UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: tomtom on January 25, 2015, 06:07:56 pm
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Hello,
A semi repeat of a survey I ran 18-24 months ago..
Its quite simple - as the question says - what is the hardest grade (Font grades please) problem you have climbed in 2014 - on rock... Sorry for those who got some big ticks after new year - that'll have to wait until next year!
Conversion chart below for those who may need it...
TT
(https://matthaslam.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/bouldering-grades.jpg)
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7A. I've been outside three time :(
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Can count on one hand the times I bouldered outside last year :-(
7B
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Ha! You replied as I was typing, and basically wrote the same thing...
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Yeah, but I'm fatter than you.
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I'm not sure. The hardest thing I did was 'my' problem at Pex Hill. This is an eliminate on Pisa Wall just to the right of the tree, basically left hand small diagonal crimp, right hand slopey dish, pull on and right hand up to very small crimp, left hand break.
Somewhere in the 7's but no idea how far north of 7.
Best flash 6a in Northumberland.
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The hardest bouldering I did was on routes, probably 7C+/8A ish ballpark?? Does that count? Otherwise 7B+
I think the only bouldering I've done this year was a damp easter week in font?
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Nope. Boulderization problemones only Nik..
There is a minor difference from last year - as in this is rock only (last year was a bit more ambiguous).
Duma - did you vote? There was only 1 7B when you posted and that was me!!
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Sorry no, on phone and tapatalk doesn't show me polls
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What does West Side get ?
:worms:
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What does West Side get ?
Seiged.
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Nope. Boulderization problemones only Nik..
There is a minor difference from last year - as in this is rock only (last year was a bit more ambiguous).
Duma - did you vote? There was only 1 7B when you posted and that was me!!
have now
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What does West Side get ?
Seiged.
:D 7B+... I'm waiting until it gets upgraded in the next guide iteration ;)
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Been outside 3 times this year!
Living in London my excuse
All climbing done on the warmest summer days
Why no English grades?
Peak - about eng 5a/b v0/1- it was sweltering
The day after Brownstones - did 6a (v?)eng problem I couldn't do from my youth. (20 years later in the bag!) same heatwave conditions.
Lakes - kentmere 5b eng - scared the shit out of me and took a few sessions to work out the move!
I know indoor grades are all over but indoor climbing progress well recently. Done a few v4 and v5.
Why don't you open the survey out to include indoors as well?
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There's usually a meaningful consensus with outdoor problems.
Personally I wouldn't set much store by indoor problems as grading can be wildly out and they don't remain up for very long.
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What does West Side get ?
:worms:
Stepladdered.
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E4 7a.
Font 6C for me - Mini Power at Shaftoe. The only other significant boulder problem I did was Physical Graffiti F6B/+ at Dumby. I did a lot of trad instead.
I've already beaten that this month alone.
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There's usually a meaningful consensus with outdoor problems.
Personally I wouldn't set much store by indoor problems as grading can be wildly out and they don't remain up for very long.
True, I agree with everything you say.
But a tad elitist to not allow for both?
Especially if anything decent is a 2-3hour drive away?
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6A+ in Font itself was the hardest I guess. Quite a few 6A and V3s too.
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But a tad elitist to not allow for both?
Especially if anything decent is a 2-3hour drive away?
We just had a new set at the wall. Flashed some V3s, not far off a V4 or two but only just ticked a V0 that's crazily undergraded - outdoors the grades can settle to what they actually are but who cares about getting this V0 regraded? It'll be gone in another 4 weeks...
I live a 100 miles from any boulders, it's like dry county round here but I wouldn't view it as elitist, it just makes sense to go off problems that'll be around for years and years.
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But a tad elitist to not allow for both?
It's not elitist, it's just sensible.
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Why don't you open the survey out to include indoors as well?
Start another poll. Then you have a second data set and both are clearly defined on the criteria which differ slightly. They can always be combined afterwards.
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But a tad elitist to not allow for both?
