UKBouldering.com
places to visit => uk and eire => Topic started by: Scouse D on April 16, 2008, 10:41:08 am
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Trying a problem the other day with SF and cofe. Looking at crag Left of nosferatu on the big boulders below is a wall on shallow pocketed rock starting of a nice LH pinch to a slopey top via a small RH pocket.
Tried it years ago, and seem to remember that Mick Adams had done it. Felt 7b+ ish and none of us did it.It's a very good problem.
Also there is a good,steep roof about 6c ish, just right of the previous problem, and a project wall on shit rock which looks a mess and has been extensively 'repaired'.
Any knowledge anyone?
Is this prob on your list bonjoy?
SF also repeated 'Gib's Rib' 7a. Brilliant problem. ask him for info.
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I think it might be one of two new thing Iain Farrar did last year at Burb S. He's coming round my house at some point to fill in details on these and other bits. What kind of 'repairs'?
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a project wall on shit rock which looks a mess and has been extensively 'repaired'.
it looked like someone had let a hand grenade off in a crunchie factory.
the rib thing is ace, albeit hard, inevitably easier for the tall and a bit scrittley. I propose the name 'Scrittle and Large'. Must be 7b+ ish.
got a nice pic of Gib Rib, will post at some point.
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some sort of resin on the footholds, already very polished. the wall basically has lots of scars on it from boken flakes and are maybe now stable.
Last time i tried the other probs was about 3 years ago, and Mick had done the wall off the pinch. We (myself,Dave and Cofe) did the roof but think it had been done before.
It's odd that they've not been reported as it's a great area.
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Farrar doesn't know one end of a computer from a fisherman's pencil case. Nobody would have heard of stuff like Brass Monkey's if I hadn't reported them for him
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I showed him a keyboard once, he thought is was a beverage
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:lol:
I only met him recently. A thoroughly nice bloke.
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photo of gib's rib:
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d175/beardownproductions/John/climbing/GibRib_JC.jpg?t=1209334823)
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...
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SF also repeated 'Gib's Rib' 7a. Brilliant problem. ask him for info.
Is that Font 7a? Great-looking problem.
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...
?
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Weirdly the line of Gib's Rib is listed on the UKC new routes database thing as an HVS 5b. Are there hold (another arete?) further right that you don't use on GR?
28a All Our Oars are Out HVS 5b Rhuari Bennett 21/Apr/96
Climb directly up the right hand arête of Zigzag. (8m)
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When i was doing the guide I presumed that this meant the upper bit, sprt of laybacking the arete and offwidth. At least, deciding that allowed me to ignore the claim.
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SF also repeated 'Gib's Rib' 7a. Brilliant problem. ask him for info.
Is that Font 7a? Great-looking problem.
It's probably just on the cusp of 7a, but warrants the grade IMO because it's pretty committing. As you can probably tell from the terror in Scouse's eyes.
I think Grimer's right about the route claim. There's no way it's 5b. Unless Ruari Bennett is related to Paul Pepperday.
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It's probably just on the cusp of 7a
on the cusp of 7a and...what else..?
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6c+ etc?
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thats better.