session Simon usually has on the Oak...?
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At this point in the thread I think we'd all like to know how many goes during the average redpointing session Simon usually has on the Oak...?
Power Club.
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At this point in the thread I think we'd all like to know how many goes during the average redpointing session Simon usually has on the Oak...?
Power Club.
4.
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It's high time the Oak was addressed in this thread .
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Having a ganders on Vimeo and came across this.
Posted a few weeks ago.
No sound unfortunately.
https://vimeo.com/166856539 (https://vimeo.com/166856539)
Alex M's on fire, no surprise that he got up Hubble and the like, in next to no time.
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It's high time the Oak was addressed in this thread .
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160607/e6cce28b3b70d0051c97684b060cede6.jpg)
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Does anyone know if megos has done Hubble? I've just read six pages about how many redpoint goes to have on a project. Has there been a consensus yet?
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8
(c+)
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Are people really surprised that Megos can have 8 goes on Northern Lights in a day? 7 of those falling after 4 or 5 clips? I saw him have a few goes, and it looked to me like he was falling because it was a low percentage move, not because he was gassed. Hopefully someone who's been on it can clarify, but I've heard it's pretty constant 7C bouldering. I would expect an 8c+/9a climber to be able to train on sets of 7C boulder problems. Hardly surprising that a 9b climber can do it and have some left for something at his onsight max...
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Are people really surprised that Megos can have 8 goes on Northern Lights in a day? 7 of those falling after 4 or 5 clips?
that's a relevant detail.
and the fact he's basically one grade stronger than the route - many seem to forget about this?
i can see myself have 8 goes in similar fashion on a short 7c+ with an odd low percentage crux, my current record being 8a+.
Things will be much different on a route at/above my limit, regardless of how soon i fall off.
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Also, Stu made an interesting point after Megos did it - It still took Megos 2 sessions, with a couple working goes and redpoints in the first (in the bitter cold) and 8 redpoints the next. Stu couldn't think of any routes two grades below his max, or at his onsight max, that would take so long. Does climbing change qualitatively at the higher grades?
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Are you being serious? Stu could Boulder 8a+ and I'm quite sure I could take him to quite a few 7b's that he'd probably never do. I know we're talking about routes but get a fucking grip
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I'm being serious.
1) routes are not Boulder problems. I can't think of a single 8a+ that would take me 8 redpoints.
2) where are these 7bs, you fucker. I'll roast them.
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So you're telling me that you'd be able to do any given 8a+ in a day? I've never heard anything as ridiculous or arrogant. I take it that's your onsight max you're going for and not claiming to do any given 8c in a day as well, which is 2 grades below your max.
We'll move away from the machine that is Stu for a minute, is there anyone else who thinks they'd be able to do this?
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I'm pretty sure that there are some 7c+'s in Verdon that I could never do in this lifetime.
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I'm pretty sure that there are some 7c+'s in Verdon that I could never do in this lifetime.
Or in buoux.
Ah, buoux: On the same trip i've done rêve de papillon as my 3rd 8a ever, and spent a whole day trying fissure serge, always falling at the top with a low percentage beta...several time very close including the last attempt of the day. I must have had almost 10 attempts and any one of them could have been the one...
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If there's a high percentage method on the last hard move of Fissure Serge (for anyone < 190 cm), I'm all ears.
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We'll move away from the machine that is Stu for a minute
Lets not. Name the 7b's.
Good to see Stu motivated again.
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I bet Megos would have put a hefty stack of Deutschemarks on pissing any given grit 8a on a cold december day.
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I bet Megos would have put a hefty stack of Deutschemarks on pissing any given grit 8a on a cold december day.
He must have demanded a good few ££ to fluff his lines on the Joker then? ;)
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Climbing's first example of spotfixing? I have not heard any reports of irregular gambling patterns.
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I'm pretty sure that there are some 7c+'s in Verdon that I could never do in this lifetime.
Exactly. The above, as I pointed out to Ben on FB is a blinkered view on sport climbing IMO (there are some Old Skool FHard routes in the Gorge and other places!) and IF like Ben's original post and you/he were talking about RP then I simply point you towards the work of Markus Bock (let alone the harder things at Buoux).
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Climbing's first example of spotfixing? I have not heard any reports of irregular gambling patterns.
Thats why Shark has given up on the Oak this summer - too many irregular bets placed after his 'i'm close' Jihad video..
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Back to Stu.
What are the reachiest, most lank dependent 7Bs we can think of? Pebble Wall Eliminate thing at Almscliff must be a good start but may actually oddly favour those who are shorter for ease of getting bunched on the undercuts.
Is the 7 Foot Dyno at Pex given 7B?
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If there's a high percentage method on the last hard move of Fissure Serge (for anyone < 190 cm), I'm all ears.
i remember something involving a shitty mono intermediate, getting the feet a bit higher, and slapping at the scoop when you are already really high.
It works if you feel strong on the mono and you can lockoff the right hand hold really really low.
i was dynoing to the scoop from the last decent holds, which feels much easier in isolation.
a strong and short friend (165cm) having tried both betas, felt that the dyno would be an easier boulder problem but is indeed very low percentage, while the intermediate/semistatic method is noticeably harder, but 100% sure to go if you can do it. He did the route with the mono method and looked totally in control.
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So you're telling me that you'd be able to do any given 8a+ in a day? I've never heard anything as ridiculous or arrogant.
Or, you could read what I wrote? I "can't think" of any 8a+ which would take me 8 goes. I'm sure if UKB racks their brains they might think of one and it will probably be a slab, or stupidly reachy*.
Yes, this is my onsight max*. You might think it's ridiculous or arrogant, but simple facts back me up: I've climbed a lot of 8a+s on a range of angles and rock types. The last time I can remember one taking me more than 3-4 goes is around 10 years ago, when my onsight max was ~7c+/8a.
