UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: Doylo on January 28, 2012, 10:51:17 am
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At the end of last summer i had to stop pulling down because both elbows were playing up. They were tender on the outside in the middle almost right on the bone. I know about the weighted broomhandle exercises for golfers and tennis elbow but i don't i have either of these according to what i've read. Basically can anyone recommend any exercises to fend of injury in this area? Anyone had experience of this? Sorry to start another elbow thread :)
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hmmm...
that's a bit vague Chris, but I've fixed a few (many) elbow problems doing lots of triceps exercises, starting with many reps and little weight and going to full power with big weight in a few weeks.
hope this helps.
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Eccentric Wrist Flexion ("reverse Tyler twist") (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d3_wKQGpNko#ws)
this fixed it for me (sonds more or less the same). I've used the green theraband flexbar.
Daily, 2-3 series lasting until discomfort (between 10 and 20 reps).
can be also be done with a barbell of course, same as finger curls doing just the excentric phase.
plus ice massage, daily as well.
I don't know if you already knew about these...
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Falling Downs Russian bell lifts seem to have really helped my outer elbow probs.. Along with other basic shoulder stuff with dumbells.
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outside in the middle almost right on the bone
that sounds like tennis elbow to me but I'm not quite sure where you mean. I'd also recommend the exercise with the red dildo and press-ups, shoulder press, tricep dips, rotator cuff stuff, etc etc
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outside in the middle almost right on the bone
that sounds like tennis elbow to me but I'm not quite sure where you mean. I'd also recommend the exercise with the red dildo and press-ups, shoulder press, tricep dips, rotator cuff stuff, etc etc
Ye could be but i was under the impression TE was more on the outer areas i.e. not smack bang in the middle. Cheer all, will get on it with some of those . It's ok at the moment but can feel a bit of tenderness starting so want to do all i can to keep it at bay. :great:
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stop wanking horses for a job
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this in the middle shit is worrying dude...
esp as the knowledge / experience you have and on this thread on here is soo good...
if you dont heal fast.. I'm afraid it's the old... stop climbing / training and just tick over with general fitness type of affair.
worst case... it's arthritis.. could just be a floating piece of cartilage.... time for GCW and then a proper relevant specialist.
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Don't quite get where you mean Doyle? The bit where you have a lump of muscle, or further round where the real boney bit is? If the former, does it particularly hurt when releasig a deep lock and compressing? If so sounds like what I've had.issues with, fixed by rotator cuff theraband work
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Yes the former , sorry i'm shit at explaining where it is. I could feel it with locks and compression. Like i said its ok now but can feel it a bit again whereas i couldn't 3 weeks ago. I'm gonna do some exercises and continue to monitor it and pray to the heavens!
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http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,18757.0.html (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,18757.0.html)
the picture in this thread shows the classic location of tennis elbow. this what you've got, perhaps. the advice stills remain the same.
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i was under the impression TE was more on the outer areas i.e. not smack bang in the middle.
BURSITIS?
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Maybe bursitis! I dont think its tennis elbow, its the pointy bit (nowhere near the area on the pic) and hurts when i knock it when its bad. Pretty gutted but i'm going to knock my deadhang regime on the head and just boulder for now and hope it doesnt get worse
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Do you still deadhang with straight arms? and if so were you deadhanging in the summer when it started?
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its the pointy bit (nowhere near the area on the pic) and hurts when i knock it when its bad.
I've had this. I think it's the first thing that Sausage is referring to here (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16540.msg291361.html#msg291361).
Mine only went away with total rest (I was ill in bed for weeks and didn't climb at all). As soon as I've felt any signs of it since I've stretched my triceps as much as possible and this seems to make it go away.
It's probably pretty obvious that I'm not a doctor though, of course!
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Here's a couple of elbow solutions that have been effective for me over the years...
Straight R arm(locked straight - key), by side, palm out, thumbs pointing behind>using other hand, clasp R hand>interlocked>keeping R arm locked, rotate it anti-clockwise>hold 5 seconds - feel resistance. 5 reps. Hits the tri-ceps. Repeat for L arm but rotate clockwise.
Following climbing plunge whole arm/hand into sink/bath of cold/iced water, keeping submerged for as long as you are able to stand. Dry arms & repeat 3-4 times. This really closes the pain gate.
+ weighted broom handle stuff.
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From your description it sounds more like brachiaradialis than tennis or golfers. I have this chronically in both arms and it took me a long time to work it out, though good physios are much more aware of it now. Dave Mac has some info about it on his blogs and that's how I initially self diagnosed after trying different things for years.
At present I'm having acupuncture (tendon scraping) and doing rehab and strengthening whilst being temporarily barred from climbing. strong massage on the trigger points helps a lot, but there is no quick fix - especially if it's been many years in the making.
Nina Leonfellner is an excellent climbing physio in Bristol, especially good with tendinitis and nerve issues if you are ever this way.
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sounds like exactly what i had!
streches and press ups i did, i had it quiet bad as like a noob i didnt stop climbing but the pressups seemed to work for me!
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Do you still deadhang with straight arms? and if so were you deadhanging in the summer when it started?
I've never done dedahangs with a straight arm, no i wasn't deadhaning when it first emerged.
Cheers all, so much advice to sift through.