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the shizzle => chuffing => Topic started by: scottygillery on January 29, 2015, 07:18:37 pm

Title: Survey: How hard have you route climbed in 2014?
Post by: scottygillery on January 29, 2015, 07:18:37 pm: Same as Tomtoms survey but for routes.

Thanks all.
Title: Re: Survey: How hard have you route climbed in 2014?
Post by: scottygillery on January 29, 2015, 07:22:39 pm: (http://www.climbnovascotia.ca/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/route-conversion.gif)
Title: Re: Survey: How hard have you route climbed in 2014?
Post by: Fiend on January 29, 2015, 07:46:21 pm: F6c+ onsight. But it was a Pedriza slab 6c+ so equivalent too F7d elsewhere.

(I really need the "how many E3s and E4s did you climb" poll as I severely punted at any non-trad)
Title: Survey: How hard have you route climbed in 2014?
Post by: tomtom on January 29, 2015, 07:48:30 pm: Quote from: scottygillery on January 29, 2015, 07:18:37 pm
Same as Tomtoms survey but for routes.

Thanks all.

Cool! Possibly daft question (but best to clarify) is this onsight, redpoint etc..?

Btw - I'm the 5.. Pretty sure I solo'd a VDiff by accident last year ;)
Title: Re: Survey: How hard have you route climbed in 2014?
Post by: kingholmesy on January 29, 2015, 08:11:39 pm: I'll vote once you clarify whether this is onsight or RP. Given you're asking for sports grades I'd suggest the latter.

Best of all would be if there could be one poll combining hardest boulder, o/s sport, RP sport and o/s trad so that the correlations could be tracked.

For me it would be 7A+, 7a+, 7c and E5.

Maybe someone with better IT skills than me can create such a poll come the end of 2015?
Title: Re: Survey: How hard have you route climbed in 2014?
Post by: scottygillery on January 29, 2015, 08:15:41 pm: Hardest.

Method is irrelevant just the grade. I expect for most regular sport climbers this would be a RP. But perhaps different for tradders or people who only sport climb on hols.

Responding to KingH

7C, 7b+, 8a+ and E3 (i think) - look where I'm under performing
Title: Re: Survey: How hard have you route climbed in 2014?
Post by: slackline on January 29, 2015, 08:53:11 pm: Quote from: kingholmesy on January 29, 2015, 08:11:39 pm
Maybe someone with better IT skills than me can create such a poll come the end of 2015?

If you've the inclination then use Google Forms (http://www.google.co.uk/forms/about/), its pretty straight-forward and what I used for the benchmarking survey (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,20900.0.html) (PDF (https://www.dropbox.com/s/l4w0ca2012z5z9p/ukbenchmarking.pdf?dl=0)).

I have neither the time nor inclination to do the leg work I'm afraid.
Title: Re: Survey: How hard have you route climbed in 2014?
Post by: Muenchener on January 29, 2015, 09:31:10 pm: Bugger. Still in the bottom 20%

Selection bias.
Title: Re: Survey: How hard have you route climbed in 2014?
Post by: kelvin on January 29, 2015, 09:43:22 pm: Shocked I've not finished bottom of either of these polls :boxing:

Feels a bit unfair when your best grade is an onsight but that's my fault for not bothering to redpoint anything in my whole life ever.
Title: Re: Survey: How hard have you route climbed in 2014?
Post by: dr_botnik on January 29, 2015, 09:48:43 pm: I am the 6b. Well shit. I think it would split 6C, 6b, 6b, E2 so it's pretty obvious where my weak point was last year.
Title: Re: Survey: How hard have you route climbed in 2014?
Post by: Fultonius on January 29, 2015, 10:22:13 pm: Bit of a funny year for me. I've only ticked Fr7b, but got close to another Fr8a project.

I've only actually tried 2 routes harder than Fr7b this year and I nearly flashed one at Fr7b+.

Plenty of Fr7a onsights, including one trad route!

Strange year...
Title: Re: Survey: How hard have you route climbed in 2014?
Post by: Sasquatch on January 29, 2015, 10:27:31 pm: 8B, 8a, 7b, E? no trad at all this year....

I think my strength(motivations) weaknesses show pretty well.
Title: Re: Survey: How hard have you route climbed in 2014?
Post by: dave on January 29, 2015, 10:32:50 pm: What does alpine PD score me on this scale?
Title: Re: Survey: How hard have you route climbed in 2014?
Post by: kelvin on January 29, 2015, 10:36:38 pm: Quote from: dave on January 29, 2015, 10:32:50 pm
What does alpine PD score me on this scale?