*Let's not forget, the reason I mentioned this to Ben was that, based on my own experience, I was mildly surprised that Alex took 8 goes and 2 days on a route at his max onsight level. So if UKB can find some verdon horrorshow I can't redpoint then chapeaux to the hive mind, but it's hardly surprising or relevant. Northern Lights is not a slab, or a ludicrously reachy trick move. Having thought about it, the reason is clearly that Alex's best onsight is 2 grades below his best redpoint, whilst mine is 6.
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Having thought about it, the reason is clearly that Alex's best onsight is 2 grades below his best redpoint, whilst mine is 6.
Particularly since 9a possibly isn't his 'onsight level' in the terms of something he can do with any regularity/confidence. He only on sighted his first 8c+ at the end of last year more than 2 years after his 9a onsight.
'Megos also made lightening fast work of Victimes del Passat at the Catalonian crag to finally onsight his first 8c+. Two and a half years after making the groundbreaking world's first 9a on-sight - Estado Critico at Siurana - and skipping both 8c and 8c+ onsights in the process, Megos has now added this degree of difficulty to his list of achievements.'
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Apparently Megos is at the cave - reading between the lines of Doylo's tweet...
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I even hear he might eat over that way tonight!
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Rarebit?
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So you're telling me that you'd be able to do any given 8a+ in a day? I've never heard anything as ridiculous or arrogant.
Or, you could read what I wrote? I "can't think" of any 8a+ which would take me 8 goes. I'm sure if UKB racks their brains they might think of one and it will probably be a slab, or stupidly reachy*.
Yes, this is my onsight max*. You might think it's ridiculous or arrogant, but simple facts back me up: I've climbed a lot of 8a+s on a range of angles and rock types. The last time I can remember one taking me more than 3-4 goes is around 10 years ago, when my onsight max was ~7c+/8a.
*Let's not forget, the reason I mentioned this to Ben was that, based on my own experience, I was mildly surprised that Alex took 8 goes and 2 days on a route at his max onsight level. So if UKB can find some verdon horrorshow I can't redpoint then chapeaux to the hive mind, but it's hardly surprising or relevant. Northern Lights is not a slab, or a ludicrously reachy trick move. Having thought about it, the reason is clearly that Alex's best onsight is 2 grades below his best redpoint, whilst mine is 6.
you told me you failed on Supercool, and that's 8a+ going on 8a
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So you're telling me that you'd be able to do any given 8a+ in a day? I've never heard anything as ridiculous or arrogant.
Or, you could read what I wrote? I "can't think" of any 8a+ which would take me 8 goes. I'm sure if UKB racks their brains they might think of one and it will probably be a slab, or stupidly reachy*.
Yes, this is my onsight max*. You might think it's ridiculous or arrogant, but simple facts back me up: I've climbed a lot of 8a+s on a range of angles and rock types. The last time I can remember one taking me more than 3-4 goes is around 10 years ago, when my onsight max was ~7c+/8a.
*Let's not forget, the reason I mentioned this to Ben was that, based on my own experience, I was mildly surprised that Alex took 8 goes and 2 days on a route at his max onsight level. So if UKB can find some verdon horrorshow I can't redpoint then chapeaux to the hive mind, but it's hardly surprising or relevant. Northern Lights is not a slab, or a ludicrously reachy trick move. Having thought about it, the reason is clearly that Alex's best onsight is 2 grades below his best redpoint, whilst mine is 6.
you told me you failed on Supercool, and that's 8a+ going on 8a
bollocks
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True that, well remembered. But I only had three goes. Also, if you remember it was my first week climbing after three months off with injury!
The "when fit" was hopefully implicit.
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Last Crusade at Dulas?
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as i'm sure you're aware, i'm only listing these in the interests of being a dick - not to make a point about Megos and Hubble
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Just got in from the Megos show in the Cave. Fairly shocking , definitely the strongest blonde German I've ever seen. He started out in the Pass today, did Pools of Bethesda then the sit Malcs Start, 8b. In the Cave he did Directors Cut (sans kneebars) 8b, the 2nd ascent of East Coker 8b and finished off with Louis Armstrong 8b. Total animal, never seen the like. It was obviously all so far beneath him.
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4 8B's in a sesh. Not that bad.
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[emoji50]
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:o :bow:
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Jesuschrist.
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Someone change the thread to Megoswod?
that really is insane!
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And conditions were far from ideal as you can imagine! He had to dry the whole of Louis Armstrong!
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It's impressive to do that to the Cave, I've seen beasts in there before and they don't usually destroy the place as it takes a while to learn and there are lots of tricks. Didn't matter to Megos though, another level. Plus Directors and East Coker are hard 8b (and maybe Malcs??).
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Makes a difference from last time he went to the cave when you said he was shit :P
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Never said that. He didn't try anything hard last time .
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Liar!
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Pete Robins reports that he's just done Louis Armstrong into Trigger Cut, 8B+ FA.
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Change the thread to megoswad!
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What are the tides like at the moment? Any chance he'll get downstairs?
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What AF2 said. Is it peeing it down in N Wales or something? How come he's in the cave instead of on liquid etct, or up in ogwen on Isles of Wonder and that other 8B Robins did?
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What AF2 said. Is it peeing it down in N Wales or something? How come he's in the cave instead of on liquid etct, or up in ogwen on Isles of Wonder and that other 8B Robins did?
Kidnapping?
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The weathers been vile, humid haze over the land. Glad no one took him downstairs in this. Finished off with another 8B Dernier Atrocitie. So 5 8Bs and a 8B+ FA in 2 days. Think he's leaving UK tomoz.
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So is he having another sesh tmrw morning or is that the megos show over :(
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http://youtu.be/5YJh5ZRHg58 (http://youtu.be/5YJh5ZRHg58)
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Wow looks about 6C
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Never mind the cave power endurance nonsense monkey boys just reported that Alex did perky pinky and milk it in a few goes each! :'( :strongbench:
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Was unreal to watch. First time I've seen someone that strong climb, totally amazing to see.
