UKBouldering.com
places to visit => uk and eire => Topic started by: Luke Owens on January 07, 2015, 05:05:40 pm
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I've never climbed on grit before, finally going to head out that way this weekend.
Where would be the best first place to visit? Stanage?
What problems should I do/get on? I climb up to 7A-ish elsewhere.
I don't know anything about the grit, but "Not to be taken away" looks awesome.
Any videos to get me psyched would be appreciated too. Cheers!
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Plantation is as good a spot as anywhere to start :)
Prepare to lose some skin and spend time on easy stuff learning to trust your feet on fuck all.. I'd just work through some classic 6's and see how you feel!
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Plantation is as good a spot as anywhere to start :)
Prepare to lose some skin and spend time on easy stuff learning to trust your feet on fuck all.. I'd just work through some classic 6's and see how you feel!
Cheers TomTom, what are the classics? I think my mate has a guide. I literally only know of NTBTA in the 6's...
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After the day you had at Ysgo - you should be fine on the grit :) I've lost just as much skin at the seaside if I'm honest. Plantation is pretty cool but I always enjoy Cratcliffe more on a quiet day. No idea what's there in the 7s but I always find plenty to fall off in the 6s.
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http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/public/weather/forecast/gcqzd69kf#?tab=fiveDay&fcTime=1420848000 (http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/public/weather/forecast/gcqzd69kf#?tab=fiveDay&fcTime=1420848000)
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what do the metoffice know? It's going to be fine
http://www.metcheck.com/UK/dayforecast.asp?day=3&zipcode=Sheffield&locationID=56892&lat=53.4&lon=-1.5&findtype= (http://www.metcheck.com/UK/dayforecast.asp?day=3&zipcode=Sheffield&locationID=56892&lat=53.4&lon=-1.5&findtype=)
(http://www.idnetters.co.uk/forums/Smileys/custom/lala.gif)
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you've checked here for inspiration?
http://peakbouldering.info/areas/1-eastern-grit/crags/1-stanage-plantation#.VK2HWyusXAk (http://peakbouldering.info/areas/1-eastern-grit/crags/1-stanage-plantation#.VK2HWyusXAk)
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Worth adding that if you park at Burbage Bridge, Burbage North, South, West and Higgar are all right in front of you. A lifetime's supply of problems in a mile radius from the car.
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The 7A bold star ticklists on UKC are really good. Not done a bold star problem that I haven't found excellent. There's good problems everywhere, it's more important to pick the right crag based on the weather. (moved here end of August, still learning crag selection)
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Go to Stanage and Burbage and start by just climbing anything that looks good. Burbage North has some good problems in the 7Aish range - The Alliance, Electrical Storm (OK, I would take 7B for this, but that just may have been my sequence), Attitude Inspector and another of the arete problems (can't remember the day).
A Cratcliffe / Robin Hoods Stride combination is also a fun day out.
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Burbage North has some good problems in the 7Aish range - The Alliance, Electrical Storm (OK, I would take 7B for this, but that just may have been my sequence), Attitude Inspector and another of the arete problems (can't remember the day).
The Alliance (very good but very soft 7A), Electrical Storm (7B imo) and Attitude Inspector (soft 7A and not exactly classic) are all both at Burbage South?
Luke, go where the weather is best! In general, assuming everywhere was dry, it was a lovely cold crisp day etc. like evryone else I'd say:
- Stanage Plantation
- Burbage
- RHS/Cratcliffe
- Newstones/Baldstone/Ramshaw/Roaches
All full of multiple classics, plenty to go at.
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Burbage North has some good problems in the 7Aish range - The Alliance, Electrical Storm (OK, I would take 7B for this, but that just may have been my sequence), Attitude Inspector and another of the arete problems
These are all at Burbage South, which would not be my first choice of crag this weekend as it will be at best be very green/ more likely wet.
Plantation or Roaches for a first timer, given the forecast.
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Worth noting that Burbage South Edge isn't a good place to climb by yourself (you don't say whether you'll have company) and that it is also slow to dry and given the forecast for the next few days is unlikely to be dry. BBC now reporting Sat PM to be ok so there's hope (but then today was forecast to be clear and it's not). Fingers crossed.
You can find that if the Eastern Edges are wet or clagged in it can sometimes be better out West and Southern areas are often a good bet, lost count of the amount of times I've sat at the Plantation under grey skies looking out at white fluffy clouds down toward RHS etc. Be flexible.
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Just go to Almscliff.
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:lol: may be a little breezy there this weekend! http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/public/weather/forecast/gcwf9t1nv#?tab=fiveDay&fcTime=1420848000 (http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/public/weather/forecast/gcwf9t1nv#?tab=fiveDay&fcTime=1420848000)
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Cheers guys, I am flexible but I'm not sure if a mate has a guide so it'll probably be Stanage.
Thanks for all the weather forecast links... Haha. Plenty of you seem to be weather pessimists, I'd never go out climbing if I trusted the weather forecast...!
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The stuff from Hampers Hang around to the Cowper Stone could be better than the plantation if the wind is from the NW
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Always peakbouldering.info for all the problems....
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The stuff from Hampers Hang around to the Cowper Stone could be better than the plantation if the wind is from the NW
Only problem is it's shit and you'll think grit vastly overrated.
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Burbage North has some good problems in the 7Aish range - The Alliance, Electrical Storm (OK, I would take 7B for this, but that just may have been my sequence), Attitude Inspector and another of the arete problems (can't remember the day).
The Alliance (very good but very soft 7A), Electrical Storm (7B imo) and Attitude Inspector (soft 7A and not exactly classic) are all both at Burbage South?
Luke, go where the weather is best! In general, assuming everywhere was dry, it was a lovely cold crisp day etc. like evryone else I'd say:
- Stanage Plantation
- Burbage
- RHS/Cratcliffe
- Newstones/Baldstone/Ramshaw/Roaches
All full of multiple classics, plenty to go at.
Sorry, I meant Burbage South! In my defence, the last time I visited was nearly 5 years ago, and I didn't have the guide to hand.