It's not elitist, it's just sensible.
Ok fair enough? If I had rock on the door step, could join in.
Will skip the survey.
Happy climbing everyone!
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Why don't you open the survey out to include indoors as well?
Start another poll. Then you have a second data set and both are clearly defined on the criteria which differ slightly. They can always be combined afterwards.
I wouldn't know how to set one up? :-\
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Slackline is your man for that, ask him.
I see no reason not to have two polls tbh, so long as rock and wood/plastic are separate.
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The 'new poll' option is just next to the 'new topic' option at top right of screen when in a forum area
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Read my second post re why rock only... It just confused things by allowing plastic grades last time..
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Median is 7C so far. Strong!
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Crikey.... statistical proof that I'm sub-normal. Having only bouldered outside a handful of times seems a pitiful excuse.... must do better (albeit, during the short window between it being dry and warm enough for my fingers not to go numb, and routes being tenable). First though, a commiseration scotch (it is Burns Night after-all).
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7C+. My best year so far, in routes as well, making me hope that i'm well positioned to follow manu marques' steps (font local who started climbing @20 and became quite strong in his 30's. Now well in his 40's i guess, the man boulders 8B and fluently highballs terrifying 8A's. No signs of getting weaker. A personal hero).
Oddly I spent less time projecting and trying stuff near my limit, compared to previous years, but I felt a real mindset change. Much less "redpoint anxiety" and doubts, more testosterone and focus, a better sense of opportunity (almost didn't miss a "sending window" and made fewer mistakes about which problem/route to try on which day)
I did not feel a similar improvement in strength or raw skills.
I'm not surprised of the honorable performance of this forum as a whole, as the quality of climbing related discussions show a remarkable understanding of performance related subtleties, climbing boots, stepladders, kneepads and bigwall support teams.
Actually that's one of the reasons it's one of my recurrent internet visits, after the "ultimate internet" and non-climbing related vid/pic stuff (real gold mines!)
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7C+.. But it was a dyno and not at all reflective of what was a dire, injury- and demotivation-ridden (non-)climbing year for me.
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Why don't you open the survey out to include indoors as well?
Start another poll. Then you have a second data set and both are clearly defined on the criteria which differ slightly. They can always be combined afterwards.
I wouldn't know how to set one up? :-\
The forum is based on Simple Machines Forum (listed and linked at the bottom of every UKB page). There is a wiki user manual (http://wiki.simplemachines.org/smf/Category:As_a_regular_user) which has this entry on "Starting A New Poll" (http://wiki.simplemachines.org/smf/Posting#Starting_a_New_Poll).
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Didn't do a single problem last year with a concensus grade, all the new stuff I did I've graded my standard "I can do it, it must be 6bish"
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Some of those "6Bs" seemed hard for 6B...
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I ticked 6B+??
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I ticked 6B+??
:D your new problem, your grade, your reporting... It's all down to you Chris ;)
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I voted 8a for the N-th repeat of the roof, later my sponsors reminded me that I had done the extension in February so it's probably 8a+. But I'm not voting again.
Shame plastic doesn't count. ;)
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I voted 8a for the N-th repeat of the roof, later my sponsors reminded me that I had done the extension in February so it's probably 8a+. But I'm not voting again.
Shame plastic doesn't count. ;)
I'm sure wood counts, though
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;D
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I ticked 6B+??
:D your new problem, your grade, your reporting... It's all down to you Chris ;)
If I wasn't so selfish about my project there I would have written the rest of them up to get some concensus.
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only four days on rock last year :(
two days at b'bag Nth and Sth in the summer, nothing harder than 7a
one day at caley, secret seventh - 7b+
one day on bleau rock, did some circuit problems
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Did 2 hours of out door bouldering this year. Have probably done harder moves on mountain routes than on (outdoor) boulders this year...
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BUMP - we had over 300 people complete this last time... c'mon y'all..
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Seems like not bouldering is the new bouldering
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BUMP - we had over 300 people compete last time... c'mon y'all..