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Never mind the cave power endurance nonsense monkey boys just reported that Alex did perky pinky and milk it in a few goes each! :'( :strongbench:
Is there video of this? would love to see it
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what's pinky perky / milk it? Google was most unhelpful..
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what's pinky perky / milk it? Google was most unhelpful..
Old school School Room problems I believe. Pinky Perky was mentioned in One Summer I think as the hardest problem in the world. (That last bit could be complete fiction on my part)
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https://vimeo.com/169306583
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https://www.instagram.com/p/BGoSc7hyGw9/?taken-by=alexandermegos
Didn't Simpson do Pinky Perky? :worms:
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FFA ;)
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https://www.instagram.com/p/BGoSc7hyGw9/?taken-by=alexandermegos
Didn't Simpson do Pinky Perky? :worms:
#malcolmsmith
8)
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Shark been at the vodka again?
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Alex has flashed The Path, a 5.14a at Lake Louise or 8b+. :o From his Crackbook page:
"BÄÄÄM!!! 2 days after doing the FA of "Fightclub" I managed to FLASH the @sonnietrotter classic trad route "The Path" 5.14R at Lake Louise! 40m of fiddling in tiny gear and with a bunch of bouldery sections! Going group up not having at all much experience with placing gear was an interesting and new experience for me!"
I guess that might be an E10 flash, at least an E9 although I'm no tradster :smirk: :smirk:
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Alex has flashed The Path, a 5.14a at Lake Louise or 8b+. :o From his Crackbook page:
"BÄÄÄM!!! 2 days after doing the FA of "Fightclub" I managed to FLASH the @sonnietrotter classic trad route "The Path" 5.14R at Lake Louise! 40m of fiddling in tiny gear and with a bunch of bouldery sections! Going group up not having at all much experience with placing gear was an interesting and new experience for me!"
Is the the route that Tim Emmett has been repeatedly posting about?
I guess that might be an E10 flash, at least an E9 although I'm no tradster :smirk: :smirk:
Really? http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=16268
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Flipping awesome!! Really hope there is some footage of this!
:punk: :bow:
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Alex has flashed The Path, a 5.14a at Lake Louise or 8b+. :o From his Crackbook page:
"BÄÄÄM!!! 2 days after doing the FA of "Fightclub" I managed to FLASH the @sonnietrotter classic trad route "The Path" 5.14R at Lake Louise! 40m of fiddling in tiny gear and with a bunch of bouldery sections! Going group up not having at all much experience with placing gear was an interesting and new experience for me!"
Is the the route that Tim Emmett has been repeatedly posting about?
Yes that's right. Haha, you got me there! I have been known to wobble up the odd HVS... ;)
I guess that might be an E10 flash, at least an E9 although I'm no tradster :smirk: :smirk:
Really? http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=16268
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https://www.instagram.com/p/BJo_ulbhdg9/
Dream catcher in a day! :bow:
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So Hubble took him longer than Action Directe, Biographie and Dreamcatcher and it's still 8c+. :tease:
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https://vimeo.com/180455358
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That start...
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Has the crack to the right of the start seen any attention, cool line but looks hard!!
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https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=E2DO-Vhajck (https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=E2DO-Vhajck)
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=pXjWZeIx-yc (https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=pXjWZeIx-yc)
Eric Karlsson's YouTube channel is a lot of fun for lovers of plastic.
Here Eric and his mates meet up with Alex M.
Highball top out fun, as usual AM makes it look easy as he climbs higher.
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https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=EgT9Wnzu8dw (https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=EgT9Wnzu8dw)
Alex working a hard problem.
Ouch those holds are tiny and sharp.
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Word on the street is that Megos did Ondra's Los Revolucionarios, 9a on Kalymnos second go some times last week. Apparently he then warmed down with a handful of stuff in the 8b-8c range, but that's old hat.
source: friend who was at the crag with him.
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He did it 2 years ago.
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So he did. Hard life when 9a, 8c and 8b in a day is old news.
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Word on the street is that Megos did Ondra's Los Revolucionarios, 9a on Kalymnos second go some times last week. Apparently he then warmed down with a handful of stuff in the 8b-8c range, but that's old hat.
source: friend who was at the crag with him.
I was at the crag with him that day too. He had done Los Revolucionarios 2nd go before. He was just repeating it for fun. I have to say I was pretty much overawed with how easily he walked up it as a repeat. He'd put the clips in the day before. On the day he just did it. I didn't particularly notice him warming up even. He made a small noise like he was trying a bit once. People stopped watching him as he made it look so trivial. Also crushed the 8c+ next to it (Gora Gora Gutarak I think) in similarly casual fashion the next day. Just looked so easy for him, way way below his limit.
I didn't see but he also did an 8a in his flipflops as a random challenge!
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Alex Megos just did the first ascent of “Supercrackinette”, an old project in St. Léger, at 9a+.
Source Pierre Délas /Fanatic climbing (http://"http://www.facebook.com/fanatic.climbing/posts/1674403396203516")
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https://www.instagram.com/p/BMMipfgjdEC/
He's done the Trainspotting project at Gothenburg, 8B+ apparently, seems pretty mild for something well known and amazing looking.
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Looks like grit
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It seems from Instagash he's in the peak - Anyone know what he's been on?
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Surprise entry to Battle of Britain?
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It seems from Instagash he's in the peak - Anyone know what he's been on?
He's over for Kendal next week but just came early to train and hang out.
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Surprise entry to Battle of Britain?
Should have picked some lottery numbers too...
https://twitter.com/depotmanchester/status/797414312470056960
Nice photobomb by Dobbin there... :)
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I heard he was over to settle a certain score with his wildcard nemesis.
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Céüse's Jungle Boogie, 9a+, in three tries.
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Céüse's Jungle Boogie, 9a+, in three tries.
Ondra did the FA in 2012 and I thought it was three days, not 3 tries. Or has someone else done it in three tries?
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Céüse's Jungle Boogie, 9a+, in three tries.