Depends if it was solo onsight with blunt crampons...
Title: Re: Survey: How hard have you route climbed in 2014?
Post by: tomtom on January 29, 2015, 10:54:31 pm: Quote from: dave on January 29, 2015, 10:32:50 pm
What does alpine PD score me on this scale?

V3
Title: Re: Survey: How hard have you route climbed in 2014?
Post by: csl on January 29, 2015, 11:08:09 pm: Quote from: kingholmesy on January 29, 2015, 08:11:39 pm
I'll vote once you clarify whether this is onsight or RP. Given you're asking for sports grades I'd suggest the latter.

Best of all would be if there could be one poll combining hardest boulder, o/s sport, RP sport and o/s trad so that the correlations could be tracked.

For me it would be 7A+, 7a+, 7c and E5.

Maybe someone with better IT skills than me can create such a poll come the end of 2015?

Doesn't take long on google forms.. http://goo.gl/forms/C8F4He2f7R (http://goo.gl/forms/C8F4He2f7R)
Title: Re: Survey: How hard have you route climbed in 2014?
Post by: jwi on January 30, 2015, 08:49:05 am: If it is one click a way it's too far...
Title: Re: Survey: How hard have you route climbed in 2014?
Post by: jwi on January 30, 2015, 08:52:35 am: BTW, why does this poll only go to 9a? I'm asking for a friend, obviously...
Title: Re: Survey: How hard have you route climbed in 2014?
Post by: kelvin on January 30, 2015, 08:53:19 am: Quote from: csl on January 29, 2015, 11:08:09 pm

Doesn't take long on google forms.. http://goo.gl/forms/C8F4He2f7R (http://goo.gl/forms/C8F4He2f7R)
Title: Re: Survey: How hard have you route climbed in 2014?
Post by: Rocksteady on January 30, 2015, 09:19:47 am: 7A, 6b(? can't remember trying many onsights this year except for warm ups), 7b, No trad.

Was happy enough with the 7A and 7b which equal my best ever (from 2013). Until I found out I am way below average!

I'm going to train hard to achieve mediocrity in 2015!
Title: Re: Survey: How hard have you route climbed in 2014?
Post by: slackline on January 30, 2015, 09:31:32 am: Quote from: Rocksteady on January 30, 2015, 09:19:47 am
Until I found out I am way below average!

I'm going to train hard to achieve mediocrity in 2015!

50% of people are below the median ;)

By training hard to achieve mediocrity you may simply contribute to raising the level of mediocrity....and then still be below the median (and mean which is often very close to the median in normally distributed data).
Title: Re: Survey: How hard have you route climbed in 2014?
Post by: nai on January 30, 2015, 09:46:53 am: Quote from: scottygillery on January 29, 2015, 07:22:39 pm
(http://www.climbnovascotia.ca/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/route-conversion.gif)

Isn't the French ->trad -> tech grades on this conversion a bit skewiff?
Title: Re: Survey: How hard have you route climbed in 2014?
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 30, 2015, 09:49:05 am: I did a few E6s, do I really get to tick 8a/8a+?
Title: Re: Survey: How hard have you route climbed in 2014?
Post by: jwi on January 30, 2015, 09:49:48 am: Strawberries E5 anyone?
Title: Re: Survey: How hard have you route climbed in 2014?
Post by: slackline on January 30, 2015, 09:52:10 am: Quote from: nai on January 30, 2015, 09:46:53 am
Isn't the French ->trad -> tech grades on this conversion a bit skewiff?

(http://media.rockfax.com/2011/06/trad_grade_bold-600x814.jpg)
(http://media.rockfax.com/2011/06/trad_grade_safe-600x814.jpg)
Title: Re: Survey: How hard have you route climbed in 2014?
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 30, 2015, 09:57:31 am: That's better, but I'm not ticking a french grade for UK (very) trad routes on principle.
Title: Re: Survey: How hard have you route climbed in 2014?
Post by: SA Chris on January 30, 2015, 10:17:40 am: Hmm, climbed routes on rock twice last year, VS tops!
Title: Re: Survey: How hard have you route climbed in 2014?
Post by: Three Nine on January 30, 2015, 11:05:29 am: 7C+, 8a+, 7c+, and I walked up the stairs a lot so Mod
Title: Re: Survey: How hard have you route climbed in 2014?
Post by: kelvin on January 30, 2015, 11:19:12 am: We need a trad one... seems I might not be near the bottom of that one. :blink:
Title: Re: Survey: How hard have you route climbed in 2014?
Post by: slackline on January 30, 2015, 11:21:23 am: :wall:

Simply posting the grades you've climbed is pointless since it does not in anyway aid aggregating them across the submissions to give any sort of overview.