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I ticked 6B+??
:D your new problem, your grade, your reporting... It's all down to you Chris ;)
Looks like Chris has upgraded his problem to 8C. I'd have done the same.
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If you can find it you can downgrade it! :)
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Three 8B+?
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There were two last time around...... Good to see they've upped their grade ;)
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=22541.0
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I've gone down a grade since then!
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Total Members Voted: 285
BUMP - we had over 300 people complete this last time... c'mon y'all..
Some Sloperesque massaging of the figures going on there.....
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Total Members Voted: 285
BUMP - we had over 300 people complete this last time... c'mon y'all..
Some Sloperesque massaging of the figures going on there.....
Grades always go up under a Tory government, vote Conservative for your first 8a flash
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Was wondering about that myself, turnip and highrepute I'd say. Don't know who the third could be? Someone who doesn't post much like variable or shauna, or someone amusing themselves?
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Total Members Voted: 285
BUMP - we had over 300 people complete this last time... c'mon y'all..
Some Sloperesque massaging of the figures going on there.....
If by that you mean guessing a suitable figure to back up your point then being proved incorrect later - spot on ;)
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I've gone down a grade since then!
Me too...
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Was wondering about that myself, turnip and highrepute I'd say.
highrepute - ukb's most secretive 8B+ crusher?
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Was wondering about that myself, turnip and highrepute I'd say. Don't know who the third could be? Someone who doesn't post much like variable or shauna, or someone amusing themselves?
turnips BO2014 doesn't have any 8B+? Of course he may not care about the grades...
I was guessing Carlisle Slapper too
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scottygillery?
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V8+
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scottygillery?
A1
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Was wondering about that myself, turnip and highrepute I'd say. Don't know who the third could be? Someone who doesn't post much like variable or shauna, or someone amusing themselves?
turnips BO2014 doesn't have any 8B+? Of course he may not care about the grades...
Granted, its an amazing problem, but it is also a limestone boulder problem and not the best problem at the crag!
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Crikey.... statistical proof that I'm sub-normal. Having only bouldered outside a handful of times seems a pitiful excuse.... must do better (albeit, during the short window between it being dry and warm enough for my fingers not to go numb, and routes being tenable). First though, a commiseration scotch (it is Burns Night after-all).
Feel better:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Selection_bias (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Selection_bias)
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Was wondering about that myself, turnip and highrepute I'd say. Don't know who the third could be? Someone who doesn't post much like variable or shauna, or someone amusing themselves?
turnips BO2014 doesn't have any 8B+? Of course he may not care about the grades...
Granted, its an amazing problem, but it is also a limestone boulder problem
Blasphemy!!
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I reckon the results could be bias towards the higher grades. People are more likely to vote if they have climbed a high grade.
Maybe there should be a number of moves limit as well. I feel bad for voting 7C+ now as it was a long link in the cave!
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7A+
Who voted 8C??
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Simpson
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Was wondering about that myself, turnip and highrepute I'd say. Don't know who the third could be? Someone who doesn't post much like variable or shauna, or someone amusing themselves?
I'd be interested to know who you think i am?
ScottyGillery hasn't voted, he told me he'd only climbed 5B this year and didn't want to be grouped with 5A climbers. And routes are more his thing anyway.
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James Jacobs at a guess.
I reckon barrows voted 8C thinking it was one of the F8cs he'd kneebarred to death in the Cave.
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High repute I thought you were dom bridgewood, if not I've seen a vid of you doing striker at burb nth, presuming it's you? Anyone who can do that can climb at least 8B
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Who voted 8C??
It was Gaskins, he posts on here as dense loner.
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High repute I thought you were dom bridgewood, if not I've seen a vid of you doing striker at burb nth, presuming it's you? Anyone who can do that can climb at least 8B
I'm neither Dom nor my lanky friend climbing striker; Jacob's progress has been slow I think that's the hardest thing he's bouldered. :boxing:
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Sorry I was told it was you, rest assured I'm going to speak to the person that told me. I said the person on Striker was tall and I got ridiculed!