Ondra did the FA in 2012 and I thought it was three days, not 3 tries. Or has someone else done it in three tries?
Doh! This is Megoswad thread! I understand now. Just a bit slow today
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he's repeated the Finnish Line https://www.instagram.com/p/BW2wbGKBDQq/
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is that the longest he has ever spent on any rock climb?
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is that the longest he has ever spent on any rock climb?
Lucid dreaming took him 11 days, in the video of it he says that was his longest project with the second longest he'd spent being 6 days. Will be good viewing when he gets drawn in by something even harder.
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I think he's on 3 days and counting for The Joker.
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Having stood underneath the 'Finnish Line' a few weeks back I'm seriously impressed at this. Top class from Nalle to have the vision to do something so mind bending in the first place but also fairplay to Megos for having the giant Kahunas needed to go and try such a line!
P.S. I am yet to see a picture which even half does the line some justice yet. Think Careless Torque at 30 degrees overhanging with another 2 metres added on the top and a total dogshit, slopping tree platform landing. Only thing I've ever seen which I literally cant comprehend anyone climbing!
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Yeah it's a seriously impressive piece of rock! I'm a bit disappointed nobodies taken a more landscape-y shot of it because it's hugely aesthetic.
This is a shitty shot I got whip wandering around looking at other stuff, it starts just behind the tree https://imgur.com/gallery/nVSvf
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http://www.climbing.co.za/2017/08/alexander-megos-sends-a-life-in-the-orange-at-boven/
SA sends. Superbowl is such a great piece of rock.
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Twelve routes 8c or harder in 8 days (and two 8b+ and a training session indoors apparently). Among them four 9as: Speed Integral, Im Reich des Shogun, Coup de Grace and Sid Lives.
Eric Talmadge worked Im Reich des Shogun took on and off for thirteen years before climbing it in year 2000, since then it's only been repeated by Adam Ondra and now Alex Megos.
https://planetgrimpe.com/2017/09/une-semaine-de-folie-pour-alex-megos/
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8c+ flash, is that news nowadays?
According to Fanatic Climbing, Megos flashed Capricorn, the hardest route at Leonidas. Capricorn is a 12 meters Killian Fischhuber route originally graded 9a but recently downgraded to 8c+ when a better method was found.
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He's nipped in for a quick repeat of Era Vella according to fanatic climbing on facebook.
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Has done Perfecto Mundo, Margalef mega project.
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What a hero
https://instagram.com/p/BikRmNwH28F/
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Today? It's warm, humid and no wind. Far from perfect conditions.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DXnJo_BaZ-s
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Nice vid.
And there was me, all the way through that endless shakeout, thinking, was that a bit of tension @1.35? - which seemed to become increasingly irrelevant.. until.. doh! :slap:
;D
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The moves on that look incredible.
Megos always looks like he finds himself so light. He almost floats up half the time.
Anyone know how long this took him? Quickest ascent of a 9b+?
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The moves on that look incredible.
Megos always looks like he finds himself so light. He almost floats up half the time.
Anyone know how long this took him? Quickest ascent of a 9b+?
Yes. 15 days I think.
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Scary strong on pockets. I hope he has saved some 9a+s in Margalef for onsight attempts.
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(https://memegenerator.net/img/instances/80700556/perfectamundo.jpg)
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He joins the club! That overhang is a shocking place.
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The boy has a weakness. Very excited about going to a Taylor Swift concert.
Maybe his route is only 9b.
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9a+ max after admitting that shit.
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According to Le Crux - Pizzas - Céüse, Megos has done the Bibliographie project in Céüse. Bolted by Ethan Pringle and widely believed to be 9b+ or c.
Link (https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=133706385069549&id=111921283914726)
(http://lizardclimbing.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/IMG_4217.jpg)
pic stolen from http://lizardclimbing.com
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Just seen an Instagram story from some french climbers at the cliff confirming the above. Awesome news!
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Brilliant news. Hopefully the name stays. Reading your initial post I thought the restaurant name was what he'd named the route!
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:o bon effort! Also that's a shit load of pizzas he's celebrating with.
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He’ll probably call it Das Pumpenhausen Testpiece II
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Excellent, Céüse really does look stunning! And also brilliant to get the news via the pizza van!
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Excellent, Céüse really does look stunning! And also brilliant to get the news via the pizza van!
The pizza-chef is Laurent Girousse who also wrote the guidebook and have bolted and rebolted many routes.
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Ah cheers jwi. Still feels more wholesome than IG.
Little bit of detail on the route here:
https://www.grimper.com/news-alex-megos-enchaine-potentiel-9c-ceuse
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Google translate of the Grimper article
Yesterday, in the evening, Alex Megos went to the pizzeria "Le Crux" in Céüse to buy food and to celebrate a historic cross that could perhaps claim the title of the hardest path in the world: "Bibliography" . Nothing official yet for the quotation, and an uncertainty remains between the 9b and the 9c before any announcement of the principal concerned, even if, according to the rumors, the 9c is the preferred track.
He had been trying this route for several years. It is just to the right of the mythical 9a + "Biography" that the German climber repeated in just 4 climbs in 2014. "Bibliography" is divided into three very distinct sections: an 8c approach which leads to a hanging rest on two good holds , then an 8B boulder on which you have to engage in a 9a + of pure resistance which goes up the huge belly until the wall straightens, for a total effort of about 35m.
At the end of 2019, Alex Megos released a new Patagonia collaboration film: Rotpunkt. Magnificent images especially with his first and unique 9b +: "Perfecto Mondo" at Margalef. But also, with the first images of "Bibliography", which cost him an incomparably greater investment. We will therefore know very soon, and will not fail to let you know, if "Bibliography" becomes the second proposition in 9c in history after the famous "Silence" of Adam Ondra. More info to follow
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Over 40 days at the time of the Patagucci filming so must be approaching 50 days of effort. Mark Leach sieging energy :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench:
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an 8c approach
The walk in does indeed feel about 8c in 30 degrees.
