UKBouldering.com

the shizzle => chuffing => Topic started by: jwi on April 27, 2015, 01:16:07 pm

Title: How to get down from long & steep single pitch routes
Post by: jwi on April 27, 2015, 01:16:07 pm: The route is 80m long and overhanging all the way. 2 m from the anchor, 10 m above the last draw the climbers fall, with just a 100m rope, and extra rope and an extra GriGri the climber can still lower to the ground.

Note: This is a much more complex way of belaying than normal. Using the technique described here is likely to get you killed in more ways that I can imagine. The risk of making an error in any of the many steps is great. Use at your own risk.

(http://ukbouldering.com/wiki/images/8/8a/Eng_fig1.png)

(http://ukbouldering.com/wiki/images/5/5d/Eng_fig2.png)

(http://ukbouldering.com/wiki/images/d/d9/Eng_fig3.png)

(http://ukbouldering.com/wiki/images/a/a1/Eng_fig4.png)

(http://ukbouldering.com/wiki/images/9/90/Eng_fig5.png)

(http://ukbouldering.com/wiki/images/2/29/Eng_fig6.png)
Title: Re: How to get down from long & steep single pitch routes
Post by: abarro81 on April 27, 2015, 01:23:44 pm: Probably better just not to fall off at 78m. I'd be grateful of being dropped just to end the emotional trauma!
Title: Re: How to get down from long & steep single pitch routes
Post by: Lopez on April 27, 2015, 01:25:26 pm: Where did you say it was that 80m long single pitch fully overhanging route with no intermediate belays? :shrug:
Title: Re: How to get down from long & steep single pitch routes
Post by: jwi on April 27, 2015, 01:27:51 pm: A friend fell of close to the top of Féérie pour une autre fois every saturday and sunday for a month. 2 attempts per day. How he persisted I'd never know.
Title: Re: How to get down from long & steep single pitch routes
Post by: Lopez on April 27, 2015, 01:45:46 pm: I had to google that. There seems to be a belay at 35m but it's the full 70m for the 8a tick. I just got flash pumped reading that...
Title: Re: How to get down from long & steep single pitch routes
Post by: jwi on April 27, 2015, 02:22:05 pm: Yeah, and falling off from the crux it's very hard to get back to the rock.
Title: Re: How to get down from long & steep single pitch routes
Post by: ghisino on April 27, 2015, 10:23:42 pm: cool diagrams.

never done it but someone mentioned it to me and it's more or less what i had figured out.

btw it should work with any combination of two ropes as long as the sum of their lenghts is twice the route's, and you do your maths right in order to switch ropes at the correct draw (that's the really tricky point i guess, if your "total rope lenght" is not overabundant?)