This is why surveys are being posted and linked, because no one is going to bother sitting down and collating the grades from individual posts.
Title: Re: Survey: How hard have you route climbed in 2014?
Post by: AJM on January 30, 2015, 12:17:46 pm: Quote from: kelvin on January 30, 2015, 11:19:12 am
We need a trad one... seems I might not be near the bottom of that one. :blink:

I'm just glad this one is here so that I feel less sub-average (6C+ looks depressingly far down the bouldering responses, 8a is still performing respectably on the route grades).
Title: Re: Survey: How hard have you route climbed in 2014?
Post by: Will Hunt on January 30, 2015, 12:39:41 pm: Quote from: csl on January 29, 2015, 11:08:09 pm
Quote from: kingholmesy on January 29, 2015, 08:11:39 pm
I'll vote once you clarify whether this is onsight or RP. Given you're asking for sports grades I'd suggest the latter.

Best of all would be if there could be one poll combining hardest boulder, o/s sport, RP sport and o/s trad so that the correlations could be tracked.

For me it would be 7A+, 7a+, 7c and E5.

Maybe someone with better IT skills than me can create such a poll come the end of 2015?

Doesn't take long on google forms.. http://goo.gl/forms/C8F4He2f7R (http://goo.gl/forms/C8F4He2f7R)

Can you change the title to 2014, Conor?
Title: Re: Survey: How hard have you route climbed in 2014?
Post by: kelvin on January 30, 2015, 12:40:31 pm: Quote from: AJM on January 30, 2015, 12:17:46 pm

I'm just glad this one is here so that I feel less sub-average (6C+ looks depressingly far down the bouldering responses, 8a is still performing respectably on the route grades).

I honestly thought you bouldered much harder than that mate - mid 7s or so. Just a quiet year on the bouldering front I guess?
Title: Re: Survey: How hard have you route climbed in 2014?
Post by: Will Hunt on January 30, 2015, 12:42:43 pm: 7C, 7b (OS), 7a (RP), E5

Scotty, presumably you are lying about your trad grade to protect your identity, or else you are talking about onsights only?
Title: Re: Survey: How hard have you route climbed in 2014?
Post by: kelvin on January 30, 2015, 12:44:54 pm: Dunno what went wrong there!
Title: Re: Survey: How hard have you route climbed in 2014?
Post by: AJM on January 30, 2015, 01:02:18 pm: Quote from: kelvin on January 30, 2015, 12:40:31 pm
I honestly thought you bouldered much harder than that mate - mid 7s or so. Just a quiet year on the bouldering front I guess?

You're too kind!
I didn't really do any bouldering last year. But in other years my best efforts have been a ~15 move power endurance V7, a few ~V6/7A things of "normal" boulder problem length at widely spaced intervals, and a 35-move 7B/+ (I can't take seriously the concept of giving something that long a bouldering grade, to me it's 7c+).
Title: Re: Survey: How hard have you route climbed in 2014?
Post by: Wood FT on January 30, 2015, 01:20:56 pm: Quote from: Will Hunt on January 30, 2015, 12:42:43 pm
7C, 7b (OS), 7a (RP), E5

Scotty, presumably you are lying about your trad grade to protect your identity, or else you are talking about onsights only?

quiet pike!
Title: Re: Survey: How hard have you route climbed in 2014?
Post by: csl on January 30, 2015, 03:37:05 pm: Quote from: Will Hunt on January 30, 2015, 12:39:41 pm
Can you change the title to 2014, Conor?

No, i'm too busy putting pictures of cats at the top. Soz.
Title: Re: Survey: How hard have you route climbed in 2014?
Post by: csl on January 30, 2015, 03:41:25 pm: We've had 16 responses so far. Including an E8 onsighter apparently.
Title: Re: Survey: How hard have you route climbed in 2014?
Post by: Sasquatch on January 30, 2015, 04:14:37 pm: Quote from: Will Hunt on January 30, 2015, 12:42:43 pm
7C, 7b (OS), 7a (RP), E5

You may want to work on your RPing ;)