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Google translate of the Grimper article
Yesterday, in the evening, Alex Megos went to the pizzeria "Le Crux" in Céüse to buy food and to celebrate a historic cross tick that could perhaps claim the title of the hardest path route in the world: "Bibliography" . Nothing official yet for the quotation grade, and an uncertainty remains between the 9b 9b+ and the 9c before prior to any announcement of from the principal concerned protagonist, even if, according to the rumors, the 9c is the preferred track where it most likely ends up.
He had been trying this route for several years. It is just to the right of the mythical 9a + "Biography" that the German climber repeated in just 4 climbs tie-ins in 2014. "Bibliography" is divided into three very distinct sections: an 8c approach which leads to a hanging rest on two good holds , then an 8B boulder on [top of] which you have to engage in a 9a+ of pure resistance power-endurance which goes up the huge belly until the wall straightens, for a total effort of about 35m.
At the end of 2019, Alex Megos released a new Patagonia collaboration film: Rotpunkt. Magnificent images especially with his first and unique 9b +: "Perfecto Mondo" at Margalef. But also, with the first images of "Bibliography", which cost him an incomparably greater investment. We will therefore know very soon, and will not fail to let you know, if "Bibliography" becomes the second proposition suggested in 9c in history after the famous "Silence" of Adam Ondra. More info to follow
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Over 40 days at the time of the Patagucci filming so must be approaching 50 days of effort. Mark Leach sieging energy :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench:
Pretty sure that he had more than ten days on it this summer ...
We saw him fall very very high on it a few days ago.
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an uncertainty remains between the 9b and the 9c
9b+ then.
And agree the walk in is about 8c.
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an uncertainty remains between the 9b and the 9c
9b+ then.
And agree the walk in is about 8c.
Never trust a bilingual dictionary, and never-ever trust machine translation.
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Has to be 9c or the Megos grade calculator is broken. 14 days to do Perfecto Mundo and 50+ days to do this suggests this is 9c, or Perfecto is 9b...
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Céüse is harder than Margalef. This is not new?
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Could be a difference in styles, difference in other factors like walk-ins, conditions, etc etc. Perfecto could be soft / standard 9b+, this thing hard / top-end 9b+.... #armchairgradedebate
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Céüse is harder than Margalef. This is not new?
Harder than most places!
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Céüse is harder than Margalef. This is not new?
Harder than most places!
Great news, great route on a great crag. Ondras 9c looks pretty uninspiring albeit on an amazing crag. This looks like what 9c should look like.
As for the above comment it puts a smile on my face. In a time long ago Ceuse was thought of as a little bit of Spain in France grade wise.
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Was saying the same thing earlier; properly inspirational line, in contrast to Ondras which just looks nails.
Off topic, but the only conclusion to the grades comment is things were wrong a long time ago then! France is tough in general I agree.
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Off topic, but the only conclusion to the grades comment is things were wrong a long time ago then! France is tough in general I agree.
How can French grades be wrong in France?
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Basically french climbing was Buoux and Verdon. Ceuse was the new boy on the block and if you spent most of your time at the 1st two, as many of us did, Grades at the later seemed like a bargain.
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Anyway back to the news. This looks amazing and being located on one of, if not thee, best piece of rock in the world makes it even more outstanding.
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With the exception of the narly bouldery starts on Berlin Wall, I never thought ceuse was particularly sandbaggy. If anything it's a lot more forgiving than somewhere like rodellar where there's not really anywhere to hide if you haven't got the specific strength and fitness. Ceuse always seemed like hard climbing but good rests.
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Megos has given it 9c (according to his post on IG).
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9-motherfucking-c!! :dance1:
Gotta say it looks a bit bland and homogenuous in the photo, typical featureless plod. Where's the V15 crack climbing and kneebars?? ;)
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9-motherfucking-c!! :dance1:
Gotta say it looks a bit bland and homogenuous in the photo, typical featureless plod. Where's the V15 crack climbing and kneebars?? ;)
Thats after the double dyno onto the pink slopey volume :)
Whats wrong with a 9C crimp plod? :D where you start with 20mm edges/crimps and they diminish by 1/2mm and get 2cm further apart as you get higher...
That said I like Ondras Flatanger things where there's all sorts of odd body positions and weird knee shit going on...
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I’d love to celebrate this achievement but I’ve no idea if Megos eats healthily enough. Does anyone have the details on that? ;)
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Great news, great route on a great crag. Ondras 9c looks pretty uninspiring albeit on an amazing crag. This looks like what 9c should look like.
It's not a competition, they're both incredible bits of climbing in their own ways, by two amazing climbers. That said, this made me chuckle:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CDkQy3iDhD_/?igshid=1bsx2okgyxgfp
If I had to put money on it, I reckon Bibliography will be repeated before Silence is.
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Great news, great route on a great crag. Ondras 9c looks pretty uninspiring albeit on an amazing crag. This looks like what 9c should look like.
It's not a competition, they're both incredible bits of climbing in their own ways, by two amazing climbers. That said, this made me chuckle:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CDkQy3iDhD_/?igshid=1bsx2okgyxgfp
If I had to put money on it, I reckon Bibliography will be repeated before Silence is.
No doubt. I'd raise the bet to Ondra repeats Bibliographie before Megos does Silence!
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Great news, great route on a great crag. Ondras 9c looks pretty uninspiring albeit on an amazing crag. This looks like what 9c should look like.
It's not a competition, they're both incredible bits of climbing in their own ways, by two amazing climbers. That said, this made me chuckle:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CDkQy3iDhD_/?igshid=1bsx2okgyxgfp
If I had to put money on it, I reckon Bibliography will be repeated before Silence is.
:D
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One more thing. It's presently in the 30s in Gap. I know Ceuse is a lot higher and cooler, but still, hardly primo?