The thick plottens
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Median is 7C so far. Strong!
Closer to 7B+ now. Hope it keeps filling in. This really does show how high performing UKB is, and is also a good reminder of how far outside the "norm" of climbers we sit.
Anyone know how many weekly unique posters UKB averages?
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Not been on for while. Due to a busted back I only got out 3 times late last season, pretty much when heat meant the season was over. One 7B/7B+ resulted. Due to my lack of form I expected this was soft but numerous failed attempts by similar sized much fitter, stronger mate suggested maybe not.
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Look who crawled out of the woodwork..... Hope the back is OK?
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Sorry I was told it was you, rest assured I'm going to speak to the person that told me. I said the person on Striker was tall and I got ridiculed!
The thick plottens
I've not been too good at keeping the NOC list up to date but it's still going. If anybody has any doubts as to an identity I may be able to help.
Might make a spreadsheet of it and add columns for known associates, home addresses, and exploitable weaknesses.
:ninja:
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7B, which has brought the mode back to thereabouts. I'm proud to bring down the statistics as always.
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Can anyone who keeps track list which Brits (or other known UKB users - Nacho?) did an 8C last year.
Offwidth said some under-the-radar type from Nottingham (Toby?) had done one in Rocklands but was unlikely to have voted
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There's the usual up and down with the flat an + grades again. Does this mean people either work harder to get the the next letter grade, or that people prefer to grade things without a +?
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Random variation, not a pattern.
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Offwidth said some under-the-radar type from Nottingham (Toby?) had done one in Rocklands but was unlikely to have voted
Someone did an 8B+ or 8C in Rocklands? That would be amazing, I can only think of 2 8C's in Rocklands (Monkey Wedding and Livin' Large)
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Its quite possible that people may be telling porkies with their vote...but thats part of the process...
Personally I think its amazing that there are c.20 people operating at 8A and above - as Sasq said thats testament to the (bouldering ;) ) calibre of the people on this board....
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thats testament to the (bouldering ;) ) calibre of the people on this board....
You'll have my resignation on your desk in the morning
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7A so I'm bringing the median down :guilty:
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I'm intruiged by the jump from 8A to 8A+, myself. Is this people having 8A as an aim then not progressing? or is 8A+ really that much harder?
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I'm intruiged by the jump from 8A to 8A+, myself. Is this people having 8A as an aim then not progressing? or is 8A+ really that much harder?
Its the 95% mark... only 5% climb harder...
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I'm intruiged by the jump from 8A to 8A+, myself. Is this people having 8A as an aim then not progressing? or is 8A+ really that much harder?
I'd guess the first. In the US you see it at v10 :)
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I'm intruiged by the jump from 8A to 8A+, myself. Is this people having 8A as an aim then not progressing? or is 8A+ really that much harder?
Its the 95% mark... only 5% climb harder...
Not as much choice of problems at 8A+
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I was shit last year and dropped down a grade from the previous 4. Lost the first 3-4 months after needing a knee arthroscopy but it's no excuse really!
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Did the keel as my first 7c in november
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tomtom, please stop registering multiple accounts to try to justify your grade inflation. That's just blatant.
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I'd have gone to 7C+ to make it worthwhile ;)
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I thought it was only 7C+ if you missed out the jug? So that really would be taking the piss. :-*
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Did the keel as my first 7c in november
Good effort. I think the Keel is everyone's first 7c, if you get my drift.
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Did the keel as my first 7c in november
Good effort. I think the Keel is everyone's first 7c, if you get my drift.
Yeah I know, been trying a few others as well. Jess's roof feels about the same, slopey traverse and dwr left feel a bit harder.
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Did the keel as my first 7c in november
Good effort. I think the Keel is everyone's first 7c, if you get my drift.
I was hoping mine would be WSS but it's how the chips fell ;)