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Pretty normal in that part of France, no? Once the shade hits it gets pretty cool in the shade in my experience and there is often a breeze up at the cliff. No doubt would be better in the autumn but it definitely seems to be viewed as a summer crag by most.
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I think you can still get pretty amazing evening conditions even when it's hot down in the valley.
Must've been a very different experience trying a project like that, basically centre stage at one of the busiest crags out there, compared to ondra working silence in relative peace and quiet.
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Dunno, I spent 3 weeks in july there the year after moving from SA, and it was pretty hot (almost too hot) most days. Guess the sectors I was on didn't overhang by 30 degrees though.
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Great news, great route on a great crag. Ondras 9c looks pretty uninspiring albeit on an amazing crag. This looks like what 9c should look like.
It's not a competition, they're both incredible bits of climbing in their own ways, by two amazing climbers. That said, this made me chuckle:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CDkQy3iDhD_/?igshid=1bsx2okgyxgfp
If I had to put money on it, I reckon Bibliography will be repeated before Silence is.
The climbing on silence looks amazing, more interesting than this I guess, but the line is not great in the flesh, In fact it’s about the least inspiring one in the cave.
Megos route looks a much more impressive “non “ line.
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Dunno, I spent 3 weeks in july there the year after moving from SA, and it was pretty hot (almost too hot) most days. Guess the sectors I was on didn't overhang by 30 degrees though.
I lived there the summers of 91 and 92 and thought conditions were great on the Berlin/ biography sectors. Cascade more of a winter venue, perfect in the sun other than cornice collapse.
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Great news, great route on a great crag. Ondras 9c looks pretty uninspiring albeit on an amazing crag. This looks like what 9c should look like.
It's not a competition, they're both incredible bits of climbing in their own ways, by two amazing climbers. That said, this made me chuckle:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CDkQy3iDhD_/?igshid=1bsx2okgyxgfp
If I had to put money on it, I reckon Bibliography will be repeated before Silence is.
The climbing on silence looks amazing, more interesting than this I guess, but the line is not great in the flesh, In fact it’s about the least inspiring one in the cave.
Megos route looks a much more impressive “non “ line.
Ah okay, yeah I get what you mean. I was thinking about the movement, which on Silence just looks mind boggling whilst Bibliography is much more conventional.
No doubt. I'd raise the bet to Ondra repeats Bibliographie before Megos does Silence!
Yeah, 100%. In fact I'd raise you and bet Megos will never do Silence.
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Yeah, 100%. In fact I'd raise you and bet Megos will never do Silence.
Most likely, although I would love to see him up there grappling with that crack!
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Yeah, 100%. In fact I'd raise you and bet Megos will never do Silence.
Most likely, although I would love to see him up there grappling with that crack!
I heard silence has been partially ruined due to someone trying to make a replica/mould of it.
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Seriously? Ruined as in left crap on the rock whilst making a mold, or damaged the rock?
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I've heard that rumour too but I think its bollocks borne of people spaffing on Insta. See this post.
https://www.reddit.com/r/climbing/comments/i1p2ds/the_silence_was_not_chipped_or_glued/
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I've heard that rumour too but I think its bollocks borne of people spaffing on Insta. See this post.
https://www.reddit.com/r/climbing/comments/i1p2ds/the_silence_was_not_chipped_or_glued/
If its true that its sorted then fair enough. Not read all the comments to confirm if its fixed and back to original form.
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If its true that its sorted then fair enough. Not read all the comments to confirm if its fixed and back to original form.
Basically it sounds like if Seb had given it a brush there wouldn't have been an issue :lol:
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If its true that its sorted then fair enough. Not read all the comments to confirm if its fixed and back to original form.
Basically it sounds like if Seb had given it a brush there wouldn't have been an issue :lol:
Ive just asked henning ‘keeper of the cave’ what the score is for definitive answer.
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Sounds like Pavel Blazek (Ondra's manager?) owned up to it but actually all a bit of a non-issue.
Next level stuff though creating an exact replica of the holds etc. Like those Japanese climbers who made resin copies of the holds on Burden of Dreams. Sounds like something for the thread about the future of climbing; why bother getting on a plane and messing about with conditions when you could rent a warehouse and build an exact replica?
Disclaimer - I can think of many reasons, but still...
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Dunno, I spent 3 weeks in july there the year after moving from SA, and it was pretty hot (almost too hot) most days. Guess the sectors I was on didn't overhang by 30 degrees though.
I lived there the summers of 91 and 92 and thought conditions were great on the Berlin/ biography sectors. Cascade more of a winter venue, perfect in the sun other than cornice collapse.
Nah it's all good - just have to get up earlier for Cascade
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Ive just asked henning ‘keeper of the cave’ what the score is for definitive answer.
Chris says hi!!
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I heard silence has been partially ruined due to someone trying to make a replica/mould of it.
Just another similarity between Silence and Overlapping Wall at Broadbottom Quarry.
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I heard silence has been partially ruined due to someone trying to make a replica/mould of it.
Just another similarity between Silence and Overlapping Wall at Broadbottom Quarry.
:lol:
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So how does something like this work in terms of project etiquette?
I gather Ethan Pringle bolted it. When he realised it wasn't going to happen, did he bequeath it personally to Alex? Or was it an open project, but the other (two or three) contenders politely stayed away when they got wind that Alex was working it?
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I’d love to celebrate this achievement but I’ve no idea if Megos eats healthily enough. Does anyone have the details on that? ;)
Have you not heard the one about him being carried away from a comp ?(not a joke)
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Have you not heard the one about him being carried away from a comp ?(not a joke)
Really? Tell me more.
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Have you not heard the one about him being carried away from a comp ?(not a joke)
Really? Tell me more.
Just heard he got carried away from a comp cos he had so little energy.
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No doubt. I'd raise the bet to Ondra repeats Bibliographie before Megos does Silence!
Yeah, 100%. In fact I'd raise you and bet Megos will never do Silence.
I'm hoping for some controversy. Ondra climbs Bibliography and downgrades it to 9b/+. Megos goes to Norway in a huff, climbs Silence, and downgrades it to HVS
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The conditions been pretty horrendous in Céüse in July, one or two evenings with dry heat and a bit wind when the conditions were good. For the last visit Mr. Megos showed up the first day with reasonable conditions in two weeks, fell at the very last bit. Then we left, so I do not know how the conditions were.
Céüse starts to be really polished. This summer I repeated some routes I did five years ago and they are definitely harder now (fact! because i do not age...). Some of the 7a-7bs in Demi-Lune are most surely harder than classic 7a-7bs on Escales in Verdon.
Several good climbers (hi Chris+) have said that even Biographie is polished, especially the start, and a lot harder now than ten years ago.
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Things like Medecine Douce and Ananada (easiest warmups in Cascade) were slippery in mid 90s, must be glassy now.
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Things like Medecine Douce and Ananada (easiest warmups in Cascade) were slippery in mid 90s, must be glassy now.
Cascade was the worst offender in terms of polish when I was there a few years ago. That said, I didn't think any of it was too bad, there are so many good routes that for every polished one there are 5+ that are fine. Its not Raven Tor quite yet.
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True enough, could be memory, one of the first limestone crag I visited. Since then I've climbed at many that are a lot worse!
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More evidence of the pros using ebikes to good effect to save their energy for the business end...
https://www.climbing.com/news/interview-alex-megos-discusses-the-first-ascent-of-bibliography-9c-5-15d/
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Christ. He's dead to me. First e-bike free ascent awaits.
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E-bike rental business, shuttling people from Malham parking to the catwalk. £15 each way. Both sight see-ers and the redpointers who just need that je ne sais quoi to get the tick.
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I would have thought given the current economic climate there would be a few out of work peasants who could offer piggybacks or even offer a sedan chair service.
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Never bolts his own projects and uses electric to get up to the crag. Lazy cunt.
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More evidence of the pros using ebikes to good effect to save their energy for the business end...
https://www.climbing.com/news/interview-alex-megos-discusses-the-first-ascent-of-bibliography-9c-5-15d/
I've been wondering about this. Haven't been to Ceuse yet but might be in a few weeks if Catalonia stays off the cards due to the big V.
Me and the girly have e-mtbs (f**k off, they're so much fun) and I was wondering if The Approach could be cheated with them... seems like it's on the cards. Has to be fair game if the Megos is willing to stoop to it... ;D
Once heard Randall compliment Barrows somewhere about how he saves energy when working a route by getting his belayer to drag him up the crag instead of pulling... Cora's current tactic is to get me to drag her up to the crag so this has to be a better solution :w00t:
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Time to invest in an electric golf caddy to get your clobber to the crag without expending too much energy :D
https://youtu.be/ELSbwzr6J8g
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Time to invest in an electric golf caddy to get your clobber to the crag without expending too much energy :D
https://youtu.be/ELSbwzr6J8g
Ooh now we're talking!
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Now this is on the money 😂
https://mysandhopper.com/
https://youtu.be/b_Hnyk_Traw
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The Approach
All joking aside, I've never understood the terror the walk in elicits in people. Its a beautiful walk on a winding track through a forest and is a piece of piss once you've stashed a rope up there. If you're halfway fit it won't be an issue.
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Is there still an issue with pikeys (or the local equivalent) going around in the evenings and nicking hidden kit?
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Never heard anything like that. Its not hard to stash your kit somewhere it won't be found in any case.
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The Approach
All joking aside, I've never understood the terror the walk in elicits in people. Its a beautiful walk on a winding track through a forest and is a piece of piss once you've stashed a rope up there. If you're halfway fit it won't be an issue.
It is weird how much it gets talked about. I know someone there at the moment who reckons she's knackered by it and she did battle cat in 3 goes. Cora has some kind of exercise induced asthma though so anything that'll spare a bit of panting is good beta tbh. :)
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pikeys
C'mon Chris, I know you wouldn't use other ethnic slurs, this one is not ok either.
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pikeys
C'mon Chris, I know you wouldn't use other ethnic slurs, this one is not ok either.
But cheating cunts is fine :-\
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pikeys
C'mon Chris, I know you wouldn't use other ethnic slurs, this one is not ok either.
I sat for about 5 minutes trying to think of a term to use that wasn't offensive, what should I use other than macca's suggestion? It was a known group who were doing it.
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Thieves? No, I don't like the word Macca quoted either, but I hadn't seen that post.
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On this side of the Atlantic, they call themselves travelers.
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Going back to saving effort on the walk-in, I've heard that due to cuts in BMC staff salaries, Caff is renting out his chopper at a good rate. You heard it here first.
Going back to gypsies and stealing - who could have guessed that being marginalised would taint your relationship with those who marginalise you? We let a gypsy family use a field for their horses and treated them with respect once when I was a kid, despite them having a terrible reputation in our area, and guess what? In return we got nothing but respect, help and honesty back. Weird, huh?
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Going back to saving effort on the walk-in, I've heard that due to cuts in BMC staff salaries, Caff is renting out his chopper at a good rate. You heard it here first.
Going back to gypsies and stealing - who could have guessed that being marginalised would taint your relationship with those who marginalise you? We let a gypsy family use a field for their horses and treated them with respect once when I was a kid, despite them having a terrible reputation in our area, and guess what? In return we got nothing but respect, help and honesty back. Weird, huh?
I would've guessed the responsibility of the marginalisation and the quality of relationship lies somewhere in the middle.
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I heard that Dave Graham used a quad bike to get up there when he did Biographie :2thumbsup:
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9a flash today. Not 100% up to speed on these things but don’t think that many have done this. Him and Ondra?
https://www.instagram.com/tv/CFIbe3YqEfL/?igshid=158jy8aprduj2
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I do not know of anyone else who have 9a flashes/onsights. How many climbers have onsighted or flashed 8c+ except Megos (a handful), Ondra (twenty or so), Puigblanque(1), Midtbø(1) and Usobiaga(1)?
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@JWI: Sebastian Halenke (http://fanatic-climbing.com/sebastian-halenke-imperial-au-kronthal-sebastian-halenke-strikes-in-kronthal/ (http://fanatic-climbing.com/sebastian-halenke-imperial-au-kronthal-sebastian-halenke-strikes-in-kronthal/).
Domen Skofic did Mind Control and Nordic Flower, but both have been downgraded. Also happened with Klemen Becan and his Siempre se puede hacer menos FA in Chulilla.
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yeah, I did know that I did not know about all of them. Mitdbø did not do Cosi... when it was actually 8c+, according to a prominent member of the French downgrading mafia... etc... Best to do more than twenty of them....
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Nice bit of beef between Bock and Megos:
https://youtu.be/WjSq1oFNsRk (https://youtu.be/WjSq1oFNsRk)
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I think Bock has a point here. Look at that topo. Some asshole has even done a route that starts up the classic Burn for you.
Out of order. He should flex those bolts for sure.
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Ye, Fair enough squeezing them in at shitty quarries like my dad does but not in classic areas/ next to classic routes. Bock said if someone even did a different exit to one of his he’d remove it.
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As Barrows said on the other thread, without knowing the crag and where exactly the holds on each route are it's hard to judge whether the new line is squeezed in or not. It doesn't appear that bad on the topo.
Regardless of who is right and who is wrong in this instance I think it's great that they have this sort of conversation over there. It's so easy to ruin good quality lines by forcing new routes in just to the side. If only people were more discerning in the UK - especially when it comes to squeezing in more 6s at existing crags.
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9a flash today. Not 100% up to speed on these things but don’t think that many have done this. Him and Ondra?
https://www.instagram.com/tv/CFIbe3YqEfL/?igshid=158jy8aprduj2
Missed this at the time, good effort. I loved the old video of Tomas Mrazek on it, rocking some serious white trous.
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That was a classic video, so much roof, blew my mind at the time.
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I think Bock has a point here. Look at that topo. Some asshole has even done a route that starts up the classic Burn for you.
Out of order. He should flex those bolts for sure.
Since no-one appears to be Franken-literate enough to get my joke, I should point out that Corona, 9a+ which starts up Burn For You and is as close to it throughout it's length as Megos' new line is.... a Markus Bock route. #needsacarrotuphisasshole
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I think Bock has a point here. Look at that topo. Some asshole has even done a route that starts up the classic Burn for you.
Out of order. He should flex those bolts for sure.
Since no-one appears to be Franken-literate enough to get my joke, I should point out that Corona, 9a+ which starts up Burn For You and is as close to it throughout it's length as Megos' new line is.... a Markus Bock route. #needsacarrotuphisasshole
Haha. I did wonder after.. One rule for the old and one for the youths.
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As long as there's vegetables up arses tho....
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I love the way the translation refers to the Franconian Jura. Brilliant.
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deleted as i posted too early and missed the reply...
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Judging by his insta stories it looks like Alex may be trying something at the La Capella sector in Siurana, I wonder whether he's putting some time into the hard stuff Bosi did over winter?
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On the trail, working his way up to Brandenberg Gate....
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Thought I’d share this YouTube of Megos doing King Capella.
https://youtu.be/5CUvvxcr1EU
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Another repeat at the La Capella sector with the second ascent of Bosi's La Furia de Jabali (https://climbing-history.org/climb/1109/la-furia-de-jabali).
https://www.instagram.com/p/CW4F7nvstKb/
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La Furia de Jabali uncut www.youtube.com/watch?v=P7WG0lUopY4 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P7WG0lUopY4)
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That looked insanely hard. I knew well had done a few FAs last year, but pretty cool to see them getting the attention of the likes of Megos :punk:
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Love the piano finger crawl move at 1:05 onwards.
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Love the piano finger crawl move at 1:05 onwards.
Not to mention chalking & shaking out on what appears to be a mono undercut around 1:30
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Long interview with Alex Megos on Actiontalk TV. Skip to the second part where they talk about downgrading of Bibliography, Will Bosi's routes in Siurana, the future of human performance on rock and the situation in Ukraine.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aBjtBF8FbWo
English subs available, among many languages.
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Alex Megos has done the first ascent of the old Sharma project "Ratstaman Vibrations" at the grade of 9b. Rat staman because it is on Face de Rat, apparently.
Here is Charles Albert and Seb Bouin trying it
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IefAza76V70
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Awesome! I bet he's playing it safe on the grade...
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He only says "in the 9b range" on his IG post:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CgrxsJ0qkKM/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
I'd take that as an approximation, but I guess it could be translated as in the 9b grade?
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I guess it could mean its most likely 9b but could be 9a+ or 9b+ if his gradeometer is off. Seb looks to find it hard in the vid!
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He only says "in the 9b range" on his IG post:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CgrxsJ0qkKM/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
I'd take that as an approximation, but I guess it could be translated as in the 9b grade?
As usual, my rôle is to distort facts posted on Instagram.
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:lol:
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NNo8Xd7bANo
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Forgot there was a Megoswad, seen on his FB page
The full ticklist of my three week trip to Margalef:
- The Full Journey 9b (FA)
- Chan Chan Bastards 9a+/b (FA)
- Pink Patatas 9a+ (FA)
- Red Ram 9a+ (3rd go)
- Gancho Perfecto 9a/+
- The Journey P1 9a
- Patatas Pantera 9a (FA)
- Perfecto Passat 9a
- Pink Pantera 8c+
- Patatas el villano 8c+ (FA)
- Patatas Satan 8c+ (FA)
- Off the Tractor 8c
- Patan Satan 8c
- Patan el villano 8c (Flash)
https://www.facebook.com/AlexanderMegosSportler
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Incredible ticklist! I wonder who's been chipping Cafe Columbia :spank: Seems like some wierd shenanigans went down